'/ 



/ 

V ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP V 



ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP 
LINE 




PACIFIC "EMPRESS" STEAMSHIPS 

EMPRESS OF ASIA — EMPRESS OF RUSSIA (15,000 Tons Each) 

EMPRESS OF INDIA - EMPRESS OF JAPAN (6,000 Tons Each) 
MONTEACLE (6,153 Tons) 

THE hhobt Ef*rr VI\ 1> NM( >o r 1 1 E>4X 

KOUTE A(!H()SS THE PACIFIifc 

Tir^KlTTCh Issued via Vancouver to all principal places 
* *v/***^ *^ in CANADA, UNITED STATES, EUROPE, 

AND 

AROUM3-TI [E-\VO«LD 
The Canadian Pacific Steamships effect a saving of six to seven days in the 
Transpacific voyage by taking the northerly course and following the great 
circle track near the Aleutian Islands. 



THE FASTEST TIME ACROSS THE PACIFIC IS MADE BY THE 

ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS OF THE CANADIAN PACIFIC 

FORTNIGHTLY SAILINGS 3ETWEEN THE 

ORIENT AND VANCOUVER. 



Detailed Information will be given on application to any 
Canadian Pacific Railway Agent. 



A HE ARTS OF J^f^lX 

;=ARE SPREAD BEFORE YOUR EYES AT 

SAMURAI SHQKAI 

* * * HONCHO-DORI YOKOHAMA;** 




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BE SEEN 



SILVERWARE IN ORIGI- 
NAL DESIGNS 



ART OBJECTS OF RARE 
BEAUTY AND DESIGN 
MAGNIFICENT SILKS 
AND EMBROIDERIES 



HANDSOME KIMONOS IN 
EVERY STYLE 



UNIQUE ANCIENT BRAS- 
SES AND BRONZES 



OLD PIECES OF BEAUTI- 
FUL LACQUER 



KAKEMONOS OF FAMOUS 
MASTERS 



RARE OLD PRINTS AND 
PAINTINGS 

ATTRACTIVE SCREENS 
AND SCROLLS 



ALL AT ONE PRICE TO 
ALL 



INSPECTION IS COMIAL- 
LY INVITED 



IVORIES OF EXQUISITE 
WORKMANSHIP 



LY INVITED 



TelephoneNo. 915. Cable Address "SAMURAI, Yokohama" 



Oj&* v 1l 



r. 



*>"* 



A 



HANDBOOK 



TO 



JAPAN 




~yyu^j~^c^^y J £^ll_™^' { z!^^2 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 

IN 

JAPAN 

(INCLUDING FORMOSA) 



BY 

BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN, f.r.g.s. 

EMERITUS PROFESSOR OF JAPANESE AND PHILOLOGY IN THE IMPERIAL UNIVERSITY OF TOKYO 

AND 

W. B. MASON 

CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND LATE OF THE 
IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS 



With Thirty Maps and Plans and Numerous Illustrations 



NINTH EDITION, REVISED THROUGHOUT 



CHAELES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
597-599 Fifth Avenue, New York 

YOKOHAMAl r7T?TTV r, X ir » T OTJ T T „ mn ^ (HONGKONG 

Shanghai j KELLY & WALSH, Limited ( Singapoef 
19 13 

{ALL EIGHTS RESERVED) 



0{OJ 



o£T 



GIFT 

ESTATE OF 

VICTOR S. CLARK 

ccpT 3, 1946 

w ubbIby « coboM* 



OUR GOOD FRIEND 

J. o. 

This edition is gratefully dedicated 

in remembrance of pleasant days spent together 

on many of the journeys here described 

and 

in acknowledgment of the months of 

generous assistance he has given to the work. 



B. H. C. 
1913 - W.B.M. 



PREFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION. 



This edition of the Handbook has been revised through- 
out, — a revision amounting to the rewriting of several routes 
and the incorporation of numerous changes all over the 
country, necessitated by the extension of railways, electric 
trams, and other improvements. At the same time, it has 
been borne in mind that picturesque " Old Japan/' so far as 
it still survives, is what the majority of intelligent persons 
come out to see. The total result, it is hoped, will supply 
travellers with a vade-mecum which, while retaining all need- 
ful information concerning temples, art treasures, legends, 
flower festivals, and the other charming peculiarities of this 
fascinating land, is also thoroughly practical and up to date. 

Japan's new possessions on the Asiatic mainland, 
differing widely as they do in language, customs, etc., from 
Japan proper, do not fall within the scope of this work. 

The authors' thanks are due to the Eev. Walter Weston, 
Mr. H. E. Daunt, Mr. E. L. Gordon, Mr. Horace Nutter, Mr. 
J. Orange, the Rev. H.B. Schwartz, and many other corres- 
pondents for valuable information courteously supplied ; 
and to Mr. Werner Vieth for assistance of various kinds. 
Mr. Edward Beart has once more given his competent 
services in reading the proof-sheets. 

Suggestions and corrections will be much appreciated. 

Yokohama, 1913, 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Page, 

1. General 1 

2. Steam Communication 2 

3. Custom-House 3 

4. Public Holidays....... 3 

5. Guides 3 

6. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. 4 

7. Currency 4 

8. Weights and Measures 4 

9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses 6 

10. Climate ; Dress ; Time of 
Visit 7 

11. Provisions 9 

12. Means of Locomotion ; 
Luggage 10 

13. Where to Go and What to 
See 11 

14. Purchase and Shipment of 
Goods 12 



Page. 

15. Shooting 12 

16. Fishing 13 

17. Miscellaneous Hints 14 

18. Language 16 

19. The Shinto Religion 35 

20. Japanese Buddhism 39 

21. List of Gods and God- 
desses 43 

22. Art 56 

23. Outline of Japanese His- 
tory 61 

24. Chronological Tables 63 

25. Celebrated Personages 70 

26. Population of the Chief 

Cities 87 

27. Christian Missions 88 

28. Outline Tours 89 

Glossary of Japanese Words ... 92 



KOUTES. 



Section I. — Eastern Japan. 



Route. Page 

1. Yokohama 99 

2. Excursions from Yokohama 101 

3. From Yokohama to Tokyo. 109 

4. Tokyo Ill 

5. Excursions from Tdkyo ... 137 

6. Miyanoshita and Hakone... 146 

7. The Peninsula of Izu 155 

8. Fuji and Neighbourhood ... 160 

9. Shoji and the Rapids of the 
Fujikawa 168 

10. Chichibu and the Temple 

of Mitsumine 170 

11. Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa 
Railway; Mydgi-san 172 

12. Karuizawa and Asamayama 175 

13. Ikao Kusatsu, and Neigh- 
bourhood 180 



Route. Page. 

14. The Shimizu-goe and 
Mikuni-toge 188 

15. The Oyama-Maebashi Rail- 
way « 190 

16. Nikk5 and Chuzenji 191 

17. From Yumoto to Ikao over 
the Konsei-toge 209 

18. From Nikkd to Ikao via 
Ashio and the Valley of the 
Watarase-gawa 210 

19. From Wakamatsu to Nikko 
by the Valley of the Kinu- 
gawa 212 

20. Shiobara and Nasu 213 

21. The Provinces of Shimosa, 
Kazusa, and Boshu 215 

22. The East Coast Railway ... 221 



Contents. 



Section II. — Central Japan. 



Koutb. Page. 

23. TheT5kaido 227 

24. Steamer Voyage from Yoko- 
hama to Kobe 242 

25. The Karuizawa - Naoetsu- 
Niigata-Railway ; Island of 
Sado 243 

26. The Mountains on the N.W. 
Boundary of Shinshu and 
Echigo 250 

27. From Shinonoito Shiojiri... 252 

28. The Central Railway from 
Nagoya to Shiojiri 254 

29. Mountains of Hida and 
Etchu 257 

30. Ways to and from Kofu ... 273 

31. Valley of the Hayakawa ... 284 

32. Mountains between the 
Fujikawa and the Tenryu- 
gawa 286 



Route. Page. 

33. Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa 289 

34. The Shrines of Ise 291 

35. K5be and Neighbourhood. . . 302 

36. Osaka and Neighbourhood 307 

37. Kydto and Neighbourhood 313 

38. Lake Biwa 344 

39. Nara and Neighbourhood... 349 

40. Through Yamato to Koya- 
san and Wakayama in 
Kishu 357 

41. The Mountains of Yamato 371 

42. Through Kumano to Ise ... 372 

43. Minor Itineraries in Kishu 382 

44. From Kyoto to Maizuru and fT^ 
Ama-no-Hashidate 383 

45. From Lake Biwa to Ama- 
no-Hashidate 386 

46. The West Coast from 
Tsuruga to Naoetsu 388 



Section III. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea. 



47. The Inland Sea and the 
Chief Places on and near 
the Northern Shore 395 

48. The Island of Awaji 408 

49. From Kobe to the Ikuno 
Mines and Kinosaki 412 



50. Matsue, Temple of Izumo, 
and the OM Islands 413 

51. The West Coast from 
Matsue to Tottori and on 

to Wadayama 418 



Section IV. — The Island of Shikoku. 



52. North-Eastern Shikoku 423 

53. North- Western Shikoku ... 430 

54. Valley of the Yoshino-gawa 434 



55. Western Shikoku from 
Matsuyama to Uwajima . . . 436 

56. Ways to and from Kochi ... 437 



Section V. — Kyushu and Outlying Islands. 



57. Nagasaki and Neighbour- 
hood 445 

58. Unzen and the Shimabara 
Peninsula 448 

59. The Island of Hirado 450 

60. The Kyushu Railway from 
Nagasaki to Moji 451 

61. Yabakei and the Rapids of 
the Chikugo-gawa 456 



62. Hiko-san and on to Naka- 
tsu 457 

63. The Kyushu Railway from 
Tosu to Kagoshima 458 

64. Volcanoes near Kagoshima 464 

65. Through Satsuma and 
Amakusa to Nagasaki 466 

66. From Kumamoto to Aso-san 
and Beppu 467 



Contents. 



XI 



Koute. Page. Eoute. Page. 

67. From Kumamoto to Nobe- 1 68. The Goto Islands and Tsu- 
oka and Oita. S.E. Kyushu 472 | shima 474 

Section VI. — Northern Japan. 



69. The Northern Railway 477 

70. Wakamatsu and Bandai- 
san 485 

71. From Niigata to Waka- 
matsu 488 

72. From Niigata to Tsuru-ga- 
oka 488 

73. Matsushima 489 



74. From Fukushima to Yama- 
gata, Akita and Aomori 492 

75. From Funagata to Sakata, 
and up the North- West 
Coast to AMta 497 

76. The North-East Coast 499 

77. The Tonami Peninsula 501 



Section VII. — The Island of Yezo (Hokkaido); the 
Kurile Islands and Saghallen. 



78. Hakodate and Neighbour- 
hood 505 

79. Excursions from Hakodate 506 

80. From Hakodate to Otaru, 
Sapporo, and Muroran 510 



81. From Otaru to Kushiro and 
Abashiri 514 

82. The South-East Coast and 
the Southern Kuriles 516 

83. Saghalien 518 



Section VIII. — The Izu and Bonin Islands ; Luchu 
and Formosa. 



84. The Izu and Bonin Islands 521 

85. The Luchu Islands 525 



Formosa 526 



INDEX 533 



MAPS AOT) PLANS. 



1. Japan in pocket of cover. 

2. Key to Sectional Maps. to face title page. 

3. Distribution of Eainfall to face p. 7 

4. Shinto Temple of Izumo „ p. 37 

5. Buddhist Temple of Ikegami „ p. 41 

6. Eastern Japan „ p. 97 

7. Neighbourhood of Yokohama , „ r 

8. City of Tokyd „ p. Ill 

9. Temples and Tombs of Shiba on p. 118 

10. Neighbourhood of T6ky5 to face p. 137 

11. Fuji and the Hakone District „ p. 147 

12. Neighbourhood of Karuizawa „ p. 175 

13. 3kao and Kusatsu , „ p. 181 

14. Nikko „ p. 191 

15. Neighbourhood of Nikk5 „ p. 201 

16. Central Japan „ p. 225 

17. Kofu „ p. 273 

18. Templeof Ise on p. 298 

19. Kobe and Osaka to face p. 303 

20. Kyoto „ p. 313 

21. Western Japan and the Inland Sea „ p. 393 

22. Miyajima on p. 405 

23. Kyushu to face p. 443 

24. Neighbourhood of Nagasaki „ p. 445 

25. Kumamoto Castle on p. 460 

26. Northern Japan , to face p. 475 

27. Matsushima „ p. 489 

28. South- Western Yezo „ p. 505 

29. North-Eastern Yezo „ p. 515 

30. Formosa „ p. 527 



Hand-Book for Travellers 



IN 



JAPAN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Page 

1. General 1 

2. Steam Communication 2 

3. Custom-House , 3 

4. Public Holidays 3 

5. Guides 3 

6. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. 4 

7. Currency 4 

8. Weights and Measures 4 

9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses. 6 

10. Climate ; Dress ; Time of 
Yisit 7 

11. Provisions .. 9 

12. Means of Locomotion ; 
Luggage 10 

13. Where to Go and What to 
See 11 

14. Purchase and Shipment of 
Goods 12 



Page 

15. Shooting 12 

16. Fishing 13 

17. Miscellaneous Hints 14 

18. Language 16 

19. The Shinto Eeligion 35 

20. Japanese Buddhism 39 

21. List of Gods 43 

22. Art 56 

23. Outline of Japanese His- 
tory 61 

24. Chronological Tables 63 

25. Celebrated Personages 70 

26. Population 87 

27. Christian Missions 88 

28. Outline Tours 89 

29. Glossary of Japanese 
Words 92 



1. — General. 

Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer 
world, was burst open by the American expedition in 1853-4 under the 
command of Commodore Perry. Making a virtue of necessity, her rulers 
soon determined to Europeanise the country, as the best means of pre- 
serving its independence. Ships were bought, foreign naval and military 
instructors engaged, feudalism replaced by a centralised autocracy, 
education reorganised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts, 
telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners, 
European amusements adopted, Buddhism disestablished, Christianity, 
if not encouraged, at least no longer persecuted. In short, in every 
sphere of activity, the old order gave way to the new. The most drastic 
changes took place between 1871 and 1887. The war with China in 
1894-5 again marked an epoch. Not only did its successful issue, 'give 



2 Introduction: — General. Steam Communication. 

an extraordinary impetus to trade and industry, but trie prestige then 
acquired brought Japan into the comity of nations as a power to be 
counted with. This was further emphasized by the war with Russia in 
1904-5. Another point has become clear of late years,— Europeanisation, 
after all, is not to carry everything before it. Along many lines the 
people retain their own manners and ways of thought ; they even, to a 
great extent, retain their own dress. Japan, though transformed, still 
rests on her ancient foundations. 

It is impossible, within the limits of this Introduction, to enter into 
those details of race, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which, 
combined with the influence exercised more recently by Europe and 
America, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires 
to travel intelligently' — to do more than merely wander from hotel to 
hotel — may be referred to a small octavo volume entitled Things Japanese, 
where, under the heading "Books on Japan," he will find a descriptive 
list of the best literature of the subject. Of art and religion alone a short 
account seemed indispensable, as art objects of many kinds, and temples 
both Buddhist and Shinto, rank amongst Japan's most characteristic 
attractions. An outline of history and lists of gods and celebrated 
personages have been added, in order to assist the traveller to thread his 
way through the maze of proper names with which he will be confronted. 
In Japan, more than in any Western country, it is necessary to take some 
trouble in order to master such preliminary information ; for whereas 
England, France, Italy, Germany, and the rest, all resemble each other 
in their main features, because all have alike grown up in a culture 
fundamentally identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, therefore, 
who should essay to travel without having learnt a word concerning 
Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous. 
In any case, a supply of books of some sort is necessary to help to while 
away the frequent rainy days. 

The elaborate series of maps in course of publication for many years 
past at the Imperial Geological Office, may be obtained of Messrs. Kelly 
and Walsh, at Yokohama. 

2. — Steam Communication. 

Japan may be reached by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers 
from Vancouver in 13 days ; by the Pacific Mail, and the Toy 3 Risen 
Kwaisha's steamers from San Francisco in about 18 days via Honolulu ; 
by the Nippon Yitsen Kwaisha (Japan Mail Steamship Co.), the Osaka 
Shosen Kwaisha, and the Northern Pacific Company's steamers from Seattle 
and Tacoma, in about 16 days ; or else from Europe through the Suez Canal 
by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London or Brindisi, 
by the Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the Norddeutscher 
Lloyd from Bremerhaven, Southampton, or Genoa in about 40 days. 
The trans-Siberian Railway connects with steamers of the Russian 
East- Asiatic Steamship Company, and Osaka 'Shosen Kwaisha three times 
a week between Vladivostok and Tsuruga on the West Coast of Japan ; 
the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha also runs steamers between Nagasaki and 
Vladivostok via Korean ports. 

This last, the most important steamship company in the empire, runs 
steamers from Yokohama almost daily to Kobe, twice weekly to Nagasaki 
and Shanghai ; from Kobe weekly to Sakai, Tsuruga, Niigata, and 
Hakodate ; also from Kobe frequently to ports in Korea and North 
China ; from Hakodate to various ports in Yezo and to Korsakoff in 



Custom-House. Holidays. Guides. 3 

Saghalien thrice monthly in summer ; weekly from Kobe to Formosa ; 
once monthly from Yokohama to the Bonin Islands. The Company also 
has lines to the principal Chinese ports, to Australia via Manila, to 
Bombay, and to Europe. Australia is also to be reached by the Eastern 
and Australian Line. The Osaka Shosen Kwaisha runs steamers to Inland 
Sea ports and to Formosa, Korea, United States, South China, etc. Also 
twice weekly direct to Dairen (Dalny) to connect with the South 
Manchurian Bailway for Europe. The Railway Department runs steamers 
daily connecting ShimonoseM with the Fusan-Harbin route to Europe. 

Boats — known in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the 
harbours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from 
ship to shore, or vice versa, is from 15 to 25 sen per head. Steam launches 
from the steamer companies and hotels are in attendance at the larger 
places. 

3. — CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

Strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at the 
Custom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open 
up everything freely. Tobacco, liquors, cameras, bicycles, sporting gear, 
and most other articles, except ordinary personal effects, are liable to 
duty. 

4. — Public Holidays. 

The Custom-House and other public offices observe the following 
holidays (mostly of quite modern institution) : — 

Jan. 1 . ) 
„ 3. > New Year Holidays (Shogwatsu). 
„ 5. J 
Feb. 11. Accession of Jimmu Tenno in 660 B.C., and Promul- 

gation of Constitution in 1889 (Kigen-setsu). 
Mar. 20 or 21. Spring Equinox {Shunki Korei-sai). 
April 3. Death of Jimmu Tenno. 

July 30. Anniversary of death of Meiji Tennd, the late Emperor. 

August (first Monday in). Summer Bank Holiday. 

„ 31. Emperor's Birthday (Tencho-setsu). 

Sept. 23 or 24. Autumn Equinox (Shuki Korei-sai). 
Oct. 17. Harvest Thankgiving to the Deities of Ise (Shivjo-sai, 

also called Kan-name Matsuri). 
Nov. 23. Second iHarvest Festival [Shinjo-sai or Mi-name Matsuri). 

The foreign banks, besides observing Christmas (25th and 26th Dec), 
Good Friday, Easter Monday, and the Japanese official holidays, keep the 
Chinese New Year, which generally falls in February. 

5. — Guides. 

Licensed guides understanding English can be engaged at any of the 
principal hotels in Tokyo, Yokohama, Kyoto, and Kobe. The charge at 
present (1913) is as follows:— 4 yen per day per tourist, and 50 sen to 1 
yen for each additional person. In all cases, the guide's travelling and 
hotel expenses must be paid by his employer. Messrs. Cook and other 
tourist agencies also undertake to provide guides and to arrange all other 
matters for the convenience of travellers. 

A guide is almost a necessity to persons unacquainted with the 



4 Introduction : — Posts. Telegraphs. Money. 

language, unless they be expert travellers, or confine themselves to such 
places as Tokyo, Kyoto, Nikko, etc., where a certain amount of English 
is spoken. Those knowing a little Japanese may feel themselves more 
their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or " boy," also able to cook, 
and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor opinions 
of his own as to the route which it will be best to take. 

Ladies may sometimes find it convenient to hire a Japanese maid 
(generally called amah by the foreign residents). Some of them speak 
English and act more or less as guides. 

A society called Kihin Kwai (Welcome Society), having its head office 
in Tokyo, affords facilities to travellers by obtaining permits for various 
institutions and other sights. 

6. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. 

The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are organised on 
the European model. Letters and papers can be forwarded with safety 
to the different stages of a journey. The Post-Office Order and Parcel Post 
systems will also be found useful. 

In most towns of any size the Post and Telegraph Offices are com- 
bined. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost 5 sen 
per word, with a minimum charge of 25 sen, addresses being charged for. 
A telegram in Japanese of 15 Kana characters costs 20 sen, the address of 
the receiver not being charged for. The foreign residents often avail them- 
selves of this means of communication. Telephones are in general use. 

There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki, branches or agencies of 
the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, 
and China, the International Bank, and the Deutsch-Asiatische Bank. 
The facilities offered by such large Japanese banks as the Yokohama 
Specie Bank [Shokin Ginkb), the Mitsui, and the Mitsubishi, which are 
conducted jm foreign lines, may also be availed of at Tokyo and in the 
interior. 

7.— Currency. 

The values are decimal, with the yen, equivalent to about two shillings 
English, or 50 cents U.S. gold, as the unit. One yen contains 100 sen, 
one sen contains 10 rin. The currency consists of gold, which is practically 
never seen ; of silver pieces of 50 sen, 20 sen, and 10 sen ; of nickel pieces 
of 5 sen ; of copper pieces of 2 sen, 1 sen, and 5 rin, and of paper money 
worth 1 yen, 5 yen, 10 yen, and various larger sums, 

One of the first things the tourist should do is to learn the difference 
between the various notes for the values above-mentioned. He is advised 
to take with him no notes of higher denomination than 10 yen, as it is 
often difficult to get change except in the big towns. 

Except at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki, no foreign bank-notes or 
circular notes are negotiable. 

8. — Weights and Measures. 

Except on the railways, where English miles have been adopted, 
distances are reckoned by ri and cho, 36 cho going to the ri*. One ri 
is equal to 2.41 English statute miles, or, roughly speaking, to a trifle 

* Some mountain districts have a longer ri of 50 cho. 



Weights and Measures* Distances. 5 

under 2J miles. One cho is equal to 358 English feet, or T ^ of a mile. 
The cho is subdivided into 60 ken (1 ken = Q> ft. approximately), and the 
ken into 6 shaku (1 shaku = 1 ft. approximately). The subdivisions of the 
shaku follow the decimal system. Throughout this work, the distances 
are given in ri and did as veil as in miles, as visitors to Japan drop very 
soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt 
in any case, as coolies, jinrikisha-men, and others know nothing of English 
miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit of certain 
Japanese, having a superficial knowledge of English, who mistranslate the 
word ri by " mile." The following table, borrowed from Dr. N. Whitney, 
will be found useful : — 



EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE RI AND CHO IN ENGLISH MILES. 



Japanese Ri. 





1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 




Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


Miles 


1 


2.44 


24.40 


26.84 


29.28 


31.72 


34.16 


36.60 


39.04 


41.49 


43.93 


46.37 


2 


4.83 


48.81 


51.25 


53.69 


56.13 


58.57 


61.01 


63.45 65.89 


68.33 


70.77 


3 


7.32 


73.20 


75.65 


78.09 


80.53 


82.97 


85.41 


87. 85 90.29 


92.73 


95.17 


4 


9.76 


97.61 


100.05 


102.49 


104.93 


107.37 


109.81 


112.25 114.69 


117.13; 119.58 


5 


12.20 


122.01 


124.46 


126 90 


129.34 


131.78 


134.21 


136.66. 139.10 


141.54 143.98 


6 


14.64 


146.43 


148.87 


151.31 


153.75 


156.19 158.63 


161.07 163.51 


165.95 168.39 


7 


17.08 


170.83 


173.27 


175.71 


178.15 


180.59} 183.03 


1S5.47: 187.91 


190.35 192.79 


8 


19.52 


195.23 


197.67 


200.11 


202.55 


205.00; 207.44 


209.83! 212.32 


214.76 217.20 


9 


21.96 


219.64 


222.08 


224.52 


226.96 


229.40 231.84 
I 


234.28| 236.72 

1 


239.16' 241.60 


Cho 


Miles 


Cho 


Miles 


Cho 


Miles 


Cho 


Miles 


Cho 


Miles 


aw 


Miles 


1 


0.07 


7 


0.47 


13 


0.88 


19 


1.29 


25 


1.69 


31 


2.10 


2 


0.14 


8 


0.54 


14 


0.95 


20 


1.36 


26 


1.76 


32 


2.17 


3 


0.20 


9 


0.61 


15 


1.02 


21 


1.42 


27 


1.83 


33 


2.24 


4 


0.27 


10 


0.63 


16 


1.08 


22 


1.49 


23 


1.90 


34 


2.30 


5 


0.34 


11 


0.75 


17 


1.15 


23 


1.56 


29 


1.97 


35 


2.37 


6 


0.41 


12 


0.81 

1 


18 


1.22 


24 


1.63 


30 


2.03 


36 


2.44 



Long Measure {Kane). 10 bu — 1 sun (often translated " inch," but = 
1.19 inch of English measure); 10 sun = l shaku (nearly 1 foot English, 
actually 11.93 inches) ; 6 shaku = 1 ken ; 10 shaku = 1 jo. 

Cloth Measure (Kujira). 10 6u = l sun; 10 sun = l shaku, or 11.91 
inches English ; 10 shaku — 1 jo. Note that the same Japanese names 
represent standards about J longer than those in the previous paragraph. 

Land Measure ( Tsubo). The unit is the tsubo, nearly equivalent to 4 
square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsubo. 

1 cho = 2 J acres, and 1 ri (square) = 6 sq. miles, approximately. 

Measure of Capacity. 10 go = 1 sho, which contains about 108J cubic 
inches, and is a little larger than 1 J quart ; 10 sho = 1 to, nearly" half a 
bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons; 10*^0 = 1 koku, which is a fraction less 
than 5 English bushels. 

Weights, The kin is about 1J lb. avoirdupois; 1 lb. avoir. = about 
120 momme. The kwan is equal to 1,000 momme (6^ kin or a little over 
8J lbs.). 



6 Introductions : — Inns. Travelling Expenses. 

9. — Inns; Travelling Expenses. 

The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best 
accessible information, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name 
of a house specially worthy of mention. What is termed hatago at a 
Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single 
charge is usually made. This varies according to the style and standing 
of the establishment, and ranges at present from 1 yen to 3 yen per head. 
Scanty as the entertainment may often appear to one fresh from the 
innumerable luxuries of a comfortable European hotel, it should be 
remembered that such things as fine lacquer and porcelain utensils, 
painted screens, and silk quilts, to say nothing of numerous well-dressed 
attendants, are expensive items to mine host, and are charged for 
accordingly. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to 
the meals supplied is considered an extra. There is no charge for firing, 
lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content with 
what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is 
usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or else in pay- 
ing one's account just before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai, 
or "tea-money." The latter course is recommended. With Japanese 
travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the 
amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the 
quality of the accommodation. Generally they are very liberal. The foreign 
tourist stands on a somewhat different footing, and there are seldom 
gradations of rank to be considered in his case. As a fair and practical 
solution of a vexed question, those who travel a la japonaise and who are 
charged in accordance with the native scale, may be recommended to make 
the amount of their chadai vary from 50 sen to 2 yen per night, according 
to the style of the establishment. If two or more persons are travelling 
together, the chadai is increased, say, to one-half more for two, and double 
for three persons. In some localities, especially at bathing resorts, there 
is a fixed rate for the accommodation of foreigners, — 1J yen or 2 yen per 
night for room and bedding only, any food that may be ordered being 
charged for separately. Many such places, which have come under 
European influence, have abolished the chadai system while raising their 
rates. It is then usual to give a small gratuity to the servants, whereas in 
the old-fashioned inns such presents are not looked for. 

It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for 
accommodation and for jinrikishas. They usually weigh more, they 
almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more 
trouble at an inn with their demands for fresh water in the bath, the 
occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food, and 
a dozen other such requirements, to say nothing of their insisting on 
having separate rooms, while Japanese guests — even strangers to one 
another — are habitually required to share a room between them. 

Though one should always choose the best inn in each place to sleep 
at, it will often be found more convenient to lunch at some wayside 
tea-house or eating-house. The more elegant repast at the higher class inn 
frequently takes much longer to prepare than it is worth ; besides which, 
most foreign travellers carry their own provisions. 

In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikkd, Karui- 
zawa, Miyanoshita, Kyoto, Nagoya, etc., the general charge is from 5 to 12 
yen a day, everything included except wines. The charge per diem for a 
native servant is commonly 1 yen. The charges at the hotels under foreign 
management in the Open Ports are from 5 to 15 yen. 



Inns. Travelling Expenses. Climate, 7 

It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers 
in Japan put up are of three kinds, — the European hotel, the Europeanised 
or half -European half -Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely native inn 
(yadoya). The ryori-ya, or eating-house, supplies meals with less delay 
than the regular inns, but rarely offers sleeping accommodation. The 
tea-house {chaya) is different again, being a place where people neither 
sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take light 
refreshments. Residents in Japan, however, often include inns under 
the denomination of tea-houses. Every little railway station has its tea- 
house, which undertakes to purchase the traveller's ticket and to check 
his luggage. 

Many inns now provide chairs and tables. Beds are still very rare ; 
but good quilts (futon) are laid down on the mats, wherever may be most 
convenient ; pillows of sorts are now common, or else a small quilt will be 
rolled up as a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net is provided. The 
use of sheets, too, has become common. No inn in native style has a 
dining-room. Each guest dines in his own apartment at whatever time 
he (or more often the host) may select. 

The average charge (to foreigners) for jinrikishas in the most frequent- 
ed portions of the country is from 20 to 30 sen per n, the same per hour, 
and yen 2.50 per diem. About 50 per cent is added to these rates in bad 
weather and at night. With luggage, or when two or more persons are 
travelling together, half or three-quarters of the expense of jinrikishas may 
be saved by engaging a basha (see p. 10). But the tendency of late years 
has been towards constantly increased rates, owing to the rise in the price 
of rice and other staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gratuity 
(sakaie) to jinrikisha-men after a hard run of any distance. 

Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average 
requirements, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a 
guide, should not exceed 16 yen per diem. If he restricts himself to 
mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. A certain 
saving is also effected when two or three persons travel together. 

Passports are no longer needed in Japan proper, all that is necessary 
is compliance with the regulations requiring visitors at an inn to inscribe 
their name, nationality, age, profession, etc., in the register. It is a 
common Jajmnese custom to carry letters of introduction (annai-jo) from inn 
to inn. This offers advantages, especially in seasons of epidemic disease 
or under any other circumstances liable to cause the traveller to be viewed 
with suspicion, or when, for the purposes of any special investigation, he 
wishes to be brought into intimate relations with his hosts along the road. 
Many inns keep printed forms of annai-jo, which they fill in with the 
traveller's name. Occasionally these, and the little paper slips in which 
toothpicks are wrapped up, as also the fans or towels which it is still the 
custom in many places to present on departure to those guests who have 
given a suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Japanese taste in 
small matters of every-day life. 

10. — Climate; Deess; Time of Visit. 

Remember that Japan is not in the tropics, and bring warm clothing 
with you, whatever be the season of your visit ; also very light clothing, if 
your visit be in the summer. Even in July, when the mean temperature 
of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, days may come when you will be glad 
of all your winter things. This applies still more to the mountains. On 



8 Introduction: — Climate. Dress 

the other hand, be more careful of exposure to the sun than you would 
be in England. A sun helmet and a white umbrella are useful additions 
to the traveller's wardrobe. 

Though garments of the roughest description will suffice for the 
country districts, bring good clothes, such as might be worn at home, in 
which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mix, if need be, in society, 
whether Japanese or foreign. Japanese officials now attend their offices 
in frock or morning coats, and Europeans visiting them should be similarly 
attired. At garden parties and special social functions, frock-coats and 
tall hats are expected. With regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such 
as can be pulled off and on easily, as it is necessary to remove one's boots 
every time one enters a house or temple, in order not to soil the mats on which 
the Japanese sit. Grave offence is given, and naturally given, by the 
disregard of this cleanly custom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides 
are therefore to be preferred, except for mountain work. If your boots 
give out, try the native straw sandals (waraji) with the native sock (tabi), 
which give a better foothold than boots on smooth rocks. Many foreign- 
ers have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition required being 
a small piece of cotton- wool to prevent chafing by the thong which passes 
between the great and second toes. Boots barely holding together can be 
made to last a day or two longer by tying waraji underneath them. 
Kanjiki, that is, iron clamps of triangular shape with spikes, are often 
fastened below the waraji for walking over snow. The native blue cotton 
gaiters called kyahan afford excellent protection from the attacks of flies, 
and from the rank undergrowth so often found on the lower slopes of 
Japanese mountains. Some prefer putties. 

At Yokohama, Chinese tailors attend the hotels, and will fit out 
travellers with duck, crape, and other light clothing, literally between a 
night and a morning. Washing is well and expeditiously done at the 
Open Ports and at the principal summer resorts. 

Roughly speaking, the Japanese summer is hot and frequently wet ; 
September and the first half of October still wetter ; the late autumn and 
early winter cool, comparatively dry, and delightful ; February and March 
disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather, which is all the 
more keenly felt in Japanese inns devoid of fire-places ; the late spring 
rainy and windy, with beautiful days interspersed. But different years 
vary greatly from each other. The average temperature of January, which 
is the coldest month, is between 36° and 37° Fahrenheit at Tokyo; but 
there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the year, namely, 
from November to March inclusive. Skating, however, is rare. The 
average temperature of August is 78°, the thermometer sometimes register- 
ing over 90°. The climate of Northern Japan from Sendai onwards is 
much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler during July and 
August. A similar remark applies even more forcibly to the entire West 
Coast, which is exposed to the icy winds that blow direct from Siberia. 
Kishu, Southern Shikoku, and Southern Kyushu are warmer all the 
year round. 

Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which 
season to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo or 
in Kyoto during the first half of April to see the lovely display of cherry- 
blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by other 
flowers, — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises, — well-woith seeing both for 
their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese sight- 
seers whom they attract. Further north and higher in altitude, the 
blossoms are two or three weeks later. If not able to visit Kyoto early in 



Time of Visit. Provisions. 9 

April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November, 
when the autumn leaves are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo 
is less favoured in this respect, but the chrysanthemums there early in 
November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be 
devoted to Nikko, to Miyanoshita, Karuizawa, Ikao, Unzen, or other mineral 
bath resorts, or else to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous 
districts of the interior of the Main Island, which are practically inac- 
cessible except between June and October. No high passes should be 
attempted before May, — not so much on account of the snow as because 
the aversion of the Japanese coolies to crossing it raises obstacles which 
would not be experienced in Europe. Fuji is only ascended during the 
summer. 

11.— Pko VISIONS. 

Except at some of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side 
resorts, meat, bread, and other forms of European food are scarce. Even 
fowls are rarely obtainable ; for though plenty may be seen in almost 
every village, the people object to selling them — partly because they keep 
them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a lingering Buddhist 
dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot subsist on the native 
fare of rice, eggs, and fish (this, too, not to be counted on in the 
mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Wines, spirits, 
aerated waters, and cigars are equally unobtainable ; but beer is to be met 
with in most towns, the Kirin Beer brewed at Yokohama being excellent, 
as are the JEbisu Beer of Tokyo and other brands of the same company. 
It is advisable to take one or two knives, forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a 
tin-opener, and the most elementary cooking utensils ; also a few candles. 
Plates and glasses can be borrowed almost everywhere. Persons fairly 
easy to please and who wish to travel lightly, can reduce the size of 
their provision basket by using the rice, fish, and eggs of the country 
as auxiliary to what they carry with them. Curry-powder will often help 
to make insipid Japanese dishes palatable, and shbyu (soy) adds a zest to 
soups. "When starting ofi* for the first time, it is best to err on the side 
of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopefully from a 
distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers embittered when 
brought face to face with its unsatisfying actuality. 

Fresh milk may now be obtained on all the ordinary lines of travel. 
It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may have drained. 
Boiled water is, however, generally safe, and easy to procure in this land 
of perpetual tea-drinking. 

The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable by 
most foreigners : — 

Kasuteira, sponge-cake. 

Miso-shiru, bean-soup. 

Sakana no shio-yaki, broiled fish. 

Sakana no tempura, fish fritter. 

Sake, an alcoholic liquor made from rice, and generally taken hot. 

Sembei, thin biscuits of various kinds. 

Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette. 

Tori-nabe, chicken cut up small and stewed. 

Ushi-nabe, beef similarly treated. 

Unagi-meshi, layers of rice with ee's dene in soy. 

Yokan, sweet bean-paste. 



10 Introduction : — Means of Locomotion. Luggage. 

12. — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage. 

Take railway or electric tramway wherever available. On those plains 
which no railway yet traverses, take jinrikisha. Basha, a springless, very 
uncomfortable one-horse shay, is gradually superseding the jinrikisha 
throughout the country ; but this conveyance should be avoided by all who 
object to having their bones shaken and their nerves shattered. Such, in a 
few words, is our advice, founded on long personal experience. Other 
possible conveyances are pack-horses (but the Japanese pack-saddle is 
torture), cows, the kago, — a species of small palanquin, uncomfortable at 
first, but not disliked by many old residents, — and lastly, chairs borne by 
four coolies ; but these have only recently been introduced from China, 
and are not found except at Miyanoshita, Nikk5, and a very few other 
places much resorted to by foreigners. Persons obliged to use the pack- 
saddle will find considerable relief by improvising stirrups of rope. The 
pleasantest sort of trip for a healthy man is that in which walking and 
jinrikisha-riding are combined. In those hilly districts which make Japan 
so picturesque, walking is the only possible, or at least the only pleasant, 
method of progression. The luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on a 
coolie's back. Motor cars and bicycles are less used than in Europe be- 
cause hilliness, indifferent roads and bridges and extremes of climate 
combine to prevent Japan from being a good field for such modes of 
locomotion. Motor cars, however, are increasing rapidly and can be hired 
in the chief cities for long or short tours. 

Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised to 
compress their luggage within narrow limits. This is specially necessary 
in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, where one 
coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular work, or 
possibly a buxom lass— is often the sole means of transport that a village 
can supply, all the horses being generally with their masters miles away 
in the mountains. 

It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaux, and to divide 
the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on 
a coolie's hod, or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse's load. The 
Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi-gori are much recommended, as 
cheap, portable, capacious, and contractible. The yanagi-gori (often called 
kori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting over it to 
any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only for clothes 
and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket diminishes 
as the stores are consumed, without any empty space being left for the 
remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these yanagi-gori — one 
for personal effects, the other for provisions— should suffice for him who 
intends to rough it. They should be provided with a large wrapper of 
oil-paper (abura-gami) against the rain, and fastened either with cords, 
which can be procured anywhere, or with stout leather straps. 

As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some- 
times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair. 
Travellers must, therefore, not be astonished if they come across roads 
which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become 
almost impassable even for foot passengers, — the result of a single season 
of floods or typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to 
the violence of the Japanese climate. It is furthermore probable that 
the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from 
the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain accurate 
information. It is hoped, however, that such discrepancies will never 



Where to Go and What to See. 11 

be so great as seriously to affect the traveller's comfort. An apparent 
error of \ mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage of the 
itineraries. This arises from the fact that the mileage of each stage 
of a journey being given only within \ mile of the actual distance, the 
fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as carefully 
as possible, sometimes unavoidably accumulate. On the other hand, the 
so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage column, 
but by direct calculation (also within \ mile) of the value of the total in 
ri and cho. Distances are indicated wherever possible. Yfhen the time for 
a walk is given instead, it must be understood to be that of an average 
pedestrian. 

Europeans usually avail themselves of the first-class railway cars 
whenever such are provided, and ladies in particular are recommended to 
do so, as not only are the other classes apt to be overcrowded, but the 
ways of the Japanese bourgeoisie with regard to clothing, the management 
of children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. Smoking 
is general even in the first-class, except in compartments specially labelled 
to the contrary ; but such are not often provided. 

Sleeping and dining-cars have been introduced only on the main 
artery connecting Nagasaki with Kobe, Tokyo and Aomori; but neat 
little boxes of Japanese food (bento), sandwiches, tea, beer, cakes, and ice 
are offered for sale at the principal stations. The car attendant will look 
after these and other wants. 

The Railway Regulations permit holders of tickets for distances of over 
50 miles to break their journey at the more important places. Luggage is 
checked as in [he United States, each first-class passenger being allowed to 
carry 100 lbs., and each second-class passenger 60 lbs., free of charge. 

Licensed porters (aka-bo), distinguished by scarlet caps, are in at- 
tendance at the larger stations, and carry parcels for a few cents. 

13. — Where to Go and What to See. 

"How long does it take to do Japan?" is a question often asked. 
If by " doing " Japan be meant hurrying through its chief sights, the 
globe-trotter can manage this in three or four weeks, by adopting one of 
the Outline Tours given in Sect. 28. He who is bent on more serion.s 
observation will not find four months too much ; and one who has spent 
that time rarely fails to come again. Travellers' tastes differ widely. 
Some come to study a unique civilisation, some come in search of health, 
some to climb volcanoes, others to investigate a special art or industry. 
Those who desire to examine Buddhist temples will find what they want 
in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at Tokyo, and at Nikko. The chief 
shrines of Shinto are at Ise, and at Kizuki in the province of Izumo. The 
" Three Places" (San-kei) considered by the Japanese the most beautiful 
in their country, are Matsushima in the North, Miyajima in the Inland 
Sea, and Ama-no-Hashidate on the Sea of Japan. Persons in search of 
health and comparative coolness during the summer months, to be obtain- 
ed without much " roughing," are advised to try Miyanoshita, Nikko, Ikao, 
or Karuizawa in the Tokyo district, Arima in the Kobe district, or (if they 
come from China, and wish to remain as near home as possible) Unzen 
in the Nagasaki district. All the above, except Kizuki, may be safely 
recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially suited for persons residing in 
Japan proper, and desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will 
get sea-bathing, and in the interior a little fishing and a peep at the Aino 
aborigines. But Japan is more especially the happy hunting-ground of 



12 Introduction : — Purchases. Shooting. 

the lover of the picturesque. With the symmetrical outlines of its volca- 
noes, with its fantastic rocks, its magnificent timber which somehow, even 
when growing naturally, produces the impression of having been planted 
for artistic effect, with its tiny shrines and quaint hostelries constantly 
placed so as to command vistas that delight the eye, this beautiful land is 
a fitting abode for the most sesthetic of modern peoples. Every variety of 
scenery, from the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be 
found. Of the former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama 
(Kamakura, Enoshima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and 
its surrounding belt of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso 
valley, North-Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the north of the Main 
Island, and many more. Rugged and sublime in their character are the 
Hida-Etchu range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, and the mass of mountains 
lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa. But the travelling 
amidst these rough mountains is itself rough in the extreme. None but 
thoroughly healthy men inured to hardship should attempt it. 

The provincial towns have, for the most part, little individuality. 
As for what is called "seeing Japanese life," the best plan is to avoid 
the Foreign Settlements in the Open Ports. You will see theatres, 
wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of European uniforms, 
political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Christian chapels, in the 
big cities. The old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in the 
districts not opened up by railways. 

14. — Purchase and Shipment of Goods. 

Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every de- 
scription in the large stores of ITokohama and Kobe. They will also find 
much to attract them in Kyoto, Tokyo, Nagoya, and Nagasald. The names 
of the best shops are given under each of these towns. It was formerly, 
and is still to some extent, characteristic of the Japanese tradesman and 
artisan-artist to hesitate to bring out his best specimens at once. The 
rule is that several visits are necessary before he will display his choicest 
articles, and that even then a long time must be spent in bargaining. 
Some establishments of the more modern sort have fixed prices. This 
remark also applies to the Kwankoba, or bazaars. Japan is now almost 
denuded of old curios. Some have found their way into the museums 
of the country, while priceless collections have crossed the sea to Europe 
and America. But many of the productions of the present day are 
eminently beautiful, more especially the cloisonne, the metal- work, and 
embroideries. 

A reference to the local Directories (or Hong Lists, as they are also 
called) will supply the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which 
make a business of shipping travellers' purchases to Europe, America, 
and elsewhere. As a rule, too, foreign firms which deal in curios will 
undertake to forward anything to destination. Remember, when sending 
a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as 
it will be opened and examined at the Japanese Custom-House. The 
shippers should be furnished with a detailed list of the contents and 
their value, and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more 
solid manner after examination. 

15. — Shooting. 
The mountainous districts of Japan shelter deer and boar, though in 



Shooting. Fishing. 13 

ever decreasing numbers, while in Yezo some bear still remain. Duck 
of various kinds, the green pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hare, 
are to be found in the plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering 
the flat country, while on somewhat higher ground the copper pheasant 
has its abode in the thickest cover. Hybrids between the green pheasant 
and an imported Chinese species are also sometimes met with. Japan, 
with its rich plains and hills giving ample shelter to game, should natural- 
ly be a good sporting country; but it does not seem to be such in fact. 
The law protecting birds and animals during the breeding season has 
never been rigorously enforced. Moreover, extensive districts have been 
shot over for decades, first by foreigners, more latterly by Japanese. In 
other places much of the best sporting ground is privately preserved, and 
hence inaccessible, the total result being that this country is not one to 
recommend to the sportsman. 

In Japan proper the shooting season lasts from the 15th October till 
the 15th April ; but in Yezo it begins a month earlier. Licenses may be 
obtained from the local authorities, on making a written application in 
due form in the Japanese language. The fee varies according to the 
applicant's income, the maximum being 30 yen. 

16. — Fishing. 

Fish. First of the sporting fish in point of size and delicacy is the 
masu {Salmo japonicus), pink-fleshed and weighing from 3 to 6 lbs. It is 

in the best condition when the temperature of the water ranges from 55° to 
65°. In Biwa, Chtizenji, and other lakes of the Main Island, this fish is 
taken with the spinning bait only ; in the rivers of Yezo, if a run is on, it 
will rise greedily to the fly. The ame-masu, white-fleshed, weighing from 
J- lb. up to 3 lbs., is found in the rivers of Yezo and in the more northerly 
streams of the Main Island. It is a fly-taking fish, though at times it will 
take a small spoon or a worm. The yamame, also white-fleshed but more 
closely allied to the trout than the two preceding species, is found in most 
of the central and northern rivers of the Main Island. At times it will rise 
freely to the fly, but is more often taken with dried fish spawn, worms, or 
the natural insect. Its average weight is between J lb. and 1 lb. The 
sea-trout (pink flesh) run in June and take a fly ; but the large salmon do 
not. The iwana, with lemon and orange spots on the belly, lives in the 
same streams as the yamame, but is fond of lurking under stones in small 
torrents high up among the hills. The ito, a white-fleshed fish, is found 
only in Yezo ; it attains to 10 lbs. and rises more readily to the fly than the 
masu. The ai is to be met with in any of the shallow rivers winding 
through broad pebbly beds, which are so common a feature of the Japanese 
landscape. This is the fish commonly taken at Gifu with the help of 
cormorants. "When quite small, in April and May, it is caught with the 
fly. In July and August when it is larger, Japanese fishermen catch 
it with a decoy fish, by foul-hooking, or with casting-nets. 

Locality. The masu is common in most of the rivers of Yezo, par- 
ticularly on the East coast. Eivers to be recommended are the Sarugawa, 
the Sarachiputo, on the "West coast, the rivers between Muroran and 
Tomakomai, and the Yurapu on the East coast. But the rapid develop- 
ment of the railway system in Yezo is opening up many other places. 
Sport with this fish can also be obtained on the Main Island in Lakes 
Biwa and Chtizenji. The ame-masu, as noted above, is found both on 
the Main Island and in Yezo. In this latter the best-known localities 
are Lake Chitose and the river running through the swamps beyond Toma- 



14 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints. 

komai. In the Main Island, the masu is found in the northerly streams 
on both the East and West coasts; but the river joining Lakes Yumoto 
and Chuzenji, is more accessible. There is a good stretch of water near 
Fukuoka, in the province of Rikuoku, which would probably be best 
worked by staying at Ichinohe. Further south, near Furusawa, and close 
to the railway, is a fishing river called Naga-gawa. Yamame and iwana 
exist in the streams among the hills of Chichibu, and in those around the 
Eofu plain. The season lasts from April to August. 

17. — Miscellaneous Hints. 

Never enter a Japanese House with your boots on. The mats take the 
place of our chairs and sofas. What would we say to a man who trod on 
our chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ? 

In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the 
procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost in- 
variably polite and serviceable. These officials must not be insulted by 
the offer of a tip. The same remark applies to railway guards and public 
servants generally. 

Photography is prohibited under severe penalties within areas several 
miles wide in the vicinity of forts and arsenals. 

One standard time is now kept throughout Japan, — that of E. Long. 
135°, which passes through Akashi near Kobe. This time is 9 hours ahead 
of Greenwich, and 14 hours ahead of American " Eastern Time." 

Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become 
acquainted will often desire to exchange cards. 

If going oif the beaten tracks, take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; 
but those who do not mind the odour of oil-paper (abura-kami), will find 
sheets of it stretched over the quilts by far the best protection against 
fleas. Take soap, candles, and some disinfectant to counteract the un- 
pleasant odours that often disturb the comfort of guests in Japanese inns. 
Also take towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a pillow-case 
to lay on the extemporised pillow which the tea-house people will arrange. 
Instead of loose sheets, some prefer to sew two sheets together to form a 
bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck. 

If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money 
for current expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexation 
as to change, bargaining, and such matters. If you have much money 
with you, entrust it to the host of each respectable hotel you stop at, and 
get his receipt for it. 

Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will thus 
most easily obtain good coolies or horses for the day's journey. By 
arriving at your destination before sunset, you will be likely to find the 
bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid the trouble and delay entailed 
by the necessity of getting other water heated. You. will also have a better 
choice of rooms. 

Make your plans as simple at possible. The conditions of travel in 
this country do not lend themselves to intricate arrangements. 

When planning your day's journey, allow an hour for each ri to be 
done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and un- 
avoidable delays. Ten ri (24J miles) is considered by the Japanese a 
proper day's work. However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the 
coolies' request to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no work on 
an empty stomach. 

The Japanese, whose grande passion is bathing, use water at higher 



Miscellaneous Hints. 15 

temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit — than physicians in Europe consider 
healthful. No one, however, vi.ll be injured by taking baths of between 
100° and 104° Fahrenheit, unless he have a weak heart or be liable to 
congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot 
baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better 
than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to 
time, and strong persons may advantageously end up with a cold douche. 
Paradoxical as the assertion may sound, it is nevertheless true that the 
hotter the bath, the greater the impunity with which one may after- 
wards expose oneself to the cold air. The reason why people at home 
have come to entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is 
that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves up 
to the neck. The Japanese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of getting 
into the same bath one after another, or even at the same time ; but it is 
a breach of etiquette to discolour the water by the use of soap. They 
soap themselves outside. The first guest to arrive at an inn has the prior 
right to the bath. Formerly promiscuous bathing of the sexes was 
common, and though now forbidden by the police regulations, is still 
carried on at some of the provincial spas. 

Massage is much practised in Japan, and is an excellent restorative 
from fatigue after hard exercise. The services of a blind shampooer (amma 
san) may be obtained at almost every inn. 

It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese 
inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything open 
on account of thieves, and there is a police regulation to enforce closing. 

Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour 
towards the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent 
suave manners, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely 
wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese, 
however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous. His courtesy, 
however, differs from that of the Yv r est in not being specially directed 
towards ladies. Many travellers irritate the Japanese by talking and 
acting as if they thought Japan and her customs a sort of peep-show 
set up for foreigners to gape at. Others run counter to native custom, 
and nevertheless expect to get things at native prices. They cannot 
understand why a bill for several dollars should be presented to them 
for ten minutes' dancing, which perhaps after all has not amused 
them. The reason for the high charge is simple. Japanese do not 
send for dancing-girls without ordering a dinner at the same time. 
The dancing is an incident of the dinner, and it is in this dinner 
that the tea-house proprietor finds his profit. He does not care to have 
his premises invaded at unusual hours by people who take nothing for the 
good of the house ; neither can the dancers get ready on the spur of the 
moment. Too many foreigners, we fear, give not only trouble and offence, 
but just cause for indignation, by their disregard of propriety, especially in 
their behaviour towards Japanese women, whose engaging manners and 
naive ways they misinterpret. The subject is too delicate to be treated 
here. We may, however, be permitted to remark in rjassing that the 
waitresses at any respectable Japanese inn deserve the same respectful 
treatment as is accorded to girls in a similar position at home. 

Xever show any impatience. You will only get stared at or laughed 
at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in this 
land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadaima, 
which the dictionaries, in their simplicity, render by " immediately," may 
mean any time between now and Christmas. Storming will not mend 



16 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints. Language. 

matters, when you find (to take one example out of a hundred) that your 
jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started, 
and you have been calculating to arrive at such and such a place at 
such and such an hour. Or to take another instance. You are at a 
large town, whose port lies only 3 or 4 miles distant. You ask at your 
inn for information about steamers, and are told (in perfect good faith) 
that they leave daily. On arrival at the port, you find they leave but 
once in three days, and yours left yesterday. What does a Japanese do 
under such circumstances? He says "shikata ga nai" ("it can't be 
helped"), and there is an end of the matter. Imitate his example, if 
you wish to save yourself and others much waste of temper and energy. 
It is best to resign yourself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting 
patiently, you have an opportunity for studying Japanese life. Neither be 
moved to anger because you are asked personal questions by casual 
acquaintances. To ask such questions is the Far-Eastern way of showing 
kindly interest. 

18. — Language. 

The Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly, 
is easy to acquire a smattering of; and even a smattering will add im- 
mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the traveller 
into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him from the 
wearisome tutelage of guides and interpreters. 

Eemember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be 
sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian, 
that is to say : — 

a as in father, i as in pin, 

e as in pet, o as in pony, 

u as in full. 

There is scarcely any tonic accent ; in other words, all the syllables 
are pronounced equally or nearly so. But particular care must be taken 
to distinguish long o and u from short o and u. The short vowels are 
pronounced in a very light, staccato manner. Thus tori nasai means 
" Please take this " ; but tori nasai means " Please come (or go, lit. 
pass) in." Short i and u sometimes become almost inaudible, and are 
then marked i and u in the following vocabulary, thus arimasu, "there 
is ; " wakarimashita, " I understand." In diphthongs, each vowel retains 
its original force. Thus : — 

ai as in the English word " sky" 
au as in the English word " cow." 
ei as in the English word " hay." 

G is hard as in " give," never soft as in " gin ; " but in Tokyo and 
Eastern Japan it sounds like ng when in the middle of a word, exactly as 
in the English words " singer," " springy " (not " sing-ger," " spring-gy "). 
8 is always sharp as in " mouse." W is often omitted after k or g, as 
kashi, " cake," for kwashi. Be very careful to pronounce double con- 
sonants really double, as in the English words " sho^-tower," " mearmess," 
" cockcrow." Thus kite with one t means " coming ; " but kitte with two 
fs means " a ticket ; " ama is " a nun," amma " a shampooer." 

As in all other languages of the Tartar or Mongolian type, so in 



Language. 



17 



Japanese the adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the 
nominative. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really 
"postpositions." Explanatory or dependent clauses precede the principal 
clause, and the chief verb comes at the end of the sentence. There is no 
distinction between singular and plural, or between the different persons 
of the verb, and there are no genders. Consequently, such phrases as 
KimasMta ka? may equally well mean "Has he come?" "Has she come?" 
or " Have they come ?" — for pronouns are very little used, the sense they 
would convey being generally left to be gathered from the context. Ques- 
tions are asked by suffixing the particle ka, as in the instance just cited. 
There are no negative adverbs or pronouns, like our English " not," 
" never," " nothing," etc. ; but the tenses of Japanese verbs have negative 
forms. Though the conjugations are too complicated to be given here in 
detail, the following specimens of the most useful tenses, positive and 
negative, may be of practical utility. The beginner will probably find the 
Honorific forms the easier to remember ; they are in constant use. 



Paradigm of Japanese Verbs. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past. 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Present. 
Neg. Past. 
Improb. Fut. 



(Plain. 
( Honorific, 
f Plain. 
| Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
| Plain. 
| Honorific. 
(Plain. 
{ Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
| Plain. 
1 Honorific. 



ABU 

Arimasu 

Atta 

Arimashita 

Arb or am daro 

Arimasho 

Atte 

Arimashtte 

Nai 

Arimasen 

Nakatta 

Arimasen deshtta 

Nakaro or arumai 

Arimasumai 



) There is or 
j will be. 

[ There was. 

) There probably will 
J be. 

) There being, there 
} having been. 
\ There is not or 
J will not be. 

} There was not. 

\ There probably will 
J not be. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past, 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Present. 
Neg. Past. 

Improb. Fut. 

Desid. Adj. 
Neg. ditto. 



(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
| Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain, 
j Honorific. 
| Plain. 
I Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 



IKU 

Ikimasu 

Itta 

IkimasJvtta 

Ikb or iku daro 

Ikimashb 

Itte 

Ikimashtte 

Ikanai 

Ikimasen 

Ikanakatta 

Ikimasen deshtta 

Ikumai 

lkimasumai 

1 kitai 

Ikitaku nai 



) I go or 
J shall go. 

1 1 went. 

) I shall probably 

J go. 

) Going, having 

J gone. 

) I do not or 

j shall not go. 

[ I did not go. 

i I shall probably not 
J go. 

I want to go. 

I don't want to go. 



18 



Introduction ; — Language. 



Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past, 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Present. 
Neg. Past. 

Improb. Fut. 

Desid. Adj. 
Neg. ditto. 


(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
| Plain. 
(Honorific. 
| Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
(Honorific. 
(Plain. 
(Honorific. 
| Plain. 
( Honorific. 
| Plain. 
(Honorific. 


KUBU 1 I come or 
Kimasu J shall come. 
Kita \ 7 
Kimashita \ x came * 
Koyo or kuru daro \ I shall probably 
Kimasho J come. 
Kite ) Coming, having 
Kimashite j come. 
Konai ) I do not or 
Kimasen shall not come. 
Konakatta ) T ... -, . 
Kimasen deshita [ I did not come. 

Kimai \ I shall probably not 
Kimasumai \ come. 
Kitai ] I want to come. 
Kitaku nai j I don ' t want to come. 


Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past, 

Probable Fut, 
Gerund. 
Neg. Present. 
Neg. Past. 

Improb. Fut. 

Desid. Adj. 
Neg. ditto. 


(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 
[Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
( Honorific. 


SUBU \ I do or 
Shimasu J shall do. 
Shita ) j ,. , 
Shimashita J 
Shiyb or suru daro ) I shall probably 
Shimashb J do. 
Bliite | Doing, having 
Shimashite done. 
Shinai j I do not or 
Shimasen shall not do. 
Shinakatta ) T -,. -, , -, 
Shimasen deshita \ J M not da 
Shimai \ I shall probably not 
Shimasumai j do. 
Shitai I want to do. 
Shitaku nai I don't want to do. 


Present & Cer- 
tain Future. 

Past. 

Probable Fut. 
Gerund. 
Neg. Present. 
Neg. Past. 

Improb. Fut, 

Desid. Adj. 
Neg. ditto. 


(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
1 Honorific. 
(Plain. 
| Honorific. 
[Plain. 
( Honorific. 
(Plain. 
I Honorific. 
( Plain. 
( Honorific. 


TABEBU \ I eat or 
Tabemasu J shall eat. 
Tabeta ) j t 
Tabemashita J 
Tabeyo or taberu daro \ I shall probably 
Tabemashb J eat. 
Tabete ) Eating, having 
Tabemashtte j eaten. 
Tabenai ) I do not or 
Tabemasen J shall not eat. 
Tabenakatta \ T MA wr . ^ + 
Tabemasen deshita } I did not eat. 
Tabemai } I shall probably not 
Tabemasumai J eat, 
Tabetai I want to eat. 
Tabetaku nai I don't want to eat. 



Language. 



19 



Adjectives are conjugated somewhat after the model of aru, " to be," 
as yoroshii or yoi, "it is good; yokatta, "it was, or would have been 
good ; " yokarb, " it will probably be good ; " yoku nai, " it is not good ; " 
yokute, " being good ; " yoku nakute, " not being good." Similarly warui, 
"is bad;" warukatta ; " was bad;" takai, "is dear;" takaku nai, "not 
dear; " muzukashii, "is difficult ; " muzukashikute, " being difficult," etc. 

The Japanese, like other nations of the Far East, are much addicted 
to the use of polite forms of speech. When two equivalents for the same 
English phrase are given in our " List of Useful Sentences," that marked 
" less polite " should be used only to coolies and others of the lowest 
class. It will be noticed in numerous examples that our English impera- 
tives are almost always softened down to a polite periphrasis with the 

word kudasai, "please give," "condescend to " Sometimes the final 

kudasai is omitted for brevity's sake, as To wo shimete kudasai (lit. 
"Door shutting condescend"), or more familiarly, To ico shimete, "Shut 
the door." The Negative Imperative is mostly rendered as follows: — 
So shicha (for shite wa) ikenai, " Don't do that," lit. "As for so doing, 
it is no go; " Otoshicha ikenai, " Don't drop it." 

The following Vocabulary and Sentences will be found useful. The 
interlinear literal translations show which word corresponds to which, — 
a thing otherwise hopelessly perplexing to the beginner, on account of 
the wide gulf that separates Japanese from English idiom. A useful little 
book for the pocket is Kelly and Walsh's English- Japanese Conversation 
Dictionary. Those ambitious of learning more of the language can provide 
themselves with Chamberlain's Handbook of Colloquial Japanese, Hampden 
and Parlett's English- Japanese Dictionary, and Hepburn's Pocket-Dictionary 
for Japanese-English. 







Vocabulary. 






address 


tokoro-gaki 


billiards 


tama-tsuki 


candle 


rosoku 


(written) 




bill of fare 


kondate 


cards 


karuta 


aerated 


teppo-mizu 


black 


kuroi 


(playing) 




water 




blanket 


furanken, 


cards 


na-fuda, 


bad 


icarui 




ketto 


(visiting) 


meishi 


bag (hand-) kaban 


blue 


aoi 


carriage 


basha 


baggage 


nimotsu 


boat 


fune 


change 


tsuri 


barber 


toko-ya, 


boatman 


sendo 


(money) 




bar (-room) sakaba 


book 


hon 


charcoal 


sumi 


bath (hot) 


furo, o yu 


boots 


kutsu 


cheap 


yasui 


„ (cold) 


mizu-buro 


bottle 


tokkuri 


chicken 


niwatori, 


beans 


mame 


„ (big) 


o-bin 




tori 


bed 


toko 


„ ( small )ko-b in 


chopsticks 


hashi 


bed-clothes 


futon, yogi 


n (hot- 


yu-tampo 


cigar 


maki-tdba- 


bed-room 


7iema, 


water) 






ko, hamaki 




nebeya 


box 


hako 


cigarettes 


kami-maki 


bedstead 


nedai 


brazier 


hibachi 


coal 


sekitan 


beef 


gyu-niku, 


bread 


pan 


coffee 


kbhi, kahe 




ushi 


breakfast 


asa-han 


cold 


samui, 


beer 


biii-u 


bridge 


has hi 




tsumetai 


bell 


yobi-gane 


brocade 


nishVci 


consulate 


rybji-kwan 


bicycle 


jitensha 


bronze 


kara-kane 


coolie 


ninsoku 


big 


bkii 


cabin 


heya 


corkscrew 


sen-nuki 


bill 


kanjo 


cabinet 


tansu 


cotton 


momen 


(account) 




cake 


kwashi 


crape 


chirimen 



20 



Introduction: — Language. 



cucumber 


ki-u?i 


heavy 


omoi, 


mustard 


karashi 


cup 


koppu 




omotai 


napkin 


kuchi-fuki 


curio-shop 


dbgu-ya 


high 


takai 


near 


chikai 


dear 


takai 


hill 


yama 


oil 


abura 


dining-rooms/? oku-db 


horse 


uma 


oil-paper 


abura-gami 


dinner (late 


) yushoku, 


hot 


atsui 


omnibus 


nori-ai- 




yu-han 


hotel 


yadoya, 




basha 


disinfectant shuki-dome 




hoteru 


onions 


negi 


doctor 


isha 


house 


ie, uchi 


orange 


mikan 


door 


to 


ice 


kbri 


overcoat 


gwaitb 


downstairs 


shita 


ink (Indian) sumi 


oyster 


kaki 


driver 


gyosha 


inn 


yadoya 


paper 


kami 


duck (tame) ahiru 


„ -keeper 


aruji, teishi 


parcel 


ko-zutsumi 


„ (wild) kamo 


interpreter 


tsuben 


„ post 


ko-zutsumi 


eels 


unagi 


island 


shima, 




yiibin 


egg 


tamago 


Japan 


Nihon, 


passfmoun 


- tbge 


„ (boiled) ude-tamago 




Nippon 


tain) 




„ (half- 


hanjiku 


kettle 


tetsubin 


path 


michi 


boiled) 




kitchen 


dai-dokoro 


peach 


momo 


egg-plant 


ymsu 


knife 


hbchd 


pear 


nashi 


electric tram densha 


lacquer 


urushi, 


peas 


endo-mame 


embroidery 


r nui-mono 




nurimono 


pen 


fude 


express 


kyiikb- 


lake 


mizu-umi, 


pepper 


koshb 


train 


ressha 




kosui 


persimmon kaki 


fair (festi- 


ennichi 


lamp 


rampu 


pheasant 


kiji 


val) 




landing- 


hatoba 


pin 


tome-bari 


fan (that 


bgi, sensu 


place 




plum 


sumomo, 


shuts) 




lantern 


chbchin 




ume 


fan (not 


uchiwa 


lemonade 


ramune 


policeman 


junsa 


shutting) 




letter 


tegami 


police- 


kbban 


far 


tbi, empb 


light (not 


karui 


station 




feast 


gochisb 


heavy) 




porcelain 


seto-mono 


ferry 


funa- 


light (lamp 


, akari 


porter 


aka-bb 




watashi 


etc.) 




(railway) 




festival 


matsuri 


low 


hikui 


portman- 


kaban 


fire 


hi 


luggage 


nimotsu 


teau 




fire(conflag 


- kwaji 


lunch 


hiru-meshi 


post-office 


yiibin- 


ration) 




mat 


tatami 




kyoku 


fish 


sakana 


match 


tsukegi, 


potatoes 


imo 


flea 


nomi 




matchi 


„ (sweet) Satsuma- 


food 


tabe-mono 


matting 


goza 




imo 


„ (Euro- 


ybshoku 


meat 


niku 


pretty 


kirei 


pean) 




medicine 


kusuri 


price 


nedan 


fork 


nika-sashiy 


melon 


makuwa- 


quail 


uzura 




hoko 


(musk-) 


uri 


railway 


tetsudb 


fowl 


tori 


melon 


suikwa 


„ (light) keiben- 


fruit 


kudamono 


(water-) 






tetsudb 


garden 


niwa 


milk 


(ushi no) 


„ train kisha 


gold 


kin 




chichi 


raw 


nama 


good 


yoroshii 


milk 


kanzume- 


razor 


kami-sori 


grapes 


oudb 


(tinned) 


nochichi 


red 


akai 


green 


midori 


money 


kane, kinsu 


rice (boiled) meshi, 


guide 


annai-sha 


mosquito 


ka 




gozen 


„ book 


annai-sho 


„ -nel 


> kaya 


river 


kawa 


hard 


katai 


mountain 


yama 


road 


michi 



Language. 



21 



road (new) shindo 
„ (old) kyiido 
room hey a, 

zashiki 
rug fcetto 

salmon shake 
salmon- 
trout masu 
salt shiwo 
sardines iwashi 
screen bybbu 
sea umi 
servant meshitsukai 
shaving- hige no yu 

water 
ship fune 

shop mise 

shop-keeper akindo 
silk kinu 

silver gin 

small chiisai 

snipe shigi 

soap shdbon 

soup soppu, 

tsuyu 
soy shoyu, 

shitaji 
spoon saji 

stamp yfMn-gitte 

(postage-) 
station station, 

teishaba 

I watakushi 
My icatakiishi no 
You anata, omae 
Your a?mto no, omae no 
He ano fttfo, ano otoko 



station eki-cho 

master 

steamer jokisen 
steam- ko-joki 

launch 
stick tsue, 

sutekki 
strawberry ichigo 
street machi, tori 

sugar sato 

supper yushoku, 

yuhan 
tea cha, o cha 

„ (Chinese) Kankin-cha 
tea- cup cha-wan 
tea-house chaya 
tea-pot kibisho 

telegram dempo 
telegraph denshin- 

ofnce kyoku 

telephone den-ica 
temple tera 

(Buddhist) 
temple jinja, miya 

(Shinto) 

ticket kippu 

„ (return) qfuku- 
gippu 
time-table jikan-hyo 
tinned pro- kanzume 

visions 
toothpick koydji 



She ano liito, ano onna 

His 

Her 

It sore, are 

We watakushi-domo 



ano Into no 



towel tenugui 

town machi 

train kisha 

„ (first) ichi-ban- 

gisha 
„ (last) shu-ressha 
„ (ex- kyuko- 
press) ressha 
„ ( through )chokkb 
tramway tetsudo- 
basha 
„ (electric) densha 
trout ai. yamame 

tub (not re- gybzui 

gular bath) 
ugly migurushii 

umbrella kasa, 

kbmori 
upstairs nikai 
vegetables yasai 
vinegar su 
waiter ! boy ! 
waitress ! ne-san ! 
water (cold) mizu 
„ (hot) yu, o yu 
„ (tepid) nuruma-yu 
water-closet benjo, 

chbzuba 
white shiroi 

window mado 
wine budoshu 



You (plur.) anata-gata 
They ano htto-tachi 

This kore 

That sore, are 



1 — hxtotsu or ichi 


11 


+- 


2 zi futatsu or ni 


12 


+= 


3 H mitsu or san 


13 


+H 


4 pg yotsu or shi 


14 


+ 


5 351 itsiitsu or go 


15 


+51 


6 ^; mutsu or roku 


16 


+* 


7 -fc nanatsu or shichi 


17 


+-fc 


8 A yatsu or hachi 


18 


+A 


9 ji kokonotsu or ku 


19 


-hrt, 


10 -f- £5 or ju 


20 


-i- 



jii-ichi 

jii-ni 

ju-san 

jii-shi 

ju-go 

ju-roku 

ju-shichi 

ju-hachi 

jii-ku 

ni-ju 



21 
30 






40 H-f- 

50 S + 

60 *;+ 

70 -fc-f- 

80 A+ 

90 %+ 

ioo -g- 

1000 ^ 



ni-ju-ichi 

san-ju 

shi-ju 

go-ju 

roku-ju 

shtchi-ju 

hachi-ju 

ku~ju 

hyaku 



No. 1 ichi-ban 

No. 2 ni-ban 

No. 3 sam-ban 

No. 4 yo-ban 



1 o'clock 

2 „ 

3 „ 

4 „ 



ichi-ji 
ni-ji 
sanrji 
yo-ji 



5 o'clock go-ji 

5 J „ go-ji-han 

6 „ roku-ji 

6| „ roku-ji-han 



22 



Introduction : — Language. 



1 yen 


ichi-yen 


20 sen 


ni-jis-sen 


1st class 


ittb, jbtb 


2 „ 


ni-yen 


30 „ 


san-jis-sen 


2nd „ 


ni-tb, chutb 


10 sen 


jis-sen 


40 „ 


shi-jis-sen 


3rd „ 


san-tb, katb 



A jinrikisha with one man is called ichi-nin-biki ; with two men, ni-nin- 
bikl. A carriage with one horse is it-tb-biki ; with two horses, ni-tb-biki. 

Many of our words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things 
for which they stand are not commonly known in Japan. Such are, for 
instance, jam, lamb, pudding. The following are examples of Japanese 
words for which there are no exact English equivalents : 

ato-oshi, a second jinrikisha coolie who pushes from behind. 

bentb, lunch carried with one. 

bentb-bako, a box to hold such lunch. 

bettb, a running groom. 

dotera, a kind of wadded dressing-gown. 

kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried. 

kai-kiri, engaging the whole (of a vehicle or boat). 

kimono, a Japanese gown. 

kya-han, a kind of gaiters. 

yanagi-gori, a useful sort of trunk made of wicker-work. 

yukata, a thin dressing-gown worn before and after the bath. 

Useful Sentences. 



How do you do ? 

Good morning. 

It is fine weather to-day. 

It is hot to-day. 
It is cold to-day. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 






Konnichi wa ? 
To-day as for 






hayb. 
Honourably early 






Konnichi iva, 
To-day as for, 
gozaimasu. 
is 


yoi tenki 
good weather 


de 
by 


atsil 
Honourably hot 


gozaimasu. 
*augustly-is 




samfi gozaimasu. 





(The above weather remarks almost amount to greetings.) 



Good evening. 

Good night. 

Goodbye. 

Thank you. 

Pray don't mention it. 

That is so (= English "yes"). 

„ (less polite). 



Komban wa ! 
This evening as for 

yasumi nasai. 

Honourably restiug deign 

Saybnara. 

Arigatb. 

Do itashimashite ! 
How having done 

Sayb de gozaimasu. 
So by ' is 

So desu, or 8b da. 
So is so is 



Language. 



23 



Is that so ? 
That is not so. 

Isn't that so ? 

Is that all right ? (polite) 

„ (less polite). 

That is all right. 
Is it this ? 

It is this. 
It isn't this. 

Do you understand ? 

I understand. 

I don't understand. 

Please speak slowly. 

Please come here. 

Come in. 

Please sit down. 

Please come again. 

Please excuse me. 

Allow me to congratulate you. 

This is plenty. • 
No, thank you. 
What shall we do ? 

What is it ? 

What is this ? 

Please show me. 

Please let me know. 

Just let me look. 

Please go and ask. 

You had better go and ask. 

Just go and see. 



So desu ka ? 

So ja nai. 
So by isn't 

So ja nai ka? 

Yoroshiil gozaimasu ka ? 
Good is ? 

Yoroshii ka ? 

Yoroshiil gozaimasu, or Yoroshii. 

Kore desu ka ? 
This is ? 

Kore desu. 

Kore ja nai. 
This by isn't 

Wakarimashita ka ? 
Have understood ? 

Wakarimashita, 

Wakarimasen. 

Soro-soro hanashtte kudasai. 
Slowly speaking condescend 

Oide nasal. 

Honourable-exit deign 

hairi nasal. 

Honourably entering deign 

Dozo o kake nasal. 

Please honourably to-place deign 

Mata irasshal. 
Again come 

Qomen nasal. 

August-excuse deign 

medeto gozaimasu. 

Honourably congratulatory is 
Mo takusan. 
Already plenty 

Do shimasho ? 
How shall do 

Nan desu ka ? 
What is ? 

Kore wa, nan desu ka? 
This as for, what is ? 
Misete kudasai. 
Showing condescend 
Shirashite kudasai. 
Informing condescend 
Ghotto haiken. 

Just respectful-glance 
Kiite kudasai. 
Asking condescend 
Kiite kuru ga ii. 
Asking to-come (nom.) good 
Chotto mite kite kudasai. 

Just looking coming condescend 



u 



Introduction : — Language 



Is that all right ? 

Don't do that. 

That won't do. 

Why do you do such things ? 

Please take care. ) 

Please pay attention. J 

Where is it ? 

Who is it? 
When is it? 
Where is it from ? 
What o'clock is it ? 

Is this all? 

I don't know. 

He says he doesn't know. 

Wait a little. 

Go quickly. 

That is no good, or That won't do. 

Which is yours ? 

That is mine. 

Who is that ? 

What is his name ? 

That is enough. 

Oh, what a bother ! 

Don't make such a row ! 

Don't bother so ! 

What a horrid smell ! 

Please leave off. 
Don't do that. 



Sore de yoroshii ka? 
That by good ? 

So shicha ikenai. 
So as for doing, is no go 

Sore ja ikemasen. 
That by, is no go 

Naze sonna koto wo suru ka? 
Why such things (accus.) do ? 

Ki wo tsukete kudasai. 
Spirit (accus.) fixing condescend 

Boko desu ka ? 
Where is ? 

Dare desu ka ? 

Itsu desu ka ? 

Boko kara desu ka ? 

Nan-doki ' desu ka ? 
What-hour is ? 

Kore dake desu ka? 
This only is ? 

Shirirnasen (less polite Shiranai). 

Shirimasen to iimasu. 
Knows-not that says 

Sv.koshi mate. 
Little wait 

Hayaku ! Hayaku ! 
Quickly quickly 

Sore wa dame desu. 
That as for, useless is 

Botchi ga anata no desu ka? 
Which (nom.) you of is ? 

Kore ga watakushi^no desu. 
This (nom.) me of is 

Ano Mto wa, dare desu ka ? 
That person as for, who is ? 

A710 htto no na wa, nan to 
That person of name as for, what that 
iimasu ka ? 
say ? 

Mo yoroshii. 
Already good 

Komatta men 1 da ne! 
Troubled thing is, indeed 

Yakamashii ! 
Noisy 

TJrusai I Urusai ! 

Troublesome troublesome 

Kusai I kusai I 
Smelly smelly 

yoshi nasai. 

Honourably abstaining deign 



Language. 



25 



It can't be helped. 

As quickly as possible. 

As early as possible. 

Is anything the matter ? 

Which is the best? 

How much for one ? 

How much per ri (2J miles) ? 

How much per head ? 

I don't want that. 

This is the one I want. 

It doesn't matter. 
I don't care. 

What a pity ! 

I have none at all. 

Has nobody come ? 

Can you ? 

I can. 

I can't. 

Can you go ? 

I can (go). 

I cannot (go). 

What is the reason ? 

You mustn't touch it. 

Give me one more (another). 

Please go first {apres vous). 

I should like to borrow it for a 
minute. 



Shikata ga rvai. 

Doing manner (nom.) isn't 

Narutake isoide. 

As... as possible hurrying 

Narutake hayaku. 
As... as possible quickly 

Do ka shimashita ka? 
Somehow has done ? 

Dotchi ga yoroshii ? 
Which (nom.) good 

Uitotsu ikura ? 
One how much 

Ichi-ri ikura ? 
One *ti how much 

Hitori-mae ikura ? 

One person front, how much 

Are tea iHmasen. 
That as for, enters not 

Kono ho ga irimasu. 
This side (nom.) enters 

Kamaimasen. 
Matters not 

Oshii koto desu ne! 

Regrettable fact, is, indeed 

Svkoshi mo nai. 
Little even isn't 

Dare mo konai ka? 
Anybody comes not ? 

Dekimasu ka ? 
Forthcomes (it) ? 

Dekimasu. 
Forthcomes 

Dekimasen. 
Forthcomes not 

Ikaremasu ka ? 
Can go ? 

Ikaremasu. 
Can go 

Ikaremasen. 
Cannot go. 

Do iu wake desu ? 
What say reason is 

Ijitcha ikenai. 

As-for-touching is-no-go 

Mo hitotsu kudasai. 
More one condescend 

Dozo o saki ye. 

Please honourable front to 

Chotto haishaku. 
Slightly borrowing 



26 



Introduction : — Language, 



Don't break it. 

You mustn't break it. 

It is your fault. 

It is not my fault. 

I am very glad to see you. 

Please give it to me. 

I am going out at about nine 
o'clock. 

What is the matter ? 
Look for it everywhere. 
How long will it take ? 
How much will it cost ? 
I want a piece of string. 
I have not yet decided. 
I only want one. 

And then 

It can't be found. 

Call him back. 

Which are yours ? 

Whose are these ? 

He said he'd come to-morrow. 

Will you guarantee it ? 



Kowashicha ikenai. 
As-for-breaking is-no-go 

Anata ga warui. 
You (nom.) bad 

Watakushi ga icarui n'ja nai. 
I (nom.) bad of isn't 

Yoku o ide nasaimashita. 
Well honourable exit have-deigned 

Kudasai. 
condescend 

Ku-ji goro ni de-kakemasu. 

Nine-hours about at go-out 

Do shimashita ka ? 
How has-done ? 

Yoku 
Well 



yoku 
well 



sagashite. 
seeking 

( Toki tea) dono kurai kakarimasu ? 
Time as for, what about costs 

{Kane wa) dono kurai kakarimasu? 
Money as for, what about costs 

Ito ico kudasai. 
String (accus.) condescend 

Mada kimemasen. 
Yet decided not 

Hitotsu de yoroshii. 
One by is good 

Sore kara 

That from 

Mi-tsukaranal. 
See fix cannot 



Yobi-modoshite 
Calling back 



kudasai, 
condescend 



Dochira ga anata 
Which (nom.) you 

Dare no desu ka? 
Who of is ? 

kuru to 
come that 

Uke-aimasu ka ? 
Guarantee ? 



desu ? 
is? 



Mybnichi 
To-morrow 



iimashtta. 
said 



n. 



AT AN INN. 



Which is the best inn ? 

Have you any rooms ? 
Have you any beer ? 



Yado wa, nani-ya 

Hotel as for, what-house 

yoroshii ka ? 
good ? 

Zashtki wa, arimasu ka? 
Room as for, is ? 

Biiru tea, arimasu ka? 



ga 
(nom.) 



Language. 



27 



This room will do. 

Can yon give us European food ? 

I suppose you haven't bedsteads, 

have you ? 
I don't "want a bedstead. 

Are there any mosquitoes here ? 



It is dreadfully hot. 
Please open the paper slides. 
Please shut the window. 
Bring some hot water. 

Bring some cold water. 
Where is the W. C? 

Please show me the way. 
Please bring a candle. 

Is the bath ready ? 

It is not ready yet. 

Isn't it ready yet ? 
When will it be ready ? 

As soon as it is ready. 

Please let me know when it is 
ready. 

All right, Sir. 

Please buy me five 10 sen post- 
age-stamps. 



Kono zashiki de yoroshii. 
This room by, good 

Yo-shoku ga dekimasu ka? 
Sea-food (nom.) forthcomes ? 

Xedai wa y arimasumai, ne? 
Bedstead as for, probably is not, eh ? 

Xedai tea, irimasen. 
Bedstead as for, enters not 

Kono hen 

This neighbourhood 



wa, 

as for, 



ka 
mosquito 



ga 
(nom.) 



imasu 
dwells 



ka? 



Atsukute, shi-yb ga nai. 
Hot being, way of doing (nom.) isn't 

Shoji ico akete kudasai. 

Paper slides (accus.) opening condescend 

Mado v:o shimete kudasai. 
Window (accus.) shutting condescend 

yu ico motte 

Honourable hot water (accus.) bearing 

koi. 

come 

Mizu motte koi. 

Cold water bearing come 

Benjo wa, dochira desu? 
W. C. as for, where is? 

Chotto annai shite kudasai 
Just guide doing condescend 

Bbsoku wo motte kite 

Candle (accus.) carrying coming 

kudasai. 
condescend 

Furo ga dekimashtta ka ? 
Bath (nom.) has forthcome ? 

Mada dekimasen. 
Still forthcomes not 

Mada dekimasen ka ? 

Itsu dekimasu ka ? 
When forthcomes ? 

Deki shidai. 

Forthcomes according 

Dekimashxtara, shirasMte 

When shall have forthcome, informing 

kudasai. 
condescend 

Kashxkomarimashxta . 
Have been reverential 

Jis-sen no 
Ten sen of 



(said only to 
superiors). 

yfibin-gitte go-mai 
postage-stamp five pieces 



katte kite kudasai. 
buying coming condescend 



28 



Introduction : — Language. 



And then please take these things 
away. 



Have the things come from the 
wash ? 

I am thirsty. 

Give me a glass of water. 
Please give me some more. 
I am hungry. 

I want something to eat. 
Please get it ready quickly. 

Anything will do. 

Do you want any more. 

No, thanks. 

And then please lay down the 
bedding. 

Please let me have moie quilts. 



There is a hole in the mosquito- 
net. 

I want to get shaved. Is there a 
barber here ? 



There is. 

Then send for him. 

I feel unwell. 

Is there a doctor here ? 



Sore kara, kore wo sagete 
That from, this (accus.) lowering 

kudasai. 
condescend 

Sentaku-mono ga dekita ka? 
Wash-things (nom.) have for thcome ? 

Nodo ga kawakimashtta. 
Throat (nom.) has dried 

Mizu wo ippai. 
Water (accus.) one-full 

Motto kudasai. 
More condescend 

naka ga 

Honourable inside (nom.) 

sukimashtta. 
has become empty 

Nani ka tabetai. 
Something want to eat 

shitaku wo hayaku 

Honourable preparations (accus.) quickly 

doka. 
please 

Nan de mo yoroshii. 
What by even good 

Motto agarimasu ka ? 
More ' take ? 

Mb takusan. 
Already plenty 

Sore kara, toko shiite kudasai. 
That from, bed spreading condescend 



Futon wo 

Quilt (accus.) 

kudasai. 
condescend 

Kay a ni, 

Mosquito-net in, 



motto 
more 



ana 
hole 



ga 
(nom.) 



shiite 
spreading 



arimasu. 



Hige 
Beard 



WO 
(accus.) 

ga, koko 
whereas, here 

arimasu ka ? 
is ? 



sotte moraitai 
shaving want to receive 

ni tokoya ga 
in barber (nom.) 



Qozaimasu (more polite than Ari- 
masu). 

Sonnara yonde koi. 
If so, calling come 

Kagen ga warui. 
State (nom.) bad 



Koko 
Here 



ni isha ga arimasu 
in doctor (nom.) is 



ka? 
? 



Language. 



29 



Please call my " boy." 

Please hurry him up. 
Please lend a hand here. 
Please post these (letters). 

Please light the lights. 

I start at 7 o'clock to-morrow 
morning. 



As I am starting early to-morrow, 
please wake me early. 



I want to be called at half past 5. 



I am going by the first train in 
the morning. 

At what o'clock does the first 
train start ? 

Please engage two coolies. 



no 
of 



boy wo 

boy (accus.) calling 



Please bring the bill. 



Please to accept this small sum 
as tea-money. 



Many thanks for the trouble you 
have taken. 



Is the luggage ready ? 



Watakushi 
I 
kudasai. 
condescend 

Saisoku shtte kudasai. 
Urgency doing condescend 

Te wo kashite kudasai. 
Hand (accus.) lending condescend 

Kono yubin wo dashtte 

This post (accus.) putting forth 

kudasai. 

condescend 

Akari wo tsukete kudasai. 
Light (accus.) fixing condescend 

Myb-asa sKichi-ji ni 

To-morrow morning seven-hours at 

shuttatsu shimasu. 
departure do 

Myo-asa hayaku tatsu karat 

To-morrow morning early start because, 

hayaku okoshite kudasai. 

early rousing 

Go-ji-han ni 

Five- hours-half, at 

tai. 
obtain 



condescend 

okoshite morai- 
rousing want-to- 



Ichi-ban-gisha de 
One-number-train by 



ikimasu. 
go 



Ichi-ban-gisha wa nanji desu ? 
One-number-train as for, what-hour is 

Ninsoku futari tanonde 

Coolie two people requesting 

kudasai. 
condescend 

Doka kanjo-gaki 

Please bill-writing 

kite kudasai). 

coming condescend 

Kore wa, sukoshi 
This as for, little 
o chadai 

honourable tea-price is 

Oki-ni o sewa ni 

Greatly honourable help to 

narimashita. 

have become 

Nimotsu no shitaku wa, yoroshii 
Luggage of preparation as for, good 
ka? 



ico (motte 
(accus.) carrying 



desu ga, — 
is although, — 
desu. 



Is nothing forgotten ? 



Wasure-mono wa nai ka ? 
Forgotten things as for, aren't ? 



30 



hiirodnction : — Language. 



Please order the jinrikisha. 



We will start as soon as every- 
thing is ready. 

It is time to start. 

We must not be late. 

It is so nasty I can't eat it. 

There are none anywhere. ) 

It is not to be found anywhere. J 

It is so hot I can't get into it. 

It is not hot enough. 

I want a jinrikisha. 

I am not going to buy anything. 

Where have you been ? 

(in scolding a servant for absence) 

What is this called in Japanese ? 

It is very inconvenient. 

According to circumstances. 

If it suits your convenience. 

I think that would be the most 
convenient. 

That is a different thing. ) 

It is a mistake. J 

Please dry this. 

Please clean the room. 

Will you change this five yen 
note ? 

Please sew this. 
I will go and see it. 



Kururna no shttaku wo, shite 
Jinrikisha of preparation (accus.) doing 

kudasai. 

condescend 

Shitaku shidai, de-kakemashb. 
preparation according will go forth 

Jikan ni narimashita. 
Hour to has become 

Osoku nam to ikenai. 
Late become if, is no go 

Mazukute taberaremasen. 
Being-nasty cannot-eat 

Doko ni mo, arimasen. 
Where in even is-not 

Atsukute hairemasen. 
Being-hot cannot-enter 

Kurukute ikenai. 
Being-tepid is no go 

Kuruma ga irimasu. 
Jinrikisha (nom.) is-necessary 

Nani-mo kaimasen. 
Anything buy-not 

Omae wa, doko ye itte ita? 
You as-for, where to going have been 

Mhon-go de, kore wa nan 
Japan-language in, this as-for, what 

to iimasu ? 

that say 
Yohodo futsugb desu. 
Plenty inconvenient is 

Tsugb shidai. 

Convenience according 

Go tsugb ga yokereba. 

August convenience (nom.) if-is-good 

Sono ho ga, tsugb ga 

That side as-for, convenience (nom.) 

yb gozaimashb. 
good will-probably-be 

Chigaimasu. 
(It) differs 

Kore wo hoshtte kudasai. 
This (accus.) drying condescend 

Soji shite kudasai. 

Cleansing doing condescend 

Kono go-yen satsu tori-kaete 
This five -yen bill changing 

kuremasu ka ? 
give ? 

Kore ico nutte kudasai. 
This (accus.) sewing condescend 

Mite kimashb. 
Looking will-come 



Language. 



31 



Please cool the beer. 

That is not enough. 

We will engage the whole (car, 

boat, etc.). 
I will go if it is fine. 

I will take my bath first and my 
food afterwards. 

I want to get my hair cut. 

Don't cut it too short. 

It is very uncomfortable. 

What are you looking for ? 

It is only a little way. 

It is dreadfully draughty. 

The fire has gone out; please 
bring some more charcoal. 



Please put out the light. 

You must not put out the light. 
Did any one call while I was out ? 
Put them separately. 



Bih^u wo hiyashite 
Beer (accus.) cooling 

Sore de tarimasen. 
That by suffices-not 



kudasai. 
condescend 



itashimasho. 
will-do 

ikimasho. 
will-go 

shokuji wa ato 
food as-for after 



Kai-kiri ni 

Buy-completing to 

Tenki nam. 

Fine-weather if-is 

Furo wa saki, 

Bath as-for before, 

ni shimasho. 

to will-do 

Kami wo hasande moraitai. 
Hair (accus.) cutting want to get 

Amari mijikaku kitcha ikenai. 
Too short as-for-cutting is-no-go 

Yohodo fujiyu desu. 
Very uncomfortable is 

Nani wo sagashxte iru ? 
What (accus.) seeking are 

Jlki soko desu. 
Soon there is 

Kaze ga haitte, komaru. 
Wind (nom.) entering am troubled 

Hi ga kieta kara, motto 
Fire (nom.) vanished because, more 

sumi wo motte kite 

charcoal (accus.) carrying coming 

o leave. 

honourably give 

Akari wo keshtte o 

Light (accus.) extinguishing honourably 

kure. 
give 

Akari wo keshicha ikemasen. 
Light (accus.) extinguishing is no go 

Busu ni y dare ka kimasen ka? 
Absence in somebody comes not ? 

Betsu-betsu ni shite kudasai. 

Separate separate in doing condescend 



ni. 

SHOPPING. 



I think I'll go out shopping. 
How much is it ? 
That is too dear. 



Kaimono ni de-kakemasho. 
Purchases to will probably go out 

Ikura desu ? 
How much is 

Sore wa takai. 
That as for, dear 



Introduction : — Language. 



You must go down a little in 

price. 
Haven't yon any a little cheaper ? 



How much does it all come to ? 
Have you change for a yen ? 

Please send them to the hotel. 
Haven't you got something new ? 



This is the better of the two. 
This is the one I want. 
What is this used for ? 



What is this made of ? 

I don't like it. 

Is there a cake-shop here ? 

How much for one ? 

I'll take all these ; please wrap 
them up in paper. 

Wrap them up separately. 
Are they all the same price ? 



Sukoshi o make 

Little honourably cheapening 

Mo chitto 



Still 



yasui 



no 



slightly 
nai ka ? 
aren't ? 
Mina de, ikura ni 
All by how much to 
Ichi-yen no tsuri 
One-yen of change 
ka? 



nasai. 
deign 

ga 



heap ones (nom.) 



narimasu ka ? 
becomes ? 



wa, 
as for 



anmasu 
is 



to 
ka 



Yado 
Hotel 
Nani 
Something 
ka? 
? 
Kono ho 
This side 

Kore wa, 
This as for 
ka? 
? 

Kore wa y 
This as for 
ka? 



todokete 

forwarding 

atarashii 

new 



kudasai. 
condescend 
mono 
thing 



anmasen 
isn't 



ga xx. 
(nom.) good 



nanx 
what 



nx 
to 



tsukaimasu 
employ 



nanx 
what 



de dekite xmasu 
by forthcoming is 



Kx ni irimasen. 

Spirit to enters-not 

Koko ni kwashi-ya arimasu ka? 

Here in cake-shop is ? 

Hitotsu xkura ? 

One how-much 
Kore dake kaimasu kara, kami 
This amount buy because, paper 

ni tsutsunde kudasai. 

in wrapping condescend 
Betsu betsu ni tsutsunde 

Separate separate in wrapping 

kudasaL 

condescend 
Mina do-ne desu ka ? 
All same-price is ? 



IV. 



ON THE ROAD. 



Which is the way to Kiga ? 



to goes 



Kiga ye xku 
Kiga 

de 
by 



michi 
road 



wa, 
as for, 



dochira 
which 



gozaimasu ? 
is 



Language. 



83 



Please tell me the -way. 

Go straight on. 

Where is the telegraph office ? 

Where is the ticket-office ? 



(Give me) one 1st class ticket to 
Nikko. 



wa, dochira 

as for, where 



Michi wo oshiete kudasai. 
Road (accus.) teaching condescend 

Massugu ni oide nasal 

Straight in honourable exit deign 

Denshin-kyoku 
Telegraph office 

desu ka ? 
is ? 

Kippu wo uru tokoro wa 
Ticket (accus.) sell place as for 

doko desu ka ? 
where is ? 

Nikko made, ittb ichi- 

Nikko till, first class one 





max. 






piece 




(Please book) this luggage for 
Nikkd. 


Kore dake no 
This only of 

Nikko made. 
Nikko till 


nimotsu wo 
luggage (accus.) 


How many hours does it take to 
get to Nagoya. 


Nagoya made, 
Nagoya till, 

kakarimasu ? 
lasts? 


nan-ji-kan 
what-hour-space 


mean to spend the night at 
Nagoya. 


Nagoya de, 
Nagoya at 


ippaku 
one-night's lodging 




sunt tsumori desu. 
do intention is 


When does the train for Nikko 
start ? 


Nikko-yuki no 
Nikko going of 


kisha wa, 
train as for, 



Where do we change trains ? 

I will rest a little. 

What is the name of that moun- 
tain? 

What is this place called ? 



Is this a Buddhist or a Shinto 
temple ? 



nan-doki ni demasu ka ? 
what hour at issues ? 

Doko de nori-kaemasu ka? 
Where at ride-change ? 

Sukoshi yasumimasho. 
Little will rest 



Ano yama 
That mountain 


wa, 
as for, 


nan 
what 


to 
that 


iimasu ka ? 
say ? 








Koko wa, 
Here as for, 


nan 
what 


to 
that 


iu 

say 


tokoro desu 
place is 


ka? 
? 






Kore wa, tera desu 
This as for, Buddh. temple is 


ka? 


yashiro desu ka ? 
Shinto* temple is ? 







34 



Introduction : — Language. 



How far is it from here to the 
next town ? 



I will lie down a bit, as I feel 
seasick. 



Will yon come with me ? 
Let ns go together. 
Let ns rest a little. 
I want to see the dancing. 
I don't want to see it. 
Is it mnch f nrther ? 
When will you come ? 
When will he come ? 
I have left it behind. 

What is there to see here ? 

Do you think we shall be in time ? 

Are you ready ? 

There is plenty of time. 

There isn't enough time. 

I am busy now ; come later. 

What is the fare ? 

Give them 10 sen each as a tip. 



Koko 
Here 

made, 
till 

kurai 
about 

Fune 
Ship 

chotto 
little 



kara, 
from, 



saki 
front 



no 
of 



n-su 
mile-number 



wa 
as for, 



shuku 
post-town 

dono 
what 



desu ? 



yoimashita 
have-got-tipsy 



kara, 
because, 



ka? 
? 

ka? 



nemashb. 
will-lie 

Issho ni o ide nasai. 

Together honourable exit deign 

Issho ni ikimashb ja nai 
Together will-go isn't it 

Chitto yasumimashb ja nai 
Little will-rest isn't it ? 

Odori wo mi-tai. 
Dance (accus.) want-to-see 

Mitaku nai. 
Want-to-see not 

Mada takusan arimasu ka ? 
Still much is ? 

Itsu o ide ni narimasu ka ? 

When honourable exit to become ? 

Itsu kimasu ka ? 
When comes ? 

Oite kimashtta or 
Leaving have- come 

kimashtta. 

have-come 

Koko de mini 
Here at see 

nan desu ka ? 
what are ? 

Ma ni aimasho ka? 
Time to shall meet ? 

Mb yoroshii ka ? 
Already all right ? 

Ma ni aimasu. 
Time to meets 

Ma ni aimasen. 
Time to meets-not 

Ima isogashii kara, nochi-hodo 
Now busy because, afterwards 

irasshai. 
deign-to-come 

Chinsen wa, 
as for, 



Wasurete 
Forgetting 



mono wa, 
things as for 



Fare 

Mei-mei 
Each 

yatte 
giving 



n% 
to, 

kudasai. 
condescend 



ikura ? 
how much 

sakate wo jis-sea 
tip (accus.) ten sen 



Tlie Shinto Religion. 



35 



Kono ame de shiyo ga nai 
This rain by way- to- do (no hi.) isn't 

Chika-mishi arimasen ka r 
Near-road isn't ? 

Arukimasho. 

Empo desu ka ? 
Far is ? 

Zutsu shimasu. 
Headache does 

Ha ga itai. 
Tooth (nom.) painful 

Hi™ wa, doko de tabemasho ka ? 
Noon as for, where at shall eat ? 

Futte mo tette mo ikimasu. 
Raining even, shining even, I go 

Put me down (said to a jinriki-man) . Orose ! 

Let down 

Chotto ukagaimasu. 
Little (I) enquire 

Which is the best inn at Minobu ? Minobu wa, yado wa, dochira 

Minobu as for inn as for where 

ga yoroshiu gozaimasy ? 
(nom.) good is? 

Isn't there any inn in this village ? Kono mura wa, yadoya wa 

This village as for inn as for 

arimasen ka ? 
isn't ? 



It is too wet. 

Isn't there a short cut ? 

I would rather walk. 
Is it far? 

I have a headache. 

I have a toothache. 

"Where can we stop for lunch ? 

I shall go whether it rains or not. 



I should like to enquire. 



19. — The Shinto Religion ; Ryobu and Puke Shinto. 

The Japanese have two religions, Shinto, and Buddhism,— the former 
indigenous, the latter imported from India via China and Korea; but 
it must not be supposed that the nation is therefore divided into two 
distinct sections, each professing to observe one of these exclusively. 
On the contrary, the two are so throughly interfused in practice, that the 
number of pure Shintoists and pure Buddhists must be extremely small. 
The only exception is afforded by the province of Satsuma, from which the 
Buddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of their number 
betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyoshi. Every Japan- 
nese from his birth is placed by his parents under the protection of some 
Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, while the funeral rites are 
generally conducted according to the ceremonial of the Buddhist sect to 
which his family belongs. It is only in recent years that burial according 
to the ancient ritual of the Shintoists has been revived, after almost total 
disuse during some twelve centuries. This apparently anomalous con- 
dition of things is to be explained by the fact that the Shinto religion 
demands little more of its adherents than a visit to the local temple on the 
occasion of the annual festival, and does not profess to teach any theory 
of the destiny of man, or of moral duty, thus leaving the greater part of 
the field free to the priests of Buddha, with their apparatus of theological 
dogma aided by splendid rites and gorgeous decorations. Tolerant on 
principle, Buddhism admitted the deities of the indigenous belief into its 



36 Introduction: — The Shinto Religion. 

pantheon, as it had previously received Hindu deities and other mytholo- 
gical beings. In most cases it was assumed that the native Shinto gods 
(Kami) were merely avatars of some Buddhist deity (Hotoke); and thus it 
was possible for those who became converts to the foreign doctrine to 
continue to believe in and offer up prayers to their ancient gods as before. 

Shinto is a compound of nature-worship and ancestor-worship. It 
has gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, food, and pesti- 
lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, certain 
rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred myriads of deities in 
all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant Goddess of the Sun, 
born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, while from his 
right eye was produced the God of the Moon, and from his nose the 
violent God Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to various indignities and 
was chastised accordingly. The Sun-Goddess was the ancestress of the 
line of heaven-descended Mikados, who have reigned in unbroken succes- 
sion from the beginning of the world, and are themselves gods upon 
earth. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured above all the rest, her shrine 
at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrines hold other gods, the 
deified ghosts of princes and heroes of old, some commanding a wide 
popularity, others known only to narrow local fame, most of them tended 
by hereditary families of priests believed to be lineal descendants either 
of the god himself or of his chief servant. From time to time new 
names are added to the pantheon. The late reign witnessed several 
instances of such apotheosis. Not a few deities have been traced back 
to a phallic origin. Even down to five-and-twenty years ago, shrines 
adorned with emblems of that cult were scattered about the country, and 
processions and other ceremonies were performed in their honour; but 
this naturalistic worship has now vanished under the influence of modern 
European ideas. 

Shinto has scarcely any regular services in which the people take 
part, and its priests (kannushi) are not distinguishable by their appearance 
from ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in presenting the morning 
and evening offerings do they wear a peculiar dress, which consists of 
a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a 
girdle, and sometimes a black cap bound round the head with a broad 
white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and 
retain the option of adopting another career. At some temples young 
girls perform pantomimic dances which are known as kagura, and assist 
in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are under no 
vows, and marry as a matter of course. The services consist in the pre- 
sentation of small trays of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, rice-beer, and the 
flesh of birds and animals, and in the recital of certain formal addresses 
(norito), partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style 
of composition employed is that of a very remote period, and would not 
be understood by the common people, even if the latter were in the 
habit of taking any part in the ritual. With moral teaching, Shinto does 
not profess to concern itself. "Follow your natural impulses, and obey 
the Mikado's decrees :" — such is the sum of its theory of human duty. 
Preaching forms no part of its institutions, nor are the rewards and 
punishments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The 
continued existence of the dead is believed in ; but whether it is a condi- 
tion of joy or pain, is nowhere declared. 

Shin-to is a Chinese word meaning " the Way of the Gods," and was 
first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism, to distinguish the native 
beliefs and jflractices from those of the Indian religion. Shinto has several 



The Shinto Religion. 37 

sects, — the Honkyoku, the Kurozumi Kyo, etc. ; but these divisions do not 
obtrude themselves on public notice. Practically the cult may be regarded 
as one and homogeneous. 

The architecture of Shinto temples is extremely simple, and the mate- 
rial used is plain white wood with a thatch of chamaecyparis bark. The 
annexed plan of the Great Temple of Izumo (Izumo no Oyashiro), 
taken from a drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Japanese paper, 
will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto temples, 
however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the Empire. 
We find then : — 

1. The Main Shrine (honsha or hondeyi), which is divided into two 
chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god (mi-tama- 
shlro), — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object,— and is 
always kept closed, while in the ante-chamber stands a wand from which 
depend strips of white paper (gohei) intended as substitutes for the cloth 
offerings of ancient times. The mirror which is seen in front of not a 
few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has 
nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed. 

2. An Oratory (haiden) in front of the main building, with which it 
is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temple, connected by 

3. A Corridor or Gallery (ai-no-ma). A gong often hangs over the 
entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention of the 
god, and beneath stands a large box to receive contributions. 

4. A Cistern (mi-tarashi), at which to wash the hands before prayer. 

5. A low Wall, or rather Fence (tama-gaki, lit. jewel hedge), enclosing 
the chief temple buildings. 

6. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards, and therefore 
termed ita-gaki. 

7. A peculiar Gateway (torii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some- 
times there are several of these gateways. Their origin and signification 
are alike unknown. The presence of the torii is the easiest sign whereby 
to distinguish a Shinto from a Buddhist temple. 

8. A Temple Office (shamusho), where the business of the temple is 
transacted, and where some of the priests often reside. 

9. Secondary Shrines (sessha or massha) scattered about the grounds, 
and dedicated, not to the deity worshipped at the main shrine, but to 
other members of the crowded pantheon. 

10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent. 

11. A Treasure-house (hbzb). 

12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinsenjb). 

13. A Gallery (kwairb). 

14. A Dancing-stage (bungaku-dai). A more usual form of this is the 
kagura-db, or stage for the performance of the kagura dance. 

15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jimme), usually an 
albino. 

16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing. 

17. Gates. 

Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy well 
or stone, a tree of odd shape or unusual size, the image of the bull on 
which the god Tenjin rode, etc. 

The curiously projecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the honsha 
are termed chigi. The cigar-shaped logs are termed katsuogi. Both these 
ornaments are derived from the architecture of the primitive Japanese 
hut, the katsuogi having anciently served to keep in place the two trunks 
forming the ridge of the roof. The temple grounds are usually surrounded 



38 Introduction: — The Shinto Religion. 

by a grove of trees, the most common among which is the cryptomeria, a 
Useful timber tree. These plantations were originally intended to supply 
materials for the repair or re-erection of the buildings ; but in many cases 
their great antiquity causes a sacred character to be attributed to the 
oldest trees, which are surrounded by a fillet of straw rope, as if to show 
that they are tenanted by a divine spirit. 

The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niches right and left 
of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called 
Zuijin, or "Attendants," more popularly Ya-daijin, or "Ministers with 
Arrows." The stone figures of dogs,— or lions, as some suppose them to 
be, — which are often found in temple grounds, are called Ama-inu and 
Koma-inu, lit. " the Heavenly Dog " and " the Korean Dog." They are 
credited with the power of driving ofr" demons. 

Often a large straw-rope, peculiarly twisted (shime-nawa) is to be 
seen before the entrance to a Shinto shrine, and sometimes in other 
places. This, too, is credited with power to avert evil, more especially 
small-pox, cholera, and other infectious diseases. 

Since the China war of 1894-5, and especially since the Russian war of 
1904-5, big guns and other trophies of war have been distributed to all 
the important Shinto shrines with the object of identifying religion with 
patriotism. 

For the go-hei, or paper emblems, see Glossary at the end of this 
Introduction. 

The distinction between what are termed respectively Ryobu and Pure 
Shinto arose from the fact that the doctrines of metempsychosis and 
universal perfectibility taught by Buddhism naturally made it tolerant of 
other creeds, and willing to afford hospitality to their gods in its own 
pantheon. Hence the early Buddhist teachers of the Japanese nation 
were led to regard the aboriginal Shinto gods and goddesses as incarnations 
or avatars —the Japanese term is gongen, signifying literally " temporary 
manifestations " — of some of the many myriads of Buddhas. Thus with 
an added tincture of Chinese philosophy, was formed a mixed system, 
known as Ryobu Shinto or Shinbutsu Konlco, which lasted throughout the 
Middle Ages. For a thousand years the service of most of the Shinto 
temples, except Ise and Izumo, was performed by Buddhist priests, and 
the temple architecture was deeply affected by Buddhist (that is, Indian) 
principles, — witness the elaborate carvings, the form of the two-storied 
Sammon, or outer gate, and even the pagoda itself, which, though essen- 
tially Buddhistic, was found in the most popular Shinto shrines. In 
several cases, for instance, Kompira and Hachiman, the so-called Shinto 
deifies worshipped were probably unknown in pre-Buddhist ages, and 
owed their origin to priestly ingenuity. This curious state of things began 
to totter more than a century ago, under the attacks of a school of 
enthusiastically patriotic literati who revived the ancient traditions of 
"pure Shinto." When the revolution of 1868 occurred, and restored the 
Mikado's authority, these old traditions, amongst which the divine right of 
the sovereign was one of the most important, became paramount. It was 
for a time hoped that Buddhism might be suppressed, and Shinto estab- 
lished as the sole national religion ; but the extreme party was in the end 
not allowed to have its way. The reform was limited to the complete 
separation of the two religions, and the Buddhist priests were expelled 
from the Shinto temples, which they had so long " contaminated " by their 
sway. Ail buildings, such as pagodas, belfries, and richly decorated 
shrines, that did not properly belong to the Shinto establishment were 
removed, many precious structures being thus destroyed by " purifying " 



Japanese Buddhism. 39 

zeal. In consequence of all this, the modern visitor to Japan loses 
much that delighted the eyes of those who came fifty years ago. To 
quote but a single example, the temple of Hachiman at Kamakura has 
been despoiled of its chief beauty. On the other hand, he has better 
opportunities for familiarising himself with the style of "pure Shinto," 
which, if severely simple, is at least unique, being one of the few things 
Japanese not borrowed from China. 

Those desiring fuller information on Japan's native religion will find 
it in Mr. W. G. Aston's classic work, entitled Shinto : the Way of the Gods. 

20. — Japanese Buddhism. 

Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the 
6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been 
erected about A. D. 581 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of Japa- 
nese Buddhism was Shotoku Taishi, prince regent under the Empress Suiko 
(A.D.593-621),to whose time the foundation of many of the most celebrated 
temples is traced. Thenceforward, though Shinto was never entirely sup- 
pressed, Buddhism became for centuries the popular national religion, 
appealing as it did to the deepest instincts of the human heart, both by its 
doctrine and by its ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. 
Buddhism was adopted by the very Mikados, descendants of the Shinto 
Goddess of the sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries Korean and 
Chinese monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much 
as Christian missionaries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, 
it became more usual for the Japanese monks to go to China, in order to 
study the doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head. 
From these historical circumstances results the general adhesion of the 
Japanese Buddhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle " school 
of that religion (Sanskrit, Mahay una ; Jap. Daijo), in whose teachings the 
simple morality of Southern Buddhism, as practised in Ceylon and Siam, 
is overlaid with many mystical and ceremonial observances. It must not 
be supposed, however, that all Japanese Buddhists agree among them- 
selves. Buddhism was already over a thousand years old when introduced 
into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, was split into 
numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quarrels took new root on Japanese 
soil. Some of the Chinese sects of that early day still survive ; such are 
the Tendai and the Shingon. Others, notably the Nichiren and Shin sects, 
are later Japanese developments. The following are the chief denomina- 
tions existing at the present day, classed in the order of their numerical 
importance : — 

(Rinmi (10 sub-sects). 
Soto. 
Obaku. 
Shin or Monto (10 sub-sects). 
Shingon (2 sub-sects). 
Jodo (2 sub-sects). 
Xichiren or Hokke (8 sub-sects). 
Tendai (3 sub-sects). 

The points in dispute between the sects are highly metaphysical and 
technical,— so much so that Sir Ernest Satow, speaking of the Shingon 
sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to comprehend, 
and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another sect he 



40 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. 

tells us that its "highest truths are considered to be incomprehensible, 
except to those who have attained to Buddhaship."* 

Under these circumstances, the general reader will perhaps do best 
simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts: — that 
Buddhism arose in India, some say in the 7th, others in the 11th, century 
before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka Muni, a prince of 
the blood royal, who, disenchanted first of worldly pleasures and then of 
the austerities which he practised for long years in the Himalayan 
wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denying anchorites of 
his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth that all happiness 
and salvation come from within, — come from the recognition of the 
impermanence of all phenomena, from the extinction of desire which 
is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of all sorrow and 
imperfection. Asceticism still reigned supreme; but it was asceticism 
rather of the mind than of outward observances, and its ultimate object 
was absorption into Nirvana, which some interpret to mean annihilation, 
while others describe it as a state in which the thinking substance, after 
numerous transmigrations and progressive sanctification, attains to 
perfect beatitude in serene tranquility. Neither in China nor in Japan 
has practical Buddhism been able to maintain itself at these philosophic 
heights; but by the aid of hoben, or pious devices, the priesthood has 
played into the hands of popular superstition. Here as elsewhere there 
have been evolved charms, amulets, pilgrimages, and gorgeous temple 
services, in which people worship not only the Buddha who was himself 
an agnostic, but his disciples and even such abstractions as Amida, (p. 43) 
which are mistaken for actual divine personages. 

Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Xkegami near 
Tokyo, which may be regarded as typical of Japanese Buddhist architec- 
ture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, forming a contrast 
to the primitive thatch of Shinto places of worship. The chief features 
are as follows : 

1. The Sammon, or two-storied Gate, at the entrance to the temple 
enclosure. 

2. The Ema-ddy or Ex-voto Hall, also called Gaku-do. 

* The following may serve as a specimen of the difficulties to be encountered in 
this study: — "The doctrine of the sects is compared to a piece of cloth, in which the 
teaching of Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of the 
individual, corrected by the opinion of other monks, is the woof. It is held that 
there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called iShin-gyo, suggested by the 
words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to be in 
harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in 
one central truth, namely that Nirvana is the final result of existence, a state in 
which the thinking substance, while remaining individual, is unaffected by anything 
external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the 
name of Mu-i (Asamskr/ta) is given, signifying absolute, unconditioned existence. 
When this is spoken of as annihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the 
substance, that is meant. Pushed to its logical result, this would appear to the 
ignorant (i.e. the unregenerate) to amount to the same thing as non-existence; but 
here we are encountered by one of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all 
religious belief, and which must be accepted without questioning, if there is to be 
any spiritual religion at all. A follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object 
that this is an ' illegitimate symbolical conception." 

" Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by hoben, that is, by the presenta- 
tion of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects Shaka, 
quitting the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed 
the truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their proper 
order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the in- 
ferior intelligence can only arrive at the condition after 100 Kalpas, or periods of 
time transcending calculation." — (Satow.) 



*L 



m 



Japanese Buddhism. 



41 



3. The Shbrb, or Belfry. 

4. The Rondo, or Main Temple. (Here called Shaka-db, because 
devoted to Shaka). 

5. The Shoshi-db, or Founder's Hall, dedicated to Nichiren, the 
founder of the sect to which this temple belongs. 

6. The Taho-to, or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary, containing portions of 
Nichiren' s body, hence also called Eotsu-db, or Hall of the Bones. 

7. The Kinzb, or Revolving Library, holding a complete copy of the 
extremely voluminous Buddhist Scriptures. 

8. The Mojo, also called Sho-in or Zashiki, the Priests' Apartments. 

9. The Kyaku-den, or Reception Rooms. 

10. The Hbzb, or Treasure-house. 

11. The Dai-dokoro, or Kitchen. 

12. The Chbzu-bachi, or Cistern for washing the hands before worship. 

13. The Drum-tower (Koro). 

14. The Pagoda [G-o-jii no to). 

15. Stone Lantern {Ishi-dbrb), presented as offerings. 

All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall, and very few possess a 
Taho-to or a Einzb. In the temples of the Monto or Hongwanji sect, 
which almost always comprise two principal edifices, the larger of the two 
unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and Founder's Hall, while 
the lesser, with which it is connected by a covered gallery, is sometimes 
specially dedicated to Amida, the deity chiefly worshipped by this sect, 
and is sometimes used for preaching sermons in, whence the name of 
Jiki-db, or Refectory, alluding to the idea that sermons are food for the 
soul. A set of Buddhist buildings, with pagoda, belfry, etc., all complete, 
is often called a Shichi-db Garan. The termi- 
nation ji, which occurs in so many temple 
names, means "Buddhist temple" in Chinese; 
the native Japanese word is tera. Most Bud- 
dhist temples have alternative names ending in 
san and in. 

Many temples have what is called an Oku- 
no-in, — a Holy of Holies, so to say, which is 
generally situated behind the main shrine, and 
often a long way up the mountain at whose foot 
S^Z the other temple buildings cluster. Most Oku- 
z^ftL no-in are less highly ornamented than the 
temples to which they belong ; some indeed are 
mere sheds. Where Shinto influence has pre- 
vailed, the Oku-no-in is termed Oku-sha. Some- 
times there is an intermediate shrine called 
Chit-in or Chil-sha. 

The ceremony of throwing open to the gaze 
of worshippers the shrine which holds the image 
of the patron saint is called Eai-cho, and is 
usually accompanied by a short service. Many 
sacred images have more than one abode ; when 
removed at stated intervals, their resting-places 
on the way are termed O-Tabisho. Pictures of 
the god, together with holy inscriptions {ofuda) 
and charms (rnamori), are sold at many temples. 
The specimens here figured are from the great shrine of Fudo 
at Narita. Sometimes cheap miniature reprintg of Buddhist 







BUDDHIST TEMPLE OF IKEGAMI 



m 




42 



Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. 



sutras are offered for sale, also bundles of straws or sticks used as counters 
by those performing what is termed the Hyaku-do, that is the pious act 
of walking up and down the temple court a hundred times, etc., etc. 
The little wisps of paper often to be seen on the grating of minor shrines 
are tied there by devotees in token of a vow or a wish, mostly connected 
with the tender passion. The flocks of doves seen fluttering about many 
temple courts are not objects of worship. They simply take up their home 
where piety secures them from molestation. 

An object frequently seen in 
Budhhist temple grounds is the sotoha 
or toba, a corruption of the Sanskrit 
stupa ("tope"), which was originally 
a memorial erected over the remains 
of an Indian saint. In Japan it as- 
sumes two forms, one being a thin 
stick, notched and often inscribed 
with Sanskrit characters, the other a 
stone monument in common use as 
a grave-stone, where the component 
elements of the structure are more 
clearly indicated. They are the ball, 
crescent, pyramid, sphere, and cube, 
symbolising respectively Ether, Air, 
Fire, Water, and Earth. One glance 
at a sotoba is said to ensure the 
forgiveness of all sins. 

The way up to temples or sacred 
mountains is frequently marked by 
oblong stones, like mile-stones, at the 
interval of a cho, inscribed as fol- 
laws : — PTf (or — T), one cho ; zlPTf, 
two clib, etc. Stones with inscriptions, 
for which wooden boards are often 
substituted, also serve to commemo- 
rate gifts of money to the temple, or 
of trees to ornament the grounds. Irregularly shaped slabs of stone are 
much prized by the Japanese, who use them as monumental tablets. 

All the famous holy places have subsidiary or representative temples 
(utsushi or de-bari) in various parts of the empire, for the convenience of 
those worshippers who cannot make the actual pilgrimage. The shrine 
of the Narita Fudd at Asakusa in Tokyo is a familar example. 

Finally, a broad distinction can be drawn between those temples 
which are resorted to by worshipping crowds, such as Kiyomizu at Ky5to, 
the Asakusa temple at Tokyo, and the various Hongwanji on the one 
hand, and on the other those which like the Shiba temples at Tokyo, are 
privately maintained. These last are often beautiful specimens of art ; 
but it is in the former class that the religious life of the people can be 
best studied. 

One, alas ! of the characteristic features of the Buddhist temples of 
to-day is the decay into which most of them have fallen, not because of 
any general conversion to Christianity, but owing to the disendowment 
of the priesthood and the materialistic tendencies of the age. The wooden 
architecture of Japan, so attractive when fresh, at once becomes shabby 
and ramshackle under neglect,— not venerable like the stone ruins of 
Europe. 




THE SOTOBA 

(in its two shapes) 



Gods and Goddesses. 



43 



21. — List of Gods and Goddesses. 



The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto. 
They are placed together in one list, because throughout Japanese history 
there has been more or less confusion between the two religions : — 

Aizen myo-o, a deity represented with a fierce expression, a naming 
halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless, he is popularly regarded as 
the God of Love. Anderson describes him as "a transformation of 
Atchala the Insatiable." : 

Ama-tebasu, lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Goddess. 
Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, wiien the latter was 
performing his ablutions on returning from a visit to his dead wife 
Izanami in Hades, the Sun-Goddess was herself the ancestress of the 
Imperial Family of Japan. The most striking episode in her legend is 
that in which she is insulted by her brother Susa-no-o, and retires in 
high dudgeon to a cavern, thus plunging the whole world in darkness. 
All the other gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's mouth, with 
music and dancing. At length curiosity 
lures her to the door, and she is finally 
enticed out by the sight of her own fair 
image in a mirror, which one of the gods 
pushes towards her. The origin of the 
sacred dances called kagura is traced to 
this incident by the native literati. Other 
names under which the Sun- Goddess is 
known are Shimmei, Ten Shoko Daijin, and 
Daijingil. 

Amida (Sanskrit, AmUdbha), a powerful 
deity dwelling in a lovely paradise to the 
west. Originally Amida was an abstrac- 
tion, — the ideal of boundless light. His 
image may generally be recognised by the 
hands lying on the lap, with the thumbs 
placed end to end. Yery often, too, the halo 
{goko) forms a background, not only to 
the head but to the entire body, and is then 
termed funa-goko, from its resemblance in 
shape to a boat. The spot on the forehead 
is emblematical of wisdom. The great 
image (Daibutsu) at Kamakura represents 
this deity. Kwannon and Daiseishi are 
often represented as followers of Amida. — 
The name Amida is sometimes shortened amida. 

to Mida. 

Anan (Sanskrit, Ananda), one of Buddha's cousins and earliest 
converts. He is often called Tamon (^pfl), lit. "hearing much," on 
account of his extensive knowledge and wonderful memory,— a name which 
is also applied to Bishamon. 

Atago, a god worshipped as the protector of towns against fire. He 
is an avatar of the Creatress Izanami and of her last-born child Ho-musubi 
(also called Kagu-tsuchi), the Shinto god of fire, whose entry into the world 
caused her death. 

Benten, or Benzaiten, one of the Seven Deities of Luck. She is 
often represented riding on a serpent or dragon, whence perhaps the 




u 



Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 




sacred character attributed in many localities to snakes. Benten's shrines 
are mostly situated on islands. 

Binzuru, originally one of the 
"Sixteen Bakan," was expelled from 
their number for haying violated his 
yow of chastity by remarking upon 
the beauty of a female, whence the 
usual situation of his image outside the 
sa actum. It is also said that Buddha 
conferred on him the power to cure all 
human ills. For this reason, believers 
rub the image of Binzuru on that part 
which may be causing them pain in 
their own bodies, and then rub them- 
selves in the hope of obtaining relief ; 
and thus it comes about that such 
images are often found with the limbs 
partly worn away and the features 
nearly obliterated. Binzuru is a high- 
ly popular object of worship with the 
lower classes., and his image is often to 
be seen adorned by his devotees with a 
red or yellow cotton hood, a bib, and 
mittens. 

Bishamon (Sanskrit, Vaisramana), 
explained in Eitel's Hand-book of Chi- 
nese Buddhism as the God of Wealth, 
has been adopted by the Japanese as 
one of their Seven Gods of Luck, 
with the special characteristic of im- . 
personating war. Hence he is repre- 
sented as clad in armour and bearing a spear, as well as a toy pagoda. 
Bonten, Brahma. 

Bosatsu (Sanskrit, Bodhisattva), the general title of a large class of 
Buddhist saints, who have only to pass through one more human existence 
before attaining to Buddhahood. The "Twenty-Five Bosatsu" [Ni-ju-go 
Bosatsu), specially worshipped and frequently represented in art, are 
supposed to be sent by Buddha himself as guardian spirits to watch over 
earnest believers. The list includes Kwannon, Daiseishi, Fugen, Kokuzo, 
and a number of less well-known divinities. 
Buddha, see Shaka-Muni. 

Daikoku, the God of Wealth, may be known by his rice-bales. 
Popular Japanese art, which exhibits little awe of things divine, represents 
these bales being nibbled at by a rat. 

Dainichi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Vdirotchana Tathagata) is one of the 
persons of the Triratna, or Buddhist Trinity, the personification of wisdom 
and of absolute purity. He is popularly confounded with Fudo, the 
images of the two being difficult to distinguish. 

Daiseishi or Seishi, a Bosatsu belonging to the retinue of Amida. 
Daishi, a title which is applied to many Buddhist abbots and saints. 
It means either " Great Teacher," or " Perfected Saint " (Sanskrit Maha- 
sattva), according to the Chinese characters used to write it. 
Dosojin, the God of Boads. 

Ebisu, one of the Gods of Luck, is the patron of honest labour. He 
bears in his hand a fishing-rod and a tai-fish. 



BINZURU. 



Gods and Goddesses. 



45 



Emma-O (Sanskrit, Yama-raja), the regent of the Buddhist hells. 
He may be known by his cap resembling a judge's beret, and by the huge 




BMMA-O, 



mace in his right hand. Before him often sit two myrmidons, one of 
whom holds a pen to write down the sins of human beings, while the 
other reads out the list of their offences from a scroll. 

Fu-Daishi, a deified Chinese priest of the 6th century, is represented 
in art seated between his two sons Fuken and Fujo, who clap their hands 
and laugh, and hence are popularly known as Warai-botoke, or the Laugh- 
ing Buddhas. Fu-Daishi is the reputed inventor of the Rinzd, or Revolving 
Library, which is attached to some Buddhist temples. It is a receptacle 
large enough to hold a complete collection of the Buddhist scriptures, but 
turning so easily on a pivot as to be readily made to revolve by one 
vigorous push. A native authority says : " Owing to the voluminousness 
of the sutras,— 6,771 volumes, — it is difficult for any single individual to 
read them through. But a degree of merit equal to that accruing to him 
who should have perused the entire canon, may be obtained by those who 
will cause this Library to revolve three times on its axis ; and moreover 
long life, prosperity, and the avoidance of all misfortune shall be their 
reward." 



46 



Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 




FUDO 
WITH SEITAKA AND KONGAEA DOJI. 



Fudo (Sanskrit, Achala). Much 
obscurity hangs over the origin and 
attributes of this popular divinity. 
According to Monier Williams, 
Achala, which means "immovable." 
(Fudo sflg)] translates this meaning 
exactly), is a name of the Brahmini- 
cal god Siva and of the first of the 
nine deified persons called "White 
Balas" among the Jainas. Satow 
says: — "Fudo (Akshara) is identified 
with Dainichi (Yairofcana), the God 
of Wisdom, which quality is sym- 
bolised by the flames which surround 
him : it is a common error to suppose 
that he is the God of Fire. According 
to the popular view, the sharp sword 
which he grasps in the right hand 
is to frighten evil-doers, while in his 
left hand he holds a rope to bind 
them with." — Fudo is generally rep- 
resented in art attended by his two 
chief followers, Seitaka Dqji and 
Kongara Doji. 

Fugen (Sanskrit, Samantabhadra) 
is the special divine patron of those 
who practise the Hokke-zammai, a 
species of ecstatic meditation. His 
image is generally seated on the 
right hand of Shaka. 

Fukueokuju, one of the Gods of 
Luck, is distinguished by a preter- 
naturally long head, and typifies 
longevity and wisdom. 

Go-chi Nyoeai, the Five Bud- 
dhas of Contemplation or of Wisdom, 
viz., Yakushi, Taho, Dainichi, Ashu- 
ku, and Shaka. But some authori- 
ties make a different enumeration. 

Gongen. This is not the name 
of any special divinity, but a general 
term used in Byobu Shinto (see p. 
38) to denote such Shinto gods as 
are considered to be "temporary 
manifestations," that is, avatars or 
incarnations of Buddhas. It is, 
however, applied with special fre- 
quency to Ieyasu, the deified founder 
of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns, 
who is the Gongen Sama, that is, 
Lord Gongen par excellence. 

Gwakko Bosatsu, a Buddhist 
lunar deity. 

Hachiman, the Chinese_ name 
under which the Emperor Ojin is 



Gods and Goddesses. 



47 



worshipped as the God of War, the Japanese equivalent being Yawata. 
The reason for this particular form of apotheosis is not apparent, as no 
warlike exploits are recounted of the monarch in question. Perhaps it 
may be owing to the tradition that his mother, the Empress Jingo, 
carried him for three years in her womb whilst making her celebrated 
raid upon Korea. Another explanation, suggested by Sir Ernest Satow, 
is that his high position in the pantheon resulted from the fact of his 
having been the patron of the powerful and warlike Minamoto family. 

Hotei, one of the Seven Gods of Luck, typifies contentment and good- 
nature. He is represented in art with an enormous naked abdomen. 

Hotoke, the general name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or perfected 
saints of popular Buddhism. The dead are also often spoken of as 
hotoke. 

Ida Ten (Sanskrit, Veda Raja), a protector of Buddhism, generally 

represented as a strong and 
handsome youth. 

Inaei, the Goddess of Rice, 
also called Uga-no-Mitama. The 
fox, whose image is always found 
in her temples, is her servant or 
messenger, though the more igno- 
rant worshippers take that wily 
beast for the goddess herself. 
There is some confusion with 
regard to the sex of Inari, who 
is occasionally represented as a 
bearded man. 

Izanagi and Izanami, the 
Creator and Creatress of Japan. 




The curious though indelicate legend 
of their courtship, the striking legend 
of the descent of Izanagi into Hades 
to visit Izanami after the latter' s 
death and burial, and the account of 
Izanagi' s lustrations, will be found in 
pp. 18-43 of the translation of the 
Kojiki, forming the Supplement to 
Vol. X. of the Transactions of the 
Asiatic Society of Japan. 

Jizo (Sanskrit, Kshitigarbha), the 
compassionate Buddhist helper of 
those who are in trouble. He is the 
patron of travellers, of pregnant wo- 
men, and of children. His image is 
often heaped with pebbles, which serve 
in the other world to relieve the labours 
of the young who have been robbed of 
their garments by the hag named Sho- 
zuka-no-Baba, and then set by her 
to perform the endless task of piling up 
stones on the bank of Sai-no-kawara, 
the Buddhist Styx. Jizo is represented 
as a shaven priest with a benevolent 




48 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 

countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a staff with metal 
rings (shakujo) His stone image is found more frequently than that 
of any other object of worship throughout the empire. It need scarcely 
be said that the resemblance in sound between the names Jizb and Jesus 
is quite fortuitous. 

Jubojin, one of the Gods of Luck, often represented as accompanied 
by a stag and a crane. 

Kami, a general name for all Shinto gods and goddesses. 
Kasho (Sanskrit, Kasyapa), one of Buddha's foremost disciples. He 
is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in consequence whereof his 
body became radiant like gold. 

Kishi Bojin, the Indian goddess Hariti or Ariti, was originally a 
woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at Rajagriha, the 
metropolis of Buddhism, was born again as a demon and gave birth to five 
hundred children, one of whom she was bound to devour every day. She 
was converted by Buddha, and entered a nunnery. The Japanese wor- 
ship her as the protectress of children. She is represented as a beauti- 
ful woman, carrying a child, and holding a pomegranate in one hand. 
The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are 
marked with the crest of the pomegranate. This emblem illustrates the 
curious turn sometimes taken by popular legend. The red hue of the 
pomegranate might suggest to naive fancy red blood, and hence human 
flesh. But we are told that Buddha cured the woman of cannibalism 
by a diet of pomegranates, because that fruit resembles human flesh in 
taste. The offerings brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such 
as may well touch any heart, — the dresses, dolls, and other mementoes of 
their lost darlings. 

Kokuzo Bosatstj (Sanskrit, Akasha Bodhisattva), an infinitely wise 
female saint who dwells in space. 

Kompiea (Sanskrit, Kumbhira). Much obscurity shrouds the origin 
and nature of this highly popular divinity. Some trace in him a god of 
mountains, charged with the protection of the royal palace. According to 
some he is a demon, the crocodile or alligator of the Ganges. Others aver 
that Shaka Muni (Buddha) himself became " the boy Kompira," in order to 
overcome the heretics and enemies of religion who pressed upon him one 
day as he was preaching in "the Garden of Delight," — the said "boy 
Kompira" having a body 1,000 ft. long provided with 1,000 heads and 
1,000 arms. The mediaeval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o, 
brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been de- 
clared, on the part of the Shinto authorities whose cause the Government 
espouses in all such disputes, that the Indian Kompira is none other 
than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese deity 
whose name has a convenient similarity in sound. 
Consequently, the great Buddhist shrine of Kompira 
in the island of Shikoku, and all the other shrines 
erected to Kompira throughout the country, have 
been claimed and taken over as Shinto property. 
Kompira is a special object of devotion to seamen 
and travellers. 

Ko-no-Hana-Saxu-ya-Hime. See Sengbn. 

Koshin, a deification of that day of the month 

which corresponds to the 57th term of the Chinese 

sexagenary cycle, and is called in Japanese Ka-no-e 

Saru. This, being the day of the Monkey, is 

KdsHiN. represented by three monkeys {sam-biki-zaru) called 




Gods and Goddesses. 



49 




KWANNOX. 



50 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 

respectively, by a play upon words, mi-zaru, kika-zaru 9 and itca-zaru, that 
is, "the blind monkey," "the deaf monkey," and "the dumb monkey." 
Stone slabs with these three monkeys in relief are among the most 
usual objects of devotion met with on the roadside in the rural districts 
of Japan, the idea being that this curious triad will neither see, hear, nor 
speak any evil. 

Kuni-toko-tachi, lit. "The Earthly Eternally Standing One." This 
deity, with Izanagi, Izanami, and four others, helps to form what are 
termed "the Seven Divine Generations" (Tenjin Shichi-dM). 

Kwannon, or more fully Kwanze-on Dai Bosatsu (Sankrit, Avalokites- 
mra), the Goddess of Mercy, who contemplates the world and listens to 
the prayers of the unhappy. According to another but less favourite 
opinion, Kwannon belongs to the male sex. Kwannon is represented 
under various forms — many-headed, headed like a horse, thousand-handed. 
With reference to the images of this deity, it should be stated that the 
so-called Thousand-Handed Kwannon has in reality but forty hands 
which hold out a number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-flower, 
the wheel of the law, the sun and moon, a skull, a pagoda, and an axe, — 
this last serving to typify severance from all worldly cares. A pair of 
hands folded on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant priest. 
The Horse-Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a 
horse's head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One 
of the four pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude 
called Renge no In, emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds 
the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tokko 
(Sanskrit, vdjra), an ornament originally designed to represent a dia- 
mond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre 
symbolising the irresistible power of prayer, meditation, and incantation. 
Of the fourth pair of hands, the left holds a cord wherewith to bind the 
wicked, while the right is stretched out open to indicate almsgiving or 
succour to the weak and erring. A title often applied to Kwannon is 
Nyo-i-rin, properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its 
possessor to gratify all his desires, and which may be approximately 
rendered by the adjective " omnipotent." 

The two figures often represented on either side of Kwannon are 
Fudo and Aizen My 6-6. The "Twenty-eight Followers" of Kwannon 
{M-ju-hachi Bushu), — favourite subjects of the Japanese sculptor and 
painter,— are personifications of the twenty-eight constellations known to 
Far-Eastern astronomy. The various forms represented in the accom^ 
XDanying illustration are : 

1. Sho-Kwannon (Kwannon the Wise). 

2. Ju-icM-men Kwannon (Eleven-Faced). 

3. Serirju Kwannon (Thousand-Handed). 

4. Ba-to Kwannon (Horse-Headed). 

5. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon (Omnipotent). 

Maeishi-Ten (Sanskrit, Marichi) is the personification of light in the 
Brahminical theology, and also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japa- 
nese Buddhism, Marishi-ten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven, 
and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of 
the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms, 
two of which hold up emblems of the sun and moon. 

Maya Bunin, the mother of Buddha. 

Miroku (Sanskrit, Maitreya), Buddha's successor, — the Buddhist 
Messiah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after 
Buddha's entry into Nirvana. 



Gods and Goddesses. 



51 



Monju (Sanskrit, Manjusri), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom. 
His image is usually seated on the left hand of Shaka. 

Nikko Bosatsu, a Buddhist solar deity. 

^i-o, lit. "The Two Deva Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep 
guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away demons. One bears 




7V.-/.-V-/. ••■••■/ • ■•:•/• -••■ /■■■■■•••7.: = --tvnT Ti ■.^V^VH^:\-- V:\^V^ 



in his hand the tokko. The figures of the Ni-5 are of gigantic size and 
terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets of paper 
aimed at them by devotees, who think thus to secure the accomplishment 
of some desire on which they have set their hearts. 

Nyobai (Sanskrit, Tathagata), an honorific title applied to all 
Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (£p), "like," and rat (3f$), 
" to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming and going 
are in accordance with the action of his predecessors. 

Onamtjji or Okuni-nushxI the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re- 
signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when they came 
downfrom heaven to Japan. He is also worshipped under the titles of 
SannO and Hie. 

Oni, a general name for demons, ogres, or devils, — not u the Devil" 
in the singular, as Japanese theology knows nothing of any supreme 
Prince of Darkness. 

Kakan (Sanskrit, Arhan, or Arhat), properly the perfected Arya or 
"holy man," but used to designate not only the perfected saint, but 
all Buddha's immediate disciples, more especially his "Five Hundred 
Disciples" {Go-hyaku Rakan), and his "Sixteen Disciples" {Ju-roku 
Kakan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and 
sculptors. The holy men are represented in various attitudes, many of 
them being emaciated and scantily clad. 



52 



Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 



Koku-bu-ten, a collective name for the Buddhist gods Bontert, 
Taishaku, and the Shi-Tenno. 

Saruta-hiko, a Shint5 deity who led the van when the divine 
ancestors of the Mikado descended to take possession of Japan. 

Sengen, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or 
Kono-Hana-Saku-ya-Hime, that is, " the Princess who makes the Flowers 
of the Trees to Blossom." 

Shaka Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya Muni, the name 
of the founder of Buddhism, who was also called Gautama and is gene- 
rally spoken of by Europeans as "Buddha," though it. would be more 
correct to say '* the Buddha," as there are other inferior Buddhas innumer- 
able. In his youth he was called Shitta Taishi (Sanskrit, Siddhdrtha). 
His birth is usually placed by the Chinese and Japanese in the year 1027 
B.C., but the date accepted by European scholars is 653 B.C. The most 
accessible account of Buddha's life and doctorine is that given by Professor 
Rhys Davids, in his little work entitled Buddhism, published by the 
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. The entombment of Buddha, 
with all creation standing weeping around, is a favourite motive of 
Japanese art. Such pictures are called Nehan-zo, that is, " Representations 
of the Entry into Nirvana." The birth of Buddha (tanjo- Shaka) is also 
often represented, the great teacher then appearing as a naked infant with 
his right hand pointing up and his left hand down, to indicate the power 
which he exercises over heaven and earth. Our illustration gives the most 
usual form of his image. Though not unlike that of Amida, it differs from 
the latter by the position of the hand and the shape of the halo. The chief 




MONJU 



SHAKA MUNI, 



Gods and Goddesses. 



53 




GODS OF LUCK (SHICHI FUKUJIN). 



54 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. 

festivals of Shaka are on the 8th April (his birthday), and the 15th 
February (the anniversary of his death). 

Shaeihotsxj (Sanskrit, S'ariputtra), the wisest of Buddha's ten chief 
disciples. 

Shicht Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely 1, Ebisu; 2, Dai- 
koku ; 3, Benten ; 4, Fukurokuju ; 5, Bishamon ; 6, Jurojin ; 7, Hotei. 

Shi-Tenno, the Four Heavenly Kings, who guard the world against 
the attacks of demons, each defending one quarter of the horizon. Their 
names are Jikoku, East (Sanskrit, Dhritarashtra) ; Komoku, South 
(Virupaksha) ; Zocho, West (Virudhaka) ; and Tamon — also called Bisha- 
mon, — North [Vaisravana or Kuvera). Their images differ from those of 
the Ni-6 by having weapons in their hands, and generally trampling 
demons under foot* Moreover, they are placed, not at the outer gate of 
temples, bjit at an inner one. 

Shoden. This deity, also called Kwangi-ten, is the Indian Ganesa, 
God of Wisdom and Obstacles. " Though he causes obstacles, he also re- 
moves them ; hence he is invoked at the commencement of undertakings. 
He is represented as a short, fat man, with a protuberant belly, fre- 
quently riding on a rat or attended by one, and to denote his sagacity, 
has the head of an elephant, which, however, has only one tusk." (Sir 
Monier Williams.) 

ShSzuka-no-Baba. See Jizo. 

SuiTENGfT, a sea-god evolved by the popular consciousness from 
Yaruna the Buddhist Neptune, the Shinto sea-gods of Sumiyoshi near 
Osaka, and the boy-emperor Antoku, who found a watery grave at Dan-no- 
ura, in A.D. 1185 (com. p. 70). 

Sukuna-Bxkona, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish 
his rule over the land of Izumo, before the descent to earth of the ancestors 
of the Mikados. 

Susa-no-o, lit. "the Impetuous Male." The name of this deity is 
explained by the violent conduct which he exhibited towards his sister, 
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he alarmed so terribly by his mad 
freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator 
Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, by 
others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or mon- 
archs of the province of Izumo, who finally renounced their claims to 
sovereignty over any part of Japan in favour of the descendants of the 
Sun-Goddess. Inada-Hime, one of his many wives, is often associated 
with him as an object of worship. Susa-no-o is also styled Gozu Tenno, 
"the Ox-headed Emperor," — a name apparently derived from that of a 
certain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped. 
The temples dedicated to Susa-no-o are called Gion or Yasaka. The former 
are Buddhist or Kyobu Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines. 

Taishaku, the Brahminical god Indra. 

Tamon. See Anan. 

Ten, a title suffixed to the names of many Buddhist deities, and 
equivalent to the Sanskrit Deva. 

Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister 
and scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane, who, having fallen a victim to 
calumny in A.D. 901, was degraded to the post of Vice-President of the 
Dazaifu, or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that time a 
usual form of banishment for illustrious criminals. He died in exile two 
years later, his death being followed by many portents and disasters to his 
enemies. He is worshipped as the God of Calligraphy, other names for 
him being Kan Shdjo and Temmangu. He is represented in the robes of 



Gods and Goddesses. 



55 




an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated 
to him bear in several places his crest of a conven- 
tional plum-blossom, — five circles grouped round a 
smaller one. A recumbent image of a bull frequently 
adorns the temple grounds, because Michizane was 
wont to ride about on a bull in the land of his exile. 
A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, 
that having been his favourite tree. Indeed, tradition 
avers that the most beautiful plum-tree in his garden 
at Kyoto flew after him through the air to Dazaifu, 
where it is still shown. 

Tengtj. a long-nosed goblin, often represented tengu. 

with wings, and supposed to inhabit the mountains. 

Tennin (Sanskrit, Apsa- 
ras), Buddhist angels — always 
of the female sex. They are 
represented floating in the 
air* clothed in bright-coloured 
robes that often end in long 
feathers like the tail of the 
bird of paradise* and playing 
Am ' C\ n K^f^^^^^W^^iw on musical instruments. 
C^kv^^ Kc^^^Kn fv? 4§?^S>- Toshogu, the name under 

-» "r / i '- which the great Shogun Ie- 

yasu, also called Gongen 
Sama, is worshipped. It sig- 
nifies " the Temple (or Prince) 
Illuminating the East," in 
allusion to the fact that Ie- 
tennin. yasu's glory centred in East- 

ern Japan. 
Toyo-uke-bime, also called Ue^-mochi-no-Xami, the Shintd Goddess 
of Food or of the Earth. The Nihongi, one of the two principal sources of 
Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun-Goddess sent 
the Moon-God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who, 
turning her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the mountains, 
produced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she served up to 
him at a banquet. The Moon-God took offence at her feeding him with 
unclean viands, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On his report- 
ing this act to the Sun-Goddess, the latter was very angry, and secluded 
herself from him for the space of a day and night. From tne body of 
the murdered Earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms, rice, 
barley, and beans, which the Sun- Goddess decreed should thenceforth be 
the food of the human race. In the Kojiki 
version of the myth, it is Susa-no-o who slays 
the Goddess of Food, and there are other differ- 
ences of detail. 

Uzume-no-Mikoto, a goddess whose riotous 
dancing helped to lure the Sun-Goddess from 
her cavern (conf. p. 43). She is popularly 
known as OJcame, and depicted with the ludi- 
crous countenance here illustrated. 

Yaeushi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Bhaishajyagum), 
lit. "the Healing Buddha." His name is ex- 
plained by reference to a prayer, in which he is uzume-no-mikoto. 





56 Introduction : — Art 

called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man*s 
present existence. The images of this deity are scarcely to be distin- 
guished from those of Shaka; 

22.— Art. 

Painting. — The earliest painter mentioned in the national records 
was a Chinese immigrant named Nanryii or Shinki, who settled in Japan 
in the second half of the fifth century, and was followed by many 
generations of descendants. From the latter part of the fifth to the middle 
of the ninth century may be considered the first or educational period of 
Japanese painting. During this era, both pictorial and glyptic art were 
almost entirely in the hands of foreigners, — Koreans or Chinese. 
Unfortunately little is known of the quality of the pictorial art of that 
remote age. One of the least doubtful of the remains of it still in 
existence is the mural decoration in the Kondo of the temple of Horyuji, 
(described in Koute 39), which is said to date from a.d. 607. This work 
will compare not unfavourably with the best of the later productions of 
the Buddhist school* and both in composition and colouring bears not a 
little resemblance to the works of the early Italian masters. 

The second period in the history of Japanese painting dates from 
the middle of the ninth century, an era in which the arts of refinement 
had reached a high state of cultivation. At this time appeared the first 
great painter of native origin, Kose-no-Kanaoka, who rose into notice in 
the second half of the ninth century. He was a court noble of ancient 
lineage. He does not appear to have been indebted to any contemporary 
teacher, but is said to have acquired his knowledge of the laws of painting 
by a close study of the works of Wu Taotzu and other great Chinese 
masters of the T'ang dynasty, whose manner he followed without any 
noteworthy modification. Almost all the works of his brush referred to in 
history have perished ; but a number of quaint legends testify to the effect 
which he made on the minds of his contemporaries. 

Kanaoka's skill was inherited by a long line of descendants down to 
the sixteenth century. They were known chiefly as painters of Buddhist 
pictures; but it is probable that the foundations of the Yamato JRyft, or 
"Native School," were laid by the earlier members of the Kose family. 
This school was established in the eleventh century by a court noble 
named Motomitsu, who had studied under Kose-no-Kimmochi. The 
subjects it most favoured were portraits of Court personages, official 
ceremonies, records of temples, and illustrations of the early native ro- 
mances varied by careful drawings of falcons and horses taken from life, 
sketches of birds and flowers in the graphic Chinese style, with oc- 
casional burlesques in which the routine of human life was mimicked by 
frogs and other animals or by goblins of comic aspect. Landscape does 
not appear to have held as important a position in the list of motives as 
was the case in later times. It is seldom met with as the subject of a 
picture, and when appearing as an accessory is always extremely con- 
ventional in treatment. The drawing was careful and traced with a fine 
brush, but more formal in style and less vigorous in execution than that 
of the older Chinese artists. Despite the lavish use of gold and of bright 
pigments, the colouring possessed little breadth of effect. The perspective 
was isometrical, but often relieved by the curious practice of omitting the 
roof s of buildings in order better to display the incidents of the interior. 
This school is less forcible in style than those that followed. 



.Art. 57 

In the thirteenth century Tsunetaka, head of the Yamato Ryu, as- 
sumed the family name of Tcsa. Hence the title of Tosa Ryu, or " Tosa 
School," retained to the present day. These painters monopolised the 
patronage of the Court until the renaissance of the fifteenth century. 
Speaking generally, the styles practised during the middle ages showed 
the effects of two divergent spirits,— the Chinese proper, simple and 
vigorous, and the decorative but conventional Buddhist style, which, 
though also transmitted through China, was of Indian origin with traces 
of remote Greek influence. Painting held a place amongst the refined 
accomplishments by the side of literature and calligraphy, and was 
exclusively in the hands of men and women of noble birth. 

Late in the thirteenth century, a school of caricature was founded by 
a Buddhist priest named Toba Sojo. The works in his manner, _ still 
known as Toba,-e, or " Toba pictures," were often marked by Rabelaisian 
humour. 

The third period was ushered in by an energetic renaissance of the 
Chinese influence. Encouraged by the active patronage of the Ashikaga 
dynasty, the Medici of medieval Japan, a new school arose. 

The Cimabue of classical art was a priest named Josetsu, who, 
according to some authorities, came from Korea about A.D. 1400, but by 
others is claimed as a native of Kyushu in Japan. He was great chiefly 
as a teacher. Cho Densu (died 1427) was the best and most original 
painter of Buddhist pictures, a splendid series of which still survives. He 
was worthily imitated by his pupil Kan Densu. 

The greatest of Josetsu's pupils was Sesshu (1421-1507). This artist, 
after acquiring ail that could be learnt in his own country, went to 
China, where he remained several years and earned in the Imperial capital 
a reputation of which the Japanese are justly proud. On his return to 
Japan he founded a school, and left many noted pupils. Anderson says 
of him : " It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value. 
. . .Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was 
his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of 
having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the 
artificial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an 
original and powerful artist, and his renderings of Chinese scenery bear- 
evidences of local study that we look for in vain in the works of his 
successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their 
extraordinary breadth of design, the illusive suggestions of atmosphere 
and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetry, demonstrate a genius 
that could rise above all defects of theory in the principles of his art." 

Sesshu's contemporary, Shubun, lacked the advantage of study in 
China, but his genius and influence were scarcely inferior. 

Kano Masanobu, the nominal founder of the Eano School, was 
unequal to the painters characterised above. The real founder was his son 
Kano Motonobu, alias Ko-hogen (1477-1559). This great artist is held 
here in the same veneration as is felt in Europe for his contemporary 
Baphael. Eor many years he worked in relative poverty and obscurity, 
but at length rose into notice, and achieved a reputation unsurpassed 
even by that of Kose-no-Kanaoka. He was an avowed imitator of certain 
Chinese masters of the Sung and Yuan dynasties, and like Sesshu and 
Shubun, borrowed his motives almost entirely from Chinese sources, 
expending extraordinary powers of composition and drawing in the 
delineation of scenery and personages known to him only through the 
imagination or in the works of others. His school nevertheless became 
the most important in Japan, retaining its pre-eminence for nearly three 



58 Introduction : — Art. 

centuries after his death. The most eminent of its members was Tan-yu, 
who flourished in the seventeenth century. 

The Sesshu, Kan5, and "Chinese" schools must all be classed as 
Chinese; for although distinguished by minor points of technique, their 
style was essentially one. It was characterised by a quiet and harmonious 
colouring, and by bold calligraphic drawing in which little attention was 
paid to naturalistic details. The favourite motives were portraits of 
Chinese sages or Buddhist saints, Chinese landscape, sketches of birds and 
flowers after the manner and often from the works of the Chinese masters. 
Fuji was one of the few native subjects exceptionally admitted. 

Iwasa Matahei (16th century) a Tosa artist, originated the " Popular 
School," which, abandoning prescribed subjects and conventional man- 
nerisms, undertook to paint life as it is. But he found no following for 
over a hundred years, unless some rough caricatures known as Otsu-e, be 
deemed worthy of mention in this connection. Korin, also of the Tosa 
line, founded a new school in the seventeenth century. His dashing grace 
and wonderful colouring place him in the foremost rank of Japan's artists, 
despite an abnormally accentuated mannerism* The decoration of lacquer 
objects engaged much of his skill. Other noteworthy names belonging to 
this third period are : — 

Tosa School : — Mitsunobu and Mitsushige (15th century), Mitsuoki 
(17th century). 

Sesshu School : — Shugetsu, Sesson, Do-an (16th century). 

Chinese School: — Oguri S5tan (15th century), Byu-rikyo, Taigado 
(18th century). 

Kano School :— Sho-ei, Eitoku, Sanraku (16th century), Naonobu, Yasu- 
nobu, Tsunenobu, Masunobu (17th century). 

The fourth and latest period of Japanese art began about 1780 with 
the rise of the Shijo School under Maruyama Okyo. Starting from a 
naturalistic theory, this artist and his numerous pupils nevertheless 
retained the faulty Chinese perspective and continued to ignore the laws 
of chiaroscuro, the result being a compromise between truth to nature and 
inherited conventions. Okyo's flowers, birds, and fish were astonishingly 
life-like, as were the monkeys of his pupil Sosen. Other famous followers 
wereBosetsu, Ippo and Keibun both noted for their birds, Ho-en (flourished 
circa 1840), and Yosai, who survived till 1878 at the great age of 91. The 
Ganku Ryu was a contemporary school derived from the Chinese, but 
modified through the influence of Shijo naturalism. Ganku and Bunrin 
are its best-known representatives. 

The most interesting phase in the art history of the period was, how- 
ever, the prominence attained by the "Popular School " (Ukiyo-e Ryu), 
which was now recruited from the artisan class. Iwasa Matahei had 
foreshadowed this development in the sixteenth century, as already men- 
tioned. At the end of the seventeenth century, Hishigawa Moronobu, 
Hanabusa Itcho, Nishigawa Sukenobu, and other artists of gentle birth 
took up the tradition, the first of these being the originator of artistic 
book illustration. But the culminating period of this school did not come 
till the eighteenth century, when the profession of drawing for engravers 
fell into the hands of commoners, of whom the earliest to win fame for their 
colour prints of actors and professional beauties were the Torii and 
Katsugawa families. The best artists in nishiki-e, as these colour prints 
are termed, were Utamaro, Torii Kiyonaga, Suzuki Harunobu, and 
Koryusai, together with their more popular successor Hokusai (1760- 
1849), whose ceaseless activity in illustrating books, drawing broadsides, 
and producing the more delicate little compositions called surimono, 



Art, 59 

covered an immense range of subjects quaint, humorous, and homely. Of 
Hokusai's fellow-workers the name is legion. Pre-eminent among them 
were Toyokuni, Kuniyoshi, and Kunisada of the Utagawa family, who 
succeeded the Katsugawa as theatrical draughtsmen, and such guide- 
book (Meisho) illustrators as Shuncho-sai and Settan. In addition to 
these were Hokkei, Keisai, Eisen, Byusen, Shigenobu, Hiroshige, and 
many more of lesser note. 

Among the most eminent artists who carried on the traditions of the 
older schools during the latest period were : — 

Chinese School : — Buson (died 1783), also noted as a poet, Keisai, and 
Tani Buncho (early 19th century), 

Korin School : — Ho-itsu (early 19th century), 

The shock of contact with Europe after 1850 paralysed native effort 
The second Hiroshige, Isai, and Kyosai were for some time the only colour- 
print artists to rise above mediocrity* Quite recently Gekko and Kogyo 
together with Watanabe Seitei, Kiyosai, and Kansai, have led a revival. 
The native style of painting, too, though not without traces of European 
influence, is again assiduously cultivated, Hashimoto Gaho (died 1908) 
having been its best exponent. The government has lent its aid by 
establishing an Art Academy at Tokyo. 

Sculpture. — The history of this art being less well-known than that 
of painting, the briefest notice must suffice. Sculpture long remained 
exclusively in Buddhist hands,— at first in those of Korean priests or of 
descendants of Korean and Chinese craftsmen, — whence it not unnaturally 
exhibits Indian influence. Critics still hesitate as to the share to be 
attributed to native Japanese in a series of large wood and bronze images 
adorning the temples of Kyoto and Nara, many of which are now collected 
together in the museums of those cities. Whatever their origin and date 
(some are attributed to the sixth and seventh centuries), these figures, by 
virtue of their passionate vitality of expression and of their truth to 
anatomical detail, may claim a place among the world's masterpieces. 
The ideal they embodied has not again been reached on Japanese soil. 
Japan also possesses some early stone images and a few remarkable stone 
carvings in relief ; but this branch of the art has remained comparatively 
unimportant. Beverting to wood, the names of the following carvers of 
Buddhist images call for mention : — Tori Busshi (7th century), Keibunkai 
and Kasuga (8th century), the abbot Eshin $42-1017), Jocho, founder of 
the important Nara school which included Kokei and Unkei (all three in 
the 11th century), and Tankei and Kwaikei (12th century). In bronze, the 
Daibutsu (lit. " big Buddha ") at Kamakura and Nara are notable legacies 
from mediaeval times. 

The end of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries 
witnessed a new development in the carved and painted wooden decora- 
tions of temples, especially at Kyoto, Tokyo, and Nikko. These beautiful 
works represent flowers, birds, angels, dragons, etc., being for the most 
part executed from designs by famous living painters or old masters. 
They are applied with splendid effect to every portion of a building, 
notably to the adornment of gateways, pillars, ceilings, palisades, and of 
what are termed ramma, a kind of ventilating panels between rooms. The 
greatest carver in this style was Hidari Jingoro (1584-1634). Originally 
a simple carpenter, as all the previous carvers of geometrical designs and 
conventional flowers had been, he raised the craft to the status of a 
separate art. His nickname of Hidari arose from his being left-handed. 
Many works currently attributed to him are not accepted as such by 
modern critics. Portraiture was attempted by some artists, occasionally 



60 Introduction : — Art. 

with good results. Many images, especially of gods and saints, were 
painted ; others were lacquered. 

Besides the large images mentioned above, schools of workers in metal 
devoted themselves to the adornment of temple furniture, such as incense- 
burners, bells, bronze lanterns, and plaques of various alloys nailed to 
doors and pillars ; others decorated sword furniture and armour, the 
application of art industry coming to cover almost the whole field of life 
among the upper classes from the fifteenth to the nineteenth centuries 
inclusive. 

Lacquer Work, originally introduced from China, like all else, 
flourished during the same period. As with carving, so here also, the 
designs were often supplied by painters. In some cases, as that of Korin 
referred to above, the same individual achieved triumphs in both arts. 
Among the most ornamental kinds of lacquer, mention may be made of 
maki-e, or "gold lacquer," produced in many varieties, e.g., nashiji, in 
which the gold is powdered over the surface. Togi-dashi is a soft style, the 
outline being brought out by a series of rubbings. In tsuishu there is a 
very thick coat of red lacquer which is afterwards carved ; tsuikoku is 
the same in black. Aogai is a variety producing an iridescent effect like 
mother-of-pearl. The complicated process involved in the manufacture 
even of the simpler kinds will be found described in Things Japanese. 

With regard to Porcelain, various notices will be found scattered 
throughout this volume. 

The following names of Japanese art-forms not yet mentioned should 
be remembered, for most of which no English equivalents exist : — 

The fusuma, sliding doors between rooms, often beautifully painted. 

The inrb, a small medicine-box in segments, generally made of 
lacquer. The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one 
extremity of which a netsuke is often attached. 

The kakemono, or hanging scroll, generally p<iinted, sometimes 
embroidered. 

The kbrb, or incense-burner, generally of bronze or porcelain. 

The makimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly 
for manuscripts, which are often beautifully illuminated. 

The netsuke, originally a kind of button for the medicine box, pipe- 
case, or tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. These little articles 
have developed into gems of art. 

The okimono, a general name for various small ornaments having no 
definite use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or a cabinet. 

Mention may also be made of various gear appertaining to the Japanese 
sword {katana) and often cunningly wrought in metals and alloys, of 
which latter the best-known are shibu-ichi and shakudo, both formed of a 
basis of copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially 
noteworthy among these articles are the tsuba, or guard, and the menuki, — 
small ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by the 
silk cord which binds together the various parts of the handle. 

The best books on Japanese art are very expensive. Anderson's 
Pictorial Arts of Japan and Morrison's Painters of Japan are splendidly 
illustrated. Brinkley's Japan and China has one volume— the eighth — 
entirely devoted to keramics. Dick's Arts and Crafts of Old Japan is a 
handy compendium. Strange's Japanese Colour Prints may be recom- 
mended for its special subject. The Kokkwa (a serial) and the Shimbi 
Sho-in f s publications are beautiful, but costly. 



Outline of Japanese History. 61 



23. — Outline of Japanese History. 

Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or 
the period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of 
trustworthy history, in the 5th century after Christ, finds the Mikados 
— Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu — 
already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied 
by the Aino aborigines, and Chinese civilization beginning to filter into 
what had apparently hitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief 
pioneers of this civilization were Buddhist priests from Korea. From 
that time onward Japanese history consists, broadly speaking, in the 
rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while always pro- 
fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the Mikado, 
practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country. 
By the end of the 12th century, the old absolutism had been converted 
into a feudalism, of which Yoritomo, the successful chieftain of the 
house of Minamoto, became the acknowledged head under the title of 
Shogun, which closely corresponds in etymology and in signification 
to the Latin Imperator. Thus was inaugurated the dual system of 
government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the Mikado supreme 
in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old 
capital Kyoto; the Shogun with his great feudatories, his armed re- 
tainers, and his well-filled exchequer, ruling the whole empire from 
his new capital in Eastern Japan, — first Kamakura, then Yedo. During 
the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of 
Sh5guns, the real power was in the hands of their chief retainers, the 
Hojo family,— the political arrangement thus becoming a triple one. 
The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the 
Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, since which time 
Japan has never been invaded by any foreign foe. The Ashikaga 
line of Shoguns grasped the power which had fallen from the Hojo's 
hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts. 
The second half of the 16th century was a period of anarchy, during 
which two great soldiers of fortune who were not Shoguns — Nobunaga 
and Hideyoshi— successively rose to supreme power. Hideyoshi even went 
so far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China, an 
enterprise which was, however, interrupted by his death in A.D. 1598. 
Tokugawa Ieyasu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, then succeeded in making 
Japan his own, by the great victory of Seki-ga-hara in 1600. Finally over- 
throwing ail rivals at Osaka in 1615, he founded a dynasty of Shoguns that 
ruled the land in profound peace for two and a half centuries, namely, till 
1868. Among the means resorted to for securing this end, were the 
ejection of the Catholic missionaries and the closing of the country to 
foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in the empire at which any 
communication with the outer world was permitted ; no European nation 
but the Dutch was allowed to trade there, and even Dutch commerce was 
restricted within narrow limits. At last, in 1853, the government of the 
United States sent a fleet under the command of Commodore Perry to 
insist on the abandonment of the Japanese policy of isolation. This act 
of interference from the outside gave the coup de grace to the Shogunate, 
which had previously been weakened by internal discontent. It fell, and 
in its fall dragged down the whole fabric of mediaeval Japanese civilsation. 
On the one hand, the Mikado was restored to the absolute power which 



82 



Introduction:— Outline of Japanese History. 



had belonged to his ancestors centuries before. On the other, Europeanism 
(if one may so phrase it) became supreme in every branch of thought and 
activity. The natural outcome of this has been the Europeanisation of the 
monarchy itself. Not only has the Court adopted foreign manners and 
etiquette, — it has granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia ; and 
the Diet, as it is termed, meets yearly. Japanese trade and industry have 
developed enormously under the new regime, while the reconstruction of 
the army and the creation of a navy, both of which have won laurels in 
recent wars, have placed Japan among the great powers of the world. 
Japan's foreign acquisitions are the Luchu Islands, Formosa, and Korea, 
while South Manchuria has also come under her sphere of influence. 

The following are the chief dates of Japanese history : — 
_ /Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tenno 

c3 • 



Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E, Japan 
Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jing5 
First Chinese books brought to Japan... 

Buddhism introduced from Korea 

Sh5toku Taishi patronises Buddhism 

Government remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan 

Chinese calendar introduced 

Fu jiwara family predominant 

The Court resides at Nara 

First extant Japanese book published {Kojiki) 

Printing introduced 

Kyoto made the capital 

Invention of the Hiragana syllabary 

Struggle between the house of Taira and Minamoto 

Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate at Kamakura 

Hoj 6 family predominant 

Bepulse of the Mongols 

Two rival lines of Mikados, the Northern and Southern Court 

Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 

The Portuguese discover Japan 

St. Francis Xavier arrives in Japan 

First persecution of the Christians 

Yedo founded by leyasu 

Hideyoshi invades Korea , 

Battle of Seld-ga-hara 

Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns 

Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 

The Dutch relegated to Deshima 

Kaempf er visits Japan 

Arrival of Commodore Perry 

First treaty signed with the United States 

Great earthquake at Yedo 

First treaties with European Powers 

Yokohama opened to foreign trade 

First Japanese embassy sent abroad ... 

Bombardment of Shimonoseld ... ... ... 

Civil war at Ky5to . ... 

The Shogunate abolished and the Mikado again rules 

Pjyil war between Imperialists and partisans of the Shogun . . . 



B.C. 

660 
A.D. 

97-113 

200 

285 

552 

593-621 

600-800 

602 

670-1050 

709-784 

712 

770 

794 

809 
1156-1185 
1192 

1205-1333 
1274-1281 
1332-1392 
1338-1565 
1542 
1549 
1587 
1590 

1592-1598 
1600 

1603-1868 
1624 
1639 

1690-1692 
1853 
1854 
1855 

1857-1859 
1858 
1860 
1864 

1864-1865 
1868 
1868-1869 



Chronological Tables 63 

The Mikado removes to Y edo (Tokyo) 1869 

Abolition of feudal system 1871 

Tokyo- Yokohama railway opened 1872 

Adoption of Gregorian calendar 1873 

Expedition to Formosa 1874 

Wearing of swords interdicted 1876 

Satsuma rebellion 1877 

New Codes published... 1880-1906 

Constitution promulgated. , ... 1889 

First Diet met , 1890 

Victorious war with China 1894-1895 

Formosa added to the empire 1895 

Gold standard adopted 1897 

New treaties come into operation, whereby all foreigners are 

brought under Japanese law 1899 

Japan joined European powers in relief of Peking 1900 

Anglo- Japanese alliance 1902 

Victorious war with Russia ; protectorate over Korea 1904-5 

Annexation of Korea 1910 

Accession of present Emperor '. . ... 1912 

24. — Japanese Chronological Tables. 

The Japanese, instead of calculating from the Christian era, employ 
what are called "year-names" lasting for a variable number of years. 
Thus, 1913 is the 2nd year of "Taisho." Formerly, also, the year began 
about six weeks later than ours, and the calendar was lunar, making all 
dates variable from year to year. This is what is occasionally referred to 
in the present volume under festivals, etc, as " Old Style." 

The following tables, adapted by permission from a little work 
compiled many years ago by Sir Ernest Satow for private circulation, 
will facilitate reference to Japanese historical dates. 

Table I. gives the Japanese Nengb or "year-names,"* arranged 
alphabetically, with the equivalent of each according to the Christian 
calendar, the first number being the year in which the "year-name" 
commenced, the second that in which it ended. Some few may appear 
to be repetitions of each other, for instance, Ei-relci and Yb-ryaku, both 
representing the period 1160-1. The reason of this is that the Chinese 
characters Tjtgf > w ^ n which this " year-name " is written, admit of being 
lead in two ways, much as, among ourselves, some persons pronounce 
the word " lieutenant " lyooteiiant, others leftenant. The remaining tables 
are self-explanatory, giving as they do, in alphabetical order, the names 
of the Mikados, Shoguns, and Regents, with the dates of their reigns. 
Note only that the alternative name of each Shogun is that conferred on 
him posthumously. For instance, the ruler known to history as Ieyasu, 
was, so to say, canonised under the title of Tbshbgil. 

Another system, in concurrent use with the " year-names," is that of 
the era (Kigen) of the first Emperor, Jimmu Tenno, who, according to the 
accepted chronology, ascended the throne in 660 B. C, as mentioned 
above. By this reckoning, the year 1913, for instance, becomes 2573. 
This method of dating is, however, but little employed, except by certain 
historiographers and in school text-books. 

* For details, see "Things Japanese," articles Time and Festivals. 



64 



Introduction : — Chronological Tables, 



TABLE I. 

The Japanese " Yeak-names." 



An-ei 


3c* 


1772-81 


Choko 


ft* 


1487-89 


Eirokn 


tRJH 


1558-70 


Angen 


£tc 


1175-77 


Chokwan 


ftX 


1163-65 


Eisho 


t£& 


1045-53 


Ansei 


S^ 


1854-60 


Chdkya 


SA 


1040-44 


Eisho 


tTciE 


1504-21 


Antei kgj| 


1227-29 


Choreki 


&m 


1037-40 


Eiso 


77cf* 


989-90 


Anwa 


®?n 


968-70 


Ch5roku. 


s# 


1457-60 


Eitoku 


7%W 


1381-84 


Bummei 


*W 


1469-87 


Ch5sh5 


ft* 


1132-35 


Eiwa 


7jc?n 


1375-79 


Bumpd 


£# 


1317-19 


Ch5toku 


IP 


995-99 


Embun 


5E£ 


1356-61 


Bnn-an 


£& 


1444-49 


Chowa 


Sffl 


1012-17 


Emp5 


5iK 


1673-81 


Bunchu 


3fc* 


1372-75 


Daido 


±m 


806-10 


Encho 


MS: 


923-31 


Bun-ei 


£7* 


1264-75 


Dai-ei 


Jtnt 


1521-28 


Engen 


-&JC 


1336-40 


Bunji 


£» 


1185-90 


Dailid 


** 


701-04 


Engi 


5ES 


901-23 


Bunki 


3fcH 


1501-04 


Daiji 


*?§ 


1126-31 


Enkei 


5£tt 


1308-11 


Bunkwa 


£4fc 


1804-18 


Daikwa 


f<it 


645-50 


Enkyo 


ffi¥ 


1744-48 


Bunkyu 


2fcA 


1861-64 


Eicho 


&& 


1096-97 


Enkyu 


mx 


1069-74 


Bun-5 


*Jffi 


1260-61 


Ei-en 


?kM 


987-89 


En-6 


H&M 


1239-40 


Bunroku 


£# 


1592-96 


Eiho 


7*fS 


1081-84 


Enryaku 


mm 


782-806 


Bunryaku 


JOS 


1234-35 


Eiji 


tK*?6 


1141-42 


Entoku 


ffitg 


1489-92 


Bunsei 


xm 


1818-30 


Eikyd 


77<¥ 


1429-41 


Gembun 


7t£ 


1736-41 


Bunsh5 


%]£ 


1466-67 


Eikyu 


TICA 


1113-18 


Gencbu 


7C* 


1384-93 


Bun-wa 


£?fl 


1352-56 


Eikwan 


tKS 


983-85 


Gen-ei 


TCtX 


1118-20 


Ch5gen 


S71: 


1028-37 


Eiman 


*16 


1165-66 


Genji 


7t7& 


1864-65 


Choho 


g$:999-1004 


Einin 


acfc 


1293-99 ! 


Genkei 


TCft 


877-85 


Choji 


£?& 


1104-06 


Eireki 


7X1 


1160-61 


Genki 


^H 


1570-73 



Chronological Tobies. 



65 



Genk5 


7C? 


1321-24 


Jd-ei 


£jjc! 1232-33 


Kemp5 


H&j 1213-19 


Genkd 


Ttjd 1331-34 


J6-gen 


m 


976-78 


Kenchd 


^g 1 1249-56 


Genkyu 


jt& 1204-06 


Jokwan J[|§1 


859-77 


Ken-ei bfcjc 


1206-07 


Gennin 


Jttl 


1224-25 


Joji 


*f& 


lo62-68 


Kengen 


Ktc 


1302-03 


Gen-o 


7CJK 


1319-21 


J6-kyo 


A* 


1684-88 


Kenji 


mm 


1275-78 


Genroku 


7(M 


1688- 
1704 


J6-6 


M.A 


1222 24 


Kenkyu 


m& 


1190-99 


GenryakuiTcB 


1184-85 


Jowa 


£» 


1345-50 


Kennin 


mn 


1201-04 


Gentoku bcfg 


1329-31 


Ju-ei 


#77C 


1182-85 


Kenryaku 


mm 


1211-13 


Genwa 


7C?n 


1615-24 


Ka-ei 


lskfl< 


1848-54 


Kentoku 


mm 


1370-72 


Hakuchi 


&m 


650-55 


Kagen 


^x| 1303-06 


K6-an 


&£ 1278-88 

1 


Hakuho 


&m 


673-86 


Kah5 


n» 


1094-96 


Ko-an 


g|$| 1361-62 


Heiji 


^f& 


1159-60 


Kajo 


HP 


848-51 


Kochd 


%& 1261-64 


H6-an 


fftd 1120-24 


Kakei 


HUE 


1387-89 


K6-ei 


Bt/Tc 


1342-45 


Ho-ei 


R 7 7cj 1704-11 


Kakitsu 


Hsr I=J 


1441-44 


Kogen 


fee 


1256-57 


Ho-en 


%m 


1135-41 


Ka-6 


»it 


1169-71 


Kohei 


BW 


1058-65 


Hogen 


ft* 


1156-59 


Kareki 


HJff 


1326-29 


Koho 


§§» 


964-68 


Hoji 


Kv# 


1247-49 


Karoku 


mm 


1225-27 


Koji 


gtfc| 1142-44 


Hoki 


RH 


770-81 


Kashd 


mm\ 848-51 


Koji 


§W& 


1555-58 


Horeki 


mm 


1751-64 


Kashd 


Mlk 


1106-08 


Kokoku 


*S 


1340-46 


Hotoku 


mm 


1449 52 


Katei 


WM 


1235-38 


Kdkwa 


&ft 


1844-48 


Ji-an 


iS£ 


1021-24 


Kei-an 


»£J 1648-52 


Konin 


gkfc 


810-24 


Jingo 
Keiun 




767-70 


Keicho 


* al 1596- 
««! 1615 


K6-6 


HM 


1389-90 


Jinki 


#H 


724-29 


Kei-o 


BE UK 


1865-68 


Koreki 


IK If 


1379-81 


Jireki 


J&B 


1065-69 


Kei-un 


M 


704-08 


Koroku 


¥1* 


1528-32 


Jisho 


f&*j 1177-81 


Kemmu 


«« 


1334-38 


Kosho 


SIjE 


1455-57 



66 



Introduction : — Chronological Tables. 



Kotoku 


$4S| 1452-55 


Manju 


Mm 


1024-28 


Shochd 


E« 


1428-29 


Kowa 


Sfn 


1099- 
1104 


Meiji 


Wfc 


1868- 
1912 


Shochii 


IE* 


1324-26 


Kowa 


J&%n 1381-84 


Mei-6 


mm 


1492- 
1501 


Shogen 


j£jt 1259-60 


Kwam- 
bun 


%ic 


1661-73 


Meireki 


mm 


1655-58 


Shogen 


Mtc 


1207-11 


Kwampei \% q^ 


889-98 


Meitoku 


mm 


1390-94 


Shohei 


»¥ 


931-38 


Kwampo 


%% 


1741-44 


Meiwa 


mm 


1764-72 


Shohei 


JE*£ 


1346-70 


Kwan-ei 


%fc 


1624-44 


Nimpei 


t^ 


1151-54 


Shoho 


&« 


1074-77 


Kwan-en 


%& 


1748-51 


Nin-an 


t& 


1166-69 


Shoho 


IE# 1644-48 


Kwangen 


%7t 


1243-47 


Ninji tl*?& 


1240-43 


Shoji 


^^1 1201 


Kwanji jgftj 1087-94 


Ninju 


tip 


851 54 


Shoka 


IE* 


1257-59 


Kwanki 


%M 


1229-32 


Ninwa 


fc?n 


885-89 


Sh5kei 


JEM 


1332-33 


Kwanko 


%% 


1004 12 


(5-an 


it& 


1368-75 


Shokyu 


■%& 1219-22 


Kwannin 


«t 


1017-24 


0-ch5 


m& 


1311-12 


Sho-o 


JEffi 1288-93 


Kwan-6 


mm 


1350-52 


0-ei 


m& 


1394- 
1428 


Shd-5 


*IS 


1652-55 


Kwansei 


«®c 


1789- 
1801 


Oho 


m# 


1161-63 


Shoreki 


jzm 


990-95 


Kwansko .JglE 


1460 66 


Onin 


*t 


1467-69 


Shdreki 


IkM 


1077-81 


Kwan- U^ 
toku j^ 1 ® 


1044-46 


Otoku 


ffifi 


1084-87 


Shotai 


S^l 898-904 


Kwanwa 


Xfn 


985-87 


Owa 


g?n 


961-64 


Shotoku 


Mm 


1097-99 


Kydh5 


¥» 


1716-36 


Eeiki 


Ma 


715-17 


Shotoku 


izm 


1711-16 


KyStoku 


mm 


1452-55 


Kekinin 


mte 


1238-39 


Showa 


Mn 


834-48 


Kyowa 


?fn 


1801-04 


Eeki-6 


mm 


1338-42 


Showa 


j£fl\ 


1312-17 


Kyri-an 


&Sfc] 1145-51 


Saiko 


wm 


854-57 


Shucho 


*fi 


686-701 


Kyuju 


&B 


1154-56 


Shitoku 


mm 


1384-87 


Shujaku 


** 


672-72 


Man-en 


H5i| 1860-61 


Sho-an 


&£ 


1171-75 


Taiji 


**? 


1126-31 


Manji 


nm 1658-61 


Sho-an 


JE* 


1299- 
1302 


Taisho 


*j£ 


1912 1 



Chronological Tables. 



67 



Tembun Jx& 



1532-55 



Temmei mm 1781-89 



Tempei 
Hoji 






757-65 



Tempei |^j 765 _ 67 

Jingo l#ai 



Tempei j^ '-£ 
Sbobof^lt 



749-57 



Temp5 Jiffl 1830-44 



Tempukuh^fg 1233-34 



Tempyo 



^^ 



729-49 



Ten-an ^$£ 



857-59 



Teneho ^cg 



824-34 



Ten-ei %&] 1110-13 



Ten-en JkM 973-76 



Tengen 


^7C 


978-83 


Tengyd 


^M 


938-46 


Tenkei 


^m 


947-57 


Tenji 


^7§ 


1124-26 


Tenju 


Ji&\ 1375-81 

i 


TenM j^zg: 1053-58 


Tennin 


HfZ 


1108-10 


Ten-6 bc.Rg 


781-82 


Tenroku 


JiB 


970-73 



Tenryaku^Jff 947-57 



Tenshd 



■%■& 1131-32 



Tenshd 


5^jE 1573-92 


Tentoku 


^fi 


957-61 


Tenwa 


X?n 


1681-84 


Tenyo 


3£#j 1144-45 


Tokuji 


Sf& 


1308-08 


Wado 


mm 


708 15 


Yord 


m%\ 717-24 


Yoryaku 


j!c»| H60-61 


Yoso 


mm 


989-90 



l r 6wa 



^fq 1181-82 



TABLE H. 

List of Mikados. | 



Ankan 


534-35 


Fushimi 


1288-98 


Go-Ichijo 1017-36 


Anko 


454-56 


Gemmyd 


708-15 


Go-Kame- 

yama 


1368-92 


Aiinei 54 ^- 1b c 


Gensho 


715-23 


Go-Kashiwa- 
bara 


1501-62 


Antoku 


1181-85 


Go-Daigo 


1319-39 


Go-K6gen * 


1352-71 


Bidatsu | 572-85 

! 


Go-Enyu * 


1372-82 


Go-Komatsu * 


1383-92 


Chuai 


192-200 


Go-Fukakusa 


1247-59 


Go-Komatsu 


1392- 
1412 


Chtikyo 


1222-22 


Go-Fushimi 


1299- 
1301 


Go-K6my5 1 1644-54 


Daigo 


898-930 


Go-Hanazono ! 1429-64 

i 


Go-Alizuno-o 


1612-29 


Enyu 


970-84 


Go-Horikawa 


1222-32 


Go-Momo 

zono 


1771-79 



+ All those not marked B. C. are subsequent to the Christian era. Female 
Mikados are printed in italics. The sovereigns whose names are marked with an 
asterisk belonged to the Northern Court (see p. 7*2), and are excluded by modern 
historians from-the-legitimate-line-of succession. 



68 



Introduction : — Chronological Tables. 



Go-Murakami] 1319-68 


Jomei 


629-41 


Kwammu 


782-806 


Go-Nara 


1527-57 


Junna 


824-33 


Kwazan 


985-86 


Go-Nijo 


1302-08 


Junnin 


758-64 


Meiji 


1868- 
1912 


Go-Reizei 


1046-68 


Juntoku 


1211-21 


MeisJw 


1630-43 


Go-Saga 


1243-46 


Kaikwa 


157- 

98b.c. 


Mommu 


697-707 


Go-Saiin 


1655-63 


Kameyama 


1260-74 


Momozono 


1747-62 


Go-Sakura- 
machi 


1763-70 


Keiko 


71-130 


Montoku 


851-58 


Go-Sanj5 


1069-73 


Kens5 1 485-87 

! 


Murakami 


947-67 


Go-Shirakawal 1156-58 


Keitai 


507-31 


Muretsu 


499-506 


Go-Shujaku 


1037-45 


Kimmei 


540-71 


Naka-mikado 


1710-35 


Go-Toba 


1186-98 


Koan | 29lB.c. 


Nij5 


1159-65 


Go-Tsuchi- 
mikado 


1465- 
1500 


Kobun 


672-72 


Nimmyo 


834-50 


Go-Uda 


1275-87 


Kogen 


214- 
158b.c. 


Ninken 


488-98 


Go-Y6zei 


1587- 
1611 


Kogyoku 


642-45 


Ninko 


1817-46 


Hanazono 


1308-18 


Kogon * 


1332-35 


Nintoku 


313-99 


Hansei 


406-11 


Kokaku 


1780- 
1817 


Ogimachi 


1558-86 


Heizei 


806-09 


Kbken 


749-58 


Ojin 


270-310 


Higashi-yama 


1687- 
1709 


Koko 


885-87 


Reigen 


1663-86 


Horikawa 


1087- 
1107 


Komei 


1847-66 


Reizei 


968-69 


Ichij5 


987-1011 


Komyo * 


1336-48 


Richii 


400-05 


Inkyd 


412-53 


Konin 770-81 


Rokujo 


1166-68 


Itoku 


510- 
477b.c. 


Konoe 


1142-55 


Saga 


810-23 


Jimmu 


660- 
585b.c. 


Kdrei 


290- 
215b.c. 


Saimei 


655-61 


Jingo Kogo 


201-69 


Koshd 


475- 
393b.c. 


Sakura-machi 


1736-47 


Jitb 


690-96 


Kotoku 


645-54 


Sanjo 


1012-15 



Chronological Tables. 



69 



Seimu 


131-90 


Shujaku 


931-46 


Temmn 


673-86 


Seinei 


480-84 


Suiko 


593-628 


Tenchi 


662-71 


Sehva j 859-76 


Suinin 


29 b.c- 

70A.D. 


Toba 


1108-23 


Senkwa 


536-39 


Suisei 


581- 
549 b.c. 


Tsuchi- 

naikado 


1199- 
1210 


Shijo 


1233-42 


Sujin 


97-30b.c. 


Tsunuzashi 


484-84 


Shirakawa 


1073-86 


Sujnn 


588-92 


Uda 


888-97 


Shoko 


1411-28 


Snko* 


3 349-52 


Yomei 


586-87 


Shomu 


724-48 


Sutoku 


1124-41 


Yozei 


877-84 


Shotoku 


765-70 


Takakura 


1169-80 


Yuryaku 


457-59 



TABLE in. 

List of Sh5gunb. 



Hidetada (Taitokn-In) 


1605-1623 


Koreyasu 


1266-1289 


Hisa-akira 1 1289-1308 

i 


Morikmii 


1308-1333 


Ieharu (Shimniei-In) 


1760-1786 


Morinaga (Oto-no-Miya) 


1333-1334 


Iemitsu (Taiyu-In) 


1623-1650 


Munetaka 1 1252-1266 


Iemoclii (Shotoku-In) 


1858-1866 


NariyosM (Shigenaga) 


1334-1338 


Ienari (Bunkyo-In) 


1787-1838 


Sanetomo 


1203-1219 


Ienobu (Bunsh5-In) 


1709-1713 


Takauji (T6ji-In) 


1338-1356 


Iesada (Onkyo-In) 


1853-1858 


Tsunayoshi ( J6ken-In) 


1680-1709 


Ieshige (Junshin-In) 


1745-1760 


Yoriie 1202-1203 


Ietsugu (Yusho-In) 


1713-1716 


Yoritomo 


1192-1199 


Ietsuna (Gen-yu-In) 


1651-1680 


Yoritsugu ! 1244-1250 


Ieyasu (T6sho-gu) j 1603-1605 


Yoritsune 


1226-1243 


Ieyoshi (Shintoku-In) 


1838-1853 


Yoshiaki (Reiyo-In) 


1568-1597 



70 



Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 



Yoshiharu (Mansho-In) 


1521-1546 


Yoshimochi (Shotei-In) 


1394-1423 


Yoshihide (Daichi-In) 


1568-1568 


Yoshimnne (Yutoku-In) 


1716-1745 


Yoshihisa (J6tokn-In) 


1472-1489 


Yoshinobu (Keiki) 


1867-1868 


Yoshikatsu (Keiun-In) 


1441-1443 


Yoshinori (Fuko-In) 


1429-1441 


Yoshikazu (Ch6toku-In) 


1423-1425 


Yoshinori (H6ky5-In) 


1358-1367 


Yoshiki 


1490-1494 


Yoshitane (Keirin-In) 


1508-1521 


Yoshimasu (Jish6-In) 


1449-1472 


Yoshiteru (Kogen-In) 


1548-1565 


Yoshimitsu (Rokuon-In) 


1368-1394 


Yoshizumi (H6ju-In) 


1494-1508 



TABLE IV. 

List of the Eegents (Shikken) of the H6j5 Family. 



Tokimasa 


Born. 
1136 


Died. 
1216 


Tokimune 


Apptd. 
1261 


Died. 
1284 


Yoshitoki A PP^« 


1227 


Sadatoki 


1284 


1311 


Yasutoki 1 1225 


1242 


Morotoki 


1301 


1311 


Tsunetoki 


1243 


1263 


Takatoki 1 1312 


1333 


Tokiyori 


1246 


1263 









25. — List of Celebrated Personages. 

The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book, 
and likely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of historical 
or artistic interest, may be found useful. 

Akahito (nourished circa A.D. 700), one of the earliest poets of Japan. 
His full name was Yamabe-no- Akahito. 

Antoku Tenno, an ill-fated infant Mikado, who perished at sea in 
A.D. 1185, during the civil war waged between the great families of 
Taira and Minamoto. (See also end of Route 47). 

Asahina Sabubo (end of 12th century), one of Yoritomo's doughtiest 
retainers, was distinguished by almost incredible physical strength. He 
is depicted in art as hurling great rocks with the same ease that he 
flings stalwart rivals, and as swimming with a live shark under each arm. 

Bakin (1767-1848), the greatest novelist of modern Japan. His most 
famous production is the Hakkenden, or "Story of Eight Dogs." This 
amazingly voluminous work (it fills no less than one hundred and six 
volumes ! ) sets forth the adventures of eight heroes of semi-canine 
parentage, who represent the eight cardinal virtues. 



Celebrated Personages. 



71 



Benkei, or Musashi-bo Benkei (12th century), was Yoshitsune's 
famous henchman. How many of Benkei's achievements are historical, it 
would be hard to say. According to the current version, he was eight feet 
in height, strong as a hundred men, and had even in early years performed 
so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni-uaka, " the Devil 
Youth." Having attempted to cut down Yoshitsune, then a mere stripling, 
on the Gojd bridge in Kyoto, he found in him his master in the art of 
fencing, and was made to sue for quarter. So great was the veneration 
thus inspired in his breast that he thenceforth attached himself to Yoshi- 
tsune's fortunes, and died battling in his cause. The fight between Yoshi- 
tsune and Benkei is a favourite subject with the artists of Japan. Another 
is the subterfuge by which Benkei made way for his master and their little 
band through one of the barriers where, at that time, all travellers were 
liable to be stopped. He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect 
subscriptions for the building of a new temple, and therefore privileged to 
travel free. The pictures represent him reading out his supposed 
ecclesiastical commission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were 
too ignorant of letters to discover the feint. This story is the subject of 
a popular drama called Kanjin-cho. See de Benneville's "Saitd Musashi- 
B6 Benkei." 

Buson (see p. 59.) 

Chikamatstj Monzaemon (1653-1724) was Japan's foremost playwright. 
His dramas are still immensely popular. 

Cho Denstj (see p. 57). " 

Daeuma (Sanskrit, Dharma), 
an Indian Buddhist patriarch of 
the 6th century, who sat for nine 
years in profound abstraction till 
his legs rotted away and fell off. 

Date Masamune v 1567-1636), 
Daimyo of Sendai, is chiefly re- 
membered for the embassy which 
he despatched to the Pope and to 
the King of Spain in 1614. This 
nobleman was eminent as a war- 
rior, a diplomatist, and a patron 
of learning and art. 

Dengyo Daishi (nourished 
about A. D. 800) was the first 
Buddhist abbot of Hiei-zan, near 
Kyoto. He made a long sojourn 
in China for the purpose of esoteric 
study, and brought back with him 
the doctrines of the Tendai sect. 

En no Shokaku was a famous 
Buddhist saint and miracle- worker of the 7th century, and the first human 
being to ascend Haku-san, Daisen, Tateyama, and others of Japan's highest 
mountains, it being part of his mission to bring all such remote and 
inaccessible places under the sway of Buddha. Having been slandered as 
a magician and condemned to death, he so fortified himself by the use of 
mystic signs and formulas that the swords of the executioners sent to 
behead him snapped in pieces ; but afterwards he flew away through the 
air, and was never again seen by mortal eyes. 

Enko Daishi (1133-1212) was born of respectable parents in the 
province of Mimasaka. At the age of nine, he was entered as a pupil at a 




DAEUMA. 



72 Introduction: — Celebrated Pe?*sonage$ 

seminary in bis native province ; but bis teacber, recognising bis excep- 
tional powers, sent bim up to the great monastery on Hiei-zan in 1147, 
with a letter containing only these words : " I send yon an image of tbe 
great sage Monju." On tbe letter being presented, tbe priest to wbom it 
was addressed asked wbere tbe image was, and was much astonisbed wben 
tbe cbild alone appeared before bim. But tbe young novice soon justified 
tbe implied estimate of bis great intellectual powers, and made sucb rapid 
progress in bis studies that at tbe end of tbe same year be was judged fit 
for initiation into tbe priesthood. Tbe prospect was beld out to bim of 
ultimately obtaining tbe beadsbip of tbe Tendai sect ; but be preferred to 
devote bimself to tbe study of tbeology, and finally developed a special 
doctrine of salvation, or tbe road to tbe "Pure Land," from wbicb tbe 
new sect was named Jodo, tbis word baving tbe same meaning as tbe 
Sanskrit Sukhavati or " Pure Land," tbe paradise of Amida. In 1207 be 
settled at Kyoto near tbe site of tbe present monastery of Cbion-in, and 
tbere breatbed bis last at tbe age of seventy-nine. 

Eshin (942-1017), a Buddhist abbot wbo is famous as a sculptor. 

Forty-Seven Bonins. Tbeir story, too long to be told bere, will be 
found in Things Japanese. 

Fuji war a Family. Tbis, tbe greatest of Japan's aristocratic bouses, 
traces its origin back to mytbological times. Already in tbe seventh 
century, its tben bead, Kamatari, was regent of tbe empire. Down to 
tbe middle of tbe eleventh century, its members engrossed the high offices 
of state and supplied most of tbe Mikados' consorts. Even now, nearly 
two-thirds of the Court nobility (Kuge) are of Fujiwara descent. 

Go-Daigo Tenno (reigned 1319-1339) was a Mikado celebrated for bis 
misfortunes. For about a century before bis time the throne bad been in a 
state of vassalage to the powerful Hojo "Regents" at Kamakura; and 
his endeavour to shake off their domination only resulted, after much 
shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the Old 
Islands. "When the Hojo fell in 1333 under the sword of the loyalist warrior 
Nitta Yosbisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled from exile. But tbe 
times were not ripe for the abolition of military rule, nor was Go-Daigo 
wise in bis choice of counsellors after his restoration. Ashikaga. Takauji, 
wbo bad posed as the champion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so 
much as to become Shogun bimself, and bribed tbe Mikado's concubine 
Kado-ko to poison her lord's mind against those wbo bad served bim 
most faithfully, and even against his own son, Prince Morinaga (also 
known as Oto-no-miya), who was declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at 
Kamakura, and there murdered. Go-Daigo repented of his folly and 
weakness when it was too late. Takauji left Kyoto, and the army sent to 
smite bim received such a crushing defeat that Go-Daigo was forced to seek 
safety in flight. Thereupon Takauji set another Mikado on tbe throne. 
But as Go-Daigo continued to be recognised by many as tbe rightful 
ruler, the sovereignty was split into two rival branches, called the 
Southern ^legitimate) and tbe Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty 
years of strife and misery, the Northern Court triumphed in 1392, the 
representative of the Southern dynasty handing over to it the Imperial 
regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an early period of the struggle. His Court 
— if we may so call the mountain fastness wbere be mostly encamped — 
was at Yoshino, whose position to the south of Kyoto was the origin of 
tbe epithet " Southern " applied to it by Japanese historians. 

Gyogi Bosatstj (670-749), a Korean by birth, and a Buddbist abbot 
and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only 
witb the invention of tbe potter's wheel, which was certainly used in 



Celebrated Personages. 73 

Japan before his time, but with a number of important wood-carvings and 
other works of art. The ware called after him, Gyogi-yaki, is earthen- 
ware,— dark, glossy, very solid, having wave-lines in the interior, and on 
the outside a pattern resembling the impression made by matting. He 
built bridges, opened up mountain districts, and above all he was instru- 
mental in fusing the two antagonistic religions, Buddhism and Shinto into 
a single system ^see p. 35}. 

Hachiman Taro, lit. the First-Born of the God of War, was a famous 
general at the end of the 11th century, whose real name was Minamoto-no- 
Yoshiie, and whose vigorous personality created the pre-eminence of the 
Minamoto or Genji family. He it was who conquered Northern Japan (the 
region beyond Sendai), and brought those hitherto barbarous provinces into 
permanent subjection to the Imperial sway. Artists often depict an 
episode in his career which showed his skill as a strategist, namely, his 
discovery of an ambush among the rushes, which he inferred from the 
disturbed night of the wild-geese overhead. Like many other turbulent 
spirits of that time, he forsook the world and became a Buddhist monk 
at the approach of old age. 

Hidabi Jingoro. (see p. 59). 

Hideyoshi (15. ,6-1598), commonly known as the Taikd Hideyoshi — 
the word Taikd being a title indicative of exalted rank has sometimes 
been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn the 
nickname of " Monkey Face," Hideyoshi worked his way up by sheer will, 
hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most 
trusty lieutenant; and when that ruler died in 1582, Hideyoshi, having 
slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch 
of Japan with the title of Begent [Kvcampaku), which till then had never 
been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi carried out 
many wise measures of internal policy, such_ as financial reform, the 
improvement of the great cities of Kyoto and Osaka, and the encourage- 
ment of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and rivals 
than his predecessor Nobunaga had been. His greatest failing was the 
vulgar ambition of the parvenu. His dream was to conquer China and 
become Emperor of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent 
an army across the straits to Korea under command of the celebrated 
generals Kato Kiyomasa and Konishi YuMnaga, — the latter a Christian, 
as were many of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and 
Japan nowise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawal of 
the Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow of 
his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary. 

Hishigawa Mobonobu (see p. 58). 

Hitomaeo (nourished circa A. D. 700) was one of Japan's earliest 
great poets, and the rival of Akahito. His full name was KaMnomoto-no- 
Hitomaro. 

Hojo Family. Established first at Hojo, then at Kamakura in Eastern 
Japan, this family governed the empire as military regents from 1205 to 
1'3'dd under the nominal rule of Shoguns living at Kyoto. Hojo Tokimune 
made his rule (1^61-1281) illustrious by the repulse of the Mongol fleet 
which Kublai Khan had sent to invade Japan. 

Hokusai (see p. 58). 

Iemitsu (1601 1651 », the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, in- 
herited the administrative ability of his grandfather Ieyasu, and devoted 
his peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government established by 
that prince, including the elaborate system of espionage, touching which 
early European writers on Japan have so much to say. To him is due the 



74 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages. 

rule according to which all the Daimyos were obliged to reside during half 
the year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages during the 
other half. It was also lemitsu who suppressed Christianity as dangerous 
to the state, and closed up the country against all foreigners except the 
Dutch and Chinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki under 
humiliating restrictions. In fact, it was lemitsu who consolidated what we 
call " Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of leyasu. 

Ieyasu (1542-1616), one of the greatest generals, and altogether the 
greatest ruler that Japan has ever produced, was by birth one of the 
small Daimyos of the province of Mikawa, and a scion of the noble family 
of Minamoto. His own surname was Tokugawa. Having served under 
both Nobunaga and the Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited by the latter' s death 
in 1598 to make war on his infant son Hideyori, seized the great castle 
of Osaka, burnt the Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, 
and finally, in the year 1600, defeated all his enemies at the battle of 
Seki-ga-hara, a small village in the province of Omi, now a station on the 
Tokaido Eailway. Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head- 
quarters from Shizuoka, where they had been for many years, to Yedo, 
then an unimportant fishing- village, which he chose on account of the 
strategic advantages of its position. In 1603 he obtained from the faineant 
Court of Kyoto the title of Shogun, which was borne by his descendants 
during two and a half centuries of unbroken peace, till Commodore Perry's 
arrival in 1853 led to the revolution of 1868, and to the break-up of 
Japanese feudalism and dualism. The statecraft which caused so long a 
reign of peace under one dynasty to take the place of the secular struggles 
between petty warring chieftains, consisted principally in maintaining 
a balance of power whereby the rivalries of the greater Daimyos were 
played off against each other, and in the annexation to the Shogun' s own 
domain, or to those of his nearest relatives, of large strips of territory in 
all portions of the Empire. These served as coigns of vantage, whence, 
in those days of difficult communication, the actions of each Daimyo could 
more easily be controlled. Ieyasu held in his own grasp all the military 
resources of the country, and forced all the Daimyos to regard themselves 
as his feudatories. He likewise had the Court of Kyoto strictly guarded, 
— nominally as a protection for the sacred Mikado against rebel foes, but 
in reality to prevent His Majesty, who still retained the semblance of 
Imperial power, from endeavouring to shake off the fetters which made 
him a passive instrument in the Shogun's hands. Ieyasu furthermore 
built powerful strongholds, made new highways, established a system of 
posts, and promulgated laws, which— if we accept the theory of paternal 
government alike in politics and in the family— were very wise, and 
which were in any case far in advance of anything that Japan had 
previously known. When the government had been established on a firm 
footing in 1605, Ieyasu followed the usual Japanese custom of abdicating 
in favour of his son. He retired to Shizuoka, and spent the evening of 
his life in* encouraging the renaissance of Japanese literature which had 
just begun. To his munificence is owing the editio princeps of many 
an important work. His political testament, known as the "Legacy of 
leyasu," embodied the rules of paternal government by which his suc- 
cessors were forever to be guided ; but (owing perhaps to the circumstance 
of its having long been kept from public knowledge) its authenticity 
has been doubted. leyasu was first buried at Kund-zan, not far from 
Shizuoka, in a beautiful shrine on a castle-like eminence overlooking 
the sea. In the year 1617, his remains were removed to their present 
still grander resting-place at Nikko. The dynasty of Shoguns founded 



Celebrated Personages. 75 

by Ieyasu is called the Tokugawa dynasty, from the surname of the 
family. 

Ishikawa Goemon (end of 16th century), the most notorious of 
Japanese robbers, is credited with haying possessed the physical strength 
of thirty ordinary men. Being at last captured at the age of thirty-seven, 
he and his young son Ichiro were condemned to be boiled to death in a 
cauldron of oil, which sentence was carried out in the dry bed of the 
Kamogawa at Kyoto. In accordance with custom, the criminal composed 
a death-song, which ran as follows : 

Ishikawa ya 

Hama tw masagoiica 
Tsukuru to mo 

Yo ni nusubito no 
Tane ica tsukimaji 

which may be rendered thus, " Though the stony-bedded rivers (ishi-kavxi 
a pun on his own name) and the sand on the sea-shore come to an end, 
the line of thieves shall never come to an end." 

Ito Hieobumi (1841-1909). The greatest Japanese statesman of 
modern times. By birth a samurai of the Choshu. clan, he was imbued 
at an early age with a desire to acquire Western knowledge, and, with a 
little band of reformers, escaped to Europe in 1863. Ito took an active 
part in the struggle against the Shogunate and, after the Restoration of 
1867, in the numerous changes which crowded this new era. He became 
Minister of Public Works in the first Cabinet on Western lines, subse- 
quently four times Prime Minister, and was chiefly responsible for the 
Constitution instituted in 1889. After the war with China, 1894-5, Ito and 
Li-Hung-Chang arranged the terms of peace whereby Formosa was ceded 
to Japan. When Korea came under the protection of Japan in 1905, he 
received the appointment of Besident- General and was shortly afterwards 
created a Prince. He was murdered by a Korean fanatic at Harbin, Oc- 
tober 26, 1909. 

Iwasa Matahei (see p. 58). 

Jieaku Daishi (A. D. 794-864), a celebrated Buddhist abbot. Like 
many others of his time and profession, he visited China in quest of 
religious and magical lore. 

Jimmu Tenno, that is, the Emperor Jimmu, is accounted by the 
Japanese annalists the first human sovereign of their country, which had 
till then been ruled over by the Shintd gods. Jimmu Tenno was himself 
descended from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, and consequently semi- 
divine. The orthodox account of his career is that, starting from Kyushu 
in the extreme west of Japan, he rowed up the Inland Sea with a band 
of devoted warriors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue 
of the commission which he had received from Heaven. After much 
fighting in what are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many 
miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of one hundred and thirty- 
seven, and was buried at Kashiwabara in Yamato, where his capital had 
been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession 
is the 11th February, 660 B.C., the anniversary of which day has been 
made a public holiday, and was chosen for the promulgation of the new 
Constitution in 1889, evidently with the desire to strengthen the popular 
belief in the authenticity and continuity of Japanese history. Jimmu 
Tenno and his successors during many centuries have, however, been 
condemned as myths by competent European investigators, though it is 
allowed that the Jimmu legend may possibly be an echo of some actual 



76 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages. 

invasion of Central Japan by western tribes of adventurers in very early 
days. 

Jingo Kogo, that is, the Empress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according 
to the native annalists, from A.U. ^01 to 269, when she died at the age 
of one hundred ; but Mr. Aston, the leading authority on early Japanese 
history, while not denying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis, 
relegates most of her mighty deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend 
connected with her is that of the conquest of Korea, to which country she 
crossed over with a gallant fleet, aided by the fishes both great and small 
and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after receiving 
the abject submission of the king. During the three years of her absence 
in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojin, who is worshipped as Hachi- 
man, the God of War. Next she turned her attention eastwards, and going 
in her fleet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of Yamato, as Jimmu 
Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has been suspected that 
the two legends are but varying versions of the same story. 

Jocho, the most original of Japan's mediaeval sculptors, flourished 
during the reign of the Emperor Go-Ichijo (A.D. 1017-1036). He carved 
Buddhist subjects. 

Josetsu, (see p. 57). 

Kagekiyo (second half of 12th century) was a famous warrior of the 
Taira family, to whom various picturesque legends attach. On one occa- 
sion he disguised himself as a Buddhist priest, and took part in a grand 
temple service as an opportunity for attempting the lite of Yoritomo. 
After the ruin of his party, he put out his own eyes, in order not to see the 
triumph of the rival house of Minamoto. 

Kano, the family name of a celebrated school of painters (see p. 57). 
The Japanese custom of adoption is the key to the apparent mystery of so 
many men similarly gifted arising in one family. 

Kato Kiyomasa was one of Hideyoshi's generals in the invasion of 
Korea at the end of the 16th century, and a fierce enemy of the Christians. 
He is one of the most popular Japanese heroes, and is worshipped — chiefly 
by the Mchiren sect of Buddhists— under the name of Seisho K6. 

Kesa Gozen (12th century) is the subject of a celebrated story. 
Though she was already wedded to another, her beauty inspired an 
amorous passion in the breast of a cousin only seventeen years of age, 
who did not hesitate to demand her of her mother. Alarmed for her 
mother's safety, Kesa Gozen feigned consent to his adulterous wishes, but 
on condition that he would first kill her husband. Then taking her 
husband's place in bed, she awaited the assassin. The cousin accordingly 
entered the room at midnight, and carried into effect his murderous 
intent, but was so horrified on discovering who his victim was that he 
forsook the world and became a monk, and finally a saint under the name 
of Mongaku Shonin. 

Kiyomobi (1118-1181) was head of the great house of Taira during its 
struggles with the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of 
triumph which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. From the year 
1156 until his death, Kiyomori was all-powerful, engrossing all the highest 
offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the palace through his 
kinswomen, where boy Mikados succeeded each other like shadows on the 
throne. To suit his own convenience, he changed the capital for a time 
from Kyoto to Eukuwaia near the site of modern Kobe,— an act of high- 
handed autocracy which was bitterly resented by the courtiers and the 
nobility, whose habits were interfered with and their resources taxed by 
the double move. "While irritating the upper classes by his nepotism and 



Celebrated Personages. 



77 



overbearing demeanour, he ground down the common people by his ex- 
actions, and endeavoured utterly to exterminate the Minamoto family. 
The famous beauty ToMwa Gozen, handmaiden to Yoshitomo, was forced 
to yield to his embraces in order to save the life of her infant, the future 
hero Yoshitsune ; and every woman that pleased his fancy had to minister 
to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated with him in vain. But 
the storm did not break in his time. He died in his bed, leaving his whole 
house to perish four years later in a sea of blood. 

Koeo Daishi (774-834), the most famous of all Japanese Buddhist 
saints, was noted equally as preacher, painter, sculptor, calligraphist, and 
traveller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, he 
could hardly have graven all the images, scaled all the mountain peaks, 
confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and performed all 
the other feats with which he is popularly credited. Byobu-ga-ura, near 
the modern shrine of Kompira in Shikoku, was his birth-place. His 
conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands 
folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in A.D. 793. Various 
legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected by evil spirits 
during his novitiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa, dragons and other mon- 
sters appeared out of the sea, and disturbed him in his devotions. These 
he drove away by repeating mystic formulae called Darani, and by spitting 
at them the rays of the evening star which 
had flown from heaven into his mouth. 
At a temple built by him on this spot, he 
was constantly annoyed by hobgoblins 
who forced him to enter into conversation ; 
but he finally got rid of them by surround- 
ing himself with a consecrated enclosure 
into which they were unable to enter 
against his will. Having been sent to 
China as a student in 804, much as 
promising Japanese youths are sent to 
Europe or America to-day, he became the 
favourite disciple of the great abbot Hui- 
kwo (Jap. Hei-kwa), by whom he was 
charged to carry back to Japan the tenets 
of the Yogacharya, or, as it is called in 
Japan, Shingon sect, which occupies itself 
greatly with mystic formulae, magic spells, 
and incantations. Kobo Daishi returned 
home in 806, bringing with him a large 
quantity of Buddhist books and devotional 
objects, and in 810 was installed as abbot 
of Toji in Kyoto. A few years later he founded the great monastery of 
Koya-san in Kishu, where he spent the closing days of a life of incessant 
toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into a vaulted 
tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah. 
Among the innumerable great deeds with which this saint is credited, is 
the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted that the name 
Kobo Daishi (lit. the Great Teacher Spreading Abroad the Law) is a 
posthumous title conferred on him by the Emperor Daigo in the year 921. 
His name while alive was Kukai. 

Kobori, lord of Enshu (1577-1645), courtier to Hideyoshi and Ieyasu, 
was the highest authority of his age on the tea ceremonies (cha-no-yu) and 
all the cognate aesthetic pursuits which that term sums up to the Japanese 




KOBO DAISHI. 



78 Introduction r— Celebrated Personages. 

mind, — curio-collecting, for instance, and the laying out of landscape 
gardens. The still existing school of flower arrangement (Enshil-ryu) 
derived from him distinguishes itself from others by its greater elaborate- 
ness and artificiality. 

Kojima Takanoei, also called Bingo-no-Saburo, was a high-born 
warrior of the 14th century, celebrated for his romantic loyalty to the 
Emperor Go-Daigo. When that ill-fated monarch was being carried off to 
exile by the minions of the usurping house of Hojo. the faithful young 
soldier endeavoured to rescue him on the road. Having failed not only 
in this, but even in gaining access for a moment to his masters person, 
Takanori hit on a method of communication characteristically aesthetic and 
Japanese. Stealing at night ! into the garden of the inn where the Imperial 
party had halted, he scraped part of the bark of a cherry-tree bare, and 
on it wrote the following line of poetry : 

which, being interpreted, signifies 

" Heaven ! destroy not Kosen, 
For he is not without a Hanrei !" 

the allusion being to an ancient Chinese king, who, after twenty years of 
warfare, was at length helped to victory by the prowess of a faithful 
vassal. When day broke, the soldiers, seeing the writing, but being too 
ignorant to decipher it, showed it to their Imperial captive, who at once 
understood that it referred to himself and was meant to intimate that 
faithful friends were at hand. The choice of a cherry-tree was not the 
least significant part of the deed ; for that tree is in Japan the emblem 
of patriotism and loyalty. Later on, Takanori died fighting for his 
sovereign, and artists still love to reproduce that scene of his life in which 
loyalty and delicacy were so well combined. 

Komachi (full name Ono-no-Komachi), the most famous of Japan's 
many poetesses, seems to have flourished in the second half of the 9th 
century, and left a lasting impression on the national mind by her beauty, 
her talents, and the miserable old age which was the reward of her pride 
and frailty ; but nothing certain is known of her career. Every branch 
of art borrows motives from Komachi's life. " She is shown," says 
Anderson, " in her days of pride and luxury, drawing rain down upon 
the parched earth by the numbers of her magic verse, bringing to shame 
the rival who sought to fasten upon her the stigma of plagiarism and 
falsehood ; courted by the noblest of the brilliant band that surrounded the 
throne, — and again, without a step of transition, old, enfeebled, clad in 
unclean rags, begging her way from door to door until she died, rotted, and 
became the food of dogs on the highway — a moral illustration of the 
Buddhist text, 'All is vanity,' that the artist never tires of repeating, 
and sometimes elaborates with sickening detail." 

Korin (see p. 58). 

Kose-no-Kanaoka (see p. 56). 

Kumagai Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the 12th century, 
took his surname from the town of Kumagai in the province of Musashi, 
which he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most striking incident in 
his life was his encounter with Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not 
far from Kobe, in the year 1184. Atsumori was a delicate young nobleman 
of the Taira family, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of 
Fukuwara had been taken by the Minamoto, sought safety like the rest of 
his kindred in flight on board a junk, but being pursued by Kumagai 
Naozane, had to fight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, 



Celebrated Personages. 79 

tearing o&. his helmet the better to sever his head, beheld the youthful face 
and was struck with pity and sympathy, his own son having fallen earlier 
in the d iy. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life might only 
cause him to fall into more ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion,, 
and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his 
first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while 
Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear 
arms, but to forsake the world and spend the remainder of his days in 
praying for the soul of the fair youth whose life he had so unwillingly 
taken. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils 
which he had gained, and after the conclusion of the war went to Kyoto 
and entered the cloister of Kurodani, where numerous relics of him are 
shown to this day. The story has been dramatised under the title of 
Atsumori. 

Kusunoke Masashige, also called Nanko (first half of 14th century), is 
celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving loyalty to the throne. 
Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the 
house of Ashikaga might have been crushed. As it was, Masashige was 
unequally pitted against a superior foe ; and when his army had been 
annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa near the modern city of Kobe, 
in 1338, he and a little band of personal followers committed haraMri 
rather than surrender. A scene which painters often delineate is Masa- 
shige, about to die, presenting to his young son a scroll containing the 
Imperial acknowledgment of his doughty deeds. 

Kyosai (1831-1890), an artist noted for vigorous drawing and for 
caricature. 

Masakado (killed A.D. MO) was the most celebrated of Japanese 
rebels, and the only one who ever went so far as to arrogate to himself the 
title of Mikado. For details, see under Narita (Route 5, Sect. 11), and the 
temple of Kanda Myojin in Tokyd. 

Masamune, the name of a celebrated family of swordsmiths, of whom 
the most eminent was Masamune Goro Nyudd, who flourished circa 
A.D. 1300. 

Meiji Tenno (1853-1912) is the posthumous title of the Emperor 
Mutsuhito, to whose manifold virtues all the achievements of the late reign, 
— the most momentous in Japan's history — have been ascribed by a loyal 
and devoted people. His remains were conveyed to Momoyama near Kyoto 
amidst universal mourning in which distinguished envoys from all the 
great powers took part. 

Michizane (see Tenjin). 

Minamoto or Genu Family. Sprung from a Mikado of the 9th 
century, this family produced an exceptional number of eminent men. It 
fought with and triumphed over its rivals, the Taira, in the 12th century, 
when its head, Yoritomo, was made Shogun. Apart from two or three 
Imperial princes, no other family ever claimed that office ; the Ashikaga 
and Tokugawa lines of Shoguns were all of Minamoto blood. 

Mito Komon (1622-1700), second Daimyo of Mito, a near relative 
of the Tokugawa Shdguns, helped greatly though unwittingly to the 
final overthrow of their house, and of the whole feudal system a century 
and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Dai Kihon 
Shi, which first reminded thoughtful men that the Shoguns were usurpers, 
and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also patronised the 
new school of Shinto literati, whose studies led them, and finally the 
majority of the educated public, to endeavour to bring back the state of 
things supposed to have existed in pre-Buddhistic and pre-feudal days. 



80 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages. 

Popular tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful undertakings, such 
as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river at Kdnodai, and to 
find the bottom of the kaname-ishi at Kashima, which is supposed to be 
the pivot of the world. 

The succeeding Daimyns of the house of Mito inherited the literary 
and political views of their great ancestor. As late as 1840, the then 
prince, " tired of preaching Shinto and of persuading the Shogun to hand 
over his authority to the Mikado, resolved to take up arms and to try 
the wager of battle. To provide the sinews of war, he seized the Buddhist 
monasteries, and melted down their enormous bronze bells, and cast them 
into cannon. By prompt measures the Shogun suppressed his prepara- 
tions for war, and impiisoned him for twelve years, releasing him only in 
the excitement consequent upon the arrival of Perry/' * The son of this 
stout old imperialist became the last of the Shoguns, and accomplished 
what his ancestors had laboured for, by the voluntary surrender of his rank 
and power to the Mikado. 

Mongaku Shonin (see Kesa Gozen). 

Motooei Noeinaga (1730-1801) was the prince of Japanese literati. 
A pupil of the scarcely less distinguished scholar Mabuchi, he continued 
Mabuchi's work of investigating Japanese antiquity, bringing back into 
literary use the pure ancient Japanese language, restoring the Shinto 
religion to the supremacy of which Buddhism had robbed it,— in a word, 
emphasising and exalting everything native as against that part of 
Japanese civilization which was new and of extraneous origin. The resto- 
ration of the Mikado to the absolute authority which centuries before had 
been usurped by the Shoguns, was naturally a prime object of the endeav- 
ours of a man to whom antiquity and perfection were convertible terms, 
and in whose belief the Mikado was really and truly a descendant of the 
Goddess of the Sun. Motoori and his school thus became to some extent 
the authors of the revolution which, half a century later, overturned the 
Shogunate and brought the Mikado forth from seclusion to govern as well 
as reign. In recognition of these services, divine honours have been 
conferred both on Motoori and Mabuchi by the late Emperor. Motoori's 
works were very numerous. The greatest is his elaborate commentary 
on the Kojiki, called Kojiki' Den, which is practically an encyclopaedia of 
ancient Japanese lore, written in a style as clear as it is elegant. The 
printing of the forty-four volumes of which it consists was not concluded 
till 1822, long after the author's death. 

Mueasaki Shikibu (flourished circa A.D. 1000} was a Court lady, and 
the most celebrated of Japanese romance- writers. Her chief work is the 
Genji Monogatari. 

Naeihira (A.D. 825-880), the Don Juan of ancient Japan. His 
adventures are recounted in the Ise MonogatarL 

Nichiren was born at Kominato in the province of Awa, not far from 
modern Tokyo in A.D. 1222. At the age of twelve, he became an acolyte 
of the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and was admitted to the priesthood 
three years later. Shortly afterwards, he adopted the name by which he 
is known to history. It signifies " Lotus of the Sun," and is derived from 
a dream which came to his mother of the sun on a lotus-flower, in con- 
sequence of which she became pregnant. He acquired a thorough 
knowledge of the whole Buddhist canon by means of a miracle, and met 
in the course of his studies with words which he converted into the 
formula Namu Mybho Renge Ryo, " Oh, the Scripture of the Lotus of the 

* Griffis's Mikado' slEmpire* 



Celebrated Personages. 



81 



Wonderful Law !" — a formula which is still constantly used by his 
followers as an invocation, and which is to be seen carved on stones all 
over the country in the eccentric calligraphy {hige-daimoku) represented in 
the accompanying illustration. 

Having excited the wrath of the Regent Hojo Tokiyori by the unspar- 
ing manner in which he attacked other * sects, he was banished to the 
peninsula of Izu in 1261, but pardoned soon after. Ten years later, his 
enemies persuaded the Regent Tokimune that Nichiren's doctrines tended 
to subvert the state. He was seized and thrown into a cave with his six 
chief disciples, and condemned to be 

beheaded the same night, but when r -~ ^ 

brought to the place of execution, 
was saved by a miracle, the execu- 
tioner's sword failing to act on the 
head of so holy a man; and Toki- 
mune, warned in a dream, spared 
his life. Nichiren was, however, 
banished to the island of Sado in 
the north, but was permitted in 
1274 to return to Kamakura, then 
the military capital of Eastern Japan. 
He next retired to live among the 
mountains of Minobu in a hut, which 
he quitted in order to take up his 
abode with the lord of the manor, 
Nambu Rokur5, a devotee so zealous 
that he bestowed on the saint and 
his sect forever all the lands in his 
possession. As crowds of disciples 
nocked to Nichiren for instruction 
in the faith, he erected a small 
shrine, which became the nucleus 
of the now famous monastery of 
Minobu. In 1282, feeling that death 
was approaching, he removed from 
Minobu to Ikegami, near the modern 
city of Tokyo, and there died. His 
body was cremated on the spot, and 
the bones were conveyed to Minobu, 
only a smail portion being retained 

at Ikegami as a precious relic. His zeal and his intolerance appear to have 
been inherited by his spiritual children ;— the Nichiren-shu, or Hokke-shu 
as the sect derived from him is also called, having pushed the odium 
theologicum to a degree otherwise rare in Japan. The chief outward and 
visible— or rather audible— sign of their temples is the drum, which the 
faithful beat for hours together to keep time to their chanting of the sacred 
formula Namu Myoho Benge Kyo. Nichiren's crest is the orange-blossom 
(tachibana). 

Nitta Yoshisada, a warrior of the 14th century, famed for his courage 
and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurping families 
of H6j5 and Ashikaga. An incident in his life which artists love to depict 
is that related at the end of the description of Kamakura, in Route 2. 

Nobunaga,* properly Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582), was a warrior who, in 

* This article is borrowed almost verbatim from Grims's Mikado's Empire, Chap. 
XXIII. 




l 



iSSZZZZ 



HIGE-DAIMOKU. 



82 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. 

the general scramble for land and power which went on in the latter half 
of the 16th century, gained possession of the provinces of Suruga, Mino, 
Omi, Mikawa, Ise, and Echizen. Haying next taken Kyoto, he built the 
stronghold of Nij5, and sided with Ashikaga Yoshiaki, who by his influence 
was made Sh5gun in 1558. Six years later, the two quarrelled. Nobunaga 
arrested and deposed Yoshiaki; and the power of the Ashikaga family, 
which had lasted two hundred and thirty-eight years, came to an end. 
By the aid of his generals Hideyoshi and Ieyasu, he brought large portions 
of the empire under his sway, but never obtained the title of Shogun, 
which custom had limited to members of the Minamoto family, whereas 
Nobunaga was of Taira descent. Though a great soldier, Nobunaga lacked 
the administrative ability to follow up and consolidate the advantages 
gained in war. Consequently, when he was assassinated by an offended 
subordinate named Akechi, his power died with him. Nobunaga was a 
bitter foe to Buddhism. Among his many acts of violence, was the 
destruction of the great monastery of Hiei-zan near Kyoto and of the 
Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which occasions frightful scenes of 
massacre ensued. On the other hand, he encouraged the Christians ; but it 
is not to be supposed that a man of his stamp did so out of any appreciation 
of their theological tenets. He is now worshipped as a Shinto god. 

Oda Nobunaga. See Nobunaga. 

Oguei Hangwan (15th century) and his faithful wife or mistress, 
Terute Hime, belong rather to romance than to sober history. Bobbers 
having plotted to drug him with sake and murder him during the night, 
she — at that time one of the courtesans of the village, who had been 
invited to assist in the revels— informed him of the plot. Vaulting upon 
the back of a wild horse found in a thicket close by, he escaped to 
Fujisawa on the Tokaido, where his tomb and Terute Hime's are still 
shown. On another occasion, his enemies decoyed him into a poisonous 
bath which produced leprosy ; but Terute Hime wheeled him in a barrow 
from Kamakura all the way to the hot springs of Yunomine in Kishii, 
where a single week's bathing restored him to health and strength. 

Okyo (see p. 58). 

Bai San-yo (1780-1832) was an excellent poet in the Chinese style and 
a great traveller, but above all a historian. His chief work, the Nihon 
Gwaishi, which treats in detail the period from the middle of the twelfth 
to the beginning of the eighteenth century, was published in 1827, and is 
still widely read. Its strongly pronounced imperialism has contributed 
more than anything else to mould the opinions of the governing class 
during the last two generations. 

Saig5 Takamoei (1827-1877), a samurai of Satsuma, whose youth coin- 
cided with the closing years of the Japanese ancien regime, conspicuously 
distinguished himself on the Imperialist side. Before the triumph of the 
latter he was thrice exiled to Oshima in Luchu, as a political suspect ; 
but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed 
so materially as to earn the title of Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial 
forces, he became one of the most important personages in the state. 
His programme, however, was no radical one. When his colleagues in 
the government showed that their aim was not, as had at first been 
asserted, a return to the Japan of early historic days, but the complete 
Europeanisation of the country and the abandonment of national usages 
and traditions, Saigd broke with them, and retired to the city of Kagoshima 
in Satsuma, where he founded a military school, to which all the ardent 
youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The influence of this 
school precipitated the inevitable conflict between the old and the new 



Celebrated Personages. 88 

order of ideas. It broke out in 1877, and is known to history as the 
Satsuma Rebellion. After a struggle of several months, the Imperialists 
triumphed, and Saigo himself fell on the 2ith September, as did the whole 
of the little band of five hundred that had remained faithful 1 to him till 
the end. Saigo's reputation never suffered in public esteem; and even 
the Imperial Court now respects his memory, the ban of degradation 
having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-in-Chief re- 
instated posthumously in all his honours. The visit of the Czarevitch 
(the present Czar) to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a wild 
notion according to which Saigo had, like Yoshitsune centuries before, 
escaped to Siberia. 

Saigyo Hoshi (died A.D. 1198) was an eccentric monk and famous 
poet. 

The San-ju-rok-ka-sen, or Thirty-six Poetical Geniuses, flourished 
during the 8th, 9th, and 10th centuries. The grouping of their names in 
a galaxy is attributed to a court noble of the 11th century, named Kintd 
Dainagon. Their portraits, which were first painted by Fujiwara-no- 
Nobuzane about A.D. 1200, frequently adorn the walls of Ryobu Shinto 
temples. A complete list of their names will be found in Anderson's 
interesting Catalogue of Japanese and Chinese Paintings. 

Sei Shonagon (circa A.D. 1000), a Court lady celebrated in Japanese 
literature for her volume of miscellanies, entitled Makura no Soshi. 

Sen-no-Rikyu (1521-1591) is revered as a legislator of taste, especially 
in such thoroughly Japanese arts as flower arrangement and the tea 
ceremonies.* He began his aesthetic career at the age of seventeen, and 
became a great favourite with Hideyoshi, accompanying that general in 
his campaigns to preside at tea parties in the intervals of battle. As a 
connoisseur in articles of virtu, he amassed a large fortune by dishonest 
means, passing off new things as old, spurious as genuine. Hideyoshi at 
last grew tired of him, and matters were brought to a climax when Sen- 
no-Rikyu refused to give up to this all-powerful patron his lovely daughter, 
who was already betrothed to another. Orders were sent to him to commit 
harakiri, which he did in his tea-room after making tea, arranging a 
bouquet, and composing a Buddhist stanza. 

SEssHtf (see p. 57). 

Shinran Shonin (1173-1262) was the founder of the powerful Ikko 
sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid temples, 
known by the name of Hongwanji or MonzeM, are among the finest 
specimens of Japanese architecture. Hon-gwan-ji means " the Monastery of 
the Real Vow," in allusion to the vow made by Amida that he would not 
accept Buddhahood unless salvation were made attainable by all who 
should sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, and signify that 
desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a passage in a 
Buddhist scripture where this vow is recorded that the peculiar doctrine 
of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved by 
faith in the merciful power of Amida, and not by works or by vain repeti- 
tion of prayers. For this reason, and also because its priests are permitted 
to marry, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of Japan. 
In the year 1602 political reasons caused a split in the sect, which since 

that time has been divided into a Western and an Eastern branch 

Xishi Hongwanji and Higashi Hongwanji, — each branch owning a temple 
in every considerable city. Shinran Shonin was descended from the 
Imperial family. The abbots of this sect therefore bear the title of 

*8ee Things Jajpanet* 



84 Introduction :— Celebrated Perwn&ges. 

Momeki, or Imperial Offspring, while the walls enclosing its temples are 
allowed the suji-kabe or snji-bei,— striped plaster ornamentation otherwise 
reserved for buildings inhabited by Imperial princes (see illustration on 
p. 95). Shinran Shdnin has been honoured by the bestowal of the 
posthumous title of Kenshin Daishi, that is, " the Great Teacher who Sees 
the Truth." 

ShodS Sh5nin. See under Nikko, Eoute 16. 

Shotoku Taishi (572-621), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism, 
was son of the Emperor Yomei and Kegent under the Empress Suiko, 
but never himself actually ascended the throne. He founded a large 
number of monasteries, framed a code of laws, and is said to have 
introduced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed 
author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which Anderson, however, 
inclines to consider apocryphal. A favourite art-motive is the victory of 
Shotoku Taishi over Mononobe-no-Moriya, who championed the old native 
Shinto religion as against the Buddhist innovators. He even went so far, 
on the Emperor Yomei' s death, as to set up a candidate for the Imperial 
crown, of whom ShStoku Taishi, and his minister Soga-no-Umako disap- 
proved. An appeal to arms having been made, the Shintoists were beaten 
and Mononobe-no-Moriya was killed. 

Shubun (see p. 57). 

S5ami (second half of the 15th century), a celebrated dilettante and 
favourite of the Sh5gun Yoshimasa. Many of the noted landscape gardens 
of Kyoto were designed by him. 

So<3A Kyodai, that is, the Soga Brethren Jurd and Goro, have re- 
mained national heroes on account of the pious vendetta which they 
executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Yoritomo at the base of Fuji, 
in the year 1193, on Kudo Suketsune, the murderer of their father. Jurd 
perished in the attempt, while Goro was captured, brought before 
Yoritomo, and condemned to have his head hacked of? with a blunt sword. 
Together with their names_ has been preserved that of Tora Gozen, a 
courtesan of the town of Oiso on the Tokaidd, who was the younger 
brother's mistress, and who, no less faithful than fair, aided him in his 
revenge and became a nun after his death. 

Sosen (see p. 58). 

The Taika or Heike family, descended from a Mikado of the 9th 
century, were all-powerful during a portion of the 12th century, when 
they succumbed to their rivals the Minamoto. This feud is as celebrated 
in Japanese history as the Wars of the Koses are in that of England. See 
also Kiyomori p. 76 and end of Route 47. 

Takauji (1305-1356), founder of the Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 
(see Go-Daigo Tenno, p. 72). 

Takeda Shinoen (1521-1573) was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains 
of the lawless times that preceded the establishment of the Tokugawa 
dynasty of Shoguns. The eldest son of his father, lord of Koshu, it was 
his fate to be unjustly passed over by that father in favour of his second 
brother; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to 
live in safety. When, however, both youths had reached man's estate, 
Takeda Shingen's superiority in skill and courage gained all the warriors 
over to his side, and he succeeded his father without demur. His 
whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbour- 
ing provinces of Central and Eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi 
Kenshin, lord of Echigo. Their most famous battle was that of Kawa- 
naka-jima. In middle life he became converted to the doctrines of the 
Tendai sect of Buddhism, built a temple to the god Bishamon ; did public 



Celebrated Personages. 85 

penance, abjured the eating of fish, and all female companionship ; and 
went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of archbishop ; — for 
what ecclesiastical authorities were going to refuse anything to a zealot 
who disposed of so many soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce his 
grand passion, war, but kept on fighting till the end, his latter years being 
much disturbed by the consciousness of the growing power of leyasu, and 
being divided between quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain. 
When mortally wounded, he left orders with his successor to hold no 
funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a profound secret 
for three years, and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa, enclosed 
in a stone coffin. This was in order to prevent his numerous foes from 
taking heart at the news of his decease. His last will and testament was 
only partially obeyed; for though his death was kept secret as long as 
possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried at the temple of 
Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kofu. The place still exists, the 
temple garden being a tasteful specimen of rockery on a large scale. 
Brave but superstitious, Takeda Shingen was also an adept at governing 
men. His people loved and respected him, as was shown by the fact that 
none ever rebelled against him, even in that turbulent age when every 
man's hand was against every man. 

Take-no-ttchi no Suktjne, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have 
lived two hundred and fifty-five years (according to others, three hundred 
and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikados. His birth is 
supposed to have taken place about 200 B.C. 

Tametomo, a legendary hero of the 12th century, mighty with the 
bow. Being taken captive, he was exiled to Oshima (Yries Island), and 
the sinews of his arm were cut. Nevertheless, his prowess remained un- 
impaired, and his last exploit was to send the enemy's ship to the bottom 
with a single shaft. This incident forms a favourite art motive. 

Tamtjba-mabo (died A. D. 811) was the bravest and most successful 
generalissimo [Shogun) of his time. He subdued the Ainos, who then 
inhabited the northern portion of the Main Island almost as far south as 
Sendai. 

Toba Sojo (see p. 57). 

Tobi Busshi (see p. 59). 

Tobh Family (see p. 58). 

Toyokuni (see p. 59). 

Tsubayuki (881-946), a Court noble who was one of Japan's greatest 
classic poets. He was also her first prose writer ; the works by which he 
is best known being the Tosa Nikki, a charmingly simple and life-like 
account of his voyage home to Kyoto by junk from Tosa, where he had 
been governor, and the extremely elegant Preface to the Kolcinshii, or 
" Odes Ancient and Modern," of which he was one of the editors. 

Uesugi Kenshin (1530-1578) was one of the representative men 
of his turbulent and superstitious century. A cadet of an ancient and 
powerful family, he had been entered as an acolyte in a Buddhist temple, 
but emerged from retirement to seize the paternal inheritance from the 
feeble grasp of an elder brother. To the family domain of Echigo, he 
added Etchu, Noto, and Sado, together with portions of several other 
provinces, rivalling not only Takeda Shingen, the famous lord of Koshu, 
but the great Nobunaga himself. He was as noted for high principle as 
for prowess in war, and, regarding himself as a priest to the end, never 
married and so left no successor. He is represented in art holding in his 
hand a bamboo stick with which he was wont to direct his men in the field, 
instead of with the war-fan then usual. 



86 Introduction .-—Celebrated Personages. 

Unkei, a famous mediaeval sculptor of Buddhist images. 

Ueashima Taeo, the Japanese Eip Van Winkle, is said by the national 
historians to have left Japan in A. D. 477, and to have returned in 825. 
His legend takes a hundred forms. A celebrated and very ancient ballad 
on the subject will be found in Chamberlain's " Japanese Poetry." 

Yamato-take no Mjkoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor 
Keiko, was a mighty hero of the prehistoric age. While yet a stripling, he 
was sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan. In order 
to accomplish this end, he borrowed the gown of his aunt who was high- 
priestess of Ise, and, thus disguised, made the rebel chieftains fall in love 
with him while carousing in the cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly 
drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote them to death. He next 
subdued the province of Izumo, and finally conquered Eastern Japan, 
which was at that time a barbarous waste. After many adventures both 
warlike and amorous, he died on the homeward march to Yamato, where 
the Emperor his father held Court, and his tumulus is shown at Noboro 
in the province of Ise. 

Yoeitomo (1147-1199) was the founder of the Shogunate,— the first 
Japanese Mayor of the Palace, if one may so phrase it. A scion of the 
great house of Minamoto, as shrewd and ambitious as he was unscrupulous 
and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an early age, and barely escaped 
death as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful minister, 
who belonged to the rival house of Taira. Kiyomori's exactions having 
roused the indignation of the whole empire, Yoritomo saw that the 
moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the 
malcontents eagerly flocked to his standard; and first in Eastern Japan, 
then at Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near 
Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritomo defeated the 
Taira and utterly exterminated them, putting even women and children 
to the sword. Yoritomo established his capital at Kamakura, which soon 
grew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the administration by the 
appointment of military governors chosen from among his dependants 
to act conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations 
from the Mikado ; by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable 
into his own treasury, and by other far-sighted innovations made in the 
interests of a military feudalism. At last in 1192, he obtained - in other 
words forced - from the Court of Kyoto the title of Sei-i Tax Shdgun, that 
is "Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo," which soon came to denote the 
military or actual ruler of the country, as distinguished from its theoretical 
head, the heaven-descended Mikado. Yoritomo, whose life had been spent 
fighting, died peacefully in his bed. Among the many on whom he 
trampled to satisfy the dictates of personal ambition, was his brother 
Yoshitsune, a far nobler character. Though Yoritomo's system of govern- 
ment remained in vigour for well-nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped 
from his own family in the generation following his death, his sons Yoriie 
and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an 
early age. 

Yoshimasa (1436-1490), eighth Shdgun of the Ashikaga dynasty, was a 
munificent patron of the arts. 

Yoshitsune (b. 1159), also called Ushi-waka, was younger half-brother 
to the first Shdgun Yoritomo, being the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful 
concubine named TokLwa Gozen. By yielding to the wicked desires of the 
tyrant Kiyomori, Tokiwa obtained pardon for her son on condition that 
he shaved his head and became a monk. Accordingly he was placed in 
the Buddhist monastery of Kurama-yama near Kyoto. But theological 



Population of the Chief Cities. 



87 



exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan 
in company with a friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himself 
by the valour with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying 
several with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of 
age. When Yoritomo rose in arms against the Taira family, Yoshitsune 
naturally joined him, and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real 
guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder 
brother. l r oritomo, far from feeling any gratitude, began to burn with 
jealousy and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went so 
far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern 
Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and 
killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-gawa, his head 
being sent to Yoritomo at Kamakura, preserved in sake. Others say that 
he committed 7iarakiri when he saw that all was lost, having previously 
slain his wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he 
escaped to Yezo, and then re-appeared on the mainland of Asia as 
Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity 
between the Chinese characters used to write the names of these two 
famous men; but it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune 
remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Y r ezo. Probably in his 
time, some of their race still lingered in the extreme north of the main is- 
land, where he may actually have come in contact with them. To the 
Japanese his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. 
The traveller will often hear mentioned in connection with the name of 
Y T oshitsune those of Benkei (p. 71) his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the 
traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him. 



26. — Population of the Chief Cities. 



Akita 


36,300 


Aomori 


47,200 


Fukui 


50,400 


Fukuoka ... *,. 


82,100 


Fukushima 


33,000 


Gifu 


41,500 


Hakodate 


87,900 


Himeji 


41,000 


Hirosaki 


37,500 


Hiroshima 


142,800 


Kagoshima 


63,600 


Kanazawa 


111,000 


Kobe 


378,200 


Kochi 


38,300 


Kofu 


50,000 


Kokura 


31,600 


Kumamoto 


61,200 


Kure 


100,700 


Kurume 


36,000 


Kyoto 


442,500 



Maebashi 
Matsue . . . 
Matsumoto 
Matsuyama 
Mito ... 
Moji ... , 
Morioka... 
Naf a 

Nagano ... 
Nagaoka 
Nagasaki 
Nagoya . . . 
Nara 

Niigata . . . 
Okayama 
Oita 

Onomichi 
Osaka ... , 
Otarci . . . 
Otsu ... 



. 45,200 

. 36,200 

. 35,000 

. 44/200 

. 38,500 

. 55,700 

. 36,000 

. 47,600 

. 39,200 

. 35,400 

. 176,500 

. 378,200 

. 32,700 

. 61,600 

. 93,400 

. 30,000 

. 30,400 
1,227,000 

. 91,300 

. 43,000 



§8 introduction .'—Population. Christian Missions. 



Saga 

Sakai 

Sapporo,., 

Sasebo ... 

Sendai ... 

Sbimonoseki 

Shizuoka 

Takamatsu 

Takaoka 

Takasaki 

Tokushima 

Tokyo ... 



. 36,000 


Toyama 


. 61,000 


Toyohashi 


. 70,000 


Tsu 


. 93,000 


Utsunomiya 


. 98,000 


Wakamatsu 


. 58,300 


Wakayama 


. 53,600 


Yamada 


. 42,600 


Yamagata 


. 33,600 


Yokkaichi 


. 40,000 


Yokohama 


. 65,500 


Yokosuka 


2,186,000 


Yonezawa 



Total population of Japan 



... 57,400 

... 44,000 

... 41,200 

... 47,000 

... 39,300 

... 77,300 

... 37,500 

... 42,200 

... 30,700 

... 394,300 

... 71,000 

... 35,400 

50,000,000 



The census is quinquennial; the above figures are from the latest, 
taken in 1908. The increase of population is continuous and rapid. 



27. — Christian Missions. 



The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint 
Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the 
17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, small communities of believers 
survived in secret, especially in the island of Kyushu. The Catholic 
Church now has an Archbishop at Tokyo, Bishops at Osaka, Nagasaki, 
and Sendai, and an Apostolic Prefect at Kochi. The total number of 
converts is over 65,000. 

The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859, and a 
network of mission stations now covers the whole empire. The following 
are the latest statistics: — 44 missionary societies, chiefly American and 
English; 911 missionaries (including wives); 661 Japanese ordained 
ministers ; 66,952 communicants ; total membership 88,638 ; 636 organised 
churches; 1820 Sunday schools, with 96,663 teachers and scholars; 222 
other schools and kindergartens with 18,456 scholars ; 6 hospitals and dis- 
pensaries. Estimated value of mission property yen 1,883,575. 

The Orthodox Hussian Church has a mission whose headquarters are 
at Tokyo, claiming a following of over 32,000. 



Outline Tours. 



89 



28. — Outline Tours. 



1. — One Month's Tour from Yokohama:— 

Tokyo 

Kamakura and Enoshima 

Miyanoshita (visit Hakone) 

From Miyanoshita to Nagoya by Tokaidd Railway. . . 

Nagoya 

From Nagoya to Kyoto 

Kyoto 

Lake Biwa and back to Kyoto 

From Kyoto to Nara and Kobe 

From Kobe to Yokohama by steamer (by rail J day less) 

From Yokohama to Nikko by rail 

Nikko and Chuzenji 

From Nikko to Ikao via Ashio and the Watarase-gawa 

Ikao (visit Har una) 

From Ikao to Kusatsu 

Kusatsu 

From Kusatsu to Karuizawa 

From Karuizawa via My ogi-san to Tokyo 

Spare day 

Total ... 



days 
3 
1 
3 
1 

i 
1 
4 
1 
1 

i£ 

l 

3 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 



31 



With this tour may be combined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama 
(Route 8). Those who object to purely Japanese accommodation should 
omit the journey from Nikko to Ikao via Ashio, taking train instead, and 
also the visit to Kusatsu. 



2. — One Month's Tour from Kobe:— 

Kobe 

Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 

Kwansei Railway from Kyoto to Nagoya 

From Nagoya via Shiojiri and Shinonoi to Karuizawa ; 

From Karuizawa to Ikao 

Ikao 

From Ikao to Nikko via the Watarase-gawa 

Nikko and Chuzenji 

By rail to Tokyo 

T6ky5 

Yokohama, Kamakura, and Miyanoshita 

By Tokaido Railway to Kobe 

Spare day 

Total 



Asama-yama 



days 
1 
6 
1 
4 
1 
2 
2 
4 

i 
3 

1 

1 

31 



In going down the Tokaido the journey may be broken at Okitsu to 
visit the Kuno-zan tsmples and sleep at Shizuoka. 



90 Introduction: — Outline Tours. 

3.— One Month's Tour from Nagasaki;— 

clays 

Nagasaki and Onsen ( Jnzen) 4 

From Nagasaki to Kobe by steamer * ... 2 

Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 5 

From Kyoto to Nagoya by T6kaid5 Bail way 1 

From Nagoya to Miyanoshita 1 

Miyanoshita 3 

From Miyanoshita to Kamakura and Yokohama 1 

Yokohama 2 

Tokyo 2 

From Tokyo to Nikko and back 4 

Steamer from Yokohama to Nagasaki 4 

Spare days . 2 



Total 31 



4. — It frequently happens that travellers from America, en route to 
Europe via India, have only a fortnight to devote to Japan between the 
steamer that drops them at Yokohama and the next one that picks them 
up at Kobe. To such the following outline is suggested ; it entails no 
sleeping at Japanese inns : — 

days 

Yokohama { shopping, travelling arrangements) 2 

Tokyo 'sights and the theatre) 2 

Tokyd to Nikko and back to Yokohama 3 

By Tokaido Bailway to Miyanoshita, visiting Kamakura and 

Enoshima en route 1 

Miyanoshita 1 

By rail to Kyoto 1 

Kydto, Nara, and Kobe 4 



Total 14 



All the above tours are practicable for ladies. Shorter trips can easily 
be arranged by omitting certain portions of them. ' 

5. Yokohama to Miyanoshita, Hakone, and Atami. Three or four 
days. (Boutes 6 and 7.) 

6. From Yokohama to Gotemba, and round Fuji via the Lakes to 
Shoji. Thence down the Fujikawa rapids (visiting Minobu) to Iwabuchi. 
Or from Shoji to Kofu, Kajika-zawa, and thence down the rapids. One 
week. (Boutes 9 and 30.) The rapids alone may be done in two days by 
taking train direct to Kofu. 

Jl. From Yokohama to Nikko, down the valley of the Watarase-gawa 
to Omama, and back to Yokohama by rail. Five days. One day extra for 
Koshin-zan. (Boutes 16 and 18.) 

8. From Yokohama to Nikk5, Chuzenji, and Yumoto; thence over 
the Konsei-toge to Shibukawa for Ikao, and back to Yokohama by rail. 
One week. (Boutes 16, 17, and 13.) 

9. From Yokohama to Ikao, 1st day ; Ikao to Kusatsu, 2nd day ; 
Kusatsu to Shibu, 3rd day ; Shibu to Toyono and Nagano, 4th day ; from 

* Or else by the Kyfishu and Sanyo" Hallways (Btes. 60 and 47), stopping one night 
at Mlyajima. 



Outline Tours. 91 

Nagano to Myogi-san via Karuizawa, 5th day ; rail from Matsuida to 
Yokohama in 5| hrs., 6th day. One day extra for ascent of Asama-yama 
from Karuizawa. (Routes, 13, 11, and 12.) 

10. —From Yokohama to Nagano by rail, back to Shinonoi junction 
and via Shiojiri and the Central (Nakasendd) Railway to Nagoya, whence 
on to Kyoto. Five days. (Eoutes 25, 28, and 23.) 

11. — From Yokohama by rail to Kami-Suwa and Tatsuno ; and down 
the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido Railway. Four days. 
(Routes 30, and 33.) 

12. The shrines of Ise. Four days from Yokohama, or three days 
from Kobe. (Routes 23 and 34.) 

13. From Kyoto through Yamato to Koya-san, and back by TYakayama. 
Three days. ^Routes 37, 39, 40, and 36.) 

14. From Kyoto via Lake Biwa to Ama-no-Hashidate, and back by 
rail. Four days. (Routes 45 and 44.) 

15. Rough mountain tour through Hida and Etchu from Matsumoto 
to Hiryayu and Takayama ; thence down the valley of the Hidagawa to 
Gifu on the Tokaido Railway. Eight or ten days. (Route 29.) 

16. From Kobe by rail to Okayama and Uno, whence steamer to 
Takamatsu in Shikoku, train to shrines of Kompira, steamer down Inland 
Sea to Onomichi and Mivajima. Back bv rail. 3 days. (Routes 47, 52, 
and 53.) 

17. Island of Shikoku : — land at Takahama for Matsuyama and Dogo ; 
across country to Kochi ; across country to Hakuchi, whence either E. 
down rapids of Yoshino-gawa to Tokushima, or N. to shrines of Kompira ; 
Taclotsu, Takamatsu, Kobe. Ten days. Routes 52-56.) 

18. From Nagasaki to the solfataras of Unzen and back. Three days. 
(Route 58.) 

19. From Nagasaki to Kumamoto, and across Kyushu via Aso-san and 
Takeda to Beppu. Thence to Nakatsu and Moji, visiting the Yabakei 
Valley and the Rapids of the Chikugo-gawa. Ten or twelve days. (Routes 
60, 63, 66, and 61.) 

20. Moji to Kagoshima by rail, and back via Kumamoto, Takeda, etc. 
as in No. 19. Six days. One or two extra days for volcanoes en route. 
(Routes 63 and 66.) 

21. From T6ky5 by rail to Sendai, by boat to Matsushima, and back. 
Three days. Two extra days to visit Bandai-san. (Routes 69, 73, and 70.) 

22. By Northern Railway from Tokyo to Aomori, whence steamer to 
Hakodate ; rail to Sapporo and Muroran ; steamer to Aomori ; back to 
Tokyo by rail. Nikko, Bandai-san, and Matsushima may be visited on the 
way north. The return from Aomori should be varied by taking the East 
Coast Railway. A fortnight. (Routes 69, 78, 80, and 22.) 

23. For obtaining a glance at Japan's continental possessions, the 
following tour may be recommended. By steamer from Kobe to Dairen 
(Dalny) for Port x\rthur, whence by South Manchurian Railway to Mukden 
and back via "Wiju to Seoul and Fusan. Ten or twelve days. 



92 



Introduction : — Glossary. 



29 — Glossary of Japanese Woedh. 




Ai (see ayu). 

Ai-dono, a secondary deity to whom, 

in addition to the principal object 

of worship, a Shinto temple is 

dedicated. 
Ama-inu and Koma-inu, one open- 

mouthed, 

the other 

with month 

closed; bnt 

opinions 

differ as to 

which is 

which (comp. p. 38). 
Asemi, a flowering shrnb, — the 

Andromeda japonica. 
Ayu (often pronounced ai), a species 

of trout,— the Salmo altivalis. 
Bampei, a screen opposite a temple 

gate. 
Basha, a carriage. 
Bashi (for hashi in compounds), a 

bridge. 
Bosatsu, a Buddhist saint (see p. 

44). 
Bugaku, an ancient pantomimic 

dance : bugaku-dai, a stage for 

the performance of this dance. 
Buyu, a species of sand-fly, whose 

sting is very painful. 
Cha, tea: cha-dai, tea-money (see 

p. 6) ; cha-no-yu, " tea ceremo- 
nies " (see " Things Japanese ") ; 

cha-ya, a tea-house see p. 7). 
Cho, a measure of distance (see 

p. 5) ; a street. 
Dai, big, great. 
Baibutsu, a colossal image of a 

Buddha. 
Baimon, the large outer gate of the 

grounds of a Buddhist temple. 
Baishi, a great Buddhist abbot or 

saint. 
Barani, a mystic Buddhist formula 

or incantation. 
Bo, a hall, a temple. 
Bori, {for tori in compounds), a 

street. 



Ema, an ex-voto picture : ema-do, 

a temple building hung with 

such pictures. 
Eta, a pariah. 
Gawa (for kawa in compounds), a 

river, a stream. 
Gejin, the outer chamber or nave of 

a Buddhist temple. 
Gin-zan, a silver mine. 
Go, an honori- 
fic prefix. 
Go, a measure 

of capacity 

(see p. 5), and 

of distance 

(see Route 8, 

Sect. 1). 
Gohei, the em- 
blems in a 

Shinto temple 

of the ancient 

offerings of 

cloth. They 

are now usual- 

ly strips of 

white paper, 

very rarely of 

metal. 
Go-honsha, a Shinto shrine on the 

summit of a mountain. 
Goma, a Buddhist rite in 

which a fire of cedar- 
wood is burnt, and 

prayers are offered: 

goma-do, a shrine for 

the performance of this 

rite. 
Gongen, an avatar (see p. 

46). 
Gorei-ya, a mausoleum 

(of a Shogun). 
Gosho-guruma, a praying- 
wheel i see Ete. 4, under 

Asakusa Kwannon). 
Guncho, the chief official 

of a rural district. 
Gybgi-yaki, a kind of 




(GOHEI) 



rn 



i 



(PBAYING- 
WHEKL) 

ancient 



earthenware (see p. 73). 



Glossary. 



98 



Haiden, an oratory (see p. 37). 

Hakkei, eight views (see Bte. 38, 
Sect. 1). 

Hakubutsu-kican, a museum. 

Hashi, a bridge. 

Hatamoto, a vassal of the Shogun 
having a fief assessed at less than 
10,000 koku. 

Hatoba, a landing-place. 

Heiden, a building in which gohei 
are set up. 

Higashi, east. 

Hinoki, a conifer,— the Chamcecy- 
paris obtusa. 

Hojo, the apartments of the high- 
priest of a Buddhist temple. 

Hoke-kyd, the name of a Buddhist 
scripture t Sanskrit, Saddharma 
Pundarika Sutra). 

Hoko, a kind of mythological car 
drawn through the streets in 
religious processions. 

Hombb, the chief building of a 
temple, and residence of the 
abbot. 

Honden, see Honsha. 

Hondo, the principal building of a 
Buddhist temple. 

Hongvcanji, a temple of the Bud- 
dhist Monto sect (see p. 83). 

Honsha, the main shrine of a Shin- 
to temple. 

Hbshu-no-tama, a Buddhist emblem 
of uncertain 
significance, 
perhaps best 
identified with 
the nyo-i-r i n 
mentioned on 
p. 50. 

Horizon, the prin- 
cipal deity or 
image of a Bud- 
dhist temple. 

Hozo, the treasure- 
house of a temple. 

Icho, the name of 

leaves turn gold in autumn,— the 
Salisburia adiamtifolia, also call- 
ed Gingko biloba. 

Ihai, a funeral tablet. 

Ita-gaki, see p. 37. 

Iica-goya, a cave used for sleeping 
in ; ivc<i-ya t a cavern. 

Ji (in temple names), see p. 41. 




(HOSHU-NO-TAMA) 



tree whose 



Jigoku, lit. hell, hence a solfatara. 

Jikido, see p. 41. 

Jinja, a Shinto temple. 

■Taeru-mata, (lit. frog's thighs), 
pieces of timber shaped like the 
section of an inverted cup, sup- 
porting a horizontal beam. 

Kago, a kind of small palanquin. 

Kagura, a Shintd religious dance 
(comp. p. 43). 

Kaido, a highway. 

Kakemono, a hanging scroll — gen- 
erally painted. 

Kami, above, upper. 

Kami, a Shintd god or goddess. 

Kara, China; Kara-mon, a gate in 
the Chinese style; Kara-shishi, 
stone lions used to adorn temple 
grounds. They were originally 
set up at cemeteries in order to 
frighten away wild beasts, and 
prevent them from tearing up 
the dead. 

Kawa, a river, a stream. 

Kawara, a stony river-bed. 

Keyaki, a tree whose 
very hard wood is 
much prized, — the 
Zelkowa keyaki. j 

Kiku-no-mon, the 
Imperial crest 
of the chrys 
anthemum. (kiku-no-mon) 

Kiri-no-mon, the Imperial crest of 
the leaf and flower 
of the Paullownia 
imper talis. 

Kita, north. (^PP§ 

Ko, a child ; (in com- ^^y//K^ 
pounds) small. 

Koenchi, a public 
garden. 

Koku, the standard measure of 
capacity (see p. 5). Incomes were 
formerly estimated in koku of 
rice. 

Koma-inu (see ama-inu). 

Ku, an urban district: kucho, the 
chief official of a district. 

Kuda-iama, a small hollow tube 
formerly used as 
an ornament (see 
Hte. 4, under Ueno 
Museum), 




94 



hxtroduction /— Glossary 



Kuro-shio, (lit. black brine), the 
Japanese Gulf Stream. 

Kuruma, a jinrikisha. 

Kwaisha, a company, a society. 

Kican, an important building, — 
used chiefly in names of hotels, 
public halls, etc. 

Kwankoba, an industrial bazaar. 

Kybzo, a library of Buddhist sutras. 

Kyudo, an old road. 

Machi, a street, a town. 

Maga-tama, an an- 
cient form of or- 
nament »see Bte. 
4. under Ueno 
Museum). 

Makimono, a scroll (see p. 60). 

Mandara, a Buddhist picture — 
generally on a large scale and 
depicting one half of the mytho- 
logical universe. 

Manji (Sanskrit, svastika), a mystic 
diagram, ex- 
plained by 
some as the 
symbol of luck, 
by others as the 
symbol of Bud- 
dhist esoterics. 
It has been traced back to the 
Greek gammadion in Troas ante- 
rior to the 13th century B.C., and 
is supposed to have passed west- 
ward to Iceland, eastward to 
Thibet and Japan, producing the 
key pattern and other well-known 
decorative types. 

Masu, a salmon-trout [Salmo japo- 
nicus). See p. 13. 

Matsuri, a religious festival. 

Meibutsu, the specialty for which a 
place is noted. 

Mikoshi, a sacred palanquin. 

Mikoto* a title applied to Shinto 
deities. 

Minami, south. 

Minato, a harbour. 

Mine, a mountain peak. 

Mitsu-aoi,thiee leaves 
of the kamo-aoi or 
asarum, the crest 
of the great Toku- 
gawa family. 

Mitsu-domoe, a figure 
like that here re^ 





presented. Its origin and sym- 
bolic import are 

alike matters of 

debate. Besides 

the treble form 

here given, 

there also exist 

a double form 

(futatsu-domoe) 

and a single one (tomoe). 
Miya, a Shinto temple, an Imperial 

prince or princess. 
Mokusei, the Olea fragrans, — a tree 

having small, deliciously scented 

flowers of a reddish yellow colour. 
Mura, a village. 
Murodo, a hut for pilgrims on a 

mountain side. 
Mybjin, a Shintd deity. 
Nada, a stretch of sea. 
Naijin, the inner part or chancel of 

a Buddhist temple. 
Naka, middle. 
Namu Amida Butsu, an invocation 

of the god Amida, used chiefly by 

the Monto sect. 
Nembutsu, a prayer to Buddha. 
Nippon, Japan. 
Nishi, west. 

No, a species of lyric drama. 
Norimono, a palanquin. 
Numa, a marsh, a tarn. 
Nyorai, a Buddha (see p. 51). 
0, an honorific prefix. 
(in compounds , big. 
Oku, the innermost recess, behind ; 

oku-no-in, see p. 41. 
Onsen, a hot spring. 
O-Tabisho, see p. 41. 
Rakan, a class of Buddhist saints 

(see p. 51). 
Rarnrna, ventilating panels near 

the ceiling of a room, — often 

beautifully carved. 
Ri, a Japanese league (see pp. 4-5). 
Rimbb, the wheel 

of the law, used 

chiefly as an 

ornament i n 

temples dedi- < 

cated to Fudd. 
Rinzb, a revolving 

library ^see p. 

45). 
Rydbu Shinto, Bee p. 38. (bimbo) 




Glossary. 



95 



Saka, an ascent, a hill. 

Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica,— the 

sacred tree of the Shintoists. 
Saki, a promontory. 
Sammon, a large two-storied gate 

leading to a Buddhist temple. 
San (in compounds), a mountain, 

sometimes a temple. 
Sarugaku, a classical semi-religious 

dance. 
Sen, a Japanese cent, worth half of 

an American cent, one farthing. 
Shichi-do-garan, a complete set of 

Buddhist temple buildings. 
Shima, an island. 
Shimo, lower. 
Shindo, a new road. 
Shinto, the aboriginal religion of the 

Japanese 

(see p. 35). 
Shippo-no- 

mon — (lit. 

"enamel 

crest"), the 

name of a 

Japanese 

crest. 
Sotetsu, the Cycas revoluta—a tree 

resembling the 

sago-palm. 
Sotoba, see p. 42. 
Suji-bei, or Suji- 

Jcabe, a species 

of striped wall 

ornamentation 

(see p. 84.) 
Surimono, small 

colour prints of 

delicate design (soji-buij 

which are dis- 
tributed to friends or customers 

on various festal occasions. 





Tax, a kind of sea-bream, — the Ser- 
ranus marginalia . 

Take, a peak. 

Tamagaki (see p. 37). 

Tenno, an emperor. 

Toba-e, a kind of quaint coarse 
picture (see p. 57). 

Tbge, a pass over mountains. 

Tokko Sanskrit vajra), a Buddhist 
symbol, for 
whose ex- 
planation 
see p. 50. 
It has three 

forms in Japan, of which the sim- 
plest resembles one spoke of the 
"wheel of the law" (see Bimbo). 
The other forms of it are the three- 
pronged, or sanko here figured, 
and the five-pronged, or goko. 

Tori, a street. 

Torii, a Shinto gateway (see p. 37). 



- 7 

=3 £vr^: ... 



c 



-If 11 

I 


b 

I 

j 


II 

i 1 
■ (J 


i 



Li 

The left-hand illus- 
tration gives the 
Pure Shinto, that 
on the right hand the Ryobu 
Shinto, form of this structure. 

Ya (in compounds*, a house. 

Yama, a mountain, a hill, also a 
sort of religious car borne in 
certain processions. 

Zan (for san in compounds), a 
mountain, a hill. 

Zashiki, a room, an apartment. 



SECTION I. 
EASTERN JAPAN 

(Routes i — 22. 



Mau 






1* 


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4 


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\s 


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4. 


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Tanjzawayaina- 

Oyama. 



0a -y^i?4v 




'---: "'Kaswycc » ', ; 

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Tamu/d'il i % , X 
Hirahsuka, I \l U-^V \ 



^JladaTW 




H TJ 



Scale 1:350000 
V$ i 2 3 4 5 Miles 



FOR MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 



ICE TOKYO 



Hand Book for Travellers 



IN 



JAPAN. 



ROUTES. 



ROUTE 1. 

Yokohama. 

Yokohama, the place where 
most visitors first touch Japanese 
soil, is the largest of the Treaty 
Ports and practically the port of 
T5kyo. The landing-place {Hatoba) 
and the Custom-house (Zei-kwan) 
are within 5 min. drive of the 
hotels, and 10 min. of the principal 
Railway Station. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel, No. 20; 
Oriental Palace Hotel, No. 11 ; Club 
Hotel, No. 5-b, aU on the Bund, 
facing the sea; Wright's No. 40; 
Royal Hotel, No. 87 ; Hotel Belmont, 
No. 81 ; Pleasanton Hotel, No. 17 ; 
Bluff Hotel, No. 2, Bluff. 

Railway Stations and Trams.— 
Chief railway station, 10 min. by 
jinrikLsha from the Foreign Settle- 
ment ; another at Hiranuma, a 
suburb 20 min. distant, for certain 
Tokaidd trains only.— Electric cars 
ran constantly through the town and 
on to Tokyo. 

Restaurants.— {Europ. food) at the 
principal Railway Station (up- 
stairs) ; (Jap. food), Chitose, ^ in 
Sumiyoshi-ch5 Roku-chome ; Yao- 
masa, in Aioi-cho San-chome. 



Japanese Inns. — Fukui, in Benten- 
d5ri; Nishimura-ya, Takano-ya,' in 
Honcho-dori. 

Ranks. — Hongkong and Shanghai 
Bank, No. 2; Chartered Bank of 
India, Australia, and China, No. 179 
International Bank, No. 74 
Deutsch-Asiatische Bank, No. 180 
Yokohama Specie Bank (Shokiri 
Grinko, near Railway Station. 

Consulates. — American, No. 234; 
British, No. 172; French, No. 84; 
German, No. 17, Bund. 

Post and Telegraph Office. — This, 
together with the Telephone Ex- 
change, the Custom-house, and the 
Prefecture [Kencho), stands near the 
British and Ajnerican Consulates, 
on the ground between the Foreign 
Settlement and the Japanese town. 

Steam Communication. — Japan 
Mail Steamship Company [Nippon 
Yusen Kwaisha), close to the Rail- 
way Station ; Peninsular and Orien- 
tal, No. 15 ; Messageries Maritimes, 
No. 9 ; Norddeutscher Lloyd, No. 
29; Pacific Mail, No. 4 a; Toyo 
Kisen Kwaisha, No. 17; Canadian 
Pacific, No. 14 ; Great Northern, No. 
10; Northern Pacific, Dodwell and 
Co. Ltd., No. 50-b. 

Landing and Shipping Agents. — 
Nickel & Co., 40 a ; MacArthur & 
Co., No. 10; Helm Bros., No. 43. 



100 



Route 1. — Yokohama, 



Churches — Christ Church (Angli- 
can), No. 335, Bluff ; Union Church 
(Protestant), Bluff ; Roman Catholic, 
No. 44 Bluff. 

Clubs. — Yokohama United Club, 
No. 4-b ; Club Germania, No. 235 ; 
Masonic Temple, No. 78. 

Photographs of Japanese Scenery 
and Costumes ; Lantern-slides, etc. — 
Tamamura, 2, Benten-dori ; Kimbei, 
in Honchd-ddri; Farsari, No. 32; 
Ogawa, Enami, both in Benten- 
dori. 

Books and Maps. — Kelly and 
Walsh, No. 60 ; Geiser and Gilbert, 
No. 90 ; Maruya, in Benten-dori. 

Foreign Stores for Japanese 
Works of Art.— Arthur & Bond's 
Fine Art Gallery, No, 38 ; Kuhn & 
Komor, No. 37. 

Japanese Curio Dealers. — Samurai 
Shokwai, in Honcho-dori; Endo 
Art Furniture Co., 25 Uchida-cho, 
roku-chome, for carvings and 
other fine works of art ; Nakagawa, 
in Benten-d5ri; Musashi-ya, and 
Konoike, in Honcho-dori, for jewel- 
lery, ivories, silver- ware, etc.; 
Matsuishi-ya, in Honcho-ddri, for 
porcelain in European shapes ; " The 
Benten" and numerous others, 
especially in Benten-dori. (Makuzu 
Kozan's porcelain factory, outside 
the native town at Ota-mura, is 
shown to visitors.) 

Silk Stores.— lida Takashima-ya, 
81, Yamashita-ch5; Tanabe, Shobei, 
Ewata, and Shieno, all in Honcho- 
ddri; also, for_ cheaper articles, 
Yamaguchi, in Ota-machi ; Goto, in 
Benten-dori Ni-chdme. 

Embroideries, Silk and Cotton 
Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc.— Iida 
Takashima-ya, 81, Yamashita-cho ; 
Nozawa-ya, Yamamoto, Yamato, 
all in Benten-dori; Tsuru-ya, in 
Ishikawa-machi. 

Cloisonne.— Goto, in Uchida-chd 
(visitors are shown over the factory); 
Kawano, in Honcho-dori. 

Bronze,— Kakuha, in Benten-d5ri. 

Tortoise-shell— Yezaki, in Hon- 
cho-dori. 

Japanese Stationery. — Tanikawa- 
ya, in Minami Naka-ddri Itchome. 



Toys, etc. — Kitamura, in Benten- 
dori, Itchome. 

Bamboo and Bead Blinds, Cabinets, 
Artificial fiowws, Lanterns, etc. — 
Morishima, in Aioi-cho, Itchome. 

Japanese Theatres, etc. — Kiraku- 
za, in Nigiwai-cho; Hagoromo-za, 
in Hagoromo-cho. A sort of fair is 
held at night in Basha-michi-dori 
and Isezaki-cho. 

Public Garden. —At the back of the 
Settlement, behind the American 
Consulate ; Bluff Gardens, with Ten- 
nis Club ; Golf links, on the Race- 
course ; New Cricket Ground, etc. on 
the plateau overlooking Mississippi 
Bay. 

Newspapers. — " Japan Gazette," 
:i Japan Herald," "Japan Mail," 
daily; "Japan Advertiser" and 
" Japan Times," daily, " The Far 
East," weekly (published in Tokyo); 
" Box of Curios," and " Deutsche 
Japan-post," weekly. 

History. — Ancient shell-heaps and pot- 
tery, dug up near the race-course and at 
Kanagawa, show that this 'neighbourhood 
was inhabited at an extremely remote 
date; but Yokohama owes its commer- 
cial importance to the foreigners who 
have settled there. It was an insignificant 
fishing village when Commodore Perry 
anchored off it in 1854, and gave American 
names to several points in the neighbour- 
hood. When it was agreed to open a 
Treaty port in this part of Japan, the 
choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama, 
but on the thriving town of Kanagawa, 
on the opposite side of the small bay, 
now partially filled in. But the Japanese 
Government, finding Kanagawa incon- 
venient because of its situation on the 
Tokaido, at a time when collisions be- 
tween foreigners and the armed retainers 
of the Daimyos passing to and from the 
capital were to be apprehended, gave 
facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama 
instead. Thither, accordingly, the mer- 
chants, eager to open up trade, repaired 
in 1858. The consuls protested against 
the change ; but the only lasting result of 
their protest is the retention of the name 
Kanagawa in certain official documents. 
The superiority of the Yokohoma an- 
chorage doubtless reconciled the foreign 
community to the inferior position of the 
place on a mud fiat facing north. The 
greater portion of the Settlement, as it 
now exists, dates from after the fire of 
3 866; and the "Bluff," on which most of 
the well-to-do residents have their dwell- 
ings, was first leased for building purposes 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



101 



in 1867. A large and rapidly growing 
native town has sprung up outside the 
Foreign Settlement. Waterworks, open- 
ed in 1887, supply Yokohama from the 
Sagami-gawa, 28 miles distant. Harbour- 
works were completed in 1896 : electric 
trams were started in 1905. — In 1911, the 
foreign population of Yokohama, ex- 
clusive of Chinese, amounted to 3560, 
of whom 1,590 were British and 813 
American. 

It should be explained that al- 
though the streets have names, 
these are comparatively little used, 
as the numbering of the whole 
Settlement (Jap. Yamashita-cho) is 
continuous, irrespective of street 
names. A similar remark applies 
to the Bluff (Yamate-cho). 

Though Yokohama boasts but 
few sights properly so called, the 
curio-lover will here find himself 
in his element ; and to one newly 
landed, the native town, with its 
street-stalls and its theatrical and 
other shows, will afford an interest- 
ing spectacle. A visit should be 
paid to Xoge-yama, close behind the 
Sail way Station, for the sake of the 
general view of the town and har- 
bour. Here stand some small, but 
popular and representative, shrines 
dedicated to the Shinto god of Akiha, 
to Doryd, a Buddhist saint, to Fudo, 
the great Buddhist god whose chief 
shrine is at Narita (see Boute 5), 
and to the Sun-Goddess of Ise (see 
Boute 34). This last, which crowns 
the hill, is generally known as 
Daijingu. Festivals are held at 
Xoge-yama on the 1st, 15th, and 
28th of every month. The temple 
of Zotoku-in, dedicated to Yakushi 
Nyorai and situated in Moto-machi 
close to the Grand Hotel, celebrates 
its festivals on the 8th and 12th of 
the month. Near it are the Hundred 
Steps, with a small tea-house at the 
top. 

Yokohama possesses a Public 
Hall, where English theatrical and 
other entertainments are given; 
also a Bace-course where meetings 
are held in spring and autumn. The 
race- course overlooks Mississippi 
Bay whose shore affords a charming 



drive through the vill. of Negishi. 
Indeed, the whole neighbourhood 
abounds in fine landscapes. Fuji 
shows out well from the race-course, 
from the harbour, and from many 
other points. The flora of Japan 
may best be studied and specimens 
obtained at the Yokohama Nursery 
Co., 21-35, Nakamura Bluff. Stu- 
dents of zoology can procure speci- 
mens at Mr. Alan Owston's store, 
No. 224 Yamashita-cho. 

The best places to view the 
cherry-blossom (early April) are the 
Public Garden (Ko-enchi), Noge- 
YTama, Sakura-michi behind the 
Bluff, and the more distant temple 
grounds of Bukenji. The village of 
Kaicaica near Nakayama station 
is noted for its show of chrysan- 
themums, early in November. The 
fine plum and landscape garden be- 
longing to Mr. Hara, at San-no-tani, 
on Mississippi Bay, is open to the 
public. 



ROUTE 2. 

Excursions from Yokohama. 

1. kamakura and the daibutstt. 
2. enoshima. 3. dzushi, yoko- 
suka, tjraga, and misaki. 4. 
sugita and tomioka. 5. kana- 
zawa. [mine.] 6. the caves of 
totsuea. 7. oyama. 8. takao- 
zan. 9. rapids of sagami-gawa. 

1. — Kamakura is reached from 
Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokai- 
do Bailway, changing carriages (by 
some trains) afc Ofuna Junction. 
This branch line continues on to 
Dzushi and Yokosuka, being altoge- 
ther 21J miles in length.* 

Kamakura, once the populous 
capital of Eastern Japan, now a 
quiet sea-side village, is a favourite 



* It is proposed to connect Kamakura 
with Yokohama direct by electric tram. 



102 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



bathing and, health resort of the 
Yokohama and Tokyo residents. 
The pure air and its situation facing 
south with hills on the north render 
it pleasant in all seasons. The Kai- 
hin-in Hotel (Europ. style), situated 
under a pine-grove near that portion 
of the shore known as Yui-ga-hama, 
stands \ hr. by jinrikisha from the 
station. An electric tramway con- 
nects Kamakura with Enoshima (see 
p. 104) 20 min. 

Kamakura was the seat of government 
in Eastern Japan from the end of the 
12th to the middle of the 15th century. 
Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate 
in 1192, chose this place as his capital, 
and here wa3 laid the foundation of the 
feudal system of government which 
prevailed up to the year 1868. The city 
of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's 
immediate successors, extended all over 
the plain and into the recesses of the 
different i/atsu, or dells, which branch off 
from it among the hills. Kamakura was 
the scene of innumerable contests be- 
tween rival military factions, and of 
many bloody deeds. Here, on the sea- 
shore, were beheaded the Mongol ambas- 
sadors of Kublai Khan {Jap. Kop-pitsu- 
retsu), who had imperiously sent to 
demand the submission of Japan to his 
sway. The city was repeatedly sacked 
and laid in ashes, and seems never to 
have fully- recovered from the disasters 
of the year 1455. The neighbouring city 
of Odawara, which next rose into im- 
portance as the seat of the powerful Hojo 
family, attracted to itself large numbers 
of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin 
of which town was completed by the 
founding of Yedo in A.D. 1603. 

The chief sights of Kamakura 
are the Temple of Hachiman, the 
Daibutsu, or colossal bronze Bud- 
dha, and the great image of the 
goddess Kwannon. They all lie 
within a mile of the hotel. 

The Temple of Hachiman, the 
God of War, dating from the end 
of the 12th century, occupies a com- 
manding position on a hill called 
Tsuru-ga-oka, and is reached by an 
avenue of pine-trees, which leads 
up the whole way from the sea- 
shore. Though both avenue and 
temple have suffered from the rav- 
ages of time, enough still remains 
to remind one of the ancient glories 



of the place. Three stone torii 
mark the approach to the temple, 
which stands at the head of a 
broad flight of stone steps. Notice 
the magnificent ichb tree nearly 20 
ft. in circumference, said to be over 
a thousand years old. 

In A.D. 1218, the young Shogun Sane- 
tomo, having received an additional title 
from the Mikado, was about to go in 
solemn procession to return thanks at the 
temple of Hachiman. He seems to have 
had some foreboding of evil; for, before 
leaving the palace, he composed a stanza 
which may be thus rendered : 

What time its lord, hence issuing, 
All tenantless this dwelling leaves, 
Be thou still mindful of the spring, 
Dear plum-tree standing by the eaves ! 

The same morning, while he was being- 
dressed, he pulled out a hair and gave it 
to his attendant, saying : " Keep this in 
memory of me." He had been advised 
to don armour under his robes, but failed 
to adopt the precaution. The ceremonial 
was protracted till a late hour. As Sane- 
tomo descended the steps in the dark, a 
man sprang upon him from behind the 
tree, cut him down, and carried off his 
head. Though the assassin, who proved 
to be the high-priest of the temple and 
Sanetomo's own nephew, was soon dis- 
covered and despatched, the head was 
never found. So the hair which Sane- 
tomo had given to his faithful retainer 
was buried in its stead. 

Before ascending the flight of 
steps, the minor shrines to the r. 
deserve passing notice. The nearer 
one, painted red and called Waka- 
miya, is dedicatedto the Emperor 
Nintoku, son of Ojin, the God of 
War. The further one is called 
Shirahata Jinja, and is dedicated to 
Yoritomo. The style and structure 
are unusual, black and gold being 
the only colours employed, and iron 
being the material of the four main 
pillars. The interior holds a small 
wooden image of Yoritomo. 

A side path leads up hence to the 
main temple, which is enclosed in 
a square colonnade painted red. 
The temple, which was re-erected 
in 1828, after having been destroy- 
ed by fire is in the Eyobu Shinto 
style, with red pillars, beams, and 
rafters, and is decorated with small 
painted carvings chiefly of birds 



Kamakura. 



103 



and beasts. In the colonnade are 
several religious palanquins {mi- 
koshi) used on the occasion of the 
semi-annual festivals (15th April 
and 15th September, a wooden 
image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei (see 
p. 85), and various relics, including 
Yoritomo's armour and his skull 
ichen a youth. {!) 

Immediately behind the temple 
of Hachiman is a small hill, called 
Shirahata-yama , whence Yoritomo 
is said to have often admired the 
prospect. 

The Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, 
stands alone among Japanese works 
of art. 

" a statue solid-set, 
And moulded in colossal calm." 

Xo other gives such an impression 
of majesty, or so truly symbolises 
the central idea of Buddhism, — the 
spiritual peace which comes of 
perfected knowledge and the sub- 
jugation of all passion. But to be 
fully appreciated, the Daibutsu 
must be visited many times. 

Tradition says that Yoritomo, when 
taking part in the dedication of the 
Daibutsu at Xara, conceived the desire of 
having a similar object of worship at his 
own capital, but died before he could 
put the plan into execution. The exist- 
ing image, which represents Amida, 
apparently dates from A.D. 1252. It was 
originally enclosed in a building 50 yds. 
square, whose roof was supported on 63 
massive wooden pillars. Many of the 
stone bases on which they rested are 
still in situ. The temple buildings were 
twice destroyed by tidal waves, in 1369 
and 1494, since which they have not been 
re-erected, and the image has ever since 
remained exposed to the elements. 

The Daibutsu is best seen from 
about half-way up the approach. 
Its dimensions are approximately 
as follows : — 

FT. IN. 

Height 49 7 

Circumference 97 2 

Length of face 8 5 

Width from ear to ear 17 9 

Round white boss on fore- 
head 1 3 

Length of eye 3 11 



Length of eyebrow 4 2 

„ of ear 6 6 

„ of nose 3 9 

Width of mouth 3 2 

Height of bump of wisdom 9 

Diameter of bump of wisdom 2 4 
Curls (of which there are 

830): Height 9 

„ Diameter 1 

Length from knee to knee . . 35 8 

Circumference of thumb .... 3 

The eyes are of pure gold, and 
the silver boss weighs 30 lbs. 
avoirdupois. The image is formed 
of sheets of bronze cast separately, 
brazed together, and finished off on 
the outside with the chisel. The 
hollow interior of the image con- 
tains a small shrine, and a ladder 
leads up into the head. 

The Temple of Kiwnnon, known 
as Rase no Kicannon, stands not far 
from the Daibutsu oh an eminence 
commanding a beautiful view of the 
sea-shore towards Misaki, and over 
the Kamakura plain. The great 
image of the Goddess of Mercy, for 
which this temple is celebrated, 
stands behind folding-doors which 
a small fee to the attendant priest 
will suffice to open ; but the figure 
can only be indistinctly seen by the 
dim light of a few candles. It is of 
brown lacquer gilded over, and its 
height is 30 ft. 5J in. The ad- 
mirable bronze seated figure of 
Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was pre- 
sented by the Shogun Ashikaga 
Yoshimasa (p. 86). 

Close to this temple is a bold cliff 
called Inamura-ga-saki. 



In 1333, when the city of Kamakura 
was attacked by the partisans of the 
Emperor G-o-Daigo, part of the force led 
by Nitta Yoshisada advanced along the 
strand from the W. of this hill, but were 
unable to pass under the cliff owing to 
chevaux-de-frise being placed against it 
down to the water's edge, while their 
passage in boats was prevented by a long 
row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600 
yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore 
climbed the cliff, and after praying to the 
Sea-God, flung his sword into the water, 
whereupon the tide miraculously retreat- 



104 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



ed, leaving a space a mile and a half 
wide at the foot of the cliff, along which 
he marched his army into Kamakura. 

Lovers of early sculpture and 
of Japanese historical and anti- 
quarian lore, will find scattered over 
Kamakura many minor temples and 
other objects to arrest their atten- 
tion. Amongst these, the following 
may be enumerated : — 

Ennbji, small and dilapidated, but 
containing_ the celebrated image 
of Emma-O, Regent of Hell called 
Arai-no-Emma, and carved by 
Unkei. 

Legend says that Unkei, having died, 
appeared in due course before this re- 
doubtable deity, who thus accosted him : 
" Thou hast carved many images of me, 
but never a true one. Now that thou hast 
seen my face, return to earth and show 
me as I am." So Unkei, coming to life 
again, carved this image, which is, 
therefore, said to be Unkei Yomiji-gaeri 
no saku, that is «' the work of Unkei 
redivivus." 

The image is only shown on 
application to the custodian. Other 
large images line the walls, one of 
Shozuka-no-Baba (see p. 47), also by 
Unkei, being specially powerful. 

Kenchdji is situated in beautiful 
but now mostly deserted grounds, 
amidst magnificent trees, of which 
the rugged byakushin (Juniperus 
chinensis) is the most prominent 
species, and a favourite material 
with the carvers of Buddhist images. 
The gate is a huge structure. The 
main temple contains a large image 
of Jizo, and four hundred small gilt 
ones of the same divinity carved 
by Eshin. 

A very popular little shrine was 
erected in 1890 on Shbjbken, the 
hill behind Kenchdji, and attracts 
crowds of pilgrims on the 17th day 
of the month. The shrine is dedi- 
cated to a goblin called Hanzbbb, to 
whom enormous quantities of small 
paper flags are offered up. These 
line both sides of the pathway that 
leads up the hill for a distance of 5 
cho. A tea-house near the shrine 
commands a splendid view of Fuji 
and the sea. The Oku-no-in at the 



very top overlooks a maze of small 
hills and valleys in the direction 
of Yokohama. It makes a pleasant 
walk to follow the ridge of these 
hills, returning by Kakuonji, Kama- 
kura-no-Miya, and Yoritomo's Tomb; 
2J to 3 hrs. 

The ancient Temple of Kakuonji 
contains images of the Ju-ni-ten, 
nearly life-size, and very large ones 
of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikk5 Bosatsu, 
and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed 
to the chisel of Unkei. 

The Tomb ofYoritomo is a modest 
monument covered with creepers. 

The Kamakura-no-Miya was 
erected in 1869 in honour of a son 
of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called 
Oto-no-Miya, who having failed in 
his attempt to overthrow the feudal 
government, was captured, confined 
in a cave, and finally assassinated 
in A.D. 1335. The temple, which is 
in "Pure Shinto" style (see p. 38), 
stands directly in front of the cave. 

Enkakuji possesses the largest 
bell in Kamakura. This bell, dating 
from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick, 
4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about 
8 ft. high. 

Kbmybji, Eishbji, and Ju-roku-ido, 
or the Sixteen Pools, in which, 
according to an apocryphal tradi- 
tion, Kobo Daishi performed his 
ablutions, are also noted. 



2. — Enoshima. 

This picturesque spot, though 
called an island, is sometimes a 
peninsula for years at a time, ac- 
cording as tides and currents heap 
up or wash away a neck of sand 
connecting it with the mainland. 

The most direct approach from 
Yokohama is by the Tokaido Bail way 
to Fujisawa station (50 min.), 
whence electric tram to the vill. of 
Katase in 10 min., and on foot 
across the sand in 15 min. more. 

It can also be reached from 
Kamakura in 20 min. by electric 
tram along a stretch of shore called 



Enoshima. Dzushi. Yokosuka. 



105 



Shichi-ri-ga-hama* 
above. 



to Katase, as 



Half-way is the Yuki-ai-gawa, which, 
though a mere rill, deserves mention on 
account of the following incident : — 

When Nichiren was miraculously deliv- 
ered from the hands of the executioner 
at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, 
a messenger was at once despatched to 
Kamakura to ask for further orders, 
while at the same moment a reprieve 
was sent from the palace of the Regent 
Tokiyori. The two messengers happen- 
ed to meet at this stream, whence the 
name of Yuki-ai-gawa, which means 
" the River of Meeting." A stone now 
marks the spot. 

Enoshima, being a popular holi- 
day resort, is full of excellent inns. 
The best are the Iwamoto-in and 
Ebisu-ya in the vill., and the Kin- 
ki-ro higher up. There is fair sea- 
bathing. The shops of Enoshima 
are full of shells, coral, and marine 
curiosities generally, many of which 
are brought for sale from other parts 
of the coast. The beautiful glass- 
rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi), 
called hosugai by the Japanese, is 
said to be gathered from a reef deep 
below the surface ofjthe sea not far 
from the island of Oshima, whose 
smoking summit is visible to the 
south on a clear day. 

From the earliest ages the island 
was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist 
Goddess of Luck. 

Before the existence of Enoshima, so 
says the ancient legend, the site of the 
present cave was the abode of a dragon, 
which used to devour the children of the 
village of Koshigoe. In the 6th century, 
on the occasion of a violent earthquake, 
the goddess Benten appeared in the 
clouds over the spot inhabited by that 
monster; and the island of Enoshima 
suddenly emerging from the waters, she 
descended to it, married the dragon, and 
put an end to his ravages. The natives 
believe that a subterranean passage con- 
nects the cave with Euji. 

This cult has now been exchanged 
for that of three Shinto goddesses, 



* Literally, the " seven H shore," the 
ri in early times in Eastern Japan having 
consisted of only 6 cho instead of 36 cho, 
thus resembling the original Chinese li. 



to whom several of the temples 
have been re-dedicated. But the 
spot considered most sacred of all 
is the large Cave on the far side of 
the island. It is 124 yds. in depth, 
the height at the entrance being 
at least 30 ft., but diminishing 
gradually towards the interior. The 
rocks near the cave are frequented 
by divers, who for a few cents 
bring up shell-fish from the deep, 
which, however, they may be sus- 
pected of having previously con- 
cealed about their persons. 

Opposite the tram station at 
Katase stands the temple of Ryiikoji, 
founded after Nichiren's death by 
his disciples, and built on the spot 
where his execution was to have 
taken place. It possesses some fine 
wood-carvings. 

The midway station of Kugenuma 
{Inn, Asahi-kwan), on the Enoshima- 
Fujisawa electric tram line, is so 
called from a small bathing resort 
about J m. distant. 

3. — Dzushi, Yokosuka, Ueaga, 
and Misaki. 

_ Yokosuka is the terminus of the 
Ofuna branch line, and is reached 
from Yokohama in 1 J hr. The little 
line of railway passes through 
characteristically Japanese scenery, 
— wooded hills rising up abruptly 
from valleys laid out in rice-fields, 
with here and there a cottage or a 
tiny shrine half-hidden in a rustic 
bower. Kamakura is passed ; also 

Dzushi (Inn, Yoshin-tei), the 
station for a popular sea-side resort 
and for another at Hayama (Jnn, 
Kagi-ya) 1J m. distant, where the 
Crown Prince and members of the 
Japanese nobility, have villas, and 
enjoy sea-bathing and lovely views 
of Fuji. Dzushi is favoured by the 
foreign residents of Yokohama and 
Tokyo. It is also the station for the 
picturesque temple of Jimmuji, 1J 
m., whose foundation dates from 
the twelfth century. The hill just 
above the temple affords a splendid 
panorama. The train darts in and 



106 



Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. 



out of short tunnels under some of 
these hills, and passes the Torpedo 
Station of Taura, before reaching 
the sea-shore at Yokosuka. 

Yokosuka {Inn, Mitomi-ya ; 
Foreign restt., Kaiyo-ken, near the 
wharf), which but forty years ago 
was a poor village, has rapidly 
risen into importance, on account 
of the Government Dockyard estab- 
lished there. Visitors are not 
admitted, unless furnished with 
an introduction from the naval 
authorities. The town is prettily 
situated on a land-locked bay ; but 
the surrounding wooded heights 
have been cut away vertically to 
afford more flat space for the rapidly 
growing streets. Its chief interest 
for Anglo-Saxons lies in the fact that 
here lived and died Will Adams, 
the first Englishman that ever 
landed on the shores of Japan. 

Will Adams, a native of Gillinghani in 
Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch 
ships which reached the southern coast 
of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. 1600. 
Brought as a prisoner into the presence 
of Ieyasu, Adams soon won the favour 
of that astute ruler, who employed him 
both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of 
diplomatic agent when other English and 
Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams's 
constantly reiterated desire to behold his 
native land again and the wife and child- 
ren whom he had left behind, was to the 
last frustrated by adverse circumstances. 
He consoled himself by taking another 
wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived 
until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb 
of Yokosuka, where the railway station 
now stands. 

His grave and that of his Japa- 
nese wife are situated on the top of 
a hill, J hr. walk from the railway 
station. The Japanese call the place 
Anjin-zuka, from anjin which means 
" pilot," that having been the ap- 
pellation by which Adams was 
commonly known. The tombs are 
of stone, in the ordinary Japanese 
style. Will Adams's monument is 
without an inscription, while that of 
his wife bears the posthumous title 
which every Buddhist receives from 
the priest of the parish temple. Not 
only is the situation (restored by 
public subscription in 1909; of the 



graves picturesque, but the emin- 
ence on which they stand affords a 
lovely view of land and sea. A 
rest-house for visitors stands close 
by. 

Another vantage-point just out- 
side the opposite or E. end of 
Yokosuka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff 
on which stands a temple of the 
Nichiren sect. 

The distance from Yokosuka to 
Uraga is 1 ri 32 cho (4J m.) along 
an excellent road. A little more 
than half-way lies the hamlet of 
Otsu, where there is an inn, good of 
its kind, but apt to be noisy, with a 
fine beach for bathing. 

Uraga (Inn, Suzuki-ya) is built on 
both sides of a very narrow fiord-like 
harbour ; and the two divisions 
thus formed are called respectively 
Higashi- Uraga and Nishi- Uraga, 
i.e., East and West Uraga. Two 
large dry docks were opened here 
in 1899. 

In former times all junks entering the 
Bay of Yedo were detained at Uraga for 
inspection, and it was here that Com- 
modore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 
1853, bearing with him the letter of Presi- 
dent Fillmore to the Shogun, the result 
of which was to open Japan to foreign 
intercourse. The spot (Kuri-ga-hama) 
where he landed is marked by a stone 
monument erected in 1901. 

It is worth while devoting J hr. 
to the climb up Atago-yama, a hill 
at the back of Nishi-Uraga, com- 
manding a fine view of the town 
and harbour. 

Misaki (Inn, Aoyagi) lies at the 
S. tip of the peninsula of Sagami, 
4 ri 3 did (10 m.) from Uraga by 
jinrikisha. At Ko-Ajiro, on a small 
bay 1 ri to the N., stands the Marine 
Biological Laboratory [Misaki Rin- 
kai Jikken-jo), connected with the 
Science College of the Imperial 
University of Tokyo. The marine 
fauna of this district being excep- 
tionally rich in rare forms, dredging 
has produced highly interesting 
results. A lighthouse stands on the 
island of Jo-ga-shima, 1 m. from 
the mainland, with which it is 
connected by ferry- 



Sugita. Kanazawa. 



107 



There is a good road with splendid 
views from Kamakura and Dzushi 
by Hayama and along the coast, 7 
ri (17 m.). 

4.— Sugita and Tomioea. 

It is a pleasant walk or Jinrikisha 
ride of about 2 ri from Yokohama 
to Sugita (Luis, Azuma-ya and 
others) famous for its plum- 
blossoms; and 1 ri further on to 
Tomioka (Inn, Kimpa-ro), a 
favourite run for Yokohama yachts- 
men, also affording good sea- 
bathing. Tomioka may also be 
easily reached by boat from the 
Cutting at the back of the Settle- 
ment in about 40 min., the distance 
from the Settlement to the point 
where the boat is taken being ap- 
proximately 1 ri. 

5. — Kanazawa. [Mine.] 

Jinrikishas may be taken the 
whole way, two men being requir- 
ed. The total distance is 4 ri 30 
cho (11J m.), the road being flat for 
the first 6 miles as far as the hamlet 
of Seki, and after that, hilly. — 
Kanazawa may also be reached by 
the coast road via Tomioka (see 
above) on foot in 3 hrs., or most 
easily of all by the jinrikisha road 
across the neck of the peninsula 
from Kamakura (6 m.) or Dzushi 
(4 m.). 

[At the hamlet of Tanaka, 10 cho 
beyond Seki, a road practicable 
for jinrikishas, turns off r. to 
the Buddhist temple of Enkaiji 
at Mine, much frequented by 
Japanese patients for the ap- 
plication of the moxa. The 
distance from Tanaka to Mine 
is 28 cho, or nearly 2 m.] 

On reaching the crest of the 
ridge, the beauty which has led 
the foreign residents to bestow 
on this neighbourhood the name 
of the Plains of Heaven, suddenly 
reveals itself. A scene of perfect 



loveliness may be enjoyed from a 
spot called Nokendo, where stands 
a pine-tree known as the Fude- 
sute-matsu, because a Japanese 
artist of olden times here flung 
away his pencil in despair. At the 
spectator's feet is a wide, cultivated, 
valley bordered by pine-clad hills, 
and opening out to the shores of an 
inlet, whose still waters are partly 
hemmed in by small peninsulas 
and islands, with to the 1. the pro- 
montory of Kwannon-saM, and on 
the opposite side of Tokyo Bay the 
long crest of Nokogiri-yama. The 
most conspicuous of the islands 
are Natsushima (Webster Island), 
with Sarushima (Perry Island) 
beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which 
is much smaller and recognisable 
by its triangular shape. But a 
mere catalogue of names can avail 
nothing towards conveying an idea 
of the scene which might be the 
original that inspired the Japanese 
landscape-painter's art. 

Kanazawa {Inns, Chiyo-moto, 
Azuma-ya), on the shores of the 
Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for 
its Hakkei, — a characteristically 
Japanese view from a small height 
just outside the village. Close to 
the ferry, at the foot of a wooded 
hill called Nojima-yama (8 cho from 
Kanazawa), is a celebrated peony 
garden, which attracts many visitors 
during the season of flowering. 
Some of the plants are said to be 
over 300 years old. 

The whole neighbourhood affords 
delightful walks, as paths leading 
to the top of every hill command 
exquisite views. 



6. — The Caves of Totsuka. 

( Taya no Ana.) 

Though known to foreigners as 
the Caves of Totsuka, these 
caves, or rather galleries cut in the 
soft sandstone, are really nearer to 
Ofuna, the next station beyond 
Totsuka on the Tokaido Eailway, 
40 min. run from Yokohama, or 10 



108 



Route 2. — -Excursions from Yokohama. 



min. from Kamakura. They lie at 
a distance^ of 17 chb (a little over 1 
m.) from Of una station, but almost 
1 J ri from Totsuka station. Which- 
ever station one decides to alight at, 
the trip on thence can he done by 
jinrikisha. The best time to choose 
is the spring, as the cherry-trees in 
the grounds will then be seen to 
advantage. Candles are provided at 
the temple of Josenji near the en- 
trance, also cloaks to ward off any 
wet that may drip from the walls ; 
and a local guide will point out the 
Buddhist carvings with which the 
walls and ceilings are adorned. 

These caves, with their carvings, are a 
monument of modern Buddhist piety. 
Existing in embryo since the Middle 
Ages (tradition asserts them to have been 
resorted to for the concealment both 
of troops and of treasure in the 14th 
century), they have only been excavated 
to their present extent during the last 
sixty years. In the year 1851, a man 
called Sato Shichizaemon, whose family 
had for generations been rich peasants in 
this locality was urged in a dream to 
devote his life to making these caves into 
an imperishable shrine to various Bud- 
dhist divinities, and especially to the 
goddess Benten. This he accordingly did 
until his death in 1892, at the age of 81, 
employing his own patrimony for the 
enterprise and local talent for the 
carvings. 

Among the subjects pourtrayed, 
may be distinguished angels, drag- 
ons, lions, birds both natural and 
mythical, the Twelve Signs of the 
Zodiac, the Eighteen Eakan, the 
Thirty-Three Kwannon of the dis- 
trict of Chichibu, and other Bud- 
dhas innumerable. To explore the 
caves properly takes about 1 hr. 



7. — Oyama. 

This mountain, 4,100 ft. high, is 
most easily reached from Yokohama 
by alighting at Hiratsuka station 
on the Tokaido Railway, a run of a 
little over 1 hr. ; thence by jinrikisha 
to the vill. of Koyasu on the lower 
slope, whence about 1J m. on to the 
vill. of Oyama, the_ total distance 
from Hiratsuka to Oyama being 4J 



ri (11 m.). It is a favourite goal of 
pilgrims, who continue to be at- 
tracted to its shrine, although the 
old Buddhist objects of worship 
have here, as in so many other 
parts of the country, been replaced 
by comparatively obscure Shinto 
deities. 

Indeed, according to Sir Ernest Satow 
it is uncertain who these gods are; but 
the best authority asserts that the chief 
deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the god- 
dess of Mount Fuji. The people of the 
neighbouring country-side often call the 
mountain by the name of Sekison-san. 
Yet another name is Afuri-yama. 

Koyasu {Inn, Kami-ya) is a long 
street of steps, which at its upper 
end changes its name to Oyama 
(Inns, Koma-ya, Izu-ya). Such of 
the inhabitants as do not keep 
houses of entertainment for the 
pilgrims, busy themselves with the 
manufacture of rosaries, toys, and 
domestic utensils. Festivals are 
held on April 21-30, July 28, Aug. 
17, and Sept. 8-10. 

The ascent and descent of the 
mountain take from 4 J to 5 hrs., 
but are more fatiguing than 
most climbs of the same length, 
owing to the multitude of steps. 
A little way beyond the inns, a 
stream gushes out of the mouth of 
a bronze dragon placed in a rocky 
wall some 20 ft. high, and falls 
into a pool, in which it is con- 
sidered highly meritorious to bathe. 
Ten chb further up, the entrance 
to the sacred domain is indicated 
by a torii perched on the top of a 
flight of steps. Here the traveller 
has to choose between the Otoko- 
zaka (man's ascent), and Onna- 
zaka (woman's ascent), — the former 
a continuous series of steep nights 
of high steps, the latter longer but 
less arduous. Both paths unite 
higher up. Numbers of small 
shrines, sacred stones, rest-houses, 
etc., are passed, and views are 
obtained from time to time of the 
plains of Sagami and Musashi, with 
the river Banyu, capes Misaki and 
Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo 



Route 3. — Yokohama to Tokyo by rait. 



109 



Bay, the sea, and the mountains of 
Kazusa. The main temple stands 
28 cho below the summit, where 
there is another shrine, which so 
covers all of the small available 
standing room that only on one 
side can any view be obtained. It 
includes Fuji, the wooded top of 
Tanzawa, the mountains of Nikko, 
Enoshima, etc. 

(Tanzawa is_a small range situ- 
ated close to Oyama on the west. 
It includes Sobutsu-yama, Tanzawa 
proper, and Bodai-yama, but offers 
little interest.) 

8.— Takao-zax. 

A description of this noted place 
will be found on p. 141. Travellers 
from Yokohama take the Higashi 
Kanagawa-Hachioji-Kofu line to 
Asakaica, a run of about 2 hrs. 



8J 

c a 2 


Names 

of 

Stations 


Remarks 


3 

71 

14 

171 

21 

22 j- 

26^ 

30j 


YOKOHAMA 
Higashi Kana- 
gawa Jet. 
Kozukue ...... 

Nakayama 

Haramachida . . 

Fuchinobe 

Hashinioto 

Aihara 

HACHIOJT Jet. 
Asakawa 


( For Hachioji 
1 and the Cen- 
1 tral Ely. 

For Kawawa. 

( Change for 
) Kofu. 



9. — Rapids of the Sagami-gawa. 

A pleasant trip, combining varied 
and picturesque scenery with a dash 
of excitement, may be made by 
descending the Sagami-gawa (called 
Katsura-gawa higher up, and Ban- 
yu-gawa lower down) from Yose on 
the Central Kail way (see Bte. 30) to 
Atsugi, near Hiratsuka on the T6- 
kaido Railway. The journey can 
be done in one day by leaving 
Higashi - Kanagawa station (see 
schedule above) at 8 a.m. and get- 



ting to Yose at 11 a.m. From Yose 
(poor inn) to the river i3 15 min. 
walk. The boat takes about 5 hrs. 
for the descent to Atsugi, whence 
basha to Hiratsuka station in a little 
over 1 hr. 

The boats hold from 8 to 10 
persons and cost (in 1912) 13 yen. 
The first portion of the journey is 
very pretty, the river running be- 
tween precipitous rocky bluffs 
covered with a variety of trees. 
The azalea is conspicuous in spring 
and the maple in autumn. Some 
distance down, the pumping station 
of the works which supply Yoko- 
hama witK water is passed on the 1. 
bank. The best part ends near the 
hamlet of Oi, 2J hrs. from Yose, 
before the river emerges into the 
plain. 



KOUTE 3. 

Yokohama to Tokyo by Bail. 



8 J 


Names 




s £ * 






$ o-S 


of 


Remarks 


ft c 


Stations 






YOKOHAMA . . . 




l|m. 


Kanagawa 




3m. 


Higashi Kana- 


Jet. for Hachi- 




gawa 


oji and Kofu. 


5! 


Tsurumi 




8 


Kawasaki 




H 


Kamata 




12 


Omori 


/Change for 


141 


Shinagawa 


J Suburban and 
(Northern 


18 


TOKYO (Shirn- 
b:ishi) . . . 


I Railways. 



This railway, built by 1 British 
engineers and finished in the 
autumn of 1872, was the first line 
opened to traffic in Japan. The 
journey from Yokohama to Tokyo 
occupies 50 min., by express 27 



110 



Route 3. — Yokohama to Tokyo by rati. 



min. The electrification of this line 
and changes in the situation of the 
termini are under construction. The 
railway skirts the shores of Tokyo 
Bay, with the old Tokaido highway 
recognisable at intervals on the r. by 
its avenue of pines. Glimpses are 
caught of the hills of Kazusa 
beyond the bay. 

[An Electric Tram, running 
parallel to the railway from 
Yokohama to Tokyo, affords a 
cheaper alternative means of 
reaching the capital, but is apt 
to be overcrowded.] 

• 
Soon after leaving Yokohama, the 
Tokaido Railway branches off 1. 
Kanagawa, once a noted post- 
town on the Tokaido, and intimate- 
ly connected with the early settle- 
ment of foreigners in this part of 
Japan (see p. 100). 

On the Tokaido highway near Nama- 
mugi, between this station and the next, 
occurred the murder of Mr Richardson, 
who, with two other Englishmen and a 
lady, got entangled in the armed pro- 
cession of Shimazu Saburo, prince of 
Satsuma, on the 14th September, 1862, 
— an outrage which ultimately led to 
the bombardment of Kagoshima. The 
whole story will be found in Black's 
Young Japan, Chap. XIII. 

Just above Tstirumi station, in 
spacious grounds, stands the temple 
of Sojiji. 

This temple, the head-quarters of the 
Sodo sect, formerly stood in the remote 
province of Noto on the west coast where 
it was founded early in the fourteenth 
century. Having been burnt down in 1898, 
it was decided to rebuild the temple in 
this more central locality. The H6ko-do, 
or Treasure Hall, was completed in 1911, 
when the chief images were transported 
thither with great ceremony. 

Kawasaki is noted for a temple 
situated If m. from the station, 
dedicated to Kobo Daishi, and com- 
monly known as Daishi Sama. An 
electric tramway, running through 
an avenue of cherry trees, connects 
the two places. 



Local legend attributes the sanctity of 
the spot to an image of K6bo Daishi 
carved by that saint himself while in 
China, and consigned by him to the 
waves. It floated to this coast, where it 
was caught in a fisherman's net, and 
being conveyed ashore, performed numer- 
ous miracles. The trees in the temple- 
grounds, trained in the shape of junks 
under sail, attest the devotion paid to 
this holy image by sea-faring folk. — 
The chief festival takes place on the 21st 
March. 

Crowds visit this temple on festi- 
val days,— the 21st of each month. It 
possesses some excellent carvings 
and a handsome gateway erected in 
1897. The grounds are laid out 
with flowering trees, monuments, a 
pond with live storks, etc., in the 
style of the great temple of Asakusa 
at Tokyd. Cheap stalls and itiner- 
ant shows make the place lively on 
festival days. A Plum Garden 
(Bai-en), with tea-houses attached, 
adjoins the grounds. 

The river crossed just beyond 
Kawasaki is the Tamagawa or 
Rokugo, the upper course of which 
is romantically beautiful, and is 
described in Ete. 30, Sect. 3. Ex- 
tensive pear orchards stretch on 
either side of the line. To the 1. rises 
the wooded bluff on which stands 
the noted temple of Ikegami (see 
Kte. 5. Sect. 2). Near Kamata 
there are lovely plum and iris 
gardens. Between Kamata and O- 
mori, the cone of Fuji, the whole 
Hakone range, Buko-zan, and the 
other mountains of Chichibu come 
in view to the 1. 

Immediately above Omori (Hotel 
and Restt. Villa Belvedere) lie the 
grounds of a tea-house surrounded 
by plum-trees, and the range of the 
Imperial Japanese Bine Club. 
Approaching 

Shinaguwa, we see the forts 
built in Tokyo Bay during the latter 
days of the Shogunate, to impede 
hostile access to the great city, but 
now dismantled because useless in 
modern warfare. Owing to the 
rapid silting up of the bay and of 
the mouth of the river Sumida, only 
vessels of light burthen can proceed 



Boute 4. — Tokyo. 



Ill 



beyond this point. Extensive re- 
clamations of land from the sea 
have been made here of late years. 

The numerous factory chimneys 
seen on nearing T6ky5 are an 
innovation of the last fifteen years. 
Many, it will be noticed, are of thin 
iron tubing instead of the usual 
brick. This plan is adopted as 
a safeguard against earthquakes, 
which natural visitation affects the 
Tokyo- Yokohama district with 
special frequency, owing to the fact 
that (as demonstrated by Prof. John 
Milne) two lines of seismic activity 
here intersect. 

Just beyond some gas-works, the 
line skirts r.*the prettily laid out 
garden of the Shiba Rikyu, one of 
the |j minor Imperial palaces. A 
little further on, the noble trees in 
the grounds of the summer palace 
called Kama Rikyu are seen also 
to the r. ; and soon after, the train 
enters the Shimbasni terminus, 
and the traveller is in Tokyo. 

A new Central Station situated 
near the Palace grounds at Maru-no- 
uchi is under construction. 



EOUTE 4 



Tokyo. 

Tokyo, formerly Yedo. 

Hotels. — Imperial ( Teikoku) Hotel, 
centrally situated; Tokyo Hotel, 
on Atago-yama; Seiyoken Hotel; 
Central Hotel, at Tsukiji. 

Japanese Inns. — Taizan-kwan and 
Tori-kwan, near the Imperial Hotel. 

Restaurants. — ( Eur op. food) 
Shimbashi Terminus (upstairs); Sei- 
yo-ken, in Ueno Park; Restaurant 
Francais near Shimbashi, and many 
others, especially in and near Ginza. 
— (Japanese food) Yaozen, at San-ya, 
Asakusa ; Tokiwa-ya, in Hama-cho. 



Tea-houses (for entertainments 
in Japanese style). — Koyo-kwan 
(Maple Club), in Shiba Park (visitors 
are shown over for a trifling fee); 
Nakamura-ro, at Ryogoku; Ume- 
gawa-ro, in Ueno Park. 

Club.— The Tokyo Club, at Tora- 
no-mon; with mixed foreign and 
Japanese membership. 

Welcome Society. — Headquarters 
in the Tokyo Chamber of Commerce 
Building, K6jimachi-ku, Yaesu-cho. 
It obtains introductions, permits, 
and other facilities for travellers. 

Foreign Embassies.— Great Britain, 
1, Koji-machi Go-bancho; United 
States, 1, Akasaka Enoki-zaka ; 
France, 1, Iida-machi Itchome ; 
Germany, 14, Nagata-cho ; Russia, 
1, Ura-Kasumi-ga-sekL 

General Post Office & Central Tele- 
graph Office. — At Y T edo-bashi. Sub- 
offices in various districts of the 
city. 

Parks- -Shiba, Ueno, Asakusa, 
Hibiya. 

Museums. — The Hakubutsu-kwan, 
in Ueno Park ; Commercial Museum 
and Mineral Museum [Sho-hin 
Chinretsu-kwan), near Shimbashi 
terminus ; Museum of Arms (Yiishu- 
kican), in the grounds of the Shdkon- 
sha temple at Kudan. Mr. Okura's 
private collection, 3, Akasaka, Aoi- 
cho, is open to visitors on Mondays 
and Thursdays. 

Public Libraries. — The Tosho- 
kwan, in Ueno Park; the Hibiya 
Tosho-kwan, in Hibiya Park.J 

Churches.— Church of England, 
in Shiba, Sakae-ch5; American 
Episcopal, Union Church (Pro- 
testant), Roman Catholic, — all in 
Tsukiji; German Evangelical, 28, 
Kojimachi, Naka-roku-bancho. 

Theatres. — Teikoku-za, (modern 
style) at Maru-no-uchi ; Yuraku-za, 
near Imperial Hotel ; Kabulri-za, in 
Kobiki-cho ; Meiji-za, in Hama-cho. 

Wrestling. — At Eko-in in Honjo, 
twice yearly for ten days in winter 
and spring. Also at other times 
and places not fixed. 

Baiaars. — Bazaars (Kwankoba) at 
Shimbashi bridge, in Shiba Park, 



112 



Boute &.— Tokyo. 



and in different parts of the city. 
Fixed prices. Nowhere can one 
more easily pick up the thousand 
and one little articles that are in 
daily use among the people. 

A City and Suburban Railway 
runs from Gofuku-bashi (Central 
Station) via Shinagawa, and skirts 
the W. and N. suburbs to Ueno, with 
a branch from Ikebukuro to Aka- 
bane on the Northern Eailway (see 
Eoute 69). Travellers from Yoko- 
hama for Nikko etc. can connect by 
changing at Shinagawa and Aka- 
bane. 



2 

ft <g 


Names 

of 

Stations 


Remarks 


fm. 

H 

2 
3 
A* 

6 
6f 

Tf 

9f 

11 

■12* 

13 

14 

15 
15f 

m 

m 

18 

19-i; 


GOFUKU-BASHI 
Yuraku-cho . . . 

Karasumori 

Hamamatsu-cho 

Tamachi 

Shinagawa Jet.. 


( Change for 
| Yokohama, 
(etc. 

See Eoute 5. 

i Change for 
< Hachioji and 
(Kofu. 

j Change for 
1 Akabane. 

( Change for 
\ Northern Ry. 
i Change for 
( East Coast Ry. 


G-otanda 

Meguro 

Ebisu 


Shibuya . . - 

Harajuku 

Yoyogi 

Shinjiku Jet.. .. 
Takadano-baba 

Mejiro 

Ikebukuro Jet. . 

Otsuka 

Sugamo . .. 

Komagome .... 
Tabata 

Nippori 

UENO 





Another Suburban Eailway runs 
partly through the old castle moat, 
with chief stations at Mansei-bashi, 
Iida-machi, Ushigome, Yotsuya, 
Shinano-machi, Shinjiku, andNaka- 
no. 

Conveyances. — Jinrikishas are in 
universal use. Electric trams run 
along the principal thoroughfares 
and to the suburbs. Carriages can 
be hired at Shimbashi Station and 



through the hotels ; also taxi-cabs at 
Shimbashi and Ueno. 

Small Steamers run to various 
points on Tokyo Bay and up the big 
rivers. 

The following are some of the 
chief shops at which articles likely 
to interest the tourist are sold : — 

Porcelain. — Mikawa-ya, at Owari- 
chd, Itchome ; Daizen, at Nihom- 
bashi, Kakuya-cho, No. 5; Sangin, 
near Shimbashi Bridge. 

Lacquer. - Hayashi Kuhei, at Ni- 
hom-bashi, Muromachi; Kuroe-ya, 
at Tori Itchdme ; Daizen, at Nihom- 
bashi, Kakuya-cho; Daishd, at 
Nihom-bashi, Aomono-cho ; Naka- 
mura, at Owari-cho, Mchome. 

Bronze. — C. Suzuki, in Tsukiji ; 
Maruki, at Nihom-bashi, Sukiya-cho ; 
Miyao, at Nihom-bashi ; Kaga-ya, 
at Asakusa, Kuramae-dori. 

Swords and Armour, — Iida, at 
Kanda, Hatago-cho, Itchome ; Naka- 
mura at Owari-cho, Nichome. 

Silver Ware.— Miyamoto Sho, at 
Kyobashi, Yazaemon-cho ; Ueda, at 
Yuraku-ch5; Seishu-kwan, at Kyo- 
bashi, Ginza, Sanchome. 

Cloisonne'. — Namikawa, at Nihom- 
bashi, Shin-emon-cho ; Ando, at 
Kyobashi, Moto-Sukiya-cho. 

Ivory. — Toyama, at Ginza, Ni- 
chome ; Murata, Kato Toyoshichi, 
both at Nihom-bashi; Maruki, at 
Nihom-bashi, Hirnono-cho. 

Old Silks and Embroideries. — Hat- 
tori, in Naka-dori ; Nishimura, near 
Imperial Hotel ; Shimizu, at Kyo- 
bashi, Inaba-cho, No. 1 ; Iwamoto, 
Domei, both in Naka-dori ; Morita, 
at Nihom-bashi, Sanai-cho. 

Silk Mercers. — Mitsukoshi, in 
Suruga-cho; Daimaru, at Hatago- 
cho ; Shiroki-ya, at Tori, Itchome ; 
Mizushima (chiefly modern em- 
broideries in European style), at 
Hon-cho, Itchome,— all in the Ni- 
hom-bashi district; Takashima-ya, 
at Nishi Konya-cho. 

Culture Pearls. — Mikimoto, at 
Ginza, Shi-chome. 

Coloured Prints. — Kobayashi, at 
Asakusa, Komakata; Hattori, in 
Naka-dori; Suwa, at Kyobashi, 



Shops. Festivals. 



113 



Tatami-ch5; Murata Kimbei, in 
Naka-dori ; Shimbi-Shd-in (for art 
albums), at Kyobashi, Shin-sakana- 
machi, No. 13. 

Paper and Fans. — Haibara, . at 
Nihom-bashi, T5ri, Itchome. 

Photographs. — Ogawa, at Kyd- 
bashi, Hiyoshi-ch5 ; MaruM, at 
Shiba, Shin-sakurada-cho, No. 18 
(for portraits) ; Okamoto, at Ginza, 
San-ch5me (for views). 

Booksellers. — Maruzen, at Nihom- 



bashi, Tori, San-chome; Methodist 
Publishing House, in Ginza. 

Curios in General. — Nakamura, at 
Owari-cho, Ni-chome ; Daizen, in 
Naka-dori ; Joko, at Sanjikken-bori, 
Ni-ch5me; Tamon-ten, Shin-emon- 
cho, Naka-dori, No. 15 ; Y. Ito, Kyo- 
bashi-ku, Izumo-cho, No. 9. Also 
many other shops in Naka-dori. 

Newspapers (English). — " Japan 
Advertiser "; " Japan Times," daily, 
the latter edited by Japanese ; " The 
Far East," weekly. 



Chief Populae Festivals. 



NAME OF FESTIVAL. 



WHEP.E HELD. 



Monthly, 5th Suitengu Kakigara-ch5. 

Monthly, 10th (October, 

special) Kompira Tora-no-mon. 

Monthly, 17-18th Kwunnon Asakusa. 

Monthly, 21st (March, 

special) Daishi Kawasaki. 

Monthly, 24th (September, 

special) Atago Jlnja' Atago-shita. 

First Day of the Hare 

(Hatsu-u) Mybkendo Yariagi-shima. 

April 17th Tbshogu , Shiba and Ueno Parks. 

April 18th Sanja Matsuri Asakusa. 

M!ay and November 6-8th. Shokonsha Kudan. 

June 3rd Kumano Jlnja Iigura and Aoyama. 

June 3-14th Tenno Matsuri Shinagawa, Yotsuya, 

Asakusa, Senju. 

Mid- July * Kawa-biraki ("Opening 

of the Eiver ") Eyogoku. 

July 7-14th Tenno Matsuri Nakabashi. 

July9-10th Shi-man ' Boku-sen 

Nichi Asakusa Kwannon. 

July 15th Sanno Nagata-ch5. 

July 15th Hikawa Jinja Akasaka. 

September ll-20th Shimmei Matsuri Shiba. 

September 15th Kanda Mybjin Kanda. 

October 12-13th Eshiki (Anniversary Ikegami and Hori-no- 

of Nichiren's death). uchi. 

November 22-28th Ko Mairi MonzekL temple at 

Asakusa. 
November (on Days of the 

Cock, Tori no hi) Tori no Machi Asakusa. 

Temples having monthly festivals are most crowded in January, May, 
and September. Further, the 1st, 15th, and 28th of each month are more 
or less specially observed. 



* Sometimes delayed by rainy weather to early August. 



114 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



Akin to the popular festivals (matsuri or ennichi) are the following 
fairs (ichi) held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable 
purchases : — 



NAME OF FAIK. 



WHEKE HELD. 



December 13th Tenno Sama Shinagawa. 

December 15th Hachiman ... Fukagawa. 

December 17-18th Kwannon Asakusa. 

December 20-2 1st Kanda Myojin Kanda. 

December 22-2 3rd Shimmei Shiba. 

December 23-24th Atago Atago-shita. 

December 25th Tenjin Hirakawa. 

December 27th-28th Fudo Yagen-bori. 

Jujutsu practice is to be seen at the Kodo-kwan, Koishikawa, Shimo- 
Tomizaka-cho, No. 18. 

The rite of Walking over Fire (Hi-watari) may be witnessed at the 
temple of Ontake at Kudan, Imagawa-kqji, on the 9th April and 17th 
September. The less interesting Ordeal by Boiling Water {Kuga-dachi) 
take place on the previous day. (Details in Things Japanese, article 
Fire-walking). 



Flo wees. 

Plum-blossoms ( Ume). — Kamata, 
a station on the railway to Yoko- 
hama; Kameido Ume-yashiki ; Ki- 
ll egawa Ume-yashiki, close to 
Mukojima, January to beginning of 
March. 

Cherry-blossoms (Sakura). — Ueno, 
Mukojima, and Shiba, early in 
April ; Koganei, middle of April. 
For the double cherry-blossoms 
(yae-zakura) Kokoku-mura, on the 
banks of the Arakawa beyond Muko- 
jima i steam launch to Senju or rail 
from Ueno to Nishi-arai), last week ' 
of April. 

Peonies (Botan). — Florists' gar- 
dens at Somei, end of April ; Sen- 
kwa-en and Shokwa-en in Azabu ; 
Kamata, near station of same name, 
beginning of May, Yotsume (in 
Honjo), middle of May. 

Wistarias ( Fuji ) . - Kameido and 
Kasukabe, first week in May. 

Azaleas (Tsutsuji).— Florists' gar- 
dens at Okubo-mura, early in May. 

Irises (Hana-shobu). — Horikiri ; 
the extensive gardens near Kamata 
station ; Ybshino-en, at Yotsuki in 
Hon jo, first half of June. 

Convolvuli (Asagao). — Florists' 



gardens at Iriya in Shitaya ; end of 
July and beginning of August. 

Lotus-flowers {Hasu). — Lake Shi- 
nobazu at Ueno, and the Palace 
moats, beginning of August. These 
flowers can only be seen to perfec- 
tion during the morning hours. 

Chrysanthemums (Kiku). — Dango- 
zaka and Asakusa, beginning of 
November. 

Maples {Mbmiji). — Kai-anji at 
Shinagawa, beginning of November ; 
Oji, middle of November. 

Principal Places to visit. — Shiba 
and Ueno Parks (tombs of the 
Tokugawa Shoguns in both, the 
former more easily accessible). 
Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa 
and neighbouring Park, Hakubutsu- 
kwan Museum at Ueno, Atago 
Tower for view of the city. Drive 
along the Ginza and round the inner 
moat (Naka-bori). 

Time to Chief Points by jinrikisha 
with two coolies : 

From Shimbashi terminus to : — 

Imperial Hotel 5 min. 

TokyoOlub 10 „ 

British Embassy 18 „ 

American Embassy 10 „ 

Shiba Park 10 „ 

Ueno Park 35 „ 

Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 „ 



History. Shibx Temples. 



115 



History.— The city is of comparatively 
modern origin. Down to the middle ages, 
most of the ground which it covers was 
washed by the sea or occupied by lagoons. 
On the sea-shore stood, in the loth centu- 
ry, the fishing hamlet of Ye-do [•« estuary 
gate"), _near which a certain warrior, 
named Ota Dokwan, built himself a 
fortress in the year 1456. The advantages 
of the position from a military point of 
view were discerned by Hideyoshi ( who 
therefore caused his general, Iyeyasu, to 
take possession of the castle, and when 
Ieyasu himself became Shogun in 1603, 
he made Yedo his capital. From that 
time forward Japan thus practically had 
two capitals, — Kyoto in the west, where 
the Mikado dwelt in stately seclusion, 
and Yedo in the east, whence the Shogun 
held sway over the whole land. The 
latter's feudal retainers, — the Daimyos, or 
territorial nobility were obliged to reside 
in Yedo for half of each year. On the 
fall of the Shogunate in 1868, the Mikado 
came and took up his abode in Yedo, and 
soon after the name of the city was 
changed to Tokyo or Tokei, these being 
alternative methods of pronouncing the 
Chinese characters jf?"]j( with which the 
name is written. The meaning of the 
term Tokyo is " Eastern Capital." It was 
given in contradistinction to SaiJcyo, or 
" Western Capital," the name by which 
Kyoto was re-christened. The Emperor's 
palace stands in the centre of the city, 
within a double line of moats, on the site 
once occupied by_the Shogun's castle, 
and earlier still by Ota Dokwan's fortress. 
A whole network of canals, traversing 
the business quarter.of the city, connects 
these with the river Sumida. 

Tokyo has been burnt down and built 
up again many times, fires having former- 
ly been as common in this wooden city as 
at Constantinople. It has also suffered 
much from earthquakes, especially from 
what is still remembered as the great 
earthquake of 1855. Tokyo covers an 
immense area, estimated before the close 
of the last century at 100 square miles, 
and it contains to grow rapidly. But this 
is partly owing to the large number of 
gardens and to the absence of many-storied 
buildings. 

The city is divided for administrative 
purposes into fifteen districts (Ku), viz : — 
1, Koji-machi ; 2, Kanda ; 3, Nihon-bashi ; 
4, Kyobashi ; 5, Shiba ; 6, Azabu ; 7, Aka- 
saka ; 8, Yotsuya ; 9, Ushigome ; 10, Koishi- 
kawa ; 11, Hongo ; 12, Shitaya ; 13, Asa- 
kusa ; 14, Honjo ; 15, Fukagawa. The 
principal suburbs are Shinagawa S. , Xaito 
ShiDJuku W., Itabashi N. W., and Seniu 
N. E. 

Since 1869, a great change has taken 
place in the outward appearance of the 
city. The yashiki, or Daimyo's mansions, 
have been pulled down to make room for 
public buildings, better adapted to modern 



needs. Railways and electric tramways 
now occupy large sections of the outer 
moat, and everywhere overhead is a net- 
work of telegraph, telephone, and electric 
light wires. The two-sworded men have 
disappeared, the palanquin has given 
place to the jinrikisha, and foreign dress 
has been very generally adopted by the 
male population. But Tokyo is pictur- 
esque notwithstanding, and as seen from 
any height has a tranquil and semi-rural 
aspect owing to the abundance of trees 
and foliage, — an effect increased of late 
years by the planting of numerous avenues 
of cherry-trees, which, early in April, 
transform the town into a garden of 
blossom. 

A plan of city improvement has been 
adopted, in conformity with which the 
narrower streets of any district burnt 
down are widened, and better sanitary 
arrangements introduced. 

Waterworks completed in 1901, supply 
Tokyo from the river Tamagawa, 24 miles 
distant. 

Owing to the shape and the vast 
extent of the city, it is impossible 
to combine the chief sights in a 
single round. The best plan is to 
take them in groups, according to 
the direction in which they lie. 
The folkrvving description proceeds 
on this principle. 



1. — Shiba Pahk. Temples and 
Tombs or the Shoguns. Gkaves 
of the Forty-seven Ronin (Sen- 

GAEXJJl). ATAGO-YAMA. 



Shiba Park (Shiba Koenchi) formed, till 
1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist 
temple of Zojoji, the head-quarters in this 
city of the Jodo sect. The temple itself 
has been burnt down, only the large gate 
(Sammon) dating from 1623 being saved. 
Probably the temple will be rebuilt. In 
any case there remain, dotted about the 
grounds, the "Mortuary Temples [O Tama- 
ya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns, 
Ieyasu, the founder of that dynasty having 
taken Zojoji under his special protection. 

The following is a list of the Tokugawa 
Shoguns. Those whose names are marked 
with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at 
the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose 
names have a dagger prefixed lie at 
Nikko, and the others at Shiba. 



PERSONAL POSTHUMOUS DIED 

NAME. TITLE. A.D. 

1. tleyasu Toshogu 1616 

2. Hidetada Taitokn-In 1632 



116 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



3. flemitsu Taiyu-In 1651 

4- *Ietsuna Genyii-In 1680 

5. *Tsunayoshi J6ken-In 1709 

6. Ienobu Bunsho-In 1713 

7. Ietsugu Yusho-In 1716 

8. *Yoshimune Yutoku-In 1751 

9. Ieshige Junshin-In 1761 

10. *Ieharu Shimmei-In....l786 

11. *Ienari Bunkyo-In 1841 

12. Ieyoshi Shintoku-In 1853 

13. *Iesada Onkyo-In . .1858 

14. Iemochi Skotoku-In ..... 1866 

15. Yoshinobu (usually called Kei- 

ki), abdicated in 1868, and is still 
living in retirement at Tokyo. 

The Shiba Temples, which 
count among the chief marvels of 
Japanese art, should, if possible, be 
visited on the forenoon of a fine 
day. Otherwise their situation, 
and the black hoarding which has 
been put up to ward off the attacks 
of the weather, will interfere with 
the full enjoyment of their minutely 
elaborate decorations. They may 
best be taken in the following 
order : — Persons pressed for time 
might limit themselves to an 
inspection of the temple and tomb 
(Octagonal Hall) of the 2nd Shogun 
only (see p. 120). 

A small fee is charged at each of 
the Mortuary Temples for seeing 
the interior, together with the 
tombs. Boots need not be taken 
off, covers being provided for them 
by the custodians. 

The entrance to the Mortuary 
Shrines of Ietsugu and Teshige, 
the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is by a 
gate on the N. side of the enclosure, 
the main gates being permanently 
closed. 

The visitor is led round to the 
porch of the temple, where, among 
other triumphs of carving, are two 
dragons, called " the Ascending and 
Descending Dragons " ( Nobori-ryu 
and Kudari-ryii), which serve as 
beams to connect the temple with 
two pillars outside. And, here be 
it noticed, each of these Mortuary 
Temples consists of three parts, — 
an outer oratory [haideri, a connect- 
ing gallery or corridor (ai-no-ma), 
and an inner sanctum {honden). In 
each of these one finds oneself in a 



blaze of gold, colours, and elaborate 
arabesques, which, especially if the 
day be fine, dazzle the eye by 
their brilliancy. In feudal times, 
when the Shogun came to worship 
the spirits of his ancestors, he 
alone ascended to the sanctum, 
the greater Daimyos ranged them- 
selves next to him in the corridor 
below, and the lesser nobility oc- 
cupied the oratory. 

On entering the oratory, observe 
the conventional paintings of lions 
on the wall. These are the work 
of Kano Chikanobu. Under the 
baldachin sits, on festival days (12th 
and 13th of each month, when visi- 
tors are not admitted), the abbot of 
Zojoji, while the priests are ranged 
around at small lacquer tables. 
The lacquer boxes on these tables 
contain scrolls of the Buddhist 
sutras. As we pass through the 
corridor, the side panels of painted 
flowers by the artist just mentioned, 
and the gorgeous panelling of the 
ceiling will arrest attention. 

The altar of this temple is sepa- 
rated from the corridor by one of 
those bamboo blinds bound with 
silk, which, together with a peculiar 
kind of banner, temper the brillian- 
cy of the other decorations. The 
sanctum contains three double- 
roofed shrines of gorgeous gold 
lacquer, picked out with body- 
colour below the eaves, and held 
together by costly and elabo- 
rate metal-work. That to the r. 
contains a wooden image of the 
father of the 6th Shogun, that in 
the middle an image of the 7th 
Shogun, and that to the 1. one of 
the 9th Shogun, together with the 
funeral tablets of each. The 
images, which are considered sacred 
because presented by Mikados, are 
never shown. On either side of 
each shrine stand wooden statu- 
ettes of the Shi-Tenno, who guard 
the world against the attacks of 
demons. In front are Kwannon 
and Benten. The wall at the back 
is gilt, while the altar and two 
tables in front are of splendid red 



Shiba Temples. 



117 



lacquer. In innumerable places 
may be seen the mitsu-aoi or 
three-leaved asarum, which is the 
crest of the Tokugawa family, and 
the lotus, the Buddhist emblem of 
purity. The altar is protected at 
night by massive gilt gates, orna- 
mented with the family crest and 
conventional flowers. Beturning 
to the porch, on the way from the 
temple to the tombs, we come to 
the Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, 
on either side of which extends a 
gallery with painted carvings of 
flowers and birds in the panels. 
Observe the angel on the ceiling, 
the work of Kano Chikanobu. 

[This gate is kept closed, prevent- 
ing access to the court beyond, 
which is remarkable for a high- 
ly ornamented gate called the 
Choku-gaku Mon, or Gate of the 
Imperial Tablet ; also for being 
lined with bronze lanterns, 
two hundred and twelve in 
all, dating, some from A J). 
1716, some from 1761, the gift 
of Daimyos as a mark of respect 
to the memory of their deceased 
lord and master, the Shogun. 
Beyond it is another court con- 
taining numerous stone lan- 
terns, and the outer gate called 
Ni-Ten Mon, or Gate of the 
Two Deva Kings.] 

As the guide leads the way to the 
tombs, observe on the eaves the 
carvings of musical instruments, 
lions, dragons, etc. Observe, too, 
the carvings of unicorns {klrin) on 
the Oshi-kiri Mon, or Dividing Gate, 
which is now passed through. 
Although the carving is open- 
work, the animals appear different 
according to the side from which 
they are viewed. Thence, through 
a noble court with more bronze 
lanterns, to a stone staircase which 
leads up to the site of the Tombs, — 
that of the 7th Shogun to the 1., 
that of the 9th Shogun to the r. 
Below each tomb is a highly 
decorated oratory. The tombs are 



of stone, in the shape called hoto 
(treasure shrine), which somewhat 
resembles a pagoda. They stand 
on an octagonal granite base, with 
stone balustrade. Their simplicity 
contrasts strongly with the lavish 
magnificence of all that goes before. 
As Mitford says in his Tales of Old 
Japan, " The sermon may have been 
preached by design, or it may have 
been by accident, but the lesson is 
there." 

The pattern on the black copper 
sheeting round the wall enclosing 
the tomb, is intended to represent 
the waves of the sea. The body is 
said to be buried at a depth of 20 
ft., and to have been coated with 
vermilion and charcoal powder to 
prevent decay. The tomb of the 
9th Shogun is a replica of that of 
the 7th. On passing the oratory of 
the 9th Shogun, notice the exquisite 
carvings in high relief of peacocks 
on the panels of the gate. 

Leaving this temple, we regain 
the main or tramway road through 
the park. The front gates of the 
mausolea are on the r., two of which 
are passed before coming to a huge 
bronze statue of Goto Shojiro, one 
of the leaders of the Bestoration of 
1868. Here turning up the wide 
road r. a small side door r., gives 
access to the temple and tombs of 
the 6th, 12th, and 14th Shoguns. 
In arrangement, this temple closely 
resembles the one we have just 
left; but the gilt is fresher, the 
carvings are closer to nature, and 
the general impression more 
magnificent, a result perhaps 
of the interest taken by the 6th 
Shogun in the preparation of his 
own last resting-place. The flowers 
and birds in the spaces between 
the cornice and the lintel of the 
oratory are perfect, both in chisel- 
ling and in delicacy of colour. 
The coifered ceiling is a master- 
piece; and the vista of the altar, 
as one stands under the baldachin, 
reveals an indescribable glory of 
blended gold and colours. The 
panels are by Kano Yasunobu. 



Shiba Temples. 



119 



The order of the shrines on the 
altar is, from r. to 1., that of the 12th, 
6th, and 14th Shoguns, the shrine 
of the last containing also the 
funeral tablet of his consort, 

From the Mortuary Temple, a 
flight of steps at the back leads up 
to the tombs of these three Shoguns 
and of the consort of the 14th, who 
was aunt to the present Emperor. 
Her obsequies, in 1877, were 
the last performed within these 
precincts. Each tomb has a 
small oratory attached. The fine 
bronze gate of the enclosure of No. 
6, which is the first tomb reached, 
is said to be the work of Korean 
artificers; but the design was 
probably furnished by a Japanese 
draughtsman. The dragons in low 
relief on the r. and 1., both inside 
and out, deserve special attention. 
Next to it is the tomb of the 12th 
Shogun, and beyond it again those 
of the 14th and his consort. The 
tomb of this princess is of bronze 
and marked with the Imperial 
crest, the sixteen-petalled chrysan- 
themum. 

Quitting the grounds of this 
Mortuary Temple we turn down 1. 
to the main road, and enter the 
grounds of the Temple of Zojoji by 
the Great Gate (Sammon). Notice 
that it is lacquered red, not simply 
painted. The upper storey, which 
is reached by a steep staircase, 
contains gilt images of Shaka with 
Fugen and Monju, flanked by large 
coloured statues of the Sixteen 
Eakan. The grand bell, on the r., 
was saved from the fire of 1874. On 



the 1. are the priests' appartments 
(Hojo) and temple offices {Jimusho). 
The main temple of Zojoji stood in 
front. 

Leaving the Zdjoji enclosure by 
an opening to the r., we next reach 
the Mortuary Temple ( Ten-ei-in) at- 
tached to the tombs of the consorts 
of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th 
Shoguns. Admittance is by the 
priests' house to the 1. Though 
the oratory is plainer than those 
already described, the altar is by 
no means less splendid. Gilded 
gates, gilded panelling, huge 
gilded pillars, — everything sparkles 
with gold, while the shrines on the 
altar are the finest specimens ex- 
tant of a peculiar kind of lacquer 
adorned with metal work. Their 
order is, from r. to 1., the consorts 
of the 12th, 6th, 2nd, and 11th 
Shoguns, while in the extreme 1. 
corner is that of the concubine of 
the 5th. The coffered ceiling, deco- 
rated with the phoenix in various 
colours, is especially admired. 

From this temple, we pass into 
the court of that attached to the 
tomb of the 2nd Shogun, — entrance 
through the priests' house to the 
r. The sanctum is a grand ex- 
ample of Japanese religious ar- 
chitecture. Two huge gilded pillars 
called daijin-bashira, r. and 1. of 
the altar, support the lofty vaulted 
roof, curiously constructed of a net- 
work of beams. The upper part of 
the walls is decorated with large 
carved medallions of birds in high 
relief, richly painted and gilt. The 
shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over 



Index to Plan op 

1. Ni-ten Mon (Gate). 

2. Temple of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 

3. Tombs of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 

4. Temple of 6th, 12th, and 14th 

Shoguns. 

5. Tombs of 6th, 12th, and 14th 

Shoguns. 

6. Great Gate (Sammon). 

7. Shrine of Five Hundred Eakan. 

8. Priests' Apartments. 



Shiba Temples. 

9. Zojoji. 

10. Gokoku-den. 

11. Ten-ei-in. 

12. Temple of 2nd Shogun. 

13. Octagonal Hall (Hakkaku-do). 

14. Ankoku-den (Toshogii). 

15. Maruyama. 

16. Pagoda. 

17. Shrine of Benten. 

18. Maple Club [Koyo-kican). 



120 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



two and a half centuries old, and 
the tables in front also deserve 
inspection. The bronze incense- 
burner in the form of a lion dates 
from 1635. Ieyasu's war-drum rests 
on a large ornamental stand. The 
coffers in the ceilings are filled with 
fretwork oyer lacquer. 

A short walk among the lofty- 
trees behind to the 1. leads up to 
the Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall, 
containing the tomb of the 2nd 
Shogun, which is the largest speci- 
men of gold lacquer in the world 
and one of the most magnificent. 
Parts of it are inlaid with enamel 
and crystals. The scenes on the 
upper half represent the "Eight 
\iews " of Siao-Siang in China and 
of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the 
lower half is adorned with the lion 
and peony,— the king of beasts and 
the king of flowers. The base is of 
stone shaped like a lotus-flower. 
The shrine contains only an effigy 
of the Shogun and his funeral 
tablet, the body being beneath the 
pavement. The interior walls of 
the hall are of lacquer gilded over. 
Eight pillars covered with gilt cop- 
per plates support the roof. 

Outside this building are two 
curiously carved stones, dating 
from 1644. The subject of one is 
" Shaka's Entry into Nirvana," and 
of the other the " Five-and-Twenty 
Bosatsu" coming with Amida to 
welcome the departed soul. The 
oratory in front of the Octagonal 
Hall contains nothing worthy of 
special notice. 

Descending again to the Mortu- 
ary Temple, and turning r., the 
visitor can either rejoin the main 
road and enter by the large gate, or 
walk direct for a hundred yards 
under the trees, to the temple of 
Ankoku-den. Here, on the 17th of 
every month, a popular festival is 
held in honour of the Shogun 
Ieyasu, who is worshipped as a 
Shinto deity under the name of 
Tbshogu. Constructed when Bud- 
dhism was dominant, this temple is 
architecturally as highly ornament- 



ed as the rest, the present su- 
premacy of the Shintd cult being 
indicated only by the paper symbols 
(gohei) in the oratory, which also 
contains a large bronze mirror and 
two gilt ama-inu. The sanctum 
(admittance through the Shamusho, 
or temple office, to the r.) stands 
behind, in a separate enclosure. 
The coffered ceiling is very fine, as 
are the hawks and birds of paradise 
on a gold ground in the panels 
round the interior. Particularly ex- 
cellent is a painting by Kand Hogen 
at the back of the altar, represent- 
ing Shaka attended by Monju and 
Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft. 
high, with an elaborate cornice of 
three rows of brackets; and its 
walls are of splendid gold lacquer 
with raised designs. In front, on 
the door-panels, are eight small 
landscapes, with dragons descend- 
ing through the clouds on either 
hand, At the sides are boldly 
designed groups of the pine and 
bamboo. Inside is a life-like wooden 
effigy of Ieyasu, which can be seen 
only on the 17th day of the month. 
A visit to Shiba may be termi- 
nated by walking up Maruyama, 
the little hill at the back, which 
commands a view of the bay. Close 
to the Pagoda, which is not open 
to the public, stands a monument 
erected in 1890 to the memory of 
Ino Chukei, the father of Japanese 
cartography, who flourished in the 
18th century. 

The mound on which this monument 
stands has been discovered by Prof. 
Tsuboi to be an artificial tumulus (tsuka) 
of the gourd-shape used for Imperial 
interments over a thousand years ago ; 
and there are two smaller tumuli close 
by. The larger was probably the burial- 
place of some prince, as a branch of the 
reigning family settled in Eastern Japan 
in very early times. 

Thence one descends to the little 
Temple of Benten, prettily situated 
on an islet in a pond overgrown 
with lotuses. Further back in the 
wood stands the Koyo-kwan, or 
Maple Club, where dinners and 



Forty-seven Bonins. Atago-yama. 



121 



beautiful dances in Japanese style 
are given. 

Shiba is seen to best advantage in 
early April, when the cherry-trees 
are in blossom. 

About 1 mile f com the Shiba tem- 
ples, in the direction of Shinagawa, 
stands the Buddhist temple of 
Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven 
Ronins (Shi-ju-shichi Shi) lie buri- 
ed. 

For their dramatic story, see Things 
Japanese. A more minute account is 
given in Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. 

Just within the gate is a two- 
storied building called Kanranjo, 
where swords, armour, and other 
relics of these heroes are shown 
on payment of a small fee. The 
well {Kubi-arai ido), where the 
Bonins washed the head of the 
foe on whom they had taken ven- 
geance, still exists by the side of 
the path leading to the tombs, 
which are ranged on the r. side of 
a small square court. That in the 
further corner is the grave of Oishi 
Kuranosuke, the leader of the 
faithful band ; the monument next 
to his, on the other side of the 
stone fence, marks the grave of the 
lord for whose sake he and his 
comrades sacrificed their lives. 
The popular reverence for these 
heroes is attested by the incense 
perpetually kept burning before 
Oishi' s grave, and by the visiting 
cards continually left there. Paint- 
ed statuettes of the Bonins are 
exhibited in a building below. 

On the way back, one may obtain 
a good view of the city by going 
up Atago-yama, a small hill a short 
way to the N. of Shiba Park, named 
after the higher Mount Atago at 
Kyoto. {Atago is properly the name 
of a divinity; see p. 43.) Atago- 
yama, like many other such places 
in Japan, has two flights of steps 
leading up it, one of which, called 
"the men's staircase" (otoko-zaka), 
is straight and steep, while the 
other, or "women's staircase" 



(onna-zaka), is circuitous but less 
fatiguing. A tower has been erec- 
ted on Atago-yama, which visitors 
pay a trifling fee to ascend. The 
view includes Fuji, the Hakone 
range, Oyama, Mitake, Tsukuba, 
and the provinces beyond Tokyo 
Bay with Kano-zan and Nokogiri- 
yama. 



2. — Akasaka and Azabu. 

Akasaka and Azabu are the 
highest and healthiest districts of 
Tokyo, but contain little to interest 
the tourist. In a part of Akasaka 
called Aoyama, is situated the palace 
occupied by the Crown Prince. It is 
hot open to the public; but the elite of 
Tokyd society is invited there once 
yearly to a garden party given in 
November, on the occasion of what 
is perhaps the most wonderful 
chrysanthemum show in the world. 
Closely adjoining it, is a large 
Parade Ground (Rempei-ba), where 
the annual review on the Emperor's 
birthday is held. A little further 
to the S. lies the Aoyama Cemetery, 
part of which has been reserved for 
the interment of foreigners. 

To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb 
of Shibuya, stands the Bed Cross 
Hospital (Seki-juji-sha Byoin). 



3. — Chief Buildings in Koji- 
machi. The Diet. Sanno. 
Shokonsha. 



On the S. side of Hibiya Park 
stand the wooden buildings of the 
Imperial Diet. Just beyond 
them on the r. (lining the W. side 
of the Park) are the extensive brick 
edifices belonging to the Naval 
Department, the Judicial Depart- 
ment, and the Courts of Justice. 
To the extreme 1., above an em- 
bankment, will be seen the brick 
buildings completed in 1877 for the 
the College of Engineering, the 



122 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



earliest scientific academy es- 
tablished in Japan, and presided 
over by British professors. They 
are now used as girls' schools. The 
new Tokyo Club stands in these 
grounds. 

Crossing the wide road, we pass, 
1. the Russian Embassy, r. the 
Foreign Office ( Gvcaimusho), and at 
the top of the ascent the Chinese 
Legation. Behind this, on a prettily 
wooded eminence, stands the Shinto 
Temple of Sanno, officially styled 
Hie Jinja. Dating in its present 
form from 1654, it was adopted by 
the Shoguns of the Tokugawa 
dynasty as their tutelary shrine. 
Ail the buildings, except the main 
temple, are falling into decay. 
Each of the inner compartments of 
the large gate contains a seated 
image of a monkey ornamented 
with a bib, that animal being re- 
garded as the servant of the divinity 
of Hie, for which reason monkeys 
also figure on the altar. 

This neighbourhood, of which 
the chief part is called Nagata- 
chb, is the most fashionable in 
Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of 
Princes Kita-Shirakawa and Arisu- 
gawa, and the residences of many 
high officials and foreign diplomats. 
Hence, in local parlance, it is some- 
times nicknamed Daimyo Kbji, or 
the Nobles' Quarter. Below Prince 
Kita-Shirakawa's Palace lies the 
Kioi-cho Koenchi, a garden planted 
with azaleas and containing a 
huge monolith commemorative of 
Okubo Toshimichi, one of the 
founders of the new order of things 
in Japan, who was assassinated 
near this spot in 1878. On the flat 
top of the Kudan hill, a short way 
beyond the British Embassy, stands 
the Shintd temple of Yasukuni 
Jinja, also known as Shokonsha, 
or Spirit-Invoking Shrine. 

The Honden, or Main Shrine, of this 
temple, built in accordance with the 
severest canons of pure Shinto architec- 
ture, was erected in 1869 for the worship 
of the spirits of those who had fallen 
fighting for the Mikado's cause in the 



revolutionary war of the previous year. 
The Haiden was added in 1901. Services 
are also held in honour of those who fell 
in the Saga troubles of 1873, the Satsuma 
rebellion of 1877, and subsequent foreign 
wars. 

The principal memorial services 
take place on the 6-8th May' and 
6-8th November, when wrestling 
and other popular amusements 
enliven the occasion. The enor- 
mous bronze torii was set up in 
December, 1887. 

The grounds behind the temple 
have been tastefully laid out, and 
look their best in early spring when 
the plum and cherry-trees are in 
blossom. 

The brick building to the r. of 
the temple is the Yushii-kwan, a 
Museum of Arms, which is open 
from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m. in summer, 
and from 9 to 3 in winter. It well 
deserves a visit, for the sake of 
the magnificent specimens of old 
Japanese swords and scabbards 
which it contains, as well as ar- 
mour, old Korean bronze cannon, 
trophies of the China war of 1894-5, 
the war with Kussia, (1904-5) etc. 
The 28 centimetre gun outside was 
manufactured at the Osaka arsenal, 
and used at the siege of Port 
Arthur for the destruction of the 
Russian ships; the broken 23 
centimetre gun was taken after 
the capitulation. The numerous 
portraits of modern military men 
are depressing specimens of the 
painter's handicraft; but a series 
of large coloured photographs of 
scenes in the war with Russia merit 
ail praise. 

The granite lanterns around the 
wide enclosure, outside the temple 
grounds, were presented by the 
nobility in 1878. The large bronze 
statue of Omura Hyobu Tayu, a 
distinguished patriot in the war 
that restored the Mikado to power, 
was erected in 1882, and is remark- 
able as the first Japanese example 
of this method of commemorating 
departed worth. Near by, but 
beyond this enclosure, overlooking 



Yasukuni Jvnja. Imperial Palace. 



123 



the moat, is a statue to another 
eminent soldier, of later times, 
General Kawakami. Close to it 
stands a monument in the shape of 
a bayonet, erected by the soldiers 
of the Imperial Guard, in me- 
mory of their comrades who fell 
fighting on the loyalist side in the 
Satsuma rebellion. This point 
overlooks the city in the direction 
of Ueno. The prominent edifice on 
the bluff opposite (Suruga-dai) is 
the Bussian Cathedral, consecrated 
in 1891. To the citizens of Tokyo 
it is familiarly known as Nikorai, 
from Bishop Nicolai, who built it. 
The ancient stone beacon, on the 
opposite side of the road, formerly 
lighted junks on their way up Yedo 
Bay. 

At the foot of Kudan-zaka stands 
the Temple of Ontake, where the 
curious ceremonies of "Ordeal by 
Boiling Water " and " Walking over 
Fire" are held on the 8-9th April 
and 16-l7th September. For de- 
tails, see Things Japanese, article 
Fire-walking. 



4. — Kojimachi (continued). The 
Inner Moat. The Imperial 
Palace. Insatsu Kyoku. 



Another and more direct way 
from the hotels' (and passing by the 
British Embassy), to the Shokonsha 
at Kudan, is to take the broad road 
by the Palace moat on the N. side 
of Hibiya Park. Proceeding along 
it, and passing r. the second of the 
gates (Sakurada Go Mon) leading 
to the Palace, we notice, on an 
eminence 1., the General Staff Office. 

The moat here, with its green 
banks and spreading trees, and in 
winter the numerous wild-fowl 
fluttering in the water, is one of 
the prettiest bits of T6ky5. The 
vast enclosure of the Imperial 
Palace lies beyond. 

The Imperial Palace. The 
new Palace, inhabited by the 
Emperor and Empress is not 



accessible to the public, only those 
who are honoured with an Imperial 
Audience being admitted within its 
gates. Nevertheless, the following 
description, abridged from the 
Japan Mail, may be of interest : — 
Entering through long corridors 
isolated by massive iron doors, we 
find ourselves in the smaller of two 
reception rooms, and at the com- 
mencement of what seems an 
endless vista of crystal chambers. 
This effect is due to the fact that the 
shoji, or sliding doors, are of plate- 
glass. The workmanship and de- 
coration of these chambers are truly 
exquisite. It need scarcely be said 
that the woods employed are of the 
choicest description, and that the 
carpenters and joiners have done 
their part with such skill as only 
Japanese artisans seem to possess. 
Each ceiling is a work of art, 
being divided by lacquer ribs of a 
deep brown colour into numerous 
panels, each of which contains a 
beautifully executed decorative de- 
sign, painted, embroidered, or em- 
bossed. The walls are covered in 
most cases with rich but chaste 
brocades, except in the corridors, 
where a thick, embossed paper of 
charming tint and pattern shows 
what skill has been developed in 
this class of manufacture at the 
Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid 
this luxury of well-assorted but 
warm tints, remain the massive 
square posts, — beautiful enough in 
themselves, but scarcely harmo- 
nising with their environment, and 
introducing an incongruous ele- 
ment into the building. The true 
type of what may be called Imperial 
aesthetic decoration was essentially 
marked by refined simplicity, — 
white wooden joinery, with pale 
neutral tints and mellow gilding. 
The splendour of richly painted 
ceilings, lacquered lattice- work, and 
brocaded walls was reserved for 
Buddhist temples and mausolea. 
Thus we have the Shinto, or true 
Imperial style, presenting itself in 
the severely colourless pillars, while 



124 



Route 4 — Tokyo. 



the resources of Buddhist architec- 
ture have been drawn upon for the 
rest of the decoration. In one part 
of the building the severest canons 
have been strictly followed : the six 
Imperial Studies, three below stairs 
and three above, are precisely such 
chaste and pure apartments as a 
scholar would choose for the abode 
of learning. By way of an example 
in the other direction, we may take 
the Banqueting Hall, — a room of 
magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and 
noble proportions, its immense ex- 
panse of ceiling glowing with gold 
and colours, and its broad walls 
hung with the costliest silks. The 
Throne Chamber is scarcely less 
striking, though of smaller dimen- 
sions and more subdued decoration. 
Every detail of the work shows 
infinite painstaking, and is redolent 
of artistic instinct. A magnificent 
piece of tapestry hangs in one of 
the reception rooms. It is 40 ft. 
by 13 ft., woven in one piece by 
Kawashima of Kyoto. The weaving 
is of the kind known as tsuzuri-ori, 
so called because each part of the 
design is separated from the body 
of the stuff: by a border of pin- 
points, so that the whole pattern 
seems suspended in the material. 
The subject represented is an 
Imperial procession in feudal Japan, 
and the designer has succeeded in 
grouping an immense number of 
figures with admirable taste and 
skill. The colours are rich and 
harmonious, and the whole forms 
probably one of the finest pieces of 
tapestry in existence. The furni- 
ture of the palace was imported 
from Germany. Externally the 
principal buildings are all in pure 
Japanese style. 

The unpretentious brick and 
plaster structure to be seen from 
the E. side, rising above the moat 
in the palace enclosure, contains 
the offices of the Imperial House- 
hold Department. The bronze 
equestrian statue, occupying the 
S.E. corner of the wide open space 



opposite the Niju-bashi Bridge and 
representing the loyalist warrior, 
Kusunoki Masashige (see p. 79), was 
erected in 1900.— On leaving this 
space and crossing the moat, we 
come to another wide extent of 
ground called Maru-no-uchi, for- 
merly occupied by Daimyos' 
mansions, and now gradually being 
covered with the offices of various 
public companies. 

Not far off, in an E. direction, 
is the Insatsu Kyoku, or Govern- 
ment Printing Office, a large and 
well-organized establishment, to the 
inspection of which a day may be 
profitably devoted, as its scope is 
very wide, including much besides 
mere printing. Here, among other 
things, is manufactured the paper 
currency of the country. The 
Ministries of Finance, of Education, 
and of the Interior, together with 
various other Government offices, 
are in the same neighbourhood. 

5. GlNZA. SoiTENGU. NlHOM- 

bashi. Cueio Steeet. Seid5. 

KANDA MYOJIN. iMPEEIAIi UnI- 

veesity. dango-zaea. o-gwan- 
non. Botanical Gaeden. Koi- 
shie.awa aesenal and gabden. 
Gokoe:uji. 

The most important thoroughfare 
in Tokyo, which none should fail 
to see, leads from the Shimbashi 
terminus to Mansei-bashi and Ueno. 
The portion of it lying nearest the 
station is commonly called the 
G-inza. Proceeding along it, the 
traveller crosses the Kyobashi and 
Nihom-bashi bridges, from the 
latter of which all distances in 
Eastern Japan are calculated. The 
General Post-Office stands close by. 
Parallel to the portion of the main 
thoroughfare between these bridges 
is Naka-dori, a street attractive on 
account of its second-hand curio 
shops. Mhom-bashi has also given 
its name to the surrounding large 
and busy district, which is filled 
with shops, market-places, and 



Seido. Imperial University. 



125 



godowns. The great fish-market is 
a notable sight in the early hours 
of the morning. 

Another sight (chiefly on the 5th 
day of the month, but also on the 
1st and 15th) is afforded by the 
concourse of worshippers at the 
Temple of Suitengu, in Kakigara-chd. 

Notice the brass cylinders hung to 
metal pillars in the grounds, and used by 
the inquisitive for reading their own for- 
tunes {mi Jcuji). These cylinders contain 
brass slips with such inscriptions in Chi- 
nese characters as " very lucky," " half 
lucky," "unlucky," etc.- For the deity 
here worshipped, see p. 54. 

At Mansei-hashi station is a 
bronze group of Commander Hirose, 
the first naval hero of the Russian 
war, and his trusty quarter-master 
Sugino, in the endeavour to save 
whose life he lost his own. 

Just beyond to the 1. stands 
Seido,— the "Sage's Hall," or 
Temple of Confucius, formerly a 
University of Chinese learning, now 
used as an Educational Museum. 
It is situated on rising ground in 
the midst of a grove of trees, 
among which the fragrant mokusei 
is most conspicuous. The build- 
ings, which date from 1691, are 
fine specimens of the Chinese style 
of architecture. The main hall 
facing the entrance is supported on 
black lacquered pillars, the ceiling 
also is of black lacquer, while the 
floor is of finely chiselled square 
blocks of stone. Opposite the door 
is enshrined a painted wooden 
image of Confucius, possessing 
considerable merit as a work of art. 
He is flanked by other Chinese 
sages : Ml. encius and Chwang Tzu, 
r. Ganshi and Shishi. 

Just above .in the same grounds, 
stands the Middle School' attached 
to the Higher Normal School, while 
adjoining it is the Female Higher 
Normal School. 

Behind the Seido, is the Byobu 
Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin, 
dedicated to the god Onamuji and 
to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of 
the 10th century (see p. 79). 



After the final overthrow of Masakado, 
his ghost used to haunt the neighbour- 
hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo- 
theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen- 
tury. The temple, for which a hoary 
antiquity is claimed, but which was only 
established on its present site in 1616, has 
been frequently burnt down and rebuilt 
since that time. 

The temple, originally decorated 
with paintings by artists of the 
Kano school, has now grown dingy, 
but is still popular with the multi- 
tude. The chief festival, celebrated 
on the 15th September, is well 
worth seeing. 

Entering the main street of the 
district of Kanda, one of the chief 
arteries of the northern portion of 
the metropolis, we come r. to the 
extensive buildings of the Imperial 
University (Teikoku Daigaku), 
standing in the grounds of the 
former mansion of the great Daimy5 
of Kaga. 

The germ of this institution was the 
Bansho Shirdbe-jo or " Place for the Ex- 
amination of Barbarian Writings," found- 
ed by the Tokugawa Government in 1856. 
Seven years later, this name was altered 
to that of Kaisei-jo, or " Place for Develop- 
ing and Completing," which indicated a 
change for the better in the views held 
by the Japanese as to the value of Euro- 
pean learning. Numerous other modi- 
fications have taken place both in the 
name and scope of the institution, which 
since 1881 has been placed on a thorough- 
ly modern footing, and now includes 
colleges of Law, Medicine, Engineering, 
Literature, Science, and Agriculture, 
where lectures are delivered by a large 
staff of professors of various nationalities 
and in various languages. The students 
number over 5,000. The courses that 
attract most students are those of Law, 
Medicine, and Engineering. A large 
hospital connected with the University 
stands in the same grounds. Other 
institutions under the authority of the 
President are the Botanical G-arden in 
the district of Koishikawa and the Tokyo 
Observatory at ligura. 

Further on, to the N.E. are the 
florists' gardens of Dang^o-zaka, 
whither the towns-folk resort in 
thousands to see the chrysanthemum 
shows in November. The flowers 
are trained over trellis- work to 
represent historical and mythologic- 



126 



Boute 4.— Tokyo. 



al scenes, ships, dragons, and other 
curious objects. 

The O-G-wannon, or Great Kwan- 
non, may be worth a passing visit. 
The gilt image, which is 16 ft. high, 
was an offering made in the 17th 
century by a merchant of Yedo, and 
represents the goddess bending 
slightly forward, and holding in her 
hand the lotus, the emblem of 
purity. Round the walls of the 
shrine containing the image, are 
ranged in tiers the Sen-tai Kwannon, 
or images of the Thousand Incarna- 
tions of Kwannon. 

The Koishikawa Botanical 
Garden {Shoku-butsu-en) is open to 
the public, and duplicate specimens 
of the plants may be purchased at 
the office. 

The Koishikawa Arsenal [Ho- 
hei Kosho) occupies the site of the 
former mansion of the Prince of 
Mito. An order from the military 
authorities is necessary to gain 
admittance. An order is also neces- 
sary for the Garden (Koraku-en), 
which still remains intact, and is 
the finest specimen of the Japanese 
landscape gardener's art to be seen 
in the capital. 

The object of its designer was to 
reproduce in miniature many of the 
scenes whose names are classic among 
the literati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni, 
generally known as Mito Komon, laid out 
the grounds as a place in which to enjoy 
a calm old age after a life of labour. 
If the visitor has first inspected the 
Arsenal, he will then be conducted to a 
summer-house in the garden, with an 
extensive grass-plot attached, and over- 
looking a lake copied from a noted one 
in China, called Sei-ko. A small wooded 
hill rises beyond, which we ascend, and 
on which stands a miniature replica of 
the famous temple of Kiyomizu at Kyoto, 
enriched with carvings, but worn by 
time. Descending, we are plunged for 
a minute in the depths of a wood before 
reaching an old bridge with a rivulet 
running far below. On crossing the 
bridge a zigzag path leads to the shrine 
of Haku-i and Shiku-sei, the loyal 
brothers of Chinese tradition, who, after 
the overthrow of their lord and master, 
refused to eat the grain produced under 
the conqueror's sway, and, secluding 
themselves on Mount Shuyo, lived on 



ferns till, being told that ferns grew also 
on their enemy's lands, they abstained 
even from that poor food, and so died 
of starvation. An arched stone bridge 
and another shrine, shaped octagonally 
in allusion to the Eight Diagrams of the 
Chinese system of divination, are next 
passed. From here, a tunnel-like opening 
leads through a thicket of creepers and 
other trees to a lake several acres in 
extent and full of lotuses. The water, 
which comes from the Tamagawa acque- 
duct, is made to form a pretty cascade 
before falling into the lake. .An island 
in the centre is connected with the main- 
land by a bridge. Everywhere there are 
magnificent trees, — cherry-trees for the 
spring, maples for the autumn, plum- 
trees for the winter, making a change of 
scene at each season. Near the exit is 
a hill with a path paved in such manner 
as to imitate the road over the Hakone 



On the extreme N.W. outskirts of 
the city stands the Buddhist tem- 
ple of Gokokuji, now used as the 
head-quarters of the Shingon sect, 
which has a seminary for young 
priests. With its extensive grounds, 
its silent belfry, and the perfect 
stillness of its surroundings, it 
recalls the memory of days now 
irrevocably past, when Buddhism 
was a mighty power in the land. 
The azaleas here are noted for their 
beauty. The chief treasure of the 
temple is a gigantic kakemono of 
Buddha's Entry into Niravna, by 
Kano Yasunobu, which is shown 
only during the month of April. 

Adjoining Gokokuji is the new 
Cemetery of the Imperial family, 
selected since the removal of the 
Court to Tokyo. It is not open 
to the public. 



6.— Ueno Paek, Temples, and 
Museum. Asakusa. Higashi 
Hongwanji. Temple of Kwan- 
non. MUKOJIMA. KOKOKU-MUKA. 
HORIKIBI. 

Ueno Park, famed for its 
Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns, 
is the most popular resort in the 
metropolis. Here, in April, all 
Tokyo assembles to admire the 
wonderful mass of cherry-blossom 



Ueno Park. 



127 



for which it is famous. No traveller 
should miss this opportunity of 
witnessing a scene charming alike 
for natural beauty and picturesque 
gaiety. 

The importance of Ueno, which lies 
due N. E. of the palace, had its origin in 
a wide-spread superstition, which regards 
that quarter as the most unlucky of all 
the points of the compass, and brands it 
with the name of Ki-mon, or the Demon's 
Gate. When, therefore, some progress 
had been made in the construction of 
the city of Yedo, the Shogun Iemitsu, 
in the year 1625, determined to erect 
here a set of Buddhist temples, which, 
eclipsing all others in splendour, should 
ward off the approach of evil influ- 
ences. The original main temple 
(Kwan-ei-ji) then founded occupied the 
site of the present Museum, but was 
burnt down in 18C8 on the occasion of a 
fierce battle fought between the partisans 
of the Shogunate and those of the new 
regime. In this temple always resided 
as high-priest a son of the reigning 
Mikado, retained in gilded slavery for 
political reasons, as it was convenient for 
the Shoguns to have in their power a 
prince who could at once be decorated 
with the Imperial title, should the Court 
of Kyoto at any time prove refractory. 
The last high-priest of Ueno was actually 
utilised in this manner by the Shognn's 
partisans, and carried off by them to 
Aizu in 1868, when they raised the stand- 
ard of rebellion. On the Europeanisation 
of the country he was known as Prince 
Kita-Shirakawa, and died commanding an 
army in Formosa in the year 1895. 

Leaving his jinrikisha at the 
bottom of the hill, the traveller 
ascends r. a short flight of steps, 
leading to a plateau planted with 
cherry-trees and commanding a 
good view of the city, especially 
towards Asakusa, including the 
twelve-storied tower which is seen 
rising beyond the Ueno railway 
station, and the high roof of the 
great Hongwanji temple. The 
bronze statue of Saigo Takamori 
(see p. 82) was erected in 1899. 
The stone monument close by is 
dedicated to the soldiers who fell 
fighting for the Shogun' s cause in 
the battle of Ueno. To the 1., is a 
dingy Buddhist temple sacred to 
the Thousand-handed Kwannon. 

Descending again to the main 
road, we reach the celebrated 



Avenue of cherry-trees, a uniquely 
beautiful sight during the brief 
season of blossom, when the air 
seems to be filled with pink clouds. 
To the 1. lies a shallow piece of 
water, called Shinobazu no Ike, 
celebrated for its lotus-flowers in 
August. On a little peninsula 
jutting out into the lake, is a shrine 
sacred to the goddess Benten. A 
little further up is the Seiydken 
Restaurant, which commands a good 
view. The extensive buildings of 
the Imperial University are seen in 
the distance. Close to the restaurant 
is a bronze image of Buddha, 21J ft. 
high, known as the Baibutsu. This 
inferior specimen of the bronze- 
worker's art dates from about the 
year 1660. The turning to the 1. 
of the Buddha leads to a massive 
torii. Along the avenue of stately 
cryptomerias stand an ancient 
pagoda and an elaborately decorated 
gate at the end of a long row of 
stone lanterns, presented in 1651 by 
various Daimyos as a tribute to the 
memory of the Shogun Ieyasu. To 
this Shogun, under his posthumous 
name of Toshogu or Gongen Sama, 
the shrine within is dedicated. 
The gate itself, restored in 1890, is 
already tarnished by exposure to 
the elements. Carvings of dragons 
adorn it on either side ; above are 
geometrical figures, birds, foliage, 
and everywhere the Tokugawa crest 
of three asarum leaves. The temple 
contains some fine specimens of lac- 
quer. Bound the walls hang pic- 
tures of the San-jil-rok-ka-sen (see 
p. 83), below which are screens with 
conventional lions. 

Regaining the main road, we 
come to the statue of General Prince 
Komatsu, erected in 1912 ; and 
further on, to some exhibition 
buildings. Immediately behind 
them stands the Ueno Museum 
( Ueno Hakubutsu-kwan). This in- 
stitution, which is open daily from 
8 to 5 in summer, and from 9 to 4 
in winter, with the exception of the 
ten days from the 25th December 
to the 4th January, well merits a 



128 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



visit. But no details of the ar- 
rangement of the contents can here 
be given, as, for some unexplained 
reason, it is perpetually altered. 

Notice in the Natural History 
Department the cocks from Tosa 
with tails 14£ ft. long. 

The Historical and Archaeological 
Departments offer special interest. 
Here are to be seen stone arrow- 
heads, spear-heads, and pottery of 
the prehistoric period ; proto-historic 
copper bells and mirrors, iron 
swords, armour, horse-trappings, 
shoes, and cooking utensils. Be- 
sides the above, notice also the 
pottery anciently employed for the 
presentation of offerings to the 
Shinto gods. Some pieces from 
the provinces on the N.E. shore of 
the Inland Sea are remarkably 
ornamented with human figures in 
high relief. Particularly curious 
are the earthenware images of men 
and horses used in proto-historic 
times for interment in the graves 
of illustrious personages, after the 
custom of burying their chief 
retainers alive with them had been 
discontinued, the figures of birds — 
apparently geese —which were used 
as a fence round the tumulus of 
the Emperor Ojin in the province 
of Kawachi, and fragments of 
earthenware posts put to a similar 
purpose. 

The most characteristically pre- 
historic Japanese specimens are the 
maga-tama and kuda-tama in jasper, 
agate, and other materials. 

The maga-tama, or " curved jewels," 
which somewhat resemble a tadpole in 
shape, were anciently (say, prior to the 
7th century) strung together and used as 
necklaces and ornaments for the waist 
both by men and women, as were also 
the Kuda-tama, or " tube-shaped jewels." 
Their use survived in the Luchu Islands 
till a much more recent date. 

There are also shown objects 
illustrating the manners and cus- 
toms of the Chinese, Koreans, 
Australian aborigines, natives of 
India, American Indians, and 
Siberian tribes, and others illustrat- 



ing Japan's semi-foreign dependen- 
cies, — Formosa, Yezo, and Luchu. 

Some Christian relics will special- 
ly interest the European visitor. 
They include the fumiita, or 
" trampling boards " — oblong blocks 
of metal with figures in high 
relief of Christ before Pilate, the 
Descent from the Cross, the Virgin 
and Child, etc., on which persons 
suspected of the crime of Chris- 
tianity were made to trample during 
times of persecution, in order to 
testify their abjuration of the 
"Depraved Sect," as it was called. 
One of the old kosatsu, or public 
notice boards prohibiting Christi- 
anity, is also here exhibited. 

Observe, furthermore, the Imperi- 
al state bullock cart and palanquins 
and the model of the Tenchi Maru, 
or Ship of Heaven and Earth, which 
was the state barge used by the 
Shoguns. 

The stiff flowers and geometrical 
patterns of the Imperial bullock cart ex- 
emplify a feature often noticed in early 
Japanese ornamentation, when art was 
still in Chinese leading-strings, and had 
not yet gained the freedom, together with 
the happy use of irregnlarity, character- 
istic of later days. 

Examine also the fac-similes of 
objects from the famous temple 
store-houses of Nara and Horyuji, 
over twelve hundred years old, to- 
gether with the temple furniture, 
seals, tokko, rosaries, etc., old boxes, 
images, and other objects, the most 
interesting to the antiquarian being 
the specimens of the miniature 
pagodas {Hachiman-to), of which, in 
A.D. 764, the reigning Empress 
caused a million to be made for 
distribution throughout the land. 

The Art Industry Department, 
contains lacquer, porcelain, bronze, 
etc., — a large collection of articles 
of rare beauty. 

The new building (Hyokei-kwan) 
to the 1., was erected by the Mu- 
nicipality to commemorate the wed- 
ding of the Crown Prince. It 
contains a beautiful collection of 
kakemonos and screens, besides less 



Ueno Temples. 



129 



successful pictures in European 
style; likewise a choice collection of 
lacquer bequeathed to the Japanese 
nation by Mr. Quincey A. Shaw, of 
Boston. 

On quitting the Museum, an 
avenue r. leads to a Public Library 
and Beading Room (Tosho-kwari), 
the largest in the empire, to the 1. 
of which is an Art School (Bijutsu 
Gakkb), not accessible without a 
special introduction. Close by are 
the Zoological Gardens (Dobutsu-en). 

After passing the Tosho-kwan, an 
avenue turns off r. to the 

Tombs of the Shoguns {Go 
Beiya), abutting on the second and 
finer of the two Mortuary Temples 
{N% no Go Beiya). The main gate 
is always kept closed, but a side 
entrance 1. leads to the priests' 
house. The resident custodian will 
act as guide for a small fee. 

The six Shoguns buried at Ueno belong- 
ed to the Tokugawa family, being the 4th, 
5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 13th, of their 
line. It is still at the private expense 
of the family that these shrines are kept 
up In general style, they closely 
resemble those at Shiba, described on pp. 
115—120, and rank among the priceless 
legacies of the art of Old Japan. Like the 
Shiba shrines, too, they have suffered at 
the hands of thieves since the Revolution 
of 1368. 

This building, a symphony in 
gold and blended colours, has a 
wooden colonnade in front, the red 
walls of which are divided into 
compartments, each containing a 
medallion in the centre, filled with 
painted open-work carvings of birds 
and flowers, with arabesques de- 
rived from the chrysanthemum 
above and a carved wave-design 
below. In the centre of this colon- 
nade is a gate decorated with a 
painting of an angel. From here, 
an open colonnade leads up to the 
steps of the main buildings. The 
porch has brackets carved with 
conventional chrysanthemums. Its 
square columns are adorned with 
plum-blossoms in red and gold. 
Under the beams are red and gold 
lions' heads as brackets. The 



doors of the oratory are carved in 
diapers, and gilded all over. Note 
the tastefully painted diapers on 
the architrave. The ceiling is 
massive, and loaded with metal 
fastenings; in the coffers are 
dragons in gold on a blue ground. 
The interior walls are gilded, hav- 
ing in some places conventional 
paintings of lions, in others mova- 
ble shutters. This apartment is 48 
ft, wide by 21 ft, in depth. The 
corridor which succeeds it is 12 ft. 
wide by 24 ft, in depth, and leads 
to the black lacquered steps of the 
inner sanctum. Its ceiling is 
decorated with the phoenix on a 
green and gold ground. Handsome 
gilt doors covered with carved 
arabesques close the entrance to 
the sanctum, which measures 21 
ft. in depth by 33 ft. in width. 
The ceiling is decorated with fine 
gilt lattice- work in the coffers. The 
small shrines, containing the 
memorial tablets of the illustrious 
dead, are gorgeous specimens of 
gold lacquer. Beginning at the r., 
these shrines are respectively those 
of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns, 
and of K6kyo-In, son of the 10th 
Shogun. R. and 1. are two shrines 
containing tablets of eight mothers 
of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all 
were concubines, not legitimate 
consorts. The actual graves are in 
the grounds behind. The finest, a 
bronze one, is that of the 5th Sho- 
gun. Its bronze gate has magnifi- 
cent panels, with the phoenix and 
unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean cast- 
ing from Japanese designs about 
150 years old. 

The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi no 
Go Beiya) stands close to the Second. 
On leaving the Second, turn to the 
1. to reach the priests' house, where 
application for admission must be 
made. Here he buried the 4th, 
10th, and 11th Shoguns, together 
with several princesses. The monu- 
ment of the 4th is in bronze, the 
others in simple stone. Over the 
grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a 
weeping cherry-tree, placed there 



130 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



to commemorate the love of flowers 
which distinguished that amiable 
prince, whose reign ( A.D. 1787-1838) 
formed the culminating point of 
the splendour of Old Japan. 

On the N.E. side of the park, 
a little to the r., of the Museum, 
stands the Buddhist temple of Ryb- 
Daishi, dedicated to the two great 
abbots, Jie Daishi and Jigen Daishi, 
the former of whom flourished in the 
9th century, the latter in the 16th 
and 17th. The portrait of Jie Daishi 
here preserved is considered one of 
the masterpieces of the great painter 
Kano Tan-yu. Note the six large 
bronze lanterns and the water- 
stand in the court-yard; also the 
large stfipa for the reception of 
relics to the 1. on entering. On this 
side of the park are some buildings 
commonly devoted to art exhibitions 
of various kinds. 

We now leave Ueno, and passing 
along a busy thoroughfare, reach 
the district of Asakusa. The first 
object of interest here is the 
spacious temple of Bigashi Hon- 
gwanji, popularly called Monzeki, 
the chief religious edifice in Tokyo 
of the Monto sect of Buddhists. 
Though very plain, as is usual with 
the buildings of this sect, the 
Monzeki deserves a visit on ac- 
count of its noble proportions. It 
was founded in 1657. The iron 
netting thrown over the temple is 
intended to prevent sparks from 
falling on the wood-work, should 
a conflagration occur in the 
neighbourhood. The huge porch 
is adorned with finely carved 
wooden brackets, the designs being 
chrysanthemum flowers and leaves, 
and peony flowers and leaves. On 
the transverse beams are some 
curiously involved dragons, which 
are the best specimens of this sort of 
work in Tokyo. Observe, too, the 
manner— peculiar to the buildings 
of this sect — in which the beams are 
picked out with white. The area of 
the matted floor of the nave {gejiri) 
is 140 mats, and round the front 
and sides runs a wooden aisle 12 



ft. wide. Over the screen which 
separates the chancel and its side- 
chapels from the nave, are massive 
gilt open-work carvings of angels 
and phoenixes, the largest of which 
are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in 
height. The rest *of the building 
is unadorned. Hanging against the 
gilt background on either side of the 
altar, are to be seen several kake- 
monos of Buddhist saints scarcely 
distinguishable in the "dim religi- 
ous light ; " also r. the posthumous 
tablet of Iyeyasu, which is exposed 
for veneration on the 17th of each 
month. The honzon, Amida, is a 
black image, always exposed to 
view, and standing in a handsome 
shrine of black and gold lacquer. 
From the r. side of the main hall, a 
bridge leads down to the Jiki-do, 
or preaching hall. At the main 
temple, sermons are only preached 
for one week in the year, viz 
from the 21st to 28th November, 
when the imposing services (Hb-on- 
kb) held in honour of the founder 
of the sect are well worth witness- 
ing. On this occasion, the male 
worshippers all appear in the style 
of dress known as kata-ginu, and 
the females with a head-dress called 
tsuno-kakushi (lit. "horn-hider"), — 
both relics of the past. The " horn- 
hider " would seem to have been so 
named in allusion to a Buddhist 
text which says : " A woman's 
exterior is that of a saint, but her 
heart is that of a demon/' — Lesser 
services are held at the time of the 
vernal and antumnal equinoxes. 
Quaint testimony is borne to the 
popularity of this temple with the 
lower middle class by the notices 
posted up on some of the great 
columns in the main hall. Not 
only is there one to prohibit smok- 
ing, but one warning people not 
to come here for their afternoon 
nap {Hiru-ne muyb)! On quitting 
the Monzeki, notice its nobly mas- 
sive roof, with lions rampant at the 
corners, also the two large mono- 
liths r., commemorative of soldiers 
who fell in the China war of 1894-5. 



Asakusa Temple. 



131 



About 7 cho from the Monzeki, 
stands the great Buddhist temple 
of Sensoji, popularly known as the 

Asakusa Kwannon, because 
dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess 
of Mercy. 

A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the 
founding in this locality of a shrine 
sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being 
that the image which is now worshipped 
there, was fished up on the neighbouring 
strand during the reign of the Empress 
Suiko (A.D. 593-628) by a noble of the 
name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who had 
been exiled to this then desolate portion 
of the coast, and with two attendants 
gained his livelihood by casting his nets 
at the mouth of the river Sumida. In his 
fishing-hut the first altar is said to have 
been raised ; and the crest of three nets, 
which is to be seen marking certain 
portions of the buildings, was devised in 
memory of the event. The miraculous 
image is never shown, but is commonly 
believed to be but l'j inch in height : and 
the disproportion between the smallness 
of the image and the vastness of the 
temple has passed into a popular saying. 
Instead of the original sacred image, there 
is exhibited on the 13th December of 
everv year a newer and larger one which 
stands in front of the high altar. In the 
year 1180 Yoritomo endowed the temple 
with ninety acres of arable land. But 
when Ieyasn made Yedo his capital, he 
found the place gone to ruin, and the 
priests living in idleness and immorality. 
The present buildings date from the reign 
of Iemitsu, after the destruction by fire 
of the former edifice. They are in the 
possession of the Tendai sect of Bud- 
dhists. 

On no account should a visit to 
this popular temple and the sur- 
rounding grounds (Koenchi) be 
omitted; for it is a great holiday 
resort of the middle and lower 
classes, and nothing is more strik- 
ing than the juxtaposition of piety 
and pleasure, of gorgeous a] tars 
and grotesque ex-votos, of dainty 
costumes and dingy idols, the 
clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens 
and pigeons strutting about among 
the worshippers, children playing, 
soldiers smoking, believers chaffer- 
ing with dealers of charms, ancient 
art, modern advertisements, — in 
fine, a spectacle than which surely 
nothing more motley was ever wit- 
nessed within the precincts of a 



religious edifice. The most crowd- 
ed times are Sunday afternoon, and 
the 17th and 18th of each month, 
days sacred to Kwannon. 

The outer main gate of the 
temple no longer exists. One 
walks up through a lane of red brick 
shops, where toys, cakes, photo- 
graphs, and gewgaws of all kinds are 
spread out to tempt the multitude. 
The two-storied gate in front of the 
temple is a huge structure of red 
wood, with images of the Ni-o on 
either side. The immense sandals 
hung up in front of the cages con- 
taining these images, are placed 
there by persons desirous of 
becoming good walkers. To the 1., 
immediately before passing through 
the big gate, is a popular Shrine of 
Fudb, just outside of which is a 
shrine of Jizo, distinguishable by 
a praying- wheel {gosho-guruma) 
fixed in a wooden pillar, the whole 
roughly resembling a pillar post- 
box. There is a newer and better 
one inside the court of the Fudo 
shrine, with an inscription to the 
" Lord Jizo, Nourisher of Little 
Children" (see p. 47). Images of 
Jizo stand behind it on a small 
hexagonal structure. 

The praying- wheel is, in Japan, found 
only in connection with the mystic doc- 
trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects, 
and its use differs slightly from that to 
which it is put in Thibet. No prayers are 
written on it ; but the worshipper, attrib- 
uting to ingwa (the Sanskrit karma, 
which means, the effect in this life of the 
actions in a former state of existence) any 
sin of which he wishes to be cleansed, or 
any desire that occurs to him, turns the 
wheel with a simple request to Jizo to let 
this ingwa duly run its course — the course 
of ingwa resembling the perpetual re- 
volutions of a wheel. 

On the opposite or r. side of the 
lane, on a mound, is the large 
Asakusa bell, whose sonorous notes 
are heard all over the northern part 
of the city. The octagonal stone 
towers, one on either side, just 
within the gate, are electric light 
beacons, presented by devotees. 

The great hall of the temple of 
Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is 



132 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



entirely surrounded by a wide 
gallery. The large picture hanging 
above the entrance to the r. sym- 
bolises life (under the figure # of 
two sleeping men and a sleeping 
tiger) as nothing more than a dream, 
the only living reality in which is 
the power of religion (typified by 
a Buddhist priest). 

The eye is caught, on entering, 
by the immense number of lanterns 
and pictures which cover the ceiling 
and walls. These are all offerings 
presented by believers. Some of 
the pictures are by good modern 
artists. One over the shrine to the 
r. represents a performance of the 
No, or mediseval lyric drama, in 
which the red-haired sea-demon 
called Shojo plays the chief part. 
Opposite is a ciirious painted carv- 
ing in relief, representing three 
Chinese heroes of antiquity. Just 
below this rests a huge mokugyo, — 
a hollow wooden block, fish-shaped, 
which priests strike while praying. 
The ceiling is painted with figures 
of angels, the work of KanoDoshun. 
The seated image to the r., with a 
pink bib round its neck, is a cele- 
brated work of Jikaku Daishi, and 
represents Binzuru, the helper of 
the sick. At any time of the day 
believers may be observed rubbing 
it (see p. 44), so that it is now 
partially rubbed away. The stalls 
in front of the main shrine are for 
the sale of pictures of the goddess 
Kwannon, which are used as charms 
against sickness, to help women in 
childbirth, etc., of tickets to say 
whether a child about to be born 
will be a boy or a girl, and so forth. 
There is also a place where fortunes 
are told by the priests. 

The chancel is, as asual, separat- 
ed from the nave by a wire screen, 
and is not accessible to the public. 
A small gratuity to one of the 
priests in charge will, however, 
generally procure admission. On the 
high altar, resplendent with lamps, 
flowers, gold damask, and sacred 
vessels, and guarded by figures of 
tne Shi-Tenno, of Bonten, and of 



Taishaku,— the latter said to be the 
work of Gyogi Bosatsu, — stands the 
shrine containing the sacred image 
of Kwannon. On either side are 
ranged images, some 2 or 3 ft. 
high, of Kwannon in her "Three- 
and-Thirty Terrestrial Embodi- 
ments," each set in a handsome 
shrine standing out against the 
gold ground of the wail. Bight and 
1. of the altar hang a pair of votive 
offerings— golden horses in high 
relief on a lacquer ground— pre- 
sented by the Shogun Iemitsu. On 
the ceiling is a dragon, the work 
of Kan5 Eishin. The side altar to 
the r. is dedicated to Fudo. Observe 
the numerous vessels used in the 
ceremony of the Goma prayers, 
which are frequently offered up 
here for the recovery of the sick. 
The twelve small images are the 
Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwan- 
non. The altar to the 1. is de- 
dicated to Aizen Myo-o, whose red 
image with three eyes and six arms 
is contained in a small shrine. 
The two-storied miniature pagoda 
beside it is simply an offering, as 
are also the thousand small images 
of Kwannon in a case to the 1., and 
the large European mirror, in front 
of which is a life-like image of the 
abbot Zennin Shonin. At the back 
of the main altar is another, called 
lira Kwannon (ura meaning 
"back"), which should be inspected 
for the sake of the modern wall- 
pictures on lacquer with a back- 
ground of gold leaf, by artists of 
the Kand school. 

True wall-paintings, that is, paintings 
executed on a vertical surface, are ex- 
tremely rare in Japan, the only well- 
authenticated examples being these at 
Asakusa, some on plaster in the Kondo of 
the ancient monastery of Horyuji near 
Nara, and others in the lower storey of 
the pagoda of Toji at Kyoto. As a rule, 
all so-called Japanese wall-paintings are 
on large sheets of paper fixed in their 
places after having been painted in a 
horizontal position. 

Above is a crowd of supernatu- 
ral beings, headed by a converted 
dragon in the form of a beautiful 



Asakusa Temple. Yoshiioara. 



133 



Ionian, who offers a large jewel to 
Shaka. Two of the latter's disciples 
(Rakan) are at his r. foot, Monju at 
his 1. foot, and Fugen below on the 
1. Those on the r. and 1. walls are 
the Twenty-eight Manifestations of 
Kwannon. 

In the grounds are several build- 
ings of interest, and a number of 
icho trees whose golden foliage in 
autumn is in itself a sight. Behind 
the great temple to the 1. and facing 
the modern fountain, stands a small 
hexagonal building called Daiho-do 
or Jizo-do and containing a crowd of 
little stone image? seated in tiers 
round a large one of Jizo. This 
divinity being the special protector 
of children parents bring the play- 
things of their dead little ones to his 
shrine. Beyond the Jizo-do, is the 
Nembutsudo, with a pretty altar. 
Turning r., we come to the Banja, — 
a Shinto shrine dedicated to the 
Three Fishermen of the local legend, 
and having panels decorated with 
mythological monsters in gaudy 
colours. Note the bronze and stone 
lions in front. Passing the stage 
on which the Kagura dances are 
performed, we reach the Rinzd, or 
Revolving Library (see p. 45), con- 
tained in a square building with 
carved lions on the eaves, and then 
the Pagoda. Both these are now 
closed to the public. 

To the 1. of the temple buildings 
we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or 
Public Grounds, where stands the 
lofty tower popularly called Ju-ni- 
kai. This building, erected in 
1890, has twelve storeys, as its 
name implies, is 220 ft. in height, 
nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter 
at the base, and commands a more 
extensive view than any other point 
in the city. The grounds of Asa- 
kusa are the quaintest and liveliest 
place in Tokyo. Here are raree- 
shows, penny gaffs, performing 
monkeys, infant prodigies, cheap 
photographers, jugglers, cinema 
shows, theatrical and other figures in 
painted wood and clay, an aquari- 
um, a collection of wild animals, 



stalls for the sale of toys and 
lollypops of every sort, and, circ- 
ulating amidst all these cheap 
attractions, a seething crowd of 
holiday-makers. 

Five min. drive behind the big 
temple, stands a small but noted 
one, Kinryu-zan, dedicated to the 
god Shoden, on a mound called 
Matsuchi-yama. This is a breezy 
spot, with a view across the river 
Sumida towards the cherry avenue 
of Mukojima. There is a ferry 
close by. 

The name Kinryu-zan, lit. " Golden 
Dragon Hill," conies from a legend tell- 
ing how the dragon which anciently 
inhabited the river, climbed up to it 
with a lantern to keep watch over the 
great temple of Kwannon. Far-Eastern 
dragons, be it observed, almost always 
have some connection with water, whe- 
ther river, lake, or rain-cloud. 

About 1 mile to the N. of the great 
Asakusa temple lies the world-famed 
Yoshhcara, the principal quarter 
inhabited by the licensed hetasrae of 
the metropolis. Many of the houses 
within this district are almost pala- 
tial in appearance, and in the eve- 
ning present a spectacle probably 
unparalleled in any other country, 
but reproduced on a smaller scale 
in the provincial Japanese cities. 
The unfortunate inmates, decked 
out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows 
with gold screens behind, and pro- 
tected from the outside by iron 
bars. As the whole quarter is 
under special municipal surveil- 
lance, perfect order prevails, ena- 
bling the stranger to study, while 
walking along the streets, the 
manner in which the Japanese have 
solved one of the vexed questions 
of all ages. Their method, though 
running counter to Anglo-Saxon 
ideas, preserves Tokyd from the 
disorderly scenes that obtrude them- 
selves on the passer-by in our 
western cities. 

Mukojima, celebrated for its 
avenue of cherry-trees, stretches for 
more than a mile along the 1. 
bank of the River Sumida. When 



134 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



the blossoms are out in April, 
Mukojima is densely packed with 
holiday-makers from morn till dusk, 
and the tea-houses on the banks 
and the boats on the river re-echo 
with music and merriment. This 
sight, which lasts for about a week, 
should on no account be missed. 
Yarious regattas are held about the 
same season. The little temple at 
the end of the avenue was raised in 
remembrance of a touching episode 
of the 10th century, which forms 
the subject of a famous lyric 
drama. 

Ume-waka, the child of a noble family, 
was carried off from Kyoto by a slave- 
merchant, and perished in this distant 
spot, where his body was found by a 
good priest who gave it burial. The next 
year his mother, who had roamed over 
the country in search of her boy, came to 
the place, where, under a willow-tree, the 
villagers were weeping over a lowly 
grave. On asking the name of the dead, 
she discovered that it was none other 
than her own son, who during the night 
appeared in ghostly form, and held con- 
verse with her ; but when day dawned, 
nothing remained but the waving 
branches of the willow, and instead of 
his voice only the sighing of the breeze. 
A commemorative service is still held on 
the 15th March ; and if it rains on that 
day, the people say that the rain-drops 
are Ume-waka's tears. 

A still more imposing avenue of 
cherry-trees, both of the single and 
the double variety, some 4 miles in 
length, extends along the 1. bank of 
the Arakawa (the higher reaches of 
the Sumida-gawa) at Kokoku-mura. 
A pleasant way there is by steam- 
launch to Senju, whence walk, or by 
jinrikisha, the return being made by 
train from Nishi-Arai (1 ri from the 
avenue) to Ueno. 

Another favourite flower resort, 
lying about 1 mile beyond the far 
end of Mukojima, is Horikiri, 
famed for its irises which bloom 
early in June. 

7.— Eko-in. The Five Hundeed 
Kakan. Kameido. District of 

FuKAGAWA. SUSAKI. 

Close to Byogoku-bashi, one of 
the largest bridges in the metro- 



polis spanning the Biver Sumida, 
stands the noted Buddhist temple 
of Eko-in. 

In the spring of 1657, on the occasion of 
a terrible conflagration which lasted for 
two days and nights, 107 ,046 persons are 
said to have perished in the flames. This 
figure is no doubt a gross exaggeration ; 
but whatever the number of victims may 
have been, the Government undertook 
the care of their interment, and orders 
were given to Danzaemon, the chief of 
the pariahs,* to convey the bodies to 
Ushijima, as this part of Yedo was then 
called, and dig for them a common pit. 
Priests from all the different Buddhist 
sects came together to recite, for the space 
of seven days, a thousand scrolls of the 
sacred books for the benefit of the souls 
of the departed. The grave was called 
Muen-zuka, or the Mound of Destitution, 
and the temple which was built near it is, 
therefore, also popularly entitled Muen- 
ji. The services for the dead (segaki) are 
regularly held on the 2nd and 19th days 
of each month. Eko-in being, on account 
of its peculiar origin, without the usual 
means of support derived from the gifts 
of the relatives of the dead, was formerly 
used as the place whither sacred images 
were brought from other provinces to be 
worshipped for a time by the people of 
Yedo, and as a scene of public perform- 
ances. The latter custom still survives in 
the wrestling-matches which draw great 
crowds here every spring and winter. 
A new building (Koku-gi-kwan) for these 
matches, was erected in 1909. At Eko-in 
prayers are offered up daily for the souls 
of dead animals. A small fee will procure 
a short service and burial in the temple 
grounds for such domestic pets as cats, 
dogs, etc., a larger sum being necessary if 
the animal's thai, or funeral tablet, has 
also to be furnished. 

Eko-in is a dingy edifice; and 
while the annual wrestling tourna- 
ments are in progress here, with the 
crowds shouting and the children 
scampering in and out, the place 
lacks even the semblance of sancti- 
ty. The only object worth attention 
is a large image of a sleeping Buddha 
(ne-Shaka) to the 1. of the main 



* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations 
were to slaughter animals, tan leather, 
assist at executions, etc. The class as 
such is now abolished ; but remnants of 
its peculiar costume may still occasional- 
ly be seen in the persons of young girls 
with broad hats, who go about the streets 
playing and singing. 



Kameido. Fukagawa. 



135 



altar. In a small arched enclosure 
behind the temple, stands the grave 
of the celebrated highwayman 
Kezumi Kozb, where incense is 
always kept burning. The cemete- 
ry at the back contains monuments 
to those who perished in the fire 
of 1657, and in the great earthquake 
of 1855. 

In the district of Honjo, stands 
the Shinto temple of Temmangu, 
commonly known as Kameido, 
from a stone tortoise covering a 
well in the grounds. Sugawara- 
no-Michizane is here worshipped 
under the title of Temman Dai- 
jizai, i.e., " the Perfectly Free 
and Heaven-Filling Heavenly Divi- 
nity." The grounds have been 
laid out in imitation of those 
at Dazaifu, his place of exile. 
Passing in through the outer gate, 
the eye is first attracted by the 
wistarias trained on trellis, whose 
blossoms, during the first week in 
May, make Kameido one of the chief 
show-places of the capital. They 
grow on the borders of a pond called 
Shinji no Ike, or " Pond of the Word 
Heart," on account of a supposed 
resemblance to ,jj* the Chinese 
character for " heart ;" and one of 
the amusements of visitors is to 
feed the carp and tortoises which 
it contains. A semi-circular bridge 
leads over the pond to a large gate 
in yatsu-mune-zukuri (i.e., eight- 
roofed) style, standing in front of 
the temple. Glass cases inside the 
gate enclose the usual large images 
of Zuijin. Bound the walls of the 
temple hang small pictures on a 
gold ground of the ancient religions 
dances called Bugaku. 

Beyond a shed to the r., contain- 
ing two green and red demons 
bespattered with paper pellets, is an 
exit by which the visitor can reach 
the Ume-yashiki, or Plum-Garden of 
Kameido, 4 chb distant. Here grow 
the Gicaryobai (lit. Plum-trees of 
the Eecumbent Dragon), which are 
much visited early in March, when 
the blossoms are all out. There are 



over 500 trees, all extremely old, 
and partly creeping along the 
ground, whence the name. Most 
of the cut stones which stand about 
the grounds are inscribed with 
stanzas of poetry in praise of the 
flowers ; and during the season, 
similar tributes written on paper 
will be seen hung up on the 
branches. 

The S.E. part of Tokyo, consist- 
ing of the district of Fukagawa 
on the 1. bank of the Eiver Sumida, 
is a maze of narrow streets, chiefly 
inhabited by the lower trading and 
artisan classes, and offers little for 
the sightseer. 

Joshinji, though the chief temple 
of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is 
quite unpretentious ; but there are 
some good carvings on the gates of 
the priests' dwellings which line 
the narrow street leading up to it. 
In the court-yard is a large bronze 
image of Shaka supported on the 
shoulders of stone demons ; and at 
the back, beyond the cemetery, a 
curious superstitious practice may 
be witnessed at the shrine of 
Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone figure 
of the saint stands in a little wooden 
shed hung round with small reg- 
ularly cut bundles of straw. The 
faithful purchase these at the gate, 
dip them in water, brush the image 
with them, and then ladle water 
over its head, believing that this 
ceremony will ensure a favourable 
reply to their petitions. The image 
is constantly wet, showing how firm 
the belief is. 

The Buddhist temple commonly 
known as Fukagawa no Fudo, in 
Tomioka Monzen-cho, is subsidiary 
to the great shrine at Karita; and 
in imitation of the latter the 
grounds are laid out in rococo 
style, with inscribed stone slabs 
and numerous bronze statuettes. 
It presents a lively appearance on 
the 1st, 15th, and 28th of each 
month. 

The adjacent Shinto temple of 
Hachiman, dating from A.D. 1688, 



136 



Route 4. — Tokyo. 



shows traces of former Buddhist 
influence. The walls and ceiling 
are decorated with paintings of 
birds and flowers, and there are 
also some pretty wood-carvings. 
The ornamentation of the chancel 
is extremely rich, the ceiling being 
panelled, and gold profusely em- 
ployed. Doves fly about the 
grounds, as is usual in temples 
sacred to Hachiman. They are 
supposed to act as this god's mes- 
sengers, — strange messengers from 
the God of War ! 

The district situated between the 
temple of Hachiman and that of 
SusaM-no-Benten is noted for its 
trade in timber, the town being here 
intersected by numerous canals 
communicating with the river, 
down which come the timber-laden 
rafts from the inland provinces. 
The temple of Susaki no Benten 
dates from the latter part of the 
17th century, at which time the 
ground on which it was erected 
had only recently been reclaimed. 
The temple itself is uninteresting ; 
but on a clear day there is a good 
view from the embankment. At low 
tide, which the Japanese consider 
the prettiest time, and especially 
if the season be spring, numerous 
pleasure boats, with singing-girls 
and other merry-makers, will be 
seen lazily floating about in the 
offing, watching the oyster-gatherers 
ply their trade. 

8. — Tsukiji. 

On the Avay from the Shimbashi 
terminus to the former Foreign 
Concession in Tsukiji, several 
important modern buildings are 
passed:— 1. the Fifteenth Bank, r. 
the Imperial Department of Com- 
munications, and further on the 
Department of Agriculture and Com- 
merce, a large building, one wing of 
whch is occupied by a small but in- 
teresting Commercial Museum, open 
from 9 to 3 in summer, and 10 
to 3 in winter. Near by stand the 



Seiyoken Hotel and the Kabuki- 
za, one of the best old-style theatres 
in the metropolis. The Naval 
Academy is seen to the r. beyond 
the canal. Still further to the r. is 
the Shiba Rikyii, formerly the sum- 
mer palace of the Shoguns. It is 
used once a year for an Imperial 
Garden party, at the season when 
the masses of double cherry-flowers 
are in bloom. The Shiba Rikyu is 
not open to the general public. 

On the way to Tsukiji stands the 
Nishi Hongwanji, popularly called 
the Tsukiji Monzeki, a huge temple 
belonging to the rich and powerful 
Monto sect. It has frequently been 
burnt down, last of all in 1897 ; but 
the main building was restored in 
1901, and merits inspection for 
the sake of its massive hall and the 
symphony in gold which adorns it. 
Compare p. 130 for a description of 
the twin temple called Higashi Hon- 
gwanji. 

A large proportion of the European 
buildings in Tsukiji are devoted to 
religious and educational purposes. 
The most conspicuous places of 
worship are the Cathedral of the 
Protestant Episcopal Church of 
America and the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral. Beyond the river Sumida 
lie Ishikawa-jima and Tsuki-jima, 
where there are dockyards and fac- 
tories. The land is gaining rapidly 
on the water in this district, the 
whole spit opposite the Bund having 
been reclaimed within the last five- 
and-thirty years. On a fine breezy 
day, the vessels sailing into the 
mouth of the river add picturesque 
animation to the scene. 




J)ais1ugawaT€b 



A KdjLtiuudvL 

B Kanda, 

C Nihonbashi; 

D Kyobasht 

E SlvCbcu 

F AkasaJccb 

G ^4 tabic 

H Yotsuyas 

I Ushigomes 

J Koisldkawos 



K Jforif/o 

L Shitayas 

M Asakzisa- 

N JTotz/o 

O Fukagawas 

P ^ere<? 

Q Shimbashv 

R TsuJajv 

S Itnpl. Pa lad 

T TsukwkLJinia 



FOR MURRAY S HANDBOOK. 



OYODO ENGRAVING OFFICE TOKYO. 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



137 



KOTJTE 5. 



Excursions feom Tokyo. 

1. megueo. 2. ikegami and hane- 
da. 3. futago. 4. juniso, hoei- 
no-uchi, and i-no-kashiea. 5. 
coemoeant-fishtng on the tama- 
gawa. 6. k.oganei. 7. taeao- 
zan. 8. mitake. 9. oji. 10. the 
caves neae ednostj. 11. naeita. 
12. ascent of tsufjuba-san. 

1.— Megueo. 

Meguro ( Tea-houses, Uchida, 
Daikoku-ya, and others), is a popu- 
lar picnic resort, 3 miles out of the 
city westwards by road or rail ; but 
the station lies about a mile from 
the Tillage. Shortly after leaving 
the station at the top of a descent 
called Gyonin-zaka, one sees 1. the 
small temple of Daienji, which 
deserves passing notice for the sake 
of its Go-hyaku Bakan,— Hex upon 
tier of small seated Buddhist 
images in various attitudes of 
meditation, quaint yet pathetic in 
their stony stillness. Meguro is 
seen to best advantage when either 
the peonies or the chrysanthemums 
are in blossom. There are three 
permanent sights, — the Temple of 
Fudo, the temple of the Go-hyaku 
Bakan (not to be confounded with 
Daienji, mentioned above) and the 
graves of Gompachi and Komurasaki. 
The key to the grave-yard is kept 
at the Kado-Ise tea-house at the r. 
corner of the turning which leads 
to the temple of Fudo. The grave 
is called Kiyoku-zuka, after the hi- 
yoku, a fabulous double bird which 
is revered as the emblem of con- 
stancy in love. It may be added 
that sentiment is the only motive 
for visiting the spot, as there is 
really nothing to see. 

About 270 years ago, there lived a 
young man named Shirai Gompachi, who 
at the age of sixteen had already won a 
name for his skill in the use of arms, but, 



having had the misfortune to kill a fellow- 
clansman in a quarrel over a dog, was 
compelled to fly from his native province. 
While resting at an inn on his way to 
Yedo, a beautiful girl named Komurasaki 
came and awoke him at midnight, to tell 
him that a band of robbers, who had 
stolen her from her home, intended to 
slay him for the sake of the sword which 
every samurai at that time carried. 
Eeing thus forewarned, Gompachi suc- 
ceeded in killing the thieves when the 
attack was made upon him. He also 
restored the girl to her grateful father, a 
rich merchant, who would have been glad 
to make the young man his son-in-law ; 
but being ambitious, Gompachi insisted 
on pursuing his way to Yedo. Meanwhile, 
unhappy Komurasaki was left to pine for 
the handsome youth with whom she had 
fallen deeply in love. After further 
adventures, Gompachi reached Yedo, only 
however to fall into dissolute habits. 
Hearing much praise of a lovely and ac- 
complished girl who had just become 
an inmate of the Yoshiwara, Gompachi 
went to see her, and was astonished to 
find in the famous beauty no other than 
the maiden whom he had but a few 
months before rescued from the robbers' 
den. It was the usual pathetic story. 
Her parents having become poverty- 
stricken, she had sold herself in order to 
alleviate their distress. Frequent visits 
to his sweetheart soon exhausted Gom- 
pachi's slender means, and in desperation 
he resorted to murder for the sake of 
money to spend at the Yoshiwara. The 
crime was repeated, until he was caught 
red-handed, and met the fate of a 
common malefactor. A friend claimed 
the body and buried it at Meguro, 
whither poor Komurasaki hastened on 
hearing the sad news of her lover's end, 
and throwing herself on the newly-made 
grave, plunged a dagger into her bosom 
and died. 

Shortly before reaching the tem- 
ple of Fudo a building to the r. 
contains a set of wooden images 
of the 500 Bakan, originally gilt 
over red lacquer, almost life-size, 
arranged on shelves in the r. and 1. 
wings, while the centre is occupied 
by other images. Of these the most 
conspicuous and largest represents 
Shaka with Anan on his r. hand 
and Kasho on his 1., and still fur- 
ther 1. a large gilt Kwannon. 
Another small image of Kwannon 
(not gilt) is seen in the front row 
which also contains Mokuren, Da- 
ruma, and Shinhotsu. Behind the 
latter is seen a coloured seated 



138 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



image of Sho-un, an artist of the 
17th century to whose chisel the 
whole set is attributed. 

At the bottom of the steps lead- 
ing up to the temple of Fudo, is a 
pool fed by two tiny cascades. To 
stand naked under the stream of 
water for several hours in cold 
weather is considered a meritorious 
penance, the effect of which is to 
wash away all taint of sin. Tradi- 
tion says that Jikaku Daishi, the 
founder of this temple, miraculous- 
ly called the spring into existence 
by the aid of his mace (tokko), 
whence the name of Tokko- r iio-taki, 
or Mace Cascade.— One hour's walk 
to the S.W. of Meguro, lies the 
ancient, but much decayed, temple 
of Ku-hon-butsu, so called from 
nine large gilded images of Buddha 
there enshrined. 

2.— Ikegami. Haneda-no-Inaei. 

Xkegami is reached by train or 
tram to Omori station on the Yoko- 
hama line, whence it is about 1 m. 
by jinrikisha. (If coming from 
Yokohama, alight at Kamata station, 
whence 15 chb.) The great temple 
of Hommonji (see p. 40 for plan) is 
celebrated as the spot where the 
Buddhist saint Nichiren died in 
AD. 1282. Its fine situation and 
magnificent timber make it one of 
the most attractive points within 
easy reach of Tokyo. The best 
time to visit it is on the 12th— 13th 
October, when the annual festival 
in Nichiren's honour takes place. 
On this occasion over 20,000 per- 
sons make the pilgrimage. An- 
other festival is held from the 22nd 
to 28th April. At the top of the 
temple steps is 1. the Daimuku-db, 
where some of the faithful are gen- 
erally to be heard beating the drum 
and reciting the formulary of the 
sect, — " Namu Mybhb Renge Kyb." 
Next to this is a shrine dedicated 
to Kato Kiyomasa. Then comes 
the Shaka-db, or Hall of Shaka, 
where worshippers pass the night 



at the time of the annual festival, 
with, behind it, another building 
containing a complete set of the 
Buddhist scriptures which may be 
made to revolve on a huge hexagonal 
wheel. Connected with the Shaka- 
do by a wooden bridge is the Soshi- 
db, or Founder's Hall, dedicated to 
Nichiren, the restoration of which 
in handsome style evinces the 
popularity which this saint enjoys. 
On the altar stands an exquisitely 
lacquered shrine, containing a life- 
size image of Nichiren in sitting 
posture, said to have been carved 
by Nichiro, one of his chief dis- 
ciples. The upper part of the wall 
is decorated with pictures of angels 
playing on musical instruments. 
Behind the altar, outside the tem- 
ple, is a pictorial representation of 
the chief incidents in the saint's 
life. The buildings at the rear of 
this are the temple offices; others 
in process of construction will re- 
place the Priests' Apartments, etc., 
burnt down some years ago. Al- 
though Nichiren died at Ikegami, 
his bones were conveyed to Minobu ; 
all that remain here are one tooth 
and the ashes of his funeral pyre. 
The shrine (Kotsu-db) containing 
these relics is a short way down the 
hill to the 1., in a line with the 
former Priests' Apartments. This 
building, about 20 ft. in diameter, 
is of the shape of an Indian stupa 
reposing on a huge lotus-flower of 
stone. A gilt shrine of the same 
form as the building itself stands 
inside on a table formed of a lotus- 
flower carried by eight green 
tortoises, and inside this again is 
a crystal jar with the relics. The 
interior, though not accessible, may 
be fairly well seen through the wire 
grating of the windows. At the 
top of the small hill immediately 
above the Kotsu-do, stands a stone 
monument marking the original 
burial-place of the saint {Kbso 
Mi-tamaya). Below the Kotsu-do, 
down a few steps, there are three 
shrines, the smallest of which 
(Daibb), much visited by pilgrims, 



lkegami. Hameda. Hori-no-uchi. 



139 



occupies the site of the house in 
which Nichiren died. Here is 
shown a tiny image which he is 
said to have carved with the aid of 
a mirror on the day preceding his 
death ; also the pillar against which 
he leant during his last moments. 

One may picnic either at the inn 
(Tamba-ya) in the village, or at the 
small tea-houses perched on the 
hillside halfway up the temple 
steps. A third place, immediately 
below the pagoda, is the immense 
tea-house of Akebono-ro, popularly 
known as lkegami Onsen, It is 
quite a curiosity, sprawling as it 
does up and down two hills by 
means of galleries and bridges, 
while the fine old plum-trees, by 
which it is surrounded, rising from 
a mass of rockery, present a de- 
lightful sight in early March, when 
the buildings are literally embower- 
ed in the fragrant blossom. 

At Haneda, near the mouth 
of the Tamagawa, and reached 
by electric tram from Kamata (10 
min.) stands the shrine of Anamori 
no Inari, — small, but curious owing 
to the thousands of torii, which a 
burst of modern piety has erected 
there. The two chief festivals are 
on the " Middle Day of the Horse " 
(Nako-no-Uma), in March, and Sep- 
tember. The best inn is the Shinoda- 
kwan. 

3.— Futago. 

Futago (Inn, Kame-ya) stands 
on the r. bank of the Tamagawa, 
2£ ri from Tokyo. A tramway runs 
from the Shibuya suburb to Tama- 
gawa (opposite Futago) in Jhr. where 
a small park has been laid out on 
the neighbouring bluff. During the 
summer months the Japanese visit 
Futago for the sake of the sport— if 
sport it can be termed— of watching 
fishermen net the at, a kind of trout. 
\\ ri down the river from Futago 
lies Mariko, a place of similar 
character. An alternative way of 
returning to Tokyo is to take boat 
down the river to Kawasaki station, 
about 2 hrs. from Futago. 



4. — JtJNIs5, HOBI-NO-UCHI, AND 
I-NO-KASHIEA. 

Juniso. Tram to Shinjiku whence 
a short walk or ride. Crossing 
the railway, the extensive buildings 
seen 1. are those of the water- works 
for the supply of Tokyo. The road 
to Junisd turns off 1. by the further 
side of these works, and in 10 min. 
comes to the small thatched temple 
of JiXnisb Gongen, dedicated to the 
gods of Kumano. Below the temple 
lies a large pond, plentifully stock- 
ed with a species of carp, and sur- 
rounded by tea-sheds and tea-houses. 
Juniso is a favourite spot for picnic 
parties in the warmer months. 

Hori-no-uchi lies J hr. distant 
from Juniso by jinrikisha. The 
way leads back by another path in 
5_ min. to the main road (the old 
Ome Kaido,), along which we pro- 
ceed for 10 min. before again turn- 
ing 1. partly through the fields and 
partly along an avenue of double 
cherry-trees lined with shops for 
the sale of rosaries, salted plums, 
toys, etc. The temple of Myohoji 
at Hori-no-uchi, belonging to the 
Nichiren sect, merits a visit for 
the sake of the excellent carvings 
that adorn the main building,— 
those of dragons in the porch, 
below the architrave, and in the 
eaves being especially spirited. 
The iron gates and railing to the 
r. of the main entrance are good 
specimens of modern workman- 
ship. On the 1. of the court is a 
long shed filled with a curious 
collection of ex-votos, such as the 
queues of men whose prayers have 
been granted by the interposition 
of Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In 
the main hall, a splendid shrine 5 
ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered 
with gilt carvings, occupies the 
centre of the further side of the 
chancel. It contains a seated 
image of Nichiren, said to be the 
earliest effigy of that saint, and to 
have been carved in A.D. 1261. It 
can be seen and a short service in 
its honour witnessed, on payment 



140 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



of a small fee. The principal 
festival is held on the 13th Octo- 
ber, the anniversary of Nichiren's 
death. A polite request will gener- 
ally gain admission to the pretty 
landscape garden attached to the 
main temple. 

Proceeding for 4f m. over a flat 
country, and past the once noted 
Shinto temple of Omiya Hachiman, 
we reach the Temple of JBenten, 
situated on theborders of the little 
lake of I-no-kashira. 

History says that in 1600 the lake was 
visited by leyasu, who found the water 
so excellent that it was used ever after 
for making His Highness's tea. In 1639 
his grandson, the Shogun Iemitsu, gave 
orders for the water to be laid on to the 
Castle in Yedo. 

I-no-kashira attracts visitors 
chiefly in April for the cherry- 
blossoms, and in May for the 
azaleas. The return may be made 
from Kichijoji station, which is 
only 2 cho from I-no-kashira, and £ 
hr. from Shinjiku. 



5. — CoEMOEANT-FlSHING ON THE 

Tamagawa. 

This curious method of catching 
fish may be seen at Hino, a vill. 
on the Tamagawa. This place is 
reached by train from Tokyo (Shin- 
jiku) in a little over 1 hr., whence 8 
cho by jinrikisha to the Tamagawa-tei 
tea-house where the cormorants are 
kept, and 2 cho further to the river. 
The charge for three fishermen, 
a covered boat (yane-bune) and man 
is 6 yen ; without the boat, 3 J yen. 
The season lasts from mid-June to 
mid-October, being conveniently 
carried on during the daytime, — 
not at night, as at the better known 
cormorant fishery of Gifu on the 
Tokaido. The fishermen wade about 
in the water, holding the ungainly 
birds by strings, and relieving them 
of their prey, which is then handed 
over to the boatman. A few small 
trout (ai) may generally be reckoned 



on, and can be cooked at the tea- 
house if desired. 



6.— Koganei. 

Koganei, with a fine avenue of 
cherry-trees 2J m. in length along 
the banks of the small canal that 
conducts the waters of the Tama- 
gawa to T6ky5, should be visited 
only when the trees are in blossom. 
It is reached by train to Sakai on 
the Hachioji line, J hr. from Shin- 
jiku Junction, and 20 min. distant 
from the avenue. 

Ten thousand young trees were brought 
from Yoshino in Yamato, — the most 
famous place for cherry-trees in Japan, — 
and from the banks of the Sakura-gawa 
in Hitachi, and planted here in 1735 by 
command of the Shogun Yoshimune. 

The crowds that assemble daily 
to revel under the shade of the pink 
and white blossoms about the mid- 
dle of April, present a gay spectacle. 
Instead of returning to Sakai, it 
will be found shorter to walk on to 
Kokubunji station, about 20 min. 
from the upper end of the avenue. 



7. — Taeao-zan. 



O 


Names 




125 


of 


Kemarks 


ft «2 


Stations 






SHINJIKU Jet. 




|m. 


Okubo 




3 


Nakano 




H 


Ogikubo 




n 


Kichijoji 


For I-no-kashi- 
ra. 


13 


Sakai 


For Koganei. 


Kokubunji Jet... 


17 


Tachikawa Jet... 


For Tamagawa 


19 


Hino 


Valley,Rte.30. 


20i 


Toyoda 




23 


HACHIOJI 




26| 


Asakawa 





This is a favourite excursion in 
spring and autumn with holiday- 



Takao-zan, Mitalce. 



141 



makers from Tokyo and Yokohama. 
The railway journey to Asakawa 
{Inn, Hana-ya) occupies lh hr., 
whence \ hr. by jinrikisha to the 
foot of Takao-zan and 1 hr. walk 
under the shade of lofty trees up to 
the temple buildings. 

The railway, on leaving Shinjiku, 
leads for a short distance close to 
the Florists' Gardens of Okubo, 
noted for their azaleas, the rest of 
the route passing mostly over the 
richly cultivated plain. The Tama- 
gawa and one of its affluents are 
crossed before reaching Haciiioji 
{Inn, Kadoki), the centre of an im- 
portant silk district. 

Takao-zan is a hill rising some 
1,600 ft. above the sea. On the 
summit stands a much frequent- 
ed temple, surrounded by a splen- 
did grove, chiefly of cryptomerias, 
planted by Buddhist devotees. 
The road is lined with posts, on 
which are recorded the names of 
persons who have presented young 
trees, so many hundreds at a time, 
with the object of maintaining the 
grove undiminished. It is also 
marked by images of K6b5 Daishi 
enclosed in iron railings (eighty 
eight in all) an offering of modern 
piety. On the platform at the top 
of the ascent stands a fine bronze 
pagoda, 12 ft. in height. Above this, 
on another terrace, is the main 
shrine, dedicated to Fudo, and 
adorned with good uncoloured carv- 
ings, while at the top of a long flight 
of steps is a gaudily decorated 
Shinto shrine with painted carvings. 
Observe the two bronze images of 
winged tengu on the verandah. 
The annual festival takes place on 
the 21st April. Ten min. climb by 
a path behind the temples leads to 
the actual summit, which being 
clear of trees, affords a splendid view 
of mountains and the far-stretching 
plain. On the descent, some way 
down the avenue, a different, but 
steeper, path may be taken. It 
affords pretty glimpses of the dense- 
ly wooded valley, and leads to Biwa- 
no-taki, a waterfall under which 



people stand to obtain relief from 
brain disease. 



8. — Mitake. 

Mitake is a sacred peak, easily 
reached from Tokyo in one day 
by taking train to Hinata Wada 
(see Route 30. Sect. 3). There are 
two ways of proceeding on from 
Ome, viz., the Hinata Kaido, or 
"Sunny Road " on the 1. bank of 
the Tamagawa, and the Hikage 
Kaido, or " Shady Road," on the 
r. bank. The best plan is to take 
jinrikisha to Saicai (2 ri) whence 
the jinrikisha men will shoulder 
the luggage for 1 ri over a rough 
road to the first torii at the bottom 
of the hill and thence 24 cho more 
up to the priests' dwellings. The 
vill. of Mitake possesses no inns; 
but accommodation will be granted 
by the priests, who, though not 
making any charge, should be duly 
remunerated. The priesthood here 
has for ages been hereditary in a 
few families, who intermarry almost 
exclusively among each other. The 
Main Temple, just above the vill., is 
sacred to the Shinto deities 
Onamuji, Kushimachi, Sukuna- 
bikona, and Ukemochi-no-kami, the 
divine protectress of silkworms. 
The Oku-no-in, 18 cho distant, is 
dedicated to Yamato-take. 

Grand timber and a profusion of 
flowering shrubs clothe the steep 
sides of all this maze of hills. The 
best expedition at Mitake, occupy- 
ing half a day, is to the waterfalls 
of Nanayo-taki, thence up Odake, 
a high peak at a considerable dis- 
tance, and back over the Oku-no-in 
to the village. This walk may be 
curtailed by omitting Odake. 

The return to Ome may be varied 
by taking the hill path over to 
Unamica on the Tamagawa, a walk 
of 1J hr., almost entirely under 
shade, but affording prettily diver- 
sified views, whence 12£ m. down 
the valley by the main road into 
Hinata Wada. 



142 



Route 5.— Excursions from Tokyo. 



9.— Oji. 

The vill. of Oji, long a favourite 
retreat in the suburbs of Tokyo, 
now presents more the aspect of a 
manufacturing centre than of a 
holiday resort. Huge brick build- 
ings, paper and cotton mills, the 
clash of machinery, and lofty chim- 
neys from which columns of smoke 
sweep over the cherry-trees on 
Asuka-yama, deprive the place of 
much of its_ former tranquillity 
and beauty. Oji, nevertheless, still 
remains one of the attractions in 
the environs of the great city ; and 
crowds flock thither twice yearly, — 
in spring when the cherry-trees are 
in blossom, and in autumn when 
the maples lining the banks of the 
little stream called Takino-gawa 
put on their crimson tints. 

The train from Ueno station 
lands one in a few minutes close to 
the noted tea-houses, Ogi-ya and 
Ebi-ya, which stand together on 
the edge of the water, and look out 
on a small but tastefully arranged 
garden. Half a mile beyond the 
tea-houses, in a grove of evergreen 
oaks on the top of a slight emi- 
nence, stands the Temple of Inari, 
consisting of two rather dilapidated 
buildings. In the court-yard are 
some fine old cherry-trees. The tem- 
ple and small waterfall dedicated 
to Fud5, also in the vicinity of the 
tea-houses, attract many visitors. 



10.— The Caves (Hyaku Ana) neab 

Konosu. 

These interesting aritficial Caves 
are situated at Kita Yoshimi-mura 
in the prefecture of Saitama, and 
within the limits of a short day's 
excursion from Tokyo. Rail from 
Ueno station to Konosu (Rte. 11), in 
1J hr., whence 2J ri by basha. On 
the way, a quaint old temple of Kwan- 
non is seen, wedged in between 
rocks, from the inner side of which 
an entrance leads to a chamber 



containing a number of stone 
images of Kwannon. A few yards 
beyond stands the office of the local 
authorities, by whom the caves are 
now maintained. The whole hill- 
side, a greyish tufaceous sandstone, 
is honeycombed with these relics of 
a remote antiquity, whose origin 
and use have given rise to not a 
little controversy amongst the 
learned. 

Mr. Aston, the pioneer, in Japanese 
archaeological research, followed by Dr. 
Munro, believes that these and similar 
caves elsewhere, were primarily intended 
for sepulchres, although some were 
doubtless used as shelters by beggars and 
outlaws at a later period ; while Dr. 
Tsuboi, of the Imperial University of 
Tokyo, an energetic worker in the 
same field, maintains that they were the 
habitations of the beings whom the 
Japanese term " earth spiders." The 
original Japanese word is tsuchi-gumo. 
There is considerable doubt as to its 
etymology, though every one agrees in 
interpreting it to denote a race of cave- 
dwelling savages. Motoori, the greatest 
of all Japanese literati, explains the name 
by a comparison of the habits of the race 
in question with those of the spider. But 
it is surely more rational to regard the 
word tsuchi-gumo as a corruption of 
tsuchi-gomori, " earth -Aiders," than which 
no name could be more appropriate to 
troglodytes. 

The caves, most of which face 
due S., are believed to number two 
hundred and thirty-seven in all. 
The entrances are about 3 ft. 
square ; then comes a passage of 6 
ft. and upwards in length, leading 
to a second doorway, within which 
are the chambers. These are of 
various sizes, many being 6 ft. 
square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high. 
The ceilings are dome-shaped. 
Each chamber contains one or two 
ledges having slightly raised 
borders. Traces of the use of tools 
are visible on the walls. Iron rings, 
arrow-heads, etc., have been found 
in some of the caves ; but the 
presence of these is doubtless due to 
the fact, as local tradition asserts, 
that parties of fighting men took 
refuge here in more modern times. 
The town of Matsuyama lies 13 cho 
off. It contains a large Shinto 



Temple of Narita. 



143 



temple to the gods of Inari, known 
as Yakyu Inari. 

11. — The Temple of Narita. 

Shrine of Sakura Sogoro. 
Kadori. 

A visit to the famous shrine of 
the god Fudd at Narita is recom- 
mended to those who would see 
Buddhism still a power in the land, 
alive and flourishing in the soil of 
popular piety. The wood-carvings, 
too, that adorn some of the build- 
ings are excellent specimens of 
modern art. Trains run from 
Tokyo (Ryogoku-bashi station) in 
2J hrs. (see Route 21). An alterna- 
tive way (time about the same) is 
to take the Abiko line starting from 
Ueno. An electric tramway from 
Honjo to Narita is under construc- 
tion. The village of Narita, clus- 
tering at the base of the low hill on 
which the temple stands, possesses 
a large number of inns. The 
"Wakamatsu-ya and Ebi-ya are the 
best. 

The full name of this holy place is 
Narita-san Shingo Shinshoji, i.e. "the 
Divinely Protected Temple of Recent 
Victory on Mount Narita." The story of 
its origin is as follows : — 

At the time of thf> foundation of the 
Buddhist faith, an Indian sculptor named 
Bishukatsuma carved a wonder-working 
image of the god Fudo (see p. 46), which 
image, after the lapse of many centuries, 
was sent to China, where it passed into 
the hands of a holy priest named Keikwa 
Ajari. When the great Japanese saint, 
Kobo Daishi, visited China in A.D. 801, to 
seek instruction in Buddhist mysteries, 
this priest it was who became bis teacher ; 
and when teacher and disciple were about 
to part, each was warned in a dream 
that the miraculous image was destined 
for Japan, and accordingly Kobo Daishi 
brought it home with him and enshrined 
it in a temple on Takao-zan near Kyoto, 
together with attendant figures of Seitaka 
Doji and Kongara Doji which he carved 
with his own hand. Now it happened 
that about a century and a half later, 
a revolution broke out. Masakado, a 
courtier of high birth, taking offence at 
the refusal to appoint him on the staff 
of an embassy about to start for China, 
rebelled against the legitimate sovereign, 



Sbujaku TennS. Retiring to his native 
province of Shimosa, he sacrilegiously 
assumed the title of Mikado, built him- 
self a capital in which the place-names 
round about Kyoto were plagiarised, 
established a mimic Court, and having 
made himself master of several provinces 
in Eastern Japan, prepared to march 
upon Kyoto. The legitimate Mikado, 
thereupon, not content with despatching 
against the rebel such valiant loyal war- 
riors asFuiiwara-no-Tadabumi, Taira-no- 
Sadamori, and Tawara-Toda Hidesato, 
applied to the priests for supernatural 
assistance. It was found that no god was 
so powerful as Fudo, and no image of 
him so miraculous as that which Kobo 
Daishi had brought over. Accordingly 
Kwancho Daisojo, a celebrated abbot of 
those days, who was also a scion of the 
Imperial family, was commissioned to 
carry the image to the seat of war and 
exorcise the enemy. The abbot embark- 
ed at Naniwa (now the city of Osaka), and 
soon landed on the coast of Eastern 
Japan, whence he proceeded inland, and, 
having set up the miraculous image on a 
rock near the rebel's capital performed 
before it for three weeks the Goma cere- 
mony, that is, prayers and incantations 
recited while a fire is kept burning on 
the altar. The result was the total defeat 
and death of Masakado in the year 940, 
the triumph of the loyalists, and prepa- 
rations on the part of the abbot to return 
home, when lo and behold ! the image 
waxed heavy as a rock, and utterly 
refused to move ! As usual, a dream 
served to explain matters. The god 
Fudo appeared, and declared his inten- 
tion of remaining where he was, to bless 
and civilize Eastern Japan. Accordingly 
the grateful Mikado granted funds for 
the construction of a temple on a grand 
scale ; and as local circumstances forbade 
the image from remaining on the exact 
spot where it had at first been set up, lots 
weie drawn by thirty- three villages in 
the surrounding country-side, and the lot 
fell on Narita. Time brought further 
changes, and the present site— the hill 
known as Myoken-zan — was built on only 
in 1704. Probably the great popularity 
of the Narita shrine dates from about 
that period. In any case, the then recent 
founding of the new capital, Yedo, in the 
near neighbourhood had furnished it with 
a large number of potential pilgrims ; 
and for some reason otherwise inexplica- 
ble, actors and other public entertainers, 
who flourish most in great cities, have 
long been its most ardent votaries. Many 
repairs and additions were made during 
the past century, the great Ni-6 gate 
dating from 18 51, and the Mido from 
1856. Of the many relics preserved in 
the treasure house of Narita, the most 
highly valued is the Amakuni-no-hbken, a 
sword said to have been forged by Ama- 
kuni, the first of all Japanese smiths, for 



144 



Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. 



the Emperor Momrau (A.D. 683—697), 
who prized it equally with his crown 
regalia. After the suppression of Masa- 
kado's rebellion, this sword was presented 
to the god Fudo by the then Emperor 
Shujaku, in grateful acknowledgment of 
that deity's assistance. One touch of it 
is believed to cure insane persons and 
those possessed of foxes. It would seem, 
however, to be now never shown. A 
festival takes place on the 28th of each 
month, April, and May being the most 
crowded. 

The temple stands on the side of 
a hill in a fine grove of cryptomerias 
and other trees. It is approached 
from the inns by a paved avenue 
lined with stone lanterns. To the 
r. of the Tamagaki (stone wall), is 
a well where pilgrims perform the 
ceremony of washing with cold 
water. Close by is the Danjiki-do, 
whither devotees retire to fast 
during a whole week, the only 
refreshment permitted to them being 
the use of the cold bath. Formerly 
the period was three weeks. 

Tradition says that this practice was 
instituted about the middle of the 16th 
century by the saint Doyo, who passed 
a hundred days in religious exercises. 
At last his prayers were answered by a 
vision of the god, who offered him the 
choice of a sharp or a blunt sword to 
swallow. The saint chose the sharp one, 
which the god thrust down his throat, 
causing the blood to flow freely. On 
awakening he found his intellectual 
powers immensely increased, and felt no 
traces of the wound. Nevertheless, 
priestly robes dyed with the blood spilt 
on this occasion are preserved among the 
treasures of the temple. 

In a building to the r. of the 
Danjiki-dd, worshippers may often 
be seen seated in a circle, handing 
round one to another a huge rosary 
to which a bunch of horse-hair is 
attached, and chanting the invoca- 
tion " Ndmu Amida Butsu." Oppo- 
site is the Onna Danjiki-dd, reserved 
for females. Both buildings have 
ex-votos over the entrance. To 
the 1. of the Tamagaki, a shrine 
called the Daishi-do, dedicated to 
Kobo Daishi, contains an image of 
that saint, besides fine carvings of 
dragons. The other buildings are 
residences of the priests. 



The Ni-o-mon, at the top of the 
first flight of steps, is a massive 
structure of keyaki wood, orna- 
mented with carvings by Gotd 
Kisaburo. Under the architrave 
are eight groups representing Chi- 
nese children at play, and sages, 
probably intended for the " Seven 
Sages of the Bamboo Grove," whose 
recreations are chess, music, draw- 
ing, and calligraphy. At the r. end 
are groups of young cock-fighters, 
and the child delivered from the 
tall water-jar by his sharp-witted 
companion Shiba Onko, who breaks 
a hole in it with a stone to let the 
water escape. In front r. is a sage 
writing an inscription, 1. another 
playing on the harp. On the 1. 
side are children at play, and a 
group the central figure of which 
dances to the music of flageolet and 
drum. At the back, are groups of 
checker-players and of sages in- 
specting a picture. Close to the r. 
of the Ni-6-mon stands a handsome 
granite beacon erected in 1894, and 
decorated with the names of the 
donors in lettering of bright red, — 
the colour of Fudo's flames. Notice 
also the huge sword meant* to scare 
away evil-doers. 

On either side of the steps leading 
up from this gate to the Hondo, 
or Main Temple, the prettily ar- 
ranged rockwork, crowded with 
bronze and stone figures, has a 
peculiarly bizarre but not unpleas- 
ing effect. 

As one approaches the Hondo, 
the first thing that strikes the eye 
is the huge receptacle for money- 
offerings. Above it is a large panel 
with carvings of phoenixes gor- 
geously coloured, and on the r. and 
1. of this are coloured panels of 
peacocks, also in relief. This is 
the only colouring about the build- 
ing, the rest of the exterior being 
of unpainted keyaki wood. The 
sides and the back are decorated 
with eight splendid panels, each 9 ft. 
by 4 ft., representating groups of the 
Five Hundred Rakan in low relief, 
with an immense variety of incident 



Temple of Narita, Sakura Sogoro. 



145 



and portraiture. They were carved 
by Matsumoto Bydsan. On the 
huge doors that close the sliding 
windows of this part of the build- 
ing, are beautiful carvings of the 
Twenty-four Paragons of Filial 
Piety, each panel (2 J ft. by 2 ft.) 
containing two subjects by Shima- 
mura Shumbyd. The dragon and 
angels on the ceiling, and the bold 
sketches of the Sixteen Eakan 
behind the main altar are by Kano 
Kazunobu, a painter of the nine- 
teenth century. 

In the Naijin, or Holy of Holies, 
is the sacred black image of Fudo 
(often called Dainichi, with whom 
Fud5 is often identified), scarcely 
visible in the dim light. Among 
the rockery behind are thirty-six 
small bronze statues ; in the centre 
at the top is Fudd in a cave, and 
higher up on the r. the saint En- 
no-Shokaku. The grotesque figures 
popularly called Daira-botchi in the 
gables, which bear the ends of the 
ridge-pole, are excellent expressions 
of the effort to support a heavy 
burden. Bound the building, under 
the architrave, are groups of fabulous 
animals. 

The three-storied Pagoda is a 
beautiful example of this architec- 
tural form, finely decorated and 
painted. The black groups on the 
four sides represent the Sixteen 
Bakan. The bell-tower opposite 
is also well worth a few minutes' 
attention. Close by on the r. is a 
handsome library containing a 
highly decorated revolving octago- 
nal box borne on the shoulders of 
parti- coloured demons. Note the 
peculiar coffered ceiling painted 
with kaleidoscopic patterns. In 
the Ex-voto Hall to the 1. of the 
Library, are pictures of Fudd 
helping suppliants; also a huge 
rosary, the string of which is a cable 
made of human hair, two large 
anchors thickly encrusted with bar- 
nacles, and various other offerings. 

A flight of steps leads up to 
another level where stands a large 
red shrine called the Kornyo-do, or 



Hall of Kesplendent Light. The 
other ex-voto shed 1. contains a 
large variety of interesting offer- 
ings ; charms and pictures of all 
kinds may be purchased. 

At Kdzu-mura, 15 cho W. of 
Narita three unpretentious stones 
mark the resting-place of the mar- 
tyred peasant, Sakura Sogoro, his 
wife and children. A handsome 
shrine dedicated to Sogoro's memo- 
ry, which stood here, was destroyed 
by fire in 1910. 

In the year 1644 a band of village elders, 
headed by one Sogoro, proceeded to Yedo 
to protest against the tyranny of the lord 
of Sakura. Even to protest was in those 
days a capital offence, acquiescence in all 
the mandates of his superiors being an 
inferior's sole and sufficient duty. Not 
Sogoro only was put to death ; his wife 
was crucified with him and their four 
children decapitated before their eyes. 
One, a child of seven, was butchered as he 
was eating the sweetmeats thrown to him 
by the compassionate spectators. This 
pathetic story is graphically told in 
Mitf ord's Tales of Old Japan. 

The Shinto Temple of Kadori, 
famous but not specially interest- 
ing, stands to the N.E. of Narita, 1 
hr. by train to Sawara, and 32 cho 
thence by jinrikisha. Numerous 
inns crowd the entrance to the 
splendid grove of trees in which the 
temple stands. 

This temple is dedicated to Futsu-nushi 
or Iwa-nushi, a deified warrior of the 
mythical period, whose symbol is a sword. 
The date of its foundation is unknown, 
but may be placed a good deal earlier 
than the 5th century. The present 
building was erected at the beginning of 
the 17th century, and restored in A.D. 
1700. It is said that, as late as the begin- 
ning of the 17 th century, the waters of 
the Tonegawa came right up to the base 
of the hill on which the temple stands, 
and that all the rice-fields between it 
and Tsunomiya, about 3 miles distant, 
have been reclaimed since that period. 



12. — Ascent of Tsuktjba-san. 

Tsukuba-san, a mountain 2,925 
ft. high, situated 40 miles to the 
N.N.E. of Tokyo, and forming even 



146 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



at that distance a striking feature 
of the landscape, is best reached by 
taking train at Ueno station for 
Tsuchi-ura {Inn, Matsu-ya), on the 
East Coast Railway (see Route 22), 
whence 4 ri by jinrildsha via Hojo 
to the foot of the mountain. Hence 
to the Till, of Tsukuba is 1 hr. walk 
uphill. It should be agreed upon 
beforehand with the jinrikisha-men 
that they must shoulder the luggage 
and act as guides as far as the inn. 

The name Tsukuba is said to be com- 
posed of two Chinese words meaning 
•'built bank;" and the legend is that 
Izanagi and Izanami constructed the 
mountain as a bulwark against the waves 
of the Pacific Ocean, which they had 
forced to retire to the other side of 
Kashima, formerly an island in the sea. 
This tradition accords with the fact, 
verified by geologists, that the E. shores 
of Japan have been gradually rising 
during many centuries past. 

Saturnalia used formerly to be held 
here. The following is a translation of 
an extremely ancient ode : — 

Where many an eagle builds her nest, 
On Tsukuba's mountain-crest, 
There the men and maids foregather, 
And this the song they sing together : 
" I your mistress mean to woo ! 
You may take and love mine too ! 
For the gods that here do throne 
Ne'er this ancient use disown : 
So shut your eyes but for to-day, 
And find no fault howe'er we play !" 

The cleanly little vill. of Tsuku- 
ba {Inn, Edo-ya) lies about half- 
way up the mountain. Most of 
the houses, command a fine view of 
the plain of Tokyo, stretching away 
towards Fuji. The ascent begins 
immediately after leaving the vill., 
the way passing through the 
grounds of a temple. From this 
point to the summit of the W. 
peak, called Nantai-zan (Male 
Mountain), the distance is about 
50 cho. This is the usual ascent, 
being less steep than the path up 
the E. and lower peak, Nyotai-mn 
(Female Mountain). The summit 
is dotted with shrines, of which the 
largest is sacred to Izanagi. Simi- 
larly, the temple on Nyotai-zan is 
dedicated to his consort Izanami. 
There is a magnificent view of the | 



Tokyd plain, Fuji, Asama-yama, 
and the Nikko range. Pines and 
cryptomerias cover the mountain, 
and the rocks about the summits 
are awkward to scramble over. From 
the W. to the E. peak is an interval 
of about J m. The descent from 
the latter is 70 cho. It passes over 
and between huge rocks, to which 
fanciful names have been given, 
from their supposed resemblance to 
portions of the human body. The 
ascent and descent occupy about 
4 hrs. 



ROUTE 6. 



The Hakone District: Miyano- 
shita, Hakone. 

1. general information. 2. miya- 
noshita and neighbourhood. 
3. hakone and neighbourhood. 

1. — General Information. 

This route is specially recom- 
mended, as uniting charm of 
scenery, accessibility, and an un- 
usual degree of comfort. All 
tourists arriving at Yokohama are 
advised to devote a week to it, and 
if they have not so much time at 
their disposal, then to devote two 
or three days to a portion of it. 
Even should they be disinclined 
for walking and sightseeing, they 
will find no place more pleasant 
for idling in at all seasons than 
Miyanoshita. It offers another ad- 
vantage, as a convenient starting- 
point for the ascent of Fuji. The 
whole district abounds with hot 
springs. 

The word Hakone, it should be observed, 
though employed by us, as by all Euro- 
peans to denote the village called by the 
Japanese Hakone-no-sJiuku, Hakone-no-eki, 
or Hakone-machi, is properly the general 




FOR MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 



Way to Miyanoshita. 



147 



name of the entire mountainous district 
lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu, 
between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga. 
For this reason the Japanese talk of 
Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being "in 
Hakone." The original name of Hakone 
Lake (now, however, used only in poetry) 
is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, the Sea of Keeds. 
(Compare the name of Ashi-noyu, "the 
Hot Water of the Reeds," which is really 
deserved, as these springs issue from a 
reedy marsh.) The lake measures, in 
round numbers, 1£ ri long, 4£ ri round, 
and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its 
deepest part. 

The following are the heights of the 
chief villages and mountains mentioned 
in this route : — 

Ashinoyu 2,870 feet. 

Futago-yama 3,575 ,, 

Gora 2,300 „ 

Hakone 2,378 „ 

Kamiyama 4,716 ,, 

Kintoki-zan 3,995 ,, 

Koma-ga-take 4,452 feet. 

Kowaki-dani (Kojigoku) 2,100 ,, 

Miyanoshita 1,377 ,, 

Myojin-ga-take 3,821 „ 

Myojo-ga-take 3,027 ,, 

Ojigoku 3,478 „ 

Otome-toge 3,276 „ 

Saijoji (Doryo-san) 1,216 „ 

Ten Province Pass 3,216 „ 

Yu-no-hana-zawa 3,100 „ 



2. — Miyanoshita and Neighbor- 
hood. 

Miyanoshita is easily reached 
from Yokohama by the Tokaido 
Railway to Kozu station, 1J hr. ; 
thence by electric tram to Yumoto, 
1 hr. ; thence by jinrikisha (at least 
two men necessary) or on foot, for 
1J ri up the valley of the Hayakawa 
to Miyanoshita, nearly 1 hr. by 
jinrikisha, 1J- hr. on foot, — say 4J 
hrs. for the whole journey, includ- 
ing stoppages. The total distance 
from Kozu to Yumoto is 10 miles, 
and from Yumoto to Miyanoshita, 
4 miles. 

At Kozu ( Inn, Kozu-kwan), it is 
worth devoting a few minutes to 
walking out on the beach to look at 
the beautiful view of Odawara Bay, 
with to the r. the peninsula of Izu 
on whose coast Atami is situated, 
ahead the volcano of Oshima (Vries 
Island), and to the 1. the islet of 
Enoshima. From the station, one 



has a striking view of Fuji. The 
road from Kozu to Yumoto — the old 
Tokaido — leads past (about 1 m.) 
the Shoto-en, an inn situated on the 
beach, with sea bathing and Euro- 
pean conveniences. 

A little further on, the broad 
Salcawa-gawa is crossed, where a 
curious method often resorted to 
for the protection of the embank- 
ments of capricious rivers may be 
observed. Large open crates made 
of split bamboos are filled with 
stones, and set in rows along the 
bank. Their appearance has gain- 
ed for them the name of ja-kago, 
literally, " serpent-baskets." The 
half-way station on the tram line is 

Odawara {Inn, Koise-ya). This 
is a town celebrated in Japanese 
history as the scene of many bloody 
conflicts in feudal times. 

Odawara belonged successively to vari- 
ous families of Daimyos, who dwelt in the 
castle, which was not finally dismantled 
till the time of the late revolution. The 
most celebrated of these families were 
the Hojo, a younger branch of the family 
of " Regents," who ruled over Japan 
during the 13th century and the first 
three decades of the 14th. This younger 
branch, selecting Odawara as their seat 
in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for 
five generations, namely, till 1590, when 
they were defeated and the power of their 
house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide- 
yoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama. 
Retiring to their castle, the various com- 
manding officers on the Hojo side could 
come to no agreement, as time wore on, 
as to whether it were better to await the 
onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth 
themselves and offer battle. While they 
were still discussing this question in ail 
its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden 
attack and captured the castle by a coup 
de main. Hence the proverbial saying, 
Odawara hyogi, that is, " the Odawara 
Conference," which means endless talk 
resulting in nothing. 

The tram station stands opposite 
the ruined outer walls of the Castle ; 
(no admittance to the picturesquely 
pine-clad grounds) where an Im- 
perial palace was erected in 1900. 
The middle and innermost walls, 
which are in excellent preservation, 
may be seen by walking towards 
Komine, a hillock J- hr. distant, — 



148 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



whole neighbourhood fragrant in 
February and early March with 
masses of plum-blossom. 

On leaving Odawara, the road 
enters the valley of the Hayakawa 
near the mouth of that stream, 
which takes its origin in Lake 
Hakone. The two round summits 
seen almost constantly ahead are 
Futago-yama, or the Twin Moun- 
tains. The avenue to the r. of the 
tram-road marks the Tokaidd. Near 

Yumoto (10 min. out of the 
vill.), is a cascade known as Tama- 
dare no taki. A small fee is charged 
for admittance. Yumoto boasts hot 
springs and a large inn, called 
Fukuzumi. Foreigners obliged to 
break the journey are, however, 
advised to push on £ m. further to 
the vill. of 

Tonosawa (Inns, Tama-no-yu, 
Suzuki), with good hot springs. 
The mosaic wood- work which from 
Yumoto onwards fills such a promi- 
nent place in the shops, is the 
speciality for which the Hakone 
district is noted. The hamlet more 
than half-way up from Yumoto to 
Miyanoshita is called Ohiradai. 

Miyanoshita (Hotel, *Fuji-ya, 
Europ. style) is a pleasant resort 
for many reasons, — the purity of 
the air, the excellence of the hotel 
accommodation, the numerous pret- 
ty walks both short and long, the 
plentiful supply of " chairs " and 
of specially large and comfortable 
kagos for those who prefer being 
carried, and the delicious hot baths, 
which, containing but faint traces 
of salt and soda, may be used with- 
out medical advice. The upper 
portion of the village is called Soko- 
kura. The principal short walks 
from Miyanoshita are : — 

1. To Kiga (distance, 9 cho, say 
J- hr.) : — no climbing, tame fish to 
feed with cakes at the favourite 
" Gold-fish Tea-house." The ravine 
spanned by a bridge soon after 
starting is called Jakoisu-gawa, lit. 
" Stream of the Serpent's Bones," 
from some white stones popularly 
believed to be the bones of dead 



serpents. A little way up is a 
waterfall, and the hot water which 
supplies the village can be seen 
issuing from the rocks in several 
places. Equally flat and pleasant 
road 8 cho further up the valley of 
the Hayakawa to Miyagino, a vill. 
built on both sides of the stream. 

2. To Dogashima, a hamlet 
with hot springs and a pretty 
cascade, some few hundred yards 
below Miyanoshita, down a steep 
ravine. 

3. Climb half-way up Sengen- 
yama, the wooded hill immediate- 
ly at the back of the Japanese wing 
of the Fujiya Hotel. It is a steep 
pull of 25 or 30 min. to the tea- 
shed, some 700 ft. above the village, 
whence view of upper half of Fuji. 

[This walk may be continued up- 
wards along the ridge and then 
plunging down r. into the val- 
ley to a cascade called Ghi-suji- 
ga-taki, close to KowaM-dani, 
2 hrs. (guide needed).] 

Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.), 
are: — 

4. To Kiga and Miyagino, as in 
No. 1 ; then cross the river and 
turn sharp to the r., walking back 
on the other side, via the rustic 
Race-course, and re-crossing to 
the Miyanoshita side at Doga- 
shima. This is the most beautiful 
of all the walks near Miyanoshita. 

5. Up to Kowaki-dani, also 
called Kojigoku (Kaikatei Hotel, 
Europ. style; Mikawaya Hotel, 
semi-Europ.), with hot mineral 
springs stronger than those at 
Miyanoshita, then down past the 
hamlet of Ninotaira to Miyagino, 
whence back by the main road via 
Kiga. The 28 cho (nearly 2 m. 
but there are many short-cuts) from 
Miyanoshita to Kowaki-dani is done 
on foot or in jinrikishas. 

The meaning of the name Kojigoku is 
"Small Hell." It was bestowed on the 
place in allusion to some small sulphur 
springs, which supply the hotel baths. 
In 1877, on the occasion of a visit of the 
Emperor, the name of Kojigoku was 



Walks at Miyanoshita. 



149 



officially altered to Kowaki-dani , which 
means the " Valley of the Lesser Boiling." 

This walk may be abridged by 
turning to the r. before reaching 
Kowaki-dani, almost all the paths 
r. leading down ultimately to the 
Kiga road. 

6. To the hot spring of Gora, 
through the wood leading to O- 
jigoku; returning home by the 
zigzag road over the moor to 
Miyagino ; under 2 hours. 

Good half-day excursions are to : — 

7. Ojigoku, or__Big Hell, alter- 
natively named Ovcaki-dani, i.e., 
the "Valley of the Greater Boiling," 
— distance, a little under 2 ri to the 
top of the gorge. Neither name is 
a misnomer. The whole gorge 
reeks with sulphurous fumes, vege- 
tation decreases as one ascends 
higher, and the aspect of the scene 
becomes weird and desolate. It is 
advisable to keep to the path and 
tread carefully after the guide, as 
more lives than one have been 
sacrificed by a false step on the 
treacherous crust. The view from 
the top differs as widely in its 
charms from the scene of desolation 
just traversed as can well be im- 
agined. In the centre, Fuji towers 
up in perfect beauty. To the ex- 
treme r. is tooth-shaped Kintold- 
zan, then the Otome-toge, the 
Nagao-toge, and to the 1. the more 
imposing slopes of Ashitaka. The 
summit of Kamiyama, which rises 
up immediately behind the sulphur 
springs, is distinguished by its 
graceful outline and by the dense 
forest covering its sides. 

8. Up Myojo-ga-take, or Mukb- 
yama, the big grassy hill immedi- 
ately opposite Miyanoshita, on the 
1. side of the stream. It is a walk 
of 1J hr. to the top, the path at 
first leading down through the vill. 
of Dogashima, there crossing the 
stream, and then swerving consider- 
ably to the r., before turning 1. 
again along the crest of the hill. 
The view from the summit is ex- 
tensive. In the centre is Fuji, the 
depression immediately in front of 



which is the Otome-toge; then to 
the r. Kintoki and Myojin-ga- 
take, behind which rise Oyama and 
Tanzawa ; in the plain the Sakawa- 
gawa, and behind it the low range 
of Sogayama. The town of Odawara 
can be seen by walking back a few 
yards; then the sea with Oshima, 
and to the r. the low slope of 
Ishikake-yama ; then Futago-yama, 
Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama, and Dai- 
ga-take. The blear spot on Kami- 
yama is the solfatara of So-un 
Jigoku. Still further to the r., in 
the blue distance, is Ashitaka- 
yama. The best time to view this 
scene is at sunrise or at sunset. 
The coolie should therefore carry a 
lantern, either for the first or for 
the last portion of the walk. The 
descent via Miyagino and Kiga is 
steeper in parts even than the 
ascent. This expedition is not 
recommended to people with weak 
heads or during the heat of summer. 
The whole will take 3 J hrs., in elud- 
ing a short rest at the summit. 

9. To the Dai, or Terrace, on 
the top of the hill leading to Saijoji 
(see No. 14), 1J hr. climb for sake 
of splendid view. Thence 1. along 
the ridge, and down the next de- 
pression (Yagura-zawa-tdge) also to 
the 1., and so home, — 4 or 5 hrs. 

The following are longer excur- 
sions, occupying the greater part 
of a day. No. 10 can be done in 
jinrikisha but "chair" generally 
preferred. 

10. To Ashinoyu and Hakone. 

Miyanoshita to : — Ri Cho M. 

Kowaki-dani 28 2 

Ashinoyu 1 5 2| 

Moto Hakone 1 — 2 J 

Hakone vill 14 1 

Total 3 11 8 



But numerous short cuts will 
save pedestrians nearly 1J mile. 
Ashinoyu (Inns, Matsuzaka-ya, 
Europ. food and beds ; Kinokuni-ya) 
is famous for its sulphur springs, 
whose efficacy in the treatment of 



150 



Route &—Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



skin diseases and rheumatism at- 
tracts many Japanese patients and 
not a few foreigners, despite the 
bare uninviting appearance of the 
locality. Ashinoyu is very cool in 
summer, owing to its height, but 
is frequently enveloped in mist and 
commands no view, as it lies in a 
marshy depression, though on the 
top of a hill. 

[At the end of the vill. of Ashino- 
yu a path 1. leads up Futago- 
yama, (lit. " twin mountain") 
a favourite designation for 
such double peaks, 25 min. 
to the first summit of the 
nearer peak ( Uwa-Futago), 
which presents a garden-like 
appearance, and J- hr. more to 
the second summit, passing 
through an ancient crater now 
thickly carpeted with moss and 
overgrown with bushes and 
trees. The view from this 
second summit is the finer, 
including Lake Hakone and 
many of the points enumerated 
on page 151 under Kamiyama. 
It is possible to reach the 
further peak of Futago-yama 
(Skita-Futago) ; but the summit 
is covered with vegetation that 
shuts out all view. 

On a hill 8 cho (say \ hr.) 
beyond Ashinoyu, is Yu-no- 
hana-zawa, & bathing establish- 
ment with very strong sulphur 
baths. It commands a view, 
including Odawara Bay and 
Oyama shaped like an obtuse 
triangle.] 

After leaving Ashinoyu, the path 
is at first level, and then descends 
most of the way to Hakone. The 
first object of interest passed is, 1., 
a set of three small stone monu- 
ments dedicated to the Soga Breth- 
ren and to Tora Gozen (see p. 84). 
A few yards further on, to the r. 
and half-hidden among the grass 
and bushes, is a block of andesite 
rock well- worth pausing a moment 
to inspect, as it is covered with 



Buddhist images carved in relief. 
These images are known as the 
Ni-ju-go Bosatsu, that is, the 
" Twenty-five Bosatsu " (see p. 44). 
The carving apparently dates only 
from A.D. 1293, though attributed 
to Kobo Daishi. 

Two or three of the images at the top 
are unfinished. According to a legend 
still credited by the country-folk, Kobo 
Daishi had carved the other twenty-two 
during a single night ; but as day broke 
before the completion of his labours, the 
rest perforce remained incomplete. 

But the chief curiosity here- 
abouts is a colossal image of Jizd 
(Bokudo no Jizd) carved in relief on 
a block of andesite, and ranking 
among the triumphs of the Japa- 
nese chisel. Standing, as it does, a 
few yards above the road, it may 
easily be missed unless the coolies 
be instructed beforehand to point 
it out. Tradition has it that the 
great Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi, 
carved this image also in a single 
night. A festival in its honour 
is celebrated yearly on the 23rd 
August. 

The two meres {Shoni-ga-ike and 
Nazuna-ga-ike), r. and 1. on the way 
between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are 
the remains of ancient craters. 
Nazuna is crowded with a species 
of small fish called aka-hara. 

[Koma-ga-take (" Pony Peak") 
may be ascended by a path 
branching off some 300 yards 
from x^shinoyu on the Yu-no- 
hana-zawa road. Climbers from 
Hakone will find an old track 
starting from Shoni-ga-ike, lead- 
ing up to the r. and joining the 
newer path just mentioned. 
This mountain is rather less 
worth climbing than Kami- 
yama, as the plateau-like nature 
of the top makes it impossible 
to take in the whole view from 
any single spot. It has, how- 
ever, the advantage of affording 
the completest view of Lake 
Hakone. Time, 50 min., or say, 
21 hrs. from Miyanoshita. 



Excursions from Miyanoshita. 



151 



A boulder at the top of Koma-ga- 
take is the subject of a curious su- 
perstition. It is believed that the 
water contained in the hollows of 
this boulder never runs dry, and 
the peasants of the surrounding 
country make pilgrimages to it in 
seasons of drought, in order to ob- 
tain rain by scattering the drops to 
the four winds. But if any of the 
water be taken down the mountain, 
the result is a typhoon.] 

The first hamlet reached on get- 
ting to the lake is Moto-Hakone, 
where the Matsuzaka-ya Inn (semi- 
Enrop.), pleasantly situated on the 
border of the lake, commands the 
best view of Fuji in this neigh- 
bourhood. Hence along an im- 
pressive avenue of cryptomerias to 
Hakone. 

Instead of returning to Miyano- 
shita by the way one has come, it 
will be found pleasant in warm 
weather to take a boat from Hako- 
ne [ov from Moto-Hakone, which 
shortens the expedition by one 
mile) to the far-end of the lake, — 
Umi-jiri, lit. " sea-end," as it is 
termed. Alighting there, we go 
past the little bathing village of 
Ubago, up the spur separating the 
lake from Ojigoku, and return to 
Miyanoshita by the Ojigoku w r ay, 
as in Walk No. 7. Those who do the 
expedition, not on foot, but in 
chairs, can take these conveyances 
with them in the boat, and can be 
carried most of the way home from 
Umijiri. Jinrikishas not practi- 
cable. It is only necessary to walk 
over the dangerous portion of the 
Ojigoku gorge. Instead of taking a 
boat, some may prefer to follow the 
path along the edge of the lake. 
The distances, if this extension be 
adopted, are as follows : — 

Miyanoshita to : — Pd Chb M. 

Hakone 3 11 8 

Umijiri 1 18 3| 

Ubago 12 J 

Ojigoku 8 | 

Miyanoshita 1 34 4* 

Total 7 11 17| 



11, Up Kamiyama, the central 
and highest peak of the Hakone 
range, the way lying first among 
long grass, and then through scrub. 
It is best _to ascend from a point 
on the Ojigoku road past the 
vill. of Ninotaira, and to descend 
via Yu-no-hana-zawa, whence down 
by a zigzag path passing through 
XowakL-dani. The ascent will take 
2J hrs., the whole expedition, say, 5 
hrs. Its roughness makes it unsuit- 
able for ladies. An old crater is 
traversed before reaching the sum- 
mit, which commands a grander 
panorama than any other in this 
district. Fuji towers to the N.W., 
flanked by the snowy summits of 
the Kdshu mountains to the r. and 
the Shinshu mountains to the 1. 
Further 1. is Ashitaka-yama, then 
the blue Gulf of Suruga with its 
line of surf, and the narrow pine- 
clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsu- 
bara shutting in Shimizu Bay. 
Next comes the peninsula of Izu 
with the Amagi-san range, Hatsu- 
shima near Atami, smoking Yries 
Island, and the smaller islands of 
Toshima, Niijima, etc., forming with 
it and with more distant Hachijo 
the "Seven Isles of Izu;" Sagami 
Bay, with the tow r n of Odawara, 
the river Sakaw T a, Enoshima, and 
the promontory of Misaki, with the 
further promontory of Sunosaki 
in Boshu behind; the plain that 
stretches towards Fujisawa, Oyama, 
and the Tanzawa range. All the 
summits of the Hakone range are 
grouped in the nearer distance at 
the spectator's feet. Between him 
and Fuji is a ridge, the three lowest 
points of which are the Otome- 
toge, Nagao-toge, and Fukara-toge. 
The grassy summit on the other 
(southern) side is Koma-ga-take 
with Futago-yama behind, while 
Taiko-yama and Ishikake-yama 
stretch behind that again like a 
long wall. Miyanoshita, too, is 
visible on this side. 

Taiko-yama, or Taiko-michi, takes its 
name from a tradition to the effect that 
the Taiko Hideyoshi led his troops along 



152 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 



it when going to fight the battle of 
Ishikake-yama. The way was shown him 
by a hunter, whom he thereupon killed, 
in order to make sure that the enemy 
should not profit by the poor fellow's 
local knowledge. 

12. Up most of the way to Ashi- 
noyu; thence turning sharp 1. for 
30 chb down a steep and stony path, 
which passes through the vill. of 
Hata on the old Tbkaidb. The first 
portion of the descent is called Taki- 
mka, or Cascade Hill, on account of 
a cascade seen to the r. about two- 
thirds of the way down. The 
return to Miyanoshita is made via 
Yumoto, Tonosawa, and Ohiradai, 
~ total distance, about 5 ri. 

13. To the top of the Otome- 
toge, or " Maiden's Pass," distant 3 
ri (7J m.), whence can be gained the 
nearest and most complete view of 
Fuji and of the plain at its base. 
The path is not steep, excepting 
11 chb of stiff: climbing at the end. 
It is possible, however, to ride or to 
be carried the whole way in a chair. 
The path leads through Miyagino, 
crosses the Hayakawa, and contin- 
ues up the valley to the vill. of 
Sengoku. 

[From Sengoku, the ascent of 
tooth-shaped Kintoki-zan 
takes 1 hr., the climb being 
steep for a portion of the way. 
One may also reach it from the 
Otome-toge, but that is much 
longer. The summit, which is 
marked by several tiny shrines 
and is clear of trees, affords a 
grand view. The people of the 
surrounding country-side as- 
cend Kintoki-zan annually on 
the 17th day of the 3rd moon, 
old style, on which day the fes- 
tival of I-no-hana ("the boar's 
snout ") is held on the summit. 
The name of the mountain is 
derived from that of Kintoki, 
a mighty hunter of legendary 
fame.] 

The climb up the Otome-toge 
commences shortly after leaving 
Sengoku. The labour it entails is 



amply repaid by the view from the 
gap forming the pass. Persons 
with sufficient time will do well to 
climb up the hill to the r., from 
whose top are visible the snow-clad 
peaks of the mountains of Koshu 
and Shinshu. (The way back may 
be varied by diverging r. at the vill. 
of Sengoku, across the stream, to the 
thickly-wooded hill of Dai-ga-take, 
whence past the hot springs of Yuba, 
and so home.) To travel out to 
Miyanoshita via the Otome-toge is a 
pleasant alternative route for those 
who intend visiting this district a 
second time. Instead of alighting 
at Kozu, one continues in the train 
as far as Gotemba station, aituated 
in the plain at Fuji's base. From 
Gotemba it is 2 J ri to the top of 
the pass, but the first portion of 
the way may be done in jinrikisha. 
Gotemba is also the nearest station 
for travellers coming up the Tokai- 
do Eailway from Kobe, bound for 
Miyanoshita. But if they have 
much luggage or object to walking, 
they should go on to Kozu, whence 
the facilities for proceeding to 
Miyanoshita are greater. 

14. To the Buddhist temple of 
Saijoji, sometimes called Dbryb- 
san, distant 3 ri. Though placed 
last, this long expedition is perhaps 
the most delightful of all ; for it 
alone includes architectural beauties 
as well as beauties of nature. The 
path, after passing through Kiga 
and Miyagino and crossing the 
Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy 
plateau near the summit of Mybjiri- 
ga-take, — not to be confounded with 
the Myojo-ga-take of Walk of No. 8. 
(Though kagos go this way, horses 
cannot. Eiders therefore have to 
go round via Yagura-mwa, which 
increases the distance by about a 
couple of miles.) Tell the guide 
to lead to the spot called the Dai, 
or " Terrace," J hr. out of the way 
to the 1., whence may best be seen 
the superb view : — on the one 
hand, the sea, with Vries Island, 
the peninsula of Boshu, and the 
nearer peninsula of Sagami, the 



Excursions from 3fiyanoshita. 



153 



plain of Sagami watered by the 
livers Banyu and _Sakawa, the 
mountain ranges of Oyama, Kura- 
kake, Tanzawa, Sobutsu, Yagura- 
dake, and many of the mountains 
of Koshu ; on the other, the wooded 
heights beyond the Hakone pass 
which dwarf the nearer ridge of 
Takanosu; then turning towards 
the r., double-crested Futago-yama, 
Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama. and the 
long ridge to the W. of Hakone 
which terminates in KintokL-zan; 
and above and beyond all, the 
gigantic cone of Fuji. From this 
point it is a descent, Saijoji being 
even lower down on the far side of 
the mountain than Miyanoshita is 
on the near. Before reaching it, 
the open moorland of the hillside 
is exchanged for a fine grove of 
pines and cryptomerias, with an 
undergrowth of flowering shrubs, 
— deutzia, azalea, pyrus japonica, 
aucuba, etc., according to the 
season. 

The temple of Saijoji, which belongs 
to the Soto sect of Buddhists, was founded 
by a hermit named Ryo-an, who died A.D. 
1401 ; but it owes its special reputation 
for sanctity to his successor Doryo, who 
was held to be one of the numerous 
incarnations of Kwannon, the Goddess of 
Mercy. 

To Doryo' s memory is dedicated 
the finest of all the shrines which 
collectively constitute Saijoji. It 
is called Myokwaku-do, and stands 
at the top of a flight of steps to the 
1. The links of the chain which 
divides the staircase into two parts 
are often bound with scraps of 
paper, on which pilgrims have 
written short prayers. The fan of 
feathers, which forms so striking a 
feature of the ornamentation, was 
Doryo's crest. The winged figures 
with large noses represent goblins 
(tengu) y who dwell in the moun- 
tains. Do not fail to notice the 
elaborate wood-carvings. Most of 
the large upright stones of irregular 
shape inscribed with characters in 
red or gold, which are scattered 
about the grounds, are memorials 



of persons who have at various 
times contributed towards the 
repairs of the temple. So is the 
hideous grey railing, by which 
more recent piety has succeeded 
in marring the perfect taste and 
beauty of the scene. It is generally 
most convenient to lunch at Saijoji 
alfresco in one of the retired por- 
tions of the temple grounds. There 
are also several tea-sheds some way 
down the avenue beyond the temple. 
Instead of returning to Miyano- 
shita the way one came, it is 
better to arrange at the hotel, 
before starting, to have jinrikishas 
in waiting at the end of the stately 
avenue of cryptomerias leading 
from the temple down for 28 cho 
to the vill. of Sekimoto (tea-house, 
Saka-ya). After the fatigues of the 
walk, one can thence bowl along 
merrily through the pleasant valley 
of the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Oda- 
wara, whence by tram to Tonosawa, 
and by jinrikisha or on foot up 
to Miyanoshita. The total distance 
of the trip, as thus modified, is 10 
ri 25 cho (26 miles) ; but the 3 ri in 
jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Oda- 
wara, and the possibility of doing 
all the remainder of the way up to 
Miyanoshita by jinrikisha, diminish 
the exertion. Allow 9 hrs. for the 
whole. — It is also possible to take 
Saijoji on the way back from 
Miyanoshita to Yokohama, by join- 
ing the railway at Matsuda, the 
nearest station to the temple. The 
distance from the end of the avenue 
just mentioned, is under 2 ri. From 
6 to 7 hrs. should be allowed for the 
whole expedition. 



3. — Hakone and Neighbourhood. 

Hakone is most quickly reached 
from Yokohama by the Tokaido 
Kailway as far as Kozu, thence by 
tram to Yumoto, and on foot or in 
kago along the old Tokaido up the 
Hakone pass via Hata, the entire 
journey taking about 6 hrs. from 
Yokohama. The way up the Hako- 



154 



Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Bakone. 



ne pass is picturesque, notwith- 
standing recent deforestation ; but 
the road is extremely stony. Many 
residents prefer to tray el via Miya- 
noshita, where they spend the night, 
and then push on next morning by 
Walk No. 10. 

The respective merits of Hakone 
and Miyanoshita may be summed 
up as follows. Miyanoshita has 
the advantage of hot springs, 
a drier air, easier access, and a 
first-class hotel. Hakone is cooler, 
being just 1,000 ft. higher, and 
has a picturesque lake where one 
may fish (permit necessary), bathe, 
boat, and go on water picnics. 
The view of Fuji too, and the 
reflection of Fuji in the lake are 
great attractions. In winter the 
advantage is altogether on Miyano- 
shita' s side ; no one thinks of 
staying at Hakone during that 
season. The Hakone Hotel also 
called Hafu-ya (semi-Europ.) stands 
on the lake-side. But as nearly 
every house in the village is to let 
during the summer season, the 
plan usually followed by families 
from Yokohama and the China 
ports is to hire a separate residence 
by the month, bring their own 
servants with them, and set up 
housekeeping. European furniture 
of a rough kind is generally obtain- 
able, as also provisions during the 
summer season. 

Some of the most enjoyable 
expeditions from Hakone are the 
same as those already described 
from Miyanoshita, — for instance, 
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu, up 
Futago-yama, etc. The following 
may also be recommended :— 

1. The Temple of Gongen, 1 \ m. 
The way leads along an avenue of 
fine cryptomerias A flight of steps 
will be seen r., near which formerly 
stood the old Barrier (Hakone no 
seki) and guard-house, where all 
travellers over the Tokaido were 
challenged and required to show 
their passports. The barrier - was 
removed in 1871, but part of the 
stone- work still remains. 



Kaempfer, who passed this way on the 
ilth March, 1691, writes of this guard- 
house as follows: — "We came to the 
Imperial guard at the end of the village, 
where all the Japanese came out of their 
Norimons and Cangos, and those on horse- 
back alighted from their horses, present- 
ing themselves very respectfully and 
bareheaded, to be search'd, which how- 
ever was done but slightly. If there be 
any the least suspicion of a woman, 
disguis'd in man's cloaths, they must be 
more narrowly search'd, with this differ- 
ence however, that in this case, they are 
examin'd by women. Private persons 
going up to Jedo, must show their Pass- 
ports at this place, otherwise they are 
kept under arrest for three days, before 
they are permitted to pursue their 
journey." 

Following along the avenue, we 
soon come 1. to an Imperial Sum- 
mer Palace, not accessible to the 
public. The next point in the road 
is the Matsuzaka-ya inn (Europ. food), 
commanding the best view of Fuji 
to be had anywhere on the shores 
of the lake. A little further on, 
we pass under a stone torii, and 
enter the hamlet of Moto-Hakone. 
We then turn slightly to the 1., 
passing under a red torii, by the 
side of which stands a wooden shed 
containing two iron rice-boilers 
said to have been used by Yoritomo 
on his hunting expeditions. The 
road here skirts the lake, soon 
bringing us to a charming vista as 
we ascend to the foot of the temple 
steps. On the L, just before pass- 
ing through the torii, stands the 
custodian's house, where Yoritomo's 
sword and other relics are preserved. 
Also on the 1., half-way up, is a 
shrine dedicated to the Soga Breth- 
ren. The main temple is a pictur- 
esque relic of mouldering antiquity. 
The annual festival is celebrated on 
the 1st August. 

2. Walk to the End of the Lake, 
5 m. along the E. shore to Umijiri, 
as the N. end is called. 

3. Along the Sukumo-gawa.- 
This is a picturesque, but rather 
rough, walk. The stream has to be 
perpetually crossed and re- crossed, 
and wading is sometimes unavoid- 
able. The path finally leads out 



Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu. 



155 



near the vill. of Hata, "whence home. 
At the beginning of the valley, a 
path to the r. leads to Yoshihama 
on the coast. 

4. Walks in the direction of 
Atami. — Several walks "with fine 
views, can be taken in the direction 
of Atami, notably one up the slope 
of Okoma-yama and over Kazakoshi- 
yaina, to the highest point of the 
Tokaido, vrhere, on a little plateau, 
a post marks the boundary between 
the provinces of Sagami and Izu, 
and back to Hakone by the 
Tokaidd: — distance about 3 J m. 
But of all walks in this direction 
the most delightful is that to the 
Ten Province Pass (see p. 156). — 
A pleasant way to Odawara is 
afforded by walking towards this 
Pass for 1J ri to a milestone, 
whence down 1. for another 1J ri to 
the spa of Yugaicara (see p. 157). 

5. The Subterranean Water- 
course and the Fukara-toge. — 
The Fukara Pass (a very low one) 
is the most southerly of three that 
lead from the end of Lake Hakone 
to Fuji, the other two being the 
Nagao-toge and the Otome-toge. 
The first stage on the way to all 
three from Hakone is by boat 
nearly to the end of the lake. Close 
to the spot on the shore where the 
way up the Fukara Pass begins, 
is a tunnel {suimon), through which 
a portion of the waters of the lake 
is carried to several villages on 
the other side of the mountain, 
serving to irrigate their rice-fields. 

This subterranean channel is said to be 
artificial, the local account being that it 
was pierced by two brothers, who bored 
through the mountain from opposite 
sides until they met in the middle. 

The walk up the pass takes only 
15 min. The exit of the tunnel 
is some way down the valley, say 2 
hrs. from the boat and back again. 

6. The Nagao-toge.— This lies 
1 ri 7 cho from the end of the lake. 
The way leads first across the 
Hayakawa, the lake's natural outlet ; 
then along a broad level cinder 



path to the foot of the pass, and 
finally by an easy climb of 12 J ehd 
to the top. The gap at the summit 
commands a complete view of Fuji 
from base to peak. 



ROUTE 7. 



The Peninsula of Iztj. 

1. atami and neighbourhood. 2. 
from atami round the peninsu- 
la to numazu. 3. to the hot 
springs of shuzenji and to 
shimoda. 4. prom yugashima to 

ATAMI. 

(Cf. map facing p. 147.) 
1. — Atami and Neighbourhood. 

Atarni (Higuchi Hotel, Europ. 
style; Fuji-ya, and many others) 
is a favourite winter resort of the 
Japanese, as it possesses hot springs 
and is protected by a high range of 
hills from the north-westerly winds 
which prevail at that season. The 
whole stretch of coast from Kozu on 
the Tokaido Railway to Atami par- 
takes more or less of the same 
advantage; and the soft air, the 
orange-groves, and the deep blue of 
Odawara Bay, combine to make of 
this district the Riviera of Japan. 

Atami is most easily reached 
from Yokohama by rail as far as 
Kozu, 1J hr., whence by tram to 
Odawara, J hr., and then by light 
railway for the rest of the way, 2J 
hrs., along the coast. Jinrikishas 
may also be availed of, but take 2 
hrs. longer. Note that at Odawara 
time and trouble are saved by con- 
tinuing on in the tram past the 
tramway station to the point where 
the light railway station stands. 



156 



Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu. 



Small, cheap steamers ply between 
Kozu and Atami in 3 hrs. 

Itinerary by Road. 

KOZU to:— Ri Cho M. 

Odawara 1 28 4| 

Hayakawa 10 f 

Nebukawa 1 20 3f 

Enoura 1 12 3£ 

Yoshihama 1 82 4J 

Izu-san 2 12 5| 

ATAMI 18 1J 

Total 9 24 23J 



The road is delightfully pictur- 
esque and representatively Japa- 
nese, leading first under an ancient 
avenue most of the way to Oda- 
wara, and thence up and down 
along the coast, with ever-changing 
views of sea and land and of Vries 
Island smoking in the distance. 
The little peninsula whose neck is 
crossed about half-way, is called 
Manazuru. 

Travellers approaching Atami 
from the Kyoto side may save time 
by changing trains at Mishima 
Junction for Daiba, and thence by 
basha to Karuizawa about 2 ri, or by 
jinrikisha all the way to Atami, 5 ri ; 
but pedestrians can gain at least 
1 ri by short-cuts. During most of 
the way up, a fine near view is 
obtained of Fuji, with to the r. 
Amagi-san and the lower ranges of 
the peninsula of Izu. 

A third way, much to be recom- 
mended to good walkers, is that 
from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to 
Hakone (see p. 149), and thence over 
the hills by the Ten Province 
Pass (Jikkoku-toge). The climb is 
for the most part easy enough, and 
the panorama from the summit, 
especially in early winter, some- 
thing never to be forgotten. The top 
of the ridge, which is marked by a 
stone known as the Ten Province 
Stone, looks down on the provinces 
of Izu, Suruga, Totomi, Koshu, 
Kotsuke, Musashi, Shimosa, Kazusa, 
Boshu, and Sagami. Bays, penin- 



sulas, islands, mountain ranges lie 
spread out in entrancing variety of 
form and colour, Fuji towering up 
magnificently above all the rest. 
The last 3 m. into Atami are a steep 
descent, passing the dilapidated 
temple of Higane-san, which has 
curious stone images of Emma-6 (p. 
45) and Shozuka-no-Baba (p. 47), and 
a stone praying- wheel dated 1880. 
The total distance from Miyano- 
shita to Atami by this way is 
between 6 and 7 ri; time, 7 hrs., 
including stoppages. 

The curiosity for which Atami 
is noted is its geyser (Oyu), in the 
middle of the town which breaks out 
once in every four hours. It orig- 
inally shot straight up into the 
air, but is now partially enclosed; 
and an inhalation house has 
been erected for patients suffering 
from affections of the throat 
and lungs, the salt, in which 
the steam of the geyser is rich, 
being beneficial in such cases. 
There are several other springs, 
mostly saline, recommended for 
rheumatism and other diseases. 
The chief productions of Atami are 
a delicate land of paper, called 
gampishi, literally, " wild-goose skin 
paper," gampishi-ori, which is a 
fabric made of this paper and used 
for clothing, and a wholesome 
sweetmeat called ame. 

The geyser has been known ever since 
the settlement of Eastern Japan at the 
dawn of trustworthy history. According 
to tradition it burst out suddenly, not 
in its present site, but in the sea, whence 
the name of Atami (for atsu-umi), " hot 
sea." In order to put a stop to the 
destruction of marine life, and also to 
secure for human use so valuable a heal- 
ing means, the Buddhist abbot Mangwan 
visited this then remote spot in the year 
749, and in answer to his prayers, the 
geyser was, amidst the crash of earth- 
quakes and other portents, removed 
higher up on to the shore, where it still 
exists. It was only about 1870 that the 
recommendation of a celebrated physi- 
cian made the place fashionable. At 
first it was resorted to chiefly in summer, 
but now winter is the favourite season. 
Invalids form a large proportion of 
the visitors. 



Walks at AtamL 



157 



The walks to be recommended 
at Atami are : — 

1. To the grove of Kinomiya, \ 
hr. distant from the Higuchi Hotel. 
At the far end of the grove are 
some of the finest camphor-trees 
(kusunoki) remaining in Japan. 

2. To TJomi, the hut visible 
high up on the cliff that shuts in 
Atami Bay to the S. It is a climb 
of some 20 min., with a good view. 

The name Uo-mi, lit. " fish-outlook," 
refers to the use to which this post of 
observation is put, an experienced man 
being constantly on watch there, who, 
when a school of fish enters the bay, 
blows a horn as a signal to the fishermen 
below. These at once launch off from 
the shore, and, forming their boats in 
a circle, draw in a large net which is 
kept constantly laid down, harpoon the 
fish, and pull them into the boat, — an 
exciting and bloody scene. This is the 
way in which the albacore (a delicate 
sort of tunny) is caught during the 
winter months. In spring, mackerel and 
various other fish are taken, and in 
summer large quantities of bonito. These 
last are, however, more often angled for 
than netted. 

3. To the Bai-en, or plum gar- 
den, — a level walk of about 1 mile. 
Blossoms from New Year to early 
February. 

4. To Izu-san (Inn, Sagami-ya), 
\ ri, a hamlet of inns, grouped on 
a cliff below the highway, where a 
very hot spring containing sulphur 
and alum, specially recommended 
for diseases of the brain and skin, 
gushes out. 

5. To Tosawa, J hr. climb half- 
way up Higane-san to a beautiful 
grove of trees. There one may turn 
to the r., and come back by way of 
the vill. of Izu-san. (This vill. is 
not below the highway, as are the 
hot springs of Izu-san, mentioned 
in No. 4). 

6. Past the Bai-en, and up to the 
top of the Tanna-toge, affording 
a magnificent view similar to that 
from the Ten Province Stone (p. 
156), —1^ hr. there, 1 hr. back. 

7. By boat to the fishing vill. of 
Ajiro, 1J hr., including a short 
stoppage at the sea-caves of Nishiki- 



ura. The walk back over the Taga- 
toge, 1J ri, affords a variety. 

8. Up to just below Higane- 
san, and down a steep narrow 
gorge r. to the neat little spa of 
Yugawara [Inns, Nakanishi Hotel, 
Fuji-ya) ; thence back via Mongaica 
on the tram line. 

The following are all day expedi- 
tions : — 

9. To the islet of Hatsushinia, 
noted for its jonquils (suiseri). 

10. By boat to Ito {Inns, Dank5- 
en, Masu-ya), 5 ri 17 cho by road, 
but shorter by water. 

The cluster of hamlets, of which Wada 
and Matsubara are the biggest, are col- 
lectively known as Ito, and noted for 
their hot mineral waters. The other 
hamlets of the group are Yukawa, Take- 
no-uchi, and Arai. 

[Ito may be reached from the 
Tokaido Eailway by taking the 
branch line from Mishima 
Junction to Ohito, whence 5 ri 
26 cho (14 m.) by road, practic- 
able for basha. Or by small 
coasting steamer from Kozu, 
daily, in about 5 hrs.] 

A day is required^ from ltd for 
the excursion to Omuro-zan, an 
extinct volcano resembling Fuji in 
shape, and therefore often called 
by the country-folk Fuji no Imbto, 
" Fuji's Younger Sister," or Seng en- 
yama — (Sengen is an alternative 
name of the goddess of Fuji). The 
crater is about 250 yds. in diameter, 
and some 80 ft. deep, the bottom 
being covered with scattered blocks 
of lava. To the E. of this volcano 
stands a smaller called Komuro-zan. 



2. — Feom Atami Round the 
Peninsula to Numazu. 

Itinerary. 

ATAMI to :— Ri Cho M. 

Ajiro 2 14 5| 

Ito 3 3 7J 

Yawatano 3 20 8f 

Naramoto 2 21 6fc. 



158 



Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu. 



Inatori 1 35 4f 

Kendaiji (approx.) 6 • — 14§ 

Matsnzaki „ 14 — 34 J- 

Tago 2 2 5 

Toi 4 35 12J- 

Heda 2 20 6% 

Mito (estimated) ... 7 — - 17 

Enoura 2 7 5J 

Ushibuse 31 2 

NUMAZU 1 — 2£ 

Total 54 8 132J- 



This excellent though arduous 
trip will take a good pedestrian 6 or 
7 days, the way leading up and 
down hills all along the beautiful 
seaboard. During _the first three 
days the volcano of Oshima and the 
smaller isles of Izu are constantly 
in sight. The latter portion north- 
ward up the west coast passes 
a succession of picturesque nooks, 
bays, and islets, with rocky caves 
and pinnacles. The most noted of 
these caves called Dogashima, lie 
near the vill. of Nishina, 20 min. 
walk from Matsuzaki, or 5 hrs. by 
the steamers of the Tdkyd-Wan Co. 
from either Shimizu or Numazu. 
The caves are said to have been the 
abode of cliff-dwellers, and are still 
used in summer as a refuge from 
the heat. Near by is a lagoon with a 
good beach. Toi and Heda possess 
hot springs. From Heda onwards 
the walk commands splendid 
views of Fuji, while at its close the 
lovely Bay of Enoura affords special- 
ly fine accommodation at the inns 
mentioned below, with sea bathing ; 
but the roads are very hilly and 
often in bad repair. The Numazu- 
Shimoda steamers may be availed of 
as a change, for instance, between 
Koura and Heda (6 hours); or by boat 
from Mito to Enoura where islands 
shut out the rough sea. This bay is 
visited from March to August by 
large quantities of tunny, and some 
of the wooded islets that dot the sea 
are topped by the curious look-outs 
of the fishermen (p. 157). Instead 
of following the coast road from 
Rendaiji (or Shimoda) to Matsuzaki, 



one can take basha via Kan5 to Mera, 
where a ferry crosses the pictur- 
esque little bay to Koura. The inns 
are as follows : — 

Ito Danko-en. 

Atagawa (near Tsuchiva 
Naramoto). lsucni y a - 

Inatori, K6ji-ya. 

Rendaiji, Yoshimura. 

Koura, Yasuda-ya. 

Matsuzaki, Shokai. 

m • Choyd-kwan, Meiji- 

kwan. 

Heda, Ariki-ya, Tokiwa. 

Shizu-ura, *H6yo-kwan. 

Ushibuse, Mishima-kwan. 

The Tokaido Bailway is joined at 
Numazu. 



3. — To the Hot Spkings of Shu- 
zenji, and over amagi-san to 
Shimoda. 

Train from Mishima Junction on 
the Tokaido Eailway in 1 hr. due S. 
to Ohito, whence 1 ri 8 cho by basha 
to Shuzenji. 

SHUZENJI to:— Ri Cho M. 

Yugashima 3 18 8J 

Nashimoto 5 6 12£ 

Mitsukuri 2 8 5j 

SHIMODA 2 5 5J 

Total 13 — 32 



For travellers from Yokohama 
or up the T6kaid5 this is a 2 or 3 
days' trip, which should be arranged 
in such fashion as to sleep the first 
night at Shuzenji or Yugashima 
whence Shimoda could be reached 
on the second. It is possible to 
take jinrikisha all the way; but 
two or three men would be neces- 
sary for the ascent of the Amagi- 
toge, through which a tunnel, 530 
yards in length, has been cut. Take 
it altogether, the way beyond Shuzen- 
ji is hilly, and scarcely to be recom- 
mended except to pedestrians, who 
will find it replete with natural 
beauty, and be able to sleep at a hot 
spring every night. 



Sliuzenji. 



159 



Passing from Mishima Junction 
(Inn, Honda-ya) through Mishima- 
machi, a town which boasts a large 
Shinto temple to Oyama-tsumi, the 
god of mountains, the line runs 
along a narrow, well-cultivated 
plain, or rather valley, bounded on 
the W. by green hills of abrupt and 
fantastic shapes, and on the E. by 
the long hog's-back which shuts out 
Odawara Bay. Through this valley 
flows the Kan5-gawa, on an affluent 
of which, the Katsura-gawa, stands 
Shuzenji. The rocky sides of Jb- 
yama ("castle hill") present a 
striking aspect as seen on the r. of 
Ohito station. 

Shuzenji (Inns, Arai-ya, Kiku- 
ya, (Europ. food and beds) ; Noda- 
ya; and many others. Pleasantly 
situated among low hills, this place 
is much resorted to on account of 
its mineral waters, some of which 
contain carbonate of soda, others 
traces of sulphur. In the middle 
of the torrent which flows down 
through the village, a hot spring 
gushes out in a basin of rock. The 
spot has been caged in and con- 
nected with the bank by a tiny 
bridge, so that bathers may either 
luxuriate in the high temperature of 
the spring, or moderate it by means 
of the cold water of the river. 
Numerous other hot springs supply 
baths lining the river bank, — some 
public, some the private property of 
the chief inns. These latter are 
pleasant and suitable for Europeans. 

[Those who do not wish to go 
beyond Shuzenji may make a 
charming little round by walk- 
ing thence to Mito on the coast, 
3 ri, and then sailing or rowing 
to Shizu-ura, and on foot or 
by jinrikisha to Kumazu, the 
whole occupying 5 or 6 hours. — 
Another way for pedestrians is 
over Tenjin-yama, stony but 
commanding a magnificent 
view, the distance from Shuzen- 
ji to Ileda being 4 ri 8 chb 
(10 \ m.); thence northwards 
along lovely Enoura Bay.] 



Behind the vill. of Odaira, and 
visible from the road, is Asahi no 
taki, a cascade about 100 ft. in 
height, forming a series of four or 
five falls. All this neighbourhood 
abounds in hot springs, those of 
Seko no taki being the most notable 
(8 chb off the main road from Yuga- 
shima), and picturesquely situated. 

Yugashima (Inns, Yumoto-ya, 
Ochiai-ro at the hot springs, about 
10 min. to the r. off the main road) 
is a hamlet at the foot of the Amagi- 
tbge. The ascent of this pass 
(3 ri) is easy, leading over grassy 
hills and the forest-clad slope of 
one of the spurs to the r. of Amagi- 
san. 

Amagi-san, is the general name given 
to the whole mountain mass stretchiDg 
across the peninsula of Izu from E. to 
W., the loftiest summit of which is called 
Banjiro, 4,540 ft. 

The traveller should turn aside to 
visit the cascade of Jbren no taki, 
formed by the waters of the Kano- 
gawa. It is close to the main road. 

Just before reaching Nashimoto, 
it is worth turning aside, 10 
chb, to see the Oiaro waterfall, 
which supplies Shimoda with electric 
power. The hot springs of 

Yugano ( Inn, Edo-ya) are pretti- 
ly situated on the banks of the 
Kawazu-gawa, some 6 chb from the 
hamlet of Nashimoto, at the foot of 
the pass on the other side. Here a 
road branches off to other hot 
springs at Kawazu-no-hama on the 
coast (1J ri). Beyond Nashimoto the 
old road crosses the Konabe-tbge, a 
climb of 18 chb, ( jinrikishas go round 
via Kiiano-sawOj, where the old road 
is regained, 1 ri longer), and after 
passing Mitsukuri, descends a well- 
cultivated valley irrigated by the 
waters of the Nozugawa, a stream 
which flows into the harbour of 
Shimoda. The country round is 
beautifully diversified, every hill 
laid out in a series of terraces plant- 
ed with rice and barley. The con- 
spicuous cone-shaped hill which 
seems from the vill. of Kbchi, to 



160 



Route 8. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



block up the month of the valley, is 
called Shimoda Fuji. Three cho 
from Kochi stands the hamlet of 
Bendaiji (Inn, Yoshimura), noted for 
its hot springs, which make it pre- 
ferable to Shimoda as a stopping- 
place, the distance between the two 
occupying only \ hr. by jinrikisha. 
Beyond Rendaiji. the valley widens 
till it forms an extensive open plain 
before reaching 

Shimoda (Inns, Matsumoto-ya, 
Awaman-ro), a town compactly 
built and regularly laid out. The 
situation of Shimoda affords a 
healthy climate, owing to the dry- 
ness of the soil and the fresh sea- 
breezes. The harbour, though small, 
is safe and commodious. There is 
also an inner anchorage for small 
junks and boats, which is connected 
with the Nozugawa, being con- 
structed by means of dykes and a 
breakwater. From Shimoda is ex- 
ported much of the building stone 
employed in Tokyo. It comes from 
extensive quarries at Sawada, about 
3 J ri distant. 

Shimoda was first visited in 1854 by 
Commodore Perry. The treaty which he 
concluded made it an open port for 
American shipping ; and here Mr. Towns- 
end Harris, the United States minister, 
resided until the substitution of Kana- 
gawa as a trading port in 1859. This 
change was motived by an earthquake and 
tidal wave which rendered the harbour 
useless for large ships and overwhelmed 
the town. The graves of some Americans 
buried here during the fifties are still 
shown at Gryokusenji, a temple 40 min. 
walk from the town. 

The easiest way to quit Shimoda 
is by taking one of the small 
steamers to Atami, which call at 
two or three intermediate places. 
There is also daily steamer com- 
munication with Numazu. For 
itinerary of the coast road to Atami, 
see p. 157. 

4. — Feom Yugashima to Atami. 

This is a pleasant 1J day's walk 
from the centre of the peninsula 
to the sea at ltd (p. 158), where 



spend the first night, and thence 
along the coast to Atami. Two 
passes have to be crossed, the first — 
the Nagano-toge— a climb of 40 min. 
immediately on leaving Yugashima, 
and the other— the Hiekawa-tdge — 
somewhat shorter just before de- 
scending to ltd. The coast road is 
also hilly, affording charming views. 
The Itinerary is as follows : 

YUGASHIMA to :— Bi Cho M.' 

Nagano 20 1J- 

Harabo 2 — 5 

Hiekawa 1 19 3J 

ltd 2 — 5 

ATAMI 5 17 13\ 

Total 11 14 28 



BOUTE 8. 



Fuji and Neighbourhood. 

1. geneeal infoemation. 2. as- 
cent feom suba.shibi. 3. ascent 
feom gotemba. 4. ascent feom 
yoshida. 5. ascent feom muea- 
yama. 6. summit of fuji. 7. 
ciecuit of fuji half-way up. 

(Of. map facing p. 147.) 

1. — Genebal Infoemation. 

Time. — Mere hurried ascent of 
Fuji and back to l r okohama, 1 day 
and night; more comfortably in 2 
days and 1 night, which latter is 
spent at one of the huts on the 
mountain. 

The pleasantest plan is to com- 
bine the ascent of Fuji with a visit 
to the Miyanoshita-Hakone district, 
devoting at least a week to the en- 
tire trip, and climbing the moun- 
tain during whichever portion of 



General Infoivnation. 



161 



that time seems to promise the 
most settled weather. The ascent 
is usually made between the 15th 
July and 10th September, the huts 
to accommodate pilgrims being 
closed during the rest of the year, 
and the coolie guides (goriki) fear- 
ing to go up so long as any snow 
remains on the pass. The huts are 
built of stone; the accommodation 
provided is very rough, and crowd- 
ing frequent. Besides those on the 
way up, there are a number on 
various points of the summit, the 
newest and best being one at the 
top of the Subashiri ascent. The 
charge is 1| yen per night. The best 
time is from the 25th July to the 
10th August. 

The shortest way of reaching Fuji 
from Yokohama is to take rail to Go- 
temha 3 hrs., where as at Subashiri, 
guides, horses, and foreign saddles 
can be procured. The huts provide 
rough quilts and charcoal to ward 
off the cold air at night ; but blan- 
kets would be found more useful to 
the foreign traveller, who must also 
bring his own food. Rather than 
stay at Gotemba and make the 
ascent thence, it is, however, prefe- 
rable to push on 7 J m. by horse tram 
(2 hrs.) to Subashiri on the E. slope 
of the mountain, which stands 
higher (3,000 ft. instead of 1,500 ft.), 
and whence the climb is somewhat 
easier. An alternative way from 
Tokyo is to take the Central Rail- 
way (see Route 30) as far as Ozuki 
(4 hrs.) whence by horse tram to 
Yoshida{^ hrs.) at the N. base (of. 
map facing p. 147). Travellers from 
the Kobe direction may alight at 
Fuji or Suzukawa, whence by horse 
tram from either station in 1J 
hr. to Omiya {Inn. Omiya-tei) for 
the Murayama ascent. It is also 
possible to ascend from Suyama, 
S.E., and Hito-ana, S.W. ; but these 
two routes have nothing special to 
recommend them. Details of the 
ascent from Subashiri, etc., are given 
below. 

Numbers of travellers choose 
rather to reach Fuji from Miyano- 



shita or Hakone, by walking to 
Gotemba over the Otome-toge (see 
p. 152). In this case, they can pro- 
vide themselves with all necessaries 
at the Fuji-ya Hotel. It is advisable 
to take plenty of warm clothing, 
as the temperature falls below 
freezing-point at night on the 
summit of the mountain even 
during the hottest period of sum- 
mer. It is also prudent to take 
an extra supply of food, as parties 
have occasionally been detained on 
the mountain side by stress of wea- 
ther, unable either to reach the sum- 
mit or to descend to the base. It 
is possible, by sleeping at Subashiri, 
Gotemba, or Murayama, and start- 
ing at dawn, to reach the summit 
and descend again in a single day. 
Counting the working day as 
having 15 hrs. (4 a.m. to 7 p.m.), 
this would allow 10 hrs. for the 
ascent, including short stoppages, 
2 hrs. at the top, and 3 hrs. for 
the descent. The shortest time in 
which the ascent and descent have 
been known to be made from 
Gotemba station), including stop- 
pages, is 9 hrs. 8 min., of which 6 
hrs. 50 min. were occupied in the 
ascent. But persons not ambitious 
of "breaking the record" are urged 
to pursue the following course: — 
leave Subashiri before daylight,— 
say at 2 a.m., — thus including the 
glory of sunrise on the way up. 
After sunrise, do the remainder of 
the ascent slowly, reaching the 
summit about midday. Having 
established himself in one of the 
huts on the summit, the traveller 
should go down into the crater, 
make the round of the crater, and 
spend the night at the top. Thi3 
will a-ford the chance of a sunset 
and of a second sunrise, after which 
last the descent can be at once 
begun. The descent will take most 
people from 4 J to 5 hrs. The great 
advantage of this plan is that it 
multiplies the chances of a good 
view from the summit, —such views 
being much more often obtained at 
sunrise and sunset than in the mid- 



162 



Route 8. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



die of the day, and being by no 
means certain at any time. An al- 
ternative plan for those wishing to 
avoid fatigue is to break the ascent 
at No. 6 hut, 

Fuji is more easily ascended than 
many mountains far inferior in 
height, as it presents no obstacles 
in the shape of rocks or under- 
growth. The first 6,000 ft. can 
moreover be performed on horse- 
back, after which the accomplish- 
ment of the remainder is merely a 
question of perseverance. The 
distance to the summit from the 
point named Uma-gaeshi is unequal- 
ly divided into ten parts called go, 
which are subdivided in some cases 
into halves called go-shaku. The 
first station is thus Ichi-go-me, the 
second Ni-go-me, and so on, the last 
before the summit is reached being 
Ku-go-me, or the ninth. At most of 
these stations, as also at the top, are 
huts where accommodation for the 
night, boiled rice, eggs, and water 
can be obtained. 

The go is generally used as a measure of 
capacity. One explanation given by the 
Japanese of the application of this method 
of calculation to Fuji is that the mountain 
resembles in shape a heap of dry rice 
poured out of a measure, and that con- 
sequently its subdivisions must corres- 
pond to the fractions of the latter. How- 
ever this may be, the go is used as a tenth 
part of the ri throughout the island of 
Kyushu, and traces of the same usage 
linger in Shikoku. 

The number of coolies required 
will of course depend on the amount 
of baggage to be carried. When 
ladies are of the party, it is advisable 
to have a spare man or two to pull 
and push them up when tired. 
Gaiters or puttees may advantage- 
ously be worn during the descent, 
to prevent sand and ashes from 
getting inside the boots. 

Fuji, often called Fuji-san, that is 
Mount Fuji, and by the poets Fuji-no- 
yama, that is the Mountain of Fuji, 
whence the form Fujiyama often used by 
Europeans, stands between the provinces 
of Surugaand Koshu, and is the highest, 
the most beautiful, and the most famous 



mountain in Japan. The height of Ken- 
ga-mine, the westernmost and highest 
point of the crater wall, is given by the 
Geological Survey as 12,390 ft. - 

Though now quiescent, Fuji must still 
be accounted a volcano. Frequent men- 
tion is made in Japanese literature of the 
smoke of Fuji, which, if the expressions 
used by poets may be takeD as indicating 
facts, must have formed a constant 
feature in the landscape at least as late as 
the 14th century. An author who flou- 
rished about the end of the 9th century 
says : " There is a level space at the sum- 
mit, about 1 ri square, having a depres- 
sion in the centre shaped like a cauldron, 
at the bottom of which is a pond. This 
cauldron is usually filled with vapour 
of a pure green (or blue) colour, and the 
bottom appears like boiling water. The 
steam is visible at a great distance from 
the mountain." In 967, a small mountain 
was formed at the eastern base of Fuji. 
This was probably the hump called 
Ko-Fuji, on the 1. of the second station 
on the Gotemba ascent. A traveller's 
diary of the year 1021 speaks of smoke 
rising from the slightly flattened summit, 
while at night fire was seen to issue from 
the crater. Eruptions also occurred in 
1082 and 1649. The most recent one 
began on the 16th December, 1707, and 
lasted with intervals till the 22nd 
January, 1708. This being the period 
known in Japanese chronology as Hoei, 
the name of Hbei-zan was given to the 
hump then formed on the upper slope of 
the S. side of the mountain. According 
to another account, a projection had 
always existed in this place, but was 
rendered more conspicuous by this latest 
eruption. Be this as it may, it is record- 
ed that the ashes lay 6 ft. deep on the 
Tokaido near Hara and Yoshiwara, and 
even fell in Yedo to a depth of 6 inches. 
Even at the present day, small quantities 
of steam continue to issue through the 
ashes on the E.or Subashiri side of the 
mountain, just outside the lip of the 
crater. 

Enormous must have been the torrents 
of lava that have flowed from Fuji on 
different occasions. Fifteen miles from 
the summit in a direct line, at the vill. 
of Matsuno on the r. bank of the Fuji- 
kawa, is the termination of one of these 
streams, while another may be studied 
on the N.E. side of the base, between 
Yoshida and Funatsu. But most of the 
lava has long since been covered up by 
the deep deposits of ashes and scoriae, 
and only becomes visible here and there 
where it is denuded by the streams 
which furrow the lower part of the 
mountain. 

An effort was made by a bold meteoro- 
logist, Mr. Nonaka, to spend the winter of 
1895-6 on the top. His friends, fearing 
the result, sent up a relief party before 
Christmas, which found him and his 



Ascent from Subashiri. 



168 



courageous wife in such terrible plight 
that they had to be carried down. 

Fuji ranks high among the many sacred 
mountains in Japan, and is crowded with 
pilgrims during the brief summer season, 
who repair to the summit to worship, and 
to purchase charms sold by the priests. 
Most of these pilgrims belong to the peas- 
ant class. In former years, women were 
debarred from ascendiug to the top of all 
these sacred peaks. On Fuji the eighth 
station was their furthest limit. The pro- 
hibition no longer applies here, though it 
has been re-introduced in some localities. 
The aspect of Fuji has so strougly im- 
pressed the national mind that many other 
hills of like shape derive their name 
from it. Thus we have the Bungo Fuji, 
Tsugaru Fuji, etc. The greatest distance 
at which Fuji has been seen at sea by the 
compilers of this Handbook is 103 miles. 
Post offices are available at the various 
stations on the way up ; also telephone 
communication with the eighth station. 

There is a military camp at the base 
where manoeuvres are carried out. 

Fuji stands by itself, rising with 
one majestic sweep from a plain 
almost surrounded by mountains. 
The S. side slopes right down to 
the sea, its outline being broken 
only on the S. E by the rugged 
peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the N. 
and W. rise steep granite ranges, 
stretching away from the Misaka- 
toge nearly to the junction of the 
Shibakawa with the Fujikawa. 
Against these mountains the show- 
ers of ashes ejected during ages 
from the crater have piled them- 
selves up, and confined in their 
separate basins the waters of 
Motosu, Shdji, and other lakes. 
The E. side is shut in by volcanic 
mountains of undetermined origin, 
beginning near Subashiri, and 
extending southwards into the 
peninsula of Izu. Among them 
lies Lake Hakone, with the nu- 
merous hot springs of Miyanoshita, 
Ashinoyu, Atami, etc. The base of 
Fuji is cultivated up to a height of 
about 1,500 ft., above which spreads 
a wide grassy moorland to 4,000 ft., 
where the forest commences. The 
upper limit of this varies consider- 
ably, being lowest on the E. side, 
namely, about 5,500 ft., on the 
ascent from Subashiri, and 7,900 ft., 
on the Murayama side. But on the 



W. face, between the Yoshida and 
Murayama ascents, and looking 
down over the plain round Hito- 
ana, it must extend as high as 
9,000 ft. or more. This difference 
is no doubt due in large measure 
to the comparatively recent distur- 
bance on the S. E. side, which 
caused the present conformation 
of Hoei-zan, when the greater part 
of the ashes ejected fell in the 
direction of Subashiri, destroying 
the forest, and leaving a desert 
waste which only a lapse of centu- 
ries can again clothe with vegeta- 
tion. To the same cause, namely, 
comparatively recent volcanic ac- 
tion, must be ascribed the almost 
entire absence of those Alpine 
plants which abound on the sum- 
mits of other high mountains in 
Japan, such as Ontake, Shirane in 
Koshu, and Yatsu-ga-take. Above 
the forest lies a narrow zone of 
bushes, chiefly dwarf larch. A few 
species of hardy plants are found 
up to a height of 10,000 ft. on some 
parts of the cone. 

2. —Ascent from Subashiri. 

Subashiri [Inn, Yoneyama). If 
the traveller intends to pass the 
night here, he should try to arrive 
early, so as to avoid difficulty in 
obtaining accommodation. In 
order to economise one's strength, 
it is advisable to take horses for the 
first 2 ri along a broad avenue up 
through the forest to some rest huts 
called Uma-gaeshi* or even up to 
Xo. 2 station, beyond which it is 
necessary to walk. A rough kind 
of cart goes as far as Uma-gaeshi to 
bring travellers back though 
not to take them up. The next 
stage of about 1 ri y still ascending 
gently, brings us to a small temple 
called Ko-Mitake, where staves are 
sold to help climbers on their way 



* Uma-gaeshi, lit. " horse send back," is 
the general name for that point on a 
mountain beyond which it is not custom- 
ary to ride. 



164 



Route 8.— Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



up. These staves are engraved 
with the name of the mountain, 
and can have a further inscription 
added by the priests who dwell at 
the summit. 

Though Fuji, as already stated, 
is theoretically divided on all its 
sides into ten parts, some of the 
stations no longer exist in practice, 
— that is, have no rest-huts,— while 
others are subdivided. 

The best stations on this ascent 
are Nos. 2, 6, 8, and the top. This 
should be borne in mind, in case of 
the necessity of calling a halt for the 
night on the way. About half-way 
between Ko-Mitake and No. 2 
station (No. 1 no longer exists), the 
path issues from the forest on to 
the bare cinders of the base. The 
steeper part of the ascent begins at 
No. 4. To the r. of No. 4 \ {shi-go- 
go-shaku) is a hut at the entrance 
to a small cave called Tainai, or 
the ** Womb." Up to about No. 5 
wild strawberries abound. At No. 6 
the Chud5-Meguri (see p. 167) 
joins in. From the 6th to a 
little beyond the 7th, one ascends 
by some steep lava dykes, and 
though there is no regular path, the 
way is distinctly marked by the 
cast-off sandals of the pilgrims. At 
No. 8 the Yoshida ascent comes in 
on the r. From here on, patches of 
snow will be found in rifts in the 
lava rock. Station 9 has a small 
shrine known as Mukai Sengen, 
that is, the Goddess of Fuji's Wel- 
come, intimating to the weary 
wayfarer, that he is approaching 
the goddess's sanctum. 

Approximate heights of the Stations. 

FT. 

Subashiri 2,520 

Uma-gaeshi 4,410 

Ko-Mitake 6,430 

No. 2 Station 7,560 

,, 4 „ 8,420 

„ 4£ , 8,570 

„ 5 ,, 9,400 

„ ^ „ 9,450 

,, 6 „ 9,800 

„ 7 „ 10,2;0 

„ 8 „ 10,990 

,, 9 „ 11,640 

Summit 12,100 



The descent as far as No. 8 is the 
same as the ascent. At No. 8 it 
diverges to the r. down a glissade 
(Jap. hashiri) of loose sand, over 
which one may skim at such a rate 
as to reach the upper end of the 
forest in no more than 2 hours from 
the summit. None of the huts are 
passed on the way. Ko-Mitake is 
about 15 min. further on through 
the wood. 



3. —Ascent feom Gotemba. 

Gotemba Station {Inn, Fuji-ya) 
stands 1 mile from the old vill. of 
the same name. A direct way 
leads up the mountain from the 
station by what is called the Naka- 
oata route. On this side horses 
should be engaged for the first 2 J 
hrs. of the ascent across an open 
and gently rising country. This 
takes one beyond Uma-gaeshi, where 
horses are supposed to be left, to 
Tarobo, (so called from a goblin 
who is there worshipped), where 
they are generally left. Indeed, 
there is no difficulty in riding as 
far as No. 2 station. The distances 
of this first part of the ascent are 
as follows : — 

GOTEMBA to: Bi Cho M. 

Nakabata 1 3 2J 

Uma-gaeshi 1 22 4 

Tarob5 15 1 

Total 3 4 7J 

To No. 2 station 45 min. more. 

Basha are also available as far as 
a tea-shed called Ichi-ri-matsu, 2 ri 
from Gotemba, and, if required, will 
await one' s return at Uma-gaeshi. 
Staves such as those mentioned 
under the Subashiri ascent are sold 
at Tarobo. The best huts are Nos. 
5, 6, 8, and the top. 

From No, 3 to 5 the path skirts 
Hoei-zan, where the steep portion 
of the ascent begins. The first lava 
crops out after No. 5, affording 



Ascent from Yoshida and from Murayama. 



165 



better foothold. At No. 6, a path 
turns oir* to Hoei-zan. Above No. 
8, the climb becomes more fatigu- 
ing, being now over loose cinders. 
At No. 10 — the top — there are three 
stone huts, fairly roomy and com- 
fortable. Should they all be oc- 
cupied by pilgrims, the traveller 
must walk round to the huts on the 
Subashiri side of the lip of the 
crater, about \ m. distant. A post 
office is opened at the top during 
the season for the sale of picture 
post-cards, etc. 

The descent is the same as the 
ascent as far as No. 7, whence by a 
glissade down to No. 2 J in less than 
1 hr. From Tarobd onwards, the 
descent will occupy nearly as much 
time as was required for the ascent. 
The entire journey down from the 
summit to Gotemba station can be 
accomplished in 5 hrs. 

4. — Ascent from Yoshida. 

Yoshida is an unusually long 
village, divided into an upper por- 
tion (Kami-Yoshida) and a lower 
portion \Shimo-Yoshida). From 
Kami Yoshida {Inn, Osakabe), the 
way to Uma-gaeshi, the 2nd station, 
leads up an avenue. The upper 
edge of the forest is not quitted till 
No. 5, as far as which it is possible 
to ride, is reached. Thus the view 
on the way up is less good by this 
route than on the Subashiri side, 
but there is more shade. People 
staying at Shoji had best choose 
this ascent ; but they need not 
actually go into Yoshida vill., as 
another path leading up from E. of 
Oda joins the Yoshida path on the 
mountain side. They must sleep 
at Ko-Mitake, where there is a good 
hut, as the expedition is too long 
for one day. 

5. — Ascent from Murayama. 

From Omiya to Murayama 
{Inn, Fujimasa) is a distance of 1 ri 
23 cho, whence to Hachiman, 



which is the Uma-gaeshi, or "rid- 
ing limit " on this side, 3 ri 8 cho. 
Thence onward it is necessary to 
walk. Of the various stations, No. 5 
is the most to be recommended, 
though all are fair, the ascent from 
Murayama having long been that 
most patronised by the native 
pilgrims, and therefore styled the 
Omote-guchi, or Front Entrance, to 
the mountain. This ascent, though 
long, has the advantage of offering 
more shade than the others and an 
absence of loose cinders. Some 
experienced climbers therefore 
recommend going up this way, and 
returning on the steeper Subashiri 
side. — A new and shorter route has 
been opened a little to the N. of 
the Murayama path; but both 
coincide from No. 4 station. 

6. — Sommit of Fuji. 

The Summit of the mountain 
consists of a series of peaks sur- 
rounding the crater, the diameter 
of which is not far short of 2,000 ft. 
The descent into it, down the loose 
talus of rock and cinders close to 
the huts at the top of the Mura- 
yama ascent, is easy; still it is 
advisable to take a guide. The 
bottom is reached in ^ hr. The 
floor, which is formed of cinders, 
inclines slightly from W. to E., and 
is intersected by small stream-beds, 
which at the E. end terminate 
among the loosely piled lava masses 
forming the core of the mountain. 
All round, except where the descent 
is made, rise precipitous rocky 
walls, from which large pieces 
detach themselves from time to 
time with a loud cracking sound 
like musketry. On the W. side, 
immediately under Ken-ga-mine, 
there is usually a large snow-slope. 
The depth of the crater has been 
variously estimated at 416 ft., 548 
ft., and 584 ft. The return to the 
edge will occupy about f hr. 

Before dawn the pilgrims betake 
themselves to Ken-ga-mine, to await 
the sun's rising. As soon as the orb 



1G6 



Route 8. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. 



appears, they greet it devoutly with 
muttered prayers and the rubbing 
of rosaries. 

Ken-ga-mine commands a mar- 
vellously extensive view. To the 
S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga, 
shut in on the E. by the lofty 
peninsula of Izu, and confined on 
the W. by Mio-no-Matsubara at the 
end of the long range dividing the 
valley of the Abekawa from that 
of the Fujikawa. S. W. is the 
broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa, 
its course above the point where it 
crosses the Tokaido being hidden 
by the lower hills. Westwards are 
seen all the lofty summits of the 
border range of Koshu and Shin- 
shu, beginning with the granite 
peak of Koma-ga-take and its 
lesser neighbours, Jizd and H6- 
6-zan, then the three summits 
of Shirane, the Koma-ga-take 
of Shinshu rising between the 
Tenryu-gawa and the Kisogawa, 
and so on to Ena-san in Mino 
and the top of Shichimen-zan 
near Minobu. Further to the r., 
extending northwards, comes the 
great range dividing far-off Hida 
from Shinshu, amongst whose 
peaks may be distinguished Nori- 
kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further 
remote in Etchu, the volcanic 
summits of Tateyama. Gradually 
moving E. again, along the north- 
ern horizon, we distinguish the 
mountains near Nagano,— Ken-no- 
mine and the extinct volcano of 
Myoko-zan. Nearer in the fore- 
ground rise the numerous sum- 
mits of Yatsu-ga-take ; and then 
glancing further N., we perceive 
Asama-yama's smoking crater, the 
mountains about the Mikuni Pass, 
and next, all the Nikko mountains, 
— Shirane, Nantai-zan and lesser 
peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen 
Kimpu-zan, easily recognised by its 
rounded shoulder and the pillar of 
rock at the summit; then Yakushi 
and Mitsumine in Chichibu, till 
the eye loses itself in a confusion of 
lower ridges. On the E. side of the 
crater, from almost any point that 



may be chosen, a prospect less 
extensive indeed, but surpassing 
this in beauty, meets our gaze. 
Far away across the plain, is dis- 
tinctly visible the double top of 
Tsukaba in Hitachi, while further 
S. we descry the outer edge of the 
Tdkyd plain, with Tokyo lying far 
up the bay; then in succession 
Capes Sagami and Sunosaki, Yries 
Island, the Gulf of Sagami, and 
nearer in the foreground beautiful 
Lake Hakone peacefully embosom- 
ed among green hills. 

On but few days in the season 
will the whole panorama here 
described be clearly visible. " Nor 
will the pilgrim be wholly 
fortunate unless he sees the 
superb cloud effects which the 
mountain affords. These are most 
likely to be enjoyed in ordinary 
summer weather, between noon 
and 6 o'clock in the evening, and 
they are truly magnificent. The 
summit of the mountain remains 
clear, but its shoulders and waist 
are surrounded by billowy masses 
of dense white vapour of indescrib- 
able splendour. Here and there a 
momentary break may permit a 
glimpse of the earth beneath; but 
usually nothing can be seen land- 
ward but this vast ocean of cloud, 
amid which the peak stands as the 
only island in the world. Turning 
seaward, the ocean itself can be 
seen over the circumambient 
vapour, and affords a striking con- 
trast to the turmoil and restless 
change of form of the clouds them- 
selves." 

A curious phenomenon may also 
sometimes be witnessed at sunrise 
or sunset. As the sun's rays appear 
above the horizon, or vanish 
below it, the shadow of Fuji 
is thrown in deep outline on 
the clouds and mist, which at that 
hour clothe the range of mountains 
to the west. The beautiful phe- 
nomenon commonly known as the 
"Spectre of the Brocken," may be 
seen from the lip of the crater at 
sunrise or sunset under favourable 



Summit and Circuit of Fuji. 



167 



conditions of mist. The spectator 
beholds his enormously magnified 
and transfigured self, —his head the 
centre of a circular bow or halo, 
-with the prismatic colours in con- 
centric rings. 

Descending again from Ken-ga- 
mine, the path passes under it, and 
just above the steep talus called 
Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (" Heedless 
of Parent or Child"), from the 
notion that people in danger of 
falling over the edge of the crater 
would not heed even their nearest 
relatives if sharers of the peril. 
The name occurs at similarly peril- 
ous places in many parts of Japan. 
Continuing X., the path skirts the 
edge of the cone, passing a huge 
and precipitous gorge which ap- 
pears to extend downwards to the 
very base of the mountain. This 
gorge is called Osavca, the lower 
limit of which may be some 6,000 ft. 
above the sea, or only half-way from 
the summit. Passing across the 
flank of the Bai-iica, or " Thunder 
Bock," the path goes outside the cra- 
ter wall, ascends the Shaka no Wari- 
ishi ("Shaka's Cleft Rock"), and 
leaving Shaka-ga-take — the second 
loftiest peak— behind, descends to 
the Kim-mei-sui (" Famous Golden 
Water"), a spring of ice-cold water 
situated on the flat shelf between 
the N. edge of the crater and the 
outer wall. Ascending again, the 
path passes the row of huts at the 
top of the ascent from Yoshida 
and Subashiri, and reaches a torii 
commanding the best view of the 
crater. It then turns again to the 
1., and goes outside the wall of the 
crater, underneath Kicannon-ga- 
take. Here the interesting phe- 
nomenon may be observed of steam 
still issuing from the soil in several 
places, one of which is close to the 
path, while another lies near at 
hand on the 1., about 50 ft. down 
the exterior of the cone, and a third 
is seen immediately underneath a 
wall of rock 50 yards ahead. A few 
inches below the surface, the heat is 
great enough to boil an egg. 



Beyond this point, the path crosses 
a depression known as Seishi-ga- 
kubo, ascends E. the Sai-no-kawara, 
which is dotted with cairns raised 
in honour of Jizo, descends to 
the Gim-mei-sui ("Famous Silver 
Water,") at the top of the Gotemba 
ascent, and passing under the low 
peak named Ko?na-ga-take, reaches 
the huts at the top of the path from 
Murayama. Between this last 
point and Ken-ga-mine, is a small 
crater named Konoshiro-ga-ike, ac- 
cessible from the N. The total 
distance round the large crater is 
popularly said to be 1 ri> or 
2 J miles ; but this is doubtless an 
exaggeration. An interesting hour 
may be devoted to making the 
circuit, which will allow for pauses 
at all the best points of view. 

7.— Circuit of Fuji half-way up. 
(Chudo-Megubi.) 

This walk is a favourite with 
native lovers of the picturesque; 
for it is easy, and commands a 
splendid panoramic view over the 
country in the immediate vicinity, 
which gradually unfolds itself 
before the eyes of the spectator as 
he moves along. The path en- 
circles Fuji at heights varying from 
9,490 ft. on the Gotemba side 
(which it intersects at station No. 6) 
to 7,450 ft. on the Yoshida side. 
It is best to turn to the 1. on 
starting from the above-mentioned 
No. 6 station, because the path 
descends a rapid slope of loose sand 
from the ridge of Hoei-zan towards 
the W., which would be very fatigu- 
ing if taken in the opposite direc- 
tion. The path proceeds along the 
narrow ridge of Hoei-zan, turns 
down into the deep hollow formed 
by the eruption of 1707-8, crosses 
the ridge at its further side to a 
broad plateau strewn with the 
cast-off sandals of pilgrims, and 
climbs steeply to hut No. 5 on the 
Murayama ascent. It then con- 
tinues W. over dykes of lava until 



168 



Route Q.— Shoji and Base of Fuji. 



it reaches the great Osawa ravine, 
and, descending the mountain to 
the 1. of the huge mass of lava 
which here projects over the 
chasm, passes through a wood of 
larches and rhododendrons to the S. 
edge of the ravine, which is now 
crossed. The path onward lies 
alternately through the wood and 
over the bare northern side of the 
cone to the prettily situated temple 
of Ko-Mitake, where a good hut 
affords accommodation for the 
night. Shortly beyond this point 
the path divides, the r. branch, 
which should be taken, leading to 
No. 5 J on the Yoshida ascent, 
whence Lake Yamanaka is well 
seen almost due E. Turning orr* 
1. at No. 6, the path winds over 
the lava dykes to No. 5 on the 
Subashiri ascent, and then by a 
gentle gradient back to our start- 
ing-point. The time required for 
the entire circuit is from 7 to 8 hrs. 



KOUTE 9. 

1. Shoji and the Rapids of the 
Fujikawa. 2. Waterfalls of 
kami-ide. 3. ashitaka-yama. 

1. — Shoji. 

Travellers from Yokohama can 
reach Shoji in one rather long 
day by taking the first train from 
Higashi Kanagawa (see p. 109); 
those from Tokyo by the Shinjiku- 
Hachioji railway (see p. 140). Both 
lines meet at Hachioji Jet., whence 
by the Central Railway to Ozuki 
(see Route 30) ; time about 4 hrs. in 
either case. A horse tramway runs 
via Yamura to Kami-Yoshida {Inns, 
Otogawa Hotel; Osakabe), 4 \ hrs. 
(A special car costs 6£ yen.) Travellers 
from the West or Miyanoshita take 
the tramway from Gotemba station 
(Inn, Fujiya) via Subashiri (Inn, 



Yoneyama) and the Kago-naka Pass 
to Kami-Yoshida, as above. (A 
special car costs 8 J yen.) Though 
very poor and slow— 5 J hrs. — all but 
sturdy walkers should avail them- 
selves of it. On the way from Yoshi- 
da to Shoji via the Lakes, jinrikishas 
can be taken as far as Funatsu 
(Inn, Naka-ya, on the water-side) the 
other non-boating portions must be 
walked, unless previous arrange- 
ments be made to have horses 
waiting. If the start be made from 
Miyanoshita, the first night should 
be spent at l r oshida, whence Shdji 
is an easy half-day hence of alter- 
nate walking and boating. The itin- 
erary from Gotemba is as follows : — 

GOTEMBA to:- Bi Cho M. 

Subashiri \ T 3 7 J 

Kami- Yoshida] lram 5 22 13$ 

Funatsu , 1 1 2| 

Nagahama (1| hr. by 

boat across Lake 

Kawaguchi) 

Nishi-no-umi . . 15 1 

Nemba (1 hr. by boat 

across Lake Nishi- 
no-umi, two men 

necessary) 

ShojiLake.. 1 11 3} 

SHOJI Hotel (J hr. by 

boat) or on foot 

round Lake 1 — 2£ 

Total 12 13 301 



Plus 2 J hrs. boat. 

From Shoji to Tambara or Yoka- 
ichiba, 1 day on foot, on horseback, 
or in kago. From Yoka-ichiba, J 
day in boat (price for private boat 
6 yen for one or two passengers, 
and 50 sen extra for each additional 
passenger) to Iwabuchi on the 
Tokaido Railway. 

[An alternative way from Yoshida 
to Shdji for pedestrians or 
horsemen avoids the Lakes, 
and leads via Narusawa, about 
12 miles. Though less pretty, 
it is to be preferred in stormy 
weather.] 



Shoji — Kami-ide Waterfall. 



169 



The special charm of this route 
lies in the continuous near views 
of Fuji. Lovely, too, are the chain 
of lakes that half encircle the great 
mountain's base, the forest covering 
the lava-flow on its N. W. slope, 
and the Fujikawa with its rapids. 
The Foreign Hotel crowning the 
little peninsula of Unosaki at Shoji 
is beautifully situated on the S. 
side of the lake \ 3,1 60 ft. above 
sea-level), opposite the village. 
There is no reason for visiting this 
latter, which, like most of the 
neighbouring hamlets, is squalid. 
A boat sent from the Hotel obviates 
the necessity of passing through it. 
Shoji affords bathing in summer, 
skating in winter, and a number of 
walks amidst unrivalled scenery. 
Most notable is the grand panorama 
from a hill, 1 hr. climb behind the 
hotel. An interesting half -day's ex- 
pedition is to a remarkable Ice Gave 
(Kori-ana), which long lay hidden in 
the dense forest growth on Fuji's 
slope at a height of 3,750 ft. The 
dimensions are: — length, 568 ft.; 
average width, 36^ ft. ; height, 32 ft. 
The floor is solid ice of unknown 
thickness and there is an unex- 
plored cavity down which the wind 
constantly rushes. Two smaller ice 
caves exist in the neighbourhood, 
besides another cave in which lived 
and died a succession of hermits in 
the olden time. 

[Shoji may also be reached from 
Kofu by basha for 2 ri over the 
plain to the vill of Ubaguchi 
and walking thence over the 
steep but picturesque Ubaguchi- 
toge and Onna-toge [5% ri).] 

On leaving Shoji, pedestrians go 
one way, — over the hill mentioned 
above, — riders go another, 1 ri 
longer, through the forest ; both via 
Lake Motosu, the most beautiful of 
all Fuji's lakes. At Furuseki again, 
there is a choice of ways, - an upper 
road 1 ri shorter over a steep hill, 
and a lower one down the valley, 
passing through Ichinose. The two 



unite further down. The total dis- 
tance is thus 5, 6, or 7 ri, according 
to circumstances. The river is 
reached at Tambara, whence it is a 
short drop down to Yoka-ichiba (Inn, 
Wakao-ya) on the opposite bank. 
There is also a good inn ( Motsuzaka- 
ya) at Kiri-ishi, a little higher up 
the stream. — For a description of 
the rapids of the Fujikawa and for 
the temples of Minobu, where a 
spare day may well be spent, see 
Ete. 30, Sect. 4. 



2. — Kami-Ide. 



Itinerary. 

SHOJI to:— Ri Cho 31 

Motosu 17 3 

Nebara 1 4 2f 

Hito-ana . 2 4 5^ 

KAMI-IDE 18 3 

Total 5 23 14 



This alternative way of reaching 
the Tokaidd Railway from Shoji 
offers attractions differing from 
those of the previous section. It is 
recommended whenever heavy rains 
make the rapids of the Fujikawa 
dangerous. The distance from Shoji 
to Kami-ide must be done on foot or 
horseback. Kami-Ide is connected 
with Suzukawa station for travellers 
bound E. and with Fuji station for 
those bound W. — 2£ hrs. to either 
place — by horse tramway. 

Emerging from the forest, and 
skirting Lake Motosu, we come 
to the open moor which occupies 
the whole western slope of Fuji. 
The cave of Hito-ana is hardly 
worth turning aside to see. A 
better plan for pedestrians, though 
somewhat longer, is to abandon 
the highway about 1 ri beyond 
Nebara, striking to the r. across 
the open moor to reach some 
remarkable springs (Mizu-moto) at 
the scattered hamlet of I-no-kashira. 
These gushing springs, which are 
said to derive their origin from 



170 Route 10.— Chichibu and Temple of Mitsumine. 



Lake Motosu, the fields and groves 
and murmuring brooks, and Fuji's 
perfect symmetry of shape from 
this point combine to form a lovely 
picture. Following along the 1. 
bank of the Shibakawa, past a 
pretty cascade, one strikes the road 
leading to the beautiful waterfalls 
of Shiraito, which are precipitated 
over a wall of black lava. The two 
largest, some 85 ft. in height, are 
called respectively 0-daki and Me- 
daki, or the Male and Female Cas- 
cades, and there are more than 
forty smaller falls, their children. 
A few yards off another stream 
forms a fine cascade, about 100 ft. 
high and 30 ft. wide, called Oto- 
dome, lit " noise-stopping." 

According to legend, the Soga Brethren 
(p. 84), when on their way to wreak venge- 
ance on the murderer of their father, 
met here, one coming to the top of the 
fall, the other to the bottom ; and the 
waters ceased their roaring to enable 
them to hold converse. 

Eight cho beyond the waterfalls, 
lies the vill. of Kami-Ide (poor inn). 
About 1 ri out of Kami-Ide, but off 
the road, stands an interesting old 
temple of the Nichiren sect, called 
Daishakuji. 

On the tram journey from Omiya 
(Inn, Omiya-tei) to Suzukawa some 
large paper factories are passed at 
Iriyamase and Temma. 

Suzukawa (see Route 23). 

3. — AsHITAEA-YAMA. 

A pedestrian desirous of complet- 
ing the circuit of Fuji literally 
might ascend Ashitaka-yama 
from Hara on the Tdkaidd Railway ; 
but the inn there is poor. The inns 
at Numazu are good, and the expe- 
dition thence not much longer, 
namely, a short day, — the first hour 
up as far as Sakashita by jinrikisha 
with 2 men, whence on foot to the 
summit, which affords a beautiful 
and extensive view. The descent 
to Suyama for Gotemba entails too 
much struggling through tall bam- 
boo grass to be recommended. 



Ashitaka-yama, 3,950 ft, looks higher 
owing to its remarkable shape, — two peaks 
joined saddle-wise. Down to the 17th 
century wild horses herded on its grassy, 
partly forest-covered slope ; and the peas- 
antry still believe that bamboo grass 
gathered on its summit will cure all the 
diseases to which the horse is heir. A 
pilgrimage is made to the ruinous Shinto 
shrine at the top on the 17th January. 
The 8th April is a second festival day. 



ROUTE 10. 



Chichibu and the Temple of 
Mitsumine. 

The district of Chicliibu lies in 
the W. corner of the province of 
Musashi, separated by its moun- 
tains from the provinces of Kotsuke 
on the N.W, and Koshu on jthe S. 
W. The principal town, Omiya 
(not to be confounded with the 
railway station of the same name 
nearer Tokyo), is best reached 
from Tokyo by rail to Eumagai (see 
p. 172), whence branch line in 1 hr. 
to Hagure, and 2§ hrs. by jinrikisha. 
On leaving the train, the lesser 
hills of the Chichibu range are 
approached, and the scenery im- 
proves. Narrow valleys leading up 
to various low passes are entered, 
where mountain, rock, forest, and 
river lend a charm to the scene. 

Omiya (Inn, Kado-ya) stands 
close to Buko-mn, 4,360 ft., the 
highest mountain in the district; 
but there is little inducement to 
climb it, as the forest with which 
it is clothed shuts out almost all 
view. The town is noted for its 
fairs, which are largely attended 
during the season by dealers in raw 
silk and cocoons. 

At the hamlet of Kagemori, 20 cho 
S. W. of Omiya, a path turns off 1., 
leading in J hr. to a temple of 
Kwannon called Hashidate-dera, 



Temple of Mitsumine. 



171 



where is a remarkable cave consist- 
ing of two chief ramifications in the 
limestone rock. Inspection, which 
will occupy about \ hr., is facilitated 
by means of ladders and planks. 
The stalactites in the cave assume a 
variety of fantastic shapes, to which 
names mostly connected with Bud- 
dhism are given. A guide is obtain- 
able at the temple. 

Interesting alike for its beautiful 
surroundings and its antiquity is 
the temple on Mitsumine-san, a 
mountain 6 ri to the S.W. of Omiya. 
A good jinrikisha road takes one as 
far as the vill. of Niegawa, 3 J ri ; the 
remainder must be walked. The 
cave described above may be visited 
on the way by making a slight 
detour (say % hr.), that is, by leaving 
the road at Kagemori, and rejoining 
it a few cho further on, close to 
the bridge called Fuji-bashi over 
the Arakawa, up the course of which 
river most of the way lies. Nie- 
gawa (fair accommodation) com- 
mands a fine view, with Buko-zan 
standing sentinel-like at the mouth 
of the valley. Thence the scenery 
becomes grander; the path keeps 
along the 1. bank, rising frequently 
to cross the spurs of the hills, and 
the river winds picturesquely 
among thickly wooded slopes that 
rise on either hand to a height of 
about 1,000 ft. A large projecting 
rock has been cut through at a spot 
called Odahara, shortly after which 
the path diverges down to a bridge 
spanning the river. On the opposite 
side stands a torii at the entrance to 
the sacred mountain. An avenue of 
cryptomerias marks the remainder 
of the way through the forest, — a 
steep climb of 52 cho„ with rest- 
houses at intervals. 
£ The temple buildings stand in a 
grove of lofty chamoecyparis trees, 
close by the upper torii at a height 
of 3,000 ft. above the sea. 

The foundation of this temple is refer- 
red to at a very early epoch. The name 
of Mitsumine-no-niiya is alleged to have 
been bestowed npon it by the legendary 
Emperor Keiko, from the three con- 



tiguous peaks, — Kumotori, Shiroiwa, and 
Myoho, on the latter of which the temple 
stands. In A.D. 737, the reigning Empress 
placed an image of the Buddhist goddess 
Kwannon within the grounds. In 15j:J 
Mitsumine became the seat of the Seigo- 
in branch of the Tendai sect. Finally, 
the rehabilitation of Shinto in our own 
day has again brought it, after the lapse 
of many centuries, within the fold of the 
native religion. Two festivals are held 
annually, on the 8th April and 2nd 
December. 

Some noble cryptomerias guard 
the approach to the main temple, in 
front of which the huge wooden lan- 
tern r. and the building over the 
holy- water cistern 1. are a mass of 
carvings of Chinese figures, and 
birds and beasts. No less admi- 
rable, though more weather-beaten, 
are the carvings on the exterior of 
the temple itself. The interior 
has been emptied of its elaborate 
Buddhist furniture to make way 
for the simple requirements of 
Shinto — drums and mirrors. The 
shrine on the r. is dedicated to 
Yamato-take, that on the 1. to 
Kuni-toko-tachi, while there are 
numerous subsidiary shrines to 
lesser deities. The quadrangular 
building further 1. serves for the 
accommodation of pilgrims. The 
traveller who presents a suitable 
gift of money on arrival, will be 
made comfortable and regaled with 
vegetarian food. Beyond this 
again stand the temple-offices, the 
priests' dwellings, etc. One of 
these latter— the Daisho-in — de- 
serves inspection for the sake of its 
brightly painted fusuma of Chinese 
scenes on a gold ground by Bokkei. 
The temple godown also holds 
many art treasures. The Okusha 
lies 30 cho higher up the mountain, 
but affords little view. 

On the return journey the visitor 
should take the Ura-michi, or Back 
Way, which is less steep and more 
open than the front approach. It 
leads past the pumping station 
which supplies the temple with 
water, and rejoins the main road to 
Omiya at a point higher up the 
course of the Arakawa. 



172 



Route 11.— Tokyo to Karuizawa by rail. 



Enthusiastic walkers may, in- 
stead of returning the way they 
came, proceed over the Karizaka- 
toge to Kofu. The distance is 
estimated at 20 ri from Mitsumine. 
The first day' walk should end at 
Odaki ; the next will include the 
portion locally known as Hachi-ri 
Hatchb, which is a distance of 8 ri 
8 chb without a sign of habitation 
till Kumagawa is reached, where the 
second night is spent ; the third 
day will take one easily into Kofu. 
This trip is only feasible in summer. 
Or else Hikawa, situated in the 
yalley of the Tamagawa (see Route 
30), about 11 ri from Omiya, may 
be reached from that town by a 
lonely mountain path over the 
Sengen-toge and the Mppara-toge. 



BOUTE 11. 



Feom T6KY5 to Takasaki and 
Karuizawa. 

shimonita. maebashi. isobb. 
m yogi-san. 





Names 




of 
Stations 


Remarks 




TOKYO (Ueno) 




lfm. 


Nippori Jet. 




2i 


Tabata Jet. 




4 


Oji 


(Up trains 


H 


Akabane Jet 


< change for 
( Yokohama. 


n 


Kawaguchi-ma- 
chi 




10 


Warabi 




12| 


Urawa 




16J 


Omiya Jet 


( ForNikkSand 
\ the North. 



m 


Ageo 




24 


Okegawa 




29 
33£ 


Konosu 


(Alight for 
( caves. 


Fukiage 


38 


Kumagai 




45 


Fukaya 




III 


Honjo 




Jimbo-hara 




56£ 


Shiminachi 




60| 


Kuragano 


( Some trains 


63 


TAKASAKI Jet.. 


< change for 
( Maebashi. 


m 


Iizuka 




69^ 


Annaka 




74 


Isobe 




77£ 


Matsuida 


(Alight for 
I Myogi-san. 


81 


Yokogawa 




84 


Kuma-no-taira 




88 


KARUIZAWA 





This line closely follows the 
first stages of the old Nakasendo 
or Central Mountain Highway and 
is flat and uninteresting as far as 
Takasaki ; but in clear weather 
distant views of mountains are 
obtained all along the route. Fuji is 
visible 1. until shut out by the Chi- 
chibu range; to the near r. rises 
Tsukuba with its twin summits, 
then Nantai-zan and the other Nik- 
ko mountains to the extreme r. be- 
hind a lower range ; Akagi-san is to 
be distinguished by its wide grassy 
base, crowned by numerous peaks. 
On approaching Takasaki, the 
square mass of the Haruna group 
comes in sight ahead to the r., while 
on the 1., also ahead, the cliffs of 
Myogi stand out like the walls of 
huge fortress. Smoking Asama is 
a prominent object ahead to the r. 
during the whole journey till the 
very foot of the pass at Yokogawa, 
which it overtops. 

Urawa {Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is 
the capital of the prefecture of 
Saitama, which includes the greater 
part of the province of Musashi. 

Omiya (Inn, Bansho-ro). An 
avenue of 1 mile in length leads 
to Hikawa Jinja, the chief Shintd 
temple of Musashi, situated in 
grounds that have been turned into 
a public garden. The temple is 
said to have been founded in honour 



Myogi-san. 



173 



of Susano-o by Yamatotake (see p. 
86) on his return from subduing the 
barbarous tribes of Eastern Japan. 

Koacsu. For a description of 
the caves near this place, see p. 142. 

Kumagui {Inn, Shimizu-ya) 
carries on a large trade in silk and 
cotton. 

Shimmachi (Inn, Saitama-ya) 
also is a large silk-producing town. 

Takasaki [Inn, Takasaki-kwan, 
at station) was formerly the castle- 
town of a Daimyo, and is still an 
important industrial centre. An 
electric tramway leads hence to 
Shibukawa for Ikao. -A miniature 
railway of 21 miles in length runs 
hence to Tomioka {Inn, Yamato-ya), 
a thriving silk mart, and to Shimo- 
nita (Inn, Sugihara), a tidy little 
town standing among the lower 
spurs of the mountains amidst 
delightful scenery. Iron ore is 
worked here. 

[A railway branches off here to 
Maebashi, 6 miles, where it 
meets the Kyomo line from 
Oyama (see Route 15). Mae- 
bashi ( Inn, Shirai-ya ; Europ. 
restt., Akagi-tei), is the capital 
of the prefecture of Gumma, 
and an emporium of the silk 
trade, one of the best qualities 
of raw silk being named after 
this town. The brick enclosure 
seen r. just before entering 
Maebashi is one of the largest 
convict prisons in Japan, whose 
wall 20 ft. high encloses 11 acres 
of land. The big river crossed 
is the Tonegawa.] 

Iizuka, a station at the W. end 
of Takasaki, some distance from 
the business part of the town. 

Isobe (Inns, Horai-kwan, and 
others), a watering-place with a 
salt spring lying in a wide valley 
not quite l,0l)0 ft. above the level 
of the sea. 

Matsuida [Inn, Sushi-ya) is the 
station to alight at for a visit to the 
wonderful rocky peaks that crown 
Myogi-san. It lies about 1 ri by 
jinrikisha from the small vill. of 



Myogi (Inns, Kambe-ya, Hishi- 
ja), the best place to stay at to 
inspect the rocks. 

The shrine at Myogi is dedicated to the 
memory of the 13th abbot of Enrynkuji, 
a temple on Hiei-zan near Kyoto, wh<>, in 
the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A.D. 8^>8- 
9 50), retired here to mourn over the 
sudden downfall and banishment of his 
pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-?»Iichi7ane. 
After his death, he was deified under 
the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Over two 
centuries ago, afresh access of zeal on the 
part of his devotees was the cause of the 
shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of 
which traces still remain. It is now in 
charge of Shinto priests. 

The temple stands a short 
distance above the village, in the 
midst of a grove of magnificent 
cryptomerias. The Oku-no-in lies 
25 cho further up the mountain, and 
above this point the cliffs are near- 
ly perpendicular. A rocky cave, 
formed by a huge block resting 
in a fissure, contains an image of 
the god. On the summit of one 
of the jutting peaks near the Oku- 
no-in, is the enormous Chinese 
character -fc (dai), "great," whose 
dimensions are stated at 30 ft. by 
20 ft. It is constructed of thin 
bamboos, tied together and cov- 
ered with strips of paper, the 
votive o'^erings of pilgrims, which 
give it the appearance from below 
of being painted white. The sur- 
rounding scenery is weird and 
romantic. From the bosom of a 
gloomy grove rise innumerable 
rocky pinnacles, which gradually 
increase in height around a lofty 
central peak. 

Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-san as a 
system of grand, acute-edged, deeply ser- 
rated dykes, apparently radiating from a 
common centre, whose highest summit is 
about 3,880 ft. in height. Probably it is 
the skeleton of a very old volcano. 

The highest peak of the jagged 
ridge (Haku-un-mn) rising directly 
above the vill. is called Myogi Jinja 
Chojo ; the S. wing is Kinkei-san, 
with Kinto-san lying between the 
two. The Fude-iwa, or " Pen Bock," 



174 



Route 11. — Tokyo to Karuizawa by rail. 



is a conspicuous point belonging 
to Kinkei-san and forming the N.W. 
termination of this dyke. 

The precipitous sides of Myogi 
are clothed in parts with rich vege- 
tation, and towards the end of 
October glow with the crimson 
tints of the maple and other trees. 

Three days may profitably be 
devoted to the various expeditions 
around Myogi-san. First day: — to 
Daikoku-san, the way there leading 
over the pass (Ippon-sugi-toge) be- 
tween Kinkei-san and Kinto-san, 
and taking 1J hr. from the village. 
A natural curiosity passed on the 
way is Ichi no Sekimon, lit., the First 
Stone Gate, which consists of a 
vertical slab of rock some 180 ft. 
high, 240 ft. wide at the base, and 
18 ft. thick, with an arched opening 
90 ft. high and 80 ft. wide. Ni no 
Sekimon, and so on down to Boku 
no Sekimon, making six altogether, 
are similar curiosities. Through the 
last named one must crawl on hands 
and knees. The Hige-suri-iwa, or 
" Beard-shaving Rock," is a slender 
column of volcanic breccia, the last 
10 ft. of the climb up which is 
achieved with the assistance of a 
chain and ladder. From this coign 
of vantage, the lofty peak of Naka 
no take and many other remarkable 
rocks are seen. The ascent of 
Naka-no-take, which, though a 
rough scramble, is well worth 
making, takes about 1 hr. from the 
Hige-suri-iwa. The modern-looking 
edifice near the latter was built for 
the priests, after the burning of the 
two temples in 1872. 

Second day : — to Kinkei-san, 
The way lies along the plain for 1 
hr. to the vill. of Sugawara, whence 
the climb to the top — steep but not 
dangerous — will take 1J hr. more. — 
The Fude-iwa can be climbed in 
about i hr. from the tea-house at 
the base. 

Third day: — to Myogi Jinja 
Ghojo, the most difficult of the three 
expeditions. The only practicable 
path is that leading up to the Dai 



and behind the Takezuru Ghojo. 
7 cho below the Oku-no-in (the 
route up the steep and dangerous 
rock from the Oku-no-in should be 
avoided), thence up over the Hato- 
mune, or " Pigeon's Breast," a rock 
some 20 ft. in height, to scale which 
it is best to take a rope. To this 
succeeds an arduous climb, which 
must be achieved mainly by hauling 
oneself up from tree to tree, - 2 J hrs. 
to the summit. Steep and narrow 
cols and ridges connect the various 



(The loftiest point of the Myogi 
group is called Soma-dake and lies 
midway between Naka-no-take and 
Myogi Jinja Chqj5. It is reached in 
about 1| hr. from the latter peak 
along the ridge, passing, en route, 
the summit of Tengu-yama, from 
which it is separated by a deep gap. 
The vill. of Myogi can be regained 
by way of the above gap, and some 
steep rocks leading to the path be- 
tween the vill. and the Ippon-sugi- 
toge.) 

On leaving Myogi, the railway 
may be rejoined at Matsitida ; or 
else one may walk on for 2 ri to a 
point a little further along the 
Nakasendd highway, near 

Yokogawa {Inn, Ogino-ya, at 
station). After this, the line begins 
to climb the Usui Pass. 

The construction of the 7 miles of rail- 
way leading to Karuizawa over the Usui 
Pass presented great difficulties, which, 
however, were overcome in 1893 by the 
introduction of the Abt system, — cog- 
wheels working on rack-rails. The 
gradient is 1 in 15, and almost the whole 
way a succession of bridges and tunnels, 
the total tunnelling aggregating 2f miles. 
There are 26 tunnels altogether, No. 6 
being the longest. The viaduct over the 
TJsui-gawa has four arches, each of 60 ft. 
opening ; and the height of the rails from 
the valley is 110 ft. The inconvenience 
from heat and smoke in the tunnels was 
obviated by the electrification of the line 
in 1912. 

The tiresomeness of the tunnels 
is relieved by momentary glimpses 
of grandly wooded ravines and of 
the rugged peaks of Myogi-san. 







FOR MURRAY'S HAND300K 



IE TOKYO 



Route 12. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. 



175 



Shin-Karuizawa, the station, 
lies \ hr. by jinrikisha from the 
summer resort called 

Kyu-Karuizawa (see next 
Route). 



EOUTE 12. 



Karuizawa, Asama-yama, and 
Neighbourhood. 

1. earuizawa and neighbourhood. 
2. ascent of asama-yama. 3. 
temple of shakusonji. 4. myo- 
senji. 5. hot speings of bessho. 
6. to shtmontta by the wami- 
toge. 7. feom kaeuizawa to 

KUSATSU. 

1.— Kaeuizawa and Neigh- 
bouehood. 

Karuizawa (Mampei Hotel, 
Karuizawa Hotel, in vill. — 15 min. 
by jinrikisha from the station; 
Mikasa Hotel, 10 min. further. 
Travellers should notify their arrival 
beforehand.), 5 J hrs. from Tokyo by 
the rail way d escribed in the previous 
route, lies in the corner of a grassy 
moor on the W. side of the Usui- 
toge, 780 ft. below the summit. 

The village was in former times prin- 
cipally dependent upon travellers over 
the Nakasendo highway and appears 
to have just escaped ruin, after 
the construction of the railway, by a 
number of the foreign residents of Tokyo 
making it a retreat from the heat of the 
city during July and August. Karui- 
zawa 's lofty situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a 
temperature seldom excessive during the 
daytime, and invariably cool at night. 
The rainfall bears favourable comparison 
with Nikko and other mountain resorts, 
and owing to the porous nature of the 
soil in the vicinity, leaves fewer traces 
behind. The place is nevertheless not 
free from mosquitoes, and the small 
sand-fly called buyu,—au insect which 
inflicts a bite, painless at first, but after- 
wards extremely irritating. Karuizawa 
is specially patronised by missionary 



visitors from all parts of Japan and even 
China. The country round about affords 
good rides and walks both on the grassy 
moor, which abounds with wild flowers, 
and among the hills. Trout are caught 
about Kama-no-hashi, and in the Chiku- 
ma-gawa near Komoro station. — Marked 
changes in the aspect of the hills and 
streams around Karuizawa followed the 
great floods of 1910. The heaviest fall on 
this occasion was 20 inches in fifteen con- 
secutive hours. 

The chief excursion from Karui- 
zawa is the ascent of the volcano 
of Asama-yama (see page 177). 
Others are described below. The 
rocks of Myogi-san (p. 173), and the 
great Buddhist temple of Zenkoji 
at Nagano (Rte. 25) are near at 
hand. Karuizawa also forms a con- 
venient starting-point for more 
arduous trips among the mountains 
described in Routes 26 and 29. 

The walks include 

1. The Usui-to^e, 1J m., on 
the top of which stand a few houses 
and a small temple. There is a 
fine spring— the source of the Usui- 
gawa — a few yards below the houses 
on the far side. An extensive view 
is obtained from a slightly higher 
point, called Miharashi, accessible 
by a path to the r. at the entrance 
to the hamlet. It embraces Asama, 
Haruna, Akagi, the Shirane-san and 
Koma-ga-take of Koshu, Yatsu-ga- 
take, and Tateshina-yama. The 
return can be varied by continuing 
along the ridge and descending by 
the side of the Mampei Hotel. 
Time, 1J hrs. 

On the TTsui-toge is localised the follow- 
ing legend, preserved in the Kojiki : — 

When Yamato-take (see p. 86) was cross- 
ing from Sagami to Kazusa, while on his 
expedition against the barbarous tribes 
who then inhabited that region, he ridi- 
culed the name of Hashiri-mizu [ "Running 
Water") given to the strait, and exclaimed 
that it was no more than an easy jump 
across. The Sea-God, offended at this 
insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya- 
mato-take's ship was unable to advance. 
Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachibana- 
Hirnesaid to him, "I will drown myself in 
thy stead," — and as she plunged into the 
sea, the waves became still. Seven days 
afterwards her comb floated ashore. The 
prince erected a tomb, and placed the 
comb therein. On returning to the capi- 



176 



Route 12. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. 



tal after subduing the tribes, he stopped 
to rest at the top of the Usui Pas*, and 
gazing over the plain, said thrice in a 
melancholy voice: " Azuma wa ya!" 
('•Alas! my wife"), whence the name of 
Azuma by which Eastern Japan is still 
known. 

A very pretty walk oil ri 2 chn, 
(about 1 hr.) from the Usui-tdge 
leads down r. to Kuma-no- fcaira 
station. Return by rail in 20 min. 

2. A view more comprehensive 
still than the preceding is obtained 
from Fujimi-zaka, the E. end of 
the rounded hill to the N. of the 
Usui-tdge, commonly known as the 
"Hog's Back." The way leads just 
below the Usui-toge hamlet 1. 
upwards and wends along the 
hillside for about 1 hr., whence 
after a short dip and rise again we 
come to a spot from which Fuji is 
visible. —Amihari, the peak opposite 
(5,400 ft.), takes another ^ hr. to 
climb, and offers a remarkably 
extensive panorama. — An alterna- 
tive return can be made by keeping 
along the ridge and descending into 
the Kusatsu road, 1J m. beyond 
Kose._ 

3. Odaki. This cascade lies in 
a fold of the hills to the N. E. of the 
Usui-toge. Follow the Yokogawa 
road from the Usui-toge, whence 
sign-posts mark the way both to 
Odaki and to Medaki, another water- 
fall lower down the stream. Time, 
1 hr. from the Usui-tdge, — an easy 
walk except for the final 10 min. 
up the bed of the stream. 

4. Atago-yama, a conical hill 
behind the vill. is ascended in £ hr. 
by two nights of stone steps. Near 
the top is a tiny shrine below some 
curious perpendicular rocks. 

5. Haaare-yama. This iso- 
lated hill may be climbed in 1J hr. 
The way lies just behind the Nagao 
farm-house, at first through a wood 
and then by zigzags 1. to the top. 
Paths lead down to the hamlet of 
Hanareyama and to Kutsukake. 

6. Yag-asaki-yama ("Prospect 
Point"), the sharp peak on the 
S. of the railway, and affording a 
magnificent view of the Myogi 



and more distant ranges. It is a 
climb of less than 1 hr. from the 
hamlet of Yagasaki, near the top 
tunnel. The descent may be made 
by a path along the ridge leading to 
the Kamado-iwa a remarkable rock 
re-named "Pulpit Rock" by the 
foreign visitors. 

7. Iriyama-tog-e, 1 hr. The 
path skirts the moor at the base of 
Yagasaki-yama, and below the 
" Pulpit Rock." At the foot of the 
pass stand two houses known as 
Sakai. The top affords the finest 
view obtainable of the valley lead- 
ing towards Myogi-san, and, look- 
ing backwards, of the wide stretch 
of moorland at the base of Asama- 
yama. 

8. Wami-toge and Hosoku- 
iwa. From Sakai, just mentioned 
(1 hr.), the path keeps to the r., and 
in f hr. more, reaches the highway 
over the Wami-toge. The ascent 
is easy, and the eye is delighted by a 
splendid amphitheatre of mountains. 
Descending a short distance on 
the opposite side, a path 1. leads in 
30 min. to the hamlet of Ongawa, 
situated at the base of the Rb- 
soku-iwa, aptly re-named by for- 
eigners the Cathedral Rocks, 
and remarkable for the petrified 
wood found in the neighbourhood. 
The climb —not easy for ladies —to 
the top of the S.E. or higher of the 
two rocky masses is made from 
Shimo- Ongawa, and is a stiff pull 
of 1 hr. At two points in the upper 
part, chains help the climber to 
surmount the clefts and buttresses. 
The rocky wall on the Ongawa side 
forms a sheer precipice of about 
650 ft., recalling those of adjacent 
Myogi-san. Instead of returning 
the way one came, a pleasant round 
may be made by taking a tortuous 
hill path leading down deep into 
the Iriyama valley, from which 
Karuizawa may be regained by the 
Iriyama-toge. Or else, by pursuing 
a downward course from Ongawa, 
one may reach the hamlet of 
Iriyama, at the lower end of the 
valley. From this point it is a 



Ascent of Asama-yama, 



177 



little over 1 ri to Yokogawa, whence 
train. In any case, the excursion 
will occupy a day. 

9. Kose, 1 hr. The way leads 
by the Mikasa Hotel, soon passing 
over more elevated ground and 
through stretches of forest. Kose is 
a tiny hamlet in a fold of the hills, 
but possesses a commodious inn 
with natural lukewarm baths. — An 
alternative way back may be taken 
by following the path to the r. soon 
after ascending the hill from Kose. 
From the ridge there is a fine 
panorama of mountains; thence 
down to the dip by Hanare-yama, 
and past the Nagao farm-house to 
Karuizawa. Time from Kose, 1} hr. 

10. Kama-no-hashi, 1 hr. walk 
on the flat to a pretty spot, where 
the stream rushes in a series of 
rapids under a suspension bridge. 
The way leads along the Nakasendd, 
to the railway, which it crosses, and 
passing through the hamlet of Torii- 
hara, turns at once to the 1., and 
soon reaches the river. A pleasant 
way back via the hamlet of Shio- 
zawa takes | hr. longer. Cross the 
bridge and follow the path by the 
side of Kazakoshi-yama marked by 
small images of Jizd. Turn to the 
1. at a point just below some high 
crags ; the plain of Karuizawa soon 
comes in sight, and, following the 
telegraph poles, in 10 min. (near a 
torii) the path strikes straight 1. 
across the flower-strewn plain and 
through the hamlet mentioned 
above. 

2. — Asama-yama. 

Asama-yama (8,130 ft.) is not 
only (with the possible exception of 
Aso-san) the largest active volcano 
in Japan, but the most accessible. 
The excursion to the summit and 
back may be made from Karuizawa 
in one day ; or else, by starting at 
10 p.m., one may be at the top for 
sunrise. 

The last great eruption occurred in 
1783, when a stream of lava destroyed 
a primeval forest of considerable extent, 



together -with several villages on the N. 
side. Most eruptions have produced 
mere showers of ashes ; hut stones have 
also been ejected during the last eighteen 
years. Eruptions occurred in 1.JU9-11. 
In fact, the crater is always more or less 
active. At the foot of the steep cone the- 
subterranean disturbance can be distinct- 
ly heard, and the sulphureous exhala- 
tions near the summit often make this 
part of the ascent oppressive. Snow 
may be found about here under a thin 
layer of ash even in August. 

The ascent by the Wdknsare no 

Chaya — a rest-house on the old road 
to Kusatsu — is the one usuually 
preferred, and is the least fatiguing. 
There is another rest-house about 1 
mile on this side of the Wakasare. 
The best plan is to take horses at 
Karuizawa, where foreign saddles 
may be procured, ride via the vill. 
of Kutsukake to Ko-Asama* — the 
parasitic cone at the base of the 
mountain, — 2J hrs., and walk up by 
the path which diverges 1. some 20 
cho before reaching "Wakasare-no- 
Chaya. The path thither via Kose 
(see above) is 2 m. longer. The 
climb up from Wakasare is steep, 
but the path a fairly solid one of 
cinders. The time taken to the lip 
of the crater is about 2 A hrs. from 
the place where riders dismount. 

The crater is circular, some f 
m. in circumference, with sides 
perpendicular, honeycombed, and 
burnt to a red hue, while sulphu- 
rous steam wells up from several 
large vents in the broken floor, 600 
to 700 ft. below, and from numerous 
crevices in the walls. On the 
S. side of the mountain rise two 
precipitous rocky ramparts, separ- 
ated by a considerable interval, 
the outer one being lower and 
mostly covered with vegetation. 
They are the remains of two 
successive concentric craters, the 
existing cone being the third 
and most recent. The nearer one 
is quite bare, and columnar in 
structure at the centre. The side 
of the cone is strewn with large 
rough fragments of loose lava, and 
unfathomable rifts extend for the 
greater part of the way down to 



178 



Route 12. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. 



its base. Persons with weak heads 
should beware of the path across 
the stony and almost precipitous 
slope on the E. side between the 
two craters. The view from the 
summit embraces a large tract of 
country: — to the N., the whole of 
the Kotsuke mountains, with the 
Haruna group and Akagi-san; the 
Nikko range and the E. range divid- 
ing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the sea 
far away in the distance ; next the 
Koshu. mountains on the S., with 
Fuji peering over them ; conical 
Yatsu-ga-take and the adjacent 
summits of Koshu; and then on 
the W., the huge range that forms 
the boundary between Shinshu and 
Hida. The descent to the Waka- 
sare-no-Ohaya takes 1\ hr. 

Another way up, also occupying 
about 5$ hrs., is from Oiwake {Inn, 
Nakamura-ya), a vill., 2 ri 14 cho 
from Karuizawa. On leaving Oi- 
wake the path ascends gently 
through sloping moorland; then 
the acclivity becomes greater, and 
gritty ash is reached. At an eleva- 
tion of 1,145 ft. above Oiwake 
is a cascade hidden among the 
trees that border a deep gorge. Its 
height is about 18 ft.; the red 
colour of the water and of the 
underlying rock — volcanic breccia 
covered with a red crust—gives 
it a strange appearance. At a 
height of 3,225 ft. above Oiwake, 
all vegetation ceases. For 1,6U0 ft. 
more, the path proceeds up a steep 
ascent of loose ash to the edge of 
the outer ridge, which from the vill. 
below appears to be the summit, 
though not really so. The path 
then descends, and crosses over to 
the base of the present cone, which 
is more easily climbed. 

The ascent can be even more 
easily made from Komoro, on 
the Karuizawa— Naoetsu railway, 
whence a good path leads up 
to within 1 hr. of the crater. There 
are two rest-houses on the way, 
much of which is practicable for 
horses and leads under shade. Only 
the last £ hr. of the ascent is 



arduous and over barren ground. 
The distances are : from Komoro to 
the first rest-house, 2 ri 30 cho ; 
thence to the second rest-house, 31 
cho ; and to the top 18 cho. 

One of the most interesting ex- 
cursions from Karuizawa is to the 
Lava Stream of 1783 ( Oshi-dashi- 
gawara) referred to in the small 
type on p. 177. Some travellers 
pressed for time combine this with 
the ascent of the mountain, doing 
both in one day; but this is too 
fatiguing. The best way from 
Karuizawa is via Kose, from which 
hamlet the path leads first through 
a lovely stretch of forest to a stream, 
crossed by a log bridge, and then 
over a high grassy upland direct to 
the Wakasare-no-chaya ; time 3 hrs. 
It is a further walk of 1 hr. by the 
dusty, lava-strewn path which 
branches off immediately behind 
the rest-house to the lava stream. 
The whole distance is estimated at 
11 miles. The huge blackish grey 
blocks lie piled up in extraordinary 
confusion to a height of from 20 to 
25 ft. Time has covered them with 
a coating of lichen, and owing to 
surface disintegration they break 
away easily in parts, so as to make 
scrambling over them difficult. 
The guide or coolies will obtain ice 
and water from beneath the blocks 
of lava near the halting place. 

3. — Shakusonji. 

The train takes f hr. from Karui- 
zawa to Komoro, whence 1 hr. 
walk or jinrikisha most of the 
way, to the temple of Shakusonji, 
commonly known as Nunobiki 
no Kwannon, which lies perched 
on the side of one of the high 
bluffs that overlook the River 
Ohikuma. It is a romantic spot, 
approached by a narrow gorge lead- 
ing from the river bank. The 
priests have tunnelled through the 
rocks in several places, making 
passages which lead to the various 
shrines and form a continuous 
corkscrew path round the perpen- 



Excursions from Karuizawa. 



179 



dicular cliff. The white-painted hut 
close by the bell-tower on the sum- 
mit commands superb views of 
the Asama range and the valley of 
the Chikuma-gawa. The monastery 
belongs to the Tendai sect of 
Buddhists. 



4. — NlSHI-MAKI MUEATA. 

[My5sknji.]. 

This is a 2 days' excursion to the 
dairy farm belonging to Kunitaro 
Kozu, about 5 ri to the S. of Karui- 
zawa and just across the border of 
Kotsuke. Horses and a guide ad- 
visable, the way leading first across 
the moor by Narusawa and Mato- 
ri-gaya, and crossing two minor 
passes, down to Takadate. Soon 
after leaving the latter hamlet, a 
striking columnar rock called Ippon- 
iwa, comes in sight whose base the 
path skirts 1. and gently ascends to 
Nishi-maki Murata, where the 
farm lies among grassy hills. It 
may also be reached by turning W. 
at Maiori-gaya and touching Kami- 
Hochi. Good accommodation is 
provided by the manager, who 
should be remunerated, as no 
charge is made. Fine Jersey cattle 
are kept for the making of butter. 

The return may be varied by 
taking a path across the pasture 
land to Mitsui-mura and down the 
valley in 2. J- hrs. to the village of 
Kbsaka. Near here stands Myo- 
senji, a temple of the Tendai sect, 
commonly known as Akaru-san-no- 
Kwannon, at the foot of splendid 
cliffs. A road winds up for 8 chb 
through fine cryptomerias and other 
trees to the Oku-no-in ; but the best 
view of the valley and its castel- 
lated cliffs is obtained from a rocky 
promontory to be reached by a 
further short climb up a narrow 
defile. From Kosaka it is another 
2\ hrs. via Iwamurata on the Naka- 
sendo, where basha and jinrikisha 
are available, to Miyoda station, 
whence rail (J hr.,) to Karuizawa. 



5. — Bessho. 

Summer residents at Karuizawa, 
desirous of getting a peep of life 
at a typical old-fashioned bathing 
resort, might visit Bessho, a vill. 
lying among pine-clad hills, at the 
foot of Ogami-dake, 3 ri by basha to 
the W. of Ueda station (1J hr. by 
train). The best inn, Kashiwa-ya, 
a three-storied building which ad- 
joins a small but pretty temple 
sacred to Kwannon, sprawls up and 
down the hillside, commanding a 
lovely view. Another temple, with 
a massive thatched roof, called 
Anrakuji f boasts a pagoda of the 
unusual number of four storeys, 
which is 700 years old. A festival 
takes place at the summit of Ogami- 
dake every 15th July, when each 
house in the vill. has to send a 
representative, bearing some gar- 
ment as an offering to the god. 
The neighbourhood of Bessho af- 
fords many pretty walks, among 
others, one to the Hofukuji-toge, 
(4,400 ft. high), 2J hrs., on the old 
highway between Ueda and Matsu- 
moto. There is little view from the 
summit in the direction of Matsu- 
moto, but on looking backwards, a 
fine panorama of mountains. 



6. — oveb the wami-toge to 
Shimonita. 

This expedition is done either 
on horseback or on foot as far 
as Shimonita, and the return 
by train via Takasaki ; 7 J hours 
will be a good allowance for catch- 
ing the last train. The way leads 
over the Wami-toge (p. 176), and 
down a narrow, picturesque valley 
to Hatsudoya and Motojuku, after 
which jinrikishas may be availed of. 
The whole walk is lovely, the valley 
only beginning to open out a little 
about Motojuku, while Shimonita 
stands, so to say, at its mouth. 
For further notice of Shimonita, see 
p. 173. 



180 Route 13. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



The distances are approximately 
as follows : — 

KAKUIZAWAto ffi Cho- M. 

Top of Wami-toge.. 2 18 6 

Hatsudoya 28 2 

Motojuku 1 26 4} 

SHIMONITA 2 27 6| 

Total 7 27 19 



7. — From Kabtjizawa to 
Kusatsu. 

This is a day's journey of 12 ri 
approximately, just practicable for 
jinrikishas ; three men may be 
necessary. Horses with foreign 
saddles are also obtainable at Ka- 
ruizawa. The path to Kusatsu 
coincides with that given for Asama 
(p. 177 as far as Wakasare, whence 
on to the poor vill. of Okuwa, 1| ri; 
the way lies through park-like 
country, part of which is utilised for 
a horse-breeding farm owned by 
the Imperial Household. The next 
stage takes one in about 1 hr. 
down to the bed of the Agatsuma- 
gawa, which is crossed on a sus- 
pension bridge of about 180 ft. 
span, made of telegraph wire. 
From the bridge a fine waterfall is 
seen 1. up the stream. On the far 
side stands the vill. of Haneo. The 
remainder of the way is mostly a 
gradual ascent through woods and 
fields, commanding at intervals 
splendid views of the surrounding 
mountains. For Kusatsu, see p. 184. 



ROUTE 13. 



Ikao, Kusatsu, and 
Neighbourhood. 

1. ikao. 2. walks and excubsions 
from ikao i haeuna, etc. 3. ku- 
satsu. 4. walks in the neigh- 
bourhood op kusatsu : ascent of 
shirane-san. 5. from kusatsu 
to nagano over the shibu-t5ge 

OR TORII-t5gE. 6. FROM KUSATSU 

to numata. 

I.—Ikao. 

Ikao is a short day's journey 
from T6ky5 (Ueno station). The 
first stage is by rail to Takasaki in 
3} hrs., whence electric tram via 
Shibukawa in 2 J hrs. Electric tram 
from Maebashi also via Shibukawa 
in about the same time. In sum- 
mer time a private car is almost a 
necessity. 

Hotel.- Ikao Hotel, Europ. style. 
There are also the Budayu, Chigira, 
and other good inns in Japanese 
style. 

Ikao, one of the best summer 
resorts in Japan, is built on ter- 
races along the N. E. slope of 
Haruna-san, at an elevation varying 
from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The pictur- 
esque main street, which divides the 
vill. into an eastern and a western 
part, consists of one nearly con- 
tinuous steep flight of steps. The 
houses W. of the steps border on a 
deep ravine called Yusawa, through 
which a road has been made for the 
benefit of summer visitors. Ikao 
enjoys the advantage of cool nights, 
few mosquitoes, and an unusually 
beautiful situation, which offers 
from nearly every house a grand 
view of the valleys of the Agatsuma- 
gawa and Tonegawa, and of the 
high mountain-ranges on the border 
of the great plain in which Tokyo 
is situated. From few places can 
the Nikko mountains be seen to 
such advantage, while conspicuous 



Walks and Excursions from Ikao. 



181 



in the forground rise the three 
peaks of Onoko-yama. 

Xo summer resort in Japan can 
show such a wealth of wild-flowers. 
Dining July and August, the lilium 
auratum, the tiger-lily and several 
other lilies, the iris in many col- 
ours, three species of clematis, 
three species of spirea, the hy- 
drangea, the funkia, asters, cam- 
panulas, and numerous others car- 
pet the ground. The rare fern 
Aspidium tripteron, too, grows abun- 
dantly close to the stream below 
Benten-daki. Earlier, especially in 
May, this whole country-side re- 
sounds with the song of birds, — 
nightingales and cuckoos in the 
woods, larks on the open moorland. 
Ikao is famous for its mineral 
springs, which have a temperature 
of 113° F., and which contain a 
small amount of iron and sulphate 
of soda. They have been known 
since prehistoric times, and the 
bath-houses, pouring out clouds of 
steam form a striking feature of 
the precipitous Tillage street. The 
Japanese use the hot baths several 
times daily. 



2. — Walks axd Excursions 
feom Ikao. 

1. Along the Yusawa ravine to 
Yumoto, about h m., nearly level 
(yu-moto means lit., " the Source of 
the Hot Water ") ; return by the Yu- 
sawa ravine road, which lengthens 
the walk a little. Seats are erected 
for the accommodation of visitors, 
who resort there to drink of the 
mineral spring >.nomi-yu). The 
water, which at its source is quite 
clear, has a slightly inky taste, but 
it has little more effect than pure 
hot water. On being exposed to 
the air the carbonic acid evaporates, 
and part of the iron which the 
water contains is precipitated as a 
yellowish mass. This covers the 
bed of the river and the bottom of 
the aqueduct, and gives to the" 
water in the baths a thick, dis- 



coloured appearance. The people, 
who have great faith in the strength- 
ening effects of this precipitated 
iron salt, place large strips of cotton 
cloth in the stream. When the 
cloth has assumed a deep yellow 
colour, it is taken out, dried, and 
used as a belt. Gowns thus dyed 
(yu-aka-zome) are offered for sale, 
and to wear one of these for twelve 
hours is declared to be equal to 
a whole course of baths. The mine- 
ral water is led down to the inns 
in bamboo pipes. 

2. Up Kompira-saii, | hr. climb 
under shade. Though of no great 
height, the top commands an ex- 
tensive view, stretching from Shi- 
rane-san near Kusatsu to Tsukuba- 
san in Hitachi, and including the 
Mikuni and Nikko ranges, Akagi- 
san, and the valley of the Tone- 
gawa. 

3. Up to Mushi-yu, (lit. "Va- 
pour Bath"), so called from the 
sulphurous gases which here ema- 
nate from the ground, where 
huts have been erected for the 
treatment of rheumatic patients : — 
time, by the Haruna road, f hr. — 
A longer way, — somewhat over 1 hr., 
— but offering more extensive views, 
is up the hill by a zigzag path 
behind the village temple {Ikao 
Jinja). After J hr. it joins the 
path from Kompira-san, whence 
the rest of the way leads by the 
cliffs overlooking the valleys al- 
ready mentioned, and across the 
open moorland. — The naked people 
sometimes standing about at Mushi- 
yu make this place unsightly. 
Among the rocks by the side of 
the path just below Mushi-yu are a 
number of holes from which cold 
air issues, seeming to testify to the 
presence of ice within. A notice 
board marks the largest of these 
holes. 

4. To Name-no-taki (" the Seven- 
fold Cascade"), \ hr. down through 
a wood; thence for f- hr., also 
mostly up and down through the 
wood, to Beuten-daki, a pretty 
fall of the stream that flows from 



^mA© m® wusmm 







182 Route 13. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



Lake Haruna. The return may be 
varied by taking either of the walks 
describecUmder No. 5. 

5. To Gdaki, a cascade below 
Benten-daki, 40 min. The path 
diverges at Nanae-no-taki down the 
valley r. to the vill. of Yunakago, 
where there is a fine avenue of 
ancient cryptomerias leading to a 
deserted shrine; thence 1. through 
the wood. The walk may be leng- 
thened by following the path along 
the r. bank of the stream, which 
ultimately joins the main Benten- 
daki path, 15 min. distant from that 
fall.— The above walk being mostly 
under trees, another may be taken 
from Yunakago to Benten-daki, 
which discloses charming views in 
every direction. The road leads 
from Yunakago over the deep tor- 
rent bed to the 1. up to the hamlet 
of Okazaki Jinja, whence a good 
path 1. takes one round to Benten- 
daki, 1J hr. from Jkao. About half- 
way it forks ; keep to the 1. branch 
skirting the stream, which is cross- 
ed just above the fall. 

6. A long but delightful walk may 
be taken via the N. end of Lake 
Haruna to Benten-daki, by fol- 
lowing the stream which forms the 
falls (about 1J hr. from the lake to 
the fall). In spring there is a 
wealth of flowering trees, ground 
orchids, and wild wistarias. 

7. Mizusawa no Kwannon, 
a Buddhist temple in which, though 
dedicated to Kwannon, the chief 
interest is afforded by six bronze 
images of Jizo, life-size, on a 
revolving case. The way there 
leads for a few cho down the Shibu- 
kawa road, then diverging r. through 
the wood at the foot of Sengen- 
yama ; time to the temple, 50 min. 
One can proceed on from Mizusawa, 
a further distance of 1 hr. to the lofty 
Waterfall of Funao, in a rocky fold 
of a mountain of the same name. 
Take the path r. at the bottom of 
the vill. until it comes to the river 
bed, where a track diverges abruptly 
over the hillside to the r. This 
leads in 20 min. to the side of a 



ravine. To the 1. a fine vista of the 
Tonegawa valley opens out ; to the 
r., the ravine runs down to an angle 
in the hills where a good, though 
somewhat distant, view of the 
waterfall appears. The final rough 
scramble up the river-bed to the 
foot of the fall is hardly worth do- 
ing. The return may be made by 
a path over the hills, that leads 
between Sengen-yama r. and 
Futatsu-dake 1., — J hr. This 
would be a good occasion for 
ascending Sengen-yama, the steep 
path up which is well-defined. 

8. Garameki boasts a tepid 
mineral spring and two tea-houses. 
At the top of the zigzag immediate- 
ly behind Mushi-yu the path 
divides : — r. to Soma, 1. to Gara- 
meki lying in a deep gorge, 1J 
hr. from Mushi-yu. Allow 3 hrs. 
for return by the horse-track, which 
passes by the Tsurushima-iwa into 
the Haruna plain. 

9. Haruna,— 6J m., of which 4J 
m. to the lake. Though the first 
part of it is rough, this is by far 
the prettiest walking expedition 
at Ikao. " Chairs " may, however, 
be taken. 

Lake Haruna, which apparently 
occupies one corner of an extinct 
crater, has been stocked with 
salmon-trout and carp. On its 
border are several tea-houses (Haru- 
na Lake Hotel, Europ. style), where 
one may lunch or spend the night. 
The mass of rocks resembling a 
tower at the N. W. end is called 
Suzuri-iwa, and can be easily climb- 
ed from the back. From the lake 
it is a short and easy ascent to the 
top of a pass called Tenjin-toge, 
1,000 ft. above Ikao, commanding a 
fine view. From the Tenjin-toge 
the path descends a luxuriantly 
wooded glen to the ancient Temple 
of Haruna, situated amongst preci- 
pitous and overhanging volcanic 
rocks, in a grove of lofty crypto- 
merias. Over the principal building, 
which is decorated with excellent 
wood-carvings (especially two dra- 
gons twined round the side beams 



Excursions from Ikao. 



183 



of the porch), hangs a huge rock 
supported on a slender base, which 
seems every moment to threaten 
the temple with destruction. The 
whole site is fantastically beautiful. 

The date of the original foundation of 
the temple of Haruna is unknown. The 
earliest records date back only five cen- 
turies, when the Yamabushi (a sect of 
Buddhist exorcisers and fortune-tellers), 
who then had possession of the place, 
were involved in the ruin of Nitta Yoshi- 
sada fsee p. 81), with whom they had sided 
in the civil wars of the time. More 
lately it came under the jurisdiction of 
the Imperial Prince-abbot of Ueno. The 
present main shrine was erected about 
A.D. 1725, and since the revolution of 
1868 it has been re-dedicated to the 
Shinto deities Ho-musubi the Grod of 
Fire, and Haniyasu-Hime the Goddess of 
Earth. 

A short way below the temple 
is a remarkable formation of rock 
like a flying buttress, called Eura- 
kake-iwa. A few minutes further 
on stands the village, where reside 
the families of the priests ; for even 
in old times, a local exception 
existed from the Buddhist rule of 
celibacy. Haruna-machi, as the 
vill. is called, possesses good 
country inns. 

10. Futatsu-dake, Soma- 
yama, and Haruna Fuji. These 
three hills all lie on the way to 
Lake Haruna. The way up Futatsu- 
dake diverges 1. J hr. out of Ikao, 
where a post marks 5 J cho to the 
summit. From this post, 25 min. 
more take one to the spot where 
the way to Sbma-yama branches off 
1. from the Haruna road, close to the 
second tea-house. From here it is 
20 min. along the base, and 25 
min. more up an arete to the top, 
chains being fixed in the rock at 
the two steepest places to assist 
climbers, though there is no danger. 

The Haruna Fuji lies to the r. of 
the road, close to the lake, its steep 
ascent through grass and shrubs 
occupying f hr. from the place 
where the path diverges. The 
view from these various heights 
is very extensive, particularly that 
from the shrine on the summit of 



Soma, 4,850 ft. above sea-level, 
and 2.150 ft, above Ikao. The 
summit of Fuji appears over the 
Chichibu mountains nearly due S. 
To the W. of it are seen the Koshu 
Shirane, the Koma-ga-take of 
Koshu and Shinshu seemingly in 
close proximity, then Yatsu-ga-take, 
Ontake about W. S. W., Asama- 
yama a little to the S. of W., 
Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the 
Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of 
the Hida-Shinshu range. Eastwards 
rise Tsukuba-san and the Shirane 
of Nikko, with Kurobi-yama — the 
highest peak of Akagi-san — half-way 
between them. The town of Mae- 
bashi is visible to the E. S. E., with 
the Tonegawa half encircling it 
before pursuing its course through 
the plain. 

Soma may also be ascended from 
Mushi-yu; but on that side the 
climb is more precipitous, eleven 
chains in rapid succession and one 
iron ladder helping the climber on 
the steep portion just below the 
summit. Pilgrims sometimes 
prefer it for that very reason, as 
gaining for them greater religious 
merit. —Another way up, from the 
direction of Takasaki, joins the 
Mushi-yu ascent shortly before the 
final climb. It has seven chains 
and an iron ladder about 30 ft. 
long. The ascent of Soma from 
the Haruna side, with descent on 
the Mushi-yu side, occupies alto- 
gether 4 hrs. from Ikao. 

As a variety in the day's work, 
good walkers might combine one 
of these hills with Excursion No. 9 
(Haruna), or with No. 6 (Benten- 
daki). 

11. Sengen-yama. This moun- 
tain, which assumes so many forms 
as seen from different parts of 
the plain, can be ascended from 
Ikao via Mushi-yu in 1J hr. The 
path is steep, and the sides slope 
away precipitously from the top, 
which is a long knife-like ridge. 
See also end of No. 7. 

12. Akagi-san is the collective 
name of a circular range of peaks, 



184 Route 13. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



surrounding the basin of an old 
crater, now a lake, about 2§ m. in 
circumference. The mountain may 
be ascended from various points, 
but is recommended as a 2 days' ex- 
pedition from Ikao. The first stage 
takes one by jinrikisha to Shibu- 
kawa, where the Tonegawa is cross- 
ed by ferry to Hassaki. Horses, 
ordered beforehand, should here be 
in waiting for the next stage of 3 
hrs., chiefly over shadeless moorland 
which leads to a ridge surrounded 
by pretty peaks. A short distance 
further, at a cairn marking the 
junction of several paths, begins 
the only stifi: portion of the ascent, 
the Ubago-tbge, from the top of 
which, in about 1 hr., the path 
descends into the park-like 
country on the S. side of the lake 
(Onuma), J hr. more. The lake is 
enclosed by small hills, whose lower 
slopes are covered with woods con- 
sisting principally of birch, oak, 
and alder. From its E. end rise 
the highest of the peaks,— Kurobi- 
san 6,300 ft., and Jizb-san, 5,600 ft., 
easy climbs of 30 chb and 12 chb 
respectively, affording magnificent 
panoramic views: — Fuji S. S. W., 
Kaigane-san (part of the Koshu 
Shirane) S.W., the numerous peaks 
of Yatsu-ga-take with Tateshina 
nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama due 
W., and the Kusatsu Shirane about 
W. N. W. Nearly due N. rises 
Hodaka-san, one of the loftiest 
peaks in Kotsuke, easily recognised 
by its double top. A large hut 
close by the temple {Daidb), on the 
margin of the lake, affords rough 
shelter for the night to man and 
beast. The god of Akagi is wor- 
shipped under the form of a two- 
edged sword. Twenty min. walk 
beyond the temple lies a much 
smaller tarn [Konuma). 

For those wishing to take Akagi- 
san on the way from Nikko to Ikao 
or Maebashi, the path leading up 
the Torii-toge from Mlzunuma on 
the River Watarase (see Rte. 18), 
and the descent by the path 
described above, is recommended. 



13. The hot-springs of Shim a lie 
nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that a trip 
there involves staying the night. 
Shima may most conveniently be 
taken on the way to Kusatsu, the 
road being the same as far as 20 
chb past Nakanojo. Jinrikishas 
are available, but it is occasion- 
ally necessary to alight. Shima 
includes two hamlets, called respec- 
tively Yamaguchi Onsen and Arai- 
yu, 8 chb distant from each other; 
the latter {Inns, Sekizen, and Ta- 
mura Mosaburo) is the better. The 
hamlet is picturesquely situated 
close to the river, on whose bank 
the springs which supply the baths 
gush forth. Travellers not return- 
ing to Ikao, but going on to Kusa- 
tsu, need not pass again through 
Nakanojo, as there is a short-cut 
from a place called Kimino. It is, 
however, scarcely passable for jin- 
rikishas. 

14. To Myogi-san. It is a long 
day's walk via Haruna-san to 
Matsuida on the Takasaki-Karui- 
zawa Railway, about 9 ri, whence 
1 ri more to the vill. of Myogi (see 
p. 173). 

3.— Kusatsu. 

The favourite way from Ikao to 
this place leads down over open 
country to the Hakojima ferry, and 
thence along the main road through 
Nakanojd and Nagano-hara, after 
which by a steeper gradient to the 
uplands of Kusatsu. 

Itinerary. 

IKAO to:— Bi Cho M. 

Hakojima 2 13 5f 

Murakami 18 1\ 

Nakanojo 2 — 5 

Haramachi 20 1 J- 

Iwashita 2 4 5 \ 

Kawara-yu 1 28 4£ 

Nagano-hara 1 24 4 

KUSATSU 3 4 7J 

Total ......14 3 34} 



Kusatsu. 



185 



Jinrikishas with two or three meD 
are practicable the whole way. 
Most persons will prefer to walk 
the steeper and more picturesque 
stages at either end, but may 
advantageously take basha along 
the flat from Murakami to Naka- 
nojo. The whole trip makes an 
extremely long day. Should a 
break be found necessary, good 
accommodation may be had at 
Xakariojo (Inn, Nabe-ya), or else 
at Kaicara-yu (Inn, Hagiwara). 
The scenery is delightful, the 
way from Hakojima ferry leading 
up the beautiful valley of the 
Agatsuma-gawa. Beyond Hara- 
machi, it grows somewhat tamer; 
but about Kawara-yu the gorge 
narrows, mountains rise precipi- 
tously, and the roadway cut out of 
the solid rock winds hundreds of 
feet above the roaring stream. 
Here hot-springs issue from a place 
high up on the river bank. 

An alternative road from Ikao to 
Kusatsu branches off r. at Nakano- 
jo, through the small bathing vill. 
of Sawatari (Inn, Shin-Kano-ya) and 
over the Kuresaka-toge. Jinrikishas 
practicable; but the hilly portions 
will be found uncomfortable. Dis- 
tance to Sawatari, 7 ri, 21 chb, 
whence to Kusatsu, 5 ri, 9 cho more. 
Instead of going via Murakami and 
Nakanojo, one may take the Haruna 
Lake_route, and by turning to the 
1. at Odo, join the Haramachi route 
a little beyond Kawara-yu. 

But the favourite way of reaching 
Kusatsu for those who do not wish 
to make any stay en route is that 
described under Karuizawa (see 
p. 180). 

Kusatsu (Inn, Shirane Hotel, 
Europ. style, with private baths ; 
Yamamoto-kwan), :i,800 ft. above 
sea-level, whose trim, cleanly ap- 
pearance recalls that of a village in 
the Tyrol, is the coolest of Japan's 
summer resorts. The centre of the 
village square is occupied by springs 
of boiling water, led in troughs 
to collect the sulphur. Baths, pub- 



lic and private, are very numerous. 
Visitors who, attracted by these 
considerations, may think of spend- 
ing any time here, should however 
bear in mind that the mineral 
waters are specially efficacious — 
not only in rheumatism, and, as 
discovered by Dr. E. Baelz, in 
gout — but in syphilis, leprosy, and 
other loathsome diseases, and that 
the first eifect of the free sulphuric 
acid in the water is to bring out 
sores on the tender parts of the 
body. The chief constituents of the 
Kusatsu springs are mineral acids, 
sulphur, chlorine, iron, and alum. 
The temperature of the springs is 
extremely high, ranging from 100° 
to 160° Fahrenheit, while the baths 
are generally 113° to 128°. The 
chief public bath, called Netsu-no- 
yu, has three divisions of increasing 
grades of temperature. 

Even the Japanese, inured as they are 
to scalding water, find their courage fail 
them ; and the invalids are therefore 
taken to bathe in squads under a semi- 
military discipline, to which they volun- 
tarily submit. This system is known as 
Jikan-yu, or "time bath," because the 
hours are fixed. Soon after daylight a 
horn is blown and the bathers assemble, 
dressed in white cotton tunics and 
drawers, as many as can find room taking 
their first daily bath. They begin by 
beating the water with boards in order to 
cool it somewhat, — a curious scene; and 
then most disrobe, while the greatest 
sufferers swathe themselves in white 
cotton. Each bather is provided with a 
wooden dipper, and the " bath-master " 
directs the patients to pour 250 dippers 
of water over their heads to prevent 
congestion. Attendants are on the 

watch, as fainting fits sometimes occur. 
To keep up their courage, a kind of 
chant takes place between the bathers 
and their leader on entering and while 
sitting in the bath,— a trial which, 
though lasting only from fy to 4 minutes, 
seems an eternity to their festering 
bodies. After the lapse of about one 
minute, the bath-master cries out, and 
the others all answer with a hoarse shout. 
After a little he cries out, "Three 
minutes more ! " After another short 
interval, "Two minutes more!" then 
" One minute more I " the chorus answer- 
ing each time. At last the leader cries 
" Finished ! " whereupon the whole mass 
of bodies rise from the water with an 
alacrity which he who has witnessed 
their slow, painful entry into the place 



186 Boute 13. — l/cao f Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 



of torture would scarcely credit. One 
more bath is taken during the forenoon 
and three in the afternoon, making five 
altogether, at each of which the same 
routine is observed. The usual Kusatsu 
course includes 12J baths, spread over five 
or six weeks. Most patients then proceed 
for the "after-cure" to Sawatari, oriO 
cho (12| m.) distant, where the waters 
have a softening effect on the skin, and 
quickly alleviate the terrible irritation. 
Some go to Shibu (see next page) instead. 
The lepers' bath (Goza-no-yu) has no fixed 
hours. It stands in the lower part of the 
village, which forms a separate leper 
quarter. 

Kusatsu seems to have been first heard 
of as one of the villages belonging to the 
great chieftain, Takeda Shingen, in the 
16th century ; but its importance dates 
only from about A.D. 1700, when the 
springs were enclosed under straw huts. 
The inhabitants mostly bathe twice a 
day, in a temperature of 110°, but in 
winter three or four times to keep warm, 
and they experience no bad effects. Skin 
diseases are said to be unknown among 
them. 



4. — Walks in the Nexghboue- 
hood of Kusatsu. 



1. To Sai-no-Kawara, 8 cho. 
The meaning of the name Sai-no- 
Kawara is " the Kiver-bed of Souls." 
On its numerous rocks and 
boulders, small stones have been 
piled up by visitors as offerings to 
dead children (see p. 47). Among 
these rocks are some called yurugi- 
ishi, which, notwithstanding their 
being huge boulders, are so nicely 
balanced that they can be moved 
by the hand. Hot yellow streams of 
sulphur water, and green copper 
streams flow into the river bed. 
Twelve cho further on over the 
moor is Kori-dani, so called from 
the frozen snow to be found there 
even in the dog-days. 

2. To the solfatara of Sessho- 
gawara, on the slope of Moto- 
Shirane, about 1 ri. 

3. Yia Suwa-no-jinja, Higane, 
Kiyozuka, and Hikmuma, to 
Hanashiki near Iriyama, with 
hot springs spurting up near a cold 
stream. About 2 J ri. 

4. Shirane-san, 7,000 ft, high, 



Shirane signifies " White Peak/' which 
accounts for there being several moun- 
tains of this name in Japan. 

a frequently active volcano, (last 
eruption in 1905) forms a short 
day's expedition via Sessho-gawara, 
the path leading through a remark- 
able skeleton forest, blasted by the 
fumes exhaled during the eruption 
of 1882. The main crater (since the 
eruption of 1902) is oval and 
about 1,000 yards long by 400 wide, 
running N.E. and S.W. It is divid- 
ed into three parts, each separated 
by a wall and containing a lake, 
two of which are cold, while the 
middle one emits steam and dis- 
plays from time to time a geyser- 
like activity. A slimy mixture of 
volcanic ash and sulphur, one or two 
inches thick, surrounds the outer 
slope of the cone, which may never- 
theless be climbed on the E. side in 
a few minutes, and the descent 
made to the hard ash floor within. 
The water of the lakes contains a 
high proportion of free sulphuric 
acid, with ferrous and aluminous 
salts. — About J- m. to the S.E. of the 
main crater is a subsidiary one, also 
containing a cold lake ; but the 
slime round it is very deep. A jet 
of boiling sulphurous mud which 
stands close by, deserves inspection. 
Sturdy pedestrians may conve- 
niently take Shirane-san on the way 
to Shibu; but 2 J hrs. extra should 
be allowed for that object, as it lies 
off the main road. Horses go to the 
foot of the crater wall above-men- 
tioned. Beware of the water of the 
stream crossed on the way up, 
which is poisonous. 

5. — Kusatsu to Nagano ovee the 
Shibu-toge. The Toeii-toge. 



Itinerary. 



KUSATSU to :— 
Top of Shibu-toge 
SHIBU 

Toyono (Station). 



Ri Cho 
2 32 

4 — 

5 — 



M. 

7 



Total 



11 32 29 



Shibu-toge. Kusatsu to Numata. 



187 



On foot or on horseback as far 
as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea), 
whence basha or jinrikisha to Toyo- 
no ; thence train to Nagano in J hr. 

This route affords splendid 
scenery. The best plan is to sleep 
at the hot springs of Shibu (Inns, 
Tsubata-ya, Kanagu-ya), catching 
the train at Toyono next day, the 
good road thither from Shibu being 
traversed by basha in 2f hrs. 
Quince jelly is a speciality of the 
place. (Should Shibu be full, good 
accommodation and hot baths will 
be found at Yudanaka, 12 cho 
further down the valley.) Travellers 
who have not time to visit the 
temple of Zenkoji at Nagano can 
continue on by rail to Karuizawa 
and Tokyo. 

The picturesqueness of the road 
from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchas- 
ed at the cost of a long and 
steep climb. The big holes by the 
road-side recall the famous glacier 
holes of Lucerne. The descent from 
the top of the pass (7,150 ft.) to the 
vill. of Shibu, prettily situated in a 
deep ravine, is also very long and 
very rough walking. Notice the 
Alpine flowers, orchids, rare ferns, 
a beautiful lavender scabiosa, and 
small cinnabar-coloured lilies. A 
rocky gorge {Tsabame-iwa, or the 
"Swallow's Rock") 1J ri before 
Shibu is impressive. Half a ri 
further, where a placard points 
out the path 1., it is worth descend- 
ing for a few min. to view the fine 
Kamman waterfall. The road can 
be rejoined below. The panorama 
before entering Shibu is extensive, 
including Myoko-zau, Togakushi, 
and Izuna, and towering behind 
them again the northern part of the 
great granite range on the borders 
of Etchu. Winding through the 
plain is the Chikuma-gawa, of which 
the Hoshi-kawa flowing through 
Shibu is an affluent. A little over 
J ri from Shibu is a small but con- 
stantly active geyser [Ojigoku) in 
the river-bed. 

An alternative way to Nagano 



from Kusatsu leads over the Torii- 
tog , e, 6,520 ft. above the sea. It 
descends to the vill. of Sumka. The 
itinerary of the Torii-toge route is 
as follows : — 

KUSATSU to:— Bi Cho M. 

Mihara 2 6 h\ 

Ozasa 1 31 4J 

Tashiro 2 — 5 

Torii-toge 30 2 

Nire 3 28 9J 

Suzaka 1 10 3J 

NAGANO 3 5 7| 

Total 15 2 36f 

This so-called pass is but a gentle 
ascent of 50 cho. The prettiest 
part of the route is on the far side 
of it, where, after leaving the vill. 
of Nire, the monotony of grassy 
hills shutting out all distant pros- 
pect is exchanged for charming 
views of the mountains on the 
borders of Echigo. 

6. — Feom Kusatsu to Numata. 

Pedestrians from Kusatsu bound 
for the Konsei-toge and Nikko may 
avail themselves of a path leading 
from Nakonojo (see p. 184) to Nu- 
mata direct (5 ri 27 cho). It leaves 
the E. border of the town, later 
crosses and* follows a tributary of 
the Agatsuma-gawa to the vill. of 
Nakayama ; thence up the Naka- 
yama-toge, which commands beauti- 
ful views of the Tonegawa, the 
Katashina-gawa, the curiously ter- 
raced plateau on which Numata 
stands, and the distant encircling 
mountains. The path rapidly des- 
cends to and along the bank of the 
Tonegawa to the bridge on the way 
from Shibukawa to Numata. 



188 Route 14. — The Shimizu-goe and Mikuni-toge. 



ROUTE 14. 



The Shimizu-goe and 
Mikuni-toge. 

Acquaintance with a represen- 
tative portion of Japan's central 
mountain range may be made by 
going due N. from Ikao over the 
Shimizu-goe, and returning by its 
neighbour, the Mikuni-toge. Snow 
lies on the higher sections of the 
route till early in July. The time 
should be divided as follows : — 
first day, jinrikisha to Yubiso; 
second day (very long) on foot to 
Nagasaki, whence jinrikisha to 
Muika-machi; third day, jinrikisha 
to Yuzawa at the foot of the Mikuni- 
toge, and walk to Futai ; fourth 
day, on foot to Saru-ga-kyo, or to 
Yu-no-shuku a little short of Fuse ; 
fifth day, walk to Ikao. Accommo- 
dation is also to be obtained at 
Yubara, Shimizu, Nagasaki, Asakai, 
and Nakayama. 

Itinerary of the Shimizu-goe. 

IKAO to : - Bi Cho M. 

Shibukawa 2 15 6 

NUMATA 4 20 11£ 

Yubara 4 28 ll| 

Yubiso 1 10 3J- 

Buno 2 27 6f 

TopofPass 26 If 

Shimizu 2 18 6J- 

Nagasaki 1 27 4J- 

MUIKA-MACHI ..2 1 5 

Total 23 2 56| 



After descending to Shibukawa, 
the highway leads up the valley of 
the Tonegawa, with the great mass 
of Akagi-san to the r., and the cen- 
tral range ahead and to the 1. Just 
beyond the hamlet of Tanashita, 
where the river runs in a deep 
gorge between perpendicular rocky 
clirf s, the scenery becomes pictures- 
que. Time is gained by leaving 
2sumata (see Route 17) to the r., 



and diverging 1. at the hamlet 
of Togano at the junction of the 
Katashina-gawa with the Tone- 
gawa. The main road from Numa- 
ta, which is soon regained, is 
excellent, and the scenery even more 
charming. Hills rise on every side, 
repeating themselves in an endless 
succession of green cones. Yubara 
(1,350 ft.) is prettily perched on 
either side of the stream which 
flows far below, with rocks washed 
white by some hot springs. But 
the crowning beauty of this day is 
at the end, where the mountains 
are all forest-clad, and each valley 
is dominated by a lofty peak which 
remains snow-streaked till past 
mid-summer. Shortly before reach- 
ing Yubiso, we turn sharp 1., and 
at last leave the Tonegawa to follow 
a tributary stream flowing from 
the narrow and sombre valley that 
leads to the Shimizu-goe. The 
prominent peak rising due E. of 
the junction of the two streams is 
Hodaka-yama, where the Tonegawa 
has its source. 

Yubiso (Inn, with hot springs) 
lies 1,650 ft. above sea level. About 
2 m. further on, we leave the good 
road hitherto followed for a track 
through a glorious forest of beech 
and chestnut-trees to Bund, which 
consists of three or four poverty- 
stricken inns at the foot of the 
Shimizu-goe. Steep and stony 
is the climb hence, but it affords 
picturesque glimpses. At 4,000 ft. 
a rest-house is reached, from which 
point the road winds round the 
mountain side for about 1 m. more 
to a small shrine at the actual 
summit of the pass, 500 ft. higher, 
which marks the boundary of the 
provinces of Kotsuke and Echigo. 
In front, mountain ridges, rising 
one behind the other, stretch away 
towards the horizon, the most 
prominent being Naeba-san to the 
W. of the Mikuni-toge. On the 
descent to the vill. of Shimizu 
short cuts may be availed of 
through the grass and trees. The 
remainder of the way is an almost 



Mikuni-toge. 



189 



mathematically straight line down 
an easy gradient between parallel 
ranges of hills to Nagasaki and 

Muika-rnachi (Inn, Ebisu-ya). 
This is a typical Echigo town, with 
its arcaded pathways to keep a clear 
passage amid the deep snows of 
winter. 

[Passenger-boats go down the 
river hence (an affluent of the 
Shinano-gawa) to Nagaoka on 
the railway (see Route 25), in 
7 to 10 hours. They are un- 
comfortable, shoals and rapids 
numerous, and the stoppages 
frequent. The jinrikisha road, 
14 H, is preferable. Hakkai-zan 
stands out conspicuously on 
the r. during a great portion of 
the way.] 

Itinerary of the Milcune-tbge. 

MUIKA-MACHI to : Ri Chb M. 

Shiozawa 33 2J 

Seld 1 29 4J 

Yuzawa 1 16 3 J 

Mitsumata ,. 2 20 6} 

Futai 2 3 5* 

Asakai 1 29 4J 

Nagai 3 32 9J 

Saru-ga-ky5 22 1^ 

Fuse' 1 31 U 

Nakayama 2 31 7 

IKAO (approximately) 5 — 12£ 

Total 25 4 61J 



The jinrikisha road from Muika- 
machi leads up a gradual incline 
to Yumica, where the ascent of 
the Mikuni-toge begins. Proper- 
ly speaking, four passes are includ- 
ed under this general name, the first 
being the Shibahara-tbge, 2,135 ft. 
above the sea. Descending to the 
bank of the Kiyotsu-gawa, we 
arrive at the vill. of Mitsumata 
and mount again to reach the 
top of the Xakano-tbge, 2,800 ft., 
amidst lovely views of river, forest, 
and mountain. We now go down 
a little, and mount again to a height 
of 3,200 ,ft., whence far below is 



descried the vill. of Futai. A short 
descent then leads to Asakai, 
which stands at a height of 2,820 ft. 
in the midst of gentle slopes crown- 
ed by densely wooded summits. 
Here comes the ascent of the Mi- 
kuni Pass properly so called, 4,100 
ft. above the sea, whence are seen 
Akagi-san, Futago-yama, and 
Kwannon-dake to the S., and on 
the N. the long ridge of Naeba-san. 
Nagai stands in a picturesque 
gorge. A spur of the hills is cross- 
ed on the way to Saru-ga-kyb, 
where there are hot springs. The 
scenery beyond Fuse is magnificent, 
the way leading through a precipi- 
tous gorge to the top of the Kiri- 
ga-kubo-tbge, 2,700 ft., at whose far 
side nestles the hamlet of Naka- 
yama. The path now rises by a 
gentle gradient over the moorland 
stretching between Komochi-zan 1., 
and Onoko-yama r., to the Naka- 
yama-toge, 2,170 ft., and comes in 
full view of the Haruna mountains, 
with Ikao perched far up above the 
valley. 

The regular path descends 1. 
through Yokobori to Shibukawa, 
while that to be followed diverges r., 
crossing the Agatsuma-gawa by 
ferry at Hakojima, and ascending 
thence over open country to Ikao. 



190 



Route 15. — Oyama-Maebashi Railway. 



KOUTE 15. 

The Oyama-Maebashi Railway, 
temple-caves of izuetj. 



10 

2 ~ "P 


Names 






of 


Remarks 


S~* 


Stations 






TOKYO (Ueno) 




48m. 


OYAMA JCT.... 


See Rte. 69. 


54| 


Tochigi 




57£ 


Tomiyama 




60 


Iwafune 




64£ 


Sano 


(Alight for 


67^ 


Tomita 


\ caves of 




( Izuru. 


71f 


Ashikaga 




74£ 


Yamamae 




77} 


Omata 




80| 


Kiryu 


( Eoad to Nik- 


83| 


OMAMA 


] ko by Wata- 
( rase-gawa. 


87A 


Kunisada 




91 


Isezaki 




m 


Komakata 




98| 


MAEBASHI 





This line of railway, branching 
off. from the Northern line at Oya- 
ma, which is reached in 2J hrs. 
from T6ky5, traverses the provinces 
of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. It 
affords the easiest way of reaching 
Ikao in one day from Nikko. The 
scenery is pretty all along the line. 

Tochigi (Inn, Koiyasu) is an 
important town whose chief product 
is hempen thread. 

Sano [Inn, Saito), also called 
Temmyo, is another prosperous 
place, possessing the ruins of a 
castle 900 years old. 

From Sano an excursion may be 
made to the curious lime-stone 
Caves of Izuru, where a temple 
dedicated to Kwannon was founded 
by Shodo Shonin in the 8th century. 
In these caves the saint is fabled to 
have taken up his abode, and to 
have passed three years in prayer 
and meditation. They are most 



easily reached by a light railway 
branching off: north from Sano sta- 
tion to Kuzuu, whence they lie about 
2 ri by jinrikisha. (From Tanuma, 
on this branch line, one may visit (f 
hr.) the park-like temple grounds of 
Karazawa-yama.) From the vill. of 
Izuru, it is a walk of 2 cho up a 
ravine to the cave called Daishi no 
Iwaya, the mouth of which lies high 
up amongst the precipitous rocks, 
and is only to be reached by lad- 
ders. Further on is the cave sacred 
to Kwannon, reached by climbing 
over steep rocks with the assistance 
of chains, and then by ladders up 
to a platform on which stand im- 
ages of Daikoku and Shodo Sh5nin. 
The guide lights candles and shows 
the way into the cave, which con- 
tains a large stalactite supposed to 
resemble a back view of the body of 
Kwannon. The cavern is evidently 
much deeper, but pilgrims do not 
usually go further in. Close by is 
a hollow in the rock, with two 
issues. The guide climbs up a 
ladder to the upper hole, gets inside, 
and after a minute or two appears, 
head first, out of the lower. Half a 
cho further is another cave, named 
after the god Dainichi Nyorai, and 
having two branches, — one about 
50 yds. deep, the other penetrating 
for an unknown distance into the 
mountain. 

Tomita. 1 J ri from this station 
stand the vill. of Izuru-hara, where 
large quarries are worked, and near 
by, on the hillside, a temple to Ben- 
ten, with an inn situated amongst 
fine trees. 

Ashikaga (Inn, Hatsugai) is a 
centre of the trade in native cotton 
and silk goods, the former, however, 
mostly woven from foreign yarns. 

Ashikaga was celebrated for its Aca- 
demy of Chinese Learning, the foundation 
of which institution is traditionally 
ascribed to the eminent scholar Ono-no- 
Takamura (A.D. 801-852). It reached the 
zenith of its prosperity in the time of the 
Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty, its last 
great benefactor being Uesugi Norizane, 
who died in 1466. This academy pos- 
sessed a magnificent library of Chinese 



Route 16. — Nikko and Chuzenji. 



191 



works, and was the chief centre of Chinese 
erudition and of the worship of Con- 
fucius, until the establishment of the 
Seido at Yedo (p. 125). 

Most of the books are now dis- 
persed, but the bronze tablet, with 
a portrait of Confucius, remains, 
and rubbings of it are sold to 
pilgrims, who also pay their respects 
at the temple. A side shrine con- 
tains efngies of the Shoguns of 
the Ashikaga dynasty (p. 61). 

Kiryu {Inn, Kaneki-ya) lies about 
2 ri from its station. The chief pro- 
ducts are crape, gauze, and habutai, 
a silk fabric resembling taffeta. The 
large manufactory here, called the 
Nippon Orimono Kwaisha, merits 
inspection. It is furnished with 
French machinery for the manufac- 
ture of satins in European style. 

Omama {Inn, Toyoda-ya) is 
situated near the foot of Akagi-san. 
The picturesque road from here to 
the copper mines of Ashio by the 
valley of the Watarase-gawa is de- 
scribed in Route 18. Omama itself 
is a dull town J m. long, entirely 
devoted to sericulture. Inconveni- 
ence is caused by the fact that the 
railway station lies 1 ri 8 cho distant 
from the town. Travellers coming 
down the Watarase-gawa must allow 
for this. 

Maebashi, see p. 173. 



BOUTE 16. 



Nikko and Chuzenji. 

1. geneeal information. 2. chief 
objects of interest. 3. objects 
of minor interest. 4:. walks 
in the neighbourhood. 5. chu- 
zenji and neighbourhood. 6. 
yumoto. ascent of shirane-san 
and other mountains. 

1. — General Information. 

A Japanese proverb says, " Do not 
use the word magnificent till you 
have seen Nikko." 

Nikko wo minai uchi wa 9 
" Kekko " to iu na I 
Nikko' s is a double glory, — a glory 
of nature and a glory of art. 
Mountains, cascades, monumental 
forest trees, had always stood there. 
To these, in the 17th century, were 
added the mausolea of the illustri- 
ous Shogun Ieyasu, founder of the 
Tokugawa dynasty, and of his 
scarcely less famous grandson Ie- 
mitsu. Japanese wood-carving 
and painting on wood being then 
at their zenith, the result was the 
most perfect assemblage of shrines 
in the whole land. But though 
there is gorgeousness, there is no 
gaudiness. That sobriety, which is 
the key-note of Japanese taste, 
gives to all the elaborate designs 
and bright colours its own chaste 
character. 

Properly speaking, Nikko is the 
name, not of any single place, 
but of a whole mountainous dis- 
trict lying about 100 miles to the 
N. of Tokyo. Nevertheless, when 
people speak of going to Nikko, 
they generally mean going to one 
of the villages called Rachi-ishi and 
Irimachi, between which stand the 
mausolea. Lying 2,000 ft. above 
the sea, Nikko is a delightful sum- 
mer resort, for which reason many 
foreign residents of Tokyo have 
villas there, or else at Chuzenji 



M [ D 0¥ A M £ 



1KK0 






ir 



O ENSRAVINS OFFICE TOKYO "g\\\ 



192 



Route 16. — Nikko and Chuzenji. 



7} m. further on. The sole draw- 
back to the climate is the frequent 
rain. Within a radius of 15 miles 
there are no less than twenty-five 
or thirty pretty cascades. Nikkd is 
noted, among, other things, for the 
glorious tints of its foliage at the 
beginning of November. 

Nikko is reached in 4 hrs. from 
Tokyd by the Northern Eailway, 
cars being sometimes changed at 
TJtsunomiya, where the Nikko line 
branches off. Travellers from 
Yokohama change cars previously 
at Shinagawa and Akabane ; but as 
these connections often fail, time 
and trouble may be saved by going 
on to Shimbashi, and driving thence 
across Tokyo to Ueno station. 

Nikk5 Branch Line. 





Names 




2 9 £ 


of 


Remarks 


ac£ O 






5 -H 


Stations 






TOKYO (Ueno) 


(See Northern 


65fm. 


UTSUNOMIYA.. 


< Railway . 
( Route 69. 


68£ 


Tsuruta 




U{ 


Kanurna 




7$| 


Fubasami 




86} 


Imaichi 




90| 


NIKKO (Eachi- 
ishi) 





The railway diverges to the W., 
in order to tap the Reiheishi Kaido 
at the thriving town of Kanurna. 
Following that highway lined 
with ancient cryptomerias, it does 
not come in sight of the other and 
still more imposing avenue ( Nikko 
Kaido), 20 m. in length, which leads 
from Utsunomiya to Nikko, until 
Imaichi is reached, where the two 
roads join. 

The Reiheishi Kaido was so called, be- 
cause in old days the Reiheishi, or Envoy 
of the Mikado, used to travel along it, 
bearing gifts from his Imperial master to 
be offered at the mausoleum of Ieyasu. 
Both avenues, though anciently contin- 
uous, now show mauy breaks, mostly the 
result of mischief done by the peasantry. 



Fine views of the Nikko moun- 
tains are obtained on the r. between 
Utsunomiya and Kanurna ; later, 
Nantai-zan alone is seen towering 
above a lower range in the fore- 
ground. Then thick vegetation 
shuts out the prospect until a break 
occurs 10 min. beyond Fubasami, 
when the whole mountain mass 
appears to the 1. ahead. 

The village of Hachi-ishi being a 
long one, and the railway only 
touching its lower end, there re- 
mains a stretch of from 1J m. to 2 
m. to be done by electric tram or 
jinrikisha from the station to the 
hotels. 

When leaving Nikko, travellers 
are recommended to take jinrikishas 
for the 4 miles leading to Imaichi 
station, as a means of seeing the 
great avenue, the servant or guide 
being meanwhile sent from Nikko 
station with the luggage. 

Hotels. — * Kanaya Hotel, with 
landscape garden on hill behind, 
*Nikko Hotel, both Europ. style; 
Konishi-ya, Jap. st} T le. 

Fine Art Gallery (Bijutsu-kwan). 
— in main street of Hachi-ishi. 
Also contains productions of adja- 
cent prefecture. There are some 
excellent curio shops. 

English Church. — Near the public 
park. 

Means of Conveyance.—" Chairs," 
kagos, or saddle-horses can be 
taken to such places as are not 
accessible by jinrikisha. The elec- 
tric tram runs as far as Iwahana 
(4 m.) for Chuzenji. 

Guides are in attendance at the 
hotels, and will arrange for the 
purchase of tickets of admittance 
to the mausolea. The mausolea of 
the Shoguns are open daily from 8 
a.m. to 4 p.m. Visitors must remove 
their boots at the entrance to the main 
shrines. 

For the purpose of assisting in the 
preservation of the buildings, contribu- 
tions may be made of 5 yen or 2> yen. 
The former will confer upon the donor 
the permanent privilege of admission to 
all the temples without further fees; 



History. 



193 



the latter includes all the members of a 
family 

Nikko is a mart for skins of the 
badger, deer, marten, wild-boar, 
etc., and for various pretty articles 
made of a black fossil wood (jlndai- 
boku) brought from Sendai in the 
north, 

History.— The range of Mountains 
known as Nikko-zan lies on the N. W. 
boundary of the province of Shimotsuke. 
The original name was Futa-ara-yama, 
which, when written with Chinese ideo- 
graphs, may also be pronounced Ni-ko- 
zan. According to the popular account, 
the name was derived from periodical 
hurricanes in spring and autumn, which 
issued from a great cavern on Nantai-zan, 
the mountain to the N. E. of Chuzenji. 
In A.D. 820 Kobo Daishi visited the spot, 
made a road to the neighbourhood of the 
cavern and changed the name of the 
range to Nikko-zan, or " Mountains of the 
Sun's Brightness," from which moment 
the storms ceased to devastate the 
country. Another explanation of the 
name Futa-ara-yama is that it means 
" The Two Raging Mountains," in allusion 
to the two volcanoes which form part of 
it, viz. Nantai-zan, and Shirane-san 
beyond Yumoto. But though the latter 
breaks out at frequent intervals, no 
eruptions have taken place from Nantai- 
zan within the memory of man. 

From the earliest ages a Shinto 
temple existed at Nikko, which was after- 
wards removed to Utsunomiya. In the 
year 767 the first Buddhist shrine was 
erected by the saint Shodo Shonin. 
At the beginning of the 9th century, 
Kobo Daishi, and in the middle of the 
same century the abbot Jikaku Daishi, 
added to the holy places. The following 
account of Shodo Shonin is summarised 
from a memoir written by his immediate 
disciples. He was born at Takaoka in 
Shimotsuke, in A.D. 735. His parents 
had long desired to have a son, and 
at last their wish was granted by the 
Thousand-Handed Kwannon of the Izuru 
Caves, to whom they had prayed for 
offspring. Various portents accompaDied 
his birth : loud thunder was heard, a 
miraculous cloud hung over the cottage, 
flowers fell from heaven into the 
courtyard, and a strange perfume filled 
the air. From his earliest years the 
saint was devoted to the worship of 
the gods, and amused himself by raising 
toy pagodas and shrines of earth and 
stones. In his twentieth year he secretly 
quitted his father's house, and took up 
his abode in the cave of the Thousand- 
Handed Kwannon at Izuru. After 
passing three years in prayer and medi- 
tation, he dreamt in mid-winter of a 



great mountain N. of Izuru, on the top 
of which lay a sword more than 3 ft 
in length. On awaking, he left the cave] 
and endeavoured to make his way in 
the direction indicated; but the deep 
snow opposed difficulties almost insur- 
mountable. Vowing to sacrifice his life 
rather than abandon the enterprise, he 
persevered, and at last reached a point 
from which he beheld the object of his 
search. Ascending to the top of the 
mountain, he gave himself up to austere 
discipline, living on fruits which were 
brought to him by a supernatural being. 
After thus passing three more years, he 
returned to Izuru, and in 762 visited the 
temple of Yakushi-ji, not far from Ishi- 
bashi on the Oshu Kaido, where, meeting 
some Chinese priests, he was admitted 
by them as a novice. He remained in 
the monastery for five years, and then 
returned to the mountain now called 
Kobu-ga-hara. From its summit he be- 
held, on the range to the N., four 
miraculous clouds of different colours 
rising straight up into the sky, and he 
at once set off to reach them, carrying 
his holy books and images in a bundle on 
his back. On reaching the spot whence 
the clouds had seemed to ascend, he 
found his advance barred by a broad 
river, which poured its torrent over huge 
rocks and looked utterly impassabfe. 
The saint fell upon his knees and prayed, 
whereupon there appeared on the oppo- 
site bank a divine being of colossal size, 
dressed in blue and black robes, and 
having a string of skulls hung round his 
neck. This being cried out that he would 
help him to pass the stream, as he had 
once helped the Chinese pilgrim Hsuan 
Chuang across the Biver of Flowing Sand 
With this promise, he flung across the 
river two green and blue snakes which 
he held in his right hand, and in an 
instant a long bridge was seen to span 
the waters, like a rainbow floating anion* 
the hills ; but when the saint had crossed 
it and reached the northern bank, both 
the god and the snake-bridge suddenly 
vanished. Having thus attained the ob- 
ject of his desires, Shodo Shonin built 
himself a hut* wherein to practice his 
religious exercises. One night a man 
appeared to him in a vision, and told him 
that the hill rising to the north was called 
the Mount of the Four Gods, and was 
inhabited by the Azure Dragon, the Ver- 
milion Bird, the White Tiger, and the 
Sombre Warrior, who respectively occu- 
pied its E., S., W., and N. peaks He 
climbed the hill, and found that he had 
arrived at the goal of his journey; for 
there were the four clouds which he had 
originally set out to seek, rising up around 
him. He proceeded accordingly to build 
a shrine, which he named the Monastery 

* Its remains are in the grounds of the 
Kanaya Hotel. 



194 



Route 16. — Nikko and Chuzenji. 



of the Four Dragons (Shi-7ion-ryu-ji). In 
the year 767 he resolved to ascend the 
highest peak of the group, and after duly- 
preparing himself by religious exercises, 
he set out upon this new enterprise. After 
ascending for a distance of over 40 ri 
(probably the ancient ri, of which 4=1 
mile), he came to a great lake (Chuzenji) 
on the flank of the mountain [Nan-tai- 
zan); but in spite of his prayers found it 
impossible to proceed any further, on 
account of the deep snow and the terrific 
peals of thunder which roared about the 
mountain top. He therefore retraced his 
steps to Nikko, where he spent fourteen 
years in fitting himself, by the repetition 
of countless prayers and the performance 
of penances, for the task which he was 
unwilling to abandon. In 781 he renewed 
the attempt unsuccessfully, but in the 
following year he finally reached the sum- 
mit, accompanied by some of his dis- 
ciples. It seemed to him a region such as 
gods and other superhuman beings would 
naturally choose for their residence, 
and he therefore erected a Buddhist 
temple called Chuzenji, in which he 
placed a life-size image of the Thousand- 
handed Kwannon, and close by it a 
Shinto temple in honour of the Gongen 
of Nikko. He also built a shrine to the 
" Great King of the Deep Sand" (Jinja 
Dai-b) at the point where he had crossed 
the stream. Shodo Shonin died in 817 in 
the odour of sanctity. 

In A.D. 1616, when Jigen Daishi was 
abbot, the second Shogun of the Toku- 
gawa dynasty, acting on the dying in- 
junctions of his father Ieyasu, sent two 
high officials to Nikko to select a rest- 
ing-place for his father's body, which had 
been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan 
(see Route 23). They chose a site on a hill 
called Eotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum 
was commenced in December of the same 
year. The mortuary shrine and some of 
the surrounding edifices were completed 
in the spring of the succeeding year, and 
on the 20th April the procession bearing 
the corpse started from Kuno-zan, reach- 
ing Nikko on the 8th May. The coffin 
was deposited in the tomb, with impres- 
sive Buddhist services in which both the 
reigning Shogun and an envoy from the 
Mikado took part. In the year 1644 Jigen ' 
Daishi died. The next abbot was a court 
noble, the next to him was a son of the 
Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since which time, 
down to the revolution of 1868, the abbot 
of Nikko was always a prince of the Im- 
perial blood. He usually resided at Ueno 
in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times 
annually. (Of. small type on p. 127.) 
In 1871 a fire destroyed the Prince Abbot's 
palace and a large number of temples. 
What the visitor now sees is therefore but 
a fragment— though a grand one— of the 
former splendour of the place. Judicious 
repairs have been proceeding since the 
beginning of the present century, 



A great festival is held annually 
on the 1st and 2nd June. The 
sacred palanquins (mikoshi) con- 
taining the divine symbols are then 
borne in procession, when ancient 
costumes, masks, and armour are 
donned by the villagers, old and 
young alike taking part in the dis- 
play. Another, but less elaborate, 
ceremonial is observed on the 17th 
September. 

2. — Chief Objects of Intebest. 

On issuing from the upper end of 
the village, one of the first objects 
to arrest attention has always been 
the Mihashi, or Sacred Eed Bridge 
spanning the Daiya-gawa, a stream 
about 40 ft. wide, the bridge being 
83 ft. between abutments. 

This bridge, originally erected in 1638 
in connection with the shrines, was closed 
to all persons except the Shogun, save 
twice a year when pilgrims were allowed 
to cross it. Having been washed away in 
the great flood of 1902, it was restored in 
1907. The site is where, according to 
the legend above related, Shodo Shonin 
passed the river. 

Forty yards lower down the 
stream, is the so-called " Temporary 
Bridge," which is open to ordinary 
mortals. Crossing this and turning 
to the 1., the visitor ascends a paved 
slope through a grove of cryptome- 
rias, and reaches the enclosure in 
which formerly stood the Hombo, or 
Abbot's Palace. This is commonly 
spoken of as Mang'wanji or Bin- 
noji, names which, however, proper- 
ly denote all the Nikko temple 
buildings collectively. The road to 
be taken skirts the S. wall of this 
enclosure, and then follows its W. 
side. On the 1. of the avenue is the 
Ghbyo-kwan, formerly used for the 
reception of grandees of the Toku- 
gawa family, but now the summer 
residence of two Imperial Prin- 
cesses. 

Within the Mangwanji enclosure 
stands the Sambutsu-do, or Hall of 
the Three Buddhas, so called from 
gigantic gilt images of the 



Mausoleum of Ieyasu, 



195 



Thousand-handed Kwannon r., 
Amida in the centre, and the 
Horse-headed Kvannon L, which 
are enshrined on the main altar 
behind split bamboo blinds. There 
are other images, and a silk mandara 
of Dainichi Nyorai and the 36 
Buddhas. At the back of the 
building is a row of small painted 
images, among which Fud5 and 
his followers, coloured blue, occupy 
the place of honour. The shrine 
behind, where little carved charms 
are sold, is dedicated to Ryo Daishi. 
Close by is a pillar called Sbrinto, 
erected in 1643 for the sake of 
averting evil influences. It consists 
of a cylindrical copper column 42 
ft. high, of a black colour, supported 
by horizontal bars crossing through 
its centre, which rest on shorter 
columns of the same material. 
The top is adorned with a series of 
four cups shaped like lotus-flowers, 
from the petals of which depend 




SOBINTO, 



small bells. Just beneath the 
lowest of these cups are four small 
medallions, with the Tokugawa 
crest. Notice the two handsome 
bronze lanterns dating from 1648. 
On the opposite side of the road is 
the Public Park. 

Mausoleum of Ieyasu. As- 
cending some broad steps between 
two rows of cryptomerias, we come 
to the granite torii presented by 
the Daimyo of Chikuzen from his 
own quarries in the year 1618. Its 
total height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the 
diameter of the columns is 3 ft. 6 
in. The inscription on the columns 
merely records the fact of their 
presentation and the name of the 
donor. On the 1. is a five-storied 
pagoda of graceful form, painted 
in harmonious colours. It rises to 
a height of 104 ft., and the roofs 
measure 18 ft. on each side. This 
monument was the offering in 1659 
of Sakai Wakasa-no-Kami, one of 
the chief supporters of the Toku- 
gawa family. Round the lower 
storey are life-like painted carvings 
of the twelve signs of the zodiac. 
Opposite the pagoda, and standing 
amidst the trees to the r. of the 
steps, is the Kari-den, a building 
used to hold the image of Ieyasu 
whenever the main temple is under 
repair. From the torii, a pavement 
leads to the bottom of the steps 
crowned by the Ni-o-mon, or Gate 
of the Two Kings. Gigantic figures 
of the Ni-5 occupy the niches on 
the outside of this gate, Ama-iuu 
and Koma-inu the inside. On the 
tops of the pillars, at the four 
external angles, are representations 
of a mythological animal called 
baku. 

One of the most ancient Chinese 
classical books says of this animal : "In 
shape it resembles a goat ; it has nine 
tails, four ears, and its eyes are on its 
back." Accordiug to another authority. 
" It resembles a wolf, with the trunk of 
an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the 
tail of a bull, and the legs of a tiger." It 
is credited with the power to avert evil, 
and is therefore sometimes depicted in 
gold lacquer on the pillows used by the 
nobility, because it will \)e able to devour 



196 



Route 16. — Nikko and Ghuzenji. 



any bad dreams that may pass before 
their sleeping eyes. 

The heads on the central pillars 
of the two outer ends of the struct- 
ure are lions ; in the niches r. and 1. 
of the lion at one end are unicorns, 
and in the corresponding niches at 
the other end are fabulous beasts 
called takuju, which are supposed 
to be endowed with the power of 
speech, and only to appear in the 
world when a virtuous sovereign 
occupies the throne. The doorways 
are ornamented with elephants' 
heads; the first portico has lions 
and peonies, and the second tigers. 
The interiors of the niches on the 
outside of the gateway are decorated 
with tapirs and peonies, those on 
the inside niches with bamboos. 
The carvings of tigers under the 
eaves on the interior side of the 
gateway are excellent. 

Passing through the gateway, the 
visitor finds himself in a court-yard 
raised high above the approach, 
and enclosed by a timber wall 
painted bright red. The three 
handsome buildings arranged m a 
zigzag are storehouses, where 
various utensils employed in the 
religious ceremonies performed in 
honour of Ieyasu, pictures, furni- 
ture, and other articles used by him 
during his life-time, and many other 
treasures are deposited. The third 
is remarkable for two painted 
carvings of elephants in relief in 
the gable of the nearest end, which 
are ascribed to Hidari Jingoro, the 
drawing having been made by the 
celebrated artist Tan-yu. It will be 
noticed that the joints of the hind- 
legs are represented bent in the 
wrong direction. 

On the 1. of the gate stands a 
conifer of the species called kdya- 
maki, surrounded by a stone 
railing. 

Some say that this is the identical tree 
which Ieyasu was in the habit of carrying 
about with him in his palanquin, when it 
was still small enough to be held in a 
flower-pot. 



This gateway, like the others to 
be noticed further on, is beautifully 
carved. 

Over the doors are some cleverly 
executed groups of monkeys, for 
whose signification see Koshin (p. 
48). An interesting object is the 
On Ghozu-ya, containing a holy- 
water cistern cut out of one solid 
piece of granite, and sheltered by a 
roof supported on twelve square 
pillars of the same material. It was 
erected in 1618. The pediment of 
the roof contains a pair of winged 
dragons, carved in wood and paint- 
ed. The beautifully decorated 
building beyond the holy-water 
basin is called the Kyozo, and is 
the depository of a complete col- 
lection of the Buddhist scriptures, 
contained in a fine revolving octag- 
onal book-case with red lacquer 
panels and gilt pillars. In front are 
smiling figures of Fu Daishi and his 
sons (see p. 45), whence the name 
of Warai-do, popularly applied to 
this edifice. Paintings of angels 
on a gilt ground occupy the clere- 
story of the interior. In the centre 
of the court stands a fine bronze 
torii, with the Tokugawa crest in 
gold on the tops of the pillars and 
on the tie-beam. 

A flight of steps gives access to 
a second court, along the front of 
which runs a stone balustrade. 
Just inside are two stone lions in 
the act of leaping down, presented 
by Iemitsu. On the r. stand a bell- 
tower; a bronze candelabrum pre- 
sented by the King of Luchu, 
and a bell given by the king of Ko- 
rea, called the "Moth-eaten Bell," 
because of there being a hole in the 
top, just under the ring by which it 
is suspended. On the 1. stand a 
bronze lantern from Korea, a can- 
delabrum from Holland, and a 
drum-tower, no unworthy compan- 
ion to the bell-tower opposite. (Be- 
it remarked that Holland (!), Korea, 
and Luchu were considered to be 
Japan's three vassal states.) The 
lantern is a fine and solid piece of 
workmanship; but its style and 



Mausoleum of leyasu. 



197 



construction indicate that it does 
not owe its origin to Korea. The 
two candelabra and the lantern, as 
well as the bronze candle-brackets 
fixed upon the interior wall of the 
court, r. and 1. of the steps, probably 
came from Europe through Dutch 
or Portuguese traders. Two iron 
standard lanterns on the r. of the 
steps, presented by Date Masa- 
mune, Daimyo of Sendai, and the 
same number on the 1. given by the 
Daimyo of Satsuma, merit atten- 
tion. They are dated 1641. The 
total number of lanterns contrib- 
uted by various Daimyos is one 
hundred and eighteen. 

At the 1. extremity of this same 
platform stands the Temple of 
Yakushi, dedicated to Horaji Mine- 
no- Yakushi, the patron saint of 
leyasu, for which reason its Bud- 
dhist emblems have been left intact, 
while Shinto influence more or 
less modified the other shrines 
during the late reign. On either 
side of the altar stand images of 
the Shi-Tenno, flanked by Yaku- 
shi's twelve followers. The monster 
dragon in sepia occupying the whole 
ceiling is by Kand Yasunobu. 
Pilgrims clap their hands inside 
this building for the sake of a pecu- 
liar twittering echo. 

Proceeding towards the steps that 
lead up to the platform on which 
stands the exquisitely beautiful gate 
called Yomei-mon, observe the fence 
on either side, with fine medallions 
of mountain birds in the upper pan- 
els, and of water-fowl in the lower. 
The columns supporting the gate 
are carved with a minute geometri- 
cal pattern, and painted white. 
The marking of the hair on the two 
tigers {moku-me no tor a), in the 
central medallion of the 1. hand 
pillar, is obtained from the natural 
vein of the wood. The pillar next 
beyond has the pattern carved 
upside down, which was done pur- 
posely, owing to a superstitious 
notion that the flawless perfection 
of the whole structure might bring 
misfortune on the House of Toku- 



gawa by exciting the jealousy of 
Heaven. It is called the Ma-yoke 
no Hashira, or Evil-Averting 
Pillar. The side niches are lined 
with a pattern of graceful arabes- 
ques founded upon the peony ; those 
on the outside contain the images 
of Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed 
with bows and carrying quivers full 
of arrows on their backs ; the inner 
niches have Ama-inu and Koma- 
inu. The capitals of the columns 
are formed of unicorns' heads. The 
architrave of the second storey 
is adorned with white dragons' 
heads where the cross-beams inter- 
sect, and in the centre of each side 
and end is a magnificently involved 
dragon with golden claws. Above 
the architrave of the lower storey 
projects a balcony which runs all 
round the building. The railing 
is formed of children at play 
and other subjects. Below again 
are groups of Chinese sages 
and immortals. The roof is sup- 
ported by gilt dragons' heads with 
gaping crimson throats, and from 
the top a demon looks down. The 
Indian ink drawings of dragons on 
the ceilings of the two porticoes are 
by Tan-yu. 

Passing through the Yomei-mon, 
we enter a third court in which 
the Buddhist priests used to recite 
their liturgies at the two great 
annual festivals. Of the two build- 
ings on the r., one contains a stage 
for the performance of the sacred 
kagura dances, and in the other, 
called Goma-do, was an altar for 
burning the fragrant cedar while 
prayers were recited. On the 1. is 
the Mikoshi-db, containing the 
palanquins borne in procession on 
the 1st June, when the deified 
spirits of leyasu, Hideyoshi, and 
Yoritomo are supposed to occupy 
them. So heavy are they that each 
requires seventy-five men to carry 
it. 

The next object of interest is the 
Kara-mon, or Chinese Gate. It 
gives admittance to the main 
shrines, the enclosure being sur- 



198 



Route l&.^-jtfikko and ChuzenjL 



rounded by the tamagaki, or fence, 
forming a quadrangle each side of 
which is 50 yds. long, and is con- 
structed of gilt trellis with borders 
of coloured geometrical designs. 
Above and beneath these again are 
carvings of birds in groups, about 
8 in. high and 6 ft. long, with back- 
grounds of grass, carved in relief 
and gilt. The pillars of the Kara- 
mon are composed of Chinese 
woods inlaid with great skill and 
beauty, the subjects being the 
plum-tree, dragon, and bamboo. 
The two white figures under the 
roof are Chinese sages, while the 
lower row represents the Emperor 
Gyo (Yao), the founder of the 
Chinese monarchy, surrounded by 
his court. 

The folding-doors of the Honden, 
or oratory, are lavishly decorated 
with arabesques of peonies in gilt 
relief. Over the door and windows 
of the front are nine compart- 
ments filled with birds carved in 
relief, four on each side of the 
building ; and there are four more 
at the back, on each side of the 
corridor leading to the chapel. The 
interior is a large matted room, 
42 ft. long by 27 ft. deep, with an 
ante-chamber at each end. That 
on the r., which was intended for 
the Shdgun, contains pictures of 
lions on a gold ground, and four 
carved oak panels of phoenixes 
which at first sight seem to be in 
low relief, but prove, on closer 
examination, to be figures formed 
of various woods glued on to the 
surface of the panel. The rear 
compartment of the ceiling is of 
carved wood, with the Tokugawa 
crest in the centre surrounded by 
phoenixes and chrysanthemums. 
The opposite ante-chamber has the 
same number of panels, the sub- 
jects of which are eagles executed 
with much spirit, and a carved and 
painted ceiling with an angel sur- 
rounded by chrysanthemums. The 
gold paper gohei at the back of the 
oratory, and a circular mirror are 
the only ornaments left, the Bud- 



dhist bells, gongs, sutrag, and s<3 
forth, having been removed. Four 
steps at the back lead down into 
the Stone Chamber, so called because 
paved with stone under the matted 
wooden floor. The ceiling consists 
of square panels, with gold dragons 
on a blue ground. 

The Holy of Holies of this mauso- 
leum is accessible only by special 
previous arrangement and the pay- 
ment of 10 yen, or 7 yen per head 
for each member of a party. The 
three chambers composing it are 
called respectively Go Heiden, Go 
Naijin, and Go Nai Naijin. 
Japanese Buddhist art will here 
be found at its acme, in a blaze of 
gold and resplendent colours, with 
elaborate paintings of mythological 
beings and ancient court person- 
ages, precious woods inlaid and 
carved, richly lacquered pillars, 
splendid metal-work often super- 
imposed layer upon layer, — the 
whole a marvel of minute detail and 
in flawless preservation. Here also 
are set up the gold and silk gohei, 
an offering of the late Emperor, 
flanked by gilt sprigs of the sacred 
sakaki tree. The gorgeous gold 
lacquer shrines in the Nai-Naijin 
contain images (never shown) of 
Ieyasu, Hideyoshi, and Yoritomo. 
There are also replicas of the Im- 
perial regalia, — the sword, mirror, 
and jewel worshipped at Ise, — but 
only the sword may be seen. 
Shint5 priests in full canonicals 
will conduct the visitor with a 
lantern through these narrow spaces, 
where such triumphs of art lie 
hidden from the light of day. 
Generally a short, but solemn, 
service is performed before entering. 

To reach Ieyasu' s Tomb, we issue 
again from the Kara-mon, and pass 
between the Goma-db and Kagura- 
db to a door in the E. side of the 
gallery. Over this door is a carving 
called the Nemuri no Neko, or 
Sleeping Cat, one of Hidari Jin- 
goro's most famous works, though 
visitors will perhaps be disappointed 
at its insignificance amidst so much 



Tomb of Ieyasu. Mausoleum of Iemitsu. 



199 



grandeur. From this a moss-grown 
stone gallery and several steep 
nights — of about two hundred steps 
altogether — lead to the tomb on the 
hill behind. After passing through 
the torll at the top of the last 
flight, we reach another oratory 
used only when that below is under- 
going repairs. The tomb, shaped 
like a small pagoda, is a single 
bronze casting of a light colour, 
produced, it is said, by the admix- 
ture of gold. In front stands a low 
stone table, bearing an immense 
bronze stork with a brass candle in 
its beak, an incense -burner of 
bronze, and a vase with artificial 
lotus-flowers and leaves in brass. 
The whole is surrounded by a stone 
wall surmounted by a balustrade, 
the entrance being through a bronze 
gate the roof of which, as well as 
the gate itself, is a solid casting. 
Before it sit bronze Koma-inu and 
Ama-inu. 

On leaving the mausoleum of 
Ieyasu, we turn to the r. at the bot- 
tom of the steps, and pass along 
the avenue under the wall and 
through a torii, to an open space 
where stands r. the Shintd temple 
of Futa-ara Jinja, dedicated to the 
god Onamuji. 

When Shodo Shdnin, in A. D. 7S2, 
reached the top of Nantai-zan, the tute- 
lary deities of the region appeared to 
him, and promised to watch over the 
welfare of human beings and the pro- 
gress of Buddhism. Japan is believed to 
have been saved on many occasions 
from the perils of civil war and invasion 
by the intervention of these divine 
beings ; and local tradition avers that it 
was owing to the efficacy of the prayers 
here offered that the Mongol invaders 
in the 13th century were repulsed with 
such terrible loss. — The picture of a 
Kite alighting on the war-ship " Taka- 
chi-ho " commemorates an incident of 
the China-Japan war of 1891-5, from 
which an Order or Merit— the " Golden 
Kite " — has been deri ved . The chief festi- 
val of the temple is held on the 17th 
April. 

In the prettily decorated Honden 
behind, various antique objects, 
such as swords, vestments, lacquer, 
magatama, etc. are exhibited. In 



one corner of the enclosure stands 
a bronze lantern called the Bake- 
mono Torb, dating from 1292. 

This lantern owes its name to the tradi- 
tion that it anciently had the power of 
taking the form of a demon, and annoy- 
ing the inhabitants of the locality on 
dark nights, until a courageous man 
attacked it, and with his sword gave it a 
wound which is still visible on the cap. 

Turning to the 1. and descend- 
ing, we perceive two red-lacquered 
buildings {Futatsu-do), standing 
together and connected by a cover- 
ed gallery. The larger is dedicated 
to Amida, the smaller to Kishi Bojin 
and Fugen Bosatsu. Bound the 
sides of the interior of the former 
are ranged a number of Buddhist 
images. It is also called Yoritomo- 
do, because here, in a pagoda-shaped 
reliquary on the high altar, are 
preserved the bones of Yoritomo, 
which were discovered near the site 
of the Nio-mon gate of Ieyasu's 
mausoleum about the year 1617. 

How this statement is to be reconciled 
with the existence of Yoritomo's tomb at 
Kamakura (see p. 101), must be left to 
archaeologists to determine. 

Mausoleum of Iemitsu. The 

building seen to the r., before we 
mount the great stone staircase, is 
Byuko-in, the residence of the 
priests attached to this temple. The 
first gate leading towards the mau- 
soleum contains a pair of JS r i-o. 
Under a beautiful structure r., 
supported by granite pillars, is a 
massive granite water-basin. The 
dragon on the ceiling is by Kano 
Yasunobu. A flight of steps leads 
to the gate called Niten-mon. The 
niches on the outside contain a red 
statue of Komoku on the L, and on 
the r. a green one of Jikoku, while 
the inside niches are tenanted by 
the Gods of Wind and Thunder. 
Three more flights conduct us to 
the Yasha-mon, or Demon Gate, 
whose niches decorated with large 
gold peonies, contain the Shi-Tennd. 
Notice the fluting of the columns. 
Thence up to the Rara-Mon. 



200 



Route 16. — Nikko and Chuzenji. 



The oratory and chapel of this 
mausoleum are scarcely less mag- 
nificent than those of Ieyasu. Two 
large horn lanterns pointed out as 
Korean are evidently Dutch. The 
Holy of Holies of this Mausoleum is 
never shown. The Tomb is reached 
by another handsome gate (Kbka- 
mon) and flights of steps up the side 
of the hill on the r. of the chapel. 
It is of bronze, and in the same 
style as that of Ieyasu, but of a 
darker hue. The gates in front, 
likewise of bronze, are covered with 
large Sanskrit characters in shining 
brass. 

A two min. walk leads hence 
through the wood to another en- 
closure, with r. a pretty little temple 
dedicated to the memory of Jigen 
Daishi, otherwise called Tenkai 
Daisojo, abbot of Nikko at the time 
of Ieyasu's interment. Behind it 
stands his tomb, a massive stone 
structure of siupa shape, guarded 
by life-size stone effigies of the six 
Buddhist gods called collectively 
Koku-bu-Ten. A small flight of 
steps r. leads to the unpretending 
tombs of the prince-abbots of Nikko, 
thirteen in number. At the far end 
of the court is a square building 
dating from 1907, covering a large 
equestrian statue (wood) of Prince 
Kitashirakawa. His grave lies just 
beyond it. 

3. — Minor Objects of Interest. 

Besides the mausolea of the 
Shoguns, there are various objects 
at Nikko possessing a lesser degree 
of interest. Most of them lie amidst 
the splendid old trees behind Ie- 
yasu's mausoleum, and can be 
combined in a forenoon walk. 
Approaching either by the road 
leading up on the r. of the Man- 
gwanji enclosure, or by that beside 
the Hongu (see p. 201), we come in 
15 min. to the San-no-miya, a small 
red shrine surrounded by a stone 
balustrade. Women here offer up 
pieces of wood, similar in shape 
to those used in the Japanese 



game of chess, in the belief that 
this will enable them to pass safe- 
ly through the perils of childbirth. 
Beside it is the Kaisan-do, a red- 
lacquered building 35 ft. square, 
dedicated to Shod5 Shonin, the 
"pioneer of the mountain," as the 
name implies. Peeping through 
the grating which forms the window 
on the E. side, we see an image of 
Jizo occupying a lofty position, with 
an effigy of the saint below, and 
those of ten disciples ranged r. and 
1. Behind are the tombs of the 
saint and three of his disciples. 
At the base of the rugged and pre- 
cipitous rock at the back of the 
Kaisan-do are some rude Buddhist 
images, from which the hill takes 
its name of Hotoke-iwa. On the 
summit of this hill stands the tomb 
of Ieyasu. Proceeding along the 
stone-paved avenue, we pass a small 
shrine sacred to Tenjin. A large 
stone close to the path on the r., 
just beyond this, is called the Te- 
kake-ishi, or " Hand-touched Stone," 
because sanctified by the imposi- 
tion of Kobo Daishi' s hands. Frag- 
ments of it are valued as charms. 
Further on is a stone bearing a 
half -effaced inscription, erected over 
the spot where lies the horse which 
carried Ieyasu at the decisive battle 
of Seki-ga-hara, in the year 1600. 
The next object to be noticed is an 
immense cryptomeria, 7 ft. in 
diameter a little above the base, 
called the Ii-mori no sugi, from a 
supposed resemblance of its 
branches to a heap of boiled rice. 
Close to the path on the 1. is the 
Somen-ga-taki, or " Vermicelli Cas- 
cade," also called Shira-ito, or 
" White Thread." 

Retracing our steps for a few 
yards, we take the path (seen on 
the 1. as we came up the avenue) 
leading over the hill to Futa-ara 
Jinja. At the top of the ravine 
stands a small shrine called Gyb- 
ja-db, where there is a fine image 
of En-no-Shokaku, and where tin 
sandals are hung up by pilgrims 
who pray for the muscular develop- 




FOR MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 



Walks at Xikko. 



201 



ment of their lower limbs. The 
path leading up behind the Gyoja- 
do is that taken for the ascent of 
Xyoho-zan, described on p. 203. 

The Hongil, which stands on an 
eminence near the bridge, is a small 
temple erected by Shodo Shonin in 
A.I). 808, close to the Buddhist 
monastery founded by him. It is 
reached by ascending the stone 
steps that face the end of the bridge 
and then turning to the r. The 
same enclosure contains a three- 
storied pagoda. 

4. — W.AI.KS IN THE XEIGHBOrB- 
HOOD 

1. The Park and other landscape 
gardens ; — all within a few minutes 
of the hotels. 

2. Gamman-ga-fuchi. About 
20 min. walk from the bridge, along 
the course of the Daiya-gawa, is a 
deep pool called Gamman-ga-fuchi. 
A shed stands on a small hill over- 
looking the boiling eddies and op- 
posite to a precipitous rock on which 
is engraved the Sanskrit word 
Hdmman. It seems impossible that 
any one should have been able to 
get across to perform the work, and 
so it is ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who 
accomplished the feat by throwing 
his pen at the rock. But there is 
authority for attributing it to a 
disciple of Jigen Daishi, in the 17th 
century. On the r. bank of the 
river stand some fifty images of 
A mi da ranged in a row, some of 
them, alas ! mutilated forty-five 
years ago by native vandalism, 
others injured by the hand of time, 
which has borne on this neighbour- 
hood with exceptional heaviness. 

These are all that remain of a much 
greater number carried away by various 
floods notably by the dreadful visitation 
of 1902. The largest of the images was 
washed down by a previous flood as far as 
Imaichi, arriving there intact. It now 
stands at the E. end of that town, with its 
face towards Xikko, wearing a pink bib 
and receiving much adoration from the 
country folk. It used to be asserted that 
the images always counted up differently, 
however often the attempt were made. ' 



3. Toyama. The nearest emi- 
nence from which an extensive view 
of the plain can be obtained is 
Toyama, a hill rising up somewhat 
in the form of a huge animal cou- 
chant on the 1. bank of the Inari- 
gawa, which flows down by the 
side of the temples. From the 
bridge to the top is f hr. climb, the 
last bit of the ascent being steep. 
The large mountain seen on the 
extreme 1. is Keicho-zan, one of the 
peaks of Takahara-yama ; directly 
opposite is the long ridge of Haguro- 
yama ; Tsukuba's double peak is 
unmistakable. Turning round, we 
see the whole of the magnificent 
range formed by Xantai-zan, O-Ma- 
nago, Ko-Manago, Xyoho-zan, and 
Akanagi. 

4. Kirifuri-no-taki, or the 
Mist-falling Cascade. By taking a 
wide sweep round the base of 
Toyama and over undulating coun- 
try to the S., this cascade may be 
reached in 1^ hr. A tea-house on 
the hill above commands a good 
view of the fall ; and from the 
top of a knoll just beyond the tea- 
house, a grand prospect is obtained 
of the country towards the E., S., and 
W. A steep and rough path leads 
down to the foot of the fall. 

5. Makkura-daki, or Pitch- 
dark Cascade, so-called from the 
thicket formerly shading it. On 
leaving Kirifuri, we retrace our way 
for a few steps, and then follow 
another path to the r. for about 2 m. 
This crosses the stream above 
Kirifuri three times, and then pass- 
ing over a hill, leads to another 
stream. 

[Just before the first crossing, a 
path down the stream leads in 
2 or 3 min. to a small fall 
called Choji-takL] 

Keeping the stream on the r., a 
short rough climb brings us to 
Makkura-daki, a fall of about 60 ft. 
in height. The best view is obtain- 
ed from a point a few yards up the 
hill to the 1. As the path is easily 



^4*,,,«, 











202 



Route 16.— Nikko and Chuzenji. 



mistaken, it is advisable to procure 
a guide, who will also be able to 
lead one back to Nikko a different 
way. 

6. Jakko (and the Nana-taki 
cascade). The way lies through the 
village of Irimachi, which has an 
Imperial palace at its upper end. 
Here the path turns off at right 
angles just before descending to a 
bridge, from which it is 45 min. 
rough and stony walk further to the 
site of the former temple of Jakko. 
Behind is a cascade, or rather a 
series of falls, altogether about 100 
ft. in height. It goes by various 
names, one being Nana-taki, and 
must not be confounded with the 
other fall of the same name men- 
tioned on p. 203. 

7. Urami-ga-taki, a fine water- 
fall 50 ft high. The road, 1 hr. on 
foot or (by jinrikisha, tram also 
available part of the way) leads, as in 
the previous walk, through Iri- 
machi and up the valley, skirting 
the hills on the r. From the tea- 
house at the entrance to the ravine, 
in which Urami lies, to the fall 
itself is an easy climb of 7 min. 
Urami may also be conveniently 
viisited on the way back from 
Chuzenji, by taking a path which 
branches off 1. a little below Uma- 
gaeshi, and by turning to the 1. 
again at Kiyotaki, where a path 
leads through the woods for a dis- 
tance of about 1 ri to the tea-house 
above mentioned. 

8. Jikwan-no-taki (cascade). 
After crossing the stream at the 
tea-house below Urami, a path will 
be found r. a few yards beyond. It 
leads up the hill, for a little over 1 
mile, to a point where it divides, 
the r. leading to Jikwan, the 1. to 
Nantai-zan. At Jikwan there is a 
pretty effect of water falling in a 
dozen streams over a ledge of rock. 
The view from the top of the fall 
down the valley is very fine. About 
1 m. below Jikwan, and visible 
from a small clearing at the edge 
of the hill on the way up, is another 
fall called Jikwan Hatsune. 



9. Naka-iwa. This excursion, 8 
miles from Nikko, mostly on the flat 
and under shade, affords an oppor- 
tunity of seeing a portion of the 
great avenue, and can be done in 
jinrikisha. Naka-iwa, as the name 
implies, is a huge rock in the middle 
of the river Kinugawa, at a pictur- 
esque part, where the divided 
stream is spanned by two bridges. 
The way lies down the avenue as 
far as the town of Imaichi, whence 
it turns N. along the main road 
leading to the district of Aizu. On 
an eminence close to the bridges 
and overlooking the Naka-iwa, 
stands a tea-house suitable for pic- 
nics. One may also visit the 
curious massive boulders called 
Kago-iwa (" palanquin rocks "), 1 hr. 
further down the 1. bank of the 
river, or 45 min. along the r. bank. 
The latter way sometimes involves 
the fording of a stream. On the 
other hand, it shortens the return 
journey, as the jinrikishas may be 
sent back to the hamlet of Kura-ga- 
saki, which can be rejoined in 45 
min. by a pleasant path through 
the wood from the Kago-iwa direct. 
The railway from Imaichi may be 
availed of on the return to Nikko. 

10. Ascent of Nyoho-zan. 
This is the best, but hardest, of all 
the mountain climbs near Nikko. 
It is a whole day's excursion, and 
an early start should consequently 
be made. There are two ways up, 
one via Nana-taki — ("the Seven 
Cascades,") the other via the Fujimi- 
toge. By the former route, which 
commands the most extensive views, 
an average walker will require 5 J 
hrs., including stoppages, for the 
ascent, and 3 hrs. for the descent. 
Excellent water is found on the S. 
side of the mountain at a spring 
about 50 yards behind and to the 
r. of a log-hut. The way for 
pedestrians leads past the temple of 
Futa-ara Jinja and a shrine called 
the Gyoja-do. Here take a narrow 
track to the 1. through the wood, 
leading, after f hr. easy walking 
with a short climb at the end, to a 



Ascents of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan. 



203 



large stone known as the Sessho- 
sekl, which bears an inscription 
to notify that the slaughter of 
game is prohibited on these hills. 
(The best way for horses and kagos 
leads a short distance over the Jak- 
ko road to a zigzag path clearly 
visible on the hill to the r. and joins 
the path already mentioned at the 
Sesshd-seki.) Right ahead rises a 
peak called Akappori, conspicuous 
by its precipitous face of red vol- 
canic strata. The path continues 
up the grassy spur in front. In 
1J hr. from the Sessh5-selri we 
arrive at the ruins of a hut called 
Happu y near which a rough scram- 
ble leads to a rock at the edge of a 
precipice overlooking a gigantic 
chasm, apparently the remains 
of an ancient crater that has 
been broken away by water on the 
S. E. side, where the Inari-gawa 
has its source. The almost un- 
broken wall of a crater extends 
westward to Akappori. Its present 
floor, out of which descends one of 
the seven cascades that supply the 
Inari-gawa, is high above the 
greater chasm immediately in front 
of us. A projecting spur divides 
the upper from the lower crater, 
and above it on the 1. rises a lesser 
peak named Shakujo-ga-take. The 
falls are seen from the edge of the 
precipice ; and though they are in- 
significant, the walk to this point 
affords splendid views with, in 
autumn, exceptionally beautiful 
maple tints. (The excursion as far 
as Nana-taki and back occupies 
from 5 to 6 hrs.) The path hence 
winds to the 1. not far from the edge 
of the chasm, at first very steeply, 
and then through the wood to a 
large hut in If hr. We are now at 
the foot of the final climb, which 
will occupy not more than f hr. 
more. The summit, on which 
stands a small shrine dedicated to 
Onamuji, is 8,100 ft. high. To the 
N. it commands a magnificent view 
over a sea of lower mountains, 
among which lie the secluded val- 
leys of Kuriyama. To the N. E., 



Nasu-yama is rendered conspicuous 
by the smoke rising from its crater, 
while further N. is seen Bandai-san. 
To the E. is Takahara-yama, which 
also has the appearance of a volcano. 
On the immediate W. of the specta- 
tor is Akakura, merely a continua- 
tion of Nyohd-zan, then Ko-Manago, 
OManago, and Nantai-zan. Be- 
tween Akakura and Ko-Manago, we 
look across to Tard-zan. Senjd-ga- 
hara is partly visible, and beyond 
it the bare volcanic summit of 
Shirane. Further to the S. W. are 
seen Asama-yama, Yatsu-ga-take, 
and numerous other peaks probably 
belonging to the Hida-Shinshu 
range. The upper half of Fuji 
rises S. over the long horizontal 
line of the Chichibu mountains. 
Away in the plain to the E. and S. 
are perceived the broad and deep 
Kinugawa, stretches of the Tone- 
gawa, the vill. of Nikko with 
avenues marking the Nikkd Kaido 
and Reiheishi Kaido, and far away 
on the horizon, Tsukuba-san. 

The way by the Fujimi-toge is 
also beautiful, and offers the ad- 
vantage that a much further dis- 
tance may be ridden and less need 
be walked, as horses go up as far 
as the torii at the entrance to 
the mountain precincts. Leaving 
Nikko, the path turns r. close to the 
tea-house by the stream below 
Urami. For about 4 m. beyond 
Uraini it is rough, — a portion to be 
avoided after dusk. Thence it leads 
for several miles through pleasant 
sylvan scenery, until it enters a 
forest of weird beauty 1J m. from 
the foot of Nyohd-zan. The torii is 
reached in 3 hrs., whence the climb 
by a winding path, mostly under 
the shade of fine trees, occupies 2 J 
hrs. more. 

11. Ascent of Nantai-zan via 
Urami. This is the easiest way of 
making the ascent, though the path 
has been washed away in places. 
It first takes one across the stream 
at the tea-house below Urami, and 
soon turns to the r., climbing up 
through a wood, on emerging from 



204 



Route 16. — Nikko and Chuzenji. 



which Nantai-zan, O-Manago, 
Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi are seen 
in front. After \ hr. walk, we 
cross the dry bed of a river, 
whence up a grassy valley for 
another \ hr., and reach a sign-post 
where a path to the r. diverges to 
Nyoho-zan, while the 1. branch 
ascends and gradually winds to 
the r. Plunging among trees, it 
follows up a deep, thickly-wooded 
gully, and at last comes to a torii 
standing in the depression between 
Nantai-zan and O-Manago. Here 
the path forks, the r. branch pass- 
ing the spot from which O-Manago 
is ascended, and continuing on 
towards Yumoto, while the 1. climbs 
up to the Shizu huts (5,550 ft.), where 
the back ascent of Nantai-zan com- 
mences. Horses may be taken 
from Nikko to this spot; time, 4 
hrs. From Shizu to the summit is 
2,600 ft. further, occupying 2J hrs. 
on foot. The way back by the same 
route is an easy 5 hrs. walk. Those 
intending to return to Nikko, in- 
stead of descending to Chuzenji, 
must make a very early start, as the 
path below Shizu is much broken 
up, and unsafe after dark. 

12. Over the Hoso-o Pass to 
Ashio (see p. 210), and back over 
the Asegato-toge to Chuzenji (see 
p. 206). 

5. — Chuzenji and Neighboukhood. 
kegon watekfall. nantai-zan. 

ASHIO. 

One of the principal points of 
interest near Nikko is beautiful 
Lake Chuzenji. 

Lake Chuzenji lies at the foot of 
Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the 
other sides by comparatively low hills 
covered with trees to their very summit. 
Its greatest length from E. to W. is esti- 
mated at 3 ri, its breadth at 1 ri. Sound- 
ings show the extraordinary depth of 93 
fathoms, shallowing down towards Senju 
and more rapidly towards Kegon. The 
lake, formerly devoid of life, now abounds 
with excellent salmon, salmon- trout, 



iwana, and other fish, with which it was 
stocked between the years 1873 and 
1890 by the government. The salmon 
and salmon-trout can only be taken 
with rod and line, whilst the iwana, a 
species of white trout which never come 
to the fisherman's bait, are taken in the 
nets. Permits for fishing are obtainable 
for a small fee. The height of Lake 
Chuzenji above the sea is 4,375 ft. Several 
small temples add to the picturesqueness 
of its shores. 

The electric tram takes one as far 
as Iwahana in ?5 min. whence the 
road is practicable for jinrikishas 
with two men, not only to the vill. 
of Chuzenji, about 4£ m. beyond the 
tramway terminus or 3 ri 12 cho 
altogether from Nikko, but for 2 ri 
27 cho further on to the hot springs 
of Yumoto. But owing to the 
steepness of the hill which has to 
be passed on the way, ladies and 
persons unable to walk often take 
" chairs " or horses. Persons press- 
ed for time may easily go to Chu- 
zenji and back in one day ; it is 
even possible by making an early 
start, to do the whole distance to 
Yumoto and back within the limits 
of a day. Charming at all times, 
the way from Nikko to Chuzenji is 
seen at its best late in May or early 
in June, when the azalea trees, some 
of which are from 10 ft. to 25 ft. 
high, display their red, white, and 
purple blossoms, and the wistarias 
too are coming into bloom. Another 
glorious time is the second half of 
October, on account of the tints of 
the maples and other trees. 

Leaving Nikkd, the tram crosses 
the Daiya-gawa and passes through 
the upper vill. of Irimachi. Near 
Iwahana there are copper refining 
works connected with the Ashio 
mines (see Route 18), thence the 
way is an easy ascent to the hamlet 
of Uma-gaeshi (fair inn). The river 
which issues from Lake Chuzenji, 
is for most of the year a quiet 
stream ; but at times it becomes a 
dangerous torrent, carrying away 
roads and embankments. For some 
distance onward, the road crosses 
and re-crosses the stream, and owing 
to landslips is difficult to keep in 



Kegon Fall. Ghuzenji. 



205 



repair. Formerly the path climbed 
along the face of the cliff, and was 
impassable even for horses, whence 
the name of Uma-gaeshi (see p. 164). 
The scenery between Uma-gaeshi 
and the Misawa tea-house at the foot 
of the actual ascent, 20 min. walk, is 
wild and picturesque. Leaving the 
rugged gorge, a winding path leads 
up to a narrow ridge, known as 
Ken-ga-mine where a tea-house 
commands a pretty view of two 
cascades called Hannya and Hodo, 
at the head of the ravine to the r. 
From this point the ascent to 
the top, which occupies | hr., is 
arduous. Pedestrians may advan- 
tageously take the numerous short- 
cuts which the old road affords. At 
the charmingly situated tea-house 
called Kaka no Ghaya half-way up, 
the coolies usually make a short halt. 
A local curiosity is the jishaku-ishi, 
or magnetic stone. On reaching 
the summit, a path winds 1. up a 
hill called Miharashi, which affords 
a splendid view of maple-clad 
mountains and the plain beyond ; a 
few min. will suffice. The road 
now passes through a wood of oak, 
birch, and other trees, many of 
which are being killed by the long 
trailing moss called sarugase 
(Lycopodium sieboldi). A path to 
the 1. leads to a platform com- 
manding a fine view of the cascade 
of 

Kegon-no-taki. The height of 
this faU is about 250 ft. In the 
earlier part of the year it occa- 
sionally runs almost dry ; but after 
the heavy summer rains, it shoots 
out over the edge of the over- 
hanging precipice in considerable 
volume. From the little tea-house 
a path leads down to a coign of 
vantage for seeing the fall. A 
grander view of both fall and gorge 
can be obtained by taking a path 
about 2 cho E. of the tea-house. It 
winds down steeply almost to the 
torrent bed, crossing on the way a 
bridge over another fine waterfall 
called Shirakumo (" white cloud") ; 
£hr. 



Chuzenji (*Lake Side Hotel; 
Kome-ya ; Izumi-ya), 

This name, written tf* jip ^ which 
smacks of Buddhism, has been officially 
altered to Chugushi, ff 1 § SI which is 
Shinto ; but the old name is still current- 
ly used. 

which is thronged with pilgrims 
for a few days in July or August, 
the period for the ascent of Nantai- 
zan as a religious exercise varying 
from year to year according to the 
old lunar calendar. As many as 
ten thousand sleep at the vill. 
during those few days. At other 
times it is a quiet place, for which 
reason, and on account of its de- 
lightful surroundings, several of 
the European diplomats have here 
built villas. 

The prettiest walks involving 
little climbing are : — 

1. Along the S. E. shore of the 
lake to Ase-ga-hama. (The summit 
of the Asegata-toge, 15 min. climb 
through the wood, affords an 
interesting view, see No. 5). The 
little peninsula close by, called 
Kozuke-shima, has a pretty shrine. 
Return by boat. 

2. To 8hobu-no-hama, a little more 
than half-way along the N. shore 
of the lake, 45 min. On the way, 
one passes the great scar on 
Nantai-zan, left by the landslip of 
1902. Return by boat. 

3. To a pretty temple at Senju, 
at the W. end of the lake, close to 
an icy brook, — 2| hrs. (Within J hr. 
walk of Senju lies Nishi-no-umi, 
a tarn nestling beneath the wooded 
hills, which at this end recede from 
the lake.) 

The following are expeditions for 
climbers : — 

4. Up the hill opposite Kegon, 
leading to Kobu-ga-hara. On 
reaching the top, 1|- hr., a short 
walk on the level brings one to 
some huge granite boulders called 
Kago-ishi, which command a mag- 
nificent view. This makes an 
alternative way of returning to 
Nikko, by continuing on to the 



206 



Route 16. — Niklcd and Chuzenji. 



summit of the Hoso-o Pass, £ hr., 
where the road from Ashio to Nikkd 
is joined, 8 miles more. 

5. To the Copper-mines of 
Ashio (described in Route 18), 
which lie within the compass of a 
day's excursion from Chuzenji, 
but must be done on foot, the 
path being impracticable for con- 
veyances of any kind. A boat is 
taken across the lake to Ase-ga- 
hama, J hr., whence a climb of 8 
cho leads through a wood to the 
crest of the Asegata-toge, command- 
ing a beautiful prospect. Tier 
upon tier rise the forest-clad ridges 
that close in the valley of the 
Yfatarase. The way down the 
pass, for about 1 J ri, leads through 
narrow valleys between steep and 
scantily wooded hills. A narrow 
path, in portions cut out of the 
cliff side, in others supported by 
planks, has to be traversed before 
entering the valley in which the 
mines are situated. From here it is 
20 min. further to Akakura, the 
upper half of the village, opposite 
which, on the r. bank of the stream, 
stand the various buildings con- 
nected with the mines. 

6. Ascent of Nantai-zan. 
This mountain is considered sacred, 
and the priests of the temple at its 
base insist on the immemorial rule 
whereby women are prohibited 
from making the ascent. Ladies 
can, however, generally go up, 
provided they do not pass through 
the main gate. The temple, which 
stands at the far end of the village, 
is said to have been founded by 
Shodo Shonin in A. D. 816. _ The 
space between the bronze torii and 
the shrine is holy ground, and 
persons in jinrikishas had better 
go along the lower road if they 
object to being required to alight. 
The gate leading to the mountain 
is closed except during the pilgrim 
season, when entrance tickets can 
be purchased for a small sum. The 
ascent, which will take a good 
walker about 2 J hrs., is extremely 
steep, and consists partly of log 



steps which are very fatiguing ; but 
the lovely view from the summit 
(8,150 ft.) well repays the exertion. 
The best time to see it is at sunrise ; 
so a very early start should be made 
with lanterns. On the S. E. lies 
the plain stretching towards Tokyo ; 
on the W. rises the lofty cone of 
Shirane-san ; further S. is Koshin- 
zan ; below we have the marshy 
basin of Senjo-ga-hara, with the 
stream meandering through it, Lake 
Chuzenji, a glimpse of Lake Yu- 
moto, and N.__of Shirane the peaks 
of Taro-zan, OManago, Ko-Manago, 
and Nyoho-zan. Fuji, too, is visible 
in clear weather. The ascent can 
also be made from Yumoto in 5 hrs. 
(see p. 208). 

6. — Yumoto and Neighboubhood. 



The road to Yumoto leads past 
Shobu-no-hana (2| m.), to which 
point boats may be taken, and from 
which Yumoto is 4 m. distant. 
Leaving the lake, we soon cross the 
Jigoku-no-kawa, a slender stream 
which hurries over smooth rocks. 
The Ryuzu-ga-taki, or Dragon's 
Head Cascade, the most curious of 
all the cascades in this neighbour- 
hood, is close by. Beyond it we 
emerge on Senjo-ga-hara, or the 
Moor of the Battle-field. 

So named on account of an engagement 
that took place here in A.D. 1389 between 
the partisans of the Ashikaga Shoguns 
and those of the Southern dynasty of 
Mikados (see p. 72). An alternative name 
is Aka-nama-ga-hara, or Moor of the Red 
Swamp, derived from the colour of the 
tall dying sedges in autumn. 

This wide solitude is bounded on 
all sides by forests, above which 
on the_r. rise the peaks of Nantai- 
zan, O-Manago, Ko-Manago, and 
Taro-zan. For away on the 1. is a 
wooded elevation, in the centre of 
which the cascade of Yu-no-taki 
appears like a silver thread. Above 
this rises the volcano of Shirane- 
san, the only bare peak in the 
vicinity. The irises cluster thickly 
here in July. The road crosses the 



t 



Yumoto. Konsei Pass. Shirane-san. 



207 



plain to a point not far from Yu-no- 
taki, which gushes over a smooth 
black rock at an angle of 60°, form- 
ing the stream that feeds Ryvizu- 
ga-taki, and finally falls into Lake 
Chuzenji. Its perpendicular height 
is 200 ft. A steep path by its side 
leads up to the top, some 60 yds. 
from the shore of Lake Yumoto, 
which is so called from the hot 
springs at its further end. This 
lake, though smaller than Lake 
Chuzenji, is still more beautiful. 
In October, the maples and other 
trees here display the most glorious 
tints that can be imagined. There 
is also some fishing, — chiefly carp. 
The road winds through the wood 
along the E. side of the lake to the 
small yill. of 

Yumoto (Namma Hotel, Europ. 
style, and numerous Jap. inns), 
5,000 ft. above the sea. Here the 
water is partially discoloured by the 
sulphur springs, whose source lies 
just behind the village. Permission 
to catch trout in the river connect- 
ing Lakes Yumoto and Chuzenji can 
be obtained at the Hotel. — Yumoto 
is closed from December to x^pril 
inclusive. 

The following are the best ex- 
cursions and mountain climbs in 
the neighbourhood : — 

1. Kir i gome, a large tarn, lying 
at an altitude of 5,600 ft. among the 
mountains to the N., 1 hr. walk up 
through the forest. Another tarn 
called Karigome, connected with 
it, is difficult of access. Forty min. 
climb beyond Kirigome leads to the 
top of a ridge (6,200 ft.) affording a 
panoramic view of mountains to 
the N.E., including Takahara-yama, 
the Shiobara range, and distant 
Bandai-san. A sharp descent of 1 
hr. leads down a succession of 
torrent-riven gullies, mostly under 
shade, to 2sishi2av:a, where gold 
and silver mining is conducted on 
a small scale. 

2. The Konsei-toge and Lake 
Suganuma, etc. The Konsei- 
toge (1J hr.) is the low pass to the 
"W. of the vill., leading over to the 



province of Kotsuke (see next 
Eoute). The way up is a continuous 
gentle ascent through a forest, the 
lower part of which is strewn with 
bare and fallen tree-trunks, many 
having been swept down by floods, 
others killed by parasitic moss. 
The last part of the climb is steep. 
One hr. out of Yumoto, and close to 
the path 1., stands a small shrine 
dedicated to the phallic worship of 
the god Konsei. The top of the 
pass (6,770 ft.), affords little view; 
but a magnificent one can be ob- 
tained by means of a short scramble, 
for which 15 min. will suffice, up a 
ridge on the 1. and as far as a land- 
slip below the bare, rocky peak of 
Oizuru-yama. At the spectator's 
feet lie three secluded lakes, — Suga- 
numa, Marunuma, and Ojiri-numa 
— nestling in the virgin forest, 
while all around and beyond, rise 
lofty mountain ranges. The de- 
scent from the top of the pass to 
Suganuma (locally known as 
Shimizu) occupies about f hr. It 
affords good fishing for masu and 
iwana. 

To combine the other lakes in 
the excursion makes a long and 
fatiguing day. There is a path 
from the far end of Suga- 
numa connecting them, but it is 
rough, leading through the forest 
and high bamboo grass. On the 
way, glimpses are obtained of a 
waterfall caUed Hatcho-daki (250 ft. 
high). Maru-numa is very pretty, 
its waters being of an intense blue- 
green and its banks lined with 
rockery and ferns. Ojiri-numa 
is the smallest of the lakes. A pic- 
turesque gorge leads hence out of 
the thick forest on to the Higashi- 
Ogawa road, whence 4 ri back to 
Yumoto. 

3. Shirane-san is a volcano 
8,800 ft. high, which was active 
in 1889, discharging ashes in an 
easterly direction as far as Utsuno- 
miya. The climb is very rough 
and steep, and should not be at- 
tempted without a guide. For the 
ascent allow 4£ hrs., (for the 



208 



Route 16. — Nikko and ChuzenjL 



descent, 3 hrs. ; but considerable 
time is needed for a survey of the 
top, so that a whole day is none too 
much for the expedition. There is 
no water on the mountain side. 
The first part of the climb is the 
roughest of all, leading oyer Mae- 
Shir ane (" Front Shirane "), a ridge 
which forms the remnant of an 
ancient crater ring. Within this a 
higher cone was subsequently 
formed, nearly filling up the original 
crater, leaving only the intervening 
valley on its E. side, the bottom of 
which slopes off from the centre 
N. and S. The N. end contains a 
tarn of a remarkable green colour. 
Descending from Mae-Shirane, the 
way leads for J hr. along the ridge 
of the old crater, and then up 
Shirane proper {Oku-Shirane) § hr. 
a steep and rocky climb, to a small 
bronze shrine and torii. The cone 
has a great rent down the side, 
which is kept on the r. in going up. 
At the top is a deep crater whose 
edges are rotten, but which, at 
present, emits no steam. A sur- 
veying station marks the highest 
point, whence the prospect is 
superb, even distant Fuji and 
Asama being sometimes visible. 
An alternative way back to Yumoto 
from Mae-Shirane may be made by 
following the ridges in a N. direc- 
tion to the top of the Konsei-toge. 
Faint traces of a path are found 
in parts. 

4. The way to D-Manago leads 
past the site of an old saw-mill on 
the N. side of the Senj5-ga-hara 
moor. After crossing the road to 
the Nishizawa gold-mine, it branches 
off r. up the torrent bed, and in 
1 hr. we enter a gorge about 1 m. in 
length with cliffs of red pumice 
some 50 to 60 ft. in height. On 
emerging from the gorge, we reach 
an easy path leading for about 1 m. 
through the forest to the Shizu 
huts, and passing on the way a 
ruined hut with several stone 
images. The path to O-Manago 
branches off 1. just before reaching 
the Shizu huts. Some 2 hrs. from 



Yumoto a branch stream 1., marked 
by stone cairns, leads to Taro- 
zan. From the junction of the 
path, it takes £ hr. jto reach 
the torii at the base of O-Manago. 
The _distance to the summit is 1 ri 
8 cho, the real ascent beginning at 
a bronze image of Fudo. The last 
bit is over precipitous rocks, where 
chains are fixed to assist the climb- 
er. On the top stands a wooden 
shrine, with a bronze image behind 
it, said to be Kuni-toko-tachi, the 
Earth-god. The view is less ex- 
tensive than that from Nantai-zau. 

5. Nantai-zan can be ascended 
from Yumoto, _the way coinciding 
with that up O-Manago, nearly as 
far as the Shizu huts (cf. No. 4). 
Time, about 5 hours. 

6. Taro-zan is an arduous ex- 
pedition, big wash-outs and precip- 
itous spots where the foothold is 
precarious having to be overcome. 
The first 2_hrs. coincides with the 
way to O-Manago (see above). 
There is an extinct crater at the 
summit, and many rare Alpine 
plants. It is also marked by a 
shrine and a broken survey cairn. 
Time, 5J hrs. 

Japanese pilgrims make the round 
of the various mountains in the 
vicinity of Nikko and Chuzenji by 
ascending first Nyohd-zan and then 
Ko-Manago, descending to a place 
called Sabusawa, and ascending O- 
Manago from the back. They sleep 
at the Shizu huts, climb Taro-zan 
in the forenoon, Nantai-zan in the 
afternoon, and descend to Chu- 
zenji. 



Route 17. — From Yumoto to Ikao. Konsei Pass. 209 



EOUTE 17. 



Fkom Yumoto to Ikao oveb the 
Konsei Pass. 

Itinerary. 

YUMOTO to :— Ri Chb M. 

Top of Konsei Pass. 1 18 3f 

Higashi Ogawa 4 18 11 

Sukagawa 1 18 3f 

Okkai .. 2 — 5 

Ohara 18 3 

Takahira 1 5 2J 

NUMATA 2 13 5f 

Shibukawa 4 20 11J 

IKAO 2 15 6 

Total 21 7 51# 



On this route an idea is gained of 
the dense forest that covers so large 
a portion of the central mountain 
range ; and the valleys of the Kata- 
shina-gawa and Tonegawa, down 
which most of the latter part of the 
way leads, are highly picturesque. 
The first night is spent at Higashi 
Ogawa, and the second at Numata, 
Ikao being reached on the afternoon 
of the third day. The means of 
transport for baggage on this route 
are : — coolies over the Konsei- toge 
to Higashi Ogawa, horses not being 
taken across the pass; horses to 
Numata, and thence jinrikishas. 
Travellers wishing to return to 
Tokyo without visiting Ikao, can 
join the railway at Maebashi or at 
Takasaki by electric tram from 
Shibukawa (see p. 180). 

For the first 1^- hr. up the Konsei- 
t5ge, see p. 207. The walk down 
the other side of the pass to Suga- 
numa (see p. 207) is rough, but 
hence a good pack-horse road winds 
down the slope and crosses the 
stream connecting Maru-numa and 
Ojiri-numa. It follows the latter to 
its outlet and then through a pictur- 
esque ravine for about 1 ri until it 
finally passes out of the forest. 
During the long descent, trees shut 
out all distant prospect, but some 



pretty glimpses of the lakes far 
below are obtained. A fish-hatchery 
on Maru-numa is the only human 
habitation except a solitary hunter's 
hut near the lower edge of the 
forest. Some way down a torli 
marks the approach on this side to 
sacred Shirane-san. On nearing 
Ogawa no Yumoto, — a few huts with 
thermal springs about 1 ri from the 
vill. of Higashi Ogawa, — the path 
follows a stream flowing down from 
Shirane-san. 

Higashi Ogawa [Inn* Tosui- 
kwan) stands 2,300 ft. above the sea. 
The Ogawa, from which this -vill. 
takes its name, is a small tributary 
of the Katashina-gawa, itself an 
affluent of the Tonegawa. Leaving 
Higashi Ogawa, the route ap- 
proaches the Katashina-gawa and 
diverges to the 1. through a cutting, 
on emerging from which a superb 
view of the river, valley, and distant 
mountains greets the eye. 

Sukagawa stands in the valley 
of the Katashina-gawa, which is 
dotted with hamlets. From a ridge 
at the foot of which he two hamlets 
with curious names, — Hikage Chi- 
dori, or Shady Chidori, and Hinata 
Chidori, or Sunny Chidori, — there 
is a fine view, on looking back, of 
this valley stretching far away to 
the N. The two hamlets are 
situated on opposite sides of the 
stream, and connected by a bridge. 
Observe the terrace-like formation 
of the hills at the back of Hikage 
Chidori, and all the way on to 
below Numata. Three terraces at 
least 2 miles long are distinctly 
marked, each of the lower two being 
a few hundred yards wide, and the 
upper one, surmounted by the 
usual irregular ridge, being from 
J to f m. wide. The course of these 
ridges, which seem to mark the 
successive positions of a river bank 
at different periods, is S.W. by N.E. 
"We next reach 

Okkai (Inn, Yodo-ya) near 
which the river dashes between per- 
pendicular walls of porphyry. A 
hillock behind the inn affords a 



210 



Route 18. — Valley of the Watarase-gawa. 



delightful view of high rocks, with 
trees perched among them and cas- 
cades. There is also a pretty islet 
in the river, called Ukishima. The 
path now leaves the valley of the 
Katashina-gawa, and crossing a 
well-cultivated upland, comes to 

Oliara, whence it winds over the 
hills and up the Kuryu-toge. 
The view from this point is superb, 
including Haruna-san, the Koshu 
Koma-ga-take, Yatsu-ga-take, Asa- 
ma-yama, Yahazu-yama, and the 
Shirane of Kusatsu. From about 
one cho below the summit of the 
pass, a new road (Shindo) winds by 
an easy gradient along the slope 
and, cutting off about 1 mile, rejoins 
the old road at 

Takahira, where basha can be 
availed of. 

Numata {Inn, Maru-sugi) stands 
on a high plateau overlooking the 
valleys of the Katashina and the 
Tonegawa. The view of the latter 
valley from the N.W. corner of the 
town is remarkable, — extensive rice- 
fields far below at one's feet, be- 
yond them the river, and beyond it 
again the mountains of the Mikuni- 
toge. Trout-fishing is carried on 
just below the junction of the two 
rivers, a portion of the water being 
enclosed with stones and fences 
running out from each bank 
towards the centre of the stream, 
where a bamboo platform, inclined 
at an angle of about 15°, is fixed 
upon baskets filled with stones. 
The water rushes up this platform, 
and leaves the fish at the top. 
They are then caught, and kept 
alive in perforated boxes which are 
placed on the platform. The 
scenery onward continues pictur- 
esque, the road passing high and 
rugged cliffs that overhang the 
Tonegawa. Beyond Tanashita, the 
valley expands into a fertile plain, 

[Pedestrians bound for Ikao may 
save over 1 ri by turning off r. 
at the hamlet of Nagasaka, and 
crossing the river at Kanai, 
whence over the moor to Ikao.] 



and the river is lost sight of till near 

Shibukawa (Inn, Yamada-ya). 
This is a town of some size. 
Hence to Ikao is a gentle ascent 
all the way. For a detailed account 
of Ikao and Neighbourhood, see 
Route 13. 



KOUTE 18. 

From Nikko to Ikao via the Cop- 
per Mines of Ashio and the 
Valley of the Watarase- 
gawa. Ascent of K6- 

SHIN-ZAN. 

Itinerary. 

NIKKO to :— Bi Cho M. 

Top of Hoso-o Pass 3 10 8 

ASHIO 4 11 10i 

Sori 2 21 61- 

Godo 2 12 5| 

Hanawa 1 — 2 J 

OMAMA station ... 4 18 ll" 

Total 18 — 44 



From Omama by train in | hr. 
to Maebashi, whence see Eoute 13. 

The road from Nikko to Ashio 
over the Hoso-o Pass, whose sum- 
mit rises 4,100 ft. above sea-level, is 
practicable for jinrikishas. These 
should be engaged at Nikko for the 
whole way (2 days) to Omama, as 
they are scarce and expensive en 
route. Pedestrians may avail them- 
selves of the electric tram and of 
numerous short-cuts on the way up 
the pass. 

The Hoso-o Pass is charming, 
with maple-clad mountains and 
rushing rivulets, ending on the 
Ashio side (about 1 hr. before Ashio) 
in grand river scenery, where the 



Ashio. Koshin-zan. 



211 



road is cut out of a precipice with 
the river Watarase far below. Two 
telpherage lines strike the eye the 
whole way over. They carry copper 
from Ashio to Nikko, and bring 
back coke, provisions, etc., to the 
mines. 

Ashio is the general name of a 
collection of hamlets studding a 
district famed for its copper mines, 
which are the most productive in 
Japan, and are said to be the largest 
in the Far East. It lies at an 
altitude of about 2,300 ft. The 
chief works are situated in a side 
valley off the main road where the 
vill. (Inn, Ch5-5-kwan) mentioned 
below has grown up around the 
mines. The old vill. of Ashio (Inns, 
Tsuruya, Izumi-ya) stands 2 m. 
further down the valley of the Wata- 
rase. The Mines, of which there are 
four, bear respectively the names of 
Honmn, Tsudo, Kotaki, and Sunoko- 
bashi. The greatest distance be- 
tween any of these is 1 ri, and all 
are connected by tramway. The 
hills have been denuded of every 
particle of wood. Gigantic iron 
pipes lead down from neighbouring 
heights to work the turbines, tram- 
ways run in all directions, the bare 
red hillsides are scooped out here 
and there for the houses of the 
miners, the air resounds with the 
clang of hammers, while the huge 
furnaces vomit forth clouds of 
smoke which, on a hot still day, 
hang like a pall over the valley. 
Mato is the name of the lower half of 
the vill. and Akakura, of the upper. 
On the opposite side stands the 
forest of chimneys of the smelting- 
works, together with the main office, 
engine-rooms, workshops, and other 
buildings. 

Electricity of 10,000 h. p. is derived 
from water-power brought by tunnel 
and iron-piping 2,000 ft. long, from the 
Hannya waterfall, near Nikko, 5 miles 
distant. Owing to damage done to the 
crops by the poisonous discharges from 
the mine, and to consequent agitation 
amongst the farmers living along the 
course of the Watarase-gawa, into which 
the stream flows, an ingenious series of 



niters has been fitted up for the purifica- 
tion of the water after it has done its 
work. 

[An extra day at Ashio may well 
be devoted to visiting the 
wonderful rocks of Koshin- 
zan. Accommodation at the 
temple office (Shamusho). Jin- 
rikishas may be taken as far 
as the Kotaki mines, about 
3 m., whence to the point called 
Bessho, 4,500 ft., where the 
rock scenery begins, the dis- 
tance is estimated at 6 m. It 
is necessary to engage the 
services of a guide who lives 
at the hut. The whole round, 
which takes about 2^ hrs., in- 
cludes scrambling up and down 
the steepest places imaginable, 
traversing deep ravines on rough 
log bridges, and crawling round 
the face of precipices by the 
aid of iron chains and of steps 
cut in the solid rock. But it is 
perfectly safe, except for those 
who are apt to be troubled 
with dizziness. The use of 
waraji is recommended. The 
descent from Bessho to the 
huts at the base of the mount- 
ain will take nearly 2| hrs.] 

Notwithstanding deforestation 
along its upper reaches, the scenery 
the whole way along the banks of 
the Watarase-gawa is very 
pretty, and especially between 
Ashio and Godo quite romantic. 
Sometimes hurtling rocks overhang 
the road which itself carried out on 
piles, actually overhangs the river. 
The latter flows on in a perfectly 
placid course, while in other places 
it foams and dashes amidst tremen- 
dous granite boulders. The ox 
tram seen on the opposite side of 
the river connects at Sori with a 
telpherage system over the moun- 
tains to Aicano, which brings down 
wood for the mines. Beyond 

Sori (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a glade 
of fine cryptomerias attests the 
priestly care formerly bestowed on 
the temple of Tenno. The road 



212 



Route 19. — Valley of the Kinugawa. 



then winds up and down the green 
valley, high above the rushing 
waters of the river to 

Godo (Inn, Tama-ya) and 
Hanawa (Inn, Nakachi-ya). The 
vill. seen on the r. bank of the river 
beyond Hanawa is Mizunuma (Inn, 
Midori-ya), from which it is possible 
to ascend Akagi-san by a shorter, 
though rougher, route than that 
given on p. 184. The beauty of the 
route suddenly ceases at Kiribara, 
a hamlet some 10 cho before 
Omama, see p. 191. 



ROUTE 19. 



Feom "Wakamatsu to Nikko by the 
Valley of the Kinugawa. 

[Valley of the Tadami-gawa.] 

(Gf maps facing pp. 97 and 201.) 

For Wakamatsu, see Koute 70. 

This route, lying amongst some 
of the finest river scenery in 
Eastern Japan, is recommended to 
those who wish to diverge from 
the beaten tracks; but the accom- 
modation is indifferent except at 
Tajima and at the hot springs of 
Kawaji, near Takahara. The au- 
tumn foliage from mid-October to 
mid-November is especially beauti- 
ful. The trip will occupy from 2J 
to 3 days. Jinrikishas can be taken 
as far as the Sannb-ya Inn, 1J ri 
beyond Itozawa at the foot of the 
Sanno-toge ; they are not impractic- 
able over the pass, but it is prefer- 
able to go on horseback or on foot. 



Itinerary. 

WAKAMATSU to:— B% Cho M. 

KamiMyori 3 20 8J 

Kuwabara 2 16 6 

Yunokami.. 2 — 5 

Toyonari 1 18 3} 

Tajima 3 18 8| 

Itozawa 2 13 6 

Yokogawa 3 — 7J 

KamiMiyori 1 9 3 

NakaMiyori 1 8 3 

Ikari 1 24 4 

Takahara 2 — 5 

Fujiwara 2 3 5 

IMAIOHI 4 14 10f 

Total 30 35 75} 

After passing Kami Miyori the 
road leads through a beautiful 
gorge of the Tsuruma-gawa. The 
portion most celebrated locally is 
known as Tono-hetsuri, near the 
vill. of Yagoshima, where many 
small shrines in the rock adorn the 
bank of the river. 

Tajima (Inn, Nara-ya) is prettily 
situated in a plain protected by hills 
on all sides. The houses are so 
thatched that the eaves show alter- 
nate bars of black and white. 

[A fine week's trip, especially in 
autumn, of alternate jinriMsha 
riding and walking amongst the 
mountains of Iwashiro may be 
made by diverging to the W. at 
this place, crossing the Koma- 
dome-t5ge (3,500 ft.) to Yama- 
guchi, whence down the deep 
valley of the Tadami-gawa to 
Kawaguchi ( Inn, Kado-ya), and 
back to Wakamatsu via Yana- 
izu. The round trip is approxi- 
mately 128 miles and there is 
good accommodation at the 
villages on the way. The best 
scenery lies between the two 
stages from the vill. of Tadami 
to Kawaguchi and from the 
latter to Yanaizu, the road run- 
ning alorjg the mountain sides 
high above the river, j 



Route 20.—SMobara and Nasu. 



213 



The Sanno-toge (3,150) is not steep. 

[A road leads S. E. over the hills 
from Kami 31iyori (in Shimo- 
tsuke) to Shiobara, about 3 n.] 

The descent on the Shimotsuke 
side leads into the valley of the 
Kinugawa, along which, between 
the villages of Ikari and Fujiwara, 
lies the prettiest part of the route, 
— delightful river scenery as far as 
Takahara. The road descends a 
ravine, and in many parts over-, 
hangs the river, resting on logs 
which project from the rock and 
are supported by uprights. After 
Fujiwara, the country becomes more 
open. The Kinugawa is crossed at 
the Naka-iwa described on p. 202, 
and the road hence leads over lofty 
cultivated upland to Imaichi, on the 
Utsunomiya-Nikko Eailway, for 
which see p. 192. 



ROUTE 20. 



Shiobara and Nasu. 

fubtjmachi. ascent op keicho-zan. 
nasu-yama. 

(Cf. map facing p. 201.) 

Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Yamato- 
ya) reached by the Northern Eail- 
way from Tokyo in 4£ hrs. (see 
Route 69), is the nearest station to 
the various hot spring resorts of the 
district of Shiobara, which are 
much frequented by the Japanese, 
especially in summer. The sur- 
rounding mountains are noted for 
the beauty of the maples and other 
foliage. 



A light railway runs from the 
station across the plain to Sekiya, 7 J 
miles, at the foot of the mountains, 
whence the itinerary of the road 
(basha and jinrikishas available), is 
as follows : 



SEKIYA to:— 

Owami 

Fukuwata 

Shiogama 


m 

... i 


Cho 
18 
24 
13 

8 


M. 

If 
1 


FUEUMACHI... 




i 

"2 


Total 


.... 2 


27 


6f 



Shortly after Sekiya, we enter 
the picturesque valley of the Hoki- 
gawa, with lofty and densely wooded 
hills on either side. At various 
points delightful views are afforded 
of the river rushing over its boulder- 
strewn bed. The Owami springs, 
with a hut or two, are seen from the 
roadway, at the bottom of a pre- 
cipitous descent. They lie in the 
bed of the river, and are used only 
by the poorest class of patients. 

Fukuwata (Inns, *Masuya, 
*Shofur6, and others) is, next to 
Furumachi, the most popular bath- 
ing resort in the district. A few 
min, from Fukuwata, on the opposite 
side of the river, is a spot known as 
Fudo-ga-sawa. With its crystal- 
clear water, its rocks and cascades, 
and a promenade under the shade 
of variegated trees, it produces the 
impression of landscape gardening 
on a large scale. At the entrance 
to the hamlet of Shiogama, a stone 
has been erected to the memory of 
the famous courtesan, Takao, who 
was born near this spot. 

She was mistress of Date Tsunaruune, 
second Daimyo of Sendai who lived in the 
latter half of the 17th century. The 
family broils and crimes, of which this 
particular intrigue formed one link, are 
dramatised in a play called Sendai Hagi. 

Here a bridge crosses the river, 
leading to the hot springs of Shio- 
no-yu, 16 cho, situated in the bed of 
an affluent of the Hokigawa, a place 
chiefly resorted to by poor folks. 



214 



Furumachi. Keicho-zan. 



Furumachi (Inns, Kome-ya, 
Fusen-ro) lies on the r. bank of the 
river, and is the principal vill. in 
the district. It is shut in by moun- 
tains which rise in beautifully 
wooded peaks, one above another, 
around it. Although situated at 
no great height (1,850 ft,), Furu- 
machi is cooler than many places 
at higher altitudes, and suffers less 
from mosquitoes and other insect 
pests. The whole vicinity is dotted 
with thermal springs. The water 
at Furumachi is moderate in tem- 
perature and mostly free from 
mineral deposit; the other springs 
are somewhat saline. A favourite 
midday resort for visitors at Furu- 
machi is Sumaki or Taki-no-yu 
(9 cho), in a hollow of the hills. 
Here the water is led in pipes from 
a spring just above the inn, and a 
hot douche may be taken. Amongst 
the prettiest cascades in the neigh- 
bourhood are : Senshin-no-taki, 
H6kd-no-taki, Baitei-no-taki, and 
Hekireki-no-taki. 

A pleasant excursion may be 
made to Arayu, lit. " the Violent 
Spring," 2 ri from Furumachi. 
The path leads directly behind the 
Kome-ya inn at the head of the 
vill., and over the hills in sharp 
zigzags. Distant views are obtained 
on the way, — an exception to the 
generally shut-in character of all 
this neighbourhood. 

[Near the top of the pass, on t'he 
1., is a tarn called Onuma. A 
smaller, called Konuma, situat- 
ed in a deeper hollow, is not 
visible from the road. A path* 
follows the upper edge of these 
tarns down to the Shio-no-yu 
springs.] 

Arayu, consists of a number of 
mediocre inns, built on the side of 
a hill rendered barren by the 
sulphurous water that bubbles forth 
in several spots, giving the place a 
desolate aspect. It lies on a moun- 
tain road to Nikko. The distances 
are approximately as follows : — 



AEAYU to :— Bi Cho M. 

Fujiwara 5 — 12J 

Okuwa 3 — 7J 

IMAIOHI 1 14 3f 

Total 9 14 23 



Thence train to Nikk5 in \ hr. 
The inns on the way are poor. — For 
the itinerary of another road from 
Shiobara to either Nikko or Waka- 
matsu, see p. 212. 

Arayu is the best starting-point 
for the ascent of Keicho-zan, 3 J 
ri, one of the peaks of Takahara- 
yama (5,880 ft.) a sacred mountain, 
and one of the highest of the 
range separating the provinces 
of Shimotsuke and Iwashiro. The 
climb is somewhat rough and 
monotonous for about 1 hr., all 
view being shut oat by woods and 
low ridges until the bed of the 
Akagawa is reached, where the 
ascent of the Takahara-toge begins 
(40 min.). From the top of the pass 
to the small lake of Benten-ga-ike is 
a distance of 1 ri, and to the summit 
a steep pull of 20 cho more. The 
view thence is extensive, embracing 
Fuji, Nantai-zan, Gwassan, Iide-san, 
Bandai-san, and numerous minor 
peaks. The shrine on Keicho-zan 
is dedicated to Saruta-hiko. Those 
wishing to make the ascent from 
Furumachi in one day must start 
early. An alternative is to take it 
on the way to Nikko. 
. The active volcano of Nasu-yama 
(6,300 ft.) is best reached from 
Kuroiso (Inn, Komatsu-ya) on the 
Northern Eailway, whence basha 
for 4 ri 20 cho (11 m.) to Nasu 
(Inn, *Komatsu-ya), at the moun- 
tain's base, 2,750 ft. above sea-level. 
A good deal of sulphur is produced 
in the neighbourhood. 

The baths of Nasu are very ancient, 
having been established in the reign of 
Jomei Tenno (A.D. 629-641), and enjoy a 
high local reputation for efficacy in skin 
diseases. The inns formerly stood a little 
higher up the river, at a spot called Yu- 
moto, but were removed to their present 
site a few years ago. The Komatsu-ya has 



Route 21. — Provinces of Shimona, Ko.zv.s 



■Via 



211 



been in the same family for over six 
centuries. 

Other bathing resorts on Nasu- 
yama, which is literally honey- 
combed with solfataras, axe Asahi 
Onsen (3,700 ft.), Benten (4,200 ft), 
Omaru, a little farther np, and 
, i on the other side of the 
pass leading to the district of AiztL 
Four cfto from Nasu, in a bleak 
-y : a • .a the ri •■•■;> :,-'.• '"i. or.-;-.- st»d 
Sessho-seki, or "Death-stone," 
famous in a legend which has been 
dramatised as one of the V r . oar 
ic Dramas, of mediaeral Japa- 
nese literature. 

:•:-:; '.," :i_.-: ; -oh- : :u::^;lv i.j:',~:.= 
-.:_■: :-:-.■'. I s.*.-i :..'..: '.: hhoioa o;.;-oo-: V. r •-.-?■:: 
beneath this rock. A spirit forthwith 
appears and warns him that, by remain- 
ing in this place, he is risking his life, for 
hoi: o.: i~~.---.z- -.l'.7 : Vi*. -.---ho V.iri?. aol 
;.-;: :;•; ;h it. The 
= :.h:: 000 :he .!■- : ;-. thoo rer.unt to L;m 
in Terse how once upon a time there lived 
a maiden, as learned and accomplished 
is .-.ho- "■";.-••: =/:::. i.= r: 1. i-'. 7 :-.ei.-::::u: ." " h:.o:. 
the Emperor Toba-no-In took to himself 
for her 
= -.:-:-: o^h: .ovl Oh the -io^O-H -.: =: ; .:e. At 
LiHt .o- ^•-;l;:.;. -_-_ :7v o'.-ji^ioii t: =, 
■ui'ioL".7 
went out, and from the girl r s be 07 there 
darted forth a supernatural coruscation 
that illumined the whole scene, while 
the Mikado himself was struck down toy 
disease. On the representations of the 
'.■-.art r_-.i^::iir. : Ah—Lo-h'i.viziirh theviA 
witch — for the pretended beauty wai 
evidently nothing better than a witch- 
was driven from the Imperial presence, 
and flew away through the air to the 
moor of Xasu, where she resumed hei 
original shape, that of a fox. In the 
■ ■■-.-.■*- : i.:t ;: the r. I^t, the ho::;:. _ 
ing again, confesses to the good priest 
th-t it-iel: : = o.oe ethe: th^^'the —:>;-':. 
of the witch whose story has just beer 
told, and relates furthermore how, aftei 
h-r.r-y.z.2 :: ',_ toe h;.h.:e ; hhe ";,.- hor.te: 
by dogs over the moor of Nasu, — th( 
origin, as the chorus obligingly stops t< 
hiin, of the Japanese sport of inu o\ 
mono, or " dog-hunting." The priest thei 
exorcises the evil spirit by means 01 
Buddhistic incantations. 



The ascent 
ft) will occny 
from Nasu, the last 

over a v. hi ehao.-: 
ar:.or.h':t '^}-i':^ are a 
- .-.: ;.s e:r,er.dia^ to the 
The vie" theaee ir. 
higher peaks of this 
the Nnikd raoont^oa 
Fuji. A huge cloud 
- 
ay. L.;ark..s the 
a:ed by a cU 
directed, ontbra 
itnated on the ^ 
maintain, a little a 



several 01 the ran 
mentioned above. 



Nasu-yama 
a Little onder 



'o.27'i 
3 hrs. 

aahao- 
hdeaa 



springs 



The ba 



ROUTE 21. 

Kazt.sa. avo Bosnia 



The poisonous exhalations which 
from the ground are de- 
rive to insect and bird life. 

commemorate the 



216 Route 21. — Provinces of Shimosa, Kazitsa, and Boshu. 



of rising and drying is still going on. 
The large lagoons on the lower course of 
the Tonegawa gradually shrink in size, 
and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. From 
these considerations it will be inferred 
that the northern parts of this district 
are somewhat dreary travelling. The S. 
portion from Kano-zan downwards, with 
tuff ranges which, though not exceeding 
1,200 ft., seem higher because rising al- 
most directly from the sea, will best 
reward the tourist's trouble. The coast 
of Boshu in particular affords lovely 
views, as well as a mild winter climate. 



1.- 


-Chiba, Choshi, and the 


Lagoons 




The Sobxj Railway. 


Us 


Names 




of 


Remarks 


5" H 


Stations 






TOKYO (Ryo- 






goku-bashi) 




lm. 


Hon jo 




2 


Kamedo 




H 


Hirai 




6 


Koiwa 




H 


Ichikawa 




10 


Nakayama 




m 


Funabashi 




14| 


Tsudanuma 




17| 


Makuhari 




20i 


Inage 


( Change for 


22| 


CHIBA Jet 


J Mobara and 
( Ohara. 


27f 


Yotsukaido 




32^ 


Sakura Jet 


( Change for 
( Narita. 


41 


Yachimata 




m 


Hyuga 




45£ 


Naruto 




49 


Matsuo 




51| 


Yokoshiba 




56^ 


Yoka-ichiba 




591 


Hikata 




621 


Asahi-machi 




64 


Iioka 




&i 


Saruda 




70| 


Matsugishi 




73 CHOSHI 





This whole line traverses flat 
country. Before reaching Ichi- 
kawa, we cross the Yedo-gawa 
where there is often a pretty "view 
of boats sailing up the river. The 
high wooded bluff on the 1. bank is 



Konodai, the seat of a military 
academy. At Nakayama stands 
Hokekyoji, a popular temple devoted 
to the worship of Kishi Bojin (see 
p. 48). 

Funabashi is a large town. 
Image has a bathing establishment 
called KaikL-kwan. 

Chiba (Inns, Kano-ya, Ume- 
matsu-ya) is a prefectural capital. 
This prefecture ranks next to Yezo 
in the abundance of its marine 
products, the district of Ku-ju-ku-ri 
to the S. of Cape Inuboe affording 
the richest field. At Chiba the line 
leaves the coast, and strikes N.W. 
for 

Sakura (Inn, Kome-ya), a garri- 
son town, and Narita (p. 143). 
From Yokoshiba onwards, the 
country is very sandy, yet green, 
owing to cultivation and pine- 
woods. 

Choshi (Inn, Daishin, over 1 m. 
from the station) extends for 2 J m. 
along the r. bank of the Tonegawa, 
which here contracts, and rolls be- 
tween sharp rocks into the sea. 
The Temple of Kwannon, crowning 
an eminence which divides the 
town into two halves, commands 
an agreeable prospect. Choshi is 
noted for its soy, the manufacture 
of which may be seen at Tanaka 
Gemba's establishment, which 
supplies the Imperial Household. 
The chief occupation of the inhabi- 
tants is fishing. Immense quanti- 
ties of iwashi, a fish resembling the 
pilchard but smaller, are caught 
here and all along the coast. They 
are boiled in huge cauldrons to 
obtain the oil, which is used for 
lamps ; and the residue, dried in 
the sun, is sent inland for manure. 
The odour may be better imagined 
than described. Choshi has also, of 
late years, become an important 
whaling centre. 

Visitors to this portion of the 
coast wiU find it pleasanter to put 
up at Gape Inuboe, 1 ri 18 chb from 
Choshi station. There is a good 
inn, the Gyokei-kwan, situated in a 
small bay close by the lighthouse, 



The Lagoons. Rashima. 



217 



and much frequented during the 
summer months. The whole coast 
called Ku-ju-ku-ri no hama, stretch- 
ing S. from Choshi, is flat, sandy, 
and uninteresting. 

Travellers desirous of seeing 
something of the large lagoons on 
the lower course of the Tonegawa, 
might vary the return to Tokyo by 
taking steamer up the river to O- 
funatsu on the Kita-ura lagoon, 
thence also by steamer to Tsuchi- 
ura on the Kasumi lagoon, and 
home by train in 2 J hrs. There is 
daily communication. 

The lagoon called Kita-ura is 6 ri long 
from N. to S. and 1 ri wide. Kasumi-ga- 
ura is 36 ri in circuit and of a very 
irregular shape. Its shores are flat and 
well-wooded. The island on the S.E. side 
is called UJcishima. Pearls are found in 
the vicinity. 

The vill. of Ofunatsu (Inn, Dai- 
koku-in) stands near the S. extremi- 
ty of the Kita-ura lagoon, 18 cho by 
jinrikisha from the ancient temple 
of Kashima, a noted pilgrim 
resort. A broad avenue leads to the 
temple, which is surrounded by a 
grove of fine cryptomerias. 

The name Ka-shima means " Deer Is- 
land ;" but the district is an island no 
longer, and the deer are extinct. The 
temple is usually said to have been 
founded in the " Age of the Gods," and 
certainly dates from the prehistoric 
epoch. The yearly festival takes place 
on the 9th March ; a greater festival once 
in thirteen years, the last occasion having 
been the 1-3 Sept. 1906. 

A small enclosure behind con- 
tains the Kaname-ishi, or "pivot 
stone," supposed to be a pillar 
whose foundation is at the centre 
of the earth. This, though cele- 
brated, is insignificant as a sight, 
as one sees nothing but a few 
inches of stone. 

One account is that under this spot lies 
confined the gigantic fish called namazu, 
whose contortions are the cause of earth- 
quakes, and that the stone acts as some 
restraint on the creature's movements. 
Mitsukuni, the second Daimyo of Mito, is 
said to have dug round it for six days 
without finding the lower end. 



About 1 m. from the temple is a 
stretch of moorland called Takama- 
no-hara, literally, " the Plain of High 
Heaven," where the gods are sup- 
posed to have assembled in days of 
yore; but, according to Mr. W. G. 
Aston, the name is nothing but a 
poetical synonym for " the sky." 

A canal connects the jtwo big 
lagoons. The trip from Ofunatsu 
to Tsuchiura (see p. 222) occupies 
about 6 hrs. The mountain con- 
stantly seen ahead is Tsukuba. 

2. — Theough the Peninsula to 

Katsu-ura, and round the S. and 

W. Coasts to Kominato, Noko- 

GERI-YAMA, AND KANO-ZAN. 

This makes a good winter trip 
either on foot or by jinrikisha, as 
the climate is mild and the ac- 
commodation good. There being 
steam communication daily with 
Tokyo from Katsu-ura, Amatsu, 
Hojo, and the various villages on 
the W. coast of the peninsula, 
travellers wishing to curtail their 
journey can do so at almost any 
point. 

The first stage is by train to Chi- 
ba, whence by another line,— that 
running to Ohara (Inn, Katsuo- 
kwan.) on the E. coast, — as far as 
Mobara. The itinerary onwards is 
as follows : — 

MOBAKAto:— Ri Cho M. 

Chonan 2 — 5 

Odaki 3 20 8f 

Katsu-ura 5 16 13J 

Kominato 3 21 8J 

Amatsu 1 3 2J 

Kamogawa 1 27 4J 

Emi 2 12 5| 

Wada 17 3 

Matsuda 1 18 3| 

Shirako 1 5 2J 

Asahina 33 2\ 

Shirahama 2 27 5J 

Mera 1 34 4f 

TATEYAMA 2 20 6£ 

Hojo 13 J 

Kachiyama 4 6 10J 

Hota 33 2| 



218 Eoute 21. — Provinces of Shimosa, Kazusa and Boshu, 



Kanaya 1 8 3 

Take-ga-oka 1 21 4£ 

Tenjinyama (Minato) 34 2| 

Kan5-zan 3 — 7 J 

KISAKAZU 4 23 11J 

Total ....< 48 31 119J 



From Mobara southwards to .the 
coast the road leads through numer- 
ous small valleys, cultivated and 
well-wooded. 

Chonan (Inn, Kqji-ya). The 
Temple of Kasamori, dedicated to 
the Eleven-faced Kwannon, 1 ri 
from this town by jinrikisha, is a 
curiosity worth turning aside to see. 
It stands among patriarchal pines 
and cryptomerias, and is built on a 
platform resting on the point of an 
irregular conical rock some 50 ft. 
in height, the edges being supported 
by stout wooden scaffolding. Three 
nights of stairs lead to the top. 
Of the numerous votive offerings 
brought by rustic worshippers, the 
most touching are suits of tiny 
children's dresses hung up in glass 
cases. There is a fair inn at the 
bottom of the hill on which the 
temple stands. 

The holy image here worshipped, say 
the temple records, was carved out of 
camphor wood by Dengyo Daishi ; and 
though the minor buildings have been 
burnt down at various times, the main 
shrine, which dates from the year 1028, 
subsists unhurt to this day, — a proof of 
the goddess's special grace. The annual 
festival is celebrated on the 17th August. 

Retracing our steps to Chonan, 
we_next reach _ 

Odaki (Inn, Odaki-ya), a fair- 
sized country town. On approach- 
ing the coast, the road becomes 
smooth and firm. It has been cut 
out of the low rounded hills formed 
of sea sand which characterise this 
region, while the intervening val- 
leys have been filled in and built 
up to the necessary level. The sea 
comes in sight just before reaching 

Katsu-ura (Inn, Katsu-ura Ho- 
tel), a clean and thriving little sea- 
port town. The temple crowned 



hill above it commands an ex- 
tensive view. 

The fishermen all along the coast of 
these provinces of Kazusa and Boshu 
occasionally wear gorgeous gowns ad- 
orned with stamped coloured designs of 
the rising sun, birds, fishes, singing-girls, 
etc. These are rewards bestowed by 
their employers on the occasion of large 
catches, and are brought out on high 
days and holidays. 

Turning westward, it is a 
pretty walk hence along the coast, 
with Gape Nojima standing out 
clearly in the distance. Consider- 
able tunnelling through the soft 
Hmestone rock, and cuttings in the 
cliffs, save many ups and downs on 
the way. The long vill. of 

Kominato ( Inn, Seikai-ro ) 
fringes the shores of a small bay. 
The western part is Kominato 
proper, the eastern is called Uchi- 
ura, at the entrance to which stands 
a temple famous throughout Japan 
as the birthplace of the great Bud- 
dhist saint, Nichiren (see p. 80). 

According to some, the original site of 
the temple founded by Nichiren himself 
on the very spot which gave him birth, is 
now under a stretch of sea called Tai-no- 
ura, said to be the resort of numbers of 
tai fish, which are held sacred by the 
fishermen. Another tradition is that 
from the day of the saint's birth uDtil he 
was seven days old, two of these fish five 
feet long used daily to appear in the pond 
in his father's garden, whence the spot, 
since covered by the waves, took its 
name of " Tai Bay." 

The temple raised to the memory 
of Nichiren is called Tanjoji, or the 
Temple of the Birth. The main 
temple is an unpainted wooden 
building, 72 ft. square inside, erect- 
ed in 1846. The porch has some 
excellent carvings of tortoises and 
lions' heads. The birds in the 
brackets of the transverse beams 
and the dragons above are 
also good. The interior is 
simple, its only decoration being 
four large panels carved with 
dragons, and a coffered ceiling 
with the Mikado's crest painted in 
each compartment. On the altar 
stands a handsome black and gold 



Temple of Kiyosumi. Tateyama. 



219 



shrine containing a life-like image 
of the saint, who is represented as 
reading from a richly gilt scroll. 
The doors of the shrine are 
kept closed except during service, 
when they are thrown open in 
order that worshippers may gaze 
upon Nichiren's countenance. 

To the r., jnst inside the outer 
gate, is a small square building over 
the well which nominally supplied 
the water (tanjo-sui) used to wash 
the infant saint, — nominally only, 
because the original spot was 
overwhelmed by a tidal wave in 
A.D. 1498.— The annual festival 
takes place on the 12th and 13th 
days of the 10th moon, old style. 

Amatsu (Inn, Abura-ya at the 
W. end) is another very long vil- 
lage, and a better place to stay at 
than Kominato. 

A little more than 1 ri due N. 
of Amatsu, and approachable by 
jinrikisha, stands the mountain vill. 
of Kiyosumi (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), 
1,090 ft. above the sea, celebrated 
for its temple to Kokuzo Bosatsu. 
The way leads up through pine- 
woods, which cover the hills as far 
as the eye can reach. The hand- 
some main shrine contains some 
good carvings of Buddhist deities. 
Its site too is remarkably beautiful, 
giant cryptomerias sheltering the 
grounds. The small eminence 
close by the temple commands a 
glorious prospect, both landward 
and seaward. The invigorating air 
and the absence of mosquitoes 
attract many Japanese visitors 
during the summer. 

[From Kiyosumi, a direct road 
through pine-woods cuts due 
W. across the peninsula to Hota, 
about 10 ri.] 

Kamogawa [Inn, Yoshida-ya) is 
a place of some size. The chief 
object of interest on this part of the 
coast is Xiemon-jima, a tiny islet off 
Cape Nabuto. The road passes 
within a few cho of the ferry. 

During a reverse of fortune, Yoritomo 



was assisted by one Niemon, and shelter- 
ed in a cave on this islet. When he rose 
to supreme power, he granted the sole 
possession of the islet (no wide domain 
certainly) to his benefactor, whence its 
present name. 

From here on to Emi ( Inn, Koike- 
ya) and beyond, daffodils and other 
flowers abound near the sea-shore, 
and fill the air with their fragrance 
at Christmas time. 

Matsuda (Inn, Kawa-gishi). 

[Here there is a short cut across 
the small province of Boshu at 
its narrowest part to Hojo, 3 ri 
25 cho.] 

Some tepid mineral water is led 
into Chigura Onsen (whence its 
name), in the township of Asahina. 

[At Shirahama, again a road cuts 
across to Hojo, about 3 ri.] 

On the low headland of Nojima, 
stands a fine lighthouse, whose 
light is visible for 20 miles. During 
this part of the way Vries Island 
remains constantly in view, with its 
pillar of smoke by day and fire by 
night. 

Near Mera stands another light- 
house. Fishing-boats put out in 
large numbers during the season to 
catch bonitos around Vries Island 
and the other isles of Izu. Su-no- 
saki, lit. "sand cape," deserves its 
name, and the way round it is not 
recommended. Our inland route 
leads by a finely graded road to 

Tateyama and Hojo (Inns, 
*Kimura-ya, *Yoshino-kwan). 
These two towns are practically 
continuous, being only separated 
by a small stream. Hojo com- 
mands an incomparable view of 
Fuji across the sea. Nowhere else 
does the mountain seem to rise to 
so great a height, completely dom- 
inating the Oyama and Amagi 
ranges which extend r. and 1., 
while on either hand the shores 
of the bay stretch round to form 
a fitting frame for this lovely 
picture. The little bay of Tate- 



220 Route 21. — Province of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. 



yama is known in Japanese as 
Kagami no ura, or " Mirror Keach," 
and has become a favourite bathing 
resort. 

A steamer leaves Hojo daily for 
Tokyo at about 10 a.m., calling at 
several places along the coast of 
Boshu and Kazusa, and reaches 
Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favourable 
circumstances. Another leaves 
about noon, calling at Uraga. 

A good jinrikisha road leads along 
the coast through Kachiyama (Inn, 
Hinamatsu-ya), Hota, and Motona, 
the two latter being continuous. 
The climb up Nokogiri-yarna 
from Motona, and the descent to the 
same vill. will occupy about ljhr. 
This mountain takes its name, 
which means "Saw Mountain," 
from the serrated ridge of peaks that 
follow each other in regular grada- 
tion, from the highest on the E. 
down to the sea-shore. Bound the 
promontory thus formed, passes the 
highway to Kanaya (poor inn). Scat- 
tered over the south side of the 
mountain are the remains of a set 
of stone images of the Five Hundred 
Bakan, many of them now headless 
or otherwise mutilated. Besides 
these, there is a pretty shrine hewn 
out of the living rock, with a stone 
effigy of the person to whose initia- 
tive [the carving of the other five 
hundred images was due. 

Tunnelling characterises this sec- 
tion of the road onwards for several 
miles. 

Tenjin-yama, also known as 
Minato (Inn, Suiryo-kwan). This 
prettily situated place contains a 
few sake breweries and soy manu- 
factories. About 1 m. off rises Myd- 
ken-yama. The way now ascends 
the valley of the Minato-gawa to 
Sakurai (not to be confounded with 
a similarly named vill. near Kisarazu 
mentioned in next col.), and thence 
up the slopes of Kano-zan. The 
vill. of 

Kano-zan (Inn, Marushichi), 
stands on the top of a mountain of 
the same name, which, rising to a 
height of 1,260 ft. on the borders of 



Kazusa and Boshu, forms a con- 
spicuous object in the view across 
Tokyo Bay. The inn faces W., and 
commands a superb prospect : — 
below, the blue waters of Tokyo 
Bay, beyond which rises Fuji ; to 
the L, the Hakone range ; to the r., 
the Oyama and Tanzawa ranges; 
and further N. the Nikkd moun- 
tains, Akagi-san, and Tsukuba. 
Even more comprehensive is the 
view from the hill just below the 
inn, used as one of the principal 
trigonometrical survey stations of 
Japan. Among the prettiest walks 
at Kano-zan is one to a waterfall, 
35 ft. in height, 1 mile from the vill. 
The volume of water is small ; but 
the basin into which it falls is 
curious, having rocks on either side 
coming together like the bow of an 
ironclad. 

A 10 min. walk, affording a view 
unique in its way, is as follows : — 
Passing through the lower street 
of Kano-zan towards the E., we 
reach 1. a flight of 218 stone steps, 
at the top of which stands a small 
Shinto shrine. This is the highest 
point of the mountain ; but, being 
overgrown with lofty trees, offers no 
view. Opposite the steps on the 
r., a short path leads to the brow 
of the hill, whence there is a fine 
prospect towards the E. and S. 
The side of the mountain here 
slopes away abruptly; and below, 
as far as the eye can reach, lie low 
but sharp ridges covered with 
brushwood, intersecting and meet- 
ing so as to form a multitude of 
tiny valleys. The view from this 
point has therefore received the 
name of Ku-ju-ku Tani, or the 
" Ninety-nine Valleys." 

The descent to the foot of Kano- 
zan is about J hr. walk, whence 
through rural scenery to Sakurai, 
a small vill. 22 cho from the 
flourishing port of 

Kisarazu (Inn, Torikai). From 
here there is daily steam com- 
munication with Tokyo (see p. 
112) ; also with Yokohama in about 
3 hrs. The boats leave Yokohama 



Route 22. — Tixe East Coast Railway. 



221 



in the morning, and return the 
same afternoon. A short line of 
railway connects this place with 
Soga and Chiba. 



ROUTE 22. 

The East Coast Railway. 

(Cf. Eastern and Northern 
Japan Maps.) 

from t5ey5 to mito, and along 
the coast to taira and sendai. 





Karnes 




a a ►> 








of 


Remarks 




Stations 






TOKYO (Ueno) 




l£m. 


Nippori 




2£ 


Mikawashima 




H 


Minami Senju 




4| 


Kita Senju 




71 


Kaineari 




8| 


Kanamachi 




101 


Matsudo 




131 


Mabashi 




1*4 


Kashiwa 




20f 


Abiko Jet 


For Narita 


24| 


Toride 




281 


Fujishiro 




29£ 


Sanuki 




321 


Ushiku 




37 


Arakawa-Oki 


( Alight for 


41 


Tsuchi-ura 


J Tsukuba, see 


441 


Kandatsu 


( p. 115. 


49 


Takahama 






Ishioka 




Hatori 




08^ 


Iwama 




62f 


Tomobe Jet 


For Oyama 


65| 


Uchihara 




691 


Akatsuka 




73 


MITO 




791 
821 


Sawa 




Ishigami 




862 


Omika 




89| 


Shimo-Mago 




921 


Sukegawa 




98| 


Kawajiri 




102£ 


Takahagi 




108 


Isohara 





[1121 


Sekimoto 




115£ 


Nakoso 




118 


Ueda 




122£ 


Izumi 


(RoadtoShira- 


126i 


Yumoto 


} kawa on the 


128f 


Tsuzura 


( Northern Ry. 


131£ 


TAIRA 




1311 


Kusano 




137^ 


Yotsukura 




1104 


Hisa-no-hama 




145f 


Hirono 




1491 


Kido 




1551 


Tomioka 




161f 


Ono 




1651 


Nagatsuka 




1681 


Namie 




173f 


Kotaka 




177 


Iwaki-6ta 




179f 


Harano-machi 




1841 


Kashima 




1921 


Nakamura 




1971 


Shinchi 




201 


Sakamoto 




2061 


Yoshida 




2091 


Watari 




214£ 


IWANUMA Jet. 





This line, traversing the prov- 
inces of Shim5sa, Hitachi, and 
IwaM, joins the Northern Railway 
(Route 69) just south of Sendai, 
and thus affords an alternative 
route for the traveller proceeding 
northwards. 

Running through the rice plains 
that surround T6ky5 and Mito, it 
then passes along the narrow strip 
of cultivated ground bordering the 
Pacific Coast, which it closely skirts 
most of the way to Taira. Inter- 
esting glimpses are obtained of 
some of the lagoons connected 
with the Tonegawa; and although 
the coast line is sandy and mono- 
tonously straight, the breakers and 
occasional rocky inlets, with fish- 
ing villages here and there, lend 
variety and colour. In the section 
north of Taira, the Iwaki hills 
stretch in one low, unbroken line 
on the 1. almost all the way to 
Iwanuma. The railway runs mid- 
way between the hills and the 
coast, and beyond Tomioka station 
the sea rarely comes in sight. 

Diverging from the Northern 
Railway at Nippori, the line strikes 
due E., passing through Senju, an 
extensive suburb of Tokyo. After 



222 



Route 22. — The East Coast Railway. 



crossing the Nakagawa and Yedo 
gawa, it turns northwards, and 
reaches the main stream of the 
Tonegawa, which is spanned by a 
long iron bridge at 

Toride (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), a 
cleanly town on its 1. bank. The 
Ushiku-nurm, seen to the 1. beyond 
Fujishiro, is a long, narrow, and 
shallow lagoon. Tsukuba-san, with 
its twin peaks, also comes in sight 
1. before 

Tsuchiura (Inn, Matsu-ya), 
which stands at the W. end of 
Kasumi-ga-ura (see p. 217), the 
largest of the lagoons. Small steam- 
ers start every morning, and call 
at the villages scattered along the 
shore. 

As the train approaches Mito, a 
number of cavities are seen on the 
1. in the high bluff on which a 
portion of the town is built. These 
galleries were hollowed out for the 
sake of the blocks used in the 
manufacture of soft-stone furnaces. 

Mito (Inns, Mito Hotel, at 
station; Shibata-ya, semi-Europ.), 
the principal town of the province 
of Hitachi and capital of the 
prefecture of Ibaraki, lies some 
3 ri inland from the shore of the 
Pacific Ocean, on rising ground in 
the midst of a wide plain. The 
town is in three divisions, the 
Lower Town, the Upper Town, and 
the Castle Enclosure which lies 
between the other two. The castle, 
where formerly dwelt the lords of 
Mito, is picturesquely situated on 
the crest of the high ground that 
rises from the plain. The defences 
consisted of deep trenches on the 
upper town side, and lofty banks — 
the edge of the hill in fact — on the 
other, with a small moat below. 
Three large gates and one tower 
still remain. It is worth while walk- 
ing round the castle and under the 
beautiful trees within the grounds. 
The large Garden, known as Tokiwa 
Koen, on the W. of the upper town, 
overlooking the mere of Semba, is 
also prettily situated. 



It was laid out some sixty years ago by 
Rekko, lord of Mito, as a retreat for 
himself after handing over the cares of 
government to his successor. See p. 79 
for the part played by this noble house 
in the modern history of Japan. 

A good view is obtained from the 
summer-house in the garden, where 
men of letters formerly assembled 
to write verses and practise calli- 
graphy. The staple manufactures 
of the province are cloth and paper. 
Tobacco is also made into cigarettes 
in large quantities, and a consid- 
erable export trade is carried on in 
both salt and fresh- water fish. 

The visitor with time to spare 
may run out by jinrikisha to the 
pleasant sea-side hamlet of Oarai 
(Bin, Kimpa-ro), 3 ri. 

A short line of railway connects 
Mito with Ota, an important town 
some 14 m. to the N. 

Yery little of the town of Mito is 
visible from the train, which merely 
skirts the S. and E. suburbs. 
Leaving it, we cross the Nakagawa, 
noted for its salmon, and in f hr. 
approach the Pacific Coast at Omika. 
Sukegawa has good inns situated 
close to the shore. The ancient 
highway will often be distinguished 
on the r. by its avenue of pine-trees. 
There are two pretty pieces of sea- 
beach on this section visible from 
the carriage windows, — one at Iso- 
hara, where the small promontory of 
Tempi-san, with its fine trees and 
rocks, recalls Enoshima in minia- 
ture, and another near 

Nakoso (Inn, O-un-kaku), close 
to the boundary of the provinces of 
Hitachi and Iwaki. At Nakoso also 
stood in ancient times one of the 
barriers erected by government in 
days when the object was, not to 
encourage travel, but to impede it. 
This spot was immortalised in verse 
by Minamoto-no-Yoshiie (p. 73, 
under Hachiman Tar5), while on 
his way back from conquests in the 
north. 

Every lover of Japanese poetry knows 
the lines by heart. They run thus :— 



Taira. The Province of Iwaki. 



223 



Fuku Jcate ivo 

Nakoso no seki to 
Omoedomo 

Michi mo se ni chiru 
Yama-zakura kana I 

which may be Englished as follows : — 

" Methought this barrier, with its gusty- 
breezes, was a niere name ; but lo ! the 
wild cherry-blossoms nutter down so as 
to block the path." 

The railway leaves the sea near 
JJeda, to strike in amongst a maze 
of conical hills, which has neces- 
sitated much tunnelling. 1 ri 13 
cho from Izumi lies the little port 
of Ona-hama, almost the sole place 
of refuge on this inhospitable coast. 
Two miles to the N.W. of 

Yumoto (Inn, Shohaku-r5, with 
hot mineral baths), are the coal- 
mines of Onoda, near Yunotake 
(2,060 ft.), a conspicuous peak. 

Taira (Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya), situ- 
ated in a basin enclosed on every 
side by low hills, is the only town 
N. of Mito of any importance on 
this line. 

[Though the Province of Iwaki 

offers few attractions, the fol- 
lowing itinerary from Taira to 
Koriyama on the Northern 
Kail way is given for the benefit 
of such as may desire to traverse 
it. The road mostly leads N.W T . 
up the course of the Natsui- 
gaica (charming in autumn with 
the maples lining its banks), 
and is practicable for jinriki- 
shas. The best stopping-places 
are Ono-Niimachi and Miharu, 
the latter town being con- 
nected with Koriyama by tram- 
way. 

Itinerary. 

TAIRA to:— Pa Cho M. 

Uwadaira 2 23 6} 

Kawamae 4 20 11J 

Ono-Niimachi 4 14 10 J 

Kadosawa 3 16 8} 

Miharu 3 8 8 

KORIYAMA 3 11 8 

Total 21 20 52}] 



Between Yotsukura and Hirono 
lies the most picturesque portion of 
this railway. Spurs of the hills 
run down to the shore; and 
as the train emerges from the 
tunnels that have been cut through 
them, delightful sea views appear 
at every opening. In the vicinity 
of Hirono some coal-mining is 
carried on, Tunnelling continues 
at intervals on to Namie, whence 
for many miles low hills project in 
all directions like tiny peninsulas, 
and the intervening valleys are 
cultivated with rice. These give 
place after Hara-no-machi (Inn, 
Maru-ya), which is a fair-sized town, 
to an alternation of pine- woods and 
paddy-fields. 

Nakamura (Inn, Ise-ya). The 
hamlets of Matsukaica-ura (Inn, 
Ise-ya) and Haragama (Inn, Toyo- 
kwan) lie 1 ri 8 cho and 1 ri 20 cho 
respectively in the same direction 
from this station, with excellent 
sea-bathing and pretty scenery. 
Matsukawa-ura stands on a large 
lagoon, separated from the sea 
by a long strip of sandy beach. 
Tiny islets covered with pine-trees 
dot the lagoon, whose shores are 
also lined with fine old specimens 
of the same tree. Haragama is on 
the sea-coast. These places are 
crowded with visitors during the 
summer season. 

On leaving Shinchi, where we 
obtain our last peep of the sea, the 
double rows of pine-trees planted to 
screen the fields form an unusual 
feature in the landscape. Soon the 
Iwaki hills draw in a little ; and on 
passing Yoshida, a rice plain stret- 
ches away to the north. The vide 
sandy bed of the Shiroishi-gawa is 
crossed just before entering the 
junction of 

Iwanuma (see Route 69). 



SECTION II. 
CENTRAL JAPAN. 

(Routes 25 — 46. 



D E N T 


HAL JAPAN 












* 

V 

*» 

^ 
s 








i 




' 


j^/ 


KlA- 


r ? h i 2 r N 













^Ll 




Route 2S.—The Tokaido. 



227 



EOUTE 23. 



The Tokaido by Baib fbom Tokyo 
to Kyoto and Kobe. 

fbom okitsu to shizuoka yia the 
temples of kuno-zan. wateb- 
fall of yobo. 



o 


Names 




pi s >» 






■pSsg 


of 


Remarks 


fi H 


Stations 






TOKYO (Shim- 




Miles. 


bashi) 




3} 


Shinagawa 


\ 


6 

10 


Omori 


rSee Route 3. 


Kawasaki 


121 


Tsuruuii 




16} 


Kanagawa 


) 


17 


Hiranunia 




18 


YOKOHAMA 


\ See bottom p. 
( 223. 


20£ 


Hodogaya 




28 


Totsuka 


( Change for 


29£ 


OFUNA Jet ... . 


< Kamakura & 


32| 


Fujisawa 


( Yokosuka. 


37 


Chigasaki 


(Alight for_as- 


40} 


Hiratsuka 


< cent of Oya- 


42 3 


Oiso 


( ma (p. 108). 


46 4 


Ninomiya 


/Alight for 
J Miyanoshita, 
| Hakone, and 


49 


KOZU 




55} 


Matsuda 


' Atami. 


583 


Yamakita 




64} 


Oyama 




71 


Grotemba 


( Alight for as- 
( cent of Fuji. 


801 


Sano 


831 


Mishima Jet .... 


(Change for 
( Shuzenji. 


" 




861 


Numazu 




90£ 


Hara 


/Travellers 


96 


Suzukawa 


1 from the west 
1 alight for 


98} 


Fuji 


I Fuji. 
(Alight for 


101} 


Iwabuchi 


I Minobu (Rte. 
( 30). 


104} 


Kambara 


110} 


. Okitsu 


f Excursion to 
( Kuno-zan. 




113£ 


Ejiri 




120} 


SHIZUOKA 




128} 


Yaizu 




132J 


Fujieda 




137 


Shimada 




140* 


Kanaya 




146 


Hori-no-uchi 


1 



| 150J 


Kakegawa 




156 


Fukuroi 




160f 


Naka-izumi 


Travellers 
( down rapids 










of Tenryu" 


165 


Tenryu-gawa 


J & bound E., 
i enter . train 
here, but ex- 
press does 
V not stop. 

/ Tenryu travel- 


167| 


HAMAMATSU .. 


J lers for the 
1 W. enter train 


174 


Maizaka 


I here. 


179 1 


Washizu 




186 


Futagawa 




1901 


Toyohashi 


(Branch to 
[ Toyokawa. 


195f 


Goyu 


201 


Kamagori 




210 4 i 


Okazaki 




2151 


Anjo 




2201 


Kariya 








(Branch to 


2231 


Obu 


< Handa and 


227f 


Otaka 


( Taketoyo. 


232} 


Atsuta 


(Change for Ise 


2351 


NAGOYA Jet.... 


< and Kwansai 


2371 


Biwajima 


241f 


Inasawa 




246 


Ichi-no-miya .... 


Branch to Ise. 


2491 


Kisogawa 




2541 


GIFU 




258 


Hozumi 


(Branch to 


263 

268 


Ogaki 


J Yoro and 
( Kuwana. 


Tarui 


2711 


Seki-ga-hara 




276 


Kashiwabara 




278£ 


Nagaoka 




2311 


Samegai 


(Change for 


2851 


MAIBARA Jet. . . 


< Nagahama & 
( Tsuruga. 


289 


Hikone 




292| 


Kawase 




297£ 


Notogawa 




302* 


Hachiman 




308£ 


Yasu 




3131 


KUSATSU Jet... 


( Change for 
[ Kwansai line. 


320 


Baba (OTSU) 




322 


Otani 




325} 


Yamashina 




3281 


Inari 




330 


KYOTO 




334 


Mukomachi 




338| 


Yamazaki 




3431 


Takatsuki 




347* 


Ibaraki 




352 


Suita 


1 


3561 


OSAKA 




361£ 
366 


Kanzaki Jet .... 
Nishi-no-miya 


(Branch to 
1 Maizuru. 


3711 
376 


Sumiyoshi 
San-no-miya .... 


( See caution at' 
( end of Route. 1 


3771 


KOBE 


1 



228 



Route I'd.— The Tokaiko. 



The word ToJcaido signifies "Eastern 
Sea Road." The name was given to this 
road at an early date on account of its 
running along the sea-shore in an easter- 
ly direction from Kyoto, which, being 
the old historic capital, was naturally 
regarded as the;starting-point. From the 
17th century onwards, the Tokaido was 
traversed twice yearly by Daimyos coming 
with gorgeous retinues to pay their re- 
spects to the Shogun at Yedo ; and all 
the chief towns, here as on the other great 
highways of the empire, were provided 
with honjin— that is, specially fine hos- 
telries— for their lordships to sleep at. 
The greater portion of the beautiful 
avenue of pine-trees with which the road 
was lined still exists, and can be seen 
occasionally from the windows of the 
railway carriage. The road itself is now 
comparatively deserted. " But what a 
scene it used to present ! How crowded 
with pedestrians; with norimons (the 
palanquins ! of the upper crust), and at- 
tendants ; with cangoes (the modest bam- 
boo conveyance of the humble classes); 
with pack-horses, conveying merchandise 
of all kinds to and from the capital or 
to the busy towns and villages along the 
route; with the trains of Daimyos or 
of lesser gentry entitled to travel with a 
retinue; and with the commonalty, men, 
women and children, on foot, all with 
their dresses turned up for facility of 
movement, and for the most part taking 
the journey pretty easily; frequently 
stopping at the numberless tea-houses or 
resting sheds by the way, and refresh- 
ing themselves with the simple little 
cup of weak green tea, and a cheery chat 
with whomsoever might stop like them- 
selves to rest. It used to seem that dis- 
tance was no consideration with them. 
They could go on all day, and day after 
day, if only they were allowed (which they 
generally were) to take their own time and 
pace. The value of time never entered 
into their thoughts 

The numerous trains of armed men pass- 
ing in both directions were the most 
striking feature of the scene. Never could 
one go out of one's house in any direct- 
ion, but these two-sworded men were 
met with ; but on the Tokaido, and in the 
streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more 
numerous than the common people ; and 
it must be understood that at this time of 
which I am speaking, the crowds on por- 
tions of the road and in all the principal 
thoroughfares of the capital, were as great 
as in the most crowded thoroughfares of 
London. It took one forcibly back to the 
feudal times in Europe, when no noble or 
landed proprietor thought of going abroad 
unattended by his armed dependants. 
Added to this, there was a certain air of 
antiquity that imparted its charm to the 
scene. The old Dutch writers described 
the road long ago, and it was even in their 



day, precisely as it was in ours. A good, 
well macadamised causeway, (except that 
the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of 
broken stones), passing through numerous 
populous villages, only divided from each 
other by short intervals, where fine old 
trees on both sides of the road were the 
sole division between the road and the 
paddy fields. The etiquette of the road 
was well and rigidly defined. When the 
trains of two princes met, it was incum- 
bent on the lesser of them— (measured by 
his income as recognised by the Govern- 
ment, and published in the official list), 
to dismount from his norimon, if he 
happened to be riding in one, and draw 
with his followers to the side of the road 
whilst the other passed. Whenever it was 
possible, therefore, such meetings were 
avoided."* 

The railway was begun in 1872, and 
finished as a single line in 1889. The 
process of doubling it is still incomplete. 
The journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, which 
formerly was an affair of 12 or 13 days on 
foot, is now reduced by express to 12 
hours. 

Travellers with time on hand are 
advised to break the journey at 
Kozu, in order to visit Miyanoshita 
and Hakone (Ete. 6) ; at Okitsu, in 
order to visit Kuno-zan on the way 
between that station and Shizuoka ; 
at Shizuoka itself, and at Nagoya. 
Of these places, three, viz. Miyano- 
shita, Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have 
hotels in European style. Those who 
are hurried may console themselves 
for missing these interesting places 
by the knowledge that the scenery 
through which they are to pass af- 
fords many charms, including su- 
perb views of Fuji. The least in- 
teresting portion of the line is that 
between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a 
4 hours' run which may with 
comparatively little disadvantage 
be done after dark, as most of it 
passes through flat country devoted 
to the cultivation of rice. 

The first half -hour of the journey, 
—that between Tokyo and Yokohama, 
having been already described 
in Boute 3, calls for no further 
remark. Some trains run into Yoko- 
hama station to pick up passengers 
for the west, and run out again 



*This description is quoted from Black's 
Young Japan, Vol. I., 163, et sea. 



From Of una to Gotemba. 



229 



for a few min. over the same ground, 
soon diverging to the 1. Others are 
run along a loop, and omitting the 
chief station of Yokohama, touch 
only at Hiranuma, a suburb 2 miles 
to the N. At 

Of una Junction, a short branch 
line takes travellers to the famous 
Daibutsu at Kamakura (see pp. 
101-3). 

Fujisawa (Inns, Inage-ya ; 
Wakamatsu-ya at station). The 
spacious temple of Yugyb-dera, 8 cho 
from the station, is known far and 
wide for the wonderful powers of 
healing, etc., ascribed to its suc- 
cessive abbots. The established 
custom is for the abbot to spend all 
his time in pious journeyings, and 
return to Fujisawa only at the 
approach of death. Fujisawa is the 
nearest station for the sacred 
island of Enoshima (see p. 104). 
After passing Fujisawa, the Hakone 
range, behind which towers the 
cone of Fuji, begins to come in sight 
r. Soon afterwards, the line crosses 
the broad, stony bed of the Eiver 
Banyu, which rises in Lake Ya- 
manaka on the N.E. flank of Fuji. 
At 

Hiratsuka stand r. the works of 
the Japan Explosives' Co. (Messrs. 
Armstrong), covering ground 5 m. 
in circumference. 

Oiso ( Inn, *T6ryd-kwan ; Europ. 
restt. Miyoshi-ya) is a fashionable 
bathing resort. The coast from here 
onwards is well-protected from 
winter winds, an advantage to 
which the groves of orange- trees 
covering the surrounding slopes 
bear witness. 

Oiso, though apparently so insignifi- 
cant a place, boasts considerable anti- 
quity. Mention of it occurs in the story 
of the Soga Brethren's Revenge, in the 
12th century (see p. 84). Of recent years' 
it has again assumed a sort of impor- 
tance. Here the leaders of the Japanese 
political world have their villas, where 
those informal meetings are held which 
foreshadow the creation or overthrow of 
coteries and Cabinets. 

At Kozu (Inn, Kozu-kwan), the 
line turns inland up the valley of 



the Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid 
the Hakone mountains. The sce- 
nery now becomes hilly, with to the 
1. the chief peaks of the Hakone 
range, — Futago-yama (the " Twin 
Mountain," so-called from its 
double round summit), Myojin-ga- 
take, Kamiyama, and Kintoki-zan 
(tooth-shaped). An extra engine is 
put on at 

Yamakita 

[From this station it is a pictur- 
esque, but easy, walk of a little 
under 1 m. to a waterfall some 
200 ft. high, called Hirayama 
no Taki. The Sakawa-gawa 
here abounds with trout, which 
are brought to the station for 
sale in the form of rice sand- 
wiches (sushi).'] 

to help the train up to Gotemba, 
the highest point on the line, — 1,500 
ft. above sea-level. After Yamakita 
the scenery becomes wilder, and 
there is a rapid succession of tun- 
nels and bridges. The extensive 
buildings on the r. at Oyama station 
(not to be mistaken for the mount- 
ain Oyama, with a long O) belong 
to a cotton spinnery. Reaching 

Gotemba (Inn, Fuji-ya at sta- 
tion ; the old vill. is 12 cho distant), 
the passenger finds himself in the 
broad and fertile plain surrounding 
Fuji's base, — a plain whose soil 
indeed has been formed by the 
outpourings of the great volcano 
during countless ages. Nothing 
here interrupts the view from base 
to summit. The long-ridged wooded 
mountain immediately to the 1. of 
Fuji is Ashitaka (see p. 170). The 
range to the spectator's 1. from the 
carriage window is the Hakone 
range, the lowest point of which 
seen from here is the Otome-toge 
leading over to Miyanoshita. 

Gotemba (literally, " Palace Site ") de- 
rives its name from having been the seat 
of the hunting-lodge of the great Shogun 
Yoritomo, when he came from his capital 
at Kamakura to hunt in the neighbour- 
hood of Fuji. The Fuji-no-maki-gari, as 
these royal hunting parties were called, 



230 



Route 23.— The Tokaido. 



are often represented in art, especially on 
screens ; and various localities in the 
surrounding country-side have names 
connecting them with incidents real or 
imaginary of the chase. 

Seven miles S. of Gotemba, at the 
hamlet of Kdyama, stands a lepers' 
home, conducted by the French 
Catholic fathers. 

At Sano, there is a semi-Europ. 
Hotel close to the pretty waterfall 
(Sano no taki), 12 cho from the 
station by jinrikisha. Kei-ga-shima 
17 cho beyond the falls, is another 
picturesque spot, remarkable for its 
curious rocks. 

The traveller still has Fuji and 
Ashitaka to his r., the other moun- 
tains from r. to 1. being Amagi-san 
in Izu, Yahazu-yama (a small peak), 
Higane-san, the Hakone range, and 
in front — isolated as if let drop 
independently into the plain — 
Kanoki-yama. The railway turns 
west, and rejoins the old Tokaidd at 

Numazu (Inns, Sugimoto, Ki- 
kyo-ya), a considerable town. Most 
persons, rather than stay at Numa- 
zu itself, prefer to go on 25 min. 
by jinrikisha to a sea-side inn at 
Ushibuse. There is an Imperial 
villa 1 ri out of Numazu. It is 
about 

[An electric tram runs from 
Numazu to Mishima-machi, 
there joining the railway to 
Ohito for the Shuzenji springs.] 

Suzukawa (Inns, Suzuki-ya, at 
station ; Besso, near the sea) that 
the nearest and most perfect view 
of Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else 
does the "Peerless Mountain" so 
absolutely dominate its surround- 
ings ; the red cliif a little over half- 
way up on the r. flank is Hoei-zan 
(see p. 162). The beauty of the 
stretch of shore from here to the 
mouth of the Fujikawa, called Tago- 
no-ura, has been sung by a hundred 
Japanese poets. The Fujikawa is 
noted for its rapids (Ete. 30). 
From 

Iwabuchi (Inn, Tani-ya, at 
station) to Okitsu is very beautiful, 



the space between the sea and a 
range of hills to the r. becoming so 
narrow as barely to leave room for 
the railway to skirt the shore. In 
the neighbourhood of 

Kambara (Inn, Tani-ya), fields 
of sugar-cane will be observed. 

The cultivation of the small but 
hardy Chinese variety of the sugar cane 
(SaccJiarum sinense) is carried on with fair 
success in the warmer provinces of Japan, 
such as Mikawa, Owari, Kishu, Shiko- 
ku, and Satsuma. Being unable ,to with- 
stand the frosts of winter, it is planted 
out in March or April, and harvested not 
later than November. The cane, which is 
used for planting is buried in a dry place 
to preserve it from the cold. In spring it 
is cut into pieces, which are planted out 
in the usual way. 

Okitsu (Inns, Tokai Hotel, semi- 
Europ. ; Minakuchi-ya) has good 
sea bathing and a lovely view of the 
Bay of Suruga, the large mountain- 
ous peninsula of Izu, and to the r. 
the point of land called Mio-no- 
Matsubara, celebrated alike in 
poetry and art. It is covered with 
pine-trees, is low and sandy,' hence 
more pleasant to look at than to 
walk on. Still further to the r. lie 
the Kuno-zan hills, with the seaport 
town of Shimizu nestling at their 
base. 

At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene 
of Ha-goromo, or " The Robe of Feathers," 
one of the prettiest and most fanciful of 
the Japanese Lyric Dramas (No no Utai). 
A fisherman, landing on this strand, finds 
a robe of feathers hanging to a pine-tree, 
and is about to carry it off as treasure- 
trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly 
appears and implores him to restore it to 
her, for that it is hers, and without it 
she cannot fly home to the Moon, where 
she is one of the attendants on the thirty 
monarchs who rule that sphere. At first 
the fisherman refuses to grant her re- 
quest. He only does so when, after many 
tears and agonies of despair, she pro- 
mises to dance for him one of the dances 
known only to the immortals. Draped 
in her feathery robe, she dances beneath 
the pine-trees on the beach, while celes- 
tial music and an unearthly fragrance 
fill the air. At last her wings are caught 
by the breeze, and she soars heavenward 
past Mount Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she 
is lost to view. There is still a small 
shrine on Mio-no-Matsubara dedicated to 
this fairy, where a relic of her robe is 
shown. 



Kuno-zan. 



231 



The Temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi- 
dera at OkLtsu, belonging to the 
Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a 
yisit, partly for the sake of the 
view, partly for the temple itself 
and the temple grounds, which 
even the railway, though it cuts 
through them, has not entirely 
spoilt. The very plain altar in a 
small shrine near the Hondo — a 
large hall payed with tiles — contains 
funeral tablets of all the Shoguns 
of the Tokugawa dynasty. The 
Apartments, built in 1865 for the use 
of the Shogun Iemochi, afford a 
good example of Japanese domestic 
architecture. Two stone praying- 
wheels will be observed in the 
grounds : likewise some 300 stone 
images of Bakan (p. 51). The 
creeping plum-trees in front of 
the temple are said to have been 
planted by Ieyasu's own hand. 

[A detour of 6 or 7 hrs. to Kuno- 
zan will afford the traveller a 
real multum in parvo, — splendid 
views, several temples, nearer 
acquaintance with Japanese 
town and country life off the 
beaten track. — The plan is to 
leave Yokohama by the first 
train, alight at OkLtsu, and 
thence go by jinrikisha with 
two men, rejoining the railway 
at Shizuoka, where sleep. The 
temple of Seikenji, described 
above, is first visited ; thence 
through Ejiri, and Shimizu, a 
bustling seaport. Then the way 
strikes inland to Tesshiiji, two 
small temples, one at the base, 
the other on the top of a low 
hill called Fudaraku-san. The 
view from the upper one, de- 
dicated to Kwannon, is pano- 
ramic, recalling a painting by 
Claude. At the beholder's feet 
stretches a green carpet of rice- 
fields, with the town of Shimizu 
and the curious square en- 
closures in the adjacent sea, 
used as fish-preserves to supply 
the needs of the inhabitants 
in stormy weather. The two 



promontories to the 1. are the 
Sattatoge and the point near 
Kambara, beyond which come 
Fuji, Ashitaka, and the Hakone 
range. The peninsula of 
Izu extends the whole way 
round from 1. to r., like a 
gigantic scythe, forming the 
Gulf of Suruga, while much 
closer and smaller, making a 
bay within a bay, stretches the 
pine-clad promontory of Mio- 
no-Matsubara, which is from 
here seen to divide at the tip 
into three points like claws. 
Near Tesshuji stands another 
temple called JRyitgeji, noted 
for its sotetsu (Cycas revoluta) 
and prickly pears, — the latter 
a great rarity in Japan ; but 
the view, though fine, is not 
comparable to that from Tes- 
shuji. 

The way now leads back to 
the sea and along the sandy 
shore, lined with salt-pans, to 
the hamlet of Kekoya (Inn, 
Ishibashi), at the foot of Kuno- 
zan, one of a range of hills 
barely 900 ft. high, but 
fortress-like in steepness. This 
was the first burial-place of the 
great Shogun Ieyasu, and the 
shrine here erected in his 
honour was the original of 
which those at Nikkd are but 
a more elaborate development. 
Travellers who are unable to 
go to Nikko, can therefore 
obtain an idea of what the 
Nikko temples are like by vis- 
iting Kuno-zan. 

According to some, Ieyasu's body- 
still lies here, only a single hair or 
other minute portion having been 
transported to Nikko (1617). — All 
the temple buildings have been 
restored, the carvings repainted, 
the gates relacquered ; and as a 
necessary precaution, the renovated 
works of art are covered with plain 
wooden slabs, which are removed 
only on great festivals. But the 
guide will lift up some to show what 
is behind. The festivals are held on 
the 17th day of the first moon (old 
style), on the 17th April and 17th 
October. 



232 



tioute 2d.— The Tokaido. 



A Buddhist temple had stood oil 
this site from time immemorial, 
but was pulled down by Takeda 
Shingen (see p. 84) and a castle built 
instead. When Ieyasu lay dying at 
Shizuoka in 1616, he ordered the 
castle to be razed and the ground 
again devoted to religious purposes. 

The ascent to the temples is 
by 1036 steps forming a zigzag 
path cut in the living rock. 
The tea-house will supply one 
guide ; another — a priest — ap- 
plied for at the Shamusho, or 
temple office, near the top on 
the 1. A fee of 20 sen is 
charged; but most persons 
give 35 or 50, and are presented 
on leaving with some small 
memento. The view over the 
sea is glorious, especially from 
a venerable gnarled pine-tree 
called mono-mi no matsu. The 
headlands seen hence are 
T6me-no-saki, Wada-no-mi- 
saki, and Omae-zaki. The well 
on the r. of the path at this 
level is said to be 108 ft. deep, 
and to have been dug by a six- 
teenth century warrior, Yama- 
mato Kansuke, the lame and 
one-eyed retainer of Take- 
da Shingen. The temples, 
though "purified" to a 
certain extent by the pro- 
Shinto party forty years ago, 
retain their Buddhist orna- 
mentation. The wooden effigy 
of a sacred horse 1. is by Hidari 
Jingoro. Up a flight of steps 
hence, we come r. to the drum- 
tower, and 1. to the site of the 
five-storied pagoda, which was 
removed by the " purifiers " as 
savouring too much of Bud- 
dhism. Above these again, are 
r. the kagura stage, the 
treasure-house or " godown," 
containing arms and armour 
of each Tokugawa Shogun in 
fine preservation, and a build- 
ing formerly dedicated to the 
Buddhist god Yakushi, and now 
to the Shint5 god Oyamagui-no- 
Mikoto ; while 1. is the building 
where the sacred offerings are 



prepared. The Oratory proper 
(Oo-Haiden) is painted red on 
the outside, black and gold 
within. The square fence (0 
Tamagaki) surrounding it has 
lovely painted carvings and the 
gate in the middle of each side 
is beautifully ornamented. 
Bound the interior hang 
pictures of the Thirty-six Po- 
etical Geniuses, and there is an 
elaborate bordering of phoe- 
nixes and chrysanthemums, 
besides gilt coffered ceilings. 
The arrangement of the Holy 
of Holies is similar to that at 
Nikkd (see p. 198); unfortu- 
nately the rule against admis- 
sion to view it is absolute. A 
final flight of steps behind the 
oratory leads up to the stone 
tomb, which is an octagonal 
monolith. On leaving Kund- 
zan, the road first follows the 
sea-shore, and then turns in- 
land, reaching Shizuoka in 
about 1 hr.] 

Between Okitsu and JEjiri, there 
is a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. 
After leaving Ejiri, the line turns 
inland to avoid the Kuno-zan hills. 

Shizuoka (Hotels, Daitd-kwan, 
Europ. style; Kiyo-kwan) is the 
capital of the prefecture of the same 
name, and of the province of 
Suruga. It is clean and airy, and 
noted for its manufactures of cheap 
lacquer-ware, delicate basket-work 
in curious and beautiful shapes, 
and fine bamboo plaiting used to 
cover egg-shell porcelain cups, 
which are brought from the prov- 
ince of Mino. The tea produced at 
Ashikubo, a vill. 2 ri distant, ranks 
second only to that of Uji. In fact, 
the heights in all this district, and 
on to Fujieda, are covered with the 
low, thick tea-bush. 

Historically, Shizuoka, is remarkable 
chiefly as the place where Ieyasu chose 
to spend the evening of his life in learned 
leisure, leaving his son Hidetada to carry 
on the government at Yedo. Here for 
the first time many of the treasures of 
Japanese literature, which had hitherto 



Shizuoka. 



233 



existed only in manuscript, were put 
into print. Shizuoka was, until 1897, the 
place of retirement of the ex-Shogun 
Keiki, who lived there in seclusion as a 
private gentleman. He now, in his old 
age, occupies a high position at Court in 
Tokyo. The castle enclosure is utilised 
for the garrison. The liveliest days at 
Shizuoka are the lst-5th April, when 
festival cars in honour of the goddess 
Sengen parade the town. 

An afternoon is enough for the 
sights of Shizuoka, which consist of 
three fine temples, — Binzaiji, Sen- 
gen, and Hodai-in. All that re- 
mains of the castle are the decay- 
ing walls and the moats. Within 
its enclosure stand the Prefecture 
and numerous other ugly official 
buildings. Just outside, in Ote- 
machi, is an elegant villa erected 
for the late Emperor in 1901, 

It is a pretty drive of 8 chb from 
the city to the Buddhist temple of 
Binzaiji, which stands at the foot of 
a wooded hill, part of which has 
been turned into a landscape gar- 
den. It belongs to the Zen sect, 
and is noted for its connection with 
Ieyasu. The little room of only 4J- 
mats (yo-jb-han), where he learnt 
to write, is shown, as are several 
scrolls, screens, pieces of lacquer 
and porcelain, etc., presented by 
him to the temple in his old age. 
There is also a number of kakemonos 
by Kand Masanobu, Chin Nampin, 
and other old masters. In the 
Hondo is a painted statue of Ima- 
gawa Yoshimoto, younger brother 
to Ujiteru, founder of the temple. 
Another painted statue represents 
the second abbot. The Honzon is 
Amida, a black image with a gold 
background. In a side shrine is 
preserved the wooden image of 
Mari-shiten, which Ieyasu — who, for 
all his political and military genius, 
was not free from the superstitions 
of his time — used constantly to 
carry about with him as a charm. 
The visitor will also be shown a 
gilt revolving bookcase, shaped 
like a pagoda and containing a 
complete set of the edition of 
the Buddhist scriptures, printed 



Tor the first time with movable 
type in 1888. The 1st and 2nd 
October are the great festival days 
at Binzaiji. 

The Temple of Sengen, which 
stands at the N. limit of the town, 
was erect ed_ under the superinten- 
dence of Okubo Hikozaemon, a 
personage famous in Japanese his- 
tory as the minister and confidant 
of the Shogun Iemitsu. Though 
chiefly dedicated to the worship of 
Kono-hana-saku-ya-hime, alias 
Sengen, the Shinto goddess 
of Mount Fuji, it is constructed 
in the most ornate Buddhistic 
style and decorated with excellent 
wood carvings. The interior of the 
oratory proper (go haiden no bbiro- 
ma) is a hall 63 ft, by 33 ft,, with 
large solid pillars of keyaki lacquer- 
ed red, two of which form at the 
same time the corner pillars of the 
upper storey. The two central 
compartments of the ceiling are 
painted with dragons, — one called 
the Shi-hb no Ryb, or "Dragon of 
the Four Quarters," because, what- 
ever point of the compass it be 
viewed from, it seems to glare 
down directly at the spectator ; the 
other, Hap-pb no Byb, or "Dragon 
of the Eight Quarters, because its 
glance is directed to every point of 
the circle. The former of these is 
by Yusen Hogan, the latter by 
Kano Motonobu. Eight other com- 
partments contain pictures of 
angels playing on musical instru- 
ments, also by painters of the Kan5 
school. Two broad flights of steps 
behind the oratory lead up to a 
building containing two shrines, 
one_ sacred to Sengen, the other 
to Onamuji. The two shrines are 
connected by a room in which a 
nightly watch was formerly kept 
by retainers of the Tokugawa 
family. Do not fail to notice the 
carvings on the gates leading to 
these twin shrines. One set re- 
presents a lioness with her cub, 
and on a second panel her royal 
mate, — both surrounded by peonies, 
the king of flowers, as the lion is 



234 



Route 23.— The Tokaido. 



the king of beasts. Another set 
represents hawks with pine-trees. 
Round the shrine itself are carvings 
of the pine-tree, bamboo, and plum- 
blossoms by Hidari Jingoro. 

Near the main quadrangle is a 
smaller building called Sosha, 
formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten 
and now to the Shintd god Yachi- 
hoko. It is the newest of all the 
buildings, and the decorations 
are therefore in better repair. 
In the curved roof of the porch is 
a fine phoenix cut out of a single 
block of wood; and all round, 
above the architrave, runs a series 
of delicate little groups representing 
the Twenty-four Paragons of Filial 
Piety. Some Dutch pictures and 
relics of Yamada Nagamasa, a 17th 
century adventurer, are preserved 
inside. 

Escaping from Japan as a stowaway 
on board a merchant vessel bound for 
Formosa, he obtained a passage thence in 
a foreign ship to Siam. That country- 
being then at war with a neighbouring 
State, Nagamasa laid before the King a 
system of military organization and tac- 
tics, for which he received an appoint- 
ment as general in the army. With the 
help of a number of other Japanese 
adventurers, he defeated the enemy 
in a bloody engagement, took their King 
prisoner and carried him back to Siam. 
The Siamese monarch, in recognition 
of these exploits, bestowed on him his 
daughter in marriage, together with a 
dukedom. He ultimately became Regent, 
as well as commander-in-chief of the 
Siamese forces. On the King's demise, 
however, Court intrigues brought his 
career to a close by poison in 1633. 

Beyond the Marishi-ten temple, 
a flight of 105 stone steps leads up 
to the Oku-no-in, which affords a 
good view of the town. 

Hbdai-in, in the town, a spacious 
temple, is the burial-place of the 
wife of Ieyasu. Besides several 
interesting objects of an earlier 
date, there is here a set of coloured 
statuettes (all portraits) of 95 soldiers 
of the Shizuoka prefecture who fell 
in the China war of 1894-5, pro- 
ducing a comical effect which was 
far from the intention of the patri- 
otic artist. Other figures in the 



garden, made of cement, represent 
cavalry-men. 

The best excursion from Shizu- 
oka is that by jinrikisha to Kunb- 
zan (3 ri) ; see pp. 231-2. 

From Shizuoka to Nagoya, a 
distance of 115 miles, the line for 
the most part ceases to skirt the 
sea, and runs over a flat country 
with low hills on one or both sides, 
or else among rice-fields. Spurs of 
the central range forming the back- 
bone of the country are, however, 
often seen away to the r. Just 
outside Shizuoka we cross the Abe- 
kawa close to its mouth, and obtain 
a pretty glimpse of the sea, with 
the small promontory of Kuno-zan 
and the large peninsula of Izu, 
before entering two long tun- 
nels. The Oigawa is crossed 
after passing the station of Shimada. 
Like _all the rivers on this coast, 
the Oigawa has a bed out of 
proportion to the small volume of 
water that generally flows down 
it, the bed being nearly a mile 
broad, while the actual stream is 
not more than some 50 yds., except 
in flood- time. 

_ In pre-railway days, the passage of the 
Oigawa was one of the most exciting por- 
tions of the journey along the Tokaido. 
No ferry-boats could be used on account 
of the swiftness of the current, and trav- 
ellers were carried across on small hand- 
platforms called rendai. The naked 
coolies who bore these aloft always chose 
the deepest parts of the stream, in order 
to impress their fares with a sense of the 
peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain 
the largest possible gratuity. This inci- 
dent of old-fashioned travel is pourtrayed 
in almost every set of coloured prints 
representing the "Fifty-three Stages of 
the Tokaido" {Tokaido Go-ju-san Tsugi). 

Kakegawa {Inn, Fuji-ya) manu- 
factures kuzu-ori, a sort of linen 
cloth woven from grass. 

[The Temple of Akiha lies 
12 ri inland, of which the first 
6 ri 7 cho as far as the vill. of 
Mukura are practicable for jin- 
rikishas. The visitor may con- 
veniently sleep at Sakashita 
some 4 J ri further on, at the 



From Hamamatsu to Atsuta. 



235 



base of the mountain on which 
the temple stands. The ascent 
is locally computed at 50 cho. 

The temple of Akiha enjoys a wide 
reputation for sanctity, and is visit- 
ed annually by crowds of pilgrims. 
Unfortunately all the beautiful Bud- 
dhist buildings in which Kwannon 
and other deities had for centuries 
been invoked, were destroyed by 
fire on the occasion of the great 
yearly festival in 1875, and the pre- 
sent temple was afterwards erected 
in the bare, uninteresting style of 
"Pure Shinto." It has been dedi- 
cated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto, who 
is regarded by some as the God of 
Fire, but is more correctly explained 
as the God of Summer Heat.] 

Before reaching Hamamatsu the 
line crosses the Tenryu-gawa, whose 
celebrated Rapids form the subject 
of Koute 33. The Tenryu is the 
first of the three great rivers from 
which the province of Mikawa, 
here traversed by the railway, 
takes_ its name. The other two are 
the Ogawa (also called Oya-gawa or 
Ohira-gawa) on this side of the 
station of OkazaM, and the Yahagi- 
gawa just beyond it. 

Naka-izumi (Inn, Yuai-kwan, 
at station). 

Hainamatsu (Inns, *Ogome-ya, 
*Hana-ya, at station) is the only 
place between Shizuoka and Nagoya 
where the journey can be broken 
with any comfort. The town de- 
rives a peculiar appearance from 
the use of long projecting eaves, 
which cause the houses to look as 
if about to tumble forward into the 
street. Just beyond 

Maisaka (Inn, Hamano-kwan), 
we reach a large lagoon (Hamana no 
Mizu-umi), which is crossed near its 
mouth on a long series of dykes 
and bridges, whence the breakers 
of the Pacific can be seen. On the 
other side, stretches far away the 
deeply indented shore-line clad 
with pine-trees. The boats sailing 
over the smooth water, and the 
mountains rising range beyond 
range in the background, combine 
to form a delightful picture. 



Though called a lake in Japanese, this 
lagoon has now a narrow entrance about 
600 yds. across formed in the year 1499, 
when an earthquake broke down the 
sand-spit that had previously separated 
the fresh water from the sea. The prov- 
ince of Totomi derives its name from 
this lake, which was called Totomi, a 
corruption of To-tsu-awa-nmi, " the dis- 
tant foaming sea," in contradistinction 
to Lake Biwa, named CMka-tsu-awa-umi, 
" the near foaming sea," which gave its 
name to the province of Omi. 

After passing Futagawa, a fine 
bronze image of Kwannon, dating 
from the year 1765, is seen perched 
r. on a pinnacle of rock. It is called 
Iwaya no Kwannon, and formerly 
possessed eyes of pure gold, but only 
one remains. 

Toyonasni (Inn, Kojima) is 
better known in history and pictorial 
art under its old name of Yoshida. 

[In the town of Toy oka wa ( Inn, 
Wakaba-ya) 5 m. distant from 
Toyohashi by a branch line, 
stands a Temple of Inari, cele- 
brated, but dull except on 
festival days, namely, the 22nd 
of each month. The annual 
festival is held on the 21st — 
22nd October.] 

At Goyu, the line again touches 
the shore. 

Karnagori ( Inn, Kempeki-kwan), 
standing on a picturesque bay with 
islets and the peninsulas of Chita 
and Atsumi beyond, is resorted to in 
summer by students for sea-bathing 
and boating. The mountains of 
the provinces of Shima, Ise, and 
Iga now come in sight. After Oka- 
zaki, (Inn, Maru-to), noted in history 
as the birthplace of the great Sho- 
gun Ieyasu, comes a dull bit, flat 
and with rice-fields on either hand, 
or sand-hillocks and pine scrub ; 
but from Otaka the fine range 
separating the provinces of Ise and 
Omi rises ahead, and is kept in 
view all the way to 

Atsuta (Inn, Ise-kyu, on the 
shore), which is practically a suburb 
of Nagoya. It possesses a fine set 
of Shinto temples, from which it 
derives its alternative name of Miya 



236 



Route 23.— The Tokaido. 



These temples, originally founded 
in A.D. 686, were restored in 1893 
in "Pure Shinto " style, after the 
pattern of the temple of Ise. As at 
Ise itself, no one is allowed to go 
inside. Notice the splendid cam- 
phor-trees in the grounds. 

The gods worshipped at Atsuta are the 
Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, her brother 
Susa-no-o, Prince Yamato-take, the 
latter's wife Miyazu-hime, and her 
brother Take-ino-tane. But the ob- 
ject most venerated, — indeed, the 
raison d'etre of the temples and con- 
sequently of the town,— is the famous 
sword called Kusa-nagi no Tsurugi, one 
of the three antique objects which form 
the Imperial regalia of Japan, the other 
two being a mirror and a jewel. This 
sword (so legend goes) was found by Susa- 
no-o in the tail of an eight-headed ser- 
pent, which he intoxicated with sake and 
then slew. Having been brought down 
from heaven many centuries later by the 
first ancestor of the Mikados, it came 
into the possession of Yamato-take, and 
assisted that prince in the conquest of 
Eastern Japan. The treasure is never 
shown, but a great festival is held in its 
honour on the 21st June. The complete 
legend of the sword Kuna-nagi will be 
found in the Kojiki (Trans, of the Asiatic 
Soc. of Japan, Vol. X., Supplement, Sect. 
XVIII., LXXXIL, and LXXXIII.). At 
some little distance from the chief 
temple stands another dedicated to a 
scarcely less sacred sword called Ya- 
tsurugi. The legend concerning it is kept 
as an esoteric secret. 

On leaving Atsuta, we pass r. a 
large government arsenal. 

Nagoya (Nagoya Hotel, Europ. 
style, with Jap. annexe; Ya- 
mada-ya). 

This flourishing commercial city, the 
largest on the Tokaido, capital of the 
province of Owari and of the prefecture 
of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the 
Daimyo of Owari, a family closely 
allied to that of the Tokugawa Shoguns, 
the founder of the house of Owari having 
been a son of Ieyasu. Their fief was 
rated at 550,000 koku of rice, and the Owa- 
ri's ranked as one of the " Three August 
Families" (Go san-ke), entitled to furnish 
a successor to the Shogun's throne in 
default of an heir. Their castle, which is 
still one of the wonders of Japan, was 
erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal 
lords, to serve as the residence of Ieyasu's 
son. Like other Japanese castles, it is a 
wooden building standing on cyclopean 
walls. The roofs of the keep are all cop- 
pered, and its massive gates are cased 



with iron. The castle walls are 18 ft. 
thick. Curiously enough, this stronghold 
has never seen war. In the early years 
of the present rigime it was handed over 
to the Military Department; and the 
beautiful decorations of the Daimyo's 
dwelling apartments suffered, as did so 
much else in Japan, from the almost 
incredible vandalism and vulgar stu- 
pidity of that period, — common soldiers, 
or officers as ignorant as they, being 
allowed to deface the priceless wall- 
paintings of a Tan-yii, a Motonobu, and 
a Matahei. This desecration is now 
happily put an end to, though much 
irreparable damage was done. The 
castle has been taken over by the Im- 
perial Household Department, to be 
preserved as a monument of historic 
interest. The two golden dolphins (kin 
no shachi-hoko), which can be seen glitter- 
ing all over the city from the top of the 
five storied donjon (tenshu), were made in 
1610 at the cost of the celebrated general, 
Kato Kiyomasa, who also built the keep. 
The eyes are of silver. One of the dol- 
phins was sent to the Vienna Exhibition 
of 1873, and on its way back was wrecked 
in the Messageries Maritimes steamer 
"Nil." Having been recovered with 
great difficulty, it was restored to its 
original position. The golden dolphins 
measure 8 ft. 8 in: in height, and are 
valued at £ 36,000 sterling. 

Nagoya is noted for its manufac- 
ture of porcelain and cloisonne. 
The principal dealers are : 

Porcelain. — Tashiro-ya (factory 
shown, cloisonne on porcelain a 
speciality). 

Cloisonne. — Ando, Hayashi, Ku- 
meno, and others. 

Curios. — Naka-rin, Asahi. 

Electric trams run along the 
principal thoroughfares, and on to 
Chikusa station. 

It may be worth spending a day 
at Nagoya to see a nourishing pro- 
vincial town. Though the Castle is 
now inaccessible except by special 
permit obtainable through the 
foreign embassies, all may inspect 
the Higashi Hongwanji temple, 
the Commercial Museum, and the 
minor temples mentioned below. 
The geisha dancing at Nagoya is a 
speciality. 

The Castle (Rikyil). — The space 
between the inner and outer moats, 
now containing extensive barracks 
and parade-grounds, was formerly 



Nagoya. 



237 



occupied by the Daimyo's mansion 
and by quarters for his retainers, 
offices civil and military, etc. All 
this arrangement and the wreck 
of the garden are well seen from 
the top of the castle. Passing 
into the inner enclosure over a 
moat now allowed to remain 
dry, the traveller is first shown 
through the Apartments, which 
present a beautiful specimen of 
aristocratic decoration. The slid- 
ing screens between the rooms, 
the alcoves, and the wooden doors 
separating the different sets of 
apartments are all adorned with 
paintings of flowers, birds, etc., 
chiefly by artists of the Kano school, 
viz., No. 1, tigers and bamboos by 
Kand Teishin; sleeping tiger by 
Mitsunobu, specially admired, and 
wooden doors by Eitoku; No. 2, 
peach-blossom and musk- cats by 
MitsuokL ; No. 3, large trees, cherry- 
blossom, and pheasants by the same. 
These rooms were reserved for the 
use of the Shogun, when he came to 
visit the Paimyd, his kinsman. 
Observe the beautiful metal-work, 
also the difference of height between 
the inner and outer rooms, — the 
former (jddan) being for the Shogun 
himself, the latter (gedan) for those 
inferior persons who were graci- 
ously admitted to an audience. No. 
4 is the reception hall, adorned by 
Iwasa Matahei with delineations 
of street life at Osaka and Kyoto, 
in the most comical vein. The 
ceiling is lacquered. A neighbouring 
apartment with carvings by Hidari 
Jingoro, screens by Tan-yu, etc., is 
never shown, because appropriated 
to the Emperor's use. Leaving these 
apartments, one comes to a much 
humbler suite, and is then led 
through the smaller two-storied, 
into the five-storied, donjon or 
keep, a gloomy building, all of 
stone without, but furnished with 
wooden staircases within. The well 
at the bottom is called Ogon-sui, 
or "the Golden Water," because 
gold was thrown into it to improve 
its quality. The fifth storey com- 



mands an extensive view, — the town 
of course, the sea, the vast plain of 
Owari and Mino laid out in rice- 
fields, and, bounding the horizon, 
the mountains of Ise, Iga, Omi, 
Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and T6- 
tomi. — No fee is accepted by the 
custodian of the Castle. 
Higashi Hongwanji. 

This splendid Buddhist temple, whose 
exterior and interior are both equally- 
grand, dates in its actual shape from 
the beginning of the 19th century. In 
mediaeval times a fortress occupied its 
site, whence the castle-like walls that still 
surround the enclosure. 

The two-storied double-roofed 
gate-house has three portals de- 
corated with floral arabesques in 
relief on the lintel and posts; the 
gates have scrolls and open-work 
diapers, with solid bronze plates 
binding the frame-work together, 
the whole in charming style recall- 
ing Italian Renaissance work. On 
the further side of a spacious court 
rises the lofty temple, which looks 
two-storied owing to the exterior 
colonnade having a roof lower than 
that of the main structure. The 
interior measures 120 ft. in length 
by 108 ft. in depth, and is divided 
longitudinally into three parts, that 
in front being for the use of ordinary 
worshippers, the centre for the con- 
gregation on special occasions, and 
the innermost being the naijin, or 
chancel. This latter is divided into 
three compartments, the central 
one being occupied by the shumi- 
dan, a platform on which stands a 
handsome gilt shrine holding an 
image of Amida about d ft. high. 
Both the shumi-dan and the table 
in front are enriched with small 
painted carvings. R. of the chief 
shrine is a smaller one, with an 
image of the founder of the sect, 
Shinran Shonin, (p. 83). The 
Kakemono in the shrine to the 1. 
represents Juno Shonin, grand- 
father of the present high priest. 
In the ramma along the front of the 
naijin are gilt open-work carvings 
of angels, with gilt carvings of the 



238 



Route 23. — The Tokaido. 



peacock and phoenix in the kaeru- 
mata above. The heavy beams 
of the ceiling are supported by 
carvings of lotus-flowers and leaves. 
In some of the kaeru-mata over 
these beams are spirited carvings 
of conventional lions. The ceiling 
itself is unpainted, and divided into 
coffers about 3 ft. square. The 
compartments r. and 1. of the altar 
have gilt coppered ceilings. In the 
kaeru-mata of the external colon- 
nade are groups of Chinese genii, 
each with his attendant animal. 
The series is continued round the 
sides by the crane, the lion, and 
the flying dragon. The building 
to the r. is a reception hall 
( Taimenjo), used by the Lord Abbot 
on great occasions. As usual in 
Hongwanji temples, there is another 
building called the Jiki-do, 
connected with the main building 
by a bridge. Though less elaborate 
than the main altar, the altar of the 
Jiki-do is yet a fine blaze of gold. 
R. and 1. of the central image of 
Amida, are gold sliding screens 
representing mountain scenery. 
The Abbot's Apartments contain 
several kakemonos and other works 
of art, which are, however, generally 
stowed away in a godown. In front 
of the main gate is an avenue of 
drooping cherry-trees, — a pretty 
sight in April. The odd-looking 
row of buildings parallel to the 
avenue is a set of lodgings (Kwaisho) 
where worshippers from the country 
are housed. 

Go-hyaku Kakan (properly 
Dairyiiji). Though this ugly little 
temple on the N. E. limit of the 
city is nothing in itself, it well 
deserves a visit for the sake of the 
gallery behind (application to the 
custodian necessary), where are 
kept five hundred images of Bud- 
dha's chief disciples, mostly about 
2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and 
all different. Some are smiling, 
some are solemn, some are fierce, 
some stupid-looking, some have a 
supercilious air, some an air of 
smug self-satisfaction, some few 



are lying down, others are praying, 
others again have their arms ex- 
tended in the attitude of benedic- 
tion, one has three eyes, one holds 
a tiger-cub in his arms, one with a 
gold halo bestrides a peacock with 
outstretched wings, others ride on 
horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so 
on, almost ad infinitum. No wonder 
the Japanese say that among the 
Five Hundred Eakan, every spec- 
tator can find the likeness of his 
own father by dint of a little 
searching. 

The images are said to date from the 
beginning of the 18th century. A keen 
eye will detect among the mass some 
much better carved than the rest. They 
are chocolate-coloured, and stand a good 
way on in the collection, — one of them 
recumbent, a second leaning on his hand, 
a third clasping his knee, etc. These are 
genuinely by Tametaka, an artist to whom 
the whole collection is incorrectly at- 
tributed. This sculptor is best-known as 
a carver of netsuke. His spirited, life-like 
figures tell out among the grotesqueness 
of the rest. 

The remaining temples of Nagoya 
are much inferior in interest. 
Mkokuji, the Nishi Hongwanji, Osu 
Kwannon, (many raree-shows), 
Nanatsu-dera, and Kaku-b-den, 
may be mentioned. A great re- 
ligious procession is held yearly on 
the 15-17th days of the 4th moon, 
old style (some time in May), when 
each of the twelve principal wards 
of the city furnishes a car illustrat- 
ing some subject, historical or 
legendary. Another interesting 
festival is the Feast of Lanterns, 
held on the 13th-14th days of the 
6th moon, old style, when the 
whole town is illuminated. 

Nagoya, like most other large 
towns, possesses a number of new, 
uninteresting buildings in the style 
or no style known in the Japan of 
to-day as "foreign." Such are the 
Prefecture and Local Assembly Hall, 
opposite which stands a monument, 
shaped like a fuse, dedicated to the 
memory of deceased soldiers. The 
pepper-caster top of the Nagoya 
Hotel looms above the rest as a 
convenient beacon. 



Gifu. The Waterfall of Yoro. 



239 



[Two excursions from Nagoya 
may be recommended : — 1. 
To Atsuia, h hr., where visit 
the temples (see p. 235), whence 
by boat along the head of 
Owari Bay for fishing and 
pretty sea views. — 2. To the 
potteries of Seto, and to the Bud- 
dhist temple of Kokei-zan, for 
which see pp. 254-5.] 

From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the 
mil way line deserts the old Tokai- 
dd, and though called the Tokaido 
Railway, really follows the Naka- 
sendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train 
wends on through more and ever 
more rice-fields, with blue moun- 
tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1. 
They are the mountains dividing 
the provinces of Owari and Mino 
from those of Omi and Ise. Four- 
teen miles out of Nagoya, the line 
crosses the Kisogawa, the river 
whose upper course forms so beau- 
tiful a portion of the Nakasendo, 
and which is picturesque even here 
near its mouth. 

Gifu (Inns, *Tamai-ya, Tsu-no- 
kuni-ya, both 12 cho from station) 
is an important place, and capital 
of the prefecture of the same name, 
which includes the two provinces 
of Mino and Hida. A conical hill 
named Kinkwa-zan, N. E. of the 
town, was the site of a castle built 
by the great warrior Oda Nobunaga. 
The view hence of Ontake and the 
ShinshO. Koma-ga-take, with the 
Hida range, well repays the climb. 
The traveller will also be taken to 
Inaba-yama, near the centre of the 
town, where stands a Shinto shrine. 

Raw silk and the silk of the wild silk- 
worm (yamamai) are produced in large 
quantities in the neighbourhood, most of 
it being woven into crape. In this the 
glittering threads of the wild-silk, which 
takes the dyes in a less degree than that 
of the ordinary silkworm, are introduced 
to form the pattern. The mon-chirimen 
woven in this manner is a favourite 
fabric. Gifu is also noted for its paper- 
lanterns and other paper wares, the 
Mino-gami being universally prized. 

In the summer-time a night may 



be spent at Gifu, to see a curious 
method of fishing with the help of 
cormorants (u-kai) on the River 
Nagara. House-boats may be 
engaged for this purpose; but the 
fishermen do not go out on moon- 
light nights. The traveller is 
referred for a full description to the 
article entitled " Cormorant-fishing " 
in Things Japanese. A pretty 
festival called Kaica Matsuri is held 
on the river on the 16th day of the 
6th moon, old style. — On nearing 

Ogaki (Inns, Ky6maru-ya, at 
station; Tama-ya), the castle of 
the former Daimyo, with one turret 
remaining, is seen 1. of the line. 
Far away to the r., Haku-san rears 
its head over a nearer range. 

[Not to the hurried tourist, but to 
the leisurely lover of Old Japan 
and her ways, a day or two at 
Yoro, in this neighbourhood, 
may be recommended. It lies 
some 7J m. by rail from Ogaki 
on the branch line connecting 
that place with Kuwana on the 
Kwansai By. 

The raison d'etre of the little 
village of Yoro (Inns, *Kiku- 
sui-rd, Yasuda-ya), of the gar- 
dens, and of the Kairaku-sha 
club-house is the celebrated 
waterfall called Ybrb-ga-taki. 

This name, which may be translat- 
ed as " the Cascade of Filial Piety," is 
explained by the following legend. 
In A.D. 717 there lived a wood-cut- 
ter so filial in his conduct that he 
was wont to expend the proceeds 
of his toil on sake for his aged 
father, whose great passion was 
strong drink. As a reward for such 
exemplary piety, there was one day 
revealed to him the existence of 
this cascade, which consists (or at 
least consisted at that time) of pure 
and excellent sake. The legend 
forms a favourite art motive. 

Both the Kikusui-r5 inn and 
the Kairakusha club (upper 
storey closed to public) com- 
mand lovely views of the broad 
sweep of the Mino plain, with 
Ontake, Ena-san, and other 
mountains beyond. Charming, 



240 



Route 2d.— The Tokaido. 



too, are the thoroughly Japanese 
arrangement of the park, and 
the walk up to the waterfall 
through 5 cho of cherry and ma- 
ple-trees. The fall itself, which 
is 105 ft. high, is embosomed 
in maple-trees. Yor5 is a cool 
place in summer. In winter 
the Shimo-ike, a large mere a 
little over 1 ri to the S. E., 
swarms with wild-geese, duck, 
etc., which are taken by means 
of nets, and at all seasons with 
eels, carp, and perch, which 
help to supply the Kyoto fish- 
market. The distance to the 
summit of Yoro-yama is locally 
estimated at 2 ri. An extensive 
view rewards the climber ; but 
the ascent is difficult. — While 
in this neighbourhood, one 
might visit the marble quarries 
of Akasaka-yama, 1 ri 10 cho 
from Ogaki in the direction of 
Tarui, and the celebrated 
temple of Tanigumi-dera, some 
7 ri to the N. of Tarui by 
a jinrikisha road. This temple 
is the thirty-third and last of 
the Places Sacred to the God- 
dess Kwannon (see Ete. 40), 
and here accordingly the pil- 
grims deposit their pilgrim 
shirts (oizuru). It can scarcely 
be recommended except on 
festival days, viz. the 17th July 
which is the yearly festival, 
and the 18th of all the other 
months.] 
Seki-ga-liara (Inn, Masu-ya). 

Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which 
nieaDs literally "Moor of the Barrier." 
from the barrier of Fuwa (Fuwa no seki) 
established at this spot in A.D. 673 by the 
Emperor Temmu, it having been a Japan- 
ese custom from the earliest period down 
to the beginning of the present reign to 
hamper free communication throughout 
the country by means of barriers near the 
capital, which none might pass without a 
special permit. Doubtless the original 
object was to guard against incursions of 
the barbarians of the East and North. 
Seki-ga-hara is celebrated in Japanese 
history as the scene of a decisive victory 
gained by Ieyasu in the year 1600 over the 
partisans of Hideyori, infant son of the 
great Hideyoshi, 



Here the journey across the plain 
terminates, and the T6kaid5 Kail- 
way again enters diversified sce- 
nery, as it plunges among the hills 
that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa. 

Between Seki-ga-hara and Naga- 
oka ( Inn, Mitsuke-ya) the gradient 
is steep, the line being led up a 
narrow valley opening out on a 
small plain devoted to the cultiva- 
tion of the mulberry-tree. 

[The tall bare mountain frequent- 
ly seen looming up to the r. 
during this portion of the jour- 
ney is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 
ft.), one of the "Seven High 
Mountains " of Central Japan, 
and noted for its wealth of 
medicinal plants. It may best 
be ascended from Nagaoka, 
whence about 3 hrs. to the 
summit, which commands a 
splendid view. The slope is 
grassy and in parts steep. 

The " Seven High Mountains " are 
Hiei-zan near Kyoto, Hirayama in 
Omi, Ibuki-yama, Kimpu-zan (or 
Omine) near Yoshino, Atago-yama in 
Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazura- 
ki-yama. Great landslides occurred 
on Ibuki-yama as a consequence of 
the severe earthquake of August, 
1909.] 

Passing among pine-clad hills, 
we reach 

Maibara (Inn, Izutsu-ya at 
station), whence all the way on to 
Baba, the_station for the important 
town of Otsu, the line runs along 
the basin of Lake Biwa, though 
unfortunately not near enough to 
the shore to allow of many glimpses 
of the lake being obtained. The 
whole scenery is, however, pretty, 
— and pretty in a way of its own. 
Quite close, to the 1., is the range of 
hills forming the southern rim of 
the Lake Biwa basin ; far away to 
the r., in the dim distance, are the 
blue mountains enclosing the lake 
on the N., while immediately on 
either side of the line is a fair, 
cultivated plain. At 

Hikone (Inn, *Eaku-raku-en), 



From Hikone to Kobe. 



241 



the former Daimyo's castle is seen 
r. on a wooded bill. For the fish- 
traps to be observed in the lake, 
see the small type near the begin- 
ning of Koute 38. Three rivers are 
crossed before reaching Notogaica. 
The cone of Mikami-yama, also 
called Mukade-yama, shaped like 
Fuji but thickly wooded, begins to 
peep up from behind a nearer range 
of hills before arriving at 

Kusatsu (Inn, Uo-sei). A few 
min. later, the most striking view 
on the whole Tokaido, W. of Shizu- 
oka, is obtained on crossing the 
Setagawa, where the lake opens out 
and the celebrated "long bridge" 
(Seta no Kaga-hashi) is seen to the 
1. up stream. From 

Baba or Otsu (Inn, Hakkei- 
kwan, semi-Europ.), the line passes 
through a tunnel under Osaka- 
yama (nothing to do with the city 
of Osaka), before running into the 
small station of Otani, where it 
emerges on a narrow valley. The 
hills are covered with that thick 
growth of pine-trees characteristic 
of all the country round about 
Kyoto. 

[For further details concerning 
the portion of the T6kaid5 
Koute lying between Maibara 
and Otani, see Eoute 38.] 

The train then passes through 
the stations of Yamashina and 
Inari. Over 11,000 pilgrims alight 
at this latter place on the occasion 
of the yearly festival of the great 
Shinto temple of Inari, for which 
see Koute 37. The train then 
enters_the old capital, 

Kyoto, after which it crosses a 
wide plain, and passes through 
several minor stations before reach- 
ing the great commercial city of 

Osaka. From here onwards, the 
hills in the distance to the r. begin 
to draw in, the broad fruitful plain 
rapidly contracts until it becomes 
a mere strip fringing the sea-shore, 
and at the station of 



Nishi-no-miya there begins 
to rise r. the screen of somewhat 
barren hills that help to give Kobe 
its good climate by protecting that 
part of the coast from wintry 
blasts. The high land seen in the 
distance across the water is not, as 
might be supposed, an island, but 
a portion of the province of Izumi. 
At Nishi-no-miya stands a small 
but famous Temple of Ebisu, one of 
the Seven Gods of Luck, to which 
crowds of worshippers flock on the 
1st Day of the Horse (Hatsu-uma) 
of the 1st moon, old style, — general- 
ly some day in February. This 
district is one of the chief centres 
of sake manufacture. The three 
tunnels here passed through are 
remarkable, as going under river- 
beds. Owing to the proximity of 
the mountains to the sea, quantities 
of sand and stones are swept down 
whenever the streams are swollen 
by rain. As a consequence of this, 
the river-beds tend constantly to 
raise themselves more and more 
above the general level of the 
country, which they traverse like 
dykes. Occasionally a dyke breaks 
down, and then ensues an inunda- 
tion with attendant loss of life 
and property. Soon after passing 
through Sumiyoshi, — an insignifi- 
cant place not to be confounded 
with the well-known Sumiyoshi near 
Sakai, — the train runs in to 

San-no-miya, and the long 
journey is at an end, San-no-miya 
being the station for the former 
foreign settlement of Kobe. To go 
on one station further, to what is 
officially called 

Kobe, would carry the traveller 
past his destination into the Japa- 
nese town. It must therefore be 
distinctly borne in mind that, if 
bound for Kobe, one must book 
only as far as San-no-miya. For 
Kobe and Neighbourhood, see 
Koute 35. 



242 Route 24. — By Steamer from Yokohama to Kobe. 



KOTJTE 24. 



By Steamek fkom Yokohama 
to Kobe.* 

While steaming down T6ky5 Bay, 
there is a good view of Fuji with 
the Hakone range is the foreground 
on the r. ; on the 1. is the flat shore 
of the province of Kazusa. At 1 
hr., the ship will be near Kwannon- 
saki, on which there is a fixed white 
light visible 14 miles, showing a red 
ray in a certain direction to guide 
vessels clear of Saratoga Spit (Fut- 
tsu-saki) and Plymouth Bocks to 
the southward. 

Powerful forts have been con- 
structed on Kwannon-saki, on Sara- 
toga Spit, and also in the centre of 
the channel in 26 fathoms of water, 
for the defence of the Bay. After 
passing Kwannon-saki, the ship 
steers down the Uraga Channel, 
so called from the town of that 
name (p. 106), on the shores of a 
small harbour a few miles S.W. of 
Kwannon-saki, which was formerly 
the port of entry for Tokyo Bay. 
At 2 hrs., Tsurugi-saM — the south 
end of the channel — is rounded, 
where there is a light visible 24 m. 
Thence the track lies S.W. to Kock 
Island across the Bay of Sagami, 
which opens on the r., and close 
along the north end of Vries Island, 
described in Boute 85. From 4 to 6 
hrs., the ship will be running almost 
parallel to the coast of the pen- 
insula of Izu (Bte. 7), within 10 m. 
of the shore. A fine prospect may 
be enjoyed of its rugged mountain 
chain, with Fuji, which towers be- 
hind, bearing N. W. The island 
beyond Vries, looking like a cocked- 
hat, is Toshima, the second of 
the Seven Isles of Izu. At 6 



*The expressions, at 1 hour, at 2 
hours, etc., in the description of this 
voyage, signify when the steamer has 
been 1 hour out of Yokohama, 2 hours 
out of Yokohama, etc., taking 12 knots 
per hour as the average speed. 



hrs., Bock Island (Mikomoto), off 
the extreme S. of Izu, is reached; 
on it is a fine light visible 20 
m. From Bock Island, the direct 
route is W.S.W. to the S.E. ex- 
tremity of the province of Kishu. 
This course, which is followed in 
the summer months, leads the ship 
so far oif shore that little can 
be distinguished. But in winter, 
the N.W. winds generally blow so 
strongly that, to avoid the heavy 
sea, the ship, after passing Bock 
Island, is kept due W., crossing the 
mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9 
hrs. is off Omae-zaki, distinguish- 
able at night by a white revolving 
light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60 
m. distant, and will not be seen 
much after this point, except in 
clear winter weather. From Omae- 
zaki the track recedes for some 
hours from the land, which, being 
low, is not particularly interesting ; 
and if the ship left Yokohama just 
before sunset, this part will be 
passed in the night. At 13 hrs. the 
ship is off Owari Bay, a deep bay 
stretching some 30 m. to the north- 
ward, narrow at the entrance, but 
widening out considerably inside. 
It is from Omae-zaki to this point 
that the voyage is generally most 
trying to bad sailors. At 15 hrs. 
the_ship is off Cape Shima, whence 
to Oshima is a run of 70 m., grad- 
ually approaching the land, where 
fine views of the bold and pictur- 
esque mountains of the provinces of 
Kishu and Yamato are obtained. 
This part of the coast is frequented 
by whales, many of which run to 
50 ft. long. Several steamers are 
engaged in the whaling trade. 

From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is the 
most enjoyable part of the run 
from_Yokohama to Kobe. Bound- 
ing Oshima, which is marked by a 
white revolving light visible 18 
miles, at 20 hrs. the vessel is close 
enough to the shore to note the 
thickly studded fishing villages, 
whose fleets of boats cover the 
water for miles. Half an hour's 
steaming from Oshima brings us to 



Route 25. — Karuizawa-NaoetsU'Niigata Railway. 243 



Shio-Misaki, on which is a light 
visible 20 m. From Shio-Misaki the 
track lies close along the shore — 
sometimes within 2 m., seldom 
more than 4 m. — to Hiino-MisaM, 
a run of 47 m., which, if made in 
daylight, will be even more enjoy- 
able than the 70 m. mentioned 
above. The bold hills to the r. are 
those of the province of Kishu. 
The land to the 1. is the E. coast 
of the Island of Shikoku. At 25 
hrs., the ship is oif Hiino-Misaki, 
and after steering due north for 26 
m., will pass through Izumi or 
Yura Strait, which is about 6 m. 
wide, the passage for ships being 
narrowed to 2 m. by two islands 
called Ji-no-shima and Oki-no- 
shima, on the "W. side of which 
latter is a lighthouse. Observe 
both r. and 1. how the heights have 
been levelled for the erection of 
forts, to protect this approach to 
Osaka and Kobe. From the light 
on the islet in Yura Strait to 
Kobe is a run of 26 m. across a 
landlocked bay, with the large 
Island of Awaji on the left, 
Kobe is generally reached at from 
28 to 30 hrs. The highest hill seen 
to the r., with white temple build- 
ings sparkling in the sun, is Maya- 
san ; the highest away to the 1. be- 
hind Hyogo is Takatori. 

Passenger steamers usually re- 
main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which affords 
an opportunity to visit Kyoto. 

The chief distances of the run 
between Yokohama and Kobe, as 
made by the Nippon Yusen Kicai- 
sha steamers, are as follows : — 

l T okohama to : — Miles, 

Kwannon-saki 14 

Cape Sagami 23 

Rock Island 74 

Oshima 244 

Hiino-Misaki 297 

Oki-no-shima 322 

Hyogo Point 346 

Kobe Pier 348 



ROUTE 25. 



Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata 
Railway. 

1. temple of zenkoji. lake nojiri. 
2. island of sado. 



c3 

8 * 


Names 




« a g 

fflfj J 3 


of 


Remarks 




Stations 








(Tokyo to Ka- 


Miles 


KARUIZAWA . . . 


\ ruizawa (see 
( Rte. 11). 


6 


Oiwake 




8 


Miyoda 




13£ 


Koinoro 




19* 


Tanaka 




21* 


Oya 




24* 


UEDA 




46 


Sakaki 




Yashiro 

Shinonoi Jet. .... 
NAGANO 


| Change for 
\ Matsumoto. 


48§ 


Yoshida 


( Road to Kusa- 


52f 


Toyono 


< tsu over the 


57| 


Mure 


( ShibuPass. 


64 


Kashiwa-bara ... 


( Alight for 
( Lake Nojiri. 


69* 


Taguchi 


( Alight for 
( Akakura. 


73f 


Sekiyama 




81* 


Arai 




87£ 


Takata 




92 


NAOETSU Jet. 




92* 


Kasuga Shinden 




96* 


Saigata 




99 


Katamachi 




103 


Kakizaki 




106* 


Hassaki 




uo± 


Omigawa 




1121 


Kujira-nami 




114* 


Kashiwa-zaki 




118 J* 


Yasuda 




1192 


Kitajo 




126 f 


Tsnkano-yama 




131* 


Raikoji 




135* 


Miya-uchi 




137* 


NAGAOKA 




141| 


Oshikiri 




144* 


Mitsuke 




147 


Obiori 




150J 


SAN JO 


f Alight for 
\ Iyahiko. 




151| 


Ichi-no-kido 




156* 


Karri o 




163^ 


Yashiro da 




167 


Niitsu 




172| 


Karri eda 




176* 


NIIGATA |(Nut- 
tari) 





244 Route 25. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway. 



This line, starting from an ele- 
vation of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa, 
descends to the sea-coast at Nao- 
etsu, and is one of the most pictur- 
esque railway routes in Japan. 
The second section, from Naoetsu 
to Niigata, is much inferior. — The 
first five or six miles are over a 
fairly level plain; but the condi- 
tions are changed when the south- 
ern slope of Asama-yama has to 
be rounded. Here lies a water-shed 
whence flow large rivers north and 
south, towards the Sea of Japan 
and the Pacific respectively. All 
the drainage of the volcano pours 
down through deep gullies into the 
channel of one or other of these 
rivers. The soil, a loosely packed 
volcanic ash and gravel of light 
colour, is easily scooped away, and 
large chasms are left whose sides 
the old highway descends and as- 
cends in zigzags. Throughout most 
of this section, the traveller looks 
down from a giddy height on rice- 
fields far below. From a point near 
Oiwake, where the Nakasendo is 
left behind, on to Komoro, oppor- 
tunities are afforded of seeing to 
advantage the Iwamurata plain, 
backed by the imposing range of 
Yatsu-ga-take. Asama-yama has a 
less smiling aspect on this side : the 
flat top of the cone lengthens out, 
the pinky brown colour of the sides 
assumes a blackish hue, and chasms 
rough with indurated lava break the 
regularity of the slopes. Before 
Komoro is reached, a long volcanic 
ridge, dominating the valley of 
the Kiver Chikuma as far as Ueda, 
reveals the fact that Asama is not 
an isolated cone, but the last and 
highest of a range of mountains. 
A former crater, which has dis- 
charged itself into this valley and 
is now extinct, displays a row of 
black jagged rocks in the hollow 
between Asama and the next peak 
of the range, — a striking feature as 
seen from Komoro. 

Komoro {Inn, Tsuru-ya; Tea- 
house in public garden) is a busy 
commercial centre. Formerly the 



seat of a Daimyo, its picturesque 
castle-grounds overhanging the 
river have been converted into a 
public garden. A short description 
of the old Temple of Shakusonji, 
which lies 1 ri from the station, 
will be found on p. 178. 

From Komoro to Ueda the rail- 
way runs down the valley of the 
Chikuma-gawa, whose S. bank is 
here formed by a series of bold 
bluffs, in many places descending 
sheer into the water. This river, 
also called the Shinano-gawa, flow- 
ing towards the N., becomes one of 
the great rivers of Japan, and falls 
into the sea at Niigata. The massive 
Shinshu-Hida range is now also in 
sight, its mountains, even in the 
height of summer, being streaked 
with snow. A few miles before 
Ueda, the valley opens out into a 
circular plain of which that town 
is the centre. 

Ueda [Inn, Uemura-kwan at 
station). White and other silks of 
a durable quality are the principal 
products of the district. It is 
specially noted for a stout striped 
fabric called Ueda-jima. The old 
castle of Ueda, of which one watch- 
tower remains intact, stands on the 
r. of the railway, beyond the town. 
The exit from the amphitheatre of 
hills enclosing Ueda is narrow and 
hidden from view. Just before the 
line appoaches it, a curious bluff 
with a cavern in its face is notice- 
able on the other side of the river. 

Between Sakaki and the next 
station Jies the vill. of Tokura {Inn, 
Sasa-ya), possessing hot-springs 
whose source is in the river bed. 

[From here one may ascend Ka- 
buriki-yama, a sharp peak on 
the opposite bank crowned by 
a clump of trees and com- 
manding a splendid pano- 
rama of the mountains of Shin- 
shu. Height above the river, 
nearly 3,000 ft. ; time, 2J hours. 
One may descend to Obasute 
station on the Shinonoi line 



Nagano. Temple of Zenkoji. 



245 



(see Bte. 27), about the same 
distance.] 

The hills on the r., covered almost 
to their tops with mulberry planta- 
tions, recall the vineyards on the 
banks of the Rhine and Moselle. 
At 

Yashiro (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a 
road branches off to the important 
town of Matsushiro, and down the 
r. bank of the Chikuma-gawa to 
Niigata. From 

Shinonoi (Inn, Shiro-ya), a line 
of railway diverges due S., through 
mountainous country, to the large 
town of Matsumoto and to Shiojiri 
on the Nakasendo. The plain to 
the r. beyond Shinonoi known as 
Kavcanaka-jima, was the scene of 
a famous battle between Takeda 
Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin (see 
pp. 84-5). Before reaching Nagano, 
both the Chikuma and the Saigawa 
are crossed. One of the spans of 
the Saigawa bridge is 200 ft. long. 

Nagano (Inns, Fuji-ya, near the 
temple, with branch at station ; 
Saiho-kwan ditto; Mirop. Bestt,, 
Seiyd-ken) is the capital of the 
prefecture of Nagano, which com- 
prises the whole province of Shin- 
shu. It is beautifully situated at the 
foot of lofty mountains, which form 
an imposing background and al- 
most surround it (see next Route). 
Its numerous inns and the crowds 
of pilgrims thronging the streets, 
give the town an air of exceptional 
prosperity. A Club called Jozan- 
kwan, which has a room of 144 
mats, commands a fine prospect. 
The Buddhist Temple of Zenkoji, 
belonging to the Tendai sect, is 
one of the most celebrated in the 
whole empire. 

It was founded as far back as A.D. 670, 
though the oldest portion of the present 
buildings dates only from the latter half 
of the loth century. It ia dedicated to 
Amida and his two followers, Kwannon 
and Daiseishi, a group of whose images is 
here enshrined : also to Honda Yoshi- 
mitsu and his wife and son, Yayoi-no-Mae 
and Yoshisuke, who are worshipped as 
the pious founders. The sacred group is 
said to have been made by Shaka Muni 



himself out of gold found on Mount 
Shumi, the centre of the Universe. After 
various vicissitudes in China and Korea, 
it was brought to Japan in A.D. 552, as a 
present from the King of Korea to the 
Mikado on the first introduction of Bud- 
dhism into Japan. All the efforts of the 
Japanese enemies of Buddhism to make 
away with the image were in vain. 
Thrown into rivers, hacked at, burnt, it 
survived all, and finally found a resting- 
place here. 

The Japanese proverb " Ushi ni MJca- 
rete Zenkoji-mairi," lit. " to be led to 
the Zenkoji pilgrimage by a cow " refers 
to an old legend. A cow, so the story 
goes, ran off one day with a piece of cloth 
which a wicked old woman had set out 
to dry, and was pursued by her to the 
temple, where Buddha, appearing in a 
halo of light, softened her heart and re- 
warded her even in this world by restor- 
ing her washing to her when she reached 
home again. The proverb applies to good 
coming out of evil. 

The principal festivals are the Dai 
Nembutsu, or Great Invocation of Buddha, 
held on the 31st July, those held at the 
vernal and autumnal equinoxes, and one 
on the 14th March, in commemoration of 
a terrible earthquake which shook this 
region in 1847. The 13th July is a civic 
gala day. A specially grand festival is 
held once every six years in April and 
May : the last of these occurred in 1907. 

Rows of shops for the sale of 
rosaries and pictures of the sacred 
triad line the court. Behind the 
shops are the houses of the priests, 
each in its own trim garden. 
At the end of this court is the 
chief gateway, with images of 
Monju and the Shi-Tennd, which 
are exhibited only on New Year's 
day. The building 1. of the entrance, 
called Dai-Hongwan, is the resi- 
dence of an abbess belonging to the 
Imperial family ( Ama Miya Sama), 
and of a sisterhood of nuns. It 
was rebuilt in the old style during 
the years 1890-1900, and glitters 
with gold. The gallery behind is 
used to exhibit pictures and other 
works of art, whence the visitor pass- 
es to the Princess's private oratory 
and her reception room. Higher up 
and also to the 1. is the Dai- 
Kanshin, the residence of the abbot. 
Both sets of buildings have pretty 
gardens. At one or other, accord- 
ing to circumstances, religious 
pictures and charms are sold, also 



246 Route 25. — Karuizaiva-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway, 



shirts called kyb-katabira, lit. 
" sutra shirts." Each pilgrim pur- 
chases one, and keeps it by him 
till the hour of death, to be dressed 
in it for burial. At the same time, 
what is called a kechi-myaku — a 
particular kind of charm — is placed 
in the corpse's hand. 

There is also a gallery behind the 
Dai-Kanshin containing works of 
art, Buddhist furniture, etc. (A 
small charge is made for admission). 
The image of the patron saint 
(Kai-cho) of the monastery, in the 
subsidiary shrine attached, is re- 
moved to the main temple on the 
occasion of the great festival every 
six years. Both buildings possess 
an ihai-do or hall lined with thou- 
sands of funeral tablets. 

The Main Temple, erected in 
1701, is a two-storied building 198 
ft. in depth by 108 ft. in width, 
with a huge three-gabled roof, so 
that the ridge is T-shaped. This 
form is called shumoku-zukuri, 
from its resemblance to the shu- 
moku, a wooden hammer with 
which the Buddhists strike the 
small bell used by them in their 
religious services. The roof is 
supported by 136 pillars, and there 
are said to be 69,384 rafters, the 
same number as that of the written 
characters contained in the Chi- 
nese version of the Buddhist scrip- 
tures. The sacred golden group, 
standing in a shrine on the W. 
side, is kept in a reliquary dating 
from A. D. 1369, shrouded by a 
curtain of gorgeous brocade. For 
a moderate fee, the curtain is raised 
so as to show the outermost of the 
seven boxes in which the image is 
enclosed. A space of 83 mats 
(about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for 
the worshippers. On the E. side of 
the main hall is an entrance to a 
dark gallery which runs round 
below the floor of the chancel 
(naijin), issuing again by the same 
door. To complete this circuit 
(kaidan-mawari or tai-nai-meguri) 
thrice, is believed to save the 
pilgrim from the peril of eternal 



damnation. More than 200 bronze 
and stone lanterns crowd the space 
in front of the main hall. 

In front of the Kybzb, or Sacred 
Library, on the 1. of the main 
building, are two praying- wheels in 
stone, fixed in pedestals 7 ft. high, 
and bearing the invocation "JS r amu 
Amida Buisu." 

On the r. of the temple enclosure 
is the Public Garden. 

About 1 ri N.E. of the town 
stands Burando Yakushi, a shrine 
dedicated to the Buddhist god of 
medicine, perched high above the 
path in a large tree growing out of a 
rock. Close by are some petroleum 
springs. 

Nagano makes a good starting- 
point for the ascent of the fine 
mountains Togakushi and Izuna 
described in Route 26. 

Leaving Nagano, the railway 
continues along the plain as far as 

Toyono (Inn, Toyono-kwan). 
Here it enters a narrow valley, 
which it follows up until Kashiwa- 
bara is reached at a height of 2,200 
ft. At Toyono, a road leads over 
the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see p. 
186). A fine view is obtained of 
Izuna-san on the 1. as 

Kasliiwabara (Inn, Nakamura- 
ya) is approached. This section of 
the line traverses a region where 
the snowfall is peculiarly heavy, 
drifts accumulating to a depth of 
over 10 ft. and stopping all traffic. 

[The traveller with time to spare 
should alight here to visit the 
beautiful little lake called No- 
jiri-ko, 1 ri distant, and then 
proceed to Akakura, 3 ri 
further, lying on the side of 
Myokd-zan, and noted for its 
hot springs. Jinrikishas can 
be taken all the way. Those 
going direct to Akakura alight 
at the next station, Taguchi, 
from which the baths are 1 ri 
23 cho distant by a rough jin- 
rikisha road. The way from 
Kashiwabara leads through a 



Akakura. Naoetsu. 



247 



pleasant oak-wood, whence it 
descends slightly to 

XJojiri (small inn), situated 
on the shores of the lake, 
which is surrounded by low 
hills covered with thickets. On 
a densely wooded islet is a 
temple called Uga-no-Jinja. 
The view of the giant masses 
of Izuna, Kurohime, and Myo- 
ko-zan, as seen from the island, 
is exceptionally striking. The 
waters of the lake find an outlet 
into the Sekigawa, which falls 
into the sea at Naoetsu. 

Akakura is an agreeable 
summer resort. It possesses 
many Inns, (*Kogaku-ro; K6- 
un-kwan, with Europ. dishes), 
open from June to October 
inclusiye, and numerous baths, 
public and private, which are 
supplied with hot water brought 
in pipes from sources 2 ri 
further up the mountain . From 
the hamlet, nothing obstructs 
the prospect of the rich plain 
extending down to Naoetsu on 
the Sea of Japan, and of the 
island of Sado on the dim 
horizon. About 3 ri on 2 , be- 
tween Kurohime and Myokd- 
zan is a large waterfall called 
Xae no Taki. — Akakura is the 
most convenient point from 
which to ascend JIyoko-2an, an 
extinct volcano described in 
Eoute 26.] 

There is a falling gradient of 
about 600 ft. in the 4 J m. traversed 
between Taguchi and Sekiyama. 
The country becomes natter before 
reaching 

Arai (Inn, Ju-ichi-ya), a flourish- 
ing town noted for its petroleum, 
the springs being in the immediate 
neighbourhood. Here is first seen 
the custom common to most of the 
towns in Echigo, of having covered 
ways along the house-fronts, for use 
when the snow lies deep in the 
streets. 

Takata (Inn, Koyd-kwan) is a 
large place, formerly the castle-town 



of a Daimy5 named SakaMbara, 
one of the four families who enjoyed 
the privilege of providing a regent 
during the minority of a Shogun. 
The sport of ski-ing, introduced in 
1910 by the military stationed here, 
has been enthusiastically taken up 
in the neighbourhood. At Takata 
and places on the North-TTest 
Coast will be observed a curious 
method of cold storage in the huge 
mounds of snow covered with straw 
matting. They are used for the 
preservation in summer of fish 
caught during the winter. Takata 
produces an excellent jelly called 
aica-ame made from millet. The 
highway called Hokkoku Kaido 
branches off 1. near here to the 
provinces of Kaga, Echizen, etc., 
(see Eoute 46). 

Naoetsu (Inns, *Matsuba-kwan ; 
Ika-gon, both with branch at sta- 
tion), near the mouth of the Seki- 
gawa, is an unattractive port of call 
for steamers to Fushiki (10 to 12 
hrs.), and other places on the West 
Coast. A great annual horse — or, 
to be quite correct, mare — fair is 
held during the month of July in 
the suburb of Kasuga Shinden. 
The animals are brought from 
Shiiya and other localities in the 
province of Echigo. Near Naoetsu 
stand some extensive oil refineries. 

Although the discovery of oil in the 
province of Echigo dates from a very 
early period, the development of the 
industry itself is of modern origin, the 
first serious attempt to work the oil-fields 
dating from 1875. But the industry did 
not assume noteworthy dimensions until 
1889, when the wells lying in the range 
of low hills called Higashi-yama, some 3 
ri to the E. of the city of Xagaoka were 
opened up. Till then most of the dig- 
ging had been done by hand, and the oil 
brought to the surface by hand pulleys. 
Numerous companies now sprang into 
existence. American machine-pumps 
were set up, and iron conduits laid to 
convey the crude oil from the wells 
into the refineries. Through subsequent 
discoveries of oil-fields in other parts of 
the province, notably at Nagamine and 
Kamada, near Kashiwa-zaki in 1898, the 
industry grew by leaps and bounds. Ulti- 
mately it came under the management of 
the Standard Oil Company of New York, 



248 



Route 25. — Raruizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway. 



but has now again passed into Japanese 
hands. 

One mile to the S.W. of Naoetsu, 
on the highway to Toyama, stands 
a massive old Buddhist temple, 
dedicated to the Gochi Nyorai, or 
Five Gods of Wisdom (whence the 
hamlet itself, properly Kokubunji, is 
currently spoken of as Gochi). Five 
colossal gilt images of these divini- 
ties line the altar. The case 1., 
full of dolls, represents many broken 
hearts. When a child dies, its 
mother purchases a doll as nearly 
like her lost darling as possible, and 
offers it up here to the merciful god 
Jizo (see p. 47). Chief festival on 
the 8th May. A lesser temple in the 
same grounds was for five years the 
abode of Shinran Shdnin (p. 83). 
Some 3 or 4 cho further on, at 
Komari-yama, is another favourite 
Buddhist shrine. Gochi itself is 
nowadays more resorted to for 
pleasure than for piety, especially in 
the summer time, as some fine 
restaurants have been built on the 
adjacent bluff, which commands a 
wide sea view : — graceful Yoneyama 
is the chief feature, while Sado r., 
and Noto 1. appear in dim outline. 
Good bathing may be had on the 
long stretch of sandy beach imme- 
diately below. 

Leaving Naoetsu and Kasuga 
Shinden, the railway runs among 
small pine-trees, following the coast, 
which at first is flat and sandy. 
There are seven tunnels between 
Hassaki and Omigawa cut through 
the lower spurs of Yoneyama, which 
here come down to the sea. After 
this, the line trends away among 
dull hillocks and fields. 

All this coast district, as far as a town 
called Tera-domari, is inhabited by a 
population of hardy fishermen ; and the 
sea yields bream (tai), plaice (karei) and a 
kind of brill (hirame), in large quantities 
and of great size. The women are sturdy 
and capable of the hardest toil. They 
usually perform the labour of porters, 
and even drag carts. Muslin made of 
hemp, and called Echigo chijimi, is wo- 
ven in the villages, and generally dyed 
indigo colour with a faint pattern in 



white. The Japanese esteem it highly 
as material for summer clothing. 

Kujira-nami (Inn, Sokai Hotel) 
is a watering-place. 

Kashiwa-zaki (Inns, Iwato-ya, 
Tenkyo) is a large town, partici- 
pating in the impetus given by the 
development of the oil-fields at 
Nagamine and Kamada in this 
neighbourhood. The line now turns 
eastwards to tap the commercial 
cities in the valley of the Shinano- 
gawa, whose broad stream is crossed 
soon after passing the small station 
of Raikoji. (A private railway runs 
from Kashiwa-zaki to Niigata closer 
to the shore and touching Izumo- 
zaki.) Exceptional prosperity ac- 
crues to the province of Echigo 
from the rice yield of the wide plain 
which is now entered, and the eye 
is pleased by views of distant 
mountain ranges. 

Wagaoka (Inns, Masu-ya; No- 
moto; Europ. Bestt., Seiy5-ken) is 
another prosperous place with 
streets laid out at right angles. 
The river is a source of danger, as 
it frequently overflows its banks 
during autumnal rains. Extensive 
petroleum refineries occupy one of 
the suburbs. The wells are at 
Urase, Hire, and Katsubo, which 
places lie close together in the 
range of low hills called Higashi- 
yama, referred to on p. 247. In 
the same direction, but 3 ri further 
E., stands the small town of 
Tochio, which produces the best 
tsumugi in the province. Uesugi 
Kenshin (see p. 85) was born here, 
and various relics of him are pre- 
served at the temple of Joanji. 

Sanjo (Inn, Echizen-ya). A stay 
at this place may be availed of for 
two expeditions. The first is S.E. 
up a tributary stream, the Igarashi- 
gawa, to a spot some 6 ri distant, 
where the torrent flows between 
cliffs 70 ft. high. There are several 
tea-houses at this cool summer 
resort, which is called Yagi. Four ri 
further on, at Yoshi-ga-hira (1,350 
ft. above sea-level), is a lake with 
a hot spring in the middle. At 



Niigata. Island of Sado. 



249 



Nyohbji, about 1J ri from Sanj5 in 
this direction, natural gas issues 
from the ground, and is utilised by 
the peasants for heating and light- 
ing. The same has been found to 
occur when digging for water in 
other parts of this district, for 
instance, in the city of Niigata. — 
The other long expedition from 
Sanjo is to Iyahiko, a mountain 
2,100 ft. high, on the coast. One 
goes by jinrikisha, 4 ri 24 cho to 
the vill. of the same name at its 
base, where stood a fine Eyobu 
Shinto temple (burnt down in 1912), 
the goal of pilgrims from the whole 
province. A festival called Torb- 
oshi is here celebrated at midnight 
on the 14th day, 6th moon, old style. 
Some twenty large stands of wood 
and paper, adorned with candles 
and artificial flowers, are carried 
about by the young men and 
bumped against each other. The 
climb up the mountain begins ab- 
ruptly and takes 1J hr. The little 
shrine (Go-honsha) at the top com- 
mands a wide panorama, rising as 
Iyahiko does like a solitary island 
between the sea on the one hand 
and a sea of rice-fields on the other. 
In a gully on the side towards Sado 
is a small silver mine. 

The country continues flat for the 
rest of the way. 

Niitsu {Inn, Mori-sei) is noted 
for its kerosene wells. 

Nuttari, the terminus of the 
railway, is a suburb of Niigata, ly- 
ing on the opposite or E. side of 
the river. 

Niigata (Inns, *Shinoda, Yoshi- 
kwan), capital of the prefecture of 
the same name, is situated on a 
narrow, sandy strip of land between 
the Shinano-gawa and the sea. 

Niigata was opened to foreign trade in 
18GU ; but almost the only foreigners 
now residing there are missionaries. 
Owing to the bar at the mouth of the 
river, vessels of any size cannot enter 
the port, but are compelled to anchor in 
the roadstead outside. When the wind 
renders it dangerous to anchor off Niigata 
ships may take refuge at EMsu-minato, 



in the island of Sado. Not many centu- 
ries ago, the site of Niigata was 8 or 10 
miles out at sea. A map 800 years old, 
shows Sanjo as a sea-port town, and 
there exists evidence that the whole of 
the rich alluvial plain here extending 
between the mountains and the sea — 100 
square miles or more— has become dry 
land within historical times, partly by 
the silting up of rivers, partly by up- 
heaval of the land. 

The town, which covers an area 
of rather more than 1 sq. mile, 
consists of five parallel streets 
intersected by other streets and 
canals. A line of low sand-hills 
shuts out all view of the sea. The 
climate of Niigata is very trying, — 
hot in summer and terribly cold in 
winter, snow falling to a depth of 2 
or 3 ft., and lying for a considerable 
time. The houses are built with 
their gable-ends towards the street, 
and the roofs are prolonged beyond 
the walls in order to prevent 
the snow from blocking up the 
windows. A large quantity of 
coarse lacquer-ware is manufac- 
tured at Niigata ; and articles of 
a peculiar pattern called mokusa- 
nuri, or "sea- weed lacquer," are 
brought for sale from the district of 
Aizu. In the suburbs of the city, 
Echigo chijlmi is manufactured from 
hemp. The public garden sur- 
rounding the Shint5 temple of 
Haku-san, affords a fine prospect. 

Steamers run north from Niigata, 
to Sakata, Tsuchizaki (AMta), 
Noshiro, and Hakodate. An alter- 
native way of reaching the North or 
returning to Tokyo is to take rail 
and road to Wakamatsu as describ- 
ed in Koute 71, thence to Koriyama 
where join the main line. 

Island of Sado. 

The Island of Sado, which lies 
32 miles W. of Niigata, can be 
reached by small steamer from 
the latter place in about 5 hrs., and 
in about the same time from Nao- 
etsu. Steamers run daily from April 
to October ; for the rest of the year 
the sailings are irregular, on account 



250 Route 26. — Mountains of Shinshu and Eohigo. 



of the frequent storms that prevail 
on this bleak coast. The island is 
hilly and picturesque, consisting of 
two grouj)s of mountains, separated 
by a cultivated plain. 

The principal formation is limestone. 
Sado has a population of 119,000, and is 
principally noted for its gold and silver 
mines situated close to the town of Aikawa, 
which have been worked from the earliest 
times. During the middle ages, Sado was 
used as a place of exile for criminals. 
Among those who were relegated to its 
inhospitable shores, was the Buddhist 
saint, Mchiren. 

Aikawa is a poor-looking place, 
situated near the mines. 

Ebisu Minato {Inn, Yamagata- 
ya), where passengers from Niigata 
generally land, is a large but 
wretched village, built on a nar- 
row strip of beach between the sea 
and a lagoon. The distance from 
Ebisu Minato to Aikawa is 6 ri 29 
cho (16 J m.),— -a pretty walk. 



KOUTE 26. 



The Mountains on the N.W. 

Boundary of Shinshu 

and Echigo 

1. togakushi-san. 2. izuna-san. 
3. myoko-zan. 

These mountains form a con- 
spicuous feature in the landscape 
from many quarters, owing to their 
well-defined shapes and compara- 
tive isolation. Nagano, on the 
Karuisawa-Naoetsu Kailway (see p. 
243) is the proper starting-point for 
Togakushi and Izuna, while Mydko 
is best ascended from Akakura, 
further N. along the same line. 
Another prominent member of the 
group is Kurohime, but it is rarely 
ascended, because not considered 
sacred. 



1. — ToGAXUSHI-SAN. 



Five ri from Nagano stands the 
temple of Togakushi-san, whither 
the god Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto is 
said to have hurled the rocky door 
of the cavern in which the Sun- 
Goddess had hidden herself (see 
the legend as given on p. 43). The 
road, which is passable for jinriki- 
shas, leaves the town on the 1. side 
of the temple of Zenkoji, and winds 
up a narrow ravine to the hamlet 
of Arayasu, whence, leading over 
low hills, it reaches a rest-house 
called Nyu-mka in 45 min., and 
then issues on to the moor which 
encircles the base of Izuna-san. 
In | hr. longer, the highest point 
of the moor is reached at a fine 
torii, from which, in 15 min. more, 
we come to two tea-houses known 
as Okubo. The path then descends 
for about 1 m. to a point where it 
divides, the r. branch proceeding 
direct to the vill. of Togakushi (Inn, 
Kambara), at the upper end of 
which the Chu-in temple is situated, 
the 1. reaching the Hokb-in after 
12 cho more. The latter temple, 
standing at the top of a long flight 
of steps lined with old cryptomerias, 
is a spacious building decorated 
with carvings of some merit. From 
the Hok5-in to the village is a 
pleasant walk of 12 cho through a 
wood. Except for their beautiful 
surroundings, little remains about 
the temples to detain the visitor. 
The road to the Oku-no-in (30 cho) 
is almost level the whole way, 
except during the last few hundred 
yards. It stands at the head of a 
romantic ravine, and commands a 
fine view including the summits of 
Fuji and Asama-yama. 

Those who intend to climb the 
highest point called Ken-no-mine 
(8,080 ft.), will do best to pass the 
night at Togakushi. Whether one 
ascends via Omote-yama (6,000 ft.), 
and passes thence along the rugged 
ridge to Ura-yama (Ken-no-mine 
proper) in order to make the com- 



Izuna-san. Myoko-zan. 



251 



plete circuit, or takes the latter 
only, a long day should be allowed 
for the expedition. The path up 
Omote-yania leads directly behind 
the priest's house at the Oku-no-in, 
and is so narrow and precipitous 
in parts that chains have been 
affixed to the trees and rocks for 
the benefit of pilgrims. (To ascend 
Ura-yama only, one does not touch 
the Oku-no-in, but takes the path 
which diverges from the main road 
to Kashiwa-bara at about 1 ri from 
Togakushi.) The distance to the 
summit is estimated at 5 ri, most 
of which is exceptionally rough and 
steep. About 1J hr. before reach- 
ing it, on a lesser peak called Jizo- 
dake, stands a hut where pligrims 
pass the night in order to witness 
the sunrise. The view is magnifi- 
cent, especially of the Hida-Etchu 
range to the W. and S. 

2. — IZUNA-SAN. 

This mountain (6,080 ft.) should 
be ascended from the vill. of To- 
gakushi, whence the summit may 
be gained in 2 hrs. easy walking 
up a long spur. Another path, by 
which the descent is usually made, 
strikes up from the moor on the 
Nagano side, 20 min. beyond the 
Nyu-zaka tea-house mentioned 
above ; but it is exceedingly steep, 
and covered with dense under- 
growth. A hut, in which pilgrims 
sleep, occupies one side of the sum- 
mit. The view is very extensive, 
embracing on the E. the whole 
range which divides the provinces 
of Shinshu and Joshu, the most 
prominent of its peaks being 
Shirane, flat-topped Suna-daira and 
Asama. The cone of Fuji may be 
distinguished about S. S. E., and 
next to it, to the spectator's r., the 
range of Yatsu-ga-take, beginning 
with Mikaburi-yama and ending 
with the round crown of Tateshina. 
Then come the high mountains of 
western Koshu, probably Koma-ga- 
take and Jizo, next the long ridge 
of the Wada-toge, followed by the 



prolonged irregular top of the 
Shinshu Koma-ga-take. The mere 
summit of Ontake can be perceived 
between S.S.W. and S.W., while 
Yari-ga-take bears S.W. The whole 
of the mighty Hida-Shinshu range 
stands up like a wall on the 
W. Nearer on the same side 
rises the precipitous peak of Ken- 
no-Mine, and turning to the N. we 
see the small, round head of Yake- 
yama, then two smaller mountains, 
named Ototsuma and Takatsuma, 
and almost due N., Myoko-zan with 
Kurohime in front. Below on the 
E. extends the broad fertile valley 
of the Shinano-gawa, while further 
N. a glimpse is caught of the sea. 

The descent takes rather less 
than 2 hrs., and emerges on the 
moor at a point where the traveller 
may either return to Arayasu, or 
strike away to the 1. by a path lead- 
ing over the moor to Kashiwabara 
station, — a 3 hrs. walk. 

3. — MYOKO-ZAN. 

Myoko-zan (8,180 ft). This 
mountain is not free from snow 
until July. The ascent can be 
made in 4 hours. There are two 
paths, passing respectively by 
Minami Jigoku-dani and Kita 
Jigoku-dani. Traversing the little 
public garden at the top of the 
village street of Akakura, the last- 
mentioned goes straight on, while 
the former bears to the 1. This 
has more varied scenery, and is 
somewhat shorter. The path leads 
through the long grass for some 
distance, and then climbs steeply 
to a point whence Fuji is seen, — 
50 cho from Akakura. At about 2 
ri, a sulphur workers' hut below 
Minami Jigoku-dani is reached, 
whence for about 10 cho the path 
ascends the steep course of a rivulet 
under the cane-brake; and soon 
after, at a small shrine, the path 
from the Kita Jigoku-dani joins it 
from the r. A little above this is 
a pool called Kokudd-no-ike, whence 
to the top is a steep but nowhere 



252 



Route 27. — From Shinonoi to Shiojiri. 



dangerous climb of 20 cho, partly 
assisted by chains. On the summit 
stands a small wooden shrine dedi- 
cated to Amida. Myoko-zan forms 
part of an extinct volcano. The 
mountains immediately surround- 
ing it are the long semi-circular 
ridge called Myoko-zan-no-Ura- 
yama on the S.E., and Kanayama on 
the N. The view to the S.E. in- 
cludes Asama and Fuji. Directly S. 
rises Kurohime with its two peaks, 
between which is seen the top of 
Izuna-san. Ken-no-mine bears 
about S.S.W., while the round- 
topped mountain bearing W.N.W. 
is Yake-yama, an extinct volcano. 
To the N.E. the view extends over 
the plain of Echigo to the Sea of 
Japan and the Island of Sado. — 
In descending, the path to the 1. at 
the hut below the Bokudo-no-ike 
and via the Kita-Jigoku-dani solf a- 
tara may be taken. It is in 
parts, however, very narrow, and 
overhung with tall grass and weeds. 
The mountain is much frequented 
by pilgrims, especially on the 23rd 
night of the 6th moon, old style, 
when they go up in great numbers 
by torchlight, but do not pass 
through Akakura. 



KOUTE 27. 



From Shinonoi to Shiojiri. 



Distance 




from 


Names of Stations. 


Shinonoi 






SHINONOI 


2£ m. 


Inari-yama 


7£ 


Obasute 


13 


Omi 


17f 


Nishijo 


24 


Akashina 


28 


Tazawa 


33 


MATSUMOTO 


37 


Murai 


41 1 


SHIOJIRI Jet. 



Shinonoi is a station on the 
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway (see p. 
243), The branch line starting 
thence affords an easy means of 
reaching the central part of the 
Nakasendo. From Shiojiri, Kofu 
and Tokyo on the one hand and the 
head- waters of the Tenryu-gawa on 
the other are also within easy reach. 

The whole line is picturesque. 
On leaving Inari-yama, the train 
winds slowly up the hills on the 1. 
bank of the Chikuma-gawa com- 
manding a succession of magnifi- 
cent views of the valley below 
studded with villages, and of the 
mountains beyond. Note the pretty 
effect of the terraced slopes and the 
roofs of the houses rising from the 
groves in which they lie. The 
station of Obasute (Inn, Wada-ya) 
stands half-way up a slope called 
Obasute-yama, a queer name sig- 
nifying " the Hill where the Aunt 
was abandoned." 

It is explained by a legend which tells 
us that the abandoned one was Oyama- 
bime, aunt to Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-Hime, 
the lovely goddess of Fuji, who married 
Ninigi-no-Mikoto, the first ancestor of 
the Imperial family of Japan. This 
Oyama-bime was so ugly, ill-tempered, 
envious, and malicious that none of the 
gods would take her in marriage. Her 
nephew and niece, in despair that her 
evil disposition should thus stand in the 
way of her happiness, entreated her to 
reform, but in vain. At last the younger 
goddess suggested that a tour through the 
beautiful scenery of Shinano, where she 
might contemplate the moon from some 
lofty mountain-top, would be likely to 
have a softnening effect. So they set out 
together, and after surmounting in- 
numerable peaks, at length reached this 
place. Saku-ya-Hime mounted a stone, 
and pointing with her finger, said to her 
aunt, " Yonder is a rock. Climb up it 
and look calmly round, and your heart 
will be purified." The aunt, tired with 
her long journey, melted under the 
gentle influences of the harvest moon. 
Turning to her niece, she said, "I will 
dwell forever on this hill-top, and join 
with the God of Suwa in watching over 
the land." And with these words, she 
vanished in the moonbeams. 

After Obasute, the lofty peak of 
Kaburiki-yama (see p. 244) looms 
ahead until we enter the tunnel, 



Akashina. Matsumoto. 



253 



8,714 ft. in length, pierced through 
it. On the far side the scene 
changes. The small town of Omi 
lies in a cultivated valley enclosed 
by bare red sandstone hills and high 
well-wooded mountains. Beyond 
ttshijo (Inn, Fuji-ya), we emerge 
from another tunnel about 1 m. long 
into a ravine, high up whose sides 
peasants' cottages are seen perched. 
Hence we descend to the Matsu- 
moto plain, fronting the giants of 
the Hida range, — r. Yari-ga-take, to 
be recognised by its conical top, 
Hodaka-yama and others, and away 
to the 1. the huge broad-backed 
Norikura, The line now runs along 
the r. bank of the wide and stony 
bed of the Saiga wa to 

Akashina (Inn, Akashina-kwan). 
From here a road practicable for 
basha leads to Omachi (see Ete. 29 
Sect 6). 

[About 8 miles W. of Akashina 
a road, practicable for jinrikisha 
for more than half-way, leads 
across the plain to the opening 
of one of the grandest of 
Japanese Alpine valleys. At 
the hamlet of Miyashiro (small 
inn) stands the picturesque 
shrine of Hodaka-jinja, from 
which a walk of nearly 10 miles 
takes one to the finely situated 
Kakabusa Onsen (5,000 ft.). 
The road is well made and 
passes along the densely wood- 
ed mountain side sometimes at 
a height of 200 to 400 ft. almost 
vertically above the torrent bed. 
— Good accommodation at the 
Onsen, and also guides for the 
ascent of the following granite 



Ariake-san (7,500 ft.), the 
"Fuji of Shinshu"; ascent 
about 3 hrs., and descent 2 hrs„ 
on the E. side of the valley. 

Tsubakura^dake (9,300 ft,), 
on the W„ ascent, rather steep 
at first, about 4 J hrs., descent 
3 J hrs., commanding a magnif- 
icent prospect of the northern 
part of the Hida-Shinshu ranges. I 



0-tenjo (9,500 ft.), S.W., a 
more arduous climb, involves 
sleeping out at least one night, 
near the top ; but the view, 
owing to the central position of 
this peak, is most striking and 
extensive.] 

Matsumoto (Inns, Maru-mo ; 
Maru-naka) is the centre of trade 
between the southern part of this 
province (Shinshu) and the province 
of Echigo. It stands in the midst 
of a wide, fertile plain, bordered on 
all sides by magnificent mountain 
ranges. A picturesque portion of 
the castle of the former Daimyo 
still remains. 

Thirty chb to the N.E. of Matsu- 
moto lies the little vill. of Asama, 
noted for its hot springs. Of the 
numerous inns, the best are the 
*Me-no-yu, with Europ. food, and 
Nishi Ishikawa. 

[The river running through Ma- 
tsumoto is the Saigawa, an 
affluent of the Chikuma. Boats 
laden with merchandise go 
down it as far as Shimmachi, a 
town 3 n 15 chb (8 J miles) 
distant from Shinonoi by road. 
If a private boat can be se- 
cured, the day's trip is a pleas- 
ant one. The Sanseiji gorge, 
which is passed about half-way, 
presents fine rocky landscapes. 
There are numbers of floating 
rice-mills of a primitive type, 
consisting of a house-boat 
moored in the current, and 
having a paddle-wheel on each 
side driven by the passing 
water.] 

Leaving Matsumoto, the line 
keeps along the plain, passing at 
first through rice-fields and mulber- 
ry plantations and later through 
pine-woods. The big mountain 
mass to the 1. of Murai is called 
Hachibuse. 

Shiojiri (see next Route). 



254 



Route 28. — Central Railway. 



ROUTE 28. 



The Centbal Bailway. 



Feom Nagoya to Shiojiei. The 

POTTEEIES OF SETO. KoKEI- 

zan. The Valley of the 

KlSOGAWA. 



O r 5 


Names 






of 


Ke marks 


&£* e« 






ft & 


Stations 






NAGOYA 




4Am. 

9* 


Chikusa 




Kachigawa 


15 


Kozoji 




22| 


Taj i mi 




27 


Tokitsu 




311 


Mizunami 




36 


Kamado 




42£ 


6i 




50 


NAKATSU-GAWA 




56 


Sakashita 




61£ 


Midono 




671 


Nojiri 




71 


Suhara 




781 


Agematsu 




83 


KISOFUKUSHIMA 




88 


Miyanokoshi 




91£ 


Yabuhara 




95J 


Narai 




100 


Niekawa 


/For Matsu- 


1061 


Seba 


moto and 


109 


SHIOJIM JCT.... 


•j Shinonoi 
1 (see previ- 
V ous Route). 



(For the sections of this line be- 
tween Shiojiri and Tokyo, see Route 
30, Sections 1 and 5.) 

This line, after leaving the plain, 
enters the beautiful valley of the 
Kisogawa, following the ancient 
road known as Kiso-kaido or Naka- 
sendo, and affords some of the finest 
scenery in the country. 

The Nakasendo, or "Central Mountain 
Road," is so named in contradistinction 
to the Tokaido or " Eastern Sea Road," 
and the comparatively unimportant Hoku- 
roku-do, or " Northern Land Road " in Ka- 
ga and Etchu, between which it occupies 
a middle posi tion . It runs from Kyoto to 
Tokyo, passing through the provinces of 
Yamashiro, Omi, Mino, Shinshu, Kotsuke, 



and Musashi. The road seems to have 
been originally constructed early in the 
8th century. Legendary history states, 
however, that in the reign of the Emperor 
Keiko (A.L\ 71-130), his son, Prince 
Yamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pass 
during his conquest of Eastern Japan, 
suggesting the likelihood of a track 
having existed there from the earliest 
times. 

Owing to the mountainous nature of the 
country, the Nakasendo portion of the 
Central Railway proved the most difficult 
of the whole Japanese system. The con- 
struction begun in 1896, was completed 
only in 1911, during which period 95 
tunnels were cut and 351 bridges built. 

Leaving Nagoya, the train runs 
across a rice plain towards bare, 
rounded hills, which are entered 
after passing Kozoji. To the r. of 
this station, 1J ri by a road hilly 
yet practicable for jinrikishas, lie 
the Potteries of Seto, 

[Persons staying at Nagoya may 
more conveniently go to Seto 
and back by jinrikisha to 
Ozone (J hr.), whence electric 
tram to Seto, 1 hr. more.] 

distributed over the four adjacent 
hamlets of Kita Shingai, Minami 
Shingai, Go, and Hora. The best 
establishment is that founded by 
Kato Gosuke in Minami Shingai, 
which is celebrated for its translu- 
cent white ware. There is also a 
pottery school where all the process- 
es may be inspected. 

The province of Owari, and the adjacent 
province of Mino have, for many ages, 
been flourishing centres of the porcelain 
industry, the most famous seat of which 
is here at Seto, where Kato Shirozaemon, 
the first great master of Japanese ceramic 
art, set up a kiln about the year 1230 
on his return from six years of diligent 
study in China. Thenceforth Seto be- 
came the headquarters of the manu- 
facture of dainty little jars, ewers, and 
other utensils for the tea ceremonies 
(cha-no-yu), so that the word &tf>±o<sjno, 
literally " Seto things," has & "Jj* J be 
employed in Japanese as a gei anfo We 
for all pottery and poreelaiiiMcr' £^h as 
the word china is used in Englifc?n\ Many 
of the pieces now turned out — especially 
the monster blue-and-white vases— are 
intended only for the foreign market. 

Immediately beyond Kozoji, the 
dull scene suddenly changes to one 






Valley of the Kisogawa. 



255 



of prettiness as the train wends up 
the bank of the Tamano-gaica, with 
its rocky bed and picturesque 
cliffs. The only drawback is that 
fourteen tunnels perpetually inter- 
cept the view. 

Tajimi ( Inn, Matsu-ya) is a busy 
place, producing even more pottery 
than Seto; for the whole country- 
side, to a distance of 6 ri, is occupied 
in little else. But objects of native 
household use are alone made, 
except at Nishimura's large estab- 
lishment, which manufactures for 
export to America. The ancient 
Buddhist temple of Kokei-zan, is 
finely situated in the midst of rock 
and river scenery, 12 cho from the 
station, of which 6 cho by jinrikisha 
to the foot of the hill. Particularly 
wide and impressive is the pano- 
rama from the little tea-house (only 
8 cho from station), in which Ena- 
san forms the most conspicuous 
feature. 

Nakatsu-gawa (Inn, *Hashi- 
riki), generally called Nakatsu for 
short, is a factory town lying at the 
base of Ena-san, and the best 
starting-point for the ascent of that 
mountain. 

The Kisogawa, here running 
through the bare hills characteristic 
of the province of Mino, is first 
crossed after leaving Nakatsu-gawa. 

The Kisogawa ranks as one of the San 
dai-ka, or Three Great Rivers of Japan, 
the other two being the Tonegawa and 
the Shinano-gawa : but the Kisogawa is 
incomparably the most beautiful. Rising 
near the Torii-toge in the province of 
Shinshu, it runs for a length of 135 miles, 
and after forming an intricate delta 
which is subject to destructive floods, falls 
into the Bay of Owari. 

The real beauty of the river 
begins at a point just below the 
bridge spanning it between Saka- 
shita and Midono, where we cross to 
the 1. bank and where the hills are 
still clothed with splendid timber 
down to the water's edge. Thence 
onwards the line keeps almost 
uninterruptedly to the same side of 
the river, at times close beside it, 



at others high above, built on huge 
granite walls, with numerous 
culverts and tunnels. 

[A little over 1 ri from Midono, at 
the vill, of Tsumago, a road 
practicable for jinriMshas, leads 
over the Odaira-tbge to Iida for 
the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa, 
described in Route 33; the 
distance between Tsumago and 
Hda is about 10 ri] 

Between Midono and Nojiri is the 
narrowest part of the valley. The 
hills get more pointed and more 
feathery-looking with their varied 
vegetation, except in the too numer- 
ous places where deforestation has 
left its ruthless trace. 

At some times and in some places, there 
really seems to be more wood in the 
river than water, 80,000 trees being sent 
annually down stream, not in rafts but 
singly, each stamped with its owner's 
mark. The trees most esteemed are 
hinoki and sawara. Several tracts apper- 
tain to the Imperial domain, while others 
now belong to the peasants. In former 
days, when all the woods of Kiso were 
owned by the Daimyo of Owari, stringent 
forestry laws were enforced ; and where- 
as ordinary trees might be hewn down at 
will, the two species above-mentioned 
and also keyaki, nezu, and asuhi, might 
not have so much as a twig broken off, 
and armed foresters were placed to shoot 
all poachers dead. Any peasant found in 
possession of a utensil made of one of the 
forbidden kinds of wood was arrested 
In case of his having purchased any such 
from a neighbouring province, it was in- 
cumbent on him to inform the authori- 
ties of his own locality, who verified the 
transaction and branded the article in 
question with the official stamp. This 
paternal despotism had at least the effect 
of bequeathing splendid forests to poster- 
ity. Immense havoc was done duriDg 
the turmoil which ushered in the new 
regime, and only since about 1890 has 
serious attention again been turned to 
forest preservation. The Imperial do- 
main is believed to be now economically 
managed, but the peasants continue to 
waste their newly acquired source of 
wealth. The timber is felled in late 
spring and summer, and floated down 
stream in autumn and winter. A large 
number of men find employment as 
wood-cutters, others are stationed along 
the stream with bill-hooks to push oil 
stranded logs. At a place called Nishikori 
in Mino, hawsers are stretched across the 



256 



Boute 28. — Central Bailway. 



stream to prevent the logs from floating 
further. There they are sorted and 
identified by government officials, and 
afterwards bound by their respective 
owners into rafts, most of which are 
navigated down to Kuwana in the province 
of Ise. 

Suhara [Inn, Sakura-ya) lies in 
a more open part of the valley, 
where much silk is produced. 
Koma-ga-take, of which only peeps 
have been obtained hitherto, is now 
seen excellently. In shape it 
exactly resembles a saddle, two 
sharp little knobs in the middle 
making its resemblance to that 
instrument of torture, a Japanese 
saddle, only the more realistic. In 
the river bed immediately below 
the line lies a rocky platform called 
the Nemme no Toko, or "Bed of 
Awakening." 

This curious name is derived from a 
local tradition which avers that Ura- 
shima, the Japanese Bip Van Winkle (see 
p. 86), awoke on this spot from his long 
dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, ex- 
plain the name to mean that the view 
" wakes up," that is, startles those who 
come upon it. 

Agematsu (Inns Sakai-ya, Ta- 
masa). Either this town or the 
next station, Kiso Fukushima would 
be an excellent place for the lover 
of mountain scenery to stay at for 
a few days. Both Ontake and 
Koma-ga-take can be conveniently 
ascended from these points; and 
from the top of Koma-ga-take one 
may descend to the Ina Kaidd for 
the rapids of the Tenryii-gawa. 
(The ascent and then the descent on 
the other side could be done under 
favourable circumstances in one 
extremely long day ; but it is better 
to stop at the hut recommended in 
Boute 29, No. 11, or at another hut 
lower down.) 

A few minutes beyond Agematsu, 
on emerging from a tunnel, there is 
seen far below, another spot famous 
in old walking days called Kiso-no- 
Kakehashi, where the narrow foot- 
path clung with difficulty to the 
precipitous rock. Collectors of old 



colour prints will recognise the 
scene. Fine glimpses are caught 
of the peaks of Ontake and the 
Shinshu Koma-ga-take. 

Kiso Fukushima (Inn, Fuku- 
shima-kwan) picturesquely lines 
both banks of the river, the 1. bank 
rising high above the r. whose 
terraced habitations have a back- 
ground of steep and darkly wooded 
hills. 

Yabuhara (Inn, Kome-ya), 
is entirely devoted to the manu- 
facture of combs. It stands at the 
foot of the Torii-toge, at a height of 
3,150 ft. above sea-level. 

The name of this pass is derived from 
the torii on the top dedicated to Ontake, 
the summit of which sacred mountain is 
visible hence. Strange as it may seem, 
two battles were fought on this spot in 
the 16th century, between some of the 
rival chieftains who, during that period 
of anarchy, disputed Eastern Japan 
amongst them. 

[From Yabuhara a path follows 
the r. bank of the Kisogawa 
nearly up to its source, passing 
over the Sakai-toge into the 
province of Hida, where it 
joins the path from Shima- 
shima at Nagaudo (see page 
260). It is an interesting day's 
walk with fine views.] 

Here we quit the valley of the 
Kisogawa to plunge into a tunnel 
under the Torii-toge whence we 
follow a narrow valley, whose 
stream, running between high hills, 
ultimately joins the large Chikuma- 
gawa that flows into the Sea of 
Japan. Beyond Seba, where it 
opens out, the peaks of Norikura 
and Yari-ga-take rise conspicuously 
to the 1. 

Shiojiri (Inn, Masu-ya) is the 
junction for Kofu and Tokyo to the 
S.E., and Matsumoto and Nagano 
to the N. (see previous Boute). 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



257 



KOUTE 29. 



The Mountains of Hida and 
Etchu. 

1. inteoductoey eemaeks. 2. gifu 
to takayama in hida. 3. taka- 
yama to to yam a by the valley 
of the takahaea-gawa. 4. ma- 
tsumoto to takayama by the 
abd and hieayu passes. noeiku- 
ea and kasa-dake. yakedake- 
toge. 5. yaei-ga-take and ho- 
dakayama. 6. omachi to toyama 
ovee the haeinoki pass. 7. itoi- 
gawa to 5machi and matsumoto. 
5eenge-yama and jonen-dake. 
8. tateyama. 9. toyama oe 
kanazawa to takayama by the 
valley of the shteakawa. 
10. haku-san. 11. ontake and 
the koma-ga-take of shinshu. 

12. ENA-SAN. 



1. — Inteoductoey Bemaeks. 

The provinces of Hida and Etchu 
may be conveniently taken to- 
gether, because hemmed in between 
the same high mountain ranges 
which have prevented them from 
being much visited even by the 
natives of the surrounding prov- 
inces. Few parts of Japan have 
been so little affected by European 
influence.* 

The range bounding these prov- 
inces on the E. is the most con- 
siderable in the empire, the only 
one that can compare with it being 
that between the Fujikawa and 
Tenryu-gawa (Route 32). Many of 
the peaks bear snow, especially in 
the more sheltered gullies and 
ravines, all the year round. Ex- 
tending almost due N. and S. for a 



*A Japanese Alpine Club (Nihon-San- 
gaku Kai) was formed in 1905, and now 
numbers about 700 members. It pub- 
lishes an excellent magazine, well illus- 
trated. 



length of 60 or 70 miles, this range 
forms a well-nigh impenetrable 
barrier to communication from the 
S. and E. It consists chiefly of 
granite, overlaid in places with 
igneous rocks; but Norikura and 
Tateyama are of volcanic origin. 
The highest and most conspicuous 
of the numerous peaks, according 
to the latest General Staff Survey, 
are as follows : 

FT 

Orenge-yama (Shiro-uma). 9,622 

Tateyama 9,831 

Jonen-dake 9,600 

Kasa-dake 9,466 

Yari-ga-take .10,431 

Hodaka-yama 10,250 

Norikura 9,925 

Ontake 10,046 

Koma-ga-take (Shinshu) . . . 9,726 

Haku-san 8,863 

Ena-san 7,347 

The lower flanks of the chain are 
clothed with forests, in which the 
commonest trees are the birch, 
beech, and the oak, conifers being 
also plentiful. Among the wild 
animals of this region may be 
mentioned bear, deer, a kind of 
chamois, and two kinds of boar. 
The streams abound with trout ; 
ptarmegan are also often seen. 
The scanty population consists of 
hardy, simple folk, who support 
themselves by hunting, wood-cut- 
ting, and charcoal burning. In 
some parts the women wear a kind 
of baggy trowsers resembling 
bloomers, tied at the ankles. The 
staple food is buckwheat and millet, 
while barley, hemp, beans, and 
mulberry-leaves form the other 
chief productions of the valleys. 

It will thus be seen that the 
mountaineer has but hard fare to 
expect, and will be wise to provide 
himself with as much portable food 
etc., as can be packed into a small 
compass. Much luggage cannot 
be carried, owing to the general 
scarcity of men. Needless to 
add that the accommodation is 



258 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



often of the roughest. Only at 
Toyama the capital of Etchu, at 
Takayama the capital of Hida, at 
Matsumoto, and at a few other of 
the larger towns, is the ordinary 
standard of Japanese provincial 
comfort attained. 

For practical convenience' sake, 
four mountains have been included 
in this route that do not topograph- 
ically belong to it — Haku-san, On- 
take, the Koma-ga-take of Shin- 
shu, and Ena-san, because, though 
not actually forming part of the 
main range, they stand not far 
from it, and are likely to interest 
the same class of travellers. 

The district treated of in this 
route may be best approached from 
one of three sides, — from Shinonoi, 
on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway; 
from Nagoya and Gifu, on the 
Tokaido Railway ; or from the Sea 
of Japan, on which last side To- 
yama is the natural starting-point. 
The first-mentioned approach is to 
be preferred by travellers from 
Yokohama, the others by those 
coming from K5be. Matsumoto 
and Kiso Fukushima make excellent 
centres for excursions among these 
mountains. 

A road has been constructed from 
Shima-shima over the summit of 
the Tokugo-toge, a pass which 
crosses the range running parallel 
to the great ridge of which Yari-ga- 
take forms the highest point; 
thence down to the Azusa-gawa, 
and across to the Hirayu side of the 
chain (see p. 268). 

2.— Fkom Giftj on the Toeaid5 
Railway to Takayama in Hida. 

Itinerary, 

GIFU to:— Hi Cho M. 

Akutami 2 34 1\ 

SEKI 2 4 b\ 

Mabuki 5 8 12f 

Asahari 2 7 5J 

Kiribora 2 18 6 

Kanayama 1 25 4J 

Shimohara 15 1 



Hoido 3 — 7J 

Gero 3 2 7} 

Hagiwara 2 19 6| 

Osaka 3 1 7J 

Kukuno 3 32 9| 

TAKAYAMA 3 4 7} 

Total 35 25 87 



This road, called the Hida Kaido, 
is practicable for jinrikishas 
throughout. Two passes— the Fu- 
kuro-zaka, and the Miya-toge—h&ve 
to be climbed; elsewhere the road 
has an easy gradient. The best 
accommodation is at Seki (Inn, 
*Fukagawa-ya) and Kanayama (Inn, 
Hayakawa-ya) . Good accommodation 
may also be found at Hoido (Inn, 
Genmaru-ya), Gero (Inn, *Yoshi- 
mura-ya), and at Osaka (Inn, Shin- 

ya). 

The tame character of the land- 
scape during the early part of the 
journey,— low-lying sandy hills clad 
with insignificant trees,— character- 
istic of the province of Mino, is 
suddenly exchanged, as if by 
magic, for scenes of rare beauty on 
crossing over into the province of 
Hida near Kanayama, and these 
continue all the rest of the way. 
From Shimohara to Kukuno, the 
traveller wends for forty miles 
along the beautifully wooded valley 
of the Hida-gawa (called Masuda- 
gawa and Adanogo-gawa higher 
up), through a succession of rocky 
ravines. In flood-time, particularly, 
the scene is grand beyond descrip- 
tion. Curiously enough, one of the 
finest parts of the route — a little 
beyond the hamlet of Hoido — has 
received the ill-sounding name of 
Jigoku (Hell), apparently by reason 
of the awe which it inspired in 
rustic beholders when the old 
pathway ran along the face of 
the precipitous rocks that overhang 
the foaming current. Specially 
grand is the gorge from this point 
on to Gero, at which place the valley 
widens, the road becomes somewhat 
undulating, and cultivation is pos- 
sible. Magnificent, too, is the view 



From Takayama to Toyama. 



259 



at the confluence of the Osaka-gawa 
with the main river, which here 
again becomes confined for several 
miles within a densely wooded 
ravine, whose sides rise sheer from 
the water's edge. The hill between 
Kukuno and Takayama receives 
its name of Miya-tbge from a very 
ancient Shinto temple, the chief 
one (Ichi-no-miya) of the province. 
It stands in a beautiful grove at 
the foot on the N. side. A short 
run hence leads down to the small 
plain surrounding 

Takayama \hw, *Nagaseryd- 
kwan). This, the capital of Hida, 
is divided into three main parts, 
called Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-ma- 
chi, and San-no-machi. Shut in, 
as it is, by lofty mountain ranges, 
Takayama remains difficult of 
access. Note the elaborate Shinto 
shrines in miniature erected in 
front of many of the chief build- 
ings, and dedicated to Akiha-san 
for protection against fire (see p. 
234). A good panorama of the town 
and neighbouring mountains can be 
obtained from Shiroyama, on which 
the Daimyo's castle formerly stood. 
It is only 10 min. climb. 

3.— Fbom Taeayama by the 

Valley of the Taeahaka- 

gawa to Toyama. 

Itinerary, 

TAKAYAMA to:— Pa Ghb M. 

Furukawa 3 28 9J- 

Funatsu 5 26 14 

Higashi Mozumi ... 4 6 10 J 

Nakayama 1 28 4} 

Katakake 1 18 3J 

Sasazu_ 2 21 6J- 

KamiOkubo 30 2 

TOYAMA 3 18 8J 

Total 23 31 58J- 

This extremely picturesque route 
may be called practicable for jin- 
rikishas, but the road beyond 
Funatsu is in very bad condition 



owing to the traffic in connection 
with the silver mine near that 
place. The best accommodation 
will be found at Furukawa, Funatsu 
(Inn by Nagai Hyotaro) and. Higashi 
Mozumi. (There is an alterna- 
tive route from Furukawa to 
Katakake down the Miyagaica. It 
is built up with cyclopean masonry, 
and leads through beautifully 
wooded valleys, but misses the 
Kamibara-toge. ) 

The road is slightly downhill as 
far as Suisaki just beyond Furu- 
kawa, where the Kamibara-toge *, 
3,850 ft. above the sea and 1,600 ft, 
above Funatsu, begins. There is a 
beautiful view, looking back, across 
the Yokamachi valley and the low 
pine-clad hills separating this 
valley from that of the Miyagawa 
and the plain which surrounds 
Takayama. On the far side of the 
pass the scenery changes, — the 
valley grows deeper and narrower 
and the streams swifter, until at 
Funatsu and along the Takahara- 
gawa it becomes superbly grand, — 
a huge gorge with mountains rising 
on either side and great rocks 
covered with pines and other trees, 
while far below the winding road is 
the rushing, roaring torrent. Notice 
the curious lime-kilns built of 
stones at various points near the 
road on both sides of the pass. The 
lime is spread out on the rice fields. 

[Travellers bound for the Hida- 
Shinshu mountains may con- 
veniently diverge at Funatsu 
to the hamlet of Ilirayu (p. 
262), about 9 n, by following a 
jinrikisha road along the Taka- 
hara-gawa nearly to its source ; 
or else they may diverge 1. 2ri 
before Hirayu, up a path to 
Gamada (p, 262), 1 n, making 8 
ri altogether from Funatsu, the 
luggage having to be shoulder- 
ed by the jinrikisha coolies.] 

The road improves near Katakake 
a short way beyond the boundary 
of the provinces of Hida and Etchu, 



260 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



— The scenery retains its grandeur 
as far as the pass leading over to 
the valley in which lies the long 
village of Kami-Okubo, bordered 
with trees and hedges. Hence the 
way is fairly good into 
Toyama (see Route 46). 

4. — Fkom Matsomoto to Takayama 
by the Abo and Hibayu Passes. 

[Ascent of Noeikuba and Kasa- 
dake. nomugi-toge,] 

Itinerary, 

MATSUMOTOto:— Bi Cho M. 

Shima-shima , ... 5 14 13 \ 

Inekoki ) g ©... 1 — 2J 

Onogawa V g^g ... 3 — 7J 

Hirayu J §«.S... 8 — 19 J 

Hatahoko ..... 3 8 7| 

Hiomo 21 1J 

Otani 1 — 2 \ 

TAKAYAMA 3 1 7J 

Total 25 8 61J 

Jinrikishas can be taken from 
Matsumoto to Inekoki. They are 
also practicable between Hatahoko 
and Takayama, but are not to be 
found at the villages on the way. 
The intermediate section must 
be walked, and the advice given 
regarding baggage strictly borne in 
mind. Few walks of thirty miles 
are to be found in the whole of 
Japan comparable for wild and 
varied picturesqueness to that from 
Shima-shima to Hirayu up the 
valley of the Azusa-gawa, and over 
the Hinoki and Abd passes. 

Soon after leaving Matsumoto, 
the road is nearly all level and 
good, Part of the way lies through 
a pleasant grove of red pines, and 
then the Azusa-gawa is crossed 
near Onota by a bridge about 1 m. 
from 

Shima-shima (Inn, Shimizu-ya), 
which is divided in two by the 
river, the further part, called Hashi- 
ba, being strikingly situated on the 
r, bank. This is the best place from 



which to ascend Yari-ga-take (see 
No. 5). 

From Shima-shima, the road at 
first follows the 1. bank of the 
Azusa-gawa, passing through Ine- 
koki, a hamlet known in the 
neighbourhood for its kaze-ana, or 
"wind-caves." These are merely 
small excavations in the hillside, 
used as storehouses. Thenceforward 
the entire walk up the river gorge, 
walled in by densely wooded moun- 
tains, is inexpressibly grand. The 
path clings, or should cling, to the 
sides of the living rock; but fre- 
quently portions of it slip down 
into the gulf below, leaving only a 
precarious foothold. Some of the 
worst clefts and landslips have been 
bridged over by primitive struc- 
tures. The only opening in the 
valley wall occurs about 3 m. before 
Onogawa, where, at Nagaudo, a 
stream flows in 1. from the Nomugi- 
toge. 

Onogawa (fair inn) is a small 
vill. standing on the 1. bank of the 
Maegawa, an affluent of the Azusa- 
gawa, at a height of 3,300 ft. But 
it will be better to push on to Shira- 
hone (Inn, *Saito, hot sulphur baths), 
a little over 1 ri off the road. 
Travellers sleeping here can rejoin 
the main road just before Tochi- 
zaka, in 45 min. 

[Ascent of Norikura. Pil- 
grims coming from the direc- 
tion of Shinshu make the 
ascent_of this sacred mountain 
from Onogawa; those coming 
from the west go up from the 
vill. of Hatahoko. The moun- 
tain may also be ascended 
from Hirayu, as described 
below. 

1. As the climb from Ono- 
gawa to the summit and back 
may prove too much for one 
day, the mountaineer is advised 
to sleep_at a hut (4,800 ft.) 1£ ri 
above Onogawa. On the way 
are passed the remains of old 
furnaces, heaps of slag and ore, 
etc., indicating the site of the 



Ascent of Norikura. 



261 



once extensive smelting works 
of Obi Ginzan, The ore con- 
sists of galena containing 
a small quantity of silver. 
The sleeping-hut stands near 
a small stream abounding 
with trout, There is no 
path from the hut to the 
summit, and only occasional 
indications of a track. Pas- 
sage has to be forced through 
long grass, trees, and bamboo- 
grass, and then up the bed of 
a small torrent, where a sulphur 
spring breaks out, until one 
reaches a steep snow-field. 
The final climb leads over lava 
blocks and scoriae, ending at 
the small shrine of Asahi Gon- 
gen on the northernmost and 
highest peak of the mountain. 

Norikura is an old volcano, 
the present peak being really 
one of the sides of the crater 
from which extensive lava- 
streams formerly poured. The 
view should embrace all the 
great peaks of the Japanese 
Alps, — granite giants, which 
unfortunately are too often 
veiled in rain or mist. 

Instead of returning to Ono- 
gawa, it will be found pleasant- 
er to descend to Shirahone (see 
p. 260), which is 2J ri further 
on towards Hirayu. 

2. The way from Hirayu 
(locally called the ura-michi, or 
"back road") leads past a 
magnificent cascade more than 
200 ft. high, formed by the 
Takahara-gawa near its source, 
and through some mines (kb- 
zari) 2 hrs. from Hirayu, where 
it may be advisable to spend 
the night, so as to make an 
early start. Though the mines 
lie at an altitude of 7,000 ft., 
work is carried on all the year 
round. The ascent begins, if 
one may so say, by a drop of 
50 or 60 feet, followed by a 
scramble horizontally through 
the undergrowth on the side of 
the mountain till the dry bed 



of a torrent is reached. Thence 
it is a rough-and-tumble strug- 
gle up through the forest. 
Emerging from this, the climb 
is over rocks and snow. A lake 
surrounded by rugged peaks, 
and some natural caves, are 
interesting objects passed on 
the way. The climb from the 
mines to a ruined hut called 
Murodb, near the top, will 
occupy about 5 hrs. The re- 
mainder of the_way coincides 
with that from Onogawa. 

3. From Hatahoko. The 
distance to the summit from 
this place is estimated at 7 ri, 
the path leading via Ike-no- 
rnata, 23 chb, and the silver 
mines of Hiragane, 1 J ri]. 

A short ascent leads from Ono- 
gawa to a stream running at the 
foot of the Hinoki-tbge, up which 
latter is an easy_walk of 40 min. 
At 2 hrs. from Onogawa, the swift 
current of the Azusa-gawa is 
crossed. (The path to Shirahone 
branches off: 1. at the top of the 
pass. Here commences a very 
steep climb (practically the be- 
ginning of the Abb-tog e) through a 
thick wood to the last rest-house, 
called Tochi-zaka, whence the 
remainder of the way to the summit 
of that pass is a perpetual succes- 
sion of ups and downs, sometimes 
over a grassy surface, at other times 
up steep and stony slopes, but 
mostly under shade, and at no point 
ottering any extensive prospect. 
Shortly below the foot of the pass 
on the E. side, a track leads round, 
by the base of Yake-dake, in about 
2£ hrs. to Kamikbchi. 4 J hours' 
walk from the Azusa-gawa brings 
us to the top of the Abo-toge (6,4U0 
ft.), which forms the boundary 
between the provinces of Shinshu 
and Hida, and is remarkable for the 
beauty of the virgin forest crown- 
ing it. The way down along the 
Mozuo-gawa affords glorious views 
r. of Hodaka-yama and Kasa-dake, 
and of Haku-san to the S.W., also 



262 



Route 29. — Mountains of Eida and Etchu. 



charming sylvan scenery with moss 
and ferns in abundance. The 
descent takes 1J hr. to the hollow 
between high mountains where 
nestles the hamlet of 

Hirayu {Inn, by Murayama- 
Seijuro). This place, lying 4,500 ft. 
above the sea, boasts a chalybeate 
spring, the temperature being high 
and the baths simple tanks under 
open sheds. Note the fine water- 
fall near Hirayu referred to on the 
previous page. Silver is mined on 
a small scale in the immediate 
vicinity. Hirayu should be made 
the headquarters of those moun- 
taineers who desire to scale Kasa- 
dake and, as already indicated, 
Norikura. 

[Ascent of Kasa-dake. The 
grey cliffs and shining snow- 
slopes of Kasa-dake form a 
striking picture to one looking 
down the narrow valley to the 
N.W. of Hirayu. The ascent 
can best be made from Gamada 
(fair inn), which is pictur- 
esquely situated and possesses 
hot sulphur baths. The climb, 
which is extremely arduous, 
will occupy about 8 or 9 hrs., 
and the descent 7 or 8 hrs. 
"Starting at daylight," says 
the Rev. Walter Weston, "we 
descend into the Migi-mata 
(Right Fork), and ascend the 
rocky torrent bed until a 
forest is reached, through 
whose dense slippery under- 
growth a way must be forced. 
Emerging at length, we cross 
the torrent of the Hidari-mata 
(Left Fork) by means of any 
bridge that may be improvised. 
This is followed by a stiff 
climb over broken rocks and 
long slopes of snow, whose 
lower limit is at an altitude of 
about 5,000 ft., in the wild 
ravine called Anage-no-tani. 
Here to the 1. a pretty cascade 
shoots over a cliff, to disappear 
under the snow. The climb 
now becomes more difficult, 



the rocks being steeper and 
bigger, whilst their smooth 
surface renders some sort of 
icaraji indispensable. Some 
precipitous grassy slopes then 
lead over easier going on snow 
and debris up to the final 
arete, strikingly characterised 
by slabs of broken andesite 
lying in regular layers on the 
crest of the ridge. In shelter- 
ed nooks various Alpine flow- 
ers delight the eye, which 
wanders afar over all the chief 
peaks of Central Japan, and 
even to distant Fuji. From 
the point where the final arete 
is reached, we turn to the 
right, and a scramble of half- 
an-hour leads to a cairn on the 
summit/' 



From Gamada a road leads 
over the range between Hida 
and Shinshu by the Yake- 
dake (or Nagao) toge down 
to the hot springs of Kamikochi 
(good inn) and the Tokugo hut 
at the foot of the pass of 
the same name (see p. 264). 
The way leads up gentle slopes 
at first, but grows gradually 
steeper till reaching the foot of 
the pass proper. This zigzags 
up densely wooded mountain 
sides, and then follows a gully 
to the summit, where sulphur- 
ous vapour issues from numer- 
ous fissures. The altitude of 
the pass is about 7,200 ft., and 
the views towards Kasa-dake, 
and of Hodaka-yama in close 
proximity are magnificent. 
The ascent from Gamada to 
the summit occupies just 
under 3 hrs. ; the descent on 
the further side, though much 
rougher, will take over 1 hr. 
(From the top of the pass the 
active volcano of Yald-dake, 
8,500 ft. may be climbed in 
lj hrs. The sight of the wild 
rugged walls of the broken 
crater is very striking). From 



From Itirayu to takayama. 



263 



the foot of the pass the way 
leads 1. to the Azusa-gawa, 
and along its r. bank to 
Kamikdchi, about 1 m. 
Beyond Kamikdchi the path 
crosses the river and follows 
its 1. bank to the foot of the 
steep Tokugo-toge. The whole 
walk from Kami-kochi to 
Shima-shima (p. 260) over the 
Tokugo pass will occupy* about 
8 hrs. including necessary stop- 
pages. 

The ascent of the Hirayu-toge, 
1 ri, is very steep; the descent 
through a wood of beech, fir, and 
oak, also for 1 ri, much less so. A 
considerable area of the forest on 
the way down has been cleared to 
make room for the cultivation of 
buckwheat. This is undertaken, 
not by the local peasantry, but by 
others from the adjoining province 
of Etchu, who cross over annually 
for the purpose. From the bottom 
of the actual pass, the path con- 
tinues to descend gradually down 
the narrow valley of the Nyugawa 
for many miles, — almost as far as 
Otani, — shut in by lofty wooded 
mountains, and occasionally dotted 
with houses either isolated or 
grouped together in tiny hamlets. 
Hatahoko is the only place that 
offers tolerable accommodation. 
Here, too, the road, hitherto a mere 
pathway, widens so as to admit of 
the transport of merchandise by 
cart. 

After the valley opens out, the 
scenery assumes a more varied 
character, with thriving farmsteads, 
murmuring brooks utilised to turn 
water-wheels, hills of lesser height 
near at hand, and grand mountains 
in the distance. Later on the road 
enters pine- clad hillocks, and passes 
by the vill, of Matsunoki, where a 
rope stretched across the valley 
testifies to the survival of an ancient 
superstition. 

According to the date at which the 
weather causes the rope to snap,' omens 
are drawn for the crops of the ensuing 



twelve months. It is replaced yearly on 
the 7th day of the 7th moon. This rope, 
the sacred shime-nawa of Shinto, employ- 
ed to symbolise divinity, here stands for 
the celestial beings called Tanabata, for 
whose poetic legend see Things Japanese, 
Article " Sun, Moon, and Stars." 

This spot is one of the " Eight 
Views" of the province of Hidai 
For the prefectural town of 

Takayama, see p. 270. 

[An alternative way from Shima- 
shima to Takayama is over 
the Uomugi-toge — From the 
summit (6,000 ft.), Ontake, 
Norikura, and Yari-ga-take are 
visible. The vill. of Nomugi 
(4,600 ft.) lies 1J ri down on the 
other side, and is the best place 
to stop at on the way. 

There are also Inns at 
Kawaura, Kami-ga-hora, and 
Ichi-no-shuku. From Tsuna- 
ga-taira, a road leads to the hot 
springs of Shirahone (p. 260) ; 
another from Yoriaido to the 
Central Kailway at Yabuhara 
and from Adanago to Fukushi- 
ma on the same line. The 
ascent of Ontake can be made 
from Ichi-no-shuku via the 
Nigori-gawa Onsen* — time* 
5 hrs. up to the ridge and 3 hrs. 
more to the top. The itinerary 
is as follows, — distances appro- 
ximate. 

SHB1A-SHIMA to :— Ri Oho M, 

Inekoki 1 — 2J 

Nagoudo 1 18 3J 

Tsuna-ga-taira . . . 1 — 2 J 

Yoriaido 2 — 5 

Kawaura 1 — 2 J 

Nomugi 3 — 7| 

Adanogo 2 — 5 

Kami-ga-hora 2 — 5 

Naka-no-shuku .. 1 — 2 J 

Ichi-no-shuku.... 2 — 5 

Kibyu-dani 1 13 3 J 

Kabuto 2 31 7 

TAKAYAMA 2 34 7J- 

Total... 23 24 57£ 



264 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etohu. 



5. — Yaki-ga-take and Hodaka- 

YAMA. 

The best starting point for these 
fine expeditions is Kamikochi On- 
sen (4,980 ft.) which affords fair 
accommodation and where provi- 
sions, guides and porters can be 
obtained. The good air, pleasant 
surroundings and magnificent 
scenery render Kamikochi a most 
attractive mountaineering centre. 
The inn is open from April until 
the end of October. 

Yari-ga-take, lit. Spear Peak, 
is most easily reached from the 
Shinshu side via Shinonoi on the 
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, Matsu- 
moto, and Shima-shima (see p. 260), 
where guides can be engaged. The 
first part of the way lies along a 
lovely valley and the path ultimate- 
ly crosses the steep Tokugo-toge, 
7,100 ft., between Nabe-kamuri- 
yama on the N., and Kasumi-ga-take 
on the S. The Tokugo hut, 4,950 
ft., on the far side of the pass, is 
grandly situated in the forest on the 
bank of the Azusa-gawa, at a dis- 
tance of some 7 hrs. on foot from 
Shima-shima, and fair-sized trout 
are here caught in abundance. 
Three miles further on lies Kami- 
kochi (see above). Opposite rises the 
magnificent granite peak of Hodaka- 
yama, which in form and position 
resembles the Aiguille du Dru near 
Ohamonix. From Kamikochi the 
climb to the summit will take 
about 9 or 10 hrs., the distance 
being calculated at 8 or 9 ri, though 
the rough nature of the ground to 
be traversed makes such calcula- 
tions of comparatively little use. 

[An alternative way up, branch- 
ing off 5 m. beyond the Tokugo 
hut, is via the Yoko-o-dani. 
Some consider this shorter. In 
any case it is more difficult ; 
but the scenery is far wilder 
and grander, and the torrent 
need not be so often crossed. 
The oidinary route is rejoined 
at the hunter's cave called 



Bbzu-goya (see below) about 1J 
hrs. below the summit of the 
peak.] 

The route lies alternately up one 
side or other of the bed or banks 
of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On 
the 1. the steep* craggy, granitic 
precipices of Hodaka-yama, streaked 
with slopes of shining snow, rise to 
a height of over 10,000 ft., while on 
the r. are lower wooded hills. Noble 
mountains are these precipitous 
masses of granite, surpassing in 
wildness any to be seen elsewhere 
in Japan. There is no part of the 
country in so truly primeval a state 
as these torrent-riven valleys in 
the heart of the Hida-Shinshu 
range. At an elevation of 6,400 
ft., the Akasawa no Iwa-goya is 
reached where the night may be 
passed under the shelter of a great 
wedge of rock with water and 
firewood at hand. Just above it the 
forest ceases, and the first snow- 
field is crossed. Below the summit, 
it winds up and among huge 
bare masses of rock piled in inde- 
scribable confusion. From the 
irregular resting of some of these 
blocks, so-called " caves " are 
formed. The best of these, the 
Bozu-goya is the nearest to the base 
of Yari-ga-take and may well be 
used as a bivouac by those who 
wish to be early on the summit to 
secure the magnificent view. After 
a stiff climb over snow and debris, 
and a scramble up one side of the 
peak, we gain the summit, which 
consists of a short narrow ridge 
of broken rock, — the tip of the 
"Spear," nearly perpendicular on 
all sides but the S.E. 

" The view," says the Rev. Walter 
Weston, " as one looks straight 
down into the wild and desolate 
valleys that stretch away from the 
base of the mountain, is most 
impressive. To the north lie the 
almost unknown peaks of the range 
between the provinces of Shinshu 
and Etchu, which stretches far 
towards the Sea of Japan. On t^he 



Yari-ga-toJce. Harinoki-toge. 



265 



west stands the rugged form of 
Kasa-dake. Southwards, the eye 
rests on the nearer giants of this 
group, Hodaka-yama (Myojin-dake) 
and the massive double-topped 
Norikura, and beyond these Ontake 
with the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu 
on its eastern side. To the south- 
east, but farther oft, stands the 
great mass of mountains on the 
borders of Shinshu and Koshu, 
the most prominent peaks being 
Shirane-san, Akaishi-san, and 
Koma-ga-take. But most striking 
of all is the stately cone of Fuji 
rising with its majestic sweep 
supreme above all else, at a dis- 
tance, as the crow flies, of over 85 
miles. To enumerate all the sum- 
mits to be seen from the point on 
which we stand, would be to give 
a list of all the grandest mountains 
in Japan. Only the haze and 
clouds to the north-west prevent 
our view from embracing the sea in 
the Bay of Toyama, so that nearly 
the whole width of the central por- 
tion of the main island is included 
in this magnificent prospect." 

The descent will occupy about 2J 
hrs. to the Akasawa no Iwa-goya, 
and thence some 5 hrs. more to 
Kamikochi. 

An alternative, but much finer 
way up, from the Bdzu-goya (first 
taken by the Rev. W. Weston in 
19 12) leads over the ridge near the 
foot of the peak, and descends 
abruptly into the snow-filled gully 
below. Crossing this, the ascent 
mounts diagonally across to the 
N. arete of Yari-ga-take, and the 
top is attained by several steep 
' chimneys ' in the nearly perpendi- 
cular rocks immediately below the 
highest point. The climb from 
the Bozu-goya needs experience, 
and will take from 2-3 hours. 

The ascent of Hodaka-yama 
should be made from Kamikochi. 
Soon after leaving the Onsen, the 
bridge over the Azusa-gawa is cross- 
ed, and in about 15 rains, more, the 
river has to be forded to its r. bank. 
Here the track leads first through 



bamboo grass and then through the 
forest, until about 1J hrs. from 
Kamikochi we emerge into the great 
gorge known as Shirasawa, where 
for 1 hr. the way lies over loose 
broken rocks ending in a long nar- 
row slope of snow. (From here the 
route for Oku-Hodaka turns off to 
the r., reaching that point in about 
3 hrs., part of the way being rough 
and steep.) Leaving the snow in 
20 to 30 min., the ascent now mounts 
for several hours up an exceedingly 
steep face of broken granite, the 
climbing being in some parts very 
difficult. 

The time taken to the highest 
peak, the culminating point of the 
whole Hodaka group, (10,250 ft.) 
from Kamikochi (climbed for the 
first time by the Bev. Yv r alter 
Weston in August, 1912) was 5 hrs. 
40 mins. including halts. The view 
from the summit of the wild 
pinnacled ridges and desolate ra- 
vines on either hand is unique in the 
Japanese Alps. The distant pro- 
spect is similar to that from the 
summit of Yari-ga-take. The de- 
scent to Kamikochi will occupy 
about 4J hrs. 

6. — Fbom Omachi to Toyama oyee 

THE HaBINOKI-TOGE. 

The greater portion of the follow- 
ing itinerary and of the description 
given below must be regarded as 
approximate only, the difficulty of 
keeping communication open across 
so rugged a region being pecu- 
liary great. There is little chance 
of crossing the pass before the 
yama-biralci, or " mountain open- 
ing," on the 20th June. Even du- 
ring the summer months communi- 
cation is often entirely interrupted, 
as the result of heavy rains, and 
none but experienced mountaineers 
can hope to succeed in forcing a 
way for themselves. Difficulty is 
sometimes experienced in obtain- 
ing the services of hunters to act 
as guides, the Harinoki-toge 
being now seldom crossed, as the 



266 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and, Etchu. 



central portion of the original track 
has, owing to avalanches and land- 
slips, been practically effaced. 
Still, the route remains one of the 
grandest, as well as one of the 
most arduous, mountaineering 
expeditions in Japan. 

Itinerary. 

AKASHINAto:— Ri Cho M. 

Omachi 5 12 13 

Noguchi 13 1\ 

Top Harinoki Pass. 5 5 12J 

Kurobe 3 — 7|- 

Top of Zara-goe.... 17 3 

Yumoto 2 — 5 

Hara 5. — 12J- 

Omi 1— 1 2| 

Kamidald 3 12 8J 

TOYAMA 3 20 8} 

Total 30 2 731* 



Basha can be taken from. Aka- 
shina station (see p. 253) to Omachi, 
time, 3 hours. 

Omachi (Inn, Yama-cho, also 
called Taisan-kwan) presents an 
old-world appearance, owing to its 
flat-roofed wooden houses like the 
cottages in the Alps, with heavy 
stones to keep down the shingling. 
Quarters can also be obtained at 
Noguchi ; but it is advisable to 
make enquiries concerning the state 
of the road and to_ engage stout- 
limbed guides at Omachi. Very 
little shelter is to be found before 
reaching the Byuzan-jita baths. 
There are two huts at Kurobe and 
a rude camping-place called 
Ushigoya just below the summer 
limit of the snow on the pass, 
about 1 ri from the top, at an eleva- 
tion of some 5,500 ft. As it jis hard 
work to reach Kurobe from Omachi 
in one day, the traveller must 
put up with this ; and on the follow- 
ing day a short, but extremely 
rough, scramble over the snow and 
down the steep mountain side and 
the torrent bed on the W. of the 
pass, will bring him to Kurobe, 



where the second night must be 
spent. 

From the summit (8,120 ft.), Fuji 
is seen as in a vignette between the 
ranges of Yatsu-ga-take and Koma* 
ga-take, the other most noteworthy 
feature of the view being Yari-ga- 
take. 

[A round, bare peak called Go- 
roku-dake, 9,100 ft., may be 
ascended from this point by 
forcing a way through low, 
dense clumps of creeping pine ; 
but there is no shelter to sleep 
in. The peak consists of 
trachyte porphyry piled against 
granite.] 

The traveller now leaves the 
province of Shinshu for that of 
Etchu, and will notice, both on the 
summit and on the way down, the 
alder-trees (hari-no-ki or han-no-ki) 
which give to the pass its name. 
(The valley on this side is known 
as the Harinoki-sawa). The Kurobe 
huts stand on the bank of the swift 
Kurobe-gawa, (good trout are taken 
in this stream), which has to be 
crossed in a cage running on a wire 
cable before the night's shelter can 
be reached. From here to Byuzan- 
jita is another short but arduous 
scramble over the Nukui-dani-toge 
and the Zara-goe, 7,300 ft. The 
valley below the latter pass, filled 
with shining slopes of snow topped 
with precipitous cliffs, is very 
lovely, whilst the view from the 
summit is magnificently wild. All 
around, enormous landslips and 
confused masses of rock, hurled 
down from the tops of the moun- 
tains to the gorge below, bear 
witness to the terribly destructive 
forces by which this part of the 
country has been ravaged. The 
rocky mass in front is one of the 
slopes of Tateyama, while on the 1. 
a view of the soft plains of Toyama 
and of the sea beyond contrasts 
agreeably with the savage aspect of 
the nearer landscape. The Jinzu- 



Ascent of Orenge-yama. 



267 



gawa is seen in the plain winding 
its way towards the Sea of Japan, 
and the blue outline of the pro- 
vinces of Kaga and Noto fills up the 
distant background. The descent 
leads through a wilderness of rocks 
and stones, and includes the most 
difficult portions of the whole ex- 
pedition. Here and there sulphur 
fumes are seen rising from the 
mountain side, and shortly before 
reaching Ryuzan-jita a circular 
lake [Mago-ike) of hot sulphurous 
water is passed on the 1. hand. 

Yuinoto, or Ryuzan-jita, com- 
monly called Tateyama Onsen (fair 
accommodation) on account of its 
hot springs, stands at a height of 
4,150 ft., in a desolate waste, — 
a chaos of large boulders, sand, and 
stones left by the great earthquake 
of 1858. For ascent of Tateyama 
from this place, see p. 269. On 
quitting this place, the path con- 
tinues down a grand, rugged gorge, 
called Dashiwara-dani at its upper 
end. Before descending to Kami- 
dak i (good inn) the best general 
view of Tateyama and of the range 
forming the boundary of the 
province of Etchu is obtained. 
The road onward crosses a well- 
cultivated plain to 

Toyama (see Rte. 46). 

7. — From Itotgawa on the Sea or 
Japan to Omachi and Matstj- 
moto. Ascent of Orenge- 
yama (Shtro-tjma-dake) 
and jonen-dake. 

Bail can be taken TV. from 
Naoetsu to Itoi-gawa, (see Route 
46) whence_ a jinrikisha road 
runs S. to Omachi and Matsu- 
moto, thus skirting nearly the 
whole length of the E. side of the 
Hida-Etchu range, affording grand 
views of many of the mountains, 
and giving access to their inmost 
recesses. This road follows the 
valley of the Plimekawa, — here a 
roaring torrent, there a silent 
though swift-flowing stream. After 
6 ri of varied and picturesque 



scenery, we reach Yamandbb, where 
good quarters may be found at the 
Soncho's, and arrangements made 
for_the ascent of Orenge-yama. 

Orenge-yama, the highest 
mountain in the . N. portion of the 
range, receives its name from a 
fancied resemblance to the lotus- 
flower. Strictly speaking, it is a 
cluster of peaks rather than one 
distinct mountain. Its highest 
point is known, on the southern 
or Shinshu side, as Shiro-uma-dake 
see p. 268. From the Soncho's 
house it is a walk of about 7 hrs., 
including halts at the hamlets of 
Odokoro and Kishi, to Renge On- 
sen, lj ri before reaching which, we 
climb the Hatcho-zaka, in whose 
neighbourhood is a mine called 
Itatate. Both accommodation and 
fare at the Onsen are poor. The 
solfataras, however, and the lake 
well deserve inspection. The 
numerous hot springs vary in 
temperature from 95° to 118° 
Fahrenheit. Leaving the Onsen at 
day-break, a roughish scramble 
through the forest and over snow- 
slopes brings us in about 3 hrs. to 
another quaint old mine, fine views 
being gained of the great snow-clad 
peak of Yukikura-dake on the op- 
posite side of the valley. From the 
mine to the mountain top takes 
nearly 2 J hrs. more, chiefly on 
snow, until reaching the final arete, 
whence over broken volcanic rocks 
to the summit Shiro-uma, where we 
are greeted by an astonishingly 
extensive view, ranging from To- 
yama Bay aud the peninsula of 
Noto on the N.W. to Fuji on the 
S.E., — in fact right across Central 
Japan. The nearer prospect, es- 
pecially on the E-, is that of precip- 
itous broken depths and great 
glistening snow-slopes. The des- 
cent to the Onsen need not occupy 
more than 3£ hrs. (a rough track 
leads, about 4 ri, over Tengu-hara, 
from the Onsen to Chikuni on the 
main road to Omachi.) 

From Yamanobo to Omachi is a 



268 



Route 29.— Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



distance of about 15 ri. Jinrikishas 
must not be counted on ; but horses 
or small carts (ni- gumma) can 
always be procured for the luggage. 
The best accommodation on the 
way is at Kudarise, also called 
Bamba (Inn, Zeni-ya). 

Shiro-uma-dake, or Hakuba- 
san, thejnost S.W. and loftiest peak 
of the Orenge group, is ascended 
from Hosono-mura, near its base, 
where the usual country accommo- 
dation, guides, and kanjiki (the last 
essential for the climb over the 
snow) are obtainable. (Better 
accommodation can be found at 
Yotsuya (Inn, Yamaki-ya) a Till. 18 
chb from Hosono on the main road.) 
The climb takes a whole day, the 
ensuing night being spent at a hut 
near the summit, and the descent 
occupying 7 hrs. About f hr. 
beyond Hosono, the path crosses 
the 1. fork of the river and follows 
the r. fork, mostly under shade and 
is, in parts, steep. It finally crosses 
the torrent by a rude bridge 5 min. 
from a hut below the snow. A 
little further the path lies chiefly 
over snow, — an arduous climb oc- 
cupying about 2£ hrs. Forty-five 
min. above the snow stands another 
hut from which the nearest summit 
is reached in 20 min., the peaks of 
Shozu-ga-take, W», Shakushi-ga- 
take, S., and beyond, Yari-ga-take, 
(not the mountain described on p. 
264), being accessible in about 1 
hr., 2 hrs., and 5 hrs. respectively. 
All might be ascended in one day, 
involving a stay of two nights at 
the hut. The views include the 
ranges beyond Nagano, Asama, Fuji, 
the Kofu mountains, the whole 
panorama of the Hida range and a 
wide stretch of the Japan Sea and 
coast line. Many Alpine plants are 
found on the mountain. The as- 
cent of Shiro-uma from the south 
side offers one of the finest and 
most interesting snow expeditions 
in the whole of the Japanese Alps. 

Beyond Yotsuya the valley opens 
out, and the road passes on the E. 
side of lovely Lake Aoki, and also 



later on of Lake Kizaki, _beiore 
reaching the plain in which Omachi 
(see p. 266) stands. __ 

Basha run between Omachi and 
Akashina station (see p. 253). 
Grand views during all the first 
part of the way as we cross the 
lower foot-hills of the Hida range. 

For the ascent of Jonen-dake, 
take the road branching off W. at 
Toyoshina (1 ri 9 chb from Aka- 
shina) to the hamlet of Iicahara, 
about 2 ri, which is the best start- 
ing-point for this, the beautiful 
pyramidal peak due E. of Yari-ga- 
take. Fair accommodation at a 
small tea-house about 1 m. from 
Iwahara. Guides for the ascent can 
be procured through the Sonchb of 
the village. The ascent will occupy 
about 12 hrs., and the descent 8 
hrs., inclusive of halts. Two days 
are therefore necessary, the first of 
which is devoted to the climb up to 
the bivouac on the N. shoulder of 
the mountain, the ascent being 
completed early the following 
morning, so as to ensure a clear 
view and a return to Iwahara by 
daylight. The expedition begins 
by crossing the Karasu-gawa, after 
which we turn westward over a 
moor, whose soft springy turf is 
gay with kikyb and lilies. After 
several miles of this, the track winds 
round the flanks of the intervening 
hills until, about 5 hrs. from the 
start, we again reach the wild rocky 
bed of the Karasu-gawa. Our way 
now follows the stream for nearly 
5 hrs. more of very rough and 
arduous work. Leaving it at 
length, we strike up a steep ravine 
on the left. Up this, or through 
the trees of the precipitous slope on 
its r., we scramble to the camping- 
place where the night is spent in 
the pine forest, and where a 
magnificent view rewards us for 
our toil. Confronting us are all 
the mighty precipices between 
Yari-ga-take and Hodaka-yama, 
seamed and streaked with snow. 
Grander still, after the final climb, 
is the panorama from the summit, 



Tateyama. 



269 



including nearly all the great peaks 
of the Hida-Shinshti range, with 
Fuji and the intervening Koshu 
group, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu, 
Asama-yama, and many more. 

[It is possible to descend to 
Kami-k5chi (see p. 264) by way 
of the Ni-no-mata, which leads 
into the valley of the Azusa- 
gawa, between the Akasawa- 
goya and the Tokugo-hut, but 
one must be prepared to spend 
a night on the way.] 

8. — Tateyama. 

Tateyama is the collective name 
given to the lofty summits which 
stand on the E. border of the prov- 
ince of Etchu, to the N.W. of the 
Harinoki Pass. The highest of the 
peaks (Go-honsha) rises 9,831 ft. 
above the level of the sea. The 
main ascent leads up the W. side of 
the mountain from the hamlet of 
Ashikura (accommodation at the 
Shint5 priest's house), which can be 
reached from Toyama, the capital 
of Etchu, via Kamidaki (good inn). 
The distances are : — Toyama to 
Kamidaki, 3 ri 12 cho by jinrildsha; 
thence on foot to Ashikura, 3 ri 8 
cho, — making 16J m. altogether. 

The way up the mountain is 
arduous in parts, nor is there any 
shelter, except two or three wretched 
huts, to be got during the whole 
distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to 
the Murodo, 2 J m. from the sum- 
mit. The Murod5 itself is a better 
and larger hut, which is opened for 
the accommodation of pilgrims 
from the 20th July to the 10th 
September. Scarcely anything in 
the way of bedding is procurable, 
and but little to eat except rice. 
(In a valley situated about 6 cho to 
the 1. of the Murodo are the re- 
markable solfataras of Ojigoku, or 
" Big Hell." The way thither, after 
passing between two tarns, one of 
which is probably an old crater, 
reaches the brow of a hill com- 



manding a bird's-eye view of the 
springs. The whole valley seems 
alive with pools of boiling mud and 
sulphur. Descending to the bottom, 
one should tread carefully amidst 
the small hillocks of sulphur, as a 
false step might plunge one into 
the boiling liquid beneath.) 

From the Murodd hut to the 
highest summit, whose name of Go- 
honsha comes from the picturesque 
temple with which it is crowned, 
is 1 hr. climb, partly across snow- 
slopes and then up the rocky peak 
forming the top of the mountain. 
At the end, a superb panorama 
unfolds itself before the spectator's 
gaze. The number of mountains 
to be distinguished is exceptionally 
great. To the extreme ]., looking 
eastward, are seen Myoko-zan and 
Yoneyama in Echigo. Nantai-zan 
near Nikko, and Togakushi-san and 
Asama-yama in Shinshu. Towards 
the S.E. rises the range of Yatsu-ga- 
take, with the isolated peak of 
Tateshima-yama, beyond which are 
seen Fuji and the high peaks of 
Shirane and Koma-ga-take in 
Koshu. To the S. are Koma-ga- 
take and Ontake in Shinshu ; Yari- 
ga-take, Norikura, and Kasadake, 
with (in closer proximity) Yakushi- 
dake — all in Hida. To the S.W. is 
Haku-san on the borders of Kaga, 
Below, to the W.y lie the plains of 
Kaga and Etchti, the latter watered 
by the rivers Jinzu and Jogwanji, 
while to the N. the view is bounded 
by the Sea of Japan. 

The traveller who succeeds in 
reaching Ryuzan-jita (see p. 267) 
will find the climb from there 
up Tateyama far preferable to that 
from Ashikura ; for though the first 
part of the ascent is very steep, 
the whole expedition can be com- 
fortably accomplished in one day, 
if the start be made at daybreak, 
and thus the night in the crowded 
and uncomfortable Murodo, with 
its host of pilgrims and fleas, may 
be avoided. A little more than 
1 hr. climb up the cliffs by the 
pilgrims' path, just opposite the 



270 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



baths, lands him on the edge of a 
wide plateau called Mida-ga-hara> 
the view from near the top of 
the ridge being exceptionally fine. 
The track is then fairly level, 
though often wet and slippery, and 
ultimately falls in with the path 
leading from Ashikura to the sum- 
mit of the mountain. 

[Time from the Onsen to the 
summit about 5 hrs., descent 
about 4 hrs.] 

9. — Fbom Toyama or Kanazawa to 

Takayama in Hida by the Vai> 

ley of the shieakawa. 

The first stage in either case is 
by rail to Talcaoka, whence also by 
rail southwards to Jo-ga-hana, after 
which the itinerary is as follows : — 

JO-GA-HANAto:— Mi Cho M. 

ShimoNashi 4 4 10 

MshiAkao 2 26 6| 

Tsubaki-hara 3 10 8 

Iijima 2 18 6 

Hirase 2 30 7 

Iwase 2 5 5| 

Kurodani 1 22 3f 

Mumai 1 33 4| 

KamiOdori 2 18 6 

Maki-ga-hora 2 26 6f 

Mikka-machi 10 f 

TAKAYAMA 1 20 3| 

Total 28 6 68£ 



This route is not practicable for 
jinrikishas, except between Mikka- 
machi and Takayama ; but they are 
not always to be found at the 
former place. Horses are not pro- 
curable in the valley of the Shira- 
kawa, and baggage is transported 
by cattle or on coolies' backs. 
Fairly good accommodation can be 
had at Jo-ga-hana, and accommoda- 
tion, which is at least passable, at 
most of the villages. The scenery 
is for the most part delightfully 
jricturesque, and there are many 
magnificent distant views. 



The inhabitants of this remote valley 
are believed to be descended partly from 
members of the famous Taira family, 
who fled hither on the occasion of their 
overthrow in the 12th century (see p. 84), 
partly from samurai banished from the 
provinces of Kaga and Etchu in Toku- 
gawa times. Peculiar customs obtain in 
certain villages, especially Hirase, Nagase, 
and Maki. The power of the head of the 
family is here despotic. Moreover, only 
the heir (generally the eldest son) is 
allowed to marry. The other sons form 
semi-secret liaisons, the offspring of which 
are adopted either by the paternal or 
the maternal family head, and, being 
considered inferior, are not mourned 
for when they die. Whole families live 
under one patriarchal roof,— brothers, 
sisters, uncles, aunts, nephews, nieces, 
grandchildren, cousins of various degrees; 
and the houses are correspondingly large, 
mostly three-storied. A division into 
separate rooms is seldom attempted. 

10. — Haku-san. 

This mountain, standing on the 
borders of the four provinces of 
Echizen, Kaga, Hida, and Mino, 
may be ascended either from Kana- 
zawa or from Fukui. The itinerary 
by the former route to Yumoto, a 
vill. at the base, is as follows : — 

KANAZAWA (Ohashi) to:— 

Hi Cho If. 

Tsurugi 4 7 10J 

Onnawara 5 29 14 J 

Ushikubi 4 4 10 

YUMOTO (about) ... 5 — 12 J 

Total 19 4 46| 



Fair accommodation at Tsurugi; 
better at 

Yumoto (Inn, Yamada-ya). The 
road, though sandy, is practicable 
for jinrikisha as far as Tsurugi ; 
from Ushikubi onwards the river 
flows through a rocky ravine, whose 
crags rise to a great height. Yumoto, 
a tiny hamlet noted for its hot 
springs, is completely shut in by 
densely wooded hills, and is deserted 
in winter by its inhabitants, who do 
not return till the beginning of June. 
There are ^ several other sulphur 
springs on' the mountain side. 
Tickets for the ascent of Haku-san 



Ontake. 



271 



are sold at the " mountain office." 
The ascent and descent make an 
easy day's expedition, the climb to 
the Murodb hut occupying a good 
walker 3 hrs., and the steep clamber 
thence to the shrine on the top ( Go- 
honsha), 25 min. The glorious view 
from the summit includes Tate- 
yama N.E., Yari-ga-take E.N.E., 
Norikura a little to the S. of E., 
Yatsu-ga-take and the Koma-ga-take 
of Koshfi in the dim distance, On- 
take E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-take 
of Shinshu. In the immediate 
neighbourhood are Bessan on the 
S. and Onanji on the N., which, 
with the central and highest peak 
called Gozen-mine, together consti- 
tute the three summits of Haku-san. 
To the N.W. rises the lofty top of 
Shaka-ga-take. On the E. side is 
Tsurugi, or " the Sword," so called 
from its pointed peaks, and on the 
W. the Oku-uo-in. Two tarns lie 
at the bottom of what are apparent- 
ly ancient craters. The water of 
the one which lies to the N. is of a 
beautiful turquoise, that of the 
other dull in colour ; both are taste- 
less. 

The itinerary from Fukui to 
Yumoto is as follows : 

FUKUI (Arahashi) to :— 

M Cho M. 

Matsuoka...... 2 ~ 4 5J- 

Komyoji 1 22 3f 

Katsuyama 4 — 9 J 

Kogo 2 8 5J 

YTasamori farm 2 32 7 

TopofKikikane-toge 1 18 3| 

Mizutani 2 — 5 

YUMOTO 18 3 

Total 17 20 42f 



Jinrikishas go as far as Katsu- 
yama, (fair accommodation) or even 
Kogo. The scenery, flat at first, 
becomes picturesque after passing 
Matsuoka and entering the valley 
of the Kuzuryu-gawa. The ascent 
of the steep KUcikane-toge takes 1 
hr., the descent, too, on the opposite 
side is steep and rough in to Yumoto. 



11. — Ontake and the Koma-ga- 
take of Shinshu. 

Ontake,* one of the loftiest 
mountains in Japan, is considered 
the most sacred next is Fuji, and 
yearly attracts crowds of pilgrims. 

The phenomena of trance and so-called 
divine possession, often to be witnessed 
on this holy peak, have been fully de- 
scribed by Mr. Percival Lowell in his 
work entitled Occult Japan. 

Dr. Rein, writing from a very different 
point of view, says; "Ontake is a long 
ridge running N. and S., on the summit 
of which are eight larger and several 
smaller craters. Six of the former lie in 
a row along the ridge, while the other 
two are situated on the N.W. side towards 
Hida. They are more or less circular in 
form, from 300 to 1,000 metres (2,624 to 
3,280 ft.) in circumference, and with one 
exception have no great depth. Their 
walls have fallen in in many places, and 
access to most of them is thereby facili- 
tated. Their relative age can be easily 
recognised by the weathering of the dole- 
ritic lava, but still better by the manner 
in which vegetation has planted itself in 
them and their sunken walls. Thus the 
most northerly crater, which now con- 
tains a tarn, and whose sides offer a rich 
harvest to the botanist, seems to be the 
oldest ; then come the 2nd and 3rd, pro- 
ceeding S., and lastly the 4th and highest, 
from the S. side of which we survey the 
surrounding prospect. Each of these 
craters lies 15 to 20 metres (50 to 65 ft.) 
higher than the one immediately preced- 
ing. The 6th from the N., which is 
entirely surrounded by the wall of the 
5th, is indisputably a comparatively new 
formation, for its steep and fissured sides 
are quite fresh and devoid of vegetation, 
as if they had only lately cooled down. 
No debris are to be distinguished any- 
where, as far as the eye can follow the 
deep ravine, which is connected with this 
crater on the S.W. Far below springs a 
brook, close to which rises up the steam 
of a solfatara. No eruption of Ontake, 
however, seems to have taken place in 
historical times." — Ontake is particularly 
rich in Alpine species of plants. 

The best starting-point for those 
approaching Ontake from the E. is 
Fukushima on the Central Eailway, 
whence the summit may be reached 
in 1 day by making an early start. 
The night is spent at a hut near the 

*Also called Mitalce, but not to be con- 
founded with the other mountains of that 
name in Musashi and Koslrii. 



272 



Route 29. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu. 



top, whence the descent occupies a 
short day. Some recommend that 
while the mountain is being 
climbed, the luggage should be 
sent on to Agematsu, and the 
descent be made to that place by 
turning off at Kurozawa, the road 
between which and Agematsu is 
fairly good and the scenery lovely. 
A still better alternative, is to de- 
scend by the ordinary pilgrim route 
to Otaki (good inn) 7 hrs., whence 
the walk into Agematsu via Hashide 
occupies some 3 hrs. more. 

Steps formed of logs facilitate the 
climb through the forest. Ridges 
of cinders and rough debris of rocks 
have then to be passed. The view 
from the summit embraces Haku- 
san to the N.W., then to the r. the 
peninsula of Noto, and still further 
to the r. a row of mighty peaks that 
bear traces of snow even during the 
greatest summer heat. Conspicu- 
ous among these are Norikura, Yari- 
ga-take, and Tateyama. Far to the 
N.E. rise the volcano of Asama and 
the chain separating the provinces 
of K5tsuke and Shinshu. To the 
E. appears Yatsu-ga-take, and to 
the S. E. far-off Fuji, with the 
Koma-ga-take of Shinshu in the 
near distance. 

The Shinshfi Koma-ga-take 

is most conveniently ascended from 
Agematsu. The distance from that 
village to the summit is called 4 ri 
8 cho, and the ascent, part of which 
is very steep, will occupy a good 
walker over 6 hrs. The native pil- 
grims, who do not care to make the 
round of the various peaks forming 
the top of the mountain, but merely 
wish to visit Go-honsha, the highest 
point, usually ascend and descend 
in one day. But the traveller is 
recommended rather to time his 
excursion so as to sleep at a hut 
called Tamakubo, 3 ri 32 cho from 
Agematsu, in order to witness the 
magnificent spectacle of sunrise 
from the summit. Looking east- 
ward, the eye sweeps along an 
almost continuous line of moun- 



tains that rise beyond the valleys 
of the Chikuma-gawa and Tenryu- 
gawa, the prominent summits in 
order from the 1. being Asama-yama 
N.N.E., Tateshina N.E. by N., 
Yatsu-ga-take N. E., by E., the K6- 
shu Koma-ga-take E. by N., and, 
directly opposite, Shirane-san, in- 
cluding all its three summits, — Kai- 
gane, Ai-no-take, and Nodori. The 
sharp peak seen between Koma-ga- 
take and Kaigane is the summit of 
Ho-6-zan. To the S.E. rise a lofty 
snow-streaked range with three 
conspicuous summits, the highest 
of which is called Akaishi. Another 
striking feature is the cone of Fuji, 
towering up beyond a depression to 
the r. of Nodori. Looking westward, 
the view embraces a considerable 
portion of the Hida-Shinshu range, 
the most prominent summit being 
Ontake bearing N. of W., to whose 
r., rising in succession to the N., 
are Norikura, Kasa-dake, Hodaka- 
yama, and Y 7 ari-ga-take. The peaks 
of Tateyama are discernible beyond 
Yari-ga-take. To the N. W. the 
distant outline of Haku-san is visi- 
ble, while in nearer proximity to 
the S. rises Ena-san in the province 
of Mino. There is also an extensive 
view over the province of Mikawa 
and a portion of Totomi, with 
several mountains, including the 
double summit of Horaiji-yama in 
the former province and Akiha-san 
in the latter. 

Instead of returning to Age- 
matsu, one may descend Koma-ga- 
take on the E. side to Ina on the 
Ina Kaido in one day. There the 
Eapids of the Tenryu-gawa are 
within easy reach (see Rte. 33) ; or 
the Central Railway may be rejoin- 
ed at Tatsuno. 

12. — Ena-san. 

Standing at the S. end of the 
great divide between the Kiso and 
Tenryu valleys, this fine mountain 
commands a magnificent panorama 
of the mountains of Central Japan, 
and has the advantage of being 



Route 30. — Ways to and from Kbfu. 



273 



comparatively easy of access. The 
ascent is made from Nakatsu-gawa 
(p. 255), whence the expedition up 
and down takes one long day, with 
delightful views. The distance is 
estimated at 13 miles. 

Nakatsu-gawa being conveniently 
situated for reaching the Tenryu- 
gawa, the descent of the rapids of 
that river may be combined with a 
trip up Ena-san. It is a day's walk 
over the Misaka-toge, with lovely 
views of Ontake and the mountains 
of Koshu, to Tokimata. An alter- 
native way is to take train to 
Midono for Tsumago, whence over 
the Odaira-toge (see p. 255). 



ROUTE 30. 



Ways to and from Kofu. 
1. from t5kyo to kofu. [ozurt to 

YOSHIDA.] 2. k5fU AND NEIGH- 
BOURHOOD. 3. VALLEY OF THE 
TAMAGAWA. 4. DOWN THE RAPIDS 
OF THE FUJIKAWA TO MINOBU AND 
THE t5eAIDO. 5. EDFU TO LAKE 
SUWA AND SHIOJIRI. 6. FROM KOFU 
TO YOSHIDA AND GOTEMBA. 7. 
FROM KARUIZAWA TO KOFU. 

Kofu is a pleasant provincial 
town, — its central situation in the 
beautiful province of Koshu, and its 
proximity to places of such peculiar 
interest as Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, 
the Eapids of the Fujikawa, etc., 
causing it to be included in so 
many different tours as to render a 
description of the several ways to 
and from it advisable. 



1. — From T5kyo to Kofu by rail. 



U - 'O 


Names 




of 


Kemarks 


S" H 


Stations 






TOKYO (Shin- 






_ jiku) 




|m. 


Okubo 




3 


Nakano 




H 


Ogikubo 




H 


Kichijoji 


(For I-no- 
( kashira. 


13 


Sakai 


For Koganei. 
( For Tamaga- 


Kokubunji Jet. 


17 


Tachikawa Jet... 


< wa Valley, p. 


19 


Hino 


( 276. 


20£ 


Toyoda 


( For Higasbi 


23 


HACHIO JI Jet . . 


\ Kancgawa,p. 


26 


Asakawa 


( 109. 


32 


Yose 




37 


Ueno-hara 




11 


Torisawa 




16 


Enkyo 


(Alight for 


18 
52 


Ozuki 


\ Yoshida and 
( Fuji. 


Hatsukari 


55 


Sasago 




59£ 


Hajikano 




65| 


Enzan 




68| 


Kusakabe 




72J- 


Isawa 




761 


KOFU 





[This route affords an alternative 
way from Tokyo for those wish- 
ing to ascend Fuji from Yoshida 
on the N. E. slope of that 
mountain ; the lakes at its base, 
and Shdji (see Koutes 8 and 9).] 

From Hachioji onwards, the line closely 
follows the ancient and picturesque high- 
way known as the Koshu Kaido, from the 
fact of its connecting the capital with 
the province of Koshu. This province 
being encircled by a barrier of lofty 
mountains (7,000 to 10,000 ft.) , a large 
amount of tunnelling had to be resorted 
to, with the result that much of the 
beauty of this route has been sacrificed. 
There are no less than 11 tunnels in all, 
with an aggregate length of 12 miles, out 
of the 53 miles traversed between Hachi- 
oji and Kofu. 

The run across the plain to 
Hachioji and Asakawa takes Ijhrs. 
This wide plain known as Sagami- 
hara, is now left behind, and a 



274 



Route 30. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



long tunnel (If m.) entered, which 
cuts through the Kobotoke Pass. 
Emerging on the other side, we en- 
ter the valley of the Katsura-gawa 
(known by the alternative name of 
Banyii lower down), whose tortuous 
windings are seen 1. at the bottom 
of a deep ravine. Beautiful vistas 
of mountain and valley open out 
beyond the river, which remains 
a constant companion for many 
miles. For the descent of the 
rapids of this river, see p. 109. The 
town of 

Ueno-hara (Inn, Yamada-kwan) 
stands on a plateau high above the 
stream. Leaving it, we cross the 
Tsuru-kawa, a tributary of the 
Katsura. After another long tun- 
nel, peaky hills and tiny hamlets 
appear on the r. bank of the latter 
river all the way on to 

Enkyo (Inn, Daikoku-ya), whose 
station stands § m. from the town. 

Enkyo means the " Monkey's Bridge." 
It is also called Saru-hashi, the latter 
name being the pure Japanese pronuncia- 
tion of the same ideographs. The place 
derives its appellation from the bridge 
having formerly been a mere crazy 
plank, such as monkeys alone might be 
supposed likely to venture across. The 
present bridge is of the cantilever sort, 
having the ends of the horizontal beams 
planted deep in the soil that covers the 
rock. 

Perpendicular cliffs frown down 
upon the dark emerald stream, 
which is narrow and deep at this 
point. The gorge and bridge can 
be seen r. from the train as it 
crosses the river. 

Shortly after Enkyo is a large 
electric power station ; observe the 
overflow coming down the hills to 
thel. 

Ozuki (Inn, Fujimi-kwan). 

[A tramway connects this place 
with Yoshida, (see p. 161), 12J 
miles, following up the valley 
of the Katsura-gawa, and pass- 
ing through the thriving town 
of Yamura (Inn, Naito), 8 
miles. The whole road is in a 



manner dominated by Fuji, 
beginning near Ozuki, where 
the great volcano appears en 
vignette, and then grows and 
grows till it fills up the entire 
foreground. It is also interest- 
ing to observe the gradual 
conversion of the lava into 
arable land, partly by weather- 
ing, partly by human toil.] 

After parting company with the 
Katsura-gawa just beyond Ozuki, 
we slowly climb up the narrow 
valley of the Hanasaki-gawa, pass- 
ing by villages devoted to the 
breeding of silkworms. One fine 
glimpse of Fuji is caught on the 
way, through an opening in the 
hills 1. 

At S a sago station a ropeway 
brings down ore from the Takara 
copper mine. Leaving Sasago, the 
train plunges into the longest tunnel 
in Japan (nearly 3 m.), which leads 
under the Sasago-toge, a pass 3,500 
ft. above the sea. On the other 
side, the province of Koshu is 
entered, and splendid views of 
granite ranges are obtained. The 
principal summits on the 1. and 
ahead are Koma-ga-take, H6-6-zan, 
Jizo-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi, 
backed by a chain collectively 
known under the name of Shirane- 
san. Fuji also is visible later on 
over the tops of a range bounding 
the plain on the south. Enzan (Inn, 
Koyd-kwan) possesses a saline 
spring. — The line then passes 
through villages and vineyards into 
Kofu. 



2. — Kofu and Nexghbottkhood : 

MlTAKE AND KlMPTT-ZAN. 

Kofu (Inns, *B6sen-kaku, with 
Europ. restt. in the public garden ; 
*Sadoko, *Yonekura), capital of 
the province of Koshu and of the 
prefecture of Yamanashi, stands in 
a wide, fertile plain, 860 ft. above 
sea-level, surrounded by lofty 
mountain ranges. At the station 



Kofu. Mitake. 



275 



notice the huge monolith erected to 
commemorate the completion of 
the Sasago tunnel, mentioned above. 
It was brought from Sendai in the 
north. 

During the middle ages, the lords of 
this secluded province were often practi- 
cally independent sovereigns. Most 
famous among them was Takeda Shingen, 
for whose adventures see p. 8±. The 
grounds of their castle were partly clear- 
ed to make room for the buildings of the 
Middle School and for the railway, the 
remainder has been converted into a 
public park (Bukakiijo-koen). The spot 
where the keep formerly stood affords a 
fine view. 

The grounds of the Public Garden 
(Koenchi) formerly belonged to the 
Buddhist temple of Ichirenji. Ob- 
serve the twelve stone lanterns 
carved each with one of the signs 
of the zodiac. Kdfu is noted for 
its kaiki, a thin silken fabric used 
for the linings of dresses and for 
bed-quilts. There are several silk- 
reeling and weaving establish- 
ments, employing each from 100 to 
400 hands, mostly females, whose 
work-hours are from 5 A.M. to 8 
and sometimes 11 P.M., without 
any interval for meals or any Sun- 
day rest ! This goes on all the year 
round, with the exception of a 
couple of months in winter. It 
should be added, in justice to the 
employers, that the workers appear 
healthy and contented. Perhaps 
the practice is not so bad as the 
theory. 

The province of Koshu produces 
excellent grapes, which are in their 
prime about the end of September 
or mid-October. Wine is made and 
the grapes are also used for 
making sweetmeats. Crystals are 
found at Mitake in the neighbour- 
hood. A great festival, called 
Miyuki no Matsuri, is held in Kofu 
on the loth April, with the pious 
object of averting the floods of the 
Fuefuki-gawa. 

From Kofu a delightful day's ex- 
cursion may be made to the temples 
of Mitake, distant about 4J ri. 
JinriMshas should be taken over 



the first flat bit as far as Chizuka 
(1 ri), or with two men even to 
Kissaica (2 ri from Kofu). At 
Kissawa a local guide should be 
engaged, who will lead the pedes- 
trian up along the Shindo, or New 
Eoad, in the romantic gorge of the 
Arakawa, a torrent forcing its way 
between gaunt granite walls, with 
pines and other trees and flowering 
shrubs perched on every ledge of 
the lofty rocks. The valley widens 
out at Ikari, a hamlet 10 cho below 
Mitake, and thenceforward the 
scenery becomes less wild. The 
vill. of Mitake has several decent 
inns, Daikoku-ya best. Specimens 
of rock crystal are sold in the 
village, being brought from mines 
in the neighbourhood of Kurobera 
on the way to Kimpu-zan. As for 
the temples, once so magnificent 
and still far-famed, modern Shinto 
iconoclasm, abetted by neglect and 
scarcity of funds, has wrought sad 
havoc ; but their site, and the grove 
of giant trees that shades them, 
still remain impressive. The 
yearly festival at Mitake is held on 
the 10th to 15th of the 3rd moon, 
old style, when azaleas and kerria- 
blossoms adorn the scene. 

On returning, one should take 
the Gedb, or Lower Eoad, which 
offers beautiful contrasts of upland 
and forest scenery with that of 
rocks inferior only to those of 
the Arakawa gorge. Shirane-san, 
Koma-ga-take, Fuji, and numerous 
other mountains are seen to great 
advantage. 

An alternative way to Mitake 
leads by the vill. of Wada, 10 cho 
out of Kofu, whence walk. 

Kimpu-zan. The climb up and 
down this granite mountain, 8,300 
ft. high, might be accomplished in 
one long day from Mitake by 
making a very early start. But it is 
better to avail oneself of the rough 
quarters at the vill. of Kami- 
Kurobera, or at the pilgrim hut of 
Muro, 2\ hrs. further on, where the 
real climb begins at a height of 
6,550 ft. It is 1\ hr. hence to the 



276 



Route 30. — Ways to and from Kqfu. 



summit, just below which stands 
another good hut, the way leading 
over a granite buttress. At two 
places, ladders are fixed to assist 
the climber over difficult gaps, and 
at two others, chains give additional 
• security ; but even without the help 
of these, there would be no danger. 
The top is crowned by a huge 
turret-like mass of granite, rising 
to a height of some 50 ft., and 
forming a landmark by which the 
mountain can be recognised at a 
great distance. The extensive 
view includes Asama-yama on the 
N., Yatsu-ga-take almost due W., 
Fuji to the S., and the lofty moun- 
tain range on the western boundary 
of the province of Koshu. 



3. — Feom Toky5 to Koftj by the 
Valley of the Tamagawa. 

This rarely traversed but pretty 
route is much to be recommended 
in the spring-time, when the wild 
cherry, Pyrus japonica, azalea, and 
other trees and bushes are in flower. 
Kofu can be reached by it in 2} 
days. Fair accommodation isjto be 
had at Kochi-no-yu and at Ofuji; 
elsewhere it is poor. Train across 
the plain of T5kyo from Shinjiku 
Junction in about 3 hrs. to Hinata 
Wada, changing cars at Tachikawa 
Jet. and from the other end at 
Enzan, near Ofuji, (see p. 277) ; the 
rest of the journey must be per- 
formed on foot. 

Itinerary by road. 

(distances approximate) 

HINATA WADA to:— Bi M. 

Sawai 2 5 

Kotaba 3J 3| 

Hikawa 2 5 

K6chi-no-yu (Yuba) ... 3 7 J 

Kamozawa 2 5 

Tabayama 2 J 6|- 

Ochiai 3J 8£ 

Yanagizawa-toge 1 2 J 



Ofuji 3 7i 

Kusakabe 1£ 3f 

Hirashina 1 2J 

Satogaki 2 5 

KOFU 1 2| 

Total 26 63| 



For the first portion of this 
journey see p. 141. 

6me (Inn, Sakanoe) consists of a 
single long street lined with old 
gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape 
myrtle, and pines, which give it a 
pleasing aspect. Kompira-san, the 
small hill rising directly behind 
the station, commands a fine view 
of the plain with the Tamagawa 
running through it. On leaving 
this town, the road at once enters 
the Valley of the Tamagawa, ascend- 
ing along its 1. bank. The valley 
is here rather wide and well- 
cultivated. Passing through the 
peach orchards of Mitamura, the 
bridge at the entrance of 

Sawai (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is 
crossed, beyond which place the 
valley contracts and winds, and 
the hills on either side increase in 
height, while in front rises the 
triple summit of Mitake(see p. 141), 

Kotaba is the highest point 
from which rafts descend the river. 
Further up, single logs are thrown 
into the water and left to float 
down with the current. The sce- 
nery continues charming ; the path 
constantly ascends and descends, 
sometimes rising to a great eleva- 
tion above the stream. Maize, 
millet, and potatoes constitute the 
chief crops grown in the district. 
Passing through a cryptomeria 
grove, we cross the Mppara-gawa, 
and reach the vill. of 

Hikawa ( Inn, Hikawa-ya). 

At this place, and elsewhere in the 
valley, may be observed bevelled water- 
wheels, used where the bank is too high 
for the ordinary undershot wheel. The 
floats are small and placed wide apart, 
and the axle is inclined at an angle in 
order to admit of the wheel dipping into 
the stream. 



Rapids of the Fujikawa. 



277 



Three ri up the valley of the 
Nippara-gawa are some remarkable 
caves in the limestone rock. The 
next stage beyond Hikawa is 
extremely picturesque. Below the 
path, which winds up and down 
the flank of the mountain, the 
stream dashes along a rocky chan- 
nel; while above, on either hand, 
rise steep hills, mostly covered with 
timber, but wherever the exposure 
is favourable, cultivated up to the 
highest possible liruit. 

K6chi-nc-yu (Inn, Tsuri-ya), 
3,350 ft. above the sea, possesses 
tepid sulphur springs. Half a mile 
further we cross a tributary stream 
to the vill. of Kochi, and pass in 
succession through Mugiyama and 
Kaicano to Kamozawa which stands 
in a striking situation on the 
hillside. From a point a short 
distance beyond, the road winds up 
the side of a magnificent wooded 
gorge for 4 or 5 miles, the river 
flowing away below, shut out by the 
shade of deciduous trees. At last 
we come in sight of the spacious 
upland valley in which he 

Tabayama [Inn, Mori-ya), 2,000 
ft. above the sea, and one or two 
other hamlets. Beyond this, the 
scenery becomes even more re- 
markable. Striking views of deep 
ravines and rocky precipices occur 
a short way above Tabayama, 
where grey, fir- clad cliffs tower up 
to a height of over 2,000 ft. from 
the river-bed. But the grandest 
prospect of all is about 1? m. 
below Ochiai, where the road winds 
round the face of a lofty precipice 
commanding a view up a densely 
wooded gorge. From this point to 
Ochiai, which is a mere cluster 
of huts, and for 1 ri further to the 
top of the Yanagimwa-tdge (4,600 
ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs. 
The top of the pass affords a fine 
view of Fuji rising above an inter- 
vening range of mountains. De- 
scending on the Kofu side, the road 
follows the course of the Omogawa 
to the vill. of Kamikane. Here, 
for the first time, the great range 



dividing the provinces of Koshu 
and Shinshu opens out in full view. 
The chief peaks from r. to 1. are 
Koma-ga-take, H6-o-zan, and Jizd- 
dake, with the triple peaks of 
Shirane-san behind, all rising 
beyond a nearer and lesser chain. 
From 

Ofuji (Inn, Fuji-ya) jinrikishas 
can be taken to the railway at 
Enzan (Inn, Koyo-kwan), 20 cho 
distant, which possesses a cold salt 
spring. Should trains not serve, 
there is a good basha road across 
the plain into Kofu. 

4. — Feom Kofu down the Rapids 

of the Fujikawa to Minobu 

and the t6kaido. 

This beautiful trip is recommend- 
ed alike for its scenery throughout, 
and for the artistic triumphs of 
Minobu. 

A tramcar (4 ri 26 chb) takes one 
in from 2 to 2 J hrs. across the 
mountain-girt plain from Kofu to 

Eajika-zawa(J/27k?,Fusui-kwan; 
Yorozu-ya), where one embarks 
for the descent of the Rapids of 
the Fujikawa. The charge is 6J 
yen for a private boat (kai-kiri) with 
four men, weather being favour- 
able ; seat in post or passenger boat 
(yfibin-bune or jikan-bune) 50 sen, 
or 1 yen for reserved place. From 
Tambara the price is 6 yen. An 
extra charge of 2 yen is made if a 
night's halt be made at Minobu. 
Bemember that prices have a con- 
stant tendency to rise. With the 
river in its ordinary state, the times 
taken are as follows : — 

KAJIKA-ZAWA to :— Hours. 

Yoka-ichiba 1£ 

Hakii 3 

Nambu lj 

IWABUCHI 3§ 

Total 7i 

In flood-time, police regulations 
prohibit all boats from starting till 
the water falls to a certain level. 



278 



Uoute 30. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



In such circumstances of unavoid- 
able delay, the time may be spent 
in visiting the fine temple of Myb- 
hoji at Komuro, about 1 ri W. of 
Kajika-zawa; or a small sheet of 
water called Lake Shibiri, 3 ri 
distant, popularly believed to be 
tenanted by a demon (nushi), who 
permits neither boat nor human 
being to disturb the water. 

There is considerable traffic on 
the Fujikawa, some 500 boats being 
engaged in it besides numerous 
rafts ; and as we drop swiftly down, 
we meet boat after boat towed up by 
coolies bending double over their 
toilsome task. Placid at first, the 
river flows between green hills inter- 
sected by valleys that disclose glimp- 
ses of the Shirane range, Yatsu-ga- 
take, and other distant mountains. 
Opposite the confluence of the Ha- 
yakawa, there juts out 1. a remark- 
able rock called Bydbu-iwa ; and 
here the river, whose course has 
already been interrupted by several 
rapids, becomes larger and the 
current swifter. Fuji's snow-cover- 
ed cone first comes in view ahead 
below Manzawa, where the stream 
turns northward for a short time. 
The biggest rapid occurs not far 
from where the river divides, and 
where on the 1. bank stands the 
celebrated Tsuri-bashi, or "Hanging 
Bridge," which joins an islet to the 
mainland, and is worth stopping to 



Formerly this bridge was suspended to 
precipitous rocks on either side by means 
of stout ropes of bamboos split and 
twisted together, and consisted of small 
bundles of split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. 
long, lashed close together and support- 
ing a single row of planks laid along the 
middle as a pathway. It had no hand-rail. 
It used to be renewed every autumn. 
Since 1897, the bamboo roping has been 
replaced by telegraph wire, and a low 
hand-rail has been added. The bridge, a 
type of many scattered over the wilder 
regions of Central Japan, has a single 
span and is altogether 165 ft. long, its 
height in the centre being about 26 ft., 
and at the bank 35 ft. The whole struc- 
ture shakes and sways considerably, 
though there is no real danger. 

Another primitive kind of bridge, 
called Alannen-bashi, may sometimes be 



met with in this part of the country. It 
consists of a long piece of timber, which 
is simply tied at the end to projecting 
supports, such as are used in the hanging 
bridge. The Japanese name is a hyper- 
bole signifying "Bridge of a Myriad 
Years." 

Immediately after passing it, Fuji 
again towers up grandly to the 1. 
and then the river Shiba-kawa from 
Shira-ito waterfall (p. 170) falls in 
also 1. On nearing Matsuno, some 
interesting hexagonal andesite col- 
umns will be noticed on the r. bank. 
The current remains strong, and 
small rapids occur from time to 
time, the whole way to the river's 
mouth at 

Iwabuchi. Here the boat is 
taken along the canal to the land- 
ing-place close by the railway sta- 
tion (Inn, Tani-ya), which stands f 
mile from the old town. 

On the way down the river, those 
with an extra day to spare should 
not fail to visit Minobu. This 
entails leaving the boat at Hakii, 
where it is rejoined next day, the 
walk from the river to the vill. of 
Minobu occupying £- hr. 

Minobu (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Tama- 
ya) consists of a single hilly street, 
lined with shops for the sale of 
rosaries. It is prettily situated in 
a valley surrounded by mountains 
still fairly well- wooded, among the 
most prominent being Oku-no-in 
which rises immediately behind the 
temples, and Shichimen-zan at the 
head of the valley. 

The village owes its existence to the 
great Temple of Kuenji, founded in the 
13th century by the celebrated Buddhist 
saint, Nichiren (see p. 80), a portion of 
whose body is here enshrined. This 
temple is the headquarters of the Nichi- 
ren sect, and the new temples erected to 
replace the former buildings destroyed 
by fire in 1875, are choice specimens of 
Buddhistic architecture. The chief an- 
nual festival takes place on the 12th and 
13th days of the loth moon, old style 
(some time in November). There is an- 
other great festival in the month of May. 
— A donation is expected from visitors 
either on arrival or departure. 



Temple of Minobu. 



279 



The traveller enters the grounds 
through a massive gate of keyaki 
wood, finished in 1906, whence 
either a very steep flight of steps — 
the Otoko-zaka — or a more gently 
inclined slope— the Onna-zaka — 
may be ascended to the actual 
temples. On reaching the top of 
the steps, and passing r. the belfry, 
1. the double-roofed little Nbkotsu- 
db — a receptacle for believers' bones 
— the traveller will find himself in 
front of the Founder's Temple 
(Kaisan-do), from which a set of 
galleries leads to the Temple of the 
True Bones (Shinkotsu-db), to the 
Shaka-db which is hung round with 
pictures, to the Temple of the 
Posthumous Tablets (Ihai-db), con- 
taining the tablets of aristocratic 
believers, to the Pilgrims' Resting- 
place ( Ky a ku-den), to the Eeception 
Rooms (Tairaen-jb), and finally 1. to 
the residence of the archbishop ( 
Ima) and r. to the business offices 
of the sect [Jimusho). The interior 
dimensions of the main hall of the 
Founder's Temple are , length 75 
ft., depth 120 ft., height 26 ft. from 
floor to ceiling, while the altar is 
24 ft. long by 15 ft. in depth. 
The porch has carvings of dragons, 
storks, birds flitting over the waves 
of the sea, and tortoises swimming 
through it. The ventilating panels 
over the grated doors contain angels 
and phoenixes brightly painted. 
The framework of the building 
and the pillars which support the 
ceiling are lacquered red and black, 
producing a noble effect. In the 
centre of the nave (gejin), hangs a 
magnificent gilt baldachin,_ pre- 
sented by the merchants of Osaka. 
Gilded pillars mark off the space in 
front of the main altar, which is 
lacquered red and decorated with 
gilt carvings of lions and peonies. 
The two porcelain lanterns about 
8 ft. high, in front of the altar, 
are from the famous potteries of 
Hizen. The handsomely carved 
and gilded shrine contains a good 
life-size effigy of Nichiren, presented 
by the inhabitants of Tokyo. The 



coffered ceiling of the chancel 
(naijin) is plainly gilt, while the 
part of it immediately over the 
altar has gilt dragons, touched up 
with red on a gilt ground. To the 
wall behind the altar are affixed 
modern paintings of Rakan. The 
colours of the square brackets in 
the cornices are green, blue, red, and 
chocolate, often with an outline in 
white or a lighter shade of the 
principal colour, and gold arabes- 
ques on the flat surfaces. The 
priests will display the image en- 
shrined on the altar and perform a 
short service (kaichb) in its honour. 
The gem of Minobu, however, 
is the Temple of the True Bones, 
completed in 1880, where the lover 
of Oriental decorative art will 
find still quite fresh all those 
beauties which, in most of the re- 
ligious edifices of Japan, have al- 
ready been tarnished by the hand 
of time. The exterior is unpre- 
tentious ; but on entering the ora- 
tory, the visitor should observe the 
lifelike paintings of cranes on the 
ceiling. A plain gallery leads hence 
to the sanctum sanctorum, where 
Kichiren's remains are enshrined. 
It is a small octagonal building, 
elaborately decorated and all ablaze 
with gold and colours. Round the 
walls, on a gold ground, are full- 
sized representations of the white 
lotus-flower, the emblem of purity 
and of the Buddhist faith. The 
horizonal beams above have colour- 
ed diapers and geometrical patterns, 
the brilliant effect of which is toned 
down by the black, mixed with 
gold, of the rafters. Black and 
gold are likewise the colours 
used in the ceiling, which is se- 
cured by admirably worked metal 
fastenings. In the ramma are 
carvings of the Sixteen Rakan, and 
on the doors are paintings of mu- 
sical instruments. Bright individ- 
ually as are the many colours in 
this temple, all are so cunningly 
blended and harmonised that the 
general effect is one of exceeding 
softness and richness. The shrine 



280 



Route 30. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



(hbtb), which was presented by the 
faithful of the province of Owari, is 
of gold lacquer and shaped like a 
two-storied pagoda. In it rests the 
crystal reliquary or casket contain- 
ing the bones of Nichiren, which is 
in the shape of a tiny octagonal 
pogoda, standing on a base of 
silver formed of an upturned lotus- 
blossom, which itself rests on a 
reversed lotus of jade. Its frame- 
work is of the alloy called shakudo, 
and one of the pillars bears, in 
silver damascening, the date of A.D. 
1580. The other pillars are dec- 
orated with silver tracery attached 
to the surface of the shakudo. The 
top is hung with strings of coral, 
pearls, and glass beads. The height 
of the whole is a little over 2 ft. 
Above hangs a baldachin presented 
by the inhabitants of Nagasaki. 
The only European innovation is 
the introduction of glass windows, 
which permit of a better examina- 
tion of the building than is general- 
ly obtainable in the " dim religious 
light" of Japanese sacred edifices. 
The room in the archbishop's 
residence where he receives the 
faithful, is a beautiful specimen of 
Japanese house decoration in the old 
style. Note the exquisite modern 
open-work carvings of cranes and 
wild-geese, and the fine paintings 
by Kano Motonobu in the alcoves 
of the Reception Rooms. 

The ascent to the Oku-no-in winds 
up Ue-no-yama, the hill imme- 
diately behind the Founder's Tem- 
ple, and is an easy climb of 50 chb. 
After passing the small temple of 
Sanko-do, the road ascends through 
a forest of cryptomerias, and near 
the summit commands an extensive 
view, including Fuji, part of the 
Gulf of Suruga, and the peninsula 
of Izu. On the top stands a plain 
little temple dedicated to Nichiren, 
whose crest of orange-blossom is 
prominent on various objects within 
the enclosure. 

A spare day at Minobu may be de- 
voted to the ascent of Shichimen- 
z an, whose summit is not quite 5 



ri distant. The best place to halt 
on the way is Akasawa (Inns, Edo- 
ya, Osaka-ya), 3 ri 2 chb from 
Minobu. There is a good path all 
the way up. The last 50 chb are 
marked by stone lanterns, number- 
ed from 1 to 50. No. 36 affords the 
best view, which includes the full 
sweep of Suruga Bay, with the 
peninsula of Izu stretching far out 
to sea, a magnificent prospect of 
Fuji, the fertile plain of Kofu inter- 
sected by the various streams that 
unite to form the Fujikawa, the 
valley of the Hayakawa below to the 
1., beyond which are seen Shirane- 
san and the Koma-ga-take of Koshu, 
while Yatsu-ga-take, Kimpu-zan, 
and distant ranges bound the pros- 
pect on the N. At the top, which 
the forest deprives of all view, 
stands a plain building dedicated 
to the goddess of the mountain. 

According to the legend, as Nichiren 
was one day preaching in the open air at 
Minobu, a "beautiful woman suddenly 
made her appearance, and greatly excited 
the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichi- 
ren bidding her assume her true form, 
she explained that she dwelt among the 
mountains to the west, and that seated 
on one of the eight points of the compass, 
she dispensed blessings to the other 
seven. She then begged for water, which 
was given to her in a vase, and at once 
the beautiful woman was transformed 
into a serpent twenty feet long, covered 
with golden scales and armed with iron 
teeth. A terrible blast swept down from 
the mountains, and she disappeared in a 
whirlwind towards the point of the com- 
pass indicated. The words ' • seven points- 
of-the-compass " (shichi-men) also mean 
"seven faces;" and by an equivoque the 
popular belief has arisen that a serpent 
with seven heads had appeared to the 
saint, whom he deified under the name 
of Shichi-men Daimybjin. Buddhist 
writers identify her with Srimahadeva, 
the god of lucky omen, another name for 
the Hindu god Siva. 

From Minobu, and even from 
Kajika-zawa, a road mostly by the 
river bank practicable for jinriki- 
shas may be availed of in case of 
flood. It passes through Nambu 
(Inn, Nii-ya) and Manzawa, and 
reaches the Tokaido Railway at 
Iwabuchi (p. 230). The distance 



Kofu- Suwa- Shiojiri Railway. 



281 



from Minobu to Nambu is 3 ri, 
thence on to the Tokaido 10 ri, 
making 13 ri in all. 

Another way from Minobu to the 
Tokaido, also 13 ri and feasible for 
jinrikishas, leads via Nambu, Shi- 
shihara, and Ojima, oyer the Hira- 
yama-toge to Okitsu, two stations 
further west. 



-From Kofu to Lake Suwa 
and Shiojiei. 



Distance 
from Kofu. 


Names of Stations. 




KOFU 


2f m. 
8i 


Eyuo 
Nirazaki 


15| 


Hinobaru 


23J 


Kobuchi-zawa 


29} 
32f 

37^ 


Fujimi 

Aoyagi 
Chino 


41} 


KAMI-SUWA 


44 


SHIMO-SUWA 


46 
51| 


Okaya 
Tatsuno 


57 


Ono 


63} 


SffiOJTPJ Jet. 



This railway is a continuation of the 
line from Tokyo, described on pp. 273-4 
and affords splendid mountain view3. It 
follows the low hills on the 1. bank of 
the Kamanashi-gawa until these merge 
into the gentle slopes of Yatsu-ga-take, 
and the water-shed is reached at a height 
of 3,136 ft. Thence it drops into the less 
picturesque valley of the Miyagawa, 
through which ran the old Koshu Kaido, 
or main road between the provinces of 
Koshu and Shinshu. 

The Shiogawa, an affluent of the 
Fujikawa, is crossed just before 
entering 

Nirazaki (Inn, Ebisu-ya), 
whence the line begins to climb the 
hills. At various points splendid 
views are obtained 1. of the lofty 
range of which K6-5-zan and the 
Koshu Koma-ga-take are the princi- 
pal features, — the former recognis- 
able by a knob at the top, the latter 



higher and more pointed, both of 
them grand jagged masses of 
granite. Further on, Yatsu-ga-take 
appears to the r., while on looking 
back, Fuji towers in the sky. 
From Hinobaru station (Inn, 
Nishio-kwan), the whole sweep of 
the precipitous rocky mass 1. is seen 
to rare advantage, with Kimpu-zan 
and other high mountains away to 
the N.E. The vill. of Dai-ga-hara 
(Inn, Take-ya), whence the ascent 
of Koma-ga-take can best be made 
(p. 288), lies 1 ri 15 cho from this 
station. So far the pretty valley of 
the Kamanashi-gawa lies mostly 
out of sight; but glimpses are 
obtained of its affluent, the Nigori- 
gawa, whose dazzlingly white bed 
is formed of granite dust washed 
down from Koma-ga-take. The 
other rivers hereabouts show the 
same characteristic, but not so 
strongly. One of the peaks of 
Shirane now looms above the nearer 
range between H6-6-zan and Koma- 
ga-take. At Kobuchi-zawa (Inn, 
Kami-ya), the line skirts the lower 
slopes of Yatsu-ga-take, and at Fu- 
jimi (Inn, Ofujimi-kwan), attains its 
highest elevation. On approaching 
Lake Suwa, the mountains on the 
borders of Hida come into view, the 
most conspicuous summits being 
Hodaka and Yari-ga-take. The lofty 
mountain in the distance to the 1. 
of the lake is the Shinshu Koma-ga- 
take. Observe the numerous tiny 
wind-mills in the rice-fields, em- 
ployed to pump up water. 

Kami-Suwa (Inns, Nuno-han, 
Suwa Hotel, Kogetsu-kwan, each 
with private hot spring) is a busy 
town on the margin of the lake. 

This lake, almost circular in form, is 
said to be 35 ft. deep, but is slowly filling 
up. Its present diameter is about 2£ 
miles, its height above the sea, 2,660 ft. 
It freezes over most winters so solidly 
that heavily laden pack-horses can cross 
it ; but the inhabitants do not ven- 
ture upon the ice until it has cracked 
across, believing this to be a sign from 
heaven. Some attribute the cracking to 
the foxes. The fishermen make holes in 
the ice through which they insert their 
nets and manage to take a considerable 



282 



Route 30. — Ways to and from Kofu. 



quantity of fish, especially carp. The 
lake has become a skating resort since 
1906.— From the W. side of Lake Suwa 
issues the Tenryu-gawa, which flows into 
the sea near Hamamatsu on the Tokaido. 

About 1 J ri to the S.E. stands the 
IcM no Miya, or chief Shinto temple 
of the province of Shinshu, which 
contains some excellent wood- 
carvings. The annual festival is 
held on the 15th April, when the 
inns are apt to be overcrowded. 

The small temple of Tenaga Jinja, 
just above the main street, com- 
mands a fine panorama of the lake 
and of the villages around its 
shores. But a still wider prospect, 
embracing most of the mountains 
already mentioned, can be gained 
on the way up to Karasawa-dera, 
a temple picturesquely situated at 
the top of one of the small valleys 
N.E. of the town amongst rocks 
and pines and flowering trees. 
The climb will take 45 min. The 
main temple, dating from the 16th 
century, contains the funeral tab- 
lets of local worthies. Perched 
above it is a shrine to Kwannon, 
cut out of the rocky cliff, and con- 
taining tiny images of that deity. 

For an excursion on the lake, one 
might take boat to Osaka, on the 
S.VY. shore, 1} hr., where there is 
another temple to Kwannon. 

The line now skirts the N.E. 
shore of the lake to 

Shimo-Suwa (Inns, *Kiky5-ya; 
*Kame-ya, both with private 
springs). This place is noted for 
its hot springs, the principal of 
which, called Wata-no-yu, has a 
temperature of 113.9 E. Of the 
two other principal sources in the 
town, one called Ko-yu, which con- 
tains alum, has the high tempera- 
ture of 145°.4; the other, called 
Tanga-yu, has a temperature of 
114°.8. 

Two great Shinto shrines, called 
respectively Aki-no-Miya (Autumn 
Temple) and Haru-no-Miya (Spring 
Temple), — the former situated near 



the inns, the latter on the W. 
outskirts, 8 cho distant, — have long 
been celebrated, but are now much 
decayed. The wings on each side 
of the Aki-no-Miya contain some 
curious ex-votos. 

These shrines derive their appellations 
from the fact that the divinities there 
worshipped are believed to change their 
abode from one to the other according to 
the season, moving into the Haru-no- 
Miya on the 1st February, and into the 
Aki-no-Miya on the 1st August, on each 
of which occasions a procession takes 
place. The god and goddess worshipped 
are named respectively Take-mina-gata- 
tome-no-Mikoto and Mai-no-yasaka-tome- 
no-Mikoto. 

The silk industry of the neigh- 
bourhood has developed, of late 
years, by leaps and bounds, most 
of the filatures clustering about the 
next station Okay a, where the 
Tenryu-gawa, flowing from the lake, 
supplies the necessary motive 
power. The employees are mostly 
girls and women. Quinces, which 
ripen in October, are produced in 
abundance. Wild cats with long 
tails inhabit this district, notice- 
ably different from the short-tailed 
cat of E. Japan. 

[A cross-country road about 13 ri, 
for pedestrians (or basha for part 
of the way) leads hence east- 
wards over the Wada-toge, the 
highest pass on the Nakasendo, 
5,300 ft. above sea-level, the 
old road over which from Nishi 
Mochiya commands a splendid 
mountain view. 

Accommodation at Wada, 
Nagakubo, and Oya, this last 
a station on the railway, 1J hr. 
from the summer resort of 
Karuizawa.] 

Tatsuno [Inn, Ivlinowa-ya) is the 
station for travellers to alight, who 
are bound for the Rapids of the 
Tenryu-gawa (see Route 33). 
Thence through hills, partly tun- 
nelled, to 

Shiojiri Jet. (see Route 28). 



Tlie Mikasa-tdge. 



283 



6. — From K5fu oyer the Misaea- 
t5ge to Yoshida and Gotemba. 

Itinerary. 

EOFUto:— Bi Cho M. 

Isawa 1 23 4 

Kami Kurogoma . . . 2 8 5^- 

Tonoki 1 26 4J 

Kawaguchi 2 10 5 J 

Funatsu 18 3^ 

YOSHIDA 1 1 2J 

Total 10 4 24J 



whence tram to Gotemba (see p. 
168). 

Time required, 2 days, stopping 
at Yoshida the first night. Yoko- 
hama may easily be reached by 
train from Gotemba on the evening 
of the second day; or else good 
walkers might cross over the 
Otome-toge to Miyanoshita. 

JinriMshas should be taken to 
Tonoki-Shinden, whence walk. At 
Isawa the road turns off to the r., 
and soon follows up a narrow 
valley. From Kami Kurogoma it 
rises rapidly to Tdnoki, 3,200 ft. 
above the sea. It then ascends for 
about 1 hr. through the forest to 
the summit of the Misaka-toge, 
which is 5,120 ft. above the 
sea. The view of Fuji from this 
point, as it rises from Lake Kawa- 
guchi, is justly celebrated. Below 
is the vill. of Kawaguchi; on the 
opposite side of the lake are Funatsu 
and Kodachi; further S. is Lake 
Yamanaka. The prospect looking 
back towards the N. and W. includes 
Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, Koma- 
ga-take, Jizo-dake, and in the plain 
below, the vill. of Isawa. It is 1 hr. 
descent down the bare hillside to 
Kawaguchi, a poor vill. lying near 
the lake. Boats can be procured 
from here to Funatsu (about \ hr.), 
or else one may follow the road 
skirting the lake. From Funatsu 
to Yoshida, and on to Subashiri 
and Gotemba the road traverses the 
moor which forms the base of Fuji. 



7. — From Karuizawa to Eofu by 
the Hirasawa-Daimon-toge. 

Train to Jliyoda in J hr., whence 
by the following Itinerary : — ■ 

MIYODAto:— JRi Cho II 

Iwamurata 2 23 6 J 

Usuda 2 16 6 

Takano-machi 1 6 2f 

Toyosato 2 7 5J 

Umijiri 1 21 4 

Umi-no-kuchi 1 10 3 

Hirasawa 3 7 7| 

Tsugane 3 14 S\ 

Wakamiko 1 30 4J 

Hinobaru 26 If 

Total 20 16 50 



whence rail to Kofu in IJ hr. 

This route is not recommended, 
except to those bent on mountain 
climbing. Exclusive of such 
climbing, the journey will occupy 
2 days, basha being available 
between Miyoda and Umijiri. The 
rest must be done on foot. The 
best accommodation is at Umi-no- 
Kuchi (Kaijo-kwan), and at Hino- 
baru station (Nishio-kwan). The 
scenery is mediocre, though the 
Chikuma-gawa, whose upper course 
is followed for many miles, has 
some fine cliffs. The actual pass is 
an easy climb. Its name of Hira- 
sawa-Daimon-toge serves to dis- 
tinguish it from another Daimon- 
toge further west. 

The hamlet of Hata, near Takano- 
machi, is the best place from which 
to ascend Tateshina-yama. This 
expedition requires the whole of a 
long day, but the climber is 
rewarded by an extensive view. 

From Umijiri, at the end of the 
Iwasaki gorge, one may go up to 
the Honzawa baths (3 ri), situated at 
a height of 3,200 ft. above Umijiri. 
The summit of the Honzawa pass, 
some 40 min. walk beyond the 
Honzawa baths, is 7,400 ft. above 
the sea. 



284 



Route 31. — Valley of the Hayakawa. 



[It is possible to -visit Mitake p. 
275) by leaving tlie main 
road a little beyond Umi-no- 
kuehi and going to Hara (2 J ri), 
where there is a small inn. 
Thence a mountain path leads 
through the hamlets of Kuro- 
mori and Hinata, and over the 
O-toge to Mitake (11 ri). The 
accommodation between Hara 
and Mitake is very poor, but the 
route affords some fine views. 
A guide is needed.] 

Honzawa (fair inn) makes the 
best starting-point for the ascent of 
the three peaks, Mikaburi, Yoko-o- 
dake, and Akadake, known under the 
collective name of Yatsu-ga-take. 
The expedition there and back 
takes a day. Leaving Honzawa, 
one first walks up to the top of the 
pass just mentioned, whence it is 
an easy climb southwards of f hr. 
to the summit of Mikaburi-yama. 
From here the way leads up and 
down for about 4 hrs., via the sharp 
broken ridge of Yoko-o-dake, to 
the highest summit, Akadake 
(9,150 ft.) A steady head is neces- 
sary in some places. Alpine plants 
abound. The view includes the 
whole of the Hida-Shinshu range, 
amongst which Yari-ga-take is con- 
spicuous to the N.W., Fuji is seen 
towering aloft S. by E., the Koshu 
Koma-ga-take S.W. by S., Shirane 
a little to its S., H5-5-zan S.S.W., 
distinguished by the monumental 
pile of rocks at its summit, and 
Kimpu-zan S.E. by E. 

An alternative, on leaving Hon- 
zawa, for those bound for Lake 
Suwa is to go down to Chino (see 
p. 281) on the railway, — a pleasant 
walk of about 6 J ri. 



EOUTE 31. 



Valley of the Hayakawa. 

Itinerary. 

MINOBU to:— Ri Clio M. 

Akasawa 3 — 7 J- 

Goka-mura 2 J — 6 

Kyo-ga-shima 2 — 5 

Hayakawa 1 — 2J 

Shimo Yujima 3| — 8J 

Narada... 2 — 5 

Ashiyasu 5 — 12J 

Arino 2 — 5 

Dodo 15 1 

Midai 10 f 

KOFU 2 — 5 

Total 23 25 58 



These distances are approximate. 

An alternative plan, for those 
starting from Shoji, is to go down 
the Fujikawa as far as the hamlet of 
Itomi (fair inn), near the confluence 
of that river with the Hayakawa, 
and join the above itinerary near 
Goka-mura, 3J ri from Itomi. 

This route is a rough one; for 
though so close to civilisation, 
the country through which it leads 
lies in the heart of the great moun- 
tain mass dividing Koshu from 
Shinshu and Suruga, and the 
roads are in much the same state 
as they were before railways were 
known or foreigners heard of. The 
journey can only be accomplished 
on foot, and one should travel as 
lightly as possible, for all baggage 
has to be carried by coolies, who are 
often difficult to obtain. There are 
fair inns at Homura and Kami 
Yujina. It is possible to combine 
with this trip the ascent of the 
Koshu Shirane-san and other lofty 
peaks, which form the subject of 
the next route. 

At Akasawa the path strikes r., 
in order to enter the valley of the 
Hayakawa, which it does near Go- 
ka-mura. A short way beyond this, 



Valley of the Hayakawa. 



285 



it descends to a pretty valley near 
the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the 
scenery is particularly striking. To 
the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly 
wooded and seen to much better 
advantage here than from Minobu. 
Directly opposite is the bold round 
summit of Amebata-yama, also 
called Zaru-ga-take, through the 
deep ravine to the 1. of which flows 
the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen 
the Hayakawa winding down the 
valley on the r., and forming an 
almost complete circle as it bends 
round a low wooded promontory, 
which from this point has the 
appearance of an island. The path 
now descends over a rough water- 
course to the bed of the river, and 
ascends the 1. bank to Kyo-ga- 
shima. Eight cho further on, it 
crosses the stream on a wire bridge 
with wire hand-rail to the hamlet of 
Homura, in whose neighbourhood a 
gold mine is worked. 

Beyond Homura, the path leads 
over one of the lower spurs of 
Daikoku-yama, and follows the steep 
side of the valley high above the 
stream. After passing the hamlet 
of Nishi-no-miya, the river is 
recrossed to 

Hayakawa,. Decent quarters 
may be obtained 1 mile further on 
at the house of the Soncho (Mayor) 
of Misato, the "three villages" of 
which Hayakawa is one. Gold is 
found in the neighbourhood, while 
plantations of the paper-tree and of 
tobacco line this part of the valley. 
Higher up, beyond the hamlet of 
Arakura, the scenery is charming. 
The river dashes along through a 
fine rocky glen, and is spanned by 
a wire bridge at a highly pictu- 
resque spot. After crossing this 
bridge, the road divides. The 
route to Narada turns to the r., and 
ascends a very steep hill for about 
1 ri, winds round its upper slope, 
and descends again to the river 
through wild and rugged scenery, 
before reaching the hamlet of Shimo 
Yujima. About 40 cho on, and a 
little way up the ravine to the r., 



lies the hot spring of Kami Yujima. 

Narada (no accommodation), the 
last inhabited place in the valley, 
consists of but a few households. 
It boasts " Seven Wonders " ( Nana 
Fushigi), amongst which are enu- 
merated a brackish pool, the waters 
of which are said to have the pro- 
perty of dyeing black any article of 
clothing left to steep in them for 
forty-eight hours, and a reed whose 
leaves grow only on one side of the 
stem. More interesting to the 
pedestrian than these village 
wonders will be the ascent of 
Shirane-san, for which see next 
page. 

The ordinary path from Narada 
to Ashiyasu winds up and down a 
succession of forest slopes, whose 
thick foliage almost entirely shuts 
out all view. Now and then, 
however, glimpses are caught of 
Shirane-san and of the valleys of 
the Arakawa and Norokawa. Fur- 
ther on the path divides, — r. to Kofu 
via Hira-bayashi, 1. to Kofu via 
Ashiyasu. The traveller is recom- 
mended to take the latter on 
account of its wild scenery. A 
portion of the way lies down a 
precipitous rocky ravine known as 
the Ide-zawa, where the gorge is 
in many places so narrow that its 
perpendicular sides seem almost to 
meet overhead. The path, after 
crossing the Narada-toge (5,120 ft.), 
descends by the side of a torrent, 
crossing and re- crossing it on 
trunks of trees, and being carried 
over clefts and landslips on bridges 
of primitive construction. 

Asiiiyasu, which stands on the 
1. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists 
of five hamlets named Kutsuzawa 
(the highest up the valley), Ozori, 
Kozori, Furu-yashiki, and Arakura 
lower down. Those who contem- 
plate making the ascent of Ho-o-zan 
or of Kaigane should stay at Kozori. 



286 Route 32. — Mountains between the Fujikawa and Tenryu. 



ROUTE 32. 



The Mountains between the Fuji- 
kawa AND THE TeNRYU-GAWA. 

1. SHIRANE-SAN (NODORI, AI-NO-TAKE, 
KAIGANE). 2. HO-6-ZAN. 3. THE 
KOMA-GA-TAKE OE KOSHU. 4. AKA- 
ISHI-SAN. 

The great mountain mass to the 
W. of Kofu, lying between the 
valleys of the Fujikawa, Oigawa, 
and Tenryu-gawa, is only second in 
orographical importance to the 
Etchu-Hida mountains described in 
Boute 29. Climbing in this range 
involves no little hardship, for the 
reason stated in the introduction 
to the previous route, with which 
the greater part of this one may 
conveniently be combined. None 
but experienced mountaineers 
should attempt it. 

1. — Shirane-san (Koshu Shirane). 

In order to avoid confusion when 
arranging with peasant-guides and 
hunters, let it be understood that 
Shirane-san is not one individual 
peak, but a general name for the 
northern and more elevated portion 
of the range of which Nodori-san, 
Ai-no-take and Kaigane are the 
chief peaks. 

Narada (p. 285) is the starting- 
point for the ascent, — not that 
there is any regularly marked path 
thence to the top of the range, but 
that guides are there procurable 
who know the way up, and will 
carry whatever is necessary in the 
way of provisions and bedding. 
Those who purpose to ascend all of 
Shirane' s peaks must be prepared 
to sleep out three nights, and, tak- 
ing Nodori-san first, to cross on the 
fourth day from the base of Kaigane 
to the vill. of Ashiyasu. Nodori 
and Ai-no-take involve sleeping out 
two nights and descending on the 



third day, — likewise to Ashiyasu. 
There is a hut at the E. base of 
Kaigane , but none on the top of 
the range. Ai-no-take cannot be 
ascended direct from Narada; 
Nodori must first be climbed, and 
the track followed thence along the 
ridge. 

From Narada to the top of the 
ridge is a stiff climb of 9 hrs., fre- 
quent rests being needed by the 
guides who carry the baggage. The 
height is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or 
5,900 ft, above Narada, and snow 
often lies there as late as July. 
Once on the ridge, the rest of the 
ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first 
peak, nameless on the maps, is 
reached. Half an hour more brings 
us to the top of Nodori, 9,970 ft,, 
which commands much the same 
view as the previous summit, with 
the addition of Ai-no-take and 
Kaigane, the latter of which now 
comes in sight for the first time. 

From the summit of Nodori to 
that of Ai-no-take (10,260 ft.) 
takes 2 hrs. The top consists of 
bare rock ; but a little below, every 
sheltered nook has a patch of grass, 
gay with the flowers that inhabit 
higher altitudes. Ten min. below 
the summit on the E. side, is an 
excellent camping-place. The view 
from the highest point includes: 
Koma-ga-take a little to the E. of N., 
Kaigane N.N.E., Yatsu-ga-take just 
on the E. of Kaigane; Kimpu-zan 
N.E. by E., and Senjo-ga-take, a 
conical mountain on the 1. of the 
Norokawa, N. W. The source of 
this stream is perceived far down 
on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. 
In the far distance N. E. the 
Nikkd Shirane can be descried. 
Towards the S. and beyond Nodori- 
san, a long range of mountains is 
seen stretching down the frontier of 
Koshu, and getting gradually lower 
as it approaches Minobu. Fuji 
rises between S. E. and E. S. E., 
while Hd-d-zan and Jizo-ga-take on 
the one side, and Ontake, Norikura, 
and Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly 
clear on the other. The descent 



Kaigane. Ho~ o-zan. 



287 



from Ai-no-take to Ashiyasu is 
fatiguing as far as a stream some 
4,200 ft. above sea-level. This 
stream is the Arakawa, one of the 
sources of the Hayakawa. If the 
day is too far spent to allow of 
Ashiyasu being reached before 
nightfall, one may sleep at some 
wood-cutters' huts, 1J hr. before 
getting to that village. 

Kaigane (10,335 ft.) can best be 
ascended from Ashiyasu where good 
accommodation and hunters to act 
as guides can be obtained at the 
house of Natori Un-ichi, the Soncho 
of Kozori. A steep scramble 
of 5. hrs. takes one to the top of 
the Tsuetate-ioge (7,100 ft.), near 
which the route to H6-6-zan 
diverges to the right, and a still 
rougher descent of 3 hrs. more into 
the bed of the Norokawa. From 
here the river bed or bank is follow- 
ed for 3 hrs. to a woodcutters' 
shelter called Hirokawa Koya close 
to the E. base of Kaigane, on 
the E. side of the clear mountain 
torrent. Trout are abundant. 

The actual ascent of Kaigane 
begins after fording the Norokawa, 
and involves extremely rough work. 
For 4 or 5 hrs. a way is forced 
through the forest up a buttress at 
a steep angle over broken ground, 
often covered with fallen trees, until 
on reaching the N. ridge of the 
mountain we turn to the S., and 
after a climb of 1J or 2 hrs. along a 
narrow rocky arete we gain the 
summit. The view is magnificent, 
especially of the granite peaks of the 
Koshu Koma-ga-take range, E., and 
of the Eida-Shinshu peaks to the N. 
Yn\ A great variety of Alpine plants 
flourish on the summit ridge, and 
ptarmigan abound. 

[On returning to the shelter at 
the foot of Kaigane, there is a 
choice of routes. Ashiyasu 
may be regained either by the 
way just described, or directly 
down the bed of the Norokawa 
and its tributary, the Midai- 



gawa. Or else the same valley 
may be ascended northwards to 
a saddle west of Koma-ga-take, 
whence Takato in Shinshu may 
be reached. Some rude huts, 
resorted to by wood- cutters, 
afford the only shelter ; but the 
walk is very fine.]. 



2. — H6-6-ZAN. 

The ascent of H6-6-zan (9,554 
ft.), like that of Kaigane, is best 
made from Ashiyasu, the routes 
coinciding for the first 4 hrs., as far 
as the Tsuetate-toge (see above). 
The climber should spend the night 
at the woodcutters' huts at Omuro, 
some 2 hrs. beyond and above this 
toge, where shelter and water are to 
be found. From Omuro a scramble 
of 40 min. lands one on the main 
ridge at a point called Suna-harai or 
Kento-ga-take, whence the way 
leads along the ridge commanding 
magnificent views on either hand. 
From Suna-harai to Jizo-dake, the 
main point of the ridge, marked by 
a surveying station, it is an easy 
walk of about J hr., a descent down 
broken slopes and through a wood 
leading to a saddle from which rises 
the imposing peak of H6-6-zan. 
This consists of two gigantic col- 
umns of granite which lean against 
each other so as to form an obelisk 
some 60 ft. in height, springing 
from a steep and broken pedestal 
150 ft. above the saddle. To the 
base of the actual peak is a hard 
scramble. The peak itself was first 
scaled with the help of a rope by 
the Rev. Walter Weston in 1904. 
The view is singularly striking, 
seen as it is from a little platform 
on an isolated pinnacle 5 or 6 ft. 
square, surrounded by most of the 
loftiest peaks in Central Japan. 
The chief features are : Fuji to the 
S.E., Koma-ga-take and Senjo-ga- 
take to the N. W., and the great 
triple summits of Shirane-san to the 
W. and S.W. 



288 Route 32. — Mountains between the Fujikawa and Tenryu. 



3. — The Koma-ga-take of K6sh0. 

The vill. of Dai-ga-hara, 1 ri 15 
cho from Hinobaru station (p. 281), 
affords the best starting-point for 
this grand mountain, 9,843 ft. above 
sea-level. The distance to the top 
is called 7 ri, and will require 9 hrs., 
including halts. Pilgrims sleep in 
the open, where the Murodo hut 
formerly stood, at the foot of some 
cliffs called Byobu-iwa, 5 or 6 hrs. 
walk from Dai-ga-hara. Thence it 
is a steep but varied climb of about 
2 hrs. more to the summit. 

After leaving Dai-ga-hara, the 
way leads across a nearly level 
stretch of forest for 1 hr. to the 
shrine of Mae-miya, near the 1. bank 
of the Gjira-gawa, which is crossed 
by a small bridge where the actual 
ascent commences. Most of the 
way to Uma-dome, nearly 1J ri, is 
very steep; but the forest affords 
shade for a time. The track then 
continues for about 1 ri to the hut 
at Byobu-iwa, and on to a spot 
called Shichijo, where pilgrims 
sometimes bivouac, a little water 
being found near by. It is so 
narrow in places that chains and 
a ladder are fixed to the rocks to 
help climbers up. The final 1,300 
ft. are less steep. The magnificent 
view embraces all the loftiest peaks 
in Central Japan. 

It is possible to descend Koma- 
ga-take on the Shinshu side to Taka- 
to (see below) ; but the way down is 
extremely rough and will take a 
good climber about 10 hrs., includ- 
ing halts, to Kurokawa, the first 
vill. where accommodation is likely 
to be found, although at Todai (1J 
hr. short of it) there are several 
cottages known to hunters by the 
collective name of Sen-gen-yado. 

Rhododendrons grow in great 
quantities on Koma-ga-take. Du- 
ring the latter part of July, when 
the trees, which attain to a con- 
siderable size, are in full bloom, 
they impart a charming hue to the 
scene. 



4. — Akaishi-san. 

This, though one of the highest 
peaks of the range separating the 
valleys of the Tenryu and the Qi- 
gawa, is little known, because not 
visible from any of the ordinary 
lines of travel. It is best approach- 
ed from Takatb (Inn, Ikegami-ya), 
an important town situated in the 
valley of the Mabukawa, an affluent 
of the Tenryu. Takato can be 
reached either from Aoyagi station 
on the Kofu-Suwa railway (p. 281) 
from which village it is a pleasant 
walk of 3 ri 8 cho to Midbgaito (Inn, 
Echigo-ya), and then 3 J ri more to 
Takato; or else from Ina (p. 289), 2 
ri 23 cho. From Takatd the road 
leads due S. up the valley of the 
Mibukawa, affording good views of 
the W. side of the Koshu Koma-ga- 
take, and over the Ichinose-toge 
(4,450 ft.) to Onna-taka 

This hamlet is said to derive its name 
from the fact that the women are here 
the heads of the households. It is also 
stated that if a man from any other place 
marries a woman belonging to this ham- 
let, he is sure soon to droop and die. 

and Ichiba, which latter is recom- 
mended as a halting-place. Villages 
further on, where one may stay, are 
Okawara, Kamazawa, and the warm 
sulphur baths of Koshibu. 

The actual ascent takes 11 hrs. 
from Koshibu, being an arduous 
scramble, during the first part of 
which the Koshibu-gawa has to be 
crossed and re-crossed more than a 
score of times. This is followed by 
a hard climb of 2 hrs. or so up the 
steep tree- clad slopes of a spur of 
Akaishi-san, the ascent then lead- 
ing over bare loose rocks of a red- 
dish colour for 2 hrs. more to a 
point where it is necessary to turn 
and go straight up to the final 
arete. This is a moderate climb of 
1 hr., and another hour is needed 
to walk up to the highest point of 
the peak (10,145 ft.), which affords 
a fine view of most of the high 
mountains of Central Japan. A 



Route S3.— -Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa. 



289 



night has to be spent in what the 
hunter-guides call a grand cave, but 
is a bare shelter between two rocks. 
Water is not always easily found on 
the mountain side. About 1 m. 
from the summit is a hollow, where 
the climber who wishes to see the 
sunrise might sleep. 

Instead of returning to Takatd, it 
might be possible_to cross over into 
the valley of the Oigawa, and either 
descend to the T6kaid5, or strike 
the head- waters of the Hayakawa 
across another range (see p. 284) ; 
but the country is rough in the 
extreme. 



ROUTE 33. 

The Rapids of the Tensyu-gawa. 

These rapids, the finest in Japan, 
form a natural route connecting the 
Nakasendo and the Tokaido,— the 
two chief highways of the central 
portion of the Main Island. The 
village where one embarks is called 
Tokimata (Inn, Umeno-ya). It is 
reached from the E. by the Central 
Railway (Route 28) to Tat sum 
( Inn, Minowa-ya), thence by electric 
tram to Inamichi (12£ m.), from 
which place there is a regular motor 
car service to Iida (Inns, Sh5go-do, 
Ryushi-kwan ; Europ. restt., Tomoe- 
kwan), a large and flourishing town. 
The portion of the Ina Kaidd in- 
cluded in this route is by no means 
lacking in the picturesque. It also 
brings the traveller into the vicinity 
ol the Shinshu Koma-ga-take (p. 
272), which may be ascended from 
Akao or from Inamachi — Those 
coming from the W. may alight at 
Mldono station, for the vill. of 
Tsumago, 3 m. distant, whence 5 ri 
over the Odaira-toge to Odaira, on 
foot or in jinrikishas with 3 men, 
and 4 ri 32 cho more to Iida, by 
good road but with steep gradients. 



Itinerary. 

INAMACHI to:— Ri Cho If. 

Akao 3 21 8J 

Iijima 1 35 4| 

IIDA 6 13 15J 

TOKIMATA 2 15 6 



Total 



.14 12 35 



The best accommodation on the 
way is at Inamachi (Inn, Tomi-ya), 
and at Akao (Inn, *Koku-ya). The 
passage by boat from Tokimata 
down to the Tdkaidd generally 
occupies 12 hrs. Circumstances 
may render a break necessary. In 
this case, either Nishinoto (Inn, 
Koji-ya), or Futamata lower down, 
will do for a night's halting-place. 
The total distance travelled by 
water is estimated at 36 ri, say 90 
miles ; but the latter portion of this 
is along a comparatively sluggish 
current. The boat does not take 
the traveller actually to the Tokaido 
Railway. Whether bound up or 
down the line, he alights at Naka- 
no-machi, for the station of Hama- 
matsu, 1 ri 28 cho distant (see p. 
235). Some, however, prefer to a- 
light at Kajima higher up (about 5 ri 
from Hamamatsu by jinrikisha or 
basha), or else at Ikeda for the sta- 
tion of Naka-izumi, or to go on to the 
station of Tenryu-gawa ; but both 
these being small, the express does 
not stop at them, and the only trains 
which do stop have no first-class 
cars. If the traveller decide to 
land at Kajima, he should telegraph 
through the Boat Company to 
engage a basha. 

The charge for a boat when the 
river is in a normal state has oscil- 
lated during several years past 
between 45 and 50 yen, the justifi- 
cation of this high price being 
that from 10 to 12 days are re- 
quired to tow the boat up stream 
again. All traffic is prohibited 
when the river is in flood. Boats 
not being always in readiness, it 
may be advisable to write before- 
hand (in Japanese, of j course) to the 



290 



The Tenryu-gawa. 



innkeeper at ToMmata, to order one 
with 4 boatmen. Travellers are 
also recommended to time their 
movements so as to arrive at To- 
kimata on the afternoon previous 
to their descent of the rapids, which 
will enable them to make all ar- 
rangements overnight and to start 
not later than 6.30 a.m. A neces- 
sary stipulation is that the boat 
shall take one the whole way ; other- 
wise the men are apt to shirk the 
last part of the voyage, where the 
sluggish stream makes the work 
arduous, and endeavour to make the 
passengers land en route, where jin- 
rikishas may or may not be obtain- 
able. One should be prepared for 
disappointment in the event of con- 
tinued wet weather, when the river 
rises considerably. Nothing will 
induce the boatmen to undertake 
the journey if the water is above 
a certain height. Under such 
circumstances, the alternative road 
over the Odaira-toge, mentioned on 
p. 255, may be availed of to rejoin 
the Central Railway to Nagoya. 

A spare hour at Tokimata can be 
spent in visiting the picturesque 
bridge less than 1 ri down the 
river, at the spot where the rough- 
and-tumble part of its course 
begins. 

The scenery of the Tenryu-gawa 
is impressive. After passing the 
bridge mentioned above, the river 
enters a rocky ravine; and from 
this point on to Nishinoto — a pas- 
sage of some 6J hrs. — is almost one 
continued series of rapids and races. 
Walled in between mountains that 
rise abruptly to the height of from 
1,000 ft. to 2,000 ft,, the river twists 
and tears along their rocky base, 
carving for itself a channel where 
there seems no possible outlet. It 
is in such places that the skill of the 
boatmen will be most admired, 
where the boat, which looks as if it 
must be dashed to pieces in another 
moment, is shot round the corner, 
only to be whirled on to some new 
danger equally exciting, 



Mr. Percival Lowell thus describes the 
scene below Mitsushima, one of the 
hamlets on the bank :— " The river, its 
brief glimpse at civilization over, relapsed 
again into utter savagery. Bocks and 
trees, as wild apparently as their first 
forerunners there, walled us in on the 
sides, and appeared to do so at the ends, 
making exit seem an impossibility, and 
entrance to have been a dream. The 
stream gave short reaches, disclosing 
every few minutes, as it took us round a 
fresh turn, a new variation on the old 
theme. Then, as we glided straight our 
few hundred feet, the wall behind us rose 
higher and higher, stretching out at us 
as if to prevent our possible escape. We 
had thought it only a high cliff, and 
behold it was the whole mountain side 
that had stood barrier there." 

On approaching a rapid, the man 
forward strikes the bow of the boat 
with his paddle, both as a signal to 
the others and in the superstitious 
belief that it will bring good luck. 
Of rapids properly so-called, there 
are upwards of thirty, the finest of 
which_are: Yagura (the Turret), 
near Oshima; Shin-taki (New Cas- 
cade), 3 ri below Mitsu-shima; 
Takaze (HighKapid); Ghbna (Adze), 
just beyond Otani; Konnyaku (an 
edible root); Shiranami (White 
Wavers); Iori-ga-taki (Iori's Cas- 
cade); and Yama-buro (Mountain 
Bath), the grandest of all, despite 
its homely name. 



Route 34. — The Shrines of Ise. 



291 



KOUTE 34. 



The Shbines of Ise. 

1. preliminary information. 2. 
tokyo to yamada. 3. nara to 
yamada. 4. yamada and neigh- 
bourhood, the temples of ise. 
5. futami and toba [province 
OF SHIMA]. asama-yama. 

1. — Preliminary Information. 

Ise is the name, not of a town, but of 
a province lying to the E. and S. B. of 
Kyoto on the W. shore of Owari Bay. The 
tenroles, which rank highest among the 
holy places of the Shinto cult, stand on 
the outskirts of the town of Yamada, 
near the S. E. frontier of the province. 
It should be premised that the interest 
of the trip to Ise is chiefly antiquarian. 
Without going so far as to say, with a 
disappointed tourist, that " there is noth- 
ing to see, and they won't let you see it," 
we may remind intending travellers of 
the remarkable plainness of all Shinto 
architecture, and add that the venera- 
tion in which the shrines of Ise are held 
is such that none but priests and Imper- 
ial personages are allowed to penetrate 
into the interior. The rest of the world 
may go no further than the first enclos- 
ure, where visitors are nowadays called 
on to remove not only their hats but their 
overcoats. Photography is also prohibit- 
ed within the grounds. 

The ways of reaching Yamada are 
as follows : 

I. From T6ky5 by T6kaid5 Railway 
to Nagoya, 1st day. Thence by 
Kwansai Railway to Kameyama 
Junction, and on by Sangu Rail- 
way to Yamada, — 2nd day. Ex- 
press trains do the whole distance 
from Tokyo to Yamada in about 
13hrs. 

II. From Nara by Kwansai Railway 
to Kameyama, and on by Sangu 
Railway as in No. 1. This will 
take one day. 

m. From Kobe to Osaka, where 
drive across to Amijima station 
(20 min. with 2 men), and thence 
without change of car to Kamo 
Junction, after which as in No. 2. 
The section of the Kwansai line 



between Osaka and Kamo leads 
across the plain, through small 
places of no interest. It is trav- 
ersed in 2 hrs. 

2. — From Tokyo to Yamada. 

A full description of the 8 hrs. 
journey by T6kaid5 Railway from 
Tokyo to Nagoya will be found in 
Route 23. From Nagoya onwards 
the schedule is as follows : — 



Kwansai Railway. 


-,t 


Names 




^3 O M 


of 


Remarks 


32 £ S3 






5 * 


Stations 






NAGOYA 




6m. 


Kanie 




10£ 


Yatorni 




12* 


Nagashima 




15 


KUWANA Jet. . . 


ForYorop. 239. 


19| 


Tomida 




23 


YOKKAICHI 




271 


Kawarada 




m 


Takamiya 




371 


KAMEYAMA Jet. 


| For Yamada 
land for Kyoto. 


Sangit Railway. 


39f 


Skimonosho 




43 1 


Ishinden 




47 


TSU 




49£ 


Akogi 




52 


Takajaya 




55£ 


Rokken 




59 


MATSUZAKA 




60| 


Tokuwa 




64 


Oka 




681 


Taniaru 




70| 


Miyagawa 




72 


Sivji-mukai- bashi 




73 


YAMADA 





The country through which this 
line passes is intersected by a 
network of rivers, which here 
debouch into the sea. The Kiso- 
gawa, swelled by the waters of 
the Nagara-gawa and the Ibigawa, 
is the largest of these, and by its 
liability to overflow its flat banks, 
offers grave engineering difficulties. 
Extensive works have been set on 
foot with the object of minimising 



292 



Route 34. — The Shrines of Ise. 



the recurrence of destructive floods. 
The two longest bridges are between 
Yatomi and Kuwana, one of which 
has as many as sixteen spans, 
where the river measures two-thirds 
of a mile in width. The view of 
distant mountains is pretty all the 
way as one proceeds westwards, 
relieving the monotony of the sea 
of rice-fields on either hand. 

Kuwana (Inns, Funatsu-ya, 
Kyo-ya), some 10 cho to the W. of its 
station, is a large town. Its attrac- 
tions are the Temple of the Gods of 
Kasuga (lively festival, with numer- 
ous mythological cars on 5-7th 
July), and at the W. end, Atago- 
yama, whither the inhabitants go 
out on holidays for the sake of the 
view. The noted Shinto Temple of 
Tado, which stands in a glen 2 rl 
23 cho to the N.W., has lovely 
maples and flowering trees, and is 
altogether a picturesque and curious 
place, 

It is dedicated jointly to the Sun- 
Goddess and to Ichi-inoku-ren, a one-eyed 
dragon-god, who is very powerful as a 
rain-producer. Accordingly this temple 
is much resorted to in times of drought, 
the peasants carrying off gohei from it to 
their respective fields and villages. They 
must, however, be careful not to let the 
gohei touch the ground anywhere on the 
way ; for all the rain would then fall on 
that spot, and none would be left for the 
places where it is wanted. 

Erom Kuwana on to Yokkaichi, 
the chief thing to notice is the 
mountain range that separates the 
provinces of Ise and Omi. The 
little peninsula of Chita is also seen 
in the blue distance to the 1. The 
old Tokaido road is crossed two or 
three times. 

Yokkaichi (Inn, *Yoshitaka-ya) 
was the first Japanese town to 
Europeanise itself with clusters of 
factory chimneys, now so common 
a sight throughout the empire. It 
is one of the " Special Open Ports " 
for the export of rice, wheat, flour, 
coal, and sulphur ; and much trade 
is carried on by sea, notwithstand- 
ing the extreme shallowness of the 
bay, which prevents any but quite 



small craft from approaching the 
shore at any point. Among the 
principal products of Yokkaichi 
may be mentioned Banko faience, 
— a ware, for the most part, exceed- 
ingly light and having hand-model- 
led decoration in relief ; but every 
variety of it may easily be procured 
at Yokohama and Kobe. 

Between Yokkaichi and Kame- 
yama the railway continues along 
the old Tokaido, whose avenue of 
pine-trees forms a characteristic 
feature. The mountains to the r. 
are those on the borders of Omi, 
the most prominent being the 
Suzuka-toge, with Kama-ga-take at 
the N. and Kyo-ga-mine at the S. 
extremity. 

Kameyama (Inn, Araki-ya, at 
station, Europ. food). We here 
change from the Kwansai to the 
Sangu, or " Pilgrim Railway," so 
called from the Shrines of Ise, 
which it was built to lead to. At 

Ishinden, stands an enormous 
Buddhist temple called Senshuji, or 
more commonly Takata no Gobb. 

This, the chief temple of the Takata 
sub-sect, was founded at Takata in Shimo- 
tsuke by the celebrated abbot Shinran 
Shonin in 1226, and removed here in 1465 
by the priest Shin-e. 

The building closely resembles 
in style and scale the vast Hon- 
gwanji temples described under 
Tokyo and Kyoto, which is as 
much as to say that it is majesti- 
cally spacious and chastely rich. 
The architectural similarity is ac- 
counted for by the fact that the 
Takata and Hongwanji are sister 
sects, both being subdivisions of 
the great Shin sect. 

Tsu (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya at sta- 
tion), which, with its suburbs, is 5 
miles long, is the capital of the 
prefecture of Mie. In the middle of 
the town, close to the inns, stand 
two noted Buddhist temples, — 
Kwannon-ji and Ko-no-Amida, the 
the former rather tawdry, the latter 
exquisite though on a small scale. 



Temples of Tsu. 



292 



The iegend on which the sanctity of this 
temple rests, is a good example of the 
fusion that took place between Buddhism 
and Shinto in early times. A Buddhist 
priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage 
of one hunched days to the shrine of the 
Sun-Goddess at Ise, to entreat her to 
reveal to him. her original shape, — the 
ide^ in those days being that the Shinto 
deities were avatars, or temporary mani- 
festations (Gongen), of which Buddhist 
saints were the originals {Honchi Butsu). 
On the hundredth night the Sun-Goddess 
appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com- 
manding him to go out next morning on 
the sea-shore of Futami, where she pro- 
mised to show herself to him as she real- 
ly was. He did so, and there appeared 
floating on the surface of the waves a 
gold-coloured serpent over ten feet long. 
But the priest was not yet satisfied. 
" This," cried he, "is but a pious device 
on the part of the divinity, whose real 
shape that monster can never be," — and 
so saying, he took off him his priestly 
scarf and flung it at the serpent, which 
vanished with it into the sea. Three 
nights later the Goddess appeared to 
Kakujo in a second dream, and said : 
" The serpent indeed was but another 
temporary manifestation. My real shape 
is preserved in the temple of Muryoju-ji at 
K6 in the district of Suzuka in this same 
land of Ise. Go thither, and thou shalt 
see it." He went accordingly, and found 
that Amida was the Buddhist deity there 
worshipped. The image was considered 
so holy that the priests of the temple at 
first refused to show it ; but what was not 
the astonishment of all present when, on 
Kakujo's request being at last granted, 
the scarf which he had thrown at the 
sea-serpent was found twined round 
the image's neck ! — The removal of the 
temple to Tsu took place about A.D. 1680, 
when the original shrine at K6 had fallen 
into decay, and the image had been found 
one day thrown down on the place where 
the temple now holding it has been raised 
in it3 honour. 

The holy image is enclosed in a 
shrine on the altar, and is only 
exhibited on payment of a fee, 
when a short service in its honour 
is performed and the legend recited 
by the attendant priest. R. and 1. 
are images of Kwannon and Seishi. 
Behind, and continuing all round 
the walls of the building, are dimin- 
utive images of all the Buddhas 
and Bosatsu, called Sen-oku Butsu 
("a thousand million Buddhas"). 
Among other objects of interest, 
note the very large wooden figure 
representing Buddha dead. It is 



laid on real quilts. The green 
coffered ceiling is covered with gilt 
Sanskrit characters in relief. A 
small octagonal structure to the 1. 
contains gilt images of the Thirty- 
three Kwannon. 

Kwannon-ji was formerly noted for a 
boisterous festival called Oni-osae, or 
"Demon-quelling." Two fishermen rep- 
resenting demons were brought in a 
cage, with flaming torches on their heads; 
and it was their part to enter the temple 
and carry off the stone image here wor- 
shipped, which had been originally fished 
up out of the sea, while others of the 
guild repelled them with naked swords. 
A quieter festival, held on the lst-3rd 
March, has been substituted. 

At the far end of the town, stands 
1. a temple dedicated to Yuki-Kotsu- 
ke no &uke, a celebrated retainer of 
Kusunoki Masashige. It dates from 
1884, and offers an elegant example 
of modern Shinto architecture. 
The same grounds contain a small, 
but gaily painted, shrine of Hachi- 
man. A little further on, various 
paths marked by torii or by sign- 
posts, lead 1. to an ancient and pop- 
ular Shinto temple, situated in a 
pine-grove on the sea-shore, and 
called Karasu Gozen no Yashiro, 
that is, the Crow Temple. 

This temple is dedicated to Waka- 
hirume (also called Ori-hime, i.e., the 
Weaving Maiden), a younger sister of the 
Sun-Goddess. The name Karasu in itself 
points to some connection with the sun ; 
for that luminary is supposed to be in- 
habited by a crow. Hence a crow staring 
at the sun is a subject frequently treated 
by Japanese artists. 

The country is flat the whole of 
the rest of the way to Yamada, the 
well-cultivated plain to the 1. most- 
ly appearing boundless, because too 
level to allow of many glimpses 
being caught of Owari Bay which 
lies beyond. At 

Rokken, also called Miwatari, 
there is a cross-country road follow- 
ed by pilgrims to Hase and the other 
Holy Places of Yamato (see Boute 
40). 

Matsuzaka (Lin, Kaishin). This 
town is noted as the birthplace 
of Motoori (see p. 80). The town 



294 



Route 84. — The Shrines of Ise. 



is dominated by a hill called Yoio- 
no-Mori, on which stand the re- 
mains of the castle founded in 1584. 
Below, at the entrance to the 
grounds, is a little Shint5 temple 
dedicated to Motooii, called Yama- 
muro Jinja. The line here aban- 
dons the old pilgrim highway lead- 
ing to Yamada through Saigu. 

Saigu. was in ancient days the abode of 
the Imperial virgin princesses, who, until 
the civil wars of the 14th century, succes- 
sively held the office of high priestess of 
the Sun-Goddess. 

and goes south to Tokuuia and Oka, 
before turning east to Miyagawa, 
so called from a large river which 
is there crossed. 

Yamada (see next page). 



3. — Fkom Naea to Yamada by 

the kwansai and sangu 

Railways. Tstjki-ga-se. 



CD 

in 


Names 

of 

Stations 


Remarks 


4im. 
8 
11 

m 

18| 

231 
25| 

321 

38 

±H 

4d$ 


NARA 

Kizu Jet 

Kamo Jet 

Kasagi 
Okawara 
Shima-ga-hara. . . 

UENO 

Sanagu 

Tsuge Jet 

Kabuto 
Seki 

KAMEYAMA Jet. 


j Alight forTsu- 

< ki-ga-se. 

( For Kusatsu 

< on Tokaido 
( Railway. 

\ For Yamada 
\ or Nagoya. 



Kamo stands in an amphitheatre 
of high hills. Into this the line at 
once strikes, and follows up the 1. 
bank of the extremely narrow valley 
of the Kizugawa, the hillside hav- 
ing been cut down to make room 
for the permanent way. About 



Kasagi (Inn, Kasagi-kwan) we 
pass through wild and picturesque 
scenery. The fortress-like rocks of 
the mountain of the same name, 
noted in history as the scene of the 
Emperor Go-Daigo's defeat (p. 72), 
almost overhang and threaten m to 
fall upon the rails. The dwellings 
perched on the side of the steep 
hills on the opposite bank, and the 
river flowing placidly below be- 
tween huge boulders, help to form 
a scene like those often depicted in 
Japanese art. Between Kasagi and 
Okawara we cross to the r. bank, 
and the hills become less perpen- 
dicular. The summit is marked by 
two tunnels, whence down through 
cultivated country to 

Shima-ga-hara. About 2 J ri 
from this place by jinrikisha lies 
the vill. of Tsuki-ga-se, famous 
for its plum-trees, which line the 
Kizugawa for upwards of 2 miles. 
No other place in Japan can boast 
such a show of the pink and white 
flowers of this fragrant tree, which 
blooms in mid-March. Some rapids 
form another attraction a little 
lower down the stream. 

Ueno (Inn, Tomo-chu), capital of 
the tiny province of Iga, stands in 
a fertile plain. Tsuki-ga-se is also 
easily accessible from here (4 ri). 

From Tsuge (Inn. Tsuru-ya), a 
branch line leads to Kusatsu on the 
Tokaido Railway, 22 J m., affording 
the shortest route to Kyoto for those 
coming from the East. 

Another piece of striking hill 
scenery is that between Tsuge and 
Seki, where the gradient is so 
heavy as to make the assistance of 
an extra engine necessary, although 
three tunnels pierce the steepest 
parts of the ascent. This is the 
Suzuka-toge. The long serrated 
peaks to the r. near Seki are Shaku- 
j6-ga-take and Kyo-ga-mine. At 
Kameyama we change cars, and the 
rest of the journey hence to Yamada 
coincides with that given in the 
preceding section. 



Yamada. 



295 



4. — Yaitada and Neighbourhood. 
Temples of Ise. 

Yainada (Jnns,*Goni-kwai Hotel 
at Fiiruichi, 10 Him. from station ; 
*Uni-kwan, Jap. style, near station 
and Geku Shrine ; *Abura-ya) is a 
straggling town formed by the 
amalgamation of several smaller 
ones, — Yamada proper, Uji, Furu- 
ichi, etc. It lives by and for the Ise 
pilgrims, as does the railway which 
makes special terms for bands 
ranging from ten to three hundred, 
and allows them to break the 
journey in order to worship at 
the minor shrines on the way. 
The inns and tea-houses of Ya- 
mada are very lively, especially at 
night. At some of them a cele- 
brated dance is performed, called 
the Ise Ondo. This dance possesses 
much grace, added to the interest 
of a considerable antiquity. Un- 
fortunately, however, it is generally 
to be witnessed only at houses of 
a doubtful character. A religious 
dance, called Kagura, is executed at 
the temples for such pilgrims as 
choose to pay for it. It is divided 
into three grades, called "Small," 
" Great," and " Extra Great " (Sho, 
Dai, Dai-dai). The charges for 
these various dances are as fol- 
lows : — 

Ise Ondo 3J yen 

Sho Kagura 5" „ 

Dai Kagura 10 „ 

Dai-dai Kagura 20 „ 

Among the peep-shows and 
booths in which the main street of 
Yamada abounds, are some devoted 
to yet another kind of dance, which 
may be seen for a cent or two. It 
is called Sugi Tama. The fun 
consists in the spectators flinging 
coppers at the faces of the girls who 
form the little orchestra, and who 
are trained to such skill in " duck- 
ing," that it is said they are never 
hit. The chief objects for sale at 
Yamada, besides holy pictures and 
medals and other articles of Shinto 
devotion, are ornamental tobacco- 



pouches made of a kind of oil-paper. 
The houses of Yamada are peculiar 
in having overhanging gables and 
a covering of thin weather boarding 
and vertical strips to protect the 
plaster of walls. 

The Museum (Hakubutsu-kican) 
near the Naikii Temple deserves a 
visit for the sake of an interesting 
collection of ancient paintings, 
pottery, and coins, armour, etc., 
implements of the Stone Age, terra- 
cotta images formerly interred with 
Alikados instead of living men, 
objects from Horyuji and Nara, 
together with various articles used 
in and lent by the great shrines at 
Yamada. Another building in the 
grounds is devoted to agricultural 
and marine products. 

The best way to see the sights of 
Yamada and neighbourhood is to 
go the following round, which takes 
a day by jinrikisha to do comfort- 
ably : — from the inn to the Geku 
Temple, the Naiku Temple, Futa- 
mi, Toba (for the view from Hiyori- 
yama), and back to the inn. The 
road is mostly excellent and level. 
Those pressed for time may avail 
themselves of the railway to Toba 
(8Jm.); an electric tramway also 
connects the shrines and Futami. 
In addition to this round, good 
pedestrians are advised to climb 
Asama-yama (p. 301). 

Half a million of pilgrims resort annu- 
ally to the temples of Ise [Ise Daijingu), 
chiefly in winter and spring, when the 
country-folk have more leisure than at 
other seasons. The rationalistic educated 
classes of course take little part in such 
doings ; but even at the present day the 
majority of artisans in Tokyo, and still 
more in Kyoto and Osaka, believe that 
they may find difficulty in gaining a 
livelihood unless they invoke the protec- 
tion of the tutelary goddesses of Ise by 
performing the pilgrimage at least once 
in their lives, and. the peasants are even 
more devout believers. It is still not 
uncommon for schoolboys and 'prentices 
to abscond from home and make their 
way to Ise, subsisting on the alms which 
they beg from travellers. Having obtain- 
ed the bundle of charms, consisting of 
bits of the wood of which the temples 
are built, they make their way home in 
the same manner. This surreptitious 



296 



Route 34 — The Shrines of he. 



method of performiDg the pilgrimage 
is called nuke-mairi, and custom forbids 
even the sternest parent or master from 
finding any fault with the young devotee 
who has been so far for so pious a 
purpose. Stories are even told of dogs 
having performed the pilgrimage by 
themselves. Formerly pilgrims who lived 
at Kyoto were met by their friends at the 
suburb of Ke-age on their return home. 
The custom was for these friends — mostly 
females — to ride out singing the tune of 
the Ise Ondo dance, three persons being 
seated on each horse, one in the middle, 
and one on either side in a sort of wooden 
hod or basket. High revel was held at the 
tea-houses with which Ke-age abounded. 
This custom was termed saka-mukai. The 
Ise pilgrims may be distinguished by 
their gala dress, and by the large bun- 
dles of charms wrapped in oil-paper or 
placed in an oblong varnished box, which 
they carry suspended from their necks 
by a string. Besides these plebeian 
devotees, certain special occasions impose 
on some of the great officers of state the 
duty of presenting themselves at this 
centre of the national cult. The late 
Emperor himself made a progress here 
in lb'05 to render thanks for the triumph 
of Japanese arms over Bussia. 

The special character of sanctity attach- 
ing to the Ise temples arises partly from 
their hoary antiquity, partly from the 
pre-eminence of the goddesses to_whom 
they are delicated. The Naiku, lit. 
" Inner Temple," is believed by the Japa- 
nese to date from the year 4 B.C., and is 
sacred to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu or 
Tenshoko Daijin, ancestress of the Mi- 
kados. Down to the llth century, some 
virgin princess of the Imperial family 
was always entrusted with the care of the 
mirror which is the Sun-Goddess's em- 
blem, and of which some Japanese writers 
speaks as if it were itself a deity, while 
others take it to be merely the image 
of the goddess. It is kept in a box of 
chamaecyparis wood, which rests on a low 
stand covered with a piece of white silk. 
The mirror itself is wrapped in a bag of 
brocade, which is never opened or re- 
newed ; but when it begins to fall to 
pieces from age, another bag is put on, 
so that the actual covering consists of 
many layers. Over the whole is placed a 
sort of wooden cage with ornaments said 
to be of pure gold, over which again is 
thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to 
the floor on all sides. The coverings of 
the box are all that can be seen, when the 
doors are opened at the various festivals. 
The Geku, or " Outer Temple," so-called 
because of its slightly inferior sanctity, is 
now dedicated to the Goddess of Food, 
Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami, also called Uke- 
mochi-no-Kami, but was in earlier times 
under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi- 
no-Mikoto, a god whose name signifies 
literally •* His Augustness the Earthly 



Eternally Standing One." In either case, 
this temple may be considered as sacred 
to the worship of a deification of the 
earth, while the Naiku is dedicated to a 
deification of the sun, the great ruler of 
heaven. The native authorities do not 
inform us of the character of the emblem 
by which the Earth-Goddess is represent- 
ed. As in the case of other Shinto tem- 
ples, so here also at Ise many secondary 
deities (ai-dono) are invoked. Those of 
the Naiku are Tajikarao-no-Kami, lit. 
" the Strong-Handed-Male-Deity," who 
pulled the Sun-Goddess out of the cave 
to which she had retired to avoid her 
brother's ill-usage, and a goddess who 
was one of the forbears of the ImperiaJ 
line. The secondary deities of the Geku 
are Mnigi-no-Mikoto, grandson to the 
Sun-goddess and ancestor of the Imperial 
line, and two of the gods who attended 
him on the occasion of his descent from 
heaven to earth. — It may be mentioned 
that local Japanese parlance indicates 
respect for the great temples by suffixing 
the word S_an, " Mr."_to their names, — 
thus Naiku San, Geku San, pronounced 
Naixan, Gexan. 

The architecture seen at Ise is believed 
to represent the purest and most archaic 
Japanese style,— the old native hut, in 
fact, before the introduction of Chinese 
models. A very ancient rule directs 
that the two great Ise temples, as also 
every minor edifice connected with them, 
shall be razed to the ground and recon- 
structed every twenty years in exactly 
the same style, down to the minutest 
detail. For this purpose there are, both 
at the Naiku and at the Geku, two closely 
adjacent sites. The construction of the 
new temples is commenced on the vacant 
sites towards the end of the period of 
twenty years ; and when they are finish- 
ed, the ceremony of Sengyo, or " Trans- 
ference," takes place, the sacred emblems 
being then solemnly, and amidst a great 
concourse of pilgrims, removed to the 
new buildings from the old. These are 
removed as they gradually moulder away 
and are burnt ; formerly they were pulled 
down and cut up into myriads of charms 
for sale to pilgrims. The general renova- 
tion last took place in October, 1909, 
the total cost amounting to nearly yen 
1,500,000. The immemorial antiquity of 
the Ise temples is therefore only the 
antiquity of a continuous tradition, not 
that of the actual edifices. It is probable, 
however, that at no time for many cen- 
turies past could Ise have been seen to 
such advantage as at present, when the 
minute and enthusiastic researches of 
four generations of scholars of the " Shin- 
to Revival" school into the religious 
archaeology of their nation have at last 
met with official encouragement, and the 
priests have been endowed with the pecu- 
niary means to realise their dream of 
restoring the Japan of to-day to the reli- 



The Geku Temple. 



29? 



gious practices, architecture, and ritual 
of pristine ages unsullied by the foreign 
influence of Buddhism. 

Closely connected with the great Ise 
Shrines are two smaller ones ; the Izogu 
at Isobe on the frontier of Ise and Shima, 
some i or 5 ri beyond Toba, and the 
Takihara Gu at Nojiri in Ise. The 
sanctity of these places is traced to the 
fact that they were in turn the temporary 
headquarters of the cult of the Sun-God- 
dess before it was fixed definitively in its 
present site. The Izogu scarcely deserves 
a visit. The Takihara Gu is described 
near the end of Eoute 42. 

The Geku Temple. The ap- 
proach is pretty. A Shin-en, lit. 
" Divine Park," containing a 
circular pond, has replaced the 
houses and fields that covered this 
place previous to 1889 ; and beyond 
rises a hill finely timbered with 
cryptomerias, huge camphor-trees, 
maples, keyaku and the sacred 
though not imposing ma-sakaki 
(Cleyera japonka). The main en- 
trance is by the Ichi no Torii, or 
" First Gateway," to whose r. is the 
Sanshusko, lit. "Place of Assem- 
bly," where members of the 
Imperial family change their gar- 
ments previous to worshipping in 
the temple. A broad road leads 
hence through the trees to the 
temple. A short way up it, is the 
Xi no Torii, or " Second Gateway," 
near which stands a building where 
the kagura dances are performed at 
the lequest of pious pilgrims, and 
where the food offerings are sold 
for a few sen a meal ; adjoining it, 
is a shop for the sale of o fuda, or 
paper charms, inscribed with the 
name of the Goddess of Food. 
Eeyond these buildings, we soon 
reach the enclosure containing 
the Geku, or actual temple, 
concealed for the most part be- 
hind a succession of fences. The 
outer fence, called Itagaki, is built 
of cryptomeria wood, neatly planed 
and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in 
width at the front, and 335 ft. in 
the rear; the E. side is 247 ft., the 
W. side 235 ft. long, so that the 
shape is that of an irregular oblong, 
the formation of the ground rather 



than any necessary relation of 
numbers having determined the 
proportions. In the middle of the 
outer fence is the principal en- 
trance, formed of a torii similar to 
those already passed, but of smaller 
dimensions. The screen opposite 
is called JBampei. There are three 
other entrances in the Ita-gaki, 
formed each by a torii, one on each 
side and one at the back, belonging 
to the Mike-den, where the food 
offerings are set out twice daily. 
The S. torii gives access to a small 
court, of which a thatched gateway 
ordinarily closed by a white curtain 
forms the further side, while the 
ends are formed by the Ita-gaki. 
On the 1. hand is a gate-keeper's 
lodge. Unless the pilgrim be an 
Imperial personage or Envoy, he is 
prevented from going further. 

The thatched gateway above-men- 
tioned is the principal opening in 
a second fence called the Ara-gaki, 
composed of cryptomeria trunks 
alternately long and short, placed 
at intervals of about 2£ ft. with 
two horizontal railings, one run- 
ning along the top, the other along 
the centre. The distance of this 
fence from the outer enclosure 
varies from 10 ft. to 36 ft. on 
different sides of the square. 
Besides the torii on the S., there 
are three others, one on each side, 
corresponding to the other three 
main entrances of the boarded 
enclosure. These are unusual in 
style, being closed with solid gates, 
an arrangement rarely seen in 
Shinto temples. Inside the thatch- 
ed gateway is a shed 40 ft. by 20 
ft., called Shijb-den, a restoration 
of one of three buildings anciently 
called Xaorai-dono, which were set 
apart for the entertainment of the 
envoys sent by the Mikado after 
the celebration of the Kan-name 
Matsuri, or "Festival of Divine 
Tasting" (see p. 3). Just inside a 
small torii are the Ishi-tsubo, — 
spaces marked out by larger stones, 
r. for the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the 
priests of the temple. At a distance 



The Geku Temple* 



299 



of 33 yds. from the first thatched 
gateway is a second, which gives 
access to a third court, surrounded 
by a palisade called Tama-gaki, 
formed of planks about 8 ft. high 
placed close together. Just within 
this court is a small wooden gate- 
way, immediately beyond which is 
a thatched gateway, forming the 
entrance to the central enclosure. 
This enclosure is surrounded by a 
wooden palisade called Mizu-gaki, 
and is almost a perfect square, be- 
ing 134 ft. by 131 ft. At the back 
of it is the Shoden or shrine, on the 
r. and 1. of the entrance to which 
are the treasuries (Hoden). 

The shrine is 34 ft. in length by 
19 ft. in width Its floor, raised 
about 6 ft. from the ground, is 
supported on wooden posts planted 
in the earth. A balcony 3 ft. wide, 
which is approached by a flight of 
nine steps 15 ft, in width, runs 
right round the building, and car- 
ries a low balustrade, the tops of 
whose posts are cut into the shape 
called hoshu no tama, which, 
strangely enough, is a Buddhist 
ornament, the so-called "Precious 
Jewel of Omnipotence." The steps, 
balustrade, and doors are profusely 
overlaid with brass plates ; and the 
external ridge-pole, cross-trees, and 
projecting rafters are also adorned 
with the same metal. A covered 
way leads from the inner gate up 
to the steps of the shrine. The 
two treasuries are raised on short 
legs or stands, after the fashion of 
the store-houses of the Luchuans. 
They are said to contain precious 
silken stuffs, raw silk presented by 
the province of Mikawa, and trap- 
pings for the sacred horses. Be- 
tween the Ita-gaki and the Ara- 



gaki stands the Heihaku-den, in- 
tended to contain the offerings 
called gohei. Another building in 
the enclosure is the Mike-den, 
where the water and the food 
offered up to the gods of both the 
Geku and Naiku are daily set forth, 
in winter at 9 A.M. and 4 P.M., in 
summer at 8 A.M. and 3 P.M. 

Up to A.D. 729, the food offerings for 
the Kaikii, having first been prepared at 
the Geku, were conveyed to the former 
temple, there to be set out. In that year, 
as this ceremony was being performed, 
the offerings were unwittingly carried 
past some unclean object which happen- 
ed to be on the road. The consequence 
was that the Mikado fell sick, and the 
diviners attributed his malady to the 
anger of the Sun-Goddess. Since that 
time the offerings for both temples have 
been set out only at the Geku. The 
offerings made to each of the principal 
deities consist of four cups of water, 
sixteen saucers of rice, and four of salt, 
besides fish, birds, fruits, seaweed, and 
vegetables. The offerings to each lesser 
deity are the same, except that only half 
the quantity of fruit is provided. 

The chief festivals are the " Praying 
for Harvest" {Kinen-sai) , 17th February; 
"Presentation of Clothing" {Onzo-sai), 
14th May and October ; '* Monthly Festi- 
val" (Tsuki-nami no matsuri), 17th June 
and 17th December; "Divine Tasting" 
{Kan-name), 17th October ; " Harvest 
Festival " (Shinjo-sai) 23rd November. 
Besides these, a "Great Purification" 
(O-oarai) is performed on the last day of 
each month, more particularly in June 
and December, and also before each of 
the above-named grand festivals. The 
dates given are those of the celebration 
at the Naiku. The ceremonies are re- 
peated at the Geku on the following day, 
at the Izvgu on the third day, and at the 
Takahara Gu on the fourth ; but the Im- 
perial Envoy, who represents the Mikado 
at the two former shrines, does not visit 
the two latter. 

On the side of a low hill to the S. 
of the chief temple buildings, stand 
two much smaller shrines. That to 



Index to Plan of Ise Temple. 



1. Barnpei (screen). 

2. Ita-gaki (1st fence). 

3. Ara-gaki (2nd fence). 

4. Tama-gaki (3rd fence). 

5. Mizu-gaki (4th fence). 

6. Gate-keeper's Lodge. 



7. Shijoden. 

q' [ Hoden (treasuries). 

10. Shoden (chief shrine). 

11. Mike-den (temple for food 

offerings). 



SCO 



Route Si. — The Shrines of tse. 



the 1. is known as Kaze-no-miya, 
that to the r. as Tsuchi-no-miya. 
Higher up the same hill is the 
Taka-no-miya. 

After thus seeing as much as 
is permitted to be seen of the 
Geku, we re-enter our jinrikishas 
(or take the electric tram, J hr.), 
and speed along an excellent level 
road to the Till, of Uji and the 
Naiku Temple, embosomed in 
an antique grove of cryptomerias, 
camphor- trees, and other magnifi- 
cent timber, which in itself is 
worth coming to see. 

The camphor-trees have railings round 
them, to prevent people from peeling off 
the bark and making charms of it. The 
efficacy of these charms is specially be- 
lieved in by sailors, who throw them into 
the sea to calm the waves. In Japan, as 
elswhere, the dangers of a sea life ap- 
pear to foster superstition. Some of the 
most celebrated shrines — Kompira, for 
instance (see Kte. 52) — depend greatly 
upon seafaring men for their support. 
The river, spanned by a fine bridge leading 
to the "Divine Park," is the Isuzu-gawa, 
wherein pilgrims purify themselves before 
worship by washing their hands and 
mouth. One of the huge guns in the 
grounds was taken from the Chinese in 
1895, the other from the Russian battle- 
ship " Orel." 

Being dedicated to the Sun- 
Goddess Ama-terasu, the Naiku is 
of even superior sanctity to the 
Geku, and is constructed on a 
somewhat larger scale. But as the 
arrangement of the temple grounds 
and enclosed buildings closely re- 
sembles that of the Geku already 
described in detail, no particulars 
will be needed except the measure- 
ments. The outer enclosure is 195 
ft. in front, 202 ft. at the back, and 
369 ft. at the side. The innermost 
enclosure (Mizu-gaki) measures 149 
ft. in front, 150 ft. at the back, and 
144 ft. on each side. 

5. Futami and Toba. [Peovince 
or Shima.] Asama-yama. 

A few min. by train from 
Yamada, or tram from the temples, 
take one to 



Futami (Inn, Asahi-kwan, with 
sea-bathing). This village is con- 
sidered by the Japanese one of the 
most picturesque places on their 
coast, and few art motives are more 
popular than the Mydto-seki, or 
"Wife and Husband Bocks,"— two 
rocks close to the shore, tied to- 
gether by a straw rope. 

In this case the straw rope (shime) prob- 
ably symbolises conjugal union. There 
is, however, a legend to the effect that the 
god Susa-no-o, in return for hospitality 
received, instructed a poor villager of 
this place how to protect his house from 
future visitations of the Plague-God by 
fastening such a rope across the entrance. 
A tiny shrine, called Somin shbzai no 
Tashiro, commemorates the legend. The 
custom of warding off infectious disease 
by suspending a straw rope across the 
highway is common throughout the 
country. 

The view of islets and bays 
stretching away eastward is doubt- 
less pretty, even distant Fuji being 
occasionally visible ; and the meta- 
morphic slate rocks are such as 
Japanese aesthetes prize highly for 
their gardens. It may nevertheless 
be doubted whether Europeans 
would single out Futami for par- 
ticular praise from among the 
countless lovely scenes in Japan, 
especially in a neighbourhood 
boasting the glorious views from 
Hiyori-yama and Asama-yama. 
The way from Futami to Toba (2 ri 
9 cho) is rather hilly, but pretty, 
especially near Ike-no-ura, a many- 
branching inlet of the sea. 

Toba is a sleepy little town, 
enlivened only by the visits of 
coasting steamers ; but Hiyori-yama 
(pleasant tea-house where one may 
lunch), just above the station, 
affords a view which is a perfect 
dream of beauty. It includes Fuji, 
Haku-san, and most of the moun- 
tains mentioned on the next page 
as visible from Asama-yama. But 
its special loveliness is the fore- 
ground, — a labyrinth of islets and 
peninsulas and green hills, and the 
blue sea studded with the white 
sails of junks, while other junks 






Province of Shima. Asama-yama. 



301 



lie at anchor in Toba harbour. 
The hill rising conspicuously in the 
middle of the town was the site of 
the castle of the former Daimy5, 
now converted into a park. 

[From Toba, roads lead round 
and across the Province of 
Shima into Kishu. Steamers 
also call in at Matoya and 
Hamajima on their way west- 
ward. Shima resembles Kishu 
in its general features, but is 
less well-worth visiting. The 
reader is accordingly referred 
to Route 42. 

The little province of Shiraa has 
been noted froni the earliest an- 
tiquity for its female divers (ama), 
pictures of whom — "bare to the waist 
and with a red nether garment — 
may often be seen. They fish up 
awabi (sea-ears) and tengusa, a kind 
of sea-weed (Gelidium corneum) which 
is used to make a delicious jelly 
called tokoro-ten. So hardy are they, 
that they will go on diving even when 
on the eve of childbirth ; but they 
age quickly and become repulsively 
ugly, with coarse tanned skin and 
hair that turns reddish from con- 
stant drenching, and is apt to fall off 
in patches. The women of Shima 
not only dive ; they also do most of 
the field-work. In fact they support 
their fathers, brothers, and hus- 
bands, who loll about, smoke, play 
chess and are, in a word, the weaker 
vessels. Few girls get married who 
are not expert divers, nor do they 
marry very early in most cases, 
being too valuable to their parents 
as bread-winners. Even the wife of 
a man in easy circumstances — a 
village elder, for instance — is forced 
by public opinion to gain her liveli- 
hood aquatically. The best places at 
which to see the diving are Toshi- 
mura, a vill. on one of the large 
islands opposite Toba, Sugashima, 
and Kbka near Matoya. Boats are 
procurable at Toba to take visitors 
across.] 

Xo pedestrian, even if he has 
seen the view from Hiyori-yama, 
should miss that from Asama-yama. 

This name, which is written with the 
characters fy] fig, has nothing to do with 
the Asama of Shinshu, which is written 

mm. 

The way back from Toba and 



Futami skirts its base ; and as jin- 
rikishas can be availed of to a spot 
within 22 cho of the top, the best 
plan is to take them so far and 
either return again the same way, 
or, better still, send them round to 
wait at the Naiku Temple, which 
latter plan gives one a capital 
4 or 5 miles' walk down the gradual 
incline of the other slope of the 
mountain. The celebrated view is 
obtained from a spot 1,300 ft. above 
the sea, where there is a tea-house 
called Tofu-ya. Oddly enough, one 
of the widest mountain panoramas 
in Japan is obtained in spite of the 
circumstance that barely half the 
horizon lies open to view. Below 
in the foreground is Owari Bay, 
looking like a lake, while in the 
distance beyond it stretches a long 
series of mountains, — Futago-yama 
on the Hakone Pass, Fuji, Yatsu-ga- 
take, Akiha-san, the volcano of Asa- 
ma, Koma-ga-take, Tateyama in 
Etchu, Ontake, Norikura in Hida, 
Haku-san, Abura-zaka in Echizen, 
Ibuki-yama in Omi, Tado-san, Mi- 
tsugo-yama, Suzuka-yama, and 
NunobikL-yama on the W. frontier 
of Ise. 

[Though one must return to the 
T6fu-ya tea-house in order to 
get home, it is worth walking 
on 10 cho to the Oku-no-in of 
this holy mountain for the 
curious view which it affords of 
the green-blue jumble of dense- 
ly wooded hills that form the 
province of Shima and eastern 
Kishu. On the way one passes 
several little Buddhist shrines, 
and — piquant contrast ! — the 
headquarters of a favourite old 
quack medicine, the Mother 
Seigel of Japan. Mankintan — 
for so this medicament styles 
itself — brings thousands of 
dollars yearly into the pockets 
of the people of Yamada. The 
Oku-no-in, which is dedicated 
to Kokuzo Bosatsu, was former- 
ly a gem, but is now much 
decayed], 



302 



Route 35. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 



EOUTE 35. 



Kobe and Neighbouehood. 

1. Kobe. 2. Hyogo. 3. Walks 
and Excursions: nunobiki wa- 
terfalls. THE MOON TEMPLE. 
futatabi-san. rokko-zan, aeima. 
m1n6. takaea-zuea. nakayama- 
deea. hieano. aeima. sum a, 
maieo, etc., on the sanyo rail- 
way, himeji. 

1. — Kobe. 

Hotels. — Oriental Hotel, on the 
Bund; The Tor, on the hill-side; 
Central Hotel, in Shimo-yamate- 
dori ; Mikado Hotel. 

Japanese Inns. — Nishimura, Got5. 

Tea-house for entertainments in 
Japanese style, Tokiwa. 

Consulates. — British and Ameri- 
can, on the Bund ; German, No. 
115, Higashi-machi ; French, in 
Nakay amate-dori . 

Banks. — Hongkong and Shang- 
hai Bank, No. 2, Bund; Chartered 
Bank of India, Australia, and 
China, No. 26 ; International Bank, 
No. 8b. 

Church es . — Anglican, Nakayama- 
te-dori; Union Church (Congrega- 
tional), No. 48; Boman Catholic, 
No. 37. 

Curios. — Kuhn and Co., No. 18, 
Maye-machi; Echigo-ya, Hamada's 
Fine Art Depot (Harishin), and 
others, in Moto-machi. 

Bamboo-work. — Iwamoto, near 
Nanko temple ; Chodaisha, at 
Hyogo. 

Photographers. — Ichida, in Moto- 
machi ; Tamamura in Sannomiya. 

Commercial Museum. — In Sanno- 
miya-ch5. 

Newspapers. — " Japan Chronicle," 
"Kobe Herald," daily. 

Electric tram to Osaka, every 5 
minutes. Trams go as far as Suma 
in the opposite direction. City 
trams also traverse the main tho- 
roughfares. 

Steamer Agencies. — Peninsular 



and Oriental Co., No. 109; Mes- 
sageries Maritimes, No. 6 ; Nord- 
deutscher Lloyd, No. 10 ; Canadian 
Pacific, No. 14 ; Pacific Mail Co., and 
Toyd Kisen Kwaisha, No. 84; 
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, opposite 
American Hatoba. Kobe is also 
the chief port of call for the 
numerous small steamers that ply 
on the Inland Sea. 

The Kobe Club, Athletic Club, Club 
Concordia (German), and the Re- 
creation Ground for cricket, base-ball, 
lawn-tennis, etc., are at the E. end 
of the Settlement. 

Theatres. — Daikoku-za ; Aoi-za. 
Also at Hyogo, Benten-za, Ya- 
nagi-za. 

The Terminus (Kobe station) of 
the Tokaidd and Sanyo Railways 
is in the Japanese town ; but San- 
nomiya is the station for the Hotels 
and much nearer to the Foreign 
Settlement. Here also is the Tele- 
graph Office. The Post Office stands 
not far off. 

Kobe was founded as a foreign settle- 
ment in 1868. Its exports and imports 
now exceed those of any other place in 
the empire. It is the favourite port in 
Japan, owing to the purity and dryness 
of its air, and its nearness to many places 
of beauty and interest, such as Kyoto, 
Lake Biwa, Nara, and the Inland Sea. 
The pretty basket-work sold at Kobe is 
made at Arima (see p. 304). The Kobe 
beef, highly esteemed all over the Far 
East, comes mostly from the province of 
Tajima to the N. W. The finest sake in 
Japan is manufactured at Nada, about 
2 miles E. of Kobe. 

For excursions from Kobe see 
Sec. 3. 

2. — Hyogo. 

_ Hyogo (Inns and resits., Tokiwa, 
Otowa), a large town giving its 
name to the prefecture, adjoins 
Kobe on the S.W. 

Under the earlier name of Buko, it had 
existed as a port from very ancient days. 
It rose into prominence in the latter 
part of the 12th century, when Kiyomori 
removed the capital from Kyoto to Fuku- 
wara in the immediate vicinity. This 
change of capital only lasted six months, 
—from the 28th June, 1180, to the 20th 
December of the same year, 



Taisbakusan 




FOR MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 



Hydgo. Walks and Excursions. 



303 



Just beyond the Ai-oi Bridge, 
which joins Kobe to Hyogo, stands 
r. in a square walled enclosure the 
Shinto temple of Karilco, dedicated 
to the celebrated warrior Kusunoki 
Masashige (see p. 79), the build- 
ings date from 1872. The grounds, 
which form a popular resort at all 
seasons, are exceptionally lively on 
the anniversary of Kusunoki's 
death, 25th May, when men dress 
up in armour and various recrea- 
tions are indulged in. On the hill 
behind the Nanko temple stands 
a large statue of Prince ltd. The 
Minatogaica, in whose bed Kusunoki 
suffered defeat, has been deflected 
from its course, and the banks have 
been laid out as a promenade lined 
with lofty pine-trees. A portion of 
the river bed forms one of Kobe's 
chief pleasure resorts with beer- 
halls, cinema shows, etc. 

Hyogo' s other chief sight is the 
Daibutsu, or great bronze Buddha, 
erected in 1891 in the precincts of 
the temple of Nofukuji. It is 48 ft. 
high, and 85 ft. round the waist; 
length of face, 8J ft.; eye, 3 ft.; ear, 
6 ft.; nose, 3J ft.; mouth, 2J ft.; 
diameter of lap, 25 ft.; circum- 
ference of thumb, 2 ft. This large 
work owed . its inception to the 
zeal of a paper manufacturer of 
Hyogo, named Nanjo Skobei. 
Though by no means equal to the 
ancient Daibutsu at Kamakura, 
the face is better than that of the 
Nara Daibutsu. The visitor is 
taken into the interior of the image, 
where is an altar to Amida, besides 
a number of lesser images (four of 
which are by Unkei), and other 
Buddhist ornaments. The naked 
infant is what is called a tanjo- 
Shaka (see p. 52). The numerous 
mirrors hung up here are gifts from 
the faithful. 

Not far from Kofukuji stands 
another Buddhist temple, called 
Shinkdji, with a bronze image of 
Amida, which, though much smaller 
than the Daibutsu, is a remarkable 
work of art. It is, moreover, prettily 
set on a large stone pedestal in 



front of a lotus pond, so that the 
effect is charming when those 
flowers are in bloom. The temple 
itself is plain, but well-preserved. 
On the opposite side of the road is 
a stone Monument to Kiyomori, in 
the shape of a small thirteen-storied 
pagoda. Close by is the temple of 
Eifukuji, where an official of the 
Daimyo of Bizen, who had ordered 
the Foreign Settlement at Kobe to 
be fired upon in 1868, was con- 
demned to commit harakiri, — a 
scene graphically described in 
Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. 

A short morning will suffice for 
the sights of Hyogo, if done in 
jinrikisha. 

3. — Walks and Excuksions. 

The neighbourhood of Kobe 
abounds in pretty walks and picnic 
resorts, of which the following are 
the chief. 

1. The Shint5 temple of Ikuta 
stands in a wood of cryptomerias 
and camphor- trees, 10 min. walk 
from the hotels. The deity wor- 
shipped here is Tv r aka-hirume-no- 
Mikoto, who might perhaps be 
styled the Japanese Minerva, as 
she taught the use of the loom and 
introduced clothing. 

The temple is said to have been found- 
ed by the Empress Jingo on her return 
from the famous expedition against 
Korea, in honour of this goddess whom 
she had adopted as the patroness of her 
enterprise, and to whom she ascribed the 
victory gained by her arms. Hideyoshi, 
when despatching his expedition to Korea 
in the 16th century, caused prayers to be 
offered up at the shrine of this goddess. 
Prayers to her in seasons of drought or 
of excessive rain are said to be invariably 
answered. Festival, 3rd April. Annual 
fair, 23rd to 27th September. 

2. The Nunobiki Waterfalls 
are about 20 min. from the hotels. 
The path first reaches the Men-daki, 
or "Female Fall," 43 ft. high; 
then returning a few yards and 
crossing a stone bridge, it climbs 
to other tea-houses which command 
a view of the upper, or " Male Fall " 
{On-daki), 82 ft. high. Ladies are 



304 



Route 35. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 



advissd only to visit Nunobiki 
under the escort of gentlemen, as 
the tea-houses are apt to be noisy. 
A good view of Kobe and the 
surrounding country may be had 
from Sunago-yama, a detached hill 
near the fall. There is a tea-house 
at the top. Another good view 
may be obtained by proceeding 
further up the course of the stream 
towards the reservoir which sup- 
plies Kobe with water. 

3. Suwa-yama, 1 mile. This 
spur of the range behind Kobe, 
crowned by tea-houses where min- 
eral baths may be taken, commands 
an extensive view of the town and 
sea-shore. 

4. Maya-san is the name of one 
of the highest peaks (2,416 ft.) of 
the range behind Kobe. The sum- 
mit commands a very fine view 
over Kobe and the bay. Take jin- 
rikisha with two men to Gomo (J hr.), 
thence either chair or walk (1 hr.). 
The ascent is steep. Return either 
by Gomo or by the direct path to 
the Cemetery. This place is known 
to foreigners as the Moon Temple, — 
a purely fanciful designation, as the 
place has no connection with the 
moon, but is dedicated to Maya 
Bunin, the mother of Buddha. The 
temple stands on a platform at the 
top of a stone staircase, about 400 
ft. below the top of the mountain, 
which is reached by passing through 
a door to the 1. of the shrine at the 
back, before ascending. The tem- 
ple contains a small image of Maya 
Bunin, one of two made by order 
of Wu Ti of the Liang dynas- 
ty (a.d. 502-529), and was brought 
back from China by Kobd Daishi. 
The 7th day of the 7th moon, old 
style, is the great annual festival 
here ; most of the pilgrims ascend 
at night, their long line of lanterns 
producing a very pretty effect. 
Those who make the ascent on that 
day obtain as much merit as if they 
had ascended forty-eight thousand 
times. 

5. Futatabi-san, 3 miles dis- 
tant, is a temple dedicated to Kobo 



Daishi, which stands on a conical 
eminence 1,600 ft. high, behind the 
first range of hills to the N. of 
Kobe. It is accessible either by 
a stiff climb of 1 hr., through a pass 
properly called Kuruma-dani, but 
known to the foreign residents as 
"Hunter's Gap," at the foot of 
which is a small spring containing 
sulphur ; or by a more roundabout, 
but less steep, ascent entering a 
valley to the W. of Suwa-yama. 
The view from the top is fine, 
the outlook to the N. offering 
a bird's-eye view of the bare 
weather-worn hills known to 
foreigners as " Aden," which locali- 
ty the prospect somewhat resem- 
bles. The Japanese name is Shari- 
yama. Near the summit, on the r. 
hand going up, is the Kame-ishi, a 
rock the top of which is roughly 
fashioned into the head and forelegs 
of a tortoise (kame). 

6. Rokko-zan (3,050 ft.) is the 
name given to the ridge, extending 
for about 4 miles, of a range of hills 
to the N.E. of K5be. Near the 
middle of this ridge is an 18 hole 
Golf Course with comfortable Club 
House, noted for exceptionally 
beautiful surroundings. Between 
the Golf Links and the W. end of 
the ridge stand numerous villas 
erected by foreign residents of 
Kobe. Nowhere in Japan do the 
azaleas from the middle to the end 
of May present such a mass of 
glorious colouring as on these slopes, 
while the views over mountain 
ranges to the N. and W., over usaka 
to the E., the bay of Kobe and the 
Inland Sea to the S. and S.W. afford 
a delightful panorama. 

The best way to reach Bokko-zan 
is by jinrikisha with 2 men to Gomo 
(30 min.), thence walk (the services 
of a " push-man " are appreciated 
by many), or take a chair, — time 
from Gomo abour 1J hr. 

7. Arlma (Inns, Arima Hotel 
(branch of the Miyako Hotel, Ky5to); 
Ikenobo, and others), a favourite 
summer resort, lies 9 m. from Kobe 
as the crow flies, and is 1,400 ft, 



Mind. Takara-zuka. Suma. 



305 



above sea-level. The air is cool, the 
scenery pretty enough, though not 
remarkable, and pleasant rambles 
may be taken in the vicinity. 
Dainty basket-work is a local 
speciality. Arima may be most 
easily reached by taking train to 
Kanzaki, § hr., and on to Namaze, 
f hr. more, whence by jinrikisha for 
another 2 h ri. Some prefer going 
on as far" as Sanda station (1J hr. 
from Kanzaki), whence jinrikisha. 

But the plan recommended is to 
combine this excursion with the 
previous one and to walk or take 
chairs to the Bokk5-zan villas from 
Gomo (1| hr.), descend to Karato 
(1 hr.) and to Arima (1 hr.), where 
stop the night. The return is made 
the next day to Gomo and Kobe by 
another pass at the E. end of the 
ridge, passing the Golf Links. 

The railway affords facilities for 
making a number of more distant 
excursions. Such are those to 

8. Mind, which is reached by 
rail from Kanzaki Junction, f hr., 
whence branch line to Ikeda, about 
^ hr., and about 1 hr. more by 
jinrikisha_or by electric tram via 
Umeda (Osaka) all the way. The 
jinrildshas must be left at the 
entrance of the village. Shortly 
beyond, the path enters a beautiful 
glen some 2 m. in length, termi- 
nated abruptly by a tall cliff over 
which falls a cascade 70 ft. high. 
The best time to visit Mino is in 
November, when the maple-trees 
glow with an almost incredible 
blaze of colour. It is also very 
pretty in April, with the blossom 
of the cherry-trees. Some way up 
the glen, on the r., stands a temple 
with a little pavilion overlooking 
the stream. — The advent of the 
trams has spoilt the old rural 
character of this spot. 

9. Takara-zuka (Hotel Tansan) 
is a pleasant resort noted for its 
two mineral springs, — " Tansan " 
(an excellent drinking water) and 
"Xiwo" (salt, ferruginous, and 
aperient ; also used heated for bath- 
ing). Visitors are shown over the 



Tansan works, which make a 
pleasant walk of 20 min. from the 
Hotel. Takara-zuka is reached from 
Kobe by train via Kanzaki Jet. in 
1J hr. ; by tram all the way via 
Umeda (Osaka) in a little under 2 
hrs. ; or by tram to Nishi-no-miya 
Higashi-guchi, whence 50 min. by 
jinrikisha. 

10. Nakayama-dera (Inn, 
Nishiki-no-B6), the twenty-fourth 
of the Thirty-three Holy Places of 
Kwannon, and known to foreign 
residents as the "Fish Temple," 
possesses a charming view and 
mineral springs. It is reached by 
taking rail to Kanzaki Junction as 
above, whence branch line to Naka- 
yama, J hr. more. — Half an hour fur- 
ther along the line lies Takedao, 
on the banks of the Mukogawa, 
with hot springs and several inns. — 
Hirano is situated some 6 m. from 
the station of Ikeda on the same 
line, about J hr. run from Kanzaki, 
the way leading by a pretty gorge 
through which dashes a stream 
called Tsuzumi-ga-taki. — About 2 ri 
to the N.E. of Hirano rises Myoken- 
yama, 3,000 ft., with a good sea view. 
It is a resort of Japanese suffering 
from ophthalmia. 

11. Kabuto-yama (1,020 ft,), 
called by the foreign residents 
Bismarck Hill, lies 1J hr. on foot to 
the N. of Nishi-no-miya station. 
Stone images and shrines are here 
to be seen perched on apparently 
inaccessible pinnacles. The climb, 
easy as far as the temple of Hachi- 
man, is stiff from thence to the 
summit; but the view is magnifi- 
cent, this hill being a landmark 
for ships navigating up the Kii 
Channel. The broad, flat summit 
forms an ideal place for picnics. 

12. Suma, Shioya, Maiko, and 
Akashi, on the Sanyo Kail way. 
Here many Kobe residents have 
summer quarters, and enjoy excel- 
lent sea-bathing. The following 
inns may be recommended : — Hoyo- 
in, at Suma; Oriental's Seaside 
Yilla, at Shioya ; *ManM-ro, Kame- 
ya, at Maiko ; and Shioto-kwan, at 



306 



Route 35. — Kobe and Neighbourhood, 



Akashi. Maiko is noted for its 
park of weird-shaped pine-trees. 
An Imperial villa has been built 
here. At Akashi, which is a pleas- 
ant spot for picnics, there is a pretty 
little Shinto temple in honour of 
the ancient poet Hitomaro, and 
there remain the moat and walls of 
the large castle of the former Dai- 
myo. Akashi is the place selected 
as the time meridian for all Japan. 
— A pleasant way to visit the above 
places is to drive from Kobe, where 
carriages and motor cars can be 
hired; — Takasago and Sone, a 
little further down the coast, are 
much visited by the Japanese, who 
alight at Kakogawa station, and 
rejoin the train at Sone, after a 
round of 2J ri by jinrikisha. The 
attractions are some famous old 
pine-trees and a temple of Tenjin. 
These places, together with JBefu 
and Onoe in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood, constitute what is called 
the Harima Meguri, or " Bound of 
the Province of Harima." 

From the time of Hitomaro early in the 
8th century onward, the Japanese poets 
have never tired of singing the beauties 
of this pine-clad coast. The spirits of 
two ancient pine-trees (Ai-oi no Matsu) 
at Takasago, personified as a man and 
woman of venerable age who are oc- 
cupied in raking up pine-needles, form 
a favourite subject of Japanese art as 
typifying longevity. Here also is laid 
the scene of some of the most celebrated 
chapters of the Genji Mono-gatari, the 
greatest of the classical romances, com- 
posed about A.D. 1000. This coast has 
likewise been the scene of stirring his- 
torical events, more particularly of a 
great battle fought in the year 1181 
between the armies of the rival houses of 
Taira and Minamoto, who were then still 
struggling for political supremacy, though 
the final triumph of the Minamoto in the 
person of Yoritomo was not far off. The 
battle was fought close to the W. end of 
Suma in a valley called Ichi-no-tani, and 
was the occasion of an incident famous 
in history and song as the " Death of 
Atsumori " (see Kumagai Naozane, p. 78). 

13. Himeji (Inn, Akamatsu-rd; 
Europ. restt., Inoue-ro), capital of 
the province of Harima, is a busy 
commercial centre, being at the 
junction of three highways, — the 



Sanyodo, which runs west along the 
northern shore of the Inland Sea to 
Shimonoseki; a road to the provinces 
of Mimasaka, Hoki, and Izumo; 
and a third up the valley of (he 
Ichikawa, via Ikuno, to Toyo-oka in 
the province of Tajima, Himeji's 
chief attraction, however, is its 
ancient Castle, which still remains 
in a state of exceptional preserva- 
tion and eminently deserves a visit, 
being the largest in Japan next to 
that of Osaka. It is five-storied, 
and the top commands a fine view. 
Permits may be obtained through 
the foreign Consulates at Kobe. 

The castle, at it stands, is the outcome' 
of the warlike labours of several noble 
families during many ages. Founded in 
the 14th century by Akamatsu Enshin, it 
soon fell into the hands of the Ashikaga 
Shoguns, but was recovered in 1467 by a 
descendant of the Akamatsu family. In 
1577, Oda Nobunaga, then all-powerful, 
gave the province to Hideyoshi, who 
enlarged the castle and crowned it with 
thirty turrets. In 1608, Ikeda Terumasa, 
to whom it had been meantime granted 
in fief, increased the number of turrets 
to fifty, which took him nine years to 
finish. Thenceforward Himeji was at 
peace ; and at the time of the collapse 
of feudalism, belonged to a Daimyo 
named Sakai. The barracks now used 
are of modern construction. 

The chief productions of Himeji 
are cotton and stamped leather 
goods. At Shirakuni, a short dis- 
tance from Himeji, are some pretty 
plum orchards. 

14. It is easy from Kobe to visit 
the large and interesting Island of 
Awaji, which forms the subject- 
matter of Eoute 48, and to start 
on a tour down the Inland Sea or 
to Shikoku (Eoutes 47, and 52-6). 



Route 36. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



307 



ROUTE 36. 



Osaka and Neighborhood. 

1. the city and castle. 2. exctjb- 
sion to sumitoshi, sakai, and 
wakayama. 

1. — The City of Osaka. 

Osaka is reached by the Tokaidd 
Railway from either Kdbe or Kyoto 
in about | hr. 

Hotels. — Osaka Hotel, Nippon 
Hotel, both 10 min. from the 
Tdkaido Railway station. The 
first-mentioned has an Annexe for 
distinguished guests on the river 
bank, with fine garden. 

Japanese Inns. — Seikwan-ro; Ha- 
na-ya. 

Restaurants. — (Europ. food), Furu- 
kawa Club ; (Jap.) Nada-man. 

Theatres. — Teikoku-za, (Europ. 
style) in the business quarter; 
Kado-za, Naniwa-za, Benten-za, 
etc., in Dotom-bori. 

Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, in 
Naniwa-bashi-dori ; Fujiwara, in 
Hachiman-suji, Yabu Meizan. 197 
Dojima Naka Ni-chome (Satsuma 
porcelain a speciality). 

Silk Mercers. — Mitsukoshi, at Ko- 
rai-bashi; Takashima-ya, Daimaru, 
Sogo, all in Shinsai-bashi-suji. 

Electric trams along the main 
thoroughfares, but jinrikishas more 
convenient. Useful trams to Kobe, 
Kyoto, Sumiyoshi, and Sakai. 

Small steamers run up and down 
the river. For steam communica- 
tion to Awaji and Inland Sea 
ports, see Routes 48 and 47 respec- 
tively. 

Urban Bailv:ay. This forms a 
semi-circle round the city, the 
principal stations being Umeda 
(connecting with Kyoto and Kobe), 
Minato-machi (connecting with 
Kwansai Railway and Nara Rail- 
way), Kamba (for Sumiyoshi and 
Sakai) and Tennoji. 



This wealthy commercial city covers 
an area of 9 square miles. The ancient 
name of the city, still used in poetry, 
was Naniwa, said to be a corruption of 
nami hay a "wave-swift," or nami liana, 
"wave flowers," because the fleet of 
Jimmu Tenno here encountered a 
boisterous sea. 

Osaka lies upon the banks of the 
Yodogawa, a river draining Lake Biwa. 
Naka-no-shima, an island in the centre 
of the stream, divides the river into 
two courses of about equal width. 
The scene here on summer evenings is 
of the gayest description. Hundreds of 
boats float lazily upon the water, filled 
with citizens who resort thither to enjoy 
the cool breezes, while itinerant mu- 
sicians' vendors of refreshments and 
fireworks, etc., ply amongst the merry 
throng, doing a thriving business. The 
city is also intersected by numerous 
canals, which necessitate a great number 
of bridges, and give it an appearance that 
may remind some travellers of Holland. 
Osaka always suffers to a greater degree 
than other cities in the empire from 
epidemics, probably due to contami- 
nation carried by so much water com- 
munication. The three great bridges 
across the Yodogawa are called Temma- 
bashi, Tenjin-bashi, and Naniwa-bashi. 
The principal thoroughfare is called 
Shinsai-bashi-suji, which its fine shops, 
theatres, and bustling aspect render one 
of the most interesting streets in Japan. 
In summer, it derives quite an Oriental 
appearance from the curtains stretched 
across it to keep out the sun, and from 
the bright hues of many of the articles, of 
merchandise. Since about 1890, the as- 
pect of the city has been greatly changed 
by the building of cotton mills and other 
factories. Extensive harbour and recla- 
mation works have also been undertaken. 
The custom-house and the wharves for 
the steamers that ply between Osaka and 
Kobe, Shikoku, and the ports of the 
Inland Sea stand in the district of 
Kawaguchi. 

The sights of Osaka are best 
visited in the following order. 
Leaving the hotel, we see 1. a large 
bronze horse erected as a memorial 
to the horses that perished in the 
Russo-Japanese war. Then cross- 
ing the river by the large Naniwa- 
bashi bridge, we notice r. some float- 
ing tea-houses anchored in the 
stream, and soon reach the popular 
temple of 

Tenjin, or Temmangu (see p. 
54). This shrine, founded in the 
10th century, contains a few good 



308 



Route 36. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



carvings and bronzes, and the ex- 
voto sheds have several interesting 
pictures. In the grounds behind, 
there are several live storks, and in 
a pond large numbers of tortoises. 

The principal festival is held on the 
25th July, when the god pays a visit 
to Matsushima, some 2 miles south of 
another shrine dedicated to him at Tern- 
ma, and a torchlight procession takes 
place. A procession of boats on the river 
in connection with this festival is worth 
seeing. There is another festival on the 
25th October. 

The Mint (permits obtainable at 
the hotels), organised in 1871 by a 
staff of British officials, has been 
under Japanese management since 
1889. Besides the Mint proper, 
there are sulphuric acid works and 
a refinery. 

Just before reaching the Castle, 
we pass 1. the Military Club, in 
front of which stands a bronze 
monument shaped like a lighted 
candle, raised to the memory of the 
loyalist soldiers who fell in the 
various civil wars of the last reign. 

The Castle (permits obtainable 
at the hotels). 

When Hideyoshi set about the building 
of this castle in 1583, labourers were 
drawn from all parts of the country (ex- 
cept the domain of Ieyasu), and the work 
was completed in two years. The palace 
thus raised within the castle was prob- 
ably the grandest building which Japan 
ever boasted. It survived the taking of 
the castle by Ieyasu in 1615, and in 1867 
and 1868 the members of the foreign 
legations were received within its walls by 
the last of the Tokugawa Shoguns. On 
February 2,1888, the buildings within the 
castle were set on fire by the Tokugawa 
party before their final retreat and 
completely destroyed.— Will Adams, and 
his contemporary Captain John Saris, 
give in the quaint style of those days, 
a good idea of the splendour of the 
palace and the extent of the city at the 
opening of the 17th century. Adams 
says : — " I was carried in one of the King's 
gallies to the court at Osaca, where the 
King lay about eightie leagues from the 
place where the shippe was. The twelfth 
of May 1600, I came to the great King's 
citie who caused me to be brought into 
the court, beeing a wonderfull costly 
house guilded with gold in abundance." 
Saris' account is as follows :— " We found 
Ozaca to be a very great towne, as great 
as London within the walls, with many 



faire timber bridges of a great height, 
seruing to passe ouer a river there as 
wide as the Thames at London. Some 
faire houses we found there but not 
many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports 
of all Jipan: hauing a castle in it, mar- 
vellous large and strong, with very deepe 
trenches about it, and many drawbridges, 
with gates plated with yron. The castle 
is built all of free stone, with bulwark 
and battlements, with loope holes for 
smal shot and arrowes, and diuers pass- 
ages for to cast stones upon the assaylants. 
The walls are at the least sixe or seuen 
yards thicke all (as I said) of free-stone, 
without any filling in the inward part 
with trumpery, as they reported unto me. 
the stones are great, of an excellent 
quarry, and are cut so exactly to fit the 
place where they are laid, that no morter 
is used, but onely earth cast betweene to 
fill up voyd creuises if any be." — Ex- 
cluding the palace, this remains an ex- 
cellent description of the locality as seen 
to-day. The huge stones forming the 
walls of the principal gate of the castle 
attest the magnificent design of its 
founder. Outside the present fortress 
ran a second line of moat and parapet, 
the moat varying in width from 80 yds. 
to 120 yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 23 
ft. Only some of the small turrets on 
the walls now remain^ The castle is the 
head-quarters of the Osaka garrison. 

The size of the stones, all granite, 
used in the construction of the 
walls is stupendous, some measur- 
ing as much as 40 ft. long by 10 ft. 
in height, and being several ft. in 
thickness. The moats are paved 
with granite throughout. The view 
from the top of the platform on 
which stood the donjon is very ex- 
tensive, embracing Hiei-zan to the 
N.E., Koya-san to the S., Kongo-san 
and other high mountains of 
Yamato to the S.E. Immediately 
below is a noted well called 
Kim-mei-sui, lit. " Famous Golden 
Water," which furnished a sufficient 
supply for the garrison in time of 
siege. 

The famous Buddhist temple of 

Tennoji, occupies a vast extent 
of ground on the S.E. of the city. 

It was founded by the illustrious Im- 
perial devotee, Shotoku Taishi, about A.D. 
600, but has frequently fallen into decay, 
and been renovated at the expense of 
either the Mikados or the Shoguns. 



Tennoji. Bbngwanji Temples. 



309 



On entering the great south gate, 
we find ourselves in a large open 
space, the centre of which is occu- 
pied by a square colonnade, open 
on the inner side. On the r. is a 
shrine called Taishi-do, dedicated 
to Shdtoku Taishi. It is a building 
of unpainted wood, roofed with 
thick shingles. Opposite this is a 
shrine containing the Indb no kane, 
or " Bell of Leading," which is rung 
in order that the Saint-Prince may 
conduct the dead into paradise. 
Dolls, toys, and children's dresses 
are offered up before it. Further 
on is a building which contains a 
curious stone chamber, with water 
pouring into it from the mouth of 
a stone tortoise. The names of 
those recently dead are written on 
thin slips of bamboo, and held at 
the end of a long stick in the 
sacred stream, which also carries 
petitions to Shdtoku Taishi on 
behalf of the departed souls. Be- 
yond is a pond swarming with live 
tortoises. It is partly covered over 
by a large new stone dancing-stage, 
which also serves as a bridge to the 
Bokuji-do temple opposite. Close 
by is another Indb no kane. 
Immediately behind the dancing- 
stage is the belfry, where hangs a 
bronze bell cast in 1902, and said 
to be the largest in the world. A 
small charge is made for admission. 

Its dimensions are thus stated : length, 
26 ft. ; diameter of the mouth, 16 ft. ; 
thickness, 1.6 ft. ; weight, over 155 tons. 
At the ceremony of the first ringing of 
the bell, held in 1908, no less than 250 
priests officiated. About £00 geisha were 
also present ! 

The lofty five-storied Pagoda is 
free. The Kondb, or Golden Hall, 
is about 54 ft. by 48 ft. ; the highly 
decorated shrine within is dedicated 
to Nyo-i-rin Kwan-non. The im- 
age, which is copper gilt, is said to 
have been the first Buddhist image 
ever brought to Japan from Korea ; 
but that honour is also claimed for 
the triple image at Zenkoji (p. 245). 
Various treasures dating from the 



7th and 8th centuries are preserved 
at Tennoji. 

Below the temple grounds is a 
new Public Park, where various 
exhibitions are held. Leaving this, 
we soon find ourselves by the side of 
the Dbtombori canal in a street 
consisting chiefly of theatres, 
variety shows,_ and restaurants. 
This part of Osaka is especially 
lively at night. Turning to the r. 
at the Ebisu-bashi, we cross into the 
Shinsai-bashi-suji, about half-way 
down which, a little to the 1., aTe 
two temples belonging to the Hon- 
gwanji sect of Buddhists. The first 
is the Higashi Hongwanji, 
built about the year 1615. It 
contains some fine massive open- 
work carvings. On the r. of the 
courtyard is a white-plastered 
building, containing a copy of the 
Buddhist canon, with a figure 
of Fu-Daishi in front. The Nishi 
Hong-wanji stands a few hundred 
yards further north in the same 
street. Its gateway is a beautiful 
example of the application of the 
chrysanthemum in tracery and 
open-work carving. On the main 
altar is a statue of Amida 3 ft. 6 in. 
high, with the abbot Shinran 
Shonin on his 1., in a richly carved 
and gilded shrine. 

2. — exctjesion fbom osaka : 

Sumiyoshi. Sahai. 

AVakayama. 

_ The most interesting places near 
Osaka all lie on the Kankai Bail-way, 
which runs SAY. along the coast to 
Wakayama (2J hrs.). The following 
is the schedule. (There is also an 
electric tram as far as Hamadera.) 



° _ * 
r$ C 3 


Names 

of 
Stations 


Remarks 


2 Jin. 

H 

5 


OSAKA (Namba) 
Tenga-jaya 

Sumiyoshi 

Yamato-gawa 


( Alight for 
( temple 



310 



Route 36. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



H 


SAKAI 




7} 


Minato 




H 


Hamadera 




12! 


Otsu 




16j 


Kishiwada 




18 


Kaizuka 




2U 


Sano 




25£ 


Tarui 




27 


Ozaki 




291 


Hako-tsukuri 




33j 


Fuke 




39 


WAKAYAMA- 
SHI 


(Wakayama 
| has two sta- 
( tions, 





The large embankment seen be- 
tween Osaka and Tenga-jaya is that 
of the railway to Nara. 

Tenga-jaya is so called because 
Hideyoshi, when lord of the em- 
pire, had a villa there, which is 
still maintained. It stands in a 
small grove, visible to the 1. from 
the carriage windows. The name 
of this place is familiar to all 
Japanese theatre-goers, as the 
scene of a famous vendetta. The 
entrance to the 

Temple of Sumiyosai is pass- 
ed just before reaching the station 
of that name. Here are worshipped 
three sea-gods, who, according to 
legend, assisted the Empress Jingo 
in her expedition to Korea. Great 
crowds flock hither on festival days 
(every U-no-hi, or " Day of the 
Hare") and at New Year. Outside 
are innumerable stone lanterns 
presented as ex-votos. In the pond, 
over which passes a semi-circular 
bridge, live a number of tortoises 
with water-weed growing on their 
backs. These are popularly known 
as rnlno-game, — from mino, the 
grass-coat worn by peasants in 
rainy weather, and kame, a tortoise. 
The Yamato-gawa is crossed near 
its mouth before entering 

Sakai (Inns, Kawayoshi, semi- 
Europ. ; B6kai-ro), a large manu- 
facturing centre. Its tine beach 
called Chinu-ga-ura, which is lined 
with tea-houses, attracts many 
visitors from Osaka during the 
summer months. The view thence 
includes Rokko-zan to the r., Kobe 
straight in front, the island of 
Awaji to the L, and still further 1. 



the hills that separate the province 
of Izumi from that of Kishu. The 
lofty chimneys are those of brick 
kilns, and of coke and cotton 
factories. Sakai also produces a 
large amount of cutlery, sake, and 
cosmetic powder. But the most 
characteristic industry is the 
manufacture of excellent cotton 
rugs and carpets (Sakai dantsu). 
They are of two kinds, — ori-dashi 
(colours woven in), and some-komi 
(colours dyed). The former are 
the handsomer and much the more 
durable. Hideous specimens are 
now made to foreign order. 

In the 16th century Sakai was one of the 
most flourishing of the Roman Catholic 
mission stations, and is frequently men- 
tioned by the Jesuits and other early 
writers. Will Adams thus describes it: 
" Right over against Ozaka, on the other 
side of the riuer, lyeth another great 
Towne called Sacey, but not so bigge as 
Ozaka, yet is a towne of great trade for 
all the Hands thereabout. " 

The neatly kept temple of Myo- 
kokuji, belonging to the Nichiren 
sect of Buddhists, has a three-sto- 
ried pagoda with elaborate carvings 
by Hidari Jingoro. The sanctum 
in the main buildings is handsome. 
In the grounds are some far-famed 
specimens of the sotetsu (Cycas 
revoluta), which resembles the sago- 
palm. 

They were planted here about the 
middle of the 16th century. Ieyasu car- 
ried the best away to his own residence 
in 1582, but finding that it refused to 
flourish there, restored it to its home. 
It is popularly believed that this tree, 
the name of which means "revival by 
iron/' gains much benefit from that 
metal, and accordingly iron coins and 
myriads of broken needles will here be 
noticed round the roots. The needles 
are thrown there by the women of the 
country-side, for the purpose of giving 
the fittest sepulture to the most precious 
instrument of feminine toil. 

In the front court of this temple lie 
buried eleven warriors of the Tosa clan, 
who were condemned to disembowel 
themselves (perform harakiri) for having 
shot down the same number of unarmed 
French sailors in the spring of 1868. 
This form of capital punishment, barbar- 
ous as it may seem to Europeans, was at 



Wakayama. Kimii-dera. 



311 



that time recognised as a privilege of the 
samurai class, and preferred by them to 
simple decapitation. 

On the S. E. of Sakai is the 
tumulus of Nintoku Tennb (an early 
Mikado). It is a double mound 
(misasagi), whose northern summit 
is 84 ft. high, the southern 100 ft,, 
while the circuit of the base 
measures 1,526 yds. It is sur- 
rounded by a double moat, and in 
the immediate neighbourhood are 
nine smaller tumuli. 

Proceeding along the coast from 
Sakai, the train passes r. Hamadera 
(Europ. restt. in park), standing in 
a pine groye and frequented for 
the sake of its cold and hot sea- 
water baths. Kishiicada and Kai- 
zuka together form one large town ; 
Ushltaki-yama, in the neighbour- 
hood, being noted for its maples 
and waterfall. Tarui is a popular 
bathing resort with a large inn on 
the sea shore. At Fuke, the line 
turns inland through pine-clad 
hills and a tunnel cut under the 
Klshi-goe pass, whence down in a 
few minutes to 

Wakayama. (Inn, *Arita-ya, in 
x\Iaru-no-uchi, close to Castle). 

This large place, now the capital of the 
prefecture of Wakayama, -was formerly 
the castle-town of the Daimyos of Kishu, 
who were descended from the eighth son 
of the Shogun Ieyasu, and endowed with 
a fief of 555,000 Tcoku of rice. The family 
held very exalted rank, being one of the 
three distinguished by the title of Go 
iSan-ke (p. 2J6), for which reason their 
castle was spared the demolition suffered 
by so many after the restoration. 

Wakayama possesses three attrac- 
tions, — the castle of its former 
lords, the temple of Kimii-dera, and 
the scenery of Waka-no-ura. Ail 
three lie in the same direction, — 
south from the inn, — and can be 
done in a single afternoon, though 
the pleasanter plan is to devote a 
whole day to loitering about the 
beautiful neighbourhood of Kimii- 
dera and Waka-no-ura. The town 
has little trade, the only manu- 
facture worth mention being a 



cotton material called men-furan, 
which simulates the appearance of 
flannel, and is widely used among 
the lower classes, not only of 
Japan, but of China and Korea. 
Timber, floated down the Kinokawa, 
is also exported. 

The Castle of Wakayama (now 
thrown open to the public for a 
trifling fee) is probably the most 
perfect extant specimen of that 
style of architecture in Japan ; 
for though strictly ancien regime, 
it dates only from about 1850, just 
before that regime had begun to 
totter, and even the sword and 
spear-racks in the lower story are 
still intact, the wood looking as 
new as if only put in place yes- 
terday. The building, which is 
three-storied, crowns a densely 
wooded hill, and exhibits the pecu- 
liarity, that part of its fortifications 
rise directly from the neighbouring 
roadway, without being protected 
by a moat. Some gigantic camphor- 
trees adorn the grounds. The 
panorama from the top includes : — 
W., the mouth of the Kinokawa and 
the sea ; S., in the distance, the 
mountains of Arida, the land of 
oranges ; E., other nearer mountains 
of which Byu-mon-zan is the 
highest, the fertile valley of the 
Kinokawa studded with villages, 
the mountains about Koya-san, then 
Kongo-san and the other mountains 
of Yamato ; N.E., the Katsuragi 
range which shuts in the valley at 
no great distance, the lowest point 
being the Onoyama-toge leading 
over to Sakai; and N.W., the pro- 
montory of Kada which almost 
seems to touch the island of Awaji, 
to whose 1. the mountains of Awa 
in Shikoku are visible in the blue 
distance. The hill to the r. on 
leaving the castle has been laid out 
as a small park. 

Kimii-dera lies 30 min. from 
"Wakayama by electric tram. It is No. 
2 of the Thirty-three Holy Places, 
belongs to the Shingon sect, and is 
said to have been founded in A.D. 
770 by a Chinese missionary named 



312 



Route 36. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. 



I-kwan, though the present Hondo 
is only some two and a half 
centuries old. 

According to legend, the reason for 
building the temple in this particular spot 
was the discovery here, under a tree, of 
a miraculous image of the Eleven-faced 
Kwannon, now enshrined in a large reli- 
quary behind the high altar. As this 
image was far too sacred to be exposed to 
public gaze, I-kwan carved another, of 
the Thousand-handed Kwannon, for the 
adoration of the common herd. This 
stands in a recess to the r. of the reli- 
quary just mentioned. Chief festivals, 
18th March and 9th July. 

Though Kimii-dera is doubtless 
a fine temple finely situated, its 
chief glory is its view, — not a very 
extensive one, but characteristically 
Japanese. The spectator himself, 
from the temple court or the priests' 
handsome reception rooms, stands 
just at the height above the view 
that an artist would choose ; and he 
looks out W. towards the sea over 
a delightful labyrinth of land and 
water, of which the principal feature 
is the narrow strip of land, over 
1 mile long, called 

Waka-no-ura. 

A sandy peninsula, narrow and fan- 
tastically overgrown with pines, enclosing 
a little bay, and having islands or hills 
near to it, is the Japanese beau ideal of 
scenery, their taste being not for the 
savage, Alpine, overpowering grandeur, 
but for the aesthetic, the soft, the well- 
proportioned in form and line, — the 
civilised, if one may so express it. Poets 
have sung the beauty of this spot ever 
since Japan has had a literature. The 
following stanza by Akahito (see p. 70) is 
familiar to every lover of Japanese litera- 
ture : — 

Waka-no-ura ni 

Shio michi-kureba 
Kata wo nami 

Ashibe wo sashite 

Tazu naki-wataru 

that is, rendered literally, 

•* On the shore of Waka 
When the tide comes flowing in 
There being no dry land, 
Towards the reedy place 
The storks fly across crying." 

The reeds of a thousand years ago are 
commemorated chiefly in the name of 



an inn, the Ashibe-ya; there are now few, 
if any storks left, for the law which pro- 
tected them as sacred birds lapsed when 
feudalism fell ; and most of the pine- 
trees on the peninsula were hewn down 
when they, too, ceased to be protected by 
immemorial custom. The peasants took 
it into their heads that the shade of the 
pine-tree was injurious to the fields be- 
hind. Now the same peasants would 
give much to have the trees back again, 
as the sea spray, which they warded off, 
blasts the crops. 

Leaving Kimii-dera, we return by 
tram the way we came for a few 
min. to Waka-no-ura station. 

The names of the principal spots 
visited at Waka-no-ura are Ashibe- 
no-ura (where the Ashibe-ya inn 
stands), Imose-yama, Shiogama, 
Tamatsu-shima, Tengu-yama, the 
hamlet of Dejima, and Gongen- 
yama. It is worth mounting 
Tengu-yama for the sake of the 
view : that from Gongen-yama is 
also admired. What one chiefly 
goes out to see is a group of little 
hills, whose curious rocks and 
fantastic pine-trees (sagari-matsu) 
form a natural landscape garden, 
of which piety has availed itself to 
erect a pagoda and several shrines. 
The rock is called Kishu-ishi by the 
Japanese, to whom its beautiful 
slate-like apx>earance recommends 
it for use in the gardens of the 
wealthy. 

The tram stops about half-way at 
the Shinto Temple of Akiha-san, 
a branch of the shrine referred to 
on p. 234. The Wakayama Akiha- 
san is famous for its maple-trees, 
and for a Buddhist temple with 
images of the Five Hundred Rakan. 

A walk or jinrikisha ride along 
the coast S. from Kimii-dera, afford- ■ 
ing lovely views, is that to Shiotsu 
on the way to Kumano (see Route 
42), or to the Fude-sute-matsu near 
Fujishiro on the way to Shiotsu. 

Another trip to be recommended 
is to Kada, where stands a temple 
for which women have a special 
devotion. The distance from 
Wakayama to Kada is 5^m. by light 
railway. 



Pj&ita/*//// 




commemoratea cmeny m me name 01 j lauwa;. 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



313 



Those desirous of varying the 
return journey may take train to 
Nara, or they might follow Rte. 40 
reversed. There is also constant 
steam communication between 
"Wakayama and Tanabe, Kushimoto, 
and other little ports in the Kishu- 
Ise peninsula, ending up at Yok- 
kaichi. 



KOTJTE 37. 



[Kyoto and Neighboukhood. 

1. kyoto. 2. envibons: arashi- 
yama rapids, hiei-zan. taea.o- 
zan. kueama-yama. iwasht- 

MIZU. 

Kyoto (also called Saikyo, for- 
merly Miyako) is If hr. from Kobe 
by train. The whole surrounding 
district is often spoken of as 
Eamigata. 

Hotels. — *Miyako Hotel, 35 min. 
from station ; *Kyoto Hotel, in 
town ; Daibutsu Hotel. 

Japanese Inns. — Nakamura-ro, 
semi-Europ., at Gion; Tawara-ya, 
Hiragi-ya, Sawa-bun, all in Fuya- 
cho. 

Japanese Restaurants. — Hyotei, 
Hachishin. 

Theatres and other places of 
amusement, in Shin-Kyogoku. 

Central Post and Telegraph Office, 
in Sanjo-dori Higashi-no-T6in. 

Kyoto is noted for its pottery 
and porcelain, its embroideries, cut 
velvets and brocades, its bronzes, 
lacquer, damascene, and cloisonne. 
The following shops may be re- 
commended : — 

Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko- 
zan, at Awata, where manufacture 
on a large scale for export is car- 
ried on; Kyoto Tojiki Kwaisha, at 
Shirakawa-bashi ; Seifu, Nishida, at 



Gojd-zaka. There are many other 
manufacturers and dealers at Kiyo- 
mizu-zaka and at Gojd-zaka ; but 
they work mostly on a small scale. 

New Embroidery, Velvets, and 
Mercery. — Nishimura, at Sanjo 
Karasu-maru ; Takashima-ya, at 
Karasu-maru Takatsuji ; Daimaru- 
ichi, at Otabi-cho ; Tanaka Kishichi 
or Aburari, at Karasu-maru Shichi- 
jo; Kawashima, at Sanjo Higashi- 
no-T6in ; Benten, at Shin-monzen. 

Old Embroideries, etc. — Nomura, 
at Shin-monzen. 

Bronze and Damascene Ware. — 
E. Jomi (Shojodo), at Tera-machi 
Shijo ; Kogawa, in Otabi-cho ; 
O. Komai, in Furu-mon-zen Mi- 
yoshi-cho ; S. Komai, at Shin-Mon- 
zen ; K. I. Kuroda, 19, Tera-machi 
Shijo. 

Curios. — Yamanaka, at Awata ; 
Hayashi, at Furu-mon-zen ; Z. 
Matsuki, Shin-monzen ; Kyukyo- 
do, at Tera-machi Ane-ga-koji 
for incense seals, etc. Urano, in 
Tera-machi makes a specialty of 
arms and armour. The street called 
Manjiiji-ddri is almost entirely 
tenanted by curio-dealers of the 
more old-fashioned sort. 

Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at Sanjo- 
Kita-ura Shirakawa-bashi ; Kin-un- 
ken, at Sanjo Shirakawa-bashi ; 
Takahara, in Sanjo-dori. 

Lacquer. — Nishimura, at Tera- 
machi Aya-no-koji. 

Bamboo Work. — Ishii Shoten, in 
Gion-machi. 

Fans, dolls, and Toys. — Ishizumi, 
at Yanagi-no-Bamba Aya-no-koji ; 
Shimizu, at Tomi-no-koji Shijo. 

Guides. — Trustworthy licensed 
guides can be engaged at the hotels. 

Electric Tramways run through 
the city ; but foreign visitors will 
find jinriMshas or carriages more 
convenient. 

Religious Services. — Protestant, 
as advertised from time to time in 
the hotels ; Roman Catholic Church, 
behind the Kyoto Hotel. 

The Mikado's Palaces ( Gosho and 
Xijo no Rikyu), together with the 
Imperial villas (Katsura no Rikyu 



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314 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



and Shugaku-in) are not open to 
the public, permits being only 
obtainable by favour of the foreign 
embassies. Travellers may easily 
console themselves with the Apart- 
ments of the Awata Palace, of 
Nanzenji, or any of the other great 
temples, which, having been in- 
habited at various times by certain 
Mikados, were fitted up more or less 
in the same j)alatial style. Kyoto's 
other greatest buildings are the 
San-jii-san-gen-do, Nishi and Higa- 
slii Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion, 
and Chion-in temples, and the Tai- 
kyoku-den, in addition to which at 
least one of the celebrated landscape 
gardens — say Kinkakuji or Gin- 
kakuji — should be visited, as they 
are among the most characteristic 
products of Japanese gestheticism. 
The best general view of Kyoto is 
usually considered to be obtained 
from a hill called Shogun-zuka, 
just behind the Chion-in Temple; 
but it has been somewhat obstruct- 
ed of late years by the growth 
of trees. Pairly good views of the 
city and neighbourhood may be 
gained with less trouble from the 
Shinto memorial to dead warriors 
[Shokon-hi) above Kodaiji, and from 
the Yasaka Pagoda. Kiyomizu-dera 
and the Yoshimizu tea-house close 
to the Chion-in, also command 
excellent views. Those with money 
in their purse should devote atten- 
tion to the shops, which are perhaps 
the most attractive in Japan. 

No one visiting Kyoto during 
the cherry-blossom season in April 
should fail to see the Miyako odori, 
a fascinating kind of ballet given 
every evening from 5 to 10 o'clock 
at Hanami-koji, near the Gion-za 
Theatre. Pretty dances also take 
place here on a few evenings early 
in November (the maple season). 
The school (Nybkoba) hard by, where 
the dancing-girls are also taught 
other elegant accomplishments, 
such as the tea ceremonies and the 
art of floral arrangement, may be 
visited at other times of the year. 

Very characteristic, too, is the 



manner in which the citizens take 
the air on summer evenings in that 
part of the bed of the Kamogawa 
which is crossed by the Shijo 
Bridge. Little tables are placed in 
the dry spaces, to which miniature 
bamboo bridges lead from either 
bank ; and there the people sit 
eating and drinking, and fanning 
themselves, and listening to the 
music of singing-girls. This is 
known as Shijo-gawara no suzumi. 
The various religious festivals 
(matsuri) at Kyoto are curious and 
interesting, more especially the 
Gion Matsuri on the 17th and 24th 
July, and the Inari Matsuri in May. 
The processions, which parade the 
streets on these and other occasions 
mentioned below, form an attractive 
feature of popular life. 

Though a superficial acquaint- 
ance with Kyoto may be gained in 
a couple of days, at least a week is 
necessary to form an adequate idea 
of its manifold beauties. Owing to 
the gradual shrinking of the city in 
modern times, many of the best 
sights are some distance away in 
the outskirts, and much time is 
spent in going from one to another. 
Two or three hours will be saved 
by taking sandwiches with one, 
instead of returning to the hotel 
for lunch. The following is offered 
as a sketch of the order in which 
the various sights of Kyoto may 
best be visited. Careful sightseers 
will scarcely be able to see all that 
we have crowded into one day for 
the guidance of such as are pressed 
for time ; but they can resume next 
day at the point where they left off, 
as the order follows regularly round 
the points of the compass, beginning 
with the north-central portion of 
the city : — 

1st Day. — The Mikado's Palace, 
— even a passing glance at the 
exterior is better than nothing, — 
Kita-no-Tenjin, Kinkakuji, T6ji-in, 
the Nijo Palace. 

2nd Day. — Higashi Hongwanji, 
the temples of Inari at Pushimi, 



General Information. 



315 



Tdfukuji, San-ju-san-gen-dd, the 
Daibutsu, the Art Museum. 

3rd Day. — Nishi Otani, Kiyomizu- 
dera, the Yasaka Pagoda, Kodaiji, 
Shogun-zuka, Alaruyama, Higashi 
Otani, Gion, Chion-in. 

4th Day. — Awata Palace, Tai- 
kyoku-den, Nanzenji, Eikwandd, 
Kurodani, Shinnyodo, Ginkakuji, 
Shugaku-in (or Shimo-Gamo and 
Kami-Gamo). 

5th Day. — The Rapids of the 
Kutsura-gawa, Arashi-yama, Saga- 
no-Shaka-do. 

6th Day. — Hiei-zan. — Or else by 
tram or train to Otsu on Lp„ke Biwa, 
jinrikisha to Miidera, Karasaki, 
Ishiyama, and back by the same 
conveyance or by canal boat. — Or, 
thirdly, jinrikisha, tram or train to 
Otsu, whence steamer across Lake 
Biwa to Hikone, where lunch, and 
back by train (see Koute 38). 

7 th Day. — The silk, bronze, and 
cloisonne shops. — A visit to the 
Commercial Museum and the Bazaar 
should first be made in order to 
gain some idea of the articles to be 
obtained and where they may be 
purchased. 

Should any be so unfortunate as 
to have but a single day at their 
command, they might devote the 
morning to either the Higashi 
Hongwanji temple, the San-ju-san- 
gen-do, the Museum, and Chion-in ; 
then, after lunch, proceed — skirting 
the Palace — to Kitano Tenjin and 
Kinkaku-ji, ending up with a visit 
to some of the shops. 

History and Topography. — From the 
earliest ages, the seat of the .Mikado's 
rule was generally in the province of 
Yamato ; but owing to the ancient custom 
of not continuing to inhabit the house of 
a deceased parent, the actual site was 
usually changed at the commencement of 
each reign. At the beginning of the 8th 
century the capital was established at 
Nara, where it remained until A.D. 784, 
when the reigning sovereign Kwammu 
moved to Nagaoka, a spot at the foot of 
the hills about half way between Yarna- 
zuki and Arashi-yama in the province of 
Yamashiro. In 793, he selected a fresh 
site at the village of Uda in the same 
province, and transferred his Court thi- 
ther towards the end of the following 



year. In order to conciliate fortune, he 
is said to have bestowed on his new capi- 
tal the name of Heian-jo, or the City of 
Peace; but this never came into use as 
the common designation of the city, 
which was spoken of as Miyako or Kyoto, 
the former being the Japanese, the latter 
the Chinese word for "metropolis." 
When first laid out in imitation of the 
Imperial capital of China, the site meas- 
ured nearly 3 miles from E. to W., and 
about 3| m. from N. to S. The Palace, 
which occupied about one-fifteenth of 
the area, was situated in the centre of 
the N. side, and a fine street 280 ft. wide 
led from the great gate down to the S. 
gate of the city. Nine wide streets, 
called Ichi-jo, Ni-jo, San-jo, and so on up 
to Ku-jo, intersected the city from E. to 
W., the widest of these measuring 17u ft., 
the narrowest somewhat less than half. 
Similar streets crossing them at right 
angles ran from N. to S. and between 
them at equal distances were lanes each 
40 ft. in width. A double ditch, backed 
by a low wall with a gate at the end of 
each principal street, surrounded the 
whole of this huge square. In 1177 the 
Palace was destroyed by fire, and three 
years later the seat of government was 
removed by the ail-powerful minister 
Kiyomori to Fukuwara, the modern town 
of Hyogo. The Court, however, soon 
returned to Kyoto, where it remained 
stationary until 1868. Both the city and 
the Palace have repeatedly fallen a prey 
to the flames, and as often been rebuilt, 
as far as possible in the original style. 
The present Palace was erected after the 
great fire of ]854. Since the foundation 
of Yedo in 15i;0, Kyoto has gradually 
declined in size and importance. Its 
population is only half of what it is 
estimated to have held during the Middle 
Ages; and from Shichi-jo-dori southwards, 
what once formed busy thoroughfares is 
now laid out in market-gardens. 

Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which, 
for the greater part of the year, is a mere 
rivulet meandering over a wide pebbly 
bed, where linen is spread out to bleach. 
On the 1. bank of the river are the 
suburbs of Awata and Kiyomizu, between 
which lie many of the most interesting 
buildngs. The town of Eushimi to the 
S. may also be acconnted a suburb. The 
chief modern addition to the topography 
of Kyoto, besides the various railway 
lines, is the Lake Biwa Canal which con- 
nects the neighbouring large lake with 
the Kamogawa, as described in Route 38. 

The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets, 
apparently complicated, is in reality quite 
simple, being founded on a reference to 
the points of the compass and to the con- 
tour of the land, which is slightly higher 
on the N. than on the S. Thus the ex- 
pression Shijo-dori Teramachi Higashi iru 
signifies that portion of the Shijo or 
Fourth Thoroughfare which lies a little 



316 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood, 



to the E. of the East and West intersec- 
tion of that thoroughfare by Teramachi. 
Teramachi-dori Shijo sagaru signifies the 
portion of the North and South Thorough- 
fare called Teramachi lying a little to the 
south of the intersection of that thorough- 
fare by Shijo-dori, the term sagaru, "to 
descend," being naturally applied to the 
south, as agaru, " to ascend," is to the 
north. The lanes mentioned higher up 
are called Kbji, whence such addresses as 
Teramachi-dori Ane-ga-Kbji, which means 
" Ane Lane off the Teramachi Thorough- 
fare." 

Some curious artificial scars or clear- 
ings are observed on carefully scanning 
the pine-clad hills near the city. In these 
clearings, bonfires are lighted every 16th 
August, at the close of the Bon festival 
(Feast of Lanterns). The most con- 
spicuous of these marks is what is called 
the Dai Monji, or " Chinese character for 
Great," which is written thus, ^C. It is 
situated to the N.E. of the city. To the 
N. W. is the Hidari Dai Monji, or 
" Character for Great reversed," thus ^, 
the difference between the two, though 
slight to European eyes, being instantly 
perceptible to any Japanese. There are 
several more of these marks, which the 
guide will point out. 

The Mikado's Palace* (Gosho). 
This large mass of buildings covers 
an area of nearly 26 acres. It is con- 
fined within a roofed wall of earth 
and plaster, commonly called the 
Mi Tsuiji, and has six gates. The 
open space between the wall and 
the Palace was formerly covered 
with lesser buildings, in which 
the Kuge, or Court Nobles, resided. 
It is now cleared and open to the 
public, and in the S.E. corner of it 
is a Bazaar (Hakubutsu-kwan) open 
every year in April and May. 

Visitors are now admitted into 
the Palace through the Mi Daido- 
koro Go-mon, or Gate of the August 
Kitchen, and are first shown into 
a porter's lodge where they sign 
their names in the Palace book; 
thence to a bare ante-chamber 
formerly used as a waiting-room for 
noblemen. The sepia drawings 
here are by Kishi Gantai, Kano Ei- 
gaku, and Hara Zaisho. From there 



* Not accessible to the general public. 
No gratuities accepted here or at the 
other palaces. 



visitors are led through a gallery 
called Denjo, where courtiers former- 
ly dined, to the Seiryb-den, or Pure 
and Cool Hall. 

It is so-called from a; small brook which 
runs under the steps. The foreign visitor 
to these Japanese palaces will probably 
think the term " cool"— not to say chilly 
and draughty — most appropriate. No at- 
tempt was ever made towards heating or 
towards anything which Europeans would 
deem comfort. From an archaeological 
and historical point of view, the Chinese 
aspect of the Seiryo-den and Shishin-den 
has special interest. Notice the double- 
hinged doors now so rare in Japan, and 
the heavy hinged shutters suspended on 
iron rods that hang from the roof ; also 
the Chinese chair inlaid with mother-of- 
pearl on which the Mikado sat, and the 
total absence of mats and of a ceiling. 
Chinese customs prevailed at Court when 
this building was first reared, and eti- 
quette perpetuated the public use of these 
apartments on state occasions. But the 
rooms habitually occupied by modern 
Mikados closely resembled, except for 
greater ornateness, the style of dwelling 
adopted by their subjects. 

The Seiyrb-den faces E., and meas- 
ures 63 ft. by 46J ft. Originally 
this suite of apartments, was the 
ordinary residence of the sovereign ; 
but in later times it was used only 
on the occasion of levees and im- 
portant Shinto festivals, such as 
the worship of the Four Quarters 
on the morning of New Year's day 
In one corner the floor is made of 
cement, on which earth was strewn 
every morning, so that the Mikado 
might worship his ancestors on the 
earth without descending to the 
ground. The papered slides are 
covered with extremely formal 
paintings by Tosa Mitsukiyo. 
Observe the Mikado's throne (Mi 
Chodai), a sort of catafalque with 
delicate silk curtains of white, red, 
and black. The wood of this, as of 
all the buildings, is chamaecyparis. 
the same species as is used for 
the construction of Shinto temples. 
The roofing is of the kind termed 
hiwada-buki, — a sort of thick shin- 
gling, — tiles appearing only on the 
very ridge. The empty sanded 
courts, the white plaster, and the 
red pillars of the walls give to the 



Mikado's Palace. 



317 



Palace a peculiar aspect of solemni- 
ty. Everything, even down to 
mi rm tire, had its name and function, 
and was never changed. For in- 
stance, the two clumps of bamboo 
in front of the Seiryo-den have each 
a name handed down from hoary 
antiquity, one being the Kan-chiku, 
the other the Go-chiku, appellations 
derived from Kan and Go, two 
kingdoms in ancient China. 

From the Seiryo-den the visitor is 
conducted to the Shishin-den, which 
faces S. and measures 120 ft. by 
63 2 i ft. 

The name Shi-shin-den is explained as 
follows : shi is " purple," the true colour 
of the sky or heavens ; shin denotes that 
which is " mysterious" and hidden from 
the vulgar gaze ; den means " hall." This 
building wa3 used for the enthronement 
of the Mikado, for the Xew Year's audi- 
ence, and other important ceremonies. 

The large paintings in the panels 
of this hall represent Chinese sages. 
The originals were executed in A.D. 
838 by the famous Kose-no-Kana- 
oka; but they were destroyed long 
ago, and the present pictures are 
merely copies of copies. The throne, 
though quite modern, is interest- 
ing. The stools on either side of 
it are intended for the Imperial 
insignia, — the sword and the jewel. 
In front a lion and a unicorn keep 
watch. The silken curtains are re- 
newed every spring and autumn. 
Observe that the Mikado sat on a 
chair in this instance, as did all 
those here admitted to an audience. 
A flight of eighteen steps leads down 
into the court, corresponding in 
number to the original series of 
grades into which the officers of 
government were divided. Those 
who were not entitled to stand on 
the lowest step were called Ji-ge, or 
" down on the earth," to distinguish 
them from the Den-jo-bito, or " per- 
sons who ascend into the hall." On 
the 1. is a cherry-tree called Sakon 
no SaJcura, the representative of one 
planted by the Emperor Nimmyo 
(A.D. 831-850). On the r. side is 
the Ukon no Tachibana, a wild 



orange-tree, also a relic of ancient 
custom. 

Sakon and Ukon were the names of 
ancient ranks, and the application of 
them to these trees may be compared to 
the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by 
Charles II. 

A corridor leads from the Shi- 
shin-den to the Ko-Gosho (Minor 
Palace), which consists of three 
rooms decorated both inside and out 
with paintings by modern artists, 
this whole wing having been burnt 
down and restored in 1854. The 
predominating blue colour, laid on 
in bold broad stripes to represent 
clouds, gives a fresh and original 
aspect to this suite, which was used 
for small receptions, poetry meet- 
ings, etc. On each sliding screen, 
poems are pasted explanatory of the 
subjects treated. The outside 
scenes represent the twelve months 
of the year. The rooms look out on 
a landscape garden. From here 
onwards, all the arrangements are 
in thoroughly Japanese style. 

Leaving the Ko-Gosho, we are led 
by another long gallery to the 
Gakumonjo, or Imperial Study, 
where the Mikado's tutors delivered 
lectures, and where courts were 
held for the cultivation of poetry 
and music. The decoration of the 
sliding-screens in this suite calls 
for special remark. The suite of 
three rooms forming the Audience 
Chamber is decorated with Chinese 
scenes, in deep blue and white, by 
Hara Zaisho and other modern 
artists. The ceilings are coffered. 
The first of these rooms, called Ge- 
dan, was for persons of lesser rank ; 
the next Ghudan, for the higher no- 
bility ; the innermost, or Jbdan, for 
the Mikado himself. Most of the 
other rooms take their names from 
the subjects delineated in them. 
The wild-geese in the Gan no Ma 
are by Renzan (Gantoku), d. 1859; 
the screens of the Yamabuki no Ma 
are by Maruyama Oryu; the chry- 
santhemums in the Kiku no Ma, by 
Okamoto Sukehiko. Notice also 



318 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



the wooden doors of this suite paint- 
ed with flowers, monkeys, etc. The 
best are some plum-blossoms by 
Hata Nanrei, and, at the very end, 
some wild-geese and a bear by 
Hara Zaisho. 

Here the show part of the Palace 
ends, the next suite having been 
closed to visitors ever since the 
late Emperor made it his resi- 
dence when passing through Kyoto. 
It consists of a suite of eleven 
rooms, called Tsune Goten, which, 
from the 13th century to the 19th, 
formed the retreat wherein genera- 
tions of sovereigns lived and died. 
The actual structure, however, dates 
only from after the fire of 1854, so 
that the decoration, though brilliant, 
is modern. Beyond this are, or 
were, yet other suites, the residences 
of members of the Imperial family. 
One, called Kashiko-dokoro, or Fear- 
ful Place, in which was preserved 
the sacred mirror of the Sun- 
Goddess, has been transferred to 
Jimmu Tenno's mausoleum in the 
province of Yamato. 

Next door to the Imperial Palace, 
stands one wing — all that remains 
— of a smaller one called Sento 
Goslio,* formerly inhabited by 
Emperors' mothers or other retired 
Imperial personages. The building 
itself need not detain the traveller ; 
but the Garden, or rather park, with 
its ancient trees, is a delightful 
spot. 

The large brick building notice- 
able on the hill r. on quitting the 
Palace, with three others north of 
it, belongs to the Doshisha, which 
was founded in 1875 under the aus- 
pices of the American Board Mis- 
sion and comprises a Middle School, 
a Theological School, and a Girls' 
School. 

Kitano Tenjin, commonly call- 
ed Tenjln Sama, is a highly popular 
temple dedicated to the deity of 
that name. Entering through the 
great stone torii on the S., we find 
stone lanterns, and stone and bronze 

— * Not accessible to the general public. 



bulls presented by devotees. An- 
other torii and two two-storied gates 
are passed through, — the last of 
these being called San-ko no mon, 
or " Gate of the Three Luminaries," 
i.e. the Sun, Moon, and Stars, from 
representations of those heavenly 
bodies which can, however, only be 
distinguished with difficulty among 
the carving on the beams. The 
oratory, built by Hideyori in 1607, 
forms the 1ST. side of a square, the 
other three sides being colonnades, 
with the Gate of the Sun, Moon, 
and Stars of the S. Its dimensions 
are 58 ft. by 24 ft. The numerous 
articles inside, notably metal mir- 
rors, are offerings made by the faith- 
ful. One of the queerest is a set of 
framed pictures of the Thirty-six 
Geniuses of Poetry, made of woven 
stuffs, which have been presented 
by the manufacturers, and thus 
serve as an advertisement. The 
shrine behind, 38J ft, by 32J ft,, is 
separated from the oratory by a 
chamber paved with stone, having 
its roof at right angles to the roofs 
of the oratory and shrine. Behind 
is the Jinushi no Yashiro, or 
"Temple of the Lord of the Soil," 
said to have been founded in A J). 
836, together with numerous other 
small shrines. The treasury is 
built of wooden beams, the section 
of each beam being a right-angled 
triangle with the right angle out- 
side, — a form of construction much 
followed in this district of Japan. 
East of the colonnade are the 
kagura stage and the building in 
which the god's car (mikoshi) is 
kept. 

This temple is a characteristic specimen 
of the mixed or Byobu Shinto (see p. 38) 
style of religious architecture, while the 
numberless stone lanterns, the stone and 
metal bulls,, the ex-voto shed with its 
grotesque pictures, the elaborately carved 
and painted gateways, the swaying lan- 
terns, — all testify to a form of worship 
of the baser popular sort. Sick believers 
may be seen rubbing one of the bronze 
bulls to get relief from their ailments, — 
the bull's chest if their own chest is what 
hurts them, and so on.— The yearly 
festival, with a procession of religious 



Kinkaku-ji. Toji-in. 



319 



cars {Zuiki Matsuri), takes place on the 
4th October. The 25th of each month is 
also specially observed. 

Rirano Jlnja is a dingy Shinto 
temple. The grounds contain cher- 
ry-trees, which are visited at night 
(yo-zakum) during the season of 
bloom. 

Daitokuji possesses an excep- 
tionally large number of Kakemonos 
and other art treasures; but these 
have been kept shut up since the 
temple fell into its present reduced 
circumstances. 

Kinkaku-ji, more properly 
Bokuonji, a temple of the Zen sect, 
takes its popular name from the 
kin-kaku, or " golden pavilion," in 
the grounds attached to it. 

In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshirnitsu, who had 
three years previously resigned the title 
of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi- 
mochi, obtained this place from its 
former owner, and after extending the 
grounds, built himself a palace to serve 
nominally as a retreat from the world. 
Here he shaved his head, and assumed 
the garb of a Buddhist monk, while still 
continuing in reality to direct the affairs 
of state. 

The Garden is artistically laid 
out. In the middle is a lake with 
pine-clad shores and pine-clad is- 
lets, whose quiet charm none 
would expect to find so near to a 
large metropolis. The lake is full 
of a flowering plant called junsai, 
and is stocked with carp, which, 
when visitors appear there, crowd 
together at the stage below the 
Pavilion, in expectation of being 
fed. .111 the palace buildings have 
disappeared, except the Pavilion, 
which was restored in 1908. It 
stands on the water's edge, facing 
S., and is a three-storied building, 
33 ft. by 24 ft. In the lower room 
are gilt statuettes of Amida, Kwan- 
non, and Seishi by the carver Un- 
kei, and a seated effigy of Yoshi- 
rnitsu in priestly garb with shaven 
pate. In the second storey is a 
small Kwannon in an imitation 
rock- work cave, with the Shi-Tennd. 
The paintings on the ceiling, by 
Kano Masanobu, of angels and 



peonies are much dimmed by age. 
The third storey, which was regilt 
in 1906, in exact imitation of the 
14th century original, gives its 
name to the place. On the top of 
the roof stands a bronze phoenix 3 
ft. high, also formerly gilt. 

The large hill seen to the r. from 
the third storey of the Pavilion is 
Ki nukasa-yama . 

This name means " silk hat mountain," 
and was given in allusion to the incident 
of the ex-Mikado Uda having ordered it 
to be spread with white silk one hot day 
in July, in order that his eyes at least 
might enjoy a cool, wintry sensation. 

The guide will probably offer to 
lead the traveller round the grounds 
at the back of the Pavilion, where 
Yoshimitsu's footsteps and doings 
are tracked with minute care, — the 
place where His Highness drank 
tea, the place whence the water for 
his tea came, the place where he 
washed his hands, etc. ; but these 
can have little interest for any but 
a Japanese. The Apartments (17th 
century), on the other hand, deserve 
careful inspection. They are in two 
sets, — one attached to the main 
building (Hondo), with sliding- 
screens of Chinese sages and other 
subjects by Kano Tan-yu ; the other, 
called Shoin, decorated with bold 
sepia drawings of birds and trees 
by Jakuchu, Folding- screens by 
Korin and Sdami, and numerous 
kakemonos by Shubun, Eishin, O- 
kyo, Korin, Sesson, and other cele- 
brated artists, are exhibited from 
time to time. Those most prized 
are two by Ch5 Densu representing 
the three religious teachers, — Con- 
fucius, Buddha, and Lao Tze. 
There are also some very ancient 
images, and various relics and au- 
tographs of the Ashikaga Shdguns 
and other illustrious personages. 
The priest who shows all these 
treasures sometimes ends up by 
treating the visitor to tea in the 
cha-no-yu style. 

T6ji-in, founded in the 14th 
century by Ashikaga Takauji, will 



320 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



interest the historical student as 
containing effigies of nearly all 
the Shoguns of the Ashikaga dy- 
nasty. 

The visitor is first led through 
the priests' rooms, which are rather 
poor, but contain sundry antique 
objects, old screens, kakemonos 
by Kano Tan-yu, fLYe sets of 
sliding-screens by Kano Sanraku, 
representing the Four-and-Twenty 
Paragons of Filial Piety and other 
Chinese scenes. Thence to a paved 
hall at the rear, where he is shown 
a series of seated lacquer figures of 
the Shoguns of the Ashikaga dy- 
nasty in their court robes and black 
court caps, and in their right hand 
the courtier's wand, beginning 1. 
with *(8) Yoshimasa, next (7) Yoshi- 
katsu, (6) Yoshinori II, (4) Yoshi- 
mochi, (3) Yoshimitsu, (2) Yoshinori 
I, (1) Takauji. The far end of this 
hall is occupied by an image of 
Shaka, flanked r. and 1. by Anan 
and Kashd. Returning towards the 
door, we have 1. first the statue of 
Tokugawa Ieyasu, then continuing 
with the Ashikaga dynasty, (9) 
Yoshihisa, (11) Yoshitani, (12) Yoshi- 
zumi, (13) Yoshiharu, — a degener- 
ate-looking dwarfish man, (14) 
Yoshiteru, (15) Yoshiaki, fat and 
sensual in appearance. Most, if 
not all, may be accepted as con- 
temporary portraits of the person- 
ages they represent. Observe that 
in their time (14th, 15th, and 16th 
centuries), the Japanese fashion 
was to wear a moustache and small 
pointed beard. Takauji's simple 
grave stands in the garden behind. 
The inspection of the place con- 
cluded, tea is offered in the cha-no- 
yu style. 

During the period of ferment which 
preceded the restoration of the Mikado's 
authority, it was fashionable among the 
opponents of the feudal regime to load the 
memory of the Ashikaga Shoguns with 
insults that could not safely be offered 
in a direct manner to those of the reign- 



* The numbers in brackets refer to the 
order of each in the dynasty to which 
they all belonged. 



ing Tokugawa line ; and one morning in 
April 1863, the people of Kyoto woke to 
find the heads of the effigies of Takauji, 
Yoshinori, and Yoshimitsu pilloried in 
the dry bed of the Kamogawa at the spot 
where it was then usual to expose the 
heads of criminals. Several of the men 
concerned in this affair were thrown into 
prison, whence they were transferred to 
the custody of certain Daimyos, and not 
released for some years afterwards. 

Ormiro Gosho, founded in the 
ninth century, was burnt down in 
1887, and has only been partially 
restored. Travellers are not advised 
to bestow time on it, unless it be 
ascertained that the art treasures 
are on view. In April, cherry-blos- 
soms adorn the spacious grounds. 
There is a fine five-storied pagoda, 
which, with the big gate and a few 
other of the lesser buildings, es- 
caped the fire. 

Myoshinji. 

This large temple of the Zen sect, 
founded by Kwanzan Kokushi, an abbot 
of the 14th century, was the place of 
retreat of the Emperor Hanazono. Hence 
the suji-bei (see p. 95) characteristic of 
Imperial residences. 

The spacious grounds are adorn- 
ed with magnificent old pine-trees, 
one of which dates from the year 
1462. The temple buildings are 
massive and well-preserved, and 
contain a valuable collection of 
screens, kakemonos, lacquer boxes, 
bronzes, and other treasures. In 
one square building, called the Ho- 
do (or Hatto), used only on occasions 
of great ceremony, the floor is 
tiled, and two rows of large keyaki 
pillars support the ceiling, which is 
entirely occupied by an immense 
dragon from the pencil of Tan-yu 
Morinobu. In another of the same 
style, called Butsu-den, some strik- 
ing coloured images of Shaka, Anan, 
and Kasho are seated on a large 
altar backed by a plain gold ground. 
The Kyodo contains a huge octa- 
gonal revolving bookcase, on the 
sides of which are some ancient and 
curious wood-carvings by Chu-en of 
Buddhist figures (the Eight Tenno) 
amidst rockery, — all coloured and 



Arashiyama. Nijo Castle. 



321 



all in energetic attitudes. The 
image seated in a chair is Fa Dai- 
shi, specially appropriate to the 
place (see p. 45). Leaving these, 
vre walk past the forty-two dwel- 
lings formerly occupied by the 
priests to what is called the Gyoku- 
ho-vu which was the Emperor Hana- 
zono's retreat, and which, like the 
other temple apartments, is pro- 
fusely adorned with painted 
screens by classic artists, and has 
two doors adorned with mother-of- 
pearl, — loot from Korea in the 16th 
century. Thence to the Founder's 
Hall ( kaisando), which is all black, 
—black tiles, black pillars, a black 
lacquered altar, — and finally to the 
tiny Nehan-do, where, on the altar, 
stands a slab of the alloy called 
shakitdo, pourtraying the entomb- 
ment of Buddha. 

Uzumasa is a large and ancient 
temple standing close to Saga sta- 
tion, and containing a number of 
Tery early Buddhist statues, some 
of them brought from Korea. But 
there is now no admittance, except 
by special permit. Fortunately, 
many of these interesting works of 
art are exhibited from time to time 
in the Art Museum (see p. 327). 

Saga no Sh.aka-d.0 is a fine 
temple of the Jodo sect of Bud- 
dhists, the present building being 
about two centuries old. Behind 
the altar is a magnificent gilt shrine 
of Shaka, with painted carvings 
presented by the mother of Iemitsu, 
third Shdgun of the Tokugawa dy- 
nasty. On the doors being opened, 
a curtain is drawn up, which dis- 
closes another set of doors, gilded 
and painted, and then a second 
curtain splendidly embroidered. R. 
and 1. are seated images of Monju 
and Fugen. 

The image of Shaka is said to be Indian, 
and to have been executed from life by 
the sculptor Bishukatsuma ; but it has 
more the appearance of a Chinese work. 
Chonen, a monk of Tolaiji at Xara, is 
said to have brought it over in the year 
987. According to the legend, it was 
carved when Shaka Muni was absent in 
the heaven called Toaotsu-Ten, preaching 



to his mother, during which time his 
disciples mourned over his absence. 
King Uten gave red sandal-wood from his 
stores, and the saint's portrait having 
been drawn from memory by Mokuren, 
the sculptor went to work and speedily 
completed the statue, which was placed 
in the monastry of Gion Shoja. On the 
return of Shaka after an absence of 
ninety days, the image descended the 
steps to meet him, and they entered the 
monastery together. 

The little Shari-do, or "Relic 
Shrine," in the garden behind the 
temple has good wood-carvings. It 
dates from 1897. 

In April and May some fine kake- 
monos, etc., are displayed at the 
neighbouring large temple of Ten- 
ryu-ji, an ancient foundation re- 
stored after destruction in the civil 
war of 1868. 

Arashi-yama (sometimes call- 
ed Banzan) is a picturesque gorge 
of the river Katsura, here called the 
Oigawa, and higher up the Hozu- 
gawa. The hills are everywhere 
covered with pine-trees. There are 
also plantations of cherry-trees, 
brought from Yoshino in the 13th 
century by the Emperor Kame- 
yama, and of maple-trees, which 
add greatly to the natural beauty 
of the spot in spring and autumn. 
The place boasts some good tea- 
houses, especially the Sangen-ya. 
The rafts seen on the river bring 
down timber from the province of 
Tamba. 

The Nijo Castle* (31/5 no 
Rikyu). 

This edifice dates from 1601, when 
Ieyasu built it to serve as a pied-d-terre 
on the occasion of his visits to Kyoto. 
During his time and that of his successors, 
the Tokugawa Shoa^ms, it was known as 
Nijo no shiro, or the Nii'o Castle. On the 
6th April, 1868, the late Mikado, just 
re-invested in his full ancestral rights by 
the revolution then in progress, here 
met the Council of State, and in their 
presence swore to grant a deliberative 
assembly and to decide all measures by 
public opinion. After this, the Castle 
was for some time used as the office of 
the Kyoto Prefecture, but was taken over 
in 1883 as one of the Imperial summer 

* Not accessible to the general public. 



322 



Eoute 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



palaces. Though as many as possible of 
the wall-paintings, being on paper, were 
rolled up and put away during the oc- 
cupation of the palace by the prefecture, 
much harm was done to painted doors 
and to precious metal-work by the almost 
incredible vandalism and neglect which 
ran riot at that period all over Japan, 
when to deface antique works of art was 
considered a sign of civilisation and 
" progress." One of these paintings is 
celebrated in the artistio world under 
the name of Naondbu no nure-sagi (" the 
wet heron by Naonobu "). It represents 
a heron perched on the gunwale of a 
boat. During the reign of prefectural 
vandalism, this precious work of art was 
used as a notice-board to paste notifi- 
cations on! The Sotetsu no Ma, or 
Palmetto Room, was entirely and irre- 
coverably defaced at the same time. The 
restoration of the Nijo Palace to some- 
thing like its former splendour dates 
from 1885-6, at which time the Imperial 
crest of the sixteen-petalled chrysan- 
themum was substituted in most places 
for that of the Tokugawa Shoguns. 

This palace, a dream of golden 
beauty within, is externally a good 
example of the Japanese fortress, 
with its turrets at the corners, its 
wall of cyclopean masonry, and its 
iron-bound gates. It is only, how- 
ever, a fraction of its former self. 
The present building is what was 
called the Ni no maru, or Second 
Keep, — the Hommaru, or Chief 
Keep, having been destroyed by 
fire over a century ago. The visitor, 
having been admitted through a 
side door, signs his name in the 
palace book, and is then conducted 
to the Kara-mon or Yotsu-ashi-mon, 
which is decorated with exquisite 
metal-work and painted carvings. 
Opposite stands a second gate, 
called Kuruma-yose, gorgeous 
with gold and colours and curious 
carvings of peonies and phoenixes. 
Turning to the r., he then enters 
the Palace proper, and is shown 
over the various suites of Apart- 
ments. The chief feature is spaci- 
ousness, while the profuse employ- 
ment of gold as the ground of the 
mural decorations, and the unusual 
size and boldness of the paintings 
on that gold ground give to the 
whole an aspect of grandeur, power, 
and richness rarely seen in a 



country whose art, generally speak- 
ing, restricts itself to the small and 
the delicate. All the wood used in 
the construction is hinoki or keyaki ; 
that of the doors is cryptomeria. 
The coffered ceilings, too, where 
not injured, are very handsome. 
Some were repainted in 1903. The 
gold-plated copper fastenings used 
to hide nails and bolts are specially 
beautiful, being elaborately chased 
and ornamented. They represent 
the folded paper called noshi, which 
is used to wrap up presents; to- 
gether with phoenixes and peonies. 
The carvings in the ramma of some 
of the rooms are exquisitely minute. 
One pair in particular, by Hidari 
Jingoro, in the suite called 0- 
biroma, which represents peacocks, 
is a triumph of art. It was brought 
from Hideyoshi's famous palace at 
Fushimi. A peculiarity of some of 
these carved ramma is that, though 
appearing to be open-work and 
therefore identical on both sides, 
the two sides are in reality quite 
different from each other. Thus, 
where the obverse has peacocks, 
the reverse will have peonies. 

The first suite of three rooms, 
adorned with bamboos and tigers, 
was intended for samurai to wait 
in. To it succeeds a far more hand- 
some suite painted with chamsecy- 
paris and maples and flowering 
trees ; Daimyos waited here. 
Thence by a door on which Kano 
Tan-yu has depicted a lion which 
stares straight at the beholder 
wherever he may stand, to a suite 
reserved for members of the Gordju, 
or Council of State. Doors having 
life-like storks and most unlife-like 
goats lead next to the 0-biroma, 
whose innermost room, the Go 
Taimenjo, or Hall of Audience, is the 
most splendid in the whole palace. 
It positively sparkles with gold ; 
and the extraordinary size and 
boldness of the pine-trees (by Kano 
Tan-yu) painted all round it produce, 
in their simplicity, an impression 
which, when the place was the 



Katsura Summer Palace. 



323 



scene of the reception by a Shogun 
of his prostrate vassals, the Dai- 
myos, must have been overwhelm- 
ing. The ram/ma here represent 
phoenixes, conventional foliage, and 
the Tokugawa crest. Notice the 
two levels in the apartment. The 
raised portion {jodan) was for the 
Shogun, the lower (gedan) for 
ordinary mortals, — an arrangement 
also met with in some of the other 
suites. Observe, too, in each suite 
the 3Ii Chodai, or Secret Closet, in 
which sat guards unseen by the 
assembly. This one has scenes of 
popular life in Tosa style. 

Leaving the O-biroma, a glance 
is taken at the Garden, which was 
designed by Kobori Enshu ; then 
through the ruined Palmetto Boom 
(see small type, p. 322), a Peony 
Room, and through a door painted 
with herons, to a suite called Kuro- 
Join, decorated by Kan5 Nao- 
nobu. The first room has pine- 
trees and small storks ; the second, 
a gorgeous reception room, is all 
gold, with double cherry-trees in 
full blossom. Observe the two 
beautiful shelves (cMgai-dana), one 
of which shows some rude early 
examples of cloisonne work, — small 
medallions with the Shogun's crest. 
The style of decoration of the 
Shiro Join, the innermost suite of 
all, differs from the rest, the fusuma 
being of dull gold painted in sepia 
and pale colours, with Chinese 
scenes by Kano Koi. This suite 
was for the Sh5gun's private use, 
when he came to Kyoto to visit the 
Mikado. From this extreme point 
the visitor is led in inverse order 
along the back rooms of the various 
Apartments. The most notable 
items are a painting of two sleep- 
ing sparrows (in the Shiro Join), 
a room with fans and chrysanthe- 
mums in slight relief, a room with 
pine-trees and eagles (back of the 
O-biroma), containing also Hidari 
Jingoro's rarama already described, 
and a room with wild-geese and 
herons by Kano Naonobu. 



Katsura no Rikyu* (Katsura 
Summer Palace). 

This retreat, which dates from early in 
the 17th century, formerly belonged to 
the Katsura family, a branch of the 
Imperial House. It has been taken over 
as a summer palace. 

The building is a ramshackle 
place not differing in style from 
any ordinary Japanese house. On 
the other hand, the lover of the 
Kano school of art, especially of 
Kan5 Tan-yu, will here find wel- 
come material for study. The fres- 
coes in the alcoves are, it is true, 
sadly decayed. But the sliding 
screens remain in fair preservation, 
while Tan-yu's various small draw- 
ings of birds and figures on cabinets 
in the inner rooms are perfect 
gems. Almost all are in sepia. 
Notice, furthermore, some wooden 
doors also painted by Kano artists, 
and some tiny specimens of very 
early cloisonne in the cabinets. 
The square bamboo frame outside 
the verandah is called Tsuki-mi-dai, 
or " moon-gazing platform," because 
it was used by the inmates to sit 
out on and watch the moon rising 
over the pine-trees. 

One next goes round the Garden, 
a representative example of the 
best style of Japanese landscape 
gardening, as practised by Kobori 
Enshu and the other aristocratic 
enthusiasts, who, under the general 
name of cha-no-yu, or "tea cere- 
monies," cultivated all the arts 
from which aesthetic enjoyment can 
be derived. The summer-houses 
in this garden are in the rigidly 
plain and primitive style which 
these aesthetes favoured. Then too 
there are pools, artificial streams, 
rustic bridges, large stepping-stones 
brought from the two extremities 
of the empire or presented by 
historical personages, trees trained 
in artificial shapes, islets, moss-clad 
hillocks, stone lanterns, and carpets 
of moss. The lake is full of a 

* Not accessible to the general public, 



324 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



water-plant called kohone (marsh 
marigold), which generally bears 
only yellow flowers, but here has 
red ones as well. 

The temple of Tenjin at Nagaoka, 
in this same direction (near Mukd- 
machi station), is often visited 
for the sake of its azaleas and 
pretty lake. 

Toji. 

This temple, founded in the middle of 
the 8th century, is now the headquarters 
of the Shingon sect, whose seminary is 
passed r. on the drive up. The existing 
structures date from about 1640. 

Close by, in ancient times stood the 
city gate called Rasho-mon, the scene of 
a portion of the legend of the Ogre of 
Oeyama (see Japanese Fairy Tale Series). 
Another legend attaches to the pagoda 
itself. This edifice, it is averred, after 
completion, began to lean to one side. 
Kobo Daishi, nothing daunted, prayed 
that it might be restored to the vertical 
position, and forthwith the pagoda stood 
straight. A rationalistic version of the 
story is that Kobo Daishi corrected 
the tendency of the tower to lean to one 
side by digging a pond on the other ; and 
a pond full of lotus is shown to this day 
as a mute witness to the truth of the 
legend. 

This temple should be visited 
only on the 21st day of the month, 
when the festival of Kobo Daishi 
is held. There is also a pretty 
procession of girls (tayih no dochu) 
on the 21st April. At other times 
the place looks dreary. Most of 
the buildings are in a rude style, 
with mud floors, pillars and beams 
coloured red with oxide of iron, and 
white-plastered walls. Several of 
the images are attributed to the 
chisel of Kobo Daishi. 

The Shinto Temple of Inari 
(Inari no Yashiro) stands on the 
road to Fushimi, close to the rail- 
way station. The streets in the 
neighbourhood are crammed with 
little earthenware dolls and effigies 
called Fushimi ningyd. 

This very popular Shinto temple, the 
prototype of the thousands of Inari tem- 
ples scattered all over the country, was 
founded in A.D. 711, when the Groddess of 
Rice is fabled to have first manifested 
herself on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi 



is said to have met an old man in the vici- 
nity of Toji carrying a sheaf of rice on 
his back, whom he recognised as the deity 
of this temple, and adopted as the " Pro- 
tector" of that monastery. Hence the 
name Inari, which signifies " rice-man," 
and is written with two Chinese characters 
meaning " rice-bearing.** Inari is said to 
have-assisted the famous smith Kokaji to 
forge one of his mighty swords, and to 
have here cut the rock with it in order to 
try its blade,— a legend which forms the 
subject-matter of one of the No, or Lyric 
Dramas. Hence this temple is regarded 
with special reverence by swordsmiths 
and cutlers. The best time to visit Inari 
is on the occasion of the double annual 
festival held on two days in early May, 
which fall differently each year. On the 
first of these, the procession of sacred 
cars goes to what is called the O Tabisho, 
or "travelling station," near the temple 
of Toji, and on the second it comes back 
again. Throughout the year, on the days 
of the Horse and the Serpent, devotees 
make the circuit of the mountain (O 
yama sum), and crowds of them may be 
often found marching up and down all 
night long. 

The chief entrance is by the 
great red iorii just off the main 
road, then up a flight of steps, and 
through a large gate flanked by 
huge stone foxes to the empty 
Haiden, or Oratory. Passing 1. the 
ex-voto shed (some curious pictures), 
ascending some steps flanked by 
two stone foxes on pedestals, with 
wire cages to prevent them from 
being defiled by birds, and passing 
r. the Kagura stage, one reaches the 
chief shrine. The pillars of its portal 
are plain ; but the rest of the walls 
and pillars are painted red or white. 
Two gilt and gaudily coloured 
koma-inu and ama-inu guard the 
extremities of the verandah. Be- 
hind, to the r., is a white godown in 
which the sacred cars are usually 
kept. Their decorations in gold, 
silver, copper, and iron, possess 
great value. The plain building to 
the extreme 1. is the temple office 
(shamusho). 

A path to the 1. leads up to a 
second level space, where stand 
various insignificant shrines; then 
up another flight of steps to a 
shrine called Kami no Yashiro, and 
thence up through more than 400 



Temples of Inari and Daigoji. 



325 



fed wooden toril, great and small, 
placed so close together as to form 
two nearly parallel colonnades, one 
ascending, the other descending. 
This leads to the Oku-no-in, a tiny 
shrine packed with toy torii, and 
haying square spaces in front to 
receive the visiting cards of the 
faithful. Behind it is a rubbish 
heap of old toy toril and fox images 
such as are kept in all households 
and replaced yearly. Beyond the 
Oku-no-in, begins 1. what is termed 
the Hora-meguri, or " Circuit of the 
Mountain Hollows,'' on account of 
various fox-holes by the way. 

[Bather than make the entire 
circuit, which is fully a ri in 
length and will take at least 
1 hr., visitors pressed for time 
will do well to strike oft r. to a 
place where there is a little 
tea-house (Sasayama-tei), on the 
top of a minor hill command- 
ing a view of Fushimi and the 
Yodogawa. This point can be 
reached in J hr. from the 
entrance to the temple 
grounds.] 

On the way are passed large 
stone boulders with inscriptions, 
and walls round them, and numer- 
ous torii in front of each. At each 
of these " boulder shrines "is a 
large tea-shed. The top is called 
Ichl-no-mlne, or more popularly 
Suehiro-san. One descends another 
way, the view just below the sum- 
mit being particularly fine towards 
the S., including Uji with its river, 
the Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi, 
Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the 
other side the swamp of Ogura, the 
Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and 
the Y^odogawa. On the way down 
are a shrine called Choja no Jivja, a 
number of sacred boulders as 
before, and some fox-holes called 
Samba, supposed to be the places 
in which the vixen give birth to 
their young. Just above the latter, 
2 cho off the road, a fine view of 
the city is obtained. The path is 



good the whole way. This moun- 
tain is celebrated for producing the 
best mushrooms (matsu-take) in 
Japan. 

On the 5th June, horse-races and 
equestrian feats by men in armour 
may be witnessed at Inari, the 
riders coming up thus far north 
from another ancient temple, slight- 
ly off the Nara road, called Fuji-no- 
morl, where a festival is held on 
that day. 

A long way S.E. of Inari (1\ hr. 
by two-men jinrikisha from the 
hotels), stands a temple of the 
Shingon sect of Buddhists, dedicated 
to the worship of Miroku and 
properly called Sambo-ln, but 
generally known as Daigoji, from 
the name of the adjacent village. 
The main edifice has apartments 
handsomely painted by Kano San- 
raku and other artists, and con- 
taining some splendid screens from 
Hideyoshi's palace at Momoyama. 
There is also a large pagoda, be- 
sides other edifices, interesting as 
exemplifying different architectural 
epochs. The garden, too, is very 
fine. On the top of the hill, at 
what is called Kami Daigo, 2J m. 
further, are several more buildings. 
The whole neighbourhood is finely 
wooded, the maples in autumn be- 
ing exceptionally beautiful. 

This spacious foundation dates back to 
the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A. D. 
S04), and was restored under Hideyoshi 
in the 16th century, from which period 
also dates the garden. 

T6fuku-ji, one of the chief 
temples of the Zen sect, was 
founded by Shdichi Kokushi in the 
13th century. It is noted for the 
maple-trees lining both sides of a 
gully, which is spanned by a bridge 
or gallery called Tsu-ten-kyo, that is, 
" the Bridge to Heaven." This gal- 
lery and a tower in the roof give to 
Tofuku-ji an original and striking 
appearance. Of the formerly very 
extensive buildings, only a few 
now remain^ The temple contains 
some good wooden images, and a 



326 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



number of wonderful kakemonos of 
the Five Hundred Eakan by the 
famous artist Cho Densu, who 
spent his long life here as a monk. 
But its greatest treasure is a huge 
kakemono by the same artist of Sha- 
ka's Entry into Nirvana (Nehan-zb), 
24 ft. by 48 ft. It is dated 1408, and 
exposed to veneration on the 15th 
March. Occasionally a few of the 
other works of art above-mentioned 
may be seen at the time of the 
yearly airing in summer or autumn 
(date not fixed). At other times, all 
are shut up. 

The temple of Sen-yuji was the 
burial-place of ihe Mikados from 
the 13th to the 19th century. But 
their tombs are never shown, nei- 
ther are the temple treasures, ex- 
cept that annually on the 8th 
October one of Buddha's teeth is 
exposed to public worship. It is 
enormous, and evidently belonged 
to some large quadruped, probably 
a horse. 

The insignificant little wooden bridge 
passed between Tofuku-ji and Sen-yuji, 
deserves a word of mention. It is called 
Yume no Uki-hashi, or the Floating Bridge 
of Dreams, and is the place where, on the 
occasion of an Imperial interment, the 
fruit, cakes, and other perishable offer- 
ings to a dead Mikado were thrown away 
into the rivulet below, as the procession 
wound slowly at midnight towards the 
place of sepulture. 

San-ju-san-gen-do, the Tem- 
ple of the 33,333 images of Kwan- 
non, the Deity of Mercy (see p. 50). 

Founded in 1132 by the ex-Emperor 
Toba, who placed in it 1,001 images of 
Kwannon, to which the Emperor Go- 
Shirakawa afterwards added as many 
more in 1165, it was completely destroyed 
with all its contents in 1249. In 1266 the 
Emperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled 
it with images of the Thousand-handed 
Kwannon to the number of 1,000. Its 
dimensions are 389 ft. by 57 ft. In 1662 
the Shogun Ietsuna restored the building, 
which takes its name, not from its length, 
but from the thirty- three spaces between 
the pillars, which form a single row from 
end to end. 

Quite unique is the impression 
produced by this immensely elon- 
gated edifice, with its vast com- 



pany of gilded images rising tier 
above tier. Each image is 5 ft. 
high, and all represent the Eleven- 
faced Thousand-handed Kwannon. 
There are 1,000 of these, the total 
number of 33,333 being obtained by 
including in the computation the 
smaller effigies on the foreheads, 
on the halos, and in the hands of 
the larger ones. Three hundred of 
the large images were executed by 
Kokei and Kdei, two hundred by 
Unkei, and the remainder by 
Shichijo Dai-busshi. Though all 
represent the same divine person- 
age, and though there is of course 
a general resemblance between the 
figures, it will be found that no two 
have quite the same arrangement of 
hands and articles held in them. 
The large seated figure in the centre 
is also a Kwannon, while standing 
round it are Kwannon' s Eight-and- 
twenty Followers (Bushu). 

A gallery at the back contains 
some exceptionally fine specimens 
of Unkei's art, — life-sized wooden 
statues of the Thunder and Wind 
Gods and other supernatural beings, 
wonderfully life-like (though not 
like Japanese) in the vivacity of 
their gestures and their excited, 
passionate countenances. They 
show traces of gold and colour. 

Tradition says that the ex-Mikado Go 
Shirakawa, being troubled with severe 
headaches which resisted all the usual 
remedies, made a pilgrimage to the 
shrines of Kumano to pray for relief. 
He was directed by the gods to apply to a 
celebrated Indian physician then residing 
at a temple in the capital. On returning, 
he at once proceeded thither, and became 
absorbed in prayer until midnight, when 
a monk of noble mien appeared, and 
informed him that in a previous state of 
existence His Majesty had been a pious 
monk of Kumano named Renge-bo, who, 
for his merits, had been promoted to the 
rank of Mikado in this present life ; but 
that his former skull was lying at the 
bottom of a river still undissolved, and 
that out of it grew a willow-tree which 
shook whenever the wind blew, thereby 
causing His Majesty's head to ache. On 
awaking from this vision, the ex-Mikado 
sent to search for the skull, and having 
found it, caused it to be enclosed in the 
head of the principal Kwannon of this 
temple.—It used formerly to be the cus- 



Art Museum. Daibutsu. 



32? 



torn for skilful archers to try how many 
arrows they could shoot from one end 
to the other of the verandah on the W. 
front of the building. This was called 
b-ya-fcazu, or the "greatest number of 
arrows." Broken fragments of them still 
remain sticking in the beams. 

Opposite the large temple of the 
33,333 Buddhas, stands a small one 
whose proper name is Y6gei-in, but 
which is always spoken of as Chi- 
tenjo, or the Bloody Ceiling, on 
account of the following story : — 

In 1615, during the war between Ieyasu 
and Hideyori, 381 warriors of the latter 
prince were defending this place. When 
the_news of Hideyori's defeat and death 
at Osaka reached them, they with one 
accord resolved on committing haraJciri; 
but averse to polluting his actual apart- 
ments with their blood, they ranged 
themselves in rows on the verandah and 
there ripped themselves open. There 
being no one to bury the corpses, these 
are said to have remained two and a half 
years untouched. At length, the Shogun 
Iemitsu, successor to Ieyasu, admiring 
loyalty, even in his foes, caused them to 
be interred and, in order that the scene 
of so heroic a deed should not be tram- 
pled under foot, the verandah was taken 
up and made into a ceiling. 

The verandah ceiling runs round 
three sides of the building. The 
priest who acts as guide points out 
what are supposed to be the marks 
of blood and decaying corpses, even 
to the shape of heads, legs, etc., and 
also shows a number of miscellane- 
ous relics and art objects. — Next 
door stands 

Chish.aku-in. 

This temple was brought here at the 
end of the 16th century from Xegoro-ji 
in Kishu, after the persecution which 
that splendid ecclesiastical establishment 
suffered at the hands of Oda Nobunaga. 
In 1905-6, one pretty little suite was 
allotted to Admiral Rojdestvensky during 
his captivity after the battle of Tsushima. 

The spacious Apartments contain 
miscellaneous antiquities and ex- 
cellent kakemonos, screens, etc. by 
classic artists. Kano Nobuharu 
painted the large flow T ers on a gold 
ground in the back suite. The 
last room— a new one dating from 



1895 — serves for the reception of 
guests on funeral and other cere- 
monial occasions. The Garden, 
by Sen-no-Rikyu, show r s to best 
advantage in the azalea season. 

The Art Museum (Teishitsu 
Hakubutsu-kican). 

Open daily in summer from 8 a.m. to 
5 or 6 p.m.; in winter from 9 to 4, except 
on the 10th, 20th, and last of every 
month, and from 20th December to 1st 
January inclusive. Most of the exhibits, 
even some of the larger and more preci- 
ous articles, are changed from time to 
time. 

This and the Museum at Nara 
contain the two best collections of 
early Japanese statuary. Splendid 
specimens, both large and small, 
are borrowed from time to time 
from various Buddhist temples 
in Kyoto and the surrounding 
provinces, while others have been 
permanently taken over by the 
government as " national treasures." 
Some date from the 7th and 8th 
centuries when Buddhist carving, 
under the influence of Korean 
instructors, was at the height of 
its peculiar excellence. The other 
chief contents are beautiful old 
kakemonos and screens, ancient 
manuscripts, swords, armour, 
masks, musical instruments, coins, 
Imperial robes and miscellaneous 
utensils, embroidery, etc., arranged 
as far as possible in chronological 
sequence. 

Immediately behind the Art Mu- 
seum, are the Shinto temple of 

Hiyoshi Jinja and the Buddhist 
temple of Miy6ho-in. The latter 
contains numerous art objects, in- 
cluding the palanquin of the 
Emperor Kokaku (d. 1817), twelve 
kakemonos, one of each of the 
JiL-ni-Ten, attributed to Kose-no- 
Kanaoka, the robes and hat of a 
Korean king of the end of the 16th 
century, some curious embroidered 
kakemonos of the Sixteen Rakan, 
sliding-screens by Kano Eitoku, 
etc. 

Daibutsu, or the Great Buddha. 



328 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood, 



Ever since 1588, some colossal image of 
Buddha has stood on this spot ; but one 
after another was destroyed by fire, 
earthquake, or lightning. The present 
wooden figure, which lacks all artistic 
merit, dates from 1801. 

This Daibutsu consists only of a 
head and shoulders without a body ; 
but even so, it reaches to the ceil- 
ing of the lofty hall in which it is 
enshrined. The head is gilt, but 
not the shoulders. The dimensions 
are stated to be as follows : — 

Height 58 ft. 

Length of face 30 „ 

Breadth of face .....21 „ 

Length of eyebrow 8 „ 

Length of eye 5 „ 

Length of nose 9 „ 

Breadth of nostril 2 „ 3 in. 

Length of mouth 8 „ 7 „ 

Length of ear 12 „ 

Breadth of shoulders 43 „ 

Bound the walls hang 188 cheap 
modern pictures of Kwannon 
painted on paper, each inscribed 
with a stanza of poetry. There are 
also some large pieces of iron, relics 
of the pillars of a former building. 
At the top of a gallery behind the 
image is a rude altar containing a 
black image of Fudd, which Hide- 
yoshi used to carry about as a 
talisman. By going round this 
gallery, one sees into the inside of 
the image, which contains a quanti- 
ty of timber framing. 

The huge Bell, seen on quitting 
the Daibutsu, is nearly 14 ft. high, 
9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and 
weighs oyer 63 tons, being thus one 
of the four biggest in Japan. The 
other three are at Ohion-in in Kyoto, 
at Tennoji in Osaka, and at Nara. 

The temple called Toyokuni no 
Yashiro, or Hokoku Jinja, near to 
the belfry on the 1. as one departs, 
is dedicated to Hideyoshi who is 
worshipped as a Shinto god. The 
handsome old gate was brought 
from his palace of Momoyama at 
Fushimi. The Armstrong gun 
close to it was captured from the 
Chinese in 1895. Hideyoshi lies 



buried on the hill behind, called 
Amida-mine, where a granite monu- 
ment 27 ft. high was set up in 
1898 to commemorate the tercenten- 
ary of his death. The fatiguing 
climb up is rewarded by a fine 
view of the city and neighour- 
hood. 

Opposite Hideyoshi's temple is 
the Mimi-zuka, or "Ear Mound," 
beneath which were interred the 
ears and noses of Koreans slain in 
the wars which he waged against 
their country in the years 1592 and 
1597. They were brought home 
by his soldiers instead of the more 
usual trophies of heads. The stone 
monument on it is of the sotoba 
shape (see p. 42). 

Nishi Hongwartji. 

By command of Hideyoshi, the Western 
branch of the Hongwanji sect of Bud- 
dhists transferred their head-quarters to 
Kyoto in 1591, and this great temple was 
then erected. It has since been repaired 
every fifty years. 

The principal Gate, by which the 
visitor leaves, is decorated with 
beautifully carved designs of the 
chrysanthemum flower and leaf. 
The wire netting which covers its 
interior part is placed there, as 
in many other edifices, in order 
to prevent birds from building their 
nests among the rafters. The ap- 
parently useless wall just inside 
the gate serves the purpose of 
securing privacy for the temple, by 
shutting out the view from the 
street. The large icho tree in the 
courtyard is supposed to protect the 
temple against fire, by discharging 
showers of water whenever a con- 
flagration in the vicinity threatens 
danger. 

The Main Temple, or Hondo, is 
a grand massive structure, as cus- 
tomary with the buildings of this 
sect. The interior is 138 ft. in 
length by 93 ft. in depth, and the 
floor covers an area of 477 mats. 
In accordance with ancient custom, 
the nave (gejin) is of plain keya- 
ki wood. There are great wooden 



Hongwanji Temples. 



329 



doors with metal fastenings, and 
at the sides large paper slides quite 
unworthy of their surroundings. 
The bracketings above the massive 
columns are tipped with white. R. 
and 1. of the chancel are two spaci- 
ous chambers 24 ft. by 36 ft., with 
gilt pillars and walls, decorated 
with the lotus-flower and leaf. In 
them hang large kakemonos two 
centuries old, inscribed with invo- 
cations to Amicla in large gold 
characters on a dark bine ground 
surrounded by a glory, and portraits 
of the successive heads of the sect. 
The front of the nave is completely 
gilt, and has gilt trellised folding- 
doors and sliding-screens decorated 
with snow scenes, representing the 
plum-tree, pine, and bamboo in 
their winter covering, the ramma 
being filled with gilt open-work 
carvings of the peony. The cornice 
is decorated with coloured ara- 
besques. In the centre of the 
chancel (naijin) is the shrine, cover- 
ed with carved floral designs gilt 
and painted. It contains a seated 
effigy in black wood of the Founder, 
about 2 ft. high, said to be from his 
own hand. Before it stands a 
wooden altar, the front of which is 
divided into small panels of open- 
work flowers and birds against a 
gilt background. The central apart- 
ment has a fine cornice of gilt and 
painted wood- work, and a coffered 
ceiling with the shippo and hana 
crest on a gold ground. The dim 
light renders much of the detail 
obscure. The two Chinese charac- 
ters on the tablet over the high altar 
represent the name Kenshin, that 
of the founder of the sect (see p. 83 
under Shinran Shonin). 

Next to the main temple, but of 
smaller dimensions, is the Kbdb 
or Amida-do, 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in 
depth, divided in the same way, 
but having only one apartment, 
30 ft. by 36 ft., on each side of the 
central chapel, with a dead-gold 
wall at the back, and a coffered 
ceiling with coloured decorations 
on paper. Fancy portraits of Sho- 



toku Taishi and the u Seven Great 
Priests of India, China, and Japan," 
including Honen Shonin, founder 
of the Jodo sect, from which the 
Shin or Hongwanji sect is an off- 
shoot, hang in these two apart- 
ments. A handsome shrine, with 
slender gilt pillars and a- design 
composed of the chrysanthemum 
flower and leaf, contains a gilt 
wooden statuette of Amida, about 
3 ft. high, black with age. It is 
attributed to the famous sculptor 
Kasuga Busshi. Over the gilt 
carvings of tree-peonies in the 
ramma are others of angels in high 
relief. Specially worthy of notice 
is a sliding-screen close to the 
entrance on the r. of the altar, de- 
corated with a peacock and pea-hen 
on a gold ground, perched on a 
peach-tree with white blossoms. It 
is by an artist of the Kano school. 

The Apartments (not generally 
accessible) are decorated on a scale 
of palatial splendour by artists of 
the Kano school. The temple 
grounds are quitted by a splendidly 
carved gate brought from Momo- 
yama and called Chokushi Mon, or 
Gate of the Imperial Messenger, — 
also Hi-gurashi no Mon, because a 
whole day might be spent in 
examining it. The carvings are 
commonly, but erroneously, attri- 
buted to Hidari Jingoro. The 
subject on the transverse panels is 
Kyo-yo (Hsii-yu), a hero of early 
Chinese legend, who, having reject- 
ed the Emperor Yao's proposal 
to resign the throne to him, is 
represented washing his ear at a 
waterfall to get rid of the pollution 
caused by the ventilation of so 
preposterous an idea ; the owner of 
the cow opposite is supposed to 
have quarrelled with him for thus 
defiling the stream, at which he 
was watering his beast. 

Higashi Hongwanji. 

This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hon- 
gwanji, was founded in 1692, but 
the present edifice dates only from 1895. 
Notwithstanding what has often been 



330 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



alleged with regard to the recent decay 
of Japanese Buddhism, the rebuilding of 
this grand temple was a strictly popular 
enterprise. All the surrounding prov- 
inces contributed their quota,— over a 
million yen in all, — while many peasants, 
considering gifts in kind to be more 
honourable and, as it were, more personal 
than gifts in money, presented timber 
or other materials. The timbers were all 
lifted into place by twenty-nine gigantic 
hawsers made of human hair (ke-zuna), 
which are still preserved in a godown. 

This magnificent temple shows 
what such an edifice looks like 
when new. So far as plan and style 
are concerned, the orthodox model of 
the temples of the Hongwanji sect 
has been faithfully adhered to, both 
in the Daishi-do, or Founder's 
Hall (the main building), and in 
the subsidiary Amida-do to the 1. 
The former, however, is peculiar in 
possessing two roofs. Note the 
splendid bronze lanterns, four in 
number, namely, one pair at each 
entrance. The wood of all such 
portions of the temple as are meant 
to meet the eye is keyaki, excepting 
the beams in the ceiling which are 
of pine. There are some good 
carvings of the signs of the zodiac, 
of waves, of bamboos, dragons, and 
angels; and paintings of lotus- 
flowers of gigantic size on a gold 
ground. The chief dimensions of 
the main building, probably the 
largest in Japan, are approximately 
as follows : — 

Length 230 ft. 

Depth 195 „ 

Height 126 „ 

Number of large pillars 96 
Number of tiles on roof 175,967 

On leaving the Higashi Hongwan- 
ji, observe the gigantic bronze 
water-vase and the simple but ele- 
gant belfry. The great Gate 
dates from 1911. Observe Takeno- 
uchi Seiho's angels on the ceiling 
playing musical instruments. 

Nishi Otani is the burial-place 
of the larger portion of the body of 
Shinran Shonin. The stone bridge 
spanning the lotus-pond is called 



Megane-bashi, from its resemblance 
to a pair of spectacles. Several of 
the ornamental knobs on the balus- 
trade can be turned round. An 
inclined way paved with granite 
and a flight of steps lead up to the 
handsome Main Gate, inside which 
1. stands, as usual in the temples of 
this sect, the Taiko-db, a handsomely 
carved two-storied structure, which 
is used as a place of confinement 
for refractory priests, and receives 
its name from the drum (taiko) 
which they are set to beat as a 
penance. There is a fine lotus and 
dragon fountain in front of the main 
temple, which is a new building, 
plain outside, but with a rather 
handsome interior, a striking effect 
being produced by the restriction 
of gold ornamentation to the vicini- 
ty of the altar. A gilt figure of 
Amida stands in a gold lacquer 
shrine. 

Behind, up an alley to the r., is an 
apartment for the reception of the 
remains of members of the sect from 
all parts of the country, whose kins- 
folk pay to have one or two of their 
bones deposited in a general grave 
near that of Shinran Shonin. The 
Kyoto members, on the contrary, 
are interred in the cemetery, and 
their graves are visited on the 15- 
16th October, when the abbot of 
Hongwanji comes here in state to 
officiate. The Saint's grave is con- 
cealed by a triple fence, and is not 
shown. — The path up the hill leads 
through the cemetery to the W. gate 
of the temple of 

Ki y om izu-dera. 

The origin of this temple sacred to 
Kwannon is lost in the mists of an- 
tiquity. According to tradition, the great 
general Tamura Maro (see p. 85), gave 
his own house to be pulled down and 
re-erected in the goddess's honour, for 
which reason his memory is here special- 
ly revered, as is that of the greatest 
soldier of later times, Hideyoshi. 

A steep street of shops, where 
brightly coloured earthenware dolls 
(Kiyomizu-yaki), amusingly varied 
and up-to-date, are to be had, leads 



Kiyomizu-dera. 



331 



tip to this very popular temple, 
which is situated in a striking posi- 
tion on the hillside, and commands 
a justly celebrated view of the city. 
The two-storied gateway at the top 
of the steps dates from the Ashikaga 
period, and was restored a bright 
brick red in 1897. Besides this 
gate, there are two pagodas each 
three-storied, and a large green bell 
dating from the Ewan-ei period 
(1624-44). To this succeed numer- 
ous minor temple buildings, in one 
of which a fortune-teller plies a 
brisk trade. The visitor then pas- 
ses up through a colonnade to the 
Hon-do or Main Temple, whose 
rough-hewn columns and bare floor 
produce an unusual impression. 
Indeed, the whole aspect of Kiyo- 
mizu is original and unique. 

This arises partly from the fact that 
the usual style of Japanese Buddhist 
architecture is here departed from. Ki- 
yomizu is not a temple in form, but a 
reproduction of one wing of the Emperor 
Kwammu's palace at Nagaoka. 

The sacred image of the Eleven- 
faced Thousand-handed Kwannon, 
a little over 5 ft. high, is contained 
in a shrine opened only once in 
thirty-three years. E. and 1. are 
images of the Eight-and-twenty 
Followers of Kwannon, and at each 
end of the platform stand two of 
the Shi-Tenn5. The shrine at the 
E. end contains an image of Bisha- 
mon, who, as tradition tells us, 
appeared to Tamura Maro in com- 
pany with Jizo (whose image, attrib- 
uted to the sculptor Enchin, is 
enclosed in the W. shrine), and 
promised him aid in his expedition 
against the Ainos of N.E. Japan. 
Pictures of the three hang at one 
end of the inner shrine. The 
building is 190J ft. long by 88J 
ft. in depth, and 53 ft. in height 
from the platform. It has a wooden 
platform in front, called butai 
(dancing-stage), supported on a 
lofty scaffolding of solid beams, 
and two small projecting wings 
which serve as the orchestra 
(gakuya). 



The 17th August is the great gala day 
here, when a classical concert is perform- 
ed by musicians habited in various an- 
tique costumes, seated opposite each 
other in each wing, like the two sides of 
a choir. This, the chief festival of the 
whole year, is called Rohusai nembutsu. 

On the dancing-stage, extending 
the whole length of its front, abuts 
an open hall full of ex-voto pic- 
tures, some of which possess artistic 
merit and historic interest. The 
immense one on a gold ground 
fronting the main altar is by 
Kaihoku Yusetsu, and pourtrays 
Tamura Maro's victory over the 
Ainos. The three next it to the r. 
represent meetings of Japanese and 
Dutch merchants in the years 
1624-6, on board Japanese junks of 
a vanished type. The portion of 
the temple screened off consists of 
a corridor called Naijin, to which 
admittance is sometimes granted, 
and an enclosure or Holy of Holies 
containing the altar proper, which 
is called Nai-7iaijin, and never 
allowed to be entered save by the 
priests, who perform a highly 
ornate ritual. 

Leaving the main temple, we see 
1.. immediately behind it on a slight 
eminence, the Jishu Jivja, or 
" Temple of the Original Owners of 
the Soil," namely, the Shinto dei- 
ties Onamuji, Susa-no-o, and Inada- 
Hime. It has been stripped of its 
ornaments, and is not worth going 
up to inspect. Passing on, we see 
1. a small eleven-storied pagoda, 
and then reach the Oku-no-in build- 
ings, the first of which to arrest 
attention is that dedicated to 
Honen Shonin, which is one of the 
gems of Kyoto. It counts among 
the Twenty-five Places sacred to 
that saint, and dates from 1858. 
It is separated from the actual Oku- 
no-in by a shed containing a hun- 
dred stone images of Jizo, — quaint 
little things with coloured bibs, for 
which childless people or people 
whose children are dead have a 
special devotion. The style of the 
Oku-no-in repeats that of the Hon- 



332 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



do on a smaller and less complete 
scale. Some recluses of both sexes 
inhabit the rooms beyond it to- 
wards the precipice. The small 
cascade below is called Otowa-no- 
takl. On returning outwards, the 
visitor will perhaps be shown some 
gigantic footprints attributed to 
Kagekiyo (see p. 76). 

The Yasaka, Pagoda, five sto- 
reys high, which dates from 1618 
and was repaired in 1906, is worth 
ascending for the sake of the 
near and complete view which 
it affords of the city; but the 
ladder is unpleasantly steep for 
ladies. This pagoda, like many 
others in Japan, is dedicated to 
four Nyorai, namely, Hojo on the 
S., Amida on the W., Ashuku on 
the E., and Shaka on the N. On 
the eight panels of the doors are 
paintings on a thin coating of 
plaster. Of the four images, that 
of Shaka alone is old. The interior 
walls and pillars of the basement 
are painted with highly coloured 
Buddhist deities. 

Kodaiji, noted for its relics of 
Hideyoshi, belongs to the Einzai 
branch of the Zen sect. 

Founded in A.D. 838, it underwent 
many vicissitudes, and was rebuilt in 
1605 by Hideyoshi's widow, in order that 
services might be performed there for 
the benefit of the souls of Hideyoshi and 
his mother. Most of the buildings were 
burnt down in 1863. 

The visitor is first ushered into 
the Apartments, which, though of 
modest proportions, contain some 
good works of art. There are gold 
screens by Kano Motonobu, Kano 
Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku. One 
by Matahei is curious, as represent- 
ing the arrival of Korean envoys at 
Sakai, while a brilliant but anony- 
mous kakemono depicts the Chinese 
Emperor Shin-no-Shiko. There are 
also various relics of Hideyoshi and 
his wife (Kita-no-Mandokoro), — his 
writing-box in mother-of-pearl, the 
black lacquered ' horse ' on which 
she hung her clothes, etc. 

From the Apartments the acolyte 



who acts as cicerone will show the 
way to the Garden, which was de- 
signed by the celebrated aesthete, 
Kobori Enshu. Its picturesque ef- 
fect is assisted by the two lofty 
pine-clad hills that rise behind the 
trees at the back. We are next 
made to pass up a gallery, or rather 
bridge, which was brought from 
Momoyama. Hideyoshi used to sit 
on the little square in the middle 
of this gallery, to gaze at the moon 
(tsuki-mi no dai). Then we come to 
the Kaisan-do, or Founder's Hall, 
the painted ornamentation of which 
is highly original in style. The 
ceiling is made of the top of Hide- 
yoshi's wife's carriage, and of a 
portion of the roof of the war-junk 
prepared for Hideyoshi's use in his 
expedition against Korea. The four 
panels of the shrine were painted 
by Kand Motonobu. An incense- 
burner shaped like an octopus, in 
front of the little altar, was brought 
from Korea by Kat5 Kiyomasa. 
The dragon on the ceiling is by 
Kano Eitoku. From the Founder's 
Hall we pass up another covered 
gallery, named the Gvsaryb no Rbka, 
that is, the Corridor of the Eecum- 
bent Dragon, to the Tamaya, or 
Mortuary Chapel, which contains 
a seated effigy of Hideyoshi in a 
shrine having panels of black 
lacquer with designs in thin gold 
taken from his wife's carriage. 
The hat was given to him by 
the emperor of China. On the 
opposite side is the effigy of his 
wife in the garb of a Buddhist nun. 
The Thirty-six Poets, by Tosa 
Mitsunobu, hang round the walls. 
Four sliding-screens by Kano 
Motonobu, much injured by time, 
are also shown. Note the gold 
pattern on the black lacquer steps 
inside the altar. It represents rafts 
and fallen cherry-blossoms floating 
down the current of a river, and is 
said to be the earliest example of 
gold lacquer. The way leads down 
the gallery again, and so out. 

The temple of Reizan, next door 
to Kodaiji, is dedicated to the 



Higashi Otani. Gion. 



333 



memory of fallen warriors of the 
late reign, in whose honour a 
festival (shokonsai), with wrestling 
and other amusements, is held 
yearly on the 14th October. 

Shogun-zuka, which rises some 
570 ft. above the river, commands 
a wide prospect over the city and 
surrounding country, up to the 
mountains bounding the province 
of Yamashiro on the W. and N. 

It take3 its name, which means the 
" generalissimo's mound," from a tradi- 
tion that when the Emperor Kwammu re- 
moved his capital to its present situation, 
he buried here the effigy of a warrior 
in full armour, provided with a bow and 
arrows, to act as the protecting deity 
of the new city. According to popular 
belief, this guardian warrior was none 
other than the famous Tamura Maro. — 
Admiral Togo and General Kuroki planted 
pine-trees on this spot in 1906 as an offer- 
ing to him after their victory in the 
Russian war. 

Nearer than Shogun-zuka to the 
city proper is Maruyarna, a 
suburb almost exclusively occupied 
by tea-houses, — the resort of holi- 
day-makers bent on dancing or 
drinking. Some may find it more 
convenient to visit the Higashi 
Otani, Gion and Chion-in temples 
first, and to take Maruyarna and 
Shogun-zuka afterwards. 

Higashi Otani, is the burial- 
place of a portion of the remains 
of Shinran Shdnin, founder of the 
Monto or Hongwanji sect, of Ken- 
nyo the founder of this its Eastern 
branch, and of Kennyo's successors 
the later abbots. The grounds are 
extensive, and finely situated. An 
avenue of pine-trees leads up to the 
gateway, which is decorated with 
good carvings of chrysanthemums 
and conventional vegetation. To 
the 1. is a small drum-tower similar 
to that at Nishi Otani (p. 330). The 
temple (Hondo), though small, looks 
rich in its golden simplicity. On 
the altar stands a wooden statuette 
of Amida by the sculptor Kwaikei. 
In a shrine at the r. side hangs 
a portrait of Shinran Sh5nin ; at 
its r. one of Shotoku Taishi, while 



on the 1. are various abbots. Ob- 
serve the "wheel of the law," 
repeated nine times on the frieze 
above the main altar. In the 
grounds near the temple is a 
splendid bronze fountain, lotus- 
shaped with a dragon rampant atop. 
A short flight of steps behind leads 
up to the tomb, — a plain but solid 
square structure in granite, in front 
of which stands a beautiful gate 
carved by Hidari Jingoro. The fine 
panels at the sides of this gate, 
originally gilt, represent 1. the carp 
ascending a cascade, — the symbol 
of effort and success in life, — and r. 
the lioness casting her cub down a 
precipice in order to harden it, both 
favourite motives with the artists 
of Japan. On the top of the tomb 
lies a remarkable stone, called the 
" tiger-stone " (tora-ishi). The ar- 
rangements for interring members 
of the sect are similar to those at 
Nishi Otani. 

Gion no Yashiro, also called 
Yasaka, stands just below Maru- 
yarna Park. 

This very popular Ryobu Shinto temple 
is said to have been founded in A.D. 656 
by a Korean envoy, in honour of Susa-no-o. 
Gion-ji was the name given to a Buddhist 
temple dedicated to Yakushi and Kwan- 
non which stood in the same enclosure, 
and by popular usage the name Gion 
came to be applied to the Shinto temple 
as well. Gion, it may be observed for 
the sake of those familiar with Indian 
Buddhism, is the Japanese rendering of 
Jetavana Vihara, the name of the park 
or monastery presented to Buddha by 
Anathapindaka. 

The chief building (Ronden) is 
roofed with a thick layer of bark. 
No admittance to the interior. 
A lively fair is held at Gion on the 
1st of each month. The annual 
festival takes place on the 17th and 
9Ath July. On the first of these 
dates the god goes to his Tdbisho, 
and on the second he returns. The 
mythological cars are handsome. 
Curious, too, is the " fire festival " 
held at midnight on the last night 
of the year, when the faithful come 
in crowds to get new fire for their 
households. 



334 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



The Dancing and Singing Girls' 
School (Nyokoba), near Gion, may- 
be found interesting. It should be 
visited about 11 a.m. Introduction 
from the Hotel necessary. 

Chion-in, the principal monas- 
tery of the Jodo sect, stands on a 
hill in Eastern Kyoto in a situation 
recalling that of many fortresses. 
Near its gate, in Awata-guchi, is the 
celebrated pottery of Kinko-zan. 

This temple was founded in A.D. 1211 
by Enko Daishi (see p. 71). Most of the 
present buildings date from 1630. 

A broad avenue between banks 
planted with cherry-trees leads 
up to the main gate, or Sammon, 
a huge two-storied structure, 81 ft. 
by 37^ ft,, the total height from the 
ground being 80 ft. One of two 
alternative nights of steps — one 
straight and steep, the other 
winding gently to the r. — con- 
ducts us to the great court and 
to the front of the main temple. 
On the r., on a small elevation 
among the trees, stands the belfry 
completed in 1618, containing 
the Great Bell, height, 10.8 ft.; 
diameter, 9 ft. ; thickness, 9} in. ; 
weight, nearly 74 tons. It was 
cast in 1633. The temple, which 
faces S., is 167 ft. in length bv 
138 ft. in depth, and 94} ft. in 
height from the ground. It is dedi- 
cated to Enko Daishi, whose shrine 
stands on a stage, called Shumi-dan, 
at the back of the chancel, within a 
space marked off by four lofty gilt 
pillars. The gilt metal lotuses in 
bronze vases, which stand before 
the front pillars, attain a height 
of 21 ft. from the floor, being nearly 
half the height of the building. 
The dimensions and the confine- 
ment of decoration to this single 
part render the interior very 
effective. On the W. of the chief 
shrine is a second containing 
memorial tablets of Ieyasu and his 
mother and of Hidetada, while 
on the opposite or E. side are 
Amida in the centre and the memo- 
rial tablets of successive abbots. 



Under the eaves' of the front gallery 
is an umbella (naga-e no kasa), 
said to have flown thither from the 
hands of a boy whose shape had 
been assumed by the Shinto god 
of Inari, guardian deity of this 
sanctuary. 

East of the main temple is the 
Library, containing a complete set 
of the Buddhist canon. Behind 
the main temple, is a gallery the 
creaking of whose floor is compared 
by the Japanese to the voice of 
the nightingale (uguisu-bari) ! This 
takes us to the Shuei-do, containing 
two handsome altars, one of which 
holds Amida by Eshin Sozu, with 
Kwannon and Seism* r. and 1., the 
other a very large gilt Amida by the 
brothers Kebunshi and Kebundo. 
To the r. of the large image sits 
Monju in the habit of a priest. 
After viewing these, one is shown 
over the Goten, or Palace built by 
lemitsu, which is divided into two 
parts, called respectively O-Hojo 
and Ko-Hojo. The decorations on 
the sliding-screens by artists of the 
Kano school are very fine, though 
some have faded. There are two 
rooms painted with cranes and 
pine-trees by Kano Naonobu ; then 
other rooms with pine-trees only, 
by Naonobu and Nobumasa, once 
occupied by the late Emperor. 
One fine room by Kano Eitoku has 
snow scenes. The next room, also 
adorned with snow scenes, was the 
reception room of the Imperial 
Prince chosen as high priest. The 
Sixteen Eakan in the next room to 
this are by Nobumasa. Returning 
to the back of the 0-ttdjo, we reach 
a small eight-matted room decorated 
by Naonobu with the plum and 
bamboo, which is called Miya Sam,a 
no o Tokudo no Ma, that is, "the 
room in which the Prince was 
initiated into the priesthood." The 
chrysanthemums in the room next 
to this are by Nobumasa, by whom 
too are the celebrated sparrows 
{nuke-suzume), which were so life- 
like that they flew away and left 
only a faint trace behind ? and the 



Awata Palace. Tai-kyoku-den. 



835 



i-naori no sayi, or " egret in the act 
of rising." In the verandah are a 
pair of wooden doors painted with 
pine-trees, which are said to have 
been so realistic as to exude resin. 
After these come rooms by Tan-yu, 
with willow-trees and plum-blos- 
soms covered with snow. 

After finishing with the Apart- 
ments, a long gallery takes the 
visitor from the main temple to a 
secondary one called Amida-do, 
which dates from 1910, and is a 
model at once of golden splendour 
and of good taste. A large image 
of Amida occupies the centre of the 
altar. The tomb of Enko Daishi 
is situated further up the hill, and 
is reached by ascending the steps 
E. of the main temple. His festival 
is celebrated on the 19th — 24th 
April with a grand religious service, 
and also with less pomp on the 
24th day of every month, on which 
occasion the great bell is rung. 
Close to Chion-in stands the 

Awata Palace (Aicata no Goten). 

It was built as a place of retirement 
for the Emperor Seiwa in A.D. 879. Down 
to the revolution of 1868, Awata was the 
residence of an Imperial Prince-Abbot, 
called Kuni-no-^Iiya. The old edifices 
having been destroyed by fire in 1893, one 
of them, the Shishin-den—a. miniature 
Imperial Palace— was rebuilt in 1895, 
another, called " the Small Palace of the 
Empress Go-Sakuramachi," in 1909. 

It merits a visit for the sake of 
its gold fusuma, still handsome 
despite the wear of age. The first 
room is by Tosa Mitsunobu ; second, 
Kano Eitoku; third, Sumiyoshi 
Gukei; fourth, Shimada Kazue- no- 
Kami ; fifth, Kand Kohdgen Motono- 
bu (this temple-like room contains 
the funeral tablets of several Em- 
perors); sixth, Kano Eitoku ; seventh 
(with the Imperial seat), Kano 
Juseki. All the rooms contain 
other art objects such as screens or 
imperial autographs. Ten of the 
sugi-do, or wooden doors, deserve 
special notice, on account of their 
quaint paintings by Sumiyoshi 
Gukei of the festival of Gion with 



its mythological cars. At the back 
of this suite of apartments runs a 
Gallery, in which are exhibited 
various screens, kakemonos, statues, 
etc. The second suite — that dating 
from 1909 — is next visited. It, too, 
is adorned with charming gold fu- 
suma by artists of the Kano school, 
brought from the castle of the lord 
of Akashi in Harima. Kand artists 
likewise executed the fine paintings 
of flowers and birds on the wooden 
doors. The Garden (by Soami and 
Kobori Enshu), with a tea kiosk, 
is visited last. The azaleas are 
specially numerous and beautiful. 
Up a mound at the back are the 
godown containing many treasures, 
and a resting-place which com- 
mands a good view of the N. part 
of the city, shut in r. by Hiei-zan, 
1. by Atago-yama. 

The Commercial Museum, 
just below Awata, deserves a visit, 
as specimens can there be inspect- 
ed of the products of the looms, 
kilns, and other art factories for 
which Kyoto is famous. A small 
Zoological Garden stands near. 

Hard by rises a highly interesting 
edifice known as the Tai-kycku- 
den, or Ileian Jingu, inaugurated 
in 1895 to commemorate the 
eleventh centenary of the founding 
of Kyoto by the Emperor Kwammu 
(see small type on page 315) in A.D. 
793-5. 

The object aimed at in this work was 
to reproduce, as faithfully as possible, 
the original Imperial Palace of that 
early age. Various considerations, how- 
ever, necessitated a reduction in scale 
(ranging in different parts from three- 
fifths to four-fifths of the original), and 
the omission of a Buddhist temple and 
a whole nest of official buildings that 
clustered around the ancient Mikado's 
abode. The site, too, is different, the 
original palace having stood not far from 
the modern Castle of Nijo. 

In the 8th century, Chinese ideas 
had recently civilised Japan, and 
penetrated into every domain of 
thought and activity. Hence the 
green porcelain tiles, the garish red 
and yellow paint, the tip-tilted 



336 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



turret roofs.* Wood is the material 
chiefly employed ; but the floors and 
steps are of stone, mostly granite. 
The red pilars are chamgecyparis 
wood lacquered over. There is a 
large central hall (the Tai-kyoku- 
den proper) ; and on either side of 
it, like wings, stretch semi-circular 
galleries ending in a pair of five- 
fold turrets, that on the r. being 
intended for a drum-tower, that on 
the 1. for a belfry, as the drum and 
bell were the two instruments 
employed to regulate the Court 
ceremonial. There were no mats 
in those days, and the doors re- 
sembled rather those of European 
houses than the sliding paper doors 
of modern Japan. Eight round 
the enclosure runs a low red paling 
with gold knobs (giboshi). There is 
a spacious court in front of the 
Tai-kyoku-den, to which a fine 
gateway of architecture similar to 
that of the main building gives 
access. Behind is a Shinto shrine 
where the Emperor Kwammu is 
worshipped, and behind it again, 
out in the street, a tall metal monu- 
ment called S5rinto (see illustration 
on p. 195). 

A " Historical Festival " (Judai Matsuri) 
takes place here annually on the 22nd 
October, its name being derived from 
the circumstance that the costumes of 
various periods of Japanese history are 
represented in it. Deputations from the 
different wards of the city meet in front 
of the Municipal Hall, and march in 
procession through the principal streets 
to the Tai-kyoku-den. 

Next door to the Tai-kyoku-den 
stands the Butoku-den, or Hall 
of the Military Virtues Society, 
which was founded in 1896, and now 
numbers over a million members of 
both sexes and all ages from eight 
years upwards. Here may be seen 
almost daily contests of fencing, 
jujutsu, archery, etc. Special func- 
tion on the 4-7th May. 

On the way to Nanzenji one 
passes what looks like a railway, 
but is really only a portage between 
the two sections of the Lake 
Biwa, Canal where the boats 



which navigate on either side are 
placed on trucks and rolled along 
for a few hundred yards. This 
spot is called Ke-age. Through the 
grounds of Nanzenji, too, passes the 
aqueduct that conveys water from 
Otsu to Kyoto, — a red brick struc- 
ture, whose arches rather add to 
than deteriorate from the pictur- 
esqueness of the place. From Ke- 
age the visitor should send round 
his jinrikisha to meet him, while he 
walks in a few min. along the 
aqueduct to the temple of 

Nanzenji. 

This temple of the Zen sect was inhabi- 
ted by the Emperor Kameyama at the 
end of the 13th century, and rebuilt by 
Ieyasu in 1606. The main edifice, burnt 
in 1895, was rebuilt in 1910, but the priest's 
apartments escaped the fire, as did the 
two-storied gateway, dating from 1628, 
in which the famous robber Ishikawa 
Groemon (see p. 75) is said to have taken 
up his abode. 

The Apartments {Hojo) deserve 
inspection, — both the front suite, 
though time has somewhat dimmed 
the fusuma by artists of the Kand 
school, and more especially the 
back suite ( Ura-Hojo), which is re- 
splendent with large life-like tigers 
on a gold ground by Tan-yu. A 
final room behind, once tenanted 
by the Emperor Go-Ydzei, is ex- 
tremely ornate with a large water- 
fail and Chinese female beauties in 
ideal landscape. There are also 
many kakemonos and screens, 
which are changed from time to 
time. The Garden is in the seve- 
rest cha-no-yu style, — to European 
eyes merely a small sandy court 
with a few stones and forlorn 
bushes; but Japanese imagination 
sees in it a representation of the 
place where the tigress teaches her 
young how to cross a river. — The 
Emperor Kameyama's actual abode, 
stands on the opposite side of the 
road, but is not shown to visitors. 
His grave is in the garden. An- 
other of the attached buildings, 
sometimes shown and called Kon- 
chi-in f has spacious Apartments 



Temples of Eikwando and Kurodani. 



337 



adorned with fusuma by artists of 
the Kand school besides other 
treasures. It was a residence of 
the Sh5guns when they visited 
Kyoto. 

Eikwando is a temple situated 
amidst maples and pines, with 
lichen-covered graves rising tier 
above tier, and various antique 
buildings on the hillside. 

Originally founded in A.D. 855, this 
temple of the Jodo sect was restored in 
the 2nd year of the Eikwan period (A.. D. 
984), whence its name and that of its most 
famous abbot (1032-1111). 

The main building which holds a 
famous image called Mi-kaeri no 
Amida, or "Amida Looking over 
his Shoulder," was repaired about 
1889 in handsome style. The 
image is 2 J ft. high, the drapery 
well-rendered, the head half -turned 
round to the 1., as if looking back- 
wards. It is kept enclosed in a 
shrine on the high altar, and those 
desirous of viewing it must apply 
to the priest in charge. The image 
will then be unveiled with some 
little pomp and circumstance, 
tapers lighted, and a bell rung, 
while the priest mounts up on the 
altar beside the image, and recites 
the legend. 

It is as follows : Eikwan, who used to 
spend his time in walking round the im- 
age repeatiDg the formula Namu Amida, 
one day heard his name called twice or 
thrice, and looking round, perceived the 
image with its face turned in his direc- 
tion, and so it has remained fixed unto 
this day. Eikwan's own statue is one of 
those placed to the r. of the altar and 
a little behind it, so that Amida now 
permanently looks towards him. A 
sequel to the legend says that a certain 
Daimyo, lord of Akashi, having doubted 
the image's power, struck it on the right 
side in order to see what would happen, 
whereupon blood flowed from the wound 
down on to its breast. 

The pond at Eikwando is a favour- 
ite spot for picnics. 

Immediately beyond Eikwand5 
lies Nyakvs-oji, in a shady glen, 
whither the townsfolk resort in 
summer to make merry with wine, 
to bathe under the slender water- 



fall, and to view the maples 
in autumn. Just above is a little 
Christian cemetery, where, among 
others, the first Protestant leader, 
Joseph Niijima, lies buried. 

Kurodani is another temple of 
the Jodo sect, beautifully situated on 
the side of a wooded hill. Annual 
festival, 19-24th April. 

It stands on the spot where the founder, 
Honen Shonin built his humble cabin on 
abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-zan, 
and is named after the "black ravine" on 
that mountain where he had previously 
resided. The temple of Kurodani was be- 
gun at the end of the 13th century, but 
the present buildings date only from the 
latter part of the 18th century. The chief 
historical interest of Kurodani is its 
connection with the true and touching 
story of Kumagai Naozane (see p. 78), 
who here exchanged the sword of the 
soldier for the monk's rosary and life- 
long penance. 

The two two-storied main gate 
impresses the beholder by its simple 
strength and sober good taste. In 
front of the main temple are two 
curiously trained pine-trees, — one 
called Ogi no Matsu because fan- 
shaped, the other to the r., Yoroi- 
kake-matsu, because Naozane is said 
to have hung up his armour on it. 
The altar of the main temple is 
a grand mass of gold, with a 
gold baldachin in the centre, while 
all around hang beautiful silk 
banners (maru-bata) and the metal 
ornaments known as keman, which 
represent the head-dresses of fai- 
ries. A richly gilt shrine contains 
the effigy of Honen Shonin, carved 
by himself in 1207, and first brought 
to this monastery in 1609 ; it is a 
seated wooden figure, with the paint 
rubbed off: by frequent cleaning. 
Two long lacquered boards, with 
texts containing the fundamental 
maxims of the sect, hang on the 
pillars r. and 1. of the altar. Behind 
the altar, in the gallery, is a large 
bold picture of Seishi Bosatsu, 
called happo shomen, because the 
eyes seem to look straight at the 
beholder, wherever he may stand. 
It is by Tansaku. Some very large 



338 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



and splendid kakemonos are dis- 
played in this temple from time 
to time. One is a painted man- 
dara (see p. 94), a modern copy of 
a celebrated piece of embroidery in 
lotus- threads by Chujo-Hime. The 
other, dating from 1669, is embroid- 
ered, and is an excellent specimen 
of that art. It represents Buddha's 
Entry into Nirvana [Nehan-zb). 

In the Apartments, which are 
fine and spacious, a number of 
works of art are preserved. Speci- 
ally noteworthy — indeed unique in 
Kyoto — are the sliding-screens by 
Kubota Beisen in a suite of three 
rooms, — one decorated with terrific 
dragons, one with a phoenix and 
lions, one with tigers more than 
life-size, all in black on a gold 
ground and in perfect preserva- 
tion. This artist's style, though 
not free from conventionality, hits 
off the characteristic of each ani- 
mal to the life ; the tigress with 
her cubs is a particularly re- 
markable achievement. A beautiful 
object — the combined product of 
Beisen's vigorous pencil and of the 
lacquerer's and metal-worker's skill 
— is a set of panels representing 
the pine, bamboo, and plum-blos- 
som in a room called Mikado 
Nari, because Emperors have hon^ 
oured it with their presence. The 
folding-screens and kakemonos and 
miscellaneous objects of art and 
antiquity are too often changed to 
admit of detailed mention. The 
following, however, seem to be 
permanent : — a grotesque black 
statuette of Jurojin by Hidari Jin- 
gor5, a remarkable kakemono of 
fifty Buddhas whose bodies and 
halos turn out on inspection to be 
nothing but the Buddhist invocation 
Namu Amida Butsu constantly re- 
peated, a gilt statue of Amida by 
Eshin, and round the walls of the 
same room the whole biography of 
Hdnen Shonin in a set of minutely 
and brilliantly painted kakemonos 
by an unknown artist. The fossil 
head and horn of some animal 
asserted to be no less than a dragon 



are displayed with much pride. In 
another room is an autograph of 
Honen Shonin in a magnificent 
gilt shrine adorned with birds of 
paradise in relief, and in a small 
separate room a kakemono of Nao- 
zane, together with his rosary, his 
enormous rice-pestle, and his tre- 
mendously long and heavy sword. 
No wonder that the hero is alleged to 
have been 7 ft. 8 inches in stature ! 
Next come more images, Amida by 
Jikaku Daishi with Fudo and 
Benten, and beyond these a kake- 
mono of the Five-and-twenty Bo- 
satsu,— Amida in the middle, with 
rays of light streaming from his 
eye. The last rooms shown have 
sliding-screens by Tessai, — very 
bold black and white foliage, — and a 
beautiful flight of crows by Beisen. 
Behind the Apartments lies a pretty 
garden, the water meandering 
through which is called Yori-sute 
no Ike, because Naozane threw his 
armour into it. 

On quitting this temple, the visi- 
tor should glance in (ahead and to 
the 1.) at the fine large gilt image of 
Amida by Genshi Sozu, in the lesser 
shrine dedicated to that deity. 
The Kumagai-dOy dedicated to the 
memory of Kumagai Naozane, who 
dwelt in this hut (as it then was) 
for over twenty years, looks very 
shabby after the magnificence of 
the main temple ; but the quantity 
of small ex-voto tablets with which 
it is plastered, prove it to be a 
shrine popular with the common 
people. 

An inspection of these tablets will show 
that every one of them represents a child 
having its head shaved (not cut off, as 
might at a first glance be supposed!). ' 
They are presented as grateful tokens by 
the parents of children who had hitherto 
always howled when being shaved, but 
who came to enjoy that operation in con- 
sequence of an application of the holy 
water from the neighbouring well. 

The graves of Kumagai and 
Atsumori lie off the way, and are 
scarcely worth turning aside to see. 
But the walk through the Cemetery 



Ginkaku-ji. 



and the wood to the next sight — 
Shinnyo-do — comes as a relief after 
much temple-Tiering. The Ceme- 
tery, which is extensive and pretti- 
ly situated on the side of a hill 
crowned by a pagoda, contains 
several large bronze Buddhas. Most 
of the graves are those of Kyoto 
tradesfolk. Towards the end 1. is a 
monument formed of numerous 
ancient grave-stones, heaped to- 
gether and surmounted by a tutel- 
ary Buddhist deity. The temple of 
Shinnyo-do itself, which is a solid 
structure belonging to the Tendai 
sect, has on its handsome high altar 
an image of Amida attributed to 
Jikaku Daishi. At the back of the 
altar is a fine picture of Shaka, with 
Fugen and Monju on his r. The 
inscription on the tablet over the 
entrance is by Kobo Daishi. 

The characters on this tablet are, or 
should be jjl $P ^, Shin-nyo-do. But 
the middle one is not perfectly formed, 
whence the proverb Kobo mo fude no 
ayamari, "Even Kobo Daishi sometimes 
wrote wrong," as we say that " Homer 
nods." Kobo Daishi, be it remarked, 
was as famous for his calligraphy as for 
his piety and intellectual and physical 
vigour. 

Before reaching the next great 
sight, we pass the prettily situated 
temple of Honen-in. 

Ginkaku-ji stands outside the 
N.E. end of Kyoto, at the base of 
a range of hills forming a spur of 
Hiei-zan. 

In 1479 Ashikaga Yoshimasa, after his 
abdication of the Shogun's dignity, built 
himself a summer palace here. The two- 
storied buildiDg, called Ginkaku (Silver 
Pavilion), was a summer house in the 
garden of his principal reception hall, 
built in imitation of the Kinkaku, or 
Golden Pavilion, of one of his predeces- 
sors (see p. 319). The garden was designed 
by Soami. It was at Ginkaku-ji that 
Yoshimasa, with Soami and Shuko, his 
favourites, practised the tea ceremonies, 
which their patronage elevated almost to 
the lank of a fine art. 

The visitor is first shown over the 
Apartments, the artist of which par 
excellence is Buson. His sliding- 
screens are all either black and 



white, or else in the very pale 
style called usu-zaishilcL One 
room Taigado, is by another art- 
ist. After the rooms thus adorned 
come two rooms dating from 1895, 
a reproduction of a little suite in 
which the Shogun Yoshimasa used 
to practise the aesthetic art of in- 
cense-sniffing.* Next is a tiny tea- 
room, the first in Japan built in 
accordance with the canon pre- 
scribing 4 J mats as the proper size 
for such rooms. It has some paint- 
ings by Soami, Okyo, and Hogen 
Motonobu, almost effaced by time. 
We then reach a room adorned with 
small figures of Kubota Beisen, and 
another containing an image of 
Yoshimasa in priestly robes, very 
brown with age but startlingly 
life-like. To this succeed other 
rooms with screens and kakemonos 
by Kose-no-Kanaoka, Sesshu, Ch5 
Densu, etc. Outside all these 
last is the Garden, which produces 
a charming effect, derived in 
part from the genuinely natural 
aspect imparted to it by the high 
thickly pine-clad hill behind. The 
curiously shaped heap of white sand 
seen on entering the garden is 
called Gin Shadan, or the Silver 
Sand Platform; it keeps so hard 
as only to need raking every forty 
days. Here Yoshimasa used to sit 
and hold aesthetic revels. The 
smaller one behind is called Kb- 
getsu-dai, or Mound Facing the 
Moon, where he used to moon-gaze. 
There is a lake of course, as in all 
these gardens; and as usual, each 
stone, each bridge, each tree of any 
size has its name. The rill is called 
Sen-getsu-sen, or the Moon- washing 
Fountain ; a stone in the pond is 
the Stone of Ecstatic Contempla- 
tion; a little bridge is the Bridge 
of the Pillar of the Immortals, etc., 
etc. The (very dingy) Ginkaku, 
or Pavilion, never was coated with 
silver, as its name would im- 
ply, Yoshimasa having died before 



* See Things Japanese, article " Incense 
Parties." 



340 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



he had got so far; but there are 
traces of ornament and colour. It 
contains a quaint little altar with a 
thousand tiny images of Jizo and, 
upstairs, a gilt wooden image of 
Kwannon by Unkei, in the hollow 
trunk of a sandal-wood tree. The 
priestly guide will probably offer 
the visitor tea in the cha-no-yu style. 

The modern brick buildings in 
this neighbourhood are those of 
the Imperial Kyoto University, estab- 
lished in 1897. 

Shimo-Gamo. 

Founded in A.D. 677, this was one of 
the " twenty-two chief temples " of the 
empire, and is still one of those main- 
tained at the expense of the state. Out- 
side the watch-house facing the main 
gate, is suspended a long picture of 
Komei Tenno's progress hither in 1863, — 
a great event at the time, as it was a 
practical demonstration of the possibility 
of the Mikado emerging from his se- 
clusion to take part in matters political, 
and thus inaugurated the system under 
which his son, the late Emperor, governed 
as well as reigned. 

This extensive set of Shinto re- 
ligious buildings, now sadly dingy 
with age, stands in a splendid grove 
of patriarchal maples, cryptomerias, 
and evergreen oaks. The temple 
is surrounded by a red and white 
colonnade, with a two-storied gate- 
house of the same colours. One of 
the smaller shrines near the ex-voto 
shed is the object of a peculiar 
superstition. It is believed that 
evergreens of any species resem- 
bling the holly will be converted 
into holly if planted before this 
shrine ; and shrubs supposed to be 
in process of transformation are 
pointed out by the hostess of the 
adjacent tea-stall. 

On the 15th May, a procession 
leaves the Imperial Palace to visit 
this temple and the next, affording 
a good opportunity of seeing the 
ancient official costumes. There are 
also horse-races. .This festival 
is called Aoi Mat sun, and is a 
survival of the custom of occasional 
visits to these temples by the Mika- 
do in person. 



A pretty road leads from Shimo- 
Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an 
avenue of pine-trees 50 chb long, 
formerly the scene of many an Im- 
perial progress, with the Kamo- 
gawa to the r., up whose course 
the avenue leads, while Hiei-zan 
rises behind it and Kurama-yama 
ahead. 

Kami-Gamo. 

This Shinto temple is usually said to 
have been founded in A.D. 677. Accord- 
ing to the legend, as Tama-yori-Hime, 
daughter of the god Kamo-no-Taketsumi, 
was walking by the side of the stream, 
there came floating towards her a red 
arrow winged with a duck's feather, 
which she picked up and carried home. 
Shortly afterwards she was discovered to 
be pregnant, and she eventually gave 
birth to a son. The father was unknown ; 
and as her parents disbelieved her asser- 
tion that she had never known a man, 
they determined, as soon as the child 
could understand what was said to it, to 
solve the mystery by resorting to a kind 
of ordeal. Inviting all the villagers to a 
feast, they gave the child a wine-cup, 
telling him to offer it to his father ; but 
instead of taking it to any of the com- 
pany, he ran out of the house and placed 
it in front of the arrow which Tama-yori- 
Hime had thrust into the roof. Then 
transforming himself into a thunderbolt, 
he ascended to heaven, followed by his 
mother. This myth evidently originated 
in an attempt to account for the name 
of the river Kamo, which means " wild- 
duck." 

The temple buildings, numerous 
and extensive, are now shabby with 
age; but the park is spacious and 
impressive. 

Shugaku-in* is an Imperial 
garden, or set of gardens, on a 
spur of Hiei-zan, planned by the 
Emperor Go-Mizuno-o in the 17th 
century, and added to by Kokaku 
Tenno, great grandfather of the 
present sovereign. Charming view 
from the top over the Kyoto plain, 
the N. half of the city, the pine- 
clad hills, and the gardens them- 
selves below. Of the small wooden 
structures which the guide points 
out, the first and fourth are merely 
rooms for the tea- ceremonies, and 
the third a rest-house. The second 

* Not accessible to the general public. 



Rapids of the Katsura-gaiva. 



341 



alone, named Shoin, which was 
the Empress's dressing apartment, 
deserves careful inspection. It 
contains some pretty sliding 
screens and unusually fine 
painted doors by Sumiyoshi Gukei, 
— two showing quaintly elaborate 
cars full of revellers at the Gion 
festival, and one of large fish in a 
net. The bridge further on is in 
Chinese style. — To one, like the 
Mikado of old, continually shut 
up between narrow walls and an 
etiquette as narrow, the change 
must have been refreshing indeed 
to this height whence the city could 
be seen only in the dim distance, 
and all around was sweet verdure 
and rural stillness. But visitors 
who may think of including Shu- 
gaku-in towards the end of a long 
day, are warned that it entails a 
good deal of climbing up and down 
the hillside, especially as the fur- 
thest parts are the best. 

Environs of Ky5to. 

As may easily be seen by reference 
to the map, several of the temples 
and other places already mentioned 
are, strictly speaking, in the envi- 
rons of Kyoto rather than within 
the limits of the city itself, owing 
to the notable shrinkage of the 
latter in modern times. The 
following, however, he still further 
afield, demanding each the greater 
part of a day to do comfortably. 

1. Rapids of the Katsura- 
gawa and Arashi-yama, famed 
for cherry-blossoms and autumn 
tints (see also p. 321). This expedi- 
tion makes a pleasing variety in 
the midst of days spent in visiting 
temples. The best way* is as fol- 
lows :— jinrikisha from the hotel to 
Xijo station on the W. side of the 
city, whence rail to Kameoka, 
| hr., and from there on foot or 
by jinrikisha in about 10 min. to 
the vill. of Hbzu. The short rail- 



*The electric tram starting from Shijo 
is less convenient. 



way trip is highly picturesque, the 
line running along just above the 
dashing river. The engineering 
difficulties to be overcome were 
great, and no less than eight tunnels 
had to be pierced on the way up 
the side of the ravine. At Hozu, 
boat is taken for the descent of the 
rapids down to the landing-place 
at Arashi-yama. The charge for 
a large boat is 6J yen, with 1 yen 
additional for each extra man in 
flood-time, unless the river be so 
high that they decline to go altoge- 
ther. But it is advisable to reach 
Hozu before noon, as 50 sen extra 
is charged after that hour for each 
man, on the ground of their not 
being able to re-ascend the river the 
same day. (Visitors from Kobe or 
Osaka must change at the Kyoto 
station into a Kameoka car.) 

The Rapids commence about 10 
min. below Hozu. The bed of the 
river is very rocky, but the stream 
at its ordinary height not particular- 
ly swift. The scenery is charming, 
the river at once entering the hills 
which soon rise precipitously on 
either hand, and continuing its 
course between them for about 13 
miles to Arashi-yama. Of the nume- 
rous small rapids and races, the 
following are a few of the most 
exciting: — Koya no taki, or Hut 
Eapids, a long race terminating in a 
pretty rapid, the narrow passage 
being between artificially construct- 
ed embankments of rock; Takase, 
or High Rapid; Shishi no Kuchi, or 
The Lion's Mouth; and Tonase- 
daki, the last on the descent, where 
the river rushes between numerous 
rocks and islets. One ri before 
reaching Arashi-yama, the Kiyotaki- 
gawa falls in on the 1. The passage 
takes on an average about 1J hr., 
but less in flood-time. There are 
several good tea-houses at the land- 
ing-place at Arashi-yaina, whence 
to the chief hotels in Kyoto takes 
less than 1 hr. in jinrikisha with 
two men; or one may avail one- 
self of the train between Saga and 
Nijo stations. 



342 



Route 37. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 



2. Over Hiei-zan to Otsu and 
back. This delightful excursion 
may be varied as to its details. 
Even pedestrians should in any 
case take jinrikisha over the flat to 
Shirakawa (about 40 min. from the 
hotels), whence walk up to Shimei- 
ga-take — the highest point of the 
mountain — and down to Sakamoto, 
one of the jinrikisha-men acting as 
guide; an alternative is to go on 
horseback the whole way. At Shimo 
Sakamoto new jinrikishas should be 
engaged, and the great pine-tree of 
Karasaki visited on the way into 
Otsu, whence return to Kyoto by 
one of the ways indicated on p. 345. 
— Another plan, affording, perhaps, 
the best impression of the former 
temple city is to take jinrikisha to 
Yase. 

From time immemorial, the nurses for 
infants of the Imperial family have been 
drawn from among the stalwart women 
of this village and of the neighbouring 
village of Ohara. 

(about 6m.), whence on foot or in 
kago to the top through beautiful 
lines of trees and temple grounds, 
and down to Kami Sakamoto. It is 
a long day's trip in either case. 
The celebrated view from the sum- 
mit of Hiei-zan includes a fine 
panorama of the valley of Kyoto 
and of Lake Biwa and its shores. 
Only towards the N. is the prospect 
cut off by Hirayama. Arrangements 
should be made for lunching at the 
summit, in order to enjoy the view 
at leisure. This grassy spot, known 
by the name of Shimei-ga-take, rises 
to a height of some 2,700 ft. above 
sea-level. The stone figure in a 
stone box on the top represents 
Dengyo Daishi (see p. 71), so placed 
that he may gaze forever at the Im- 
perial Palace in Kyoto. Should the 
weather turn bad or be too cold for 
lunching on the hill-top, shelter 
may be found at a tea-shed called 
Benkei-jaya, 8 cho on the way down 
to Sakamoto. 

[Those bent on temple-seeing 
might like to make a detour 



of \ hr. from this tea-shed to 
some buildings lying away 
down the N. side of the moun- 
tain, namely, the Jodo-in, where 
Dengyo Daishi reposes, the 
Benkei Ninai-do, so-called be- 
cause Benkei is reputed to have 
carried hither the two buildings 
composing it, by balancing on 
his shoulder the corridor which 
connects them, the Shaka-do in 
good preservation, and a fine 
gilt Sbrintb (see p. 195). 

A further detour, not recom- 
mended, takes one some 8 cho 
lower still to the decaying 
temple of Kurodani (cf. p. 
337), which lies in a sombre 
ravine. All these holy places 
are visited by pilgrims.] 

The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie- 
no-yama, perhaps meaning the Chilly- 
Mountain ; and the Shinto temple of Hie- 
at Sakamoto at the E. foot of the moun- 
tain, popularly known as Sanno Sama, is 
called after it. Hiei-zan doubtless gained 
religious importance from the fact of 
its position N.E. of the Imperial Palace 
at Kyoto {cf. p. 127, small type). Dur- 
ing the middle ages, Hiei-zan was covered 
with Buddhist temples and seminaries 
collectively known as Enryaku-ji, the 
total aggregate of such buildings being 
stated at the extraordinary number of 
3,000 ; and the monks, who were often 
ignorant, truculent, and of disorderly 
habits, became the terror of Kyoto, on 
which peaceful city they would sweep 
down after the manner of banditti. At 
last, in 1571, the great warrior Nobunaga, 
in order to revenge himself upon the 
monks for having sided with his enemy 
Asakura, Lord of Echizen, attacked the 
temples and committed them to the 
flames. The monks were dispersed far 
and wide until the accession to power 
of the Tokugawa Shoguns, who re-estab- 
lished the institution on a smaller scale. 

On the way down from Hiei-zan 
towards Lake Biwa, several of the 
Buddhist buildings that have sur- 
vived to the present day are passed, 
notably the massive Chiido and 
Kbdb, till at the base, just before 
the vill. of Kami Sakamoto we 
reach the large Shinto temple of 
Sanno or Hiyoshi, together with a 
number of subsidiary shrines, some 
so small as almost to look like toys. 



Environs of Kyoto. 



343 



The stillness of the now half-desert- 
ed temples, the shade of the grand 
old trees, and the plashing of rills of 
water through the spacious grounds, 
produce an impression of solemnity 
and peace. (From the Chudo there 
is an alternative way down 1., — 
prettier still, but longer. Some 
popular shrines dot the mountain 
on this side.) The annual festival 
of Hiyoshi on the 14th April is cele- 
brated with great pomp, the sacred 
cars being then taken to Karasaki 
and back by water. 

3. Anshu-no-Bisliamon, the 
way to this temple leads along the 
Otsu road and then oft it to the 
Yiil. of Shinomiya, altogether 40 
min. by jinrikisha with two men. It 
is advisable to have an introduc- 
tion. The temple, which dates 
from 1696, was formerly occupied 
by a member of the Kitashirakawa 
branch of the Imperial family, who 
was high priest here. It contains 
a beautiful lacquered floor, some 
finefusuma by Kano Dd-un, screens 
and painted wooden_ doors, notice- 
ably one of fish by Okyo. 

4. Takao-zan, to the N.W. of 
the city, is a hill noted for its maple- 
trees, whose crimson leaves all 
Kyoto turns out to view in the first 
half of November. The best are 
those in a glen through which runs 
the Takano-gawa and others on the 
hill-top, where stand some old tem- 
ple buildings, and where, in the 
season, tea-booths provide for the 
comfort of visitors. This involves 
some walking. The expedition can 
be accomplished in half a day ; but 
a small permanent tea-house may 
be availed of for a picnic by those 
not pressed for time. — Not far off 
is Aiago-yama (2,900 ft.), conspicu- 
ous by the lump or knob on its 
summit which commands a fine 
view. Here, overlooking the plain, 
stand some Shinto shrines and a 
fine bronze torii with a wild-boar in 
relief. The charms sold at this 
place are believed to possess special 
efficacy against fire. The expedi- 
tion can easily be done in a day. 



5. Kurama-yama is a hill lying 
some 2 ri beyond Daitokuji (p. 319). 
The walk back to Kyoto may be 
varied by striking over the hills to 
Shizuhara and Ohara, whence to 
Yase is a distance of lj ri. From 
Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is 2J ri. 

6. Otoko - yama - no - Hachi- 
man-g-u, also called Yawata-san, 
situated to the S. of Kyoto is best 
reached by the Electric Eailway 
going from the Gojo Bridge to 
Osaka, which passes the base of 
the hill. — a 35 min. run. The 
fine temple, which is dedicated to 
the God of War (pp. 46-7), stands 
on a hill some 300 ft. above the 
river, and is built in the Kyobu- 
Shinto style. In former times, 
pilgrims were allowed to walk round 
the outer edge of the corridor 
surrounding the building, so that 
they were able to see the golden 
gutter (kin no toyu-dake) between 
the eaves of the oratory and shrine, 
— a costly curiosity 80 ft. long, 3 ft. 
wide, and over 1 inch in thickness, 
which remains undisturbed despite 
the strong temptation to convert it 
into current coin. From the E. 
gate a few flights of steps descend 
to the well called Iwa-shi-mizii, that 
is, " pure rock water," from which 
the official name of the temple is 
derived. Annual festival on the 
15 -19 th January. 

Close to Y^amazaki station (Tokai- 
d5 Eailway) is Tennb-zan, with the 
pagoda of Takara-dera, 200 ft. above 
the river bank. 

At Tenno-zan is localised one of the 
moral tales on which Japanese youth is 
brought up._ A frog born at Kyoto started 
off to see Osaka, and by dint of many 
hops got as far as the top of this hill 
which is about half-way. Whom should 
he meet there but an Osaka frog bent on 
a like errand, that of enlarging his know- 
ledge by a visit to Kyoto, the great capital. 
Both being very tired and the hill being 
so high that it afforded an excellent 
panorama of either city, they decided to 
rest and look about them._ " For " said 
the Kyoto frog, " I can see Osaka"; " and 
I," said the Osaka frog, " can see Kyoto, 
if we but stand on tiptoe and look ahead." 
Great was the disappointment of the 
Kyoto frog on finding nothing strange 



344 



Route 38. — Lake Biwa. 



or rare in the Osaka view while the Osaka 
frog exclaimed, " Why ! there is not a 
bit of difference between Kyoto and my 
own birthplace." So they both agreed 
that there was no use in going further, 
and each accordingly returned the way 
he had come. The fact was that the frogs 
forgot that their eyes were set in the 
backs of their heads, and that when they 
stood up, they consequently saw what 
was behind them, not what was in front. 
This story shows how difficult it is for 
stupid folks to learn anything even from 
experience. 



KOUTE 38. 



Lake Biwa. 

1 . general information : lake 
biwa canal. 2. kyoto to otsu. 
miidera. seta bridge. ishi- 
tama-dera. 3. hikone. naga- 
hama. chikubu-shima. 

1.— General Information. 

Glimpses of this beautiful lake, 
whose southern and eastern shores 
are classic ground, can be obtained 
from the carriage windows by those 
travelling on the Tokaido Railway 
between the stations of Maibara 
and Baba ; but they are glimpses 
only. To explore the Lake Biwa 
district thoroughly, the proper 
plan is— taking Kyoto as the start- 
ing-point — to go to Otsu either by 
train or tram, or else to go over 
Hiei-zan, as explained on p. 342, to 
do the_ southern end of the lake 
from Otsu as a centre, and then 
to take one of the little steamers 
which ply daily between Otsu, 
Hikone, and Nagahama on the E. 
shore ; then back to Otsu and along 
the W. shore by steamer of another 
line to Katata, Katsuno, etc., ending 
up at Shiotsu at the N. extremity 
(compare beginning of Route 45). 



This latter trip from Otsu to Shio- 
tsu — the longest on the lake — ■ 
occupies 5| hrs. Steamers also cross 
daily from Nagahama to Imazu, 
proceeding thence to Otsu. 

The Lake of Omi, generally called Lake 
Biwa (Biwa-ko in Japanese), on account of 
a fancied resemblance between its shape 
and that of the native guitar, measures 
some 36 m. in length by 12 m. in width. 
Its area is approximately equal to that of 
the Lake of Geneva. Dr. Rein gives its 
height at about 100 metres (328 ft.) above 
the level of the sea; and its greatest 
depth is said to be the same, but in most 
places is much less. From Katata to- 
wards Seta it becomes very narrow, while 
the northern part is oval in shape. On 
the W. side the mountain ranges of Hiei- 
zan and Hirayama descend nearly to the 
shore, while on the E. a wide plain 
extends towards the boundary of Mino. 
There are a few small islands in the lake, 
of which Chikubu-shima near the N. end 
is the most celebrated. According to a 
legend long firmly credited, Lake Biwa 
owed its existence to a great earthquake 
in the year 286 B.C., while Mount Fuji 
rose out of the plain of Suruga at the 
same moment. Constant reference is 
made in Japanese poetry and art to the 
"Eight Beauties of Omi" (Omi Ilak-kei), 
the idea of which was derived, like most 
other Japanese things, from China, where 
there are or were eight beauties at a place 
called Siao-Siang. The Eight Beauties of 
Omi are : the Autumn Moon seen from 
Ishiyama, the Evening Snow on Hira- 
yama, the Sunset Glow at Seta, the Even- 
ing Bell of Miidera, the Boats sailing back 
from Yabase, a Bright Sky with a Breeze 
at Awazu, Bain by Night at Karasaki, 
and the Wild-geese alighting at Katata. 
As usual, convention enters largely into 
this Japanese choice of specially lovely 
scenes; but all foreigners will admit 
the great general beauty of the southern 
portion of the lake in which most of 
them lie. Fish are taken in large quan- 
tities, and the curious arrow-shaped 
fish-trap (eri) lining the shore will be 
among the first objects to attract atten- 
tion. The fish are driven into the inner 
corners of the hollow barb, and being 
once in cannot get out again. 

An interesting work is the Lake 
Biwa Canal, which, with the Kamogawa 
Canal, the Kamogawa itself, and the 
Yodogawa has brought Lake Biwa_into 
navigable communication with Osaka 
Bay. It was opened to traffic in 1890, 
and supplies water-power to mills and 
factories in Kyoto. The main canal is 
6| m. in length, and in parts of its course 
runs through tunnels. The total fall is 
143 ft.; and at Ke-age, near its entrance 
into Kyoto, the greater part of this fall 



Kyoto to Otsu. 



345 



is utilised for traffic by means of an 
incline | m. in length, along which the 
"boats, placed in wheeled cradles, are 
drawn by an electric motor stationed at 
the foot of the incline. At Ee-age, at 
the top of the incline, the water of the 
canal divides, one part flowing in a 
branch canal o^ m. long, which runs 
north of Kyoto and is available only for 
irrigation and water-power. The other 
part is conveyed in pipes to the foot of 
the incline, where, before again forming 
a navigable canal, it serves to give the 
power needed to wort the electric 
motor which, by means of a wire cable, 
runs the boats up and down the incline. 
From the foot of the incline there is 
another stretch of open canal, with a 
regulating lock between it and the old 
canal leading to Fushimi. But this old 
canal being able to pass only boats of 
small draught, is of little use ; and a 
new one has been made to Sumizome 
at Fushimi. This, the Kamogawa Canal 
already mentioned, has eight locks 
and one incline, and carries heavy 
cargo and passenger boats. A curious 
personal item in connection with the 
matter is the fact that the design of such 
a water-way, which should also be suited 
for the transport of men and merchan- 
dise, was made the subject of the gradu- 
ation thesis for the diploma of the College 
of Engineering in Tokyo by a student 
who then became the engineer entrusted 
with the execution of the work. His 
name is Tanabe Sakuro. Having lost the 
use of the ringers of his right hand, all 
the writing and drawings for his essay 
were done with the left hand. 

The natural drainage of the lake is by 
a river flowing out of its S. end, which 
bears in succession the names of Seta- 
gawa, Fjigawa, and Yodogawa. After 
passing circuitously down near Fushimi, 
where it receives the waters of the canal, 
it falls into the sea at Osaka. 

2. Fp.om Kyoto to Otsu. Otsu 
and Neighbourhood. 

There are four ways from Kyoto 
to Otsu, namely : — 

I. By Canal (Sosui) from Ke-age 
in about 2 hrs. to Mio-ga-saki below 
Miidera, A party should engage 
a private boat. Three tunnels of 
respectively S cho, 2 Cho, and 24 cho 
are passed through, the rest of the 
way being in the open. This is 
more often availed of in the con- 
trary direction, time 1 hr. 

II. By electric tram from Sanjo 
Bridge or from Ke-age (just below 
the Miyako Hotel) to Otsu (Fuda-no- 



tsuji), J hr., whence 10 min. walk to 
Miidera. 

HI. By the Tokaido Railway in 
about J hr. The Otsu station, 
called Baba, stands some way out 
of the town. For this reason, and 
also on account of the excellence of 
the highway, which is part of the 
historic Tokaido, and still retains 
some of the bustle and picturesque- 
ness of former days, many prefer 

IV. To do the distance by jin- 
rikisha, 6J miles. One may also 
thus advantageously combine a visit 
to the Kinko-zan Potteries at Awata 
on the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which 
are extensive and interesting, 
the visitor being shown the whole 
process of porcelain manufacture. 
Leaving Awata, we pass 1. the 
Lake Biwa Canal, just at the spot 
(Ke-age) where the portage by 
rail takes place, After ascending 
a gentle rise called Hino-oka- 
toge, we next see r. the former 
Execution Ground (Shi-oki-ba), now 
turned into a rice-field, and then 1. 
the Tumulus of Tenji Tenno, a 
Mikado of the 7th century. It is a 
mound overgrown with pine-trees. 
The vill. of Yamashina, which 
stands on the boundary between 
the provinces of Yamashiro and 
Omi, is soon reached, and after it 
the Tillages of Oiwake and Otani y 
where the highway and the rail- 
way run side by side. The gentle 
ascent next climbed is called Osaka 
(properly Au saka, "the Hill of 
Meeting," having nothing whatever 
to do with the city of Osaka). 

On the top formerly stood a barrier, or 
octroi, constantly referred to in Japanese 
poetry, and thus described by Semi-Maru, 
one of the bards of the Hyaku-nin isshu, 
or " Century of Poets," in a stanza which 
every Japanese knows by heart : 

The stranger herefrom distant lands, 
The friend his home-bound friend may 

greet ; 
For on this hill the barrier stands, 
The gate where all must part and meet.* 

*Kore ya kono 

Yuku mo kaeru mo 
Wakarete wa 

Shim mo shiranu mo 

Au saka no seki. 



346 



Route 38. — Lake Biwa. 



Just over the top of the hill 
stands a tiny shrine to Semi-Maru. 
Lake Biwa then comes in view, 
and a minute later we are in 

Otsu, (Inn, Hakkei-kwan, semi- 
Europ.), capital of the province of 
Omi and of the prefecture of Shiga, 
built on the S. shore of the lake. 

On a hill close to the town stands 
the famous Buddhist temple of 

Miidera, No. 14 of the Thirty- 
three Places sacred to Kwannon. 

This temple was founded in A.D. 675 
by the Emperor Tenji, and rebuilt in 
magnificent style in the following cen- 
tury. The present structure, which dates 
only from 1690, is poor. The granite 
obelisk is modern, having been erected 
to the memory of the soldiers from 
this prefecture who fell fighting on the 
loyalist side against the Satsuma rebels. 

The view is charming, especially 
from the obelisk. On the spec- 
tator's extreme 1. is Hiei-zan, then 
Hirayama; next, in faint outline, 
the island of Chikubu-shima with 
the high land of Echizen behind; 
straight ahead are other mountains 
not specially notable, excepting 
pointed Ohomeiji-yama, and Mi- 
kami-yama (Mukade-yama) shaped 
like Fuji in miniature. At the 
spectator's feet lie the lake and 
the town, with the canal running 
straight towards him. 

In the pretty wood below Mii- 
dera, on the N. side, hangs a 
celebrated bell. 

Yoshitsune's retainer, Benkei, is said to 
have stolen this bell and carried, it to the 
top of Hiei-zan, where he amused him- 
self by ringing it all night. The priests 
in despair besought him to return it, 
which he promised to do on condition 
of their making him as much bean-soup 
as he could eat. This they did in an iron 
boiler measuring 5 ft. across. According 
to another legend, the bell was stolen and 
carried off to Hiei-zan in A.D. 1318 by 
the priests of that monastery. The only 
souud they could get out it was some- 
thing that resembled the Japanese for " I 
want to return to Miidera." So, in a rage, 
they throw it down from the top of the 
mountain. These legends seem to have 
been suggested by a desire to account for 
the indentations on the bell. 



Not quite 1J ri N. of Otsu, along 
the W. shore of the lake by a level 
jinrikisha road, is 

Xarasaki, famed all over Japan 
for its monster pine-tree, which is 
one of the most curious trees in 
the world, and perhaps the very 
largest of its species, — not in height, 
but in extent. Its dimensions are 
stated as follows, but some seem 
exaggerated : 

Height, over 90 ft. 

Circumference of trunk, 

over 37 „ 

Length of branches from 

E. toW, 240 „ 

Length of branches from 

N. toS., 288 „ 

Number of branches. ...over 380 

Most of the branches spread 
downwards and outwards fan-like 
towards the ground, being in most 
places so low that one has to crouch 
in order to pass under them, and 
are supported by a whole scaffold- 
ing of wooden legs and stone 
cushions. The holes in the trunk 
are carefully stopped with plaster, 
and the top of the tree has a little 
roof over it to ward off the rain 
from a spot supposed to be deli- 
cate. In front of this tree, for 
which immemorial age has gained 
the reputation of sanctity, stands 
a trumpery little Shinto shrine 
called Karasaki Jinja. 

Those having time to spare, 
should continue on 20 cho further 
along this road to Sakamoto, 
just beyond which, on the slope of 
Hiei-zan, they will find the Shinto 
Temple of Sanno (p. 342). This 
should not be omitted in November 
as the maples are amongst the 
finest in the neighbourhood. 

The best expedition on the oppo- 
site or S.E. side of Otsu is to the 
long bridge of Seta and the temple 
of Ishiyama-dera, — a pleasant jin- 
rikisha ride of J hr. After leaving 
Otsu, one passes Zeze, which is 
practically a suburb, whence the 
road leads over a common called 
Aioazu no Kara. Here the culti- 
vated plain to the r., the avenue 



Ishiyama-dwa. 



347 



of pine-trees lining the road, the 
blue lake to the 1., and the hills 
encircling the horizon, — some bril- 
liantly green with pine-trees, some 
bare and white, some blue in the 
distance, with broad spaces be- 
tween, and the cone of Mukade- 
yama ahead, — this tout ensemble 
forms an ideal picture of tranquil 
and varied loveliness. At the vill. 
of Torigawa, stands the celebrated 

Long* Bridge of Seta, span- 
ning the waters of the lake at the 
picturesque spot where it narrows 
to form the Setagawa, so called 
from the Till, of Seta on the oppo- 
site bank. Properly speaking, the 
bridge is two bridges, there being 
an island in mid-stream, on which 
they meet. The first bridge (Eo- 
bashi) is 215 Japanese ft. long, the 
second (O-hashi) 575 ft. A tiny 
Shinto shrine on the opposite bank 
of the river, to the r., is dedicated 
to the hero Tawara Toda Hidesato, 
who slew the giant centipede from 
which Mukade-yama takes its name. 
(See the story entitled My Lord 
Bag 0' Bice, in the Japanese Fairy 
Tale Series.) 

Keturning to the vill. of Torigawa, 
we follow for a short distance down 
the r. bank of the Setagawa to 

Ishiyama-dera (Inn, *Tsukimi- 
ro). 

This famous monastery, No. 13 of the 
Thirty-three Holy Places, was founded in 
A.D. 749 by the monk Hyoben Sojo, in 
obedience to a command of the Emperor 
Shomu. Having been destroyed by fire 
in 1078, it was rebuilt a century later by 
Yoritomo. The present main temple was 
built by Yodo-Grimi, the widow of Hide- 
yoshi, towards the end of the 16th cen- 
tury. The name Ishi-yama-dpra, lit. " the 
temple of the stony mountain," is derived 
from some large black rocks of unusual 
appearance, which crop up in the middle 
of the grounds, and have been utilised for 
purposes of landscape gardening. 

The temple grounds occupy the 
lower part of a thickly wooded hill 
on the r. bank of the river, and 
extend almost down to the water's 
edge. Passing along an avenue of 
maple-trees and ascending a flight 



of steps, the visitor reaches the 
platform where stand the already 
mentioned black rocks, above which 
again is the main temple, dedicated 
to Kwannon. The building, which 
is partly supported on piles, is 
dingy within,— the altar so dark 
that the image of Kwannon can 
scarcely be distinguished. It is 18 
ft. high, and attributed to Eyoben. 
In its interior is concealed the 
real object of worship, a small 
image 6 inches in height, once 
owned by Prince Shotoku Taishi 
(p. 84). On pillars in front 
of the altar hang praying-wheels 
and a fortune-box (o mikuji-bako), 
the latter being a cylinder con- 
taining little brass chopsticks 
marked with notches, — one, two, 
three, and so on up to twelve. The 
anxious enquirer shakes one of 
these out of a small hole at one end 
of the cylinder, observes the num- 
ber of notches on it, and then reads 
oif, from a board hanging higher 
up, a verse telling what may be 
called his fortune, but is in many 
cases rather a short homily address- 
ed to his characteristic defect. The 
paper labels that will be noticed 
on the pillars are stuck there by 
pilgrims, and contain their name, 
address, and date of pilgrimage, — 
are, in fact, a sort of visiting card. 
The small image near the entrance 
represents Bishamon. A little 
room to the r., known as Genji 
no Ma, is said to have been occupied 
by Murasaki Shikibu (p. 80), during 
the composition of her great ro- 
mance. A small fee to the custodian 
will unlock the door, and enable 
the visitor to inspect the ink-slab 
she used, and a manuscript Buddhist 
sutra said to be in her handwriting. 
The grounds contain several mi- 
nor temples and other buildings. 
Walking up past the pagoda, which 
encloses a fine image of Dainichi 
Nyorai, we reach the belfry. The 
bell is said to have been presented 
to Tawara Toda by the Dragon God 
who inhabits the sea depths, as a 
recompense for slaying the giant 



348 



Route 38. — Lake Biwa. 



centipede mentioned above. The 
flat space close by affords a charm- 
ing view of the lake, the river, the 
long bridge, and the mountains that 
enclose the basin of the lake to the 
E., the foreground being, however, 
somewhat spoilt by rising ground 
all along the 1. bank of the river. 
Ishiyama-dera is famed for the 
beauty of its maple- trees in autumn. 

3. Easteen Shoee of the Lake. 

HlKONE. NAGAHAMA. 

Chikubu-shima. 

All the places described above 
can easily be seen within the limits 
of a single day, — Miidera, Karasaki, 
and Sakamoto being taken in the 
morning, and the Long Bridge with 
Ishiyama-dera in a short afternoon. 
A second day will be required to do 
the chief places on the E. shore of 
the lake, — Hikone and Nagahama, 
with perhaps Chikubu-shima. 
Those staying at the vill. of Ishi- 
yama-dera may thence make a 
pleasant excursion to the temple of 
Tashiki Kwannon, on the summit 
of a hill some way down the course 
of the Setagawa. 

Hikone (Inn, *Baku-raku-en, 
in the castle grounds with beautiful 
garden), situated on the shore of 
the lake, possesses the remains 
of a fine feudal castle, formerly the 
seat of a celebrated Daimyo called 
Ii Kamon-no-kami who favoured 
foreign intercourse, and was as- 
sassinated in 1860 by emissaries 
of the reactionary party. This is 
open to visitors on application at the 
Baku-raku-en, and the view from 
the top is one of panoramic magni- 
ficence. The inn itself was formerly 
the retreat, on abdication, of the 
father of the reigning Daimyo. 

This castle was about to perish in the 
general ruin of such buildings, which ac- 
companied the mania for all things Euro- 
pean and the contempt for their national 
antiquities, whereby the Japanese were 
actuated during the first two decades of 
the Meiji reign. It so chanced, how- 
ever, that the Emperor, on a progress 
through Central Japan, spent a night at 



Hikone, and finding the local officials 
busy pulling down the old castle, com- 
manded them to desist. The lover of the 
picturesque will be grateful to His Majes- 
ty for this gracious act of clemency 
towards a doomed edifice. 

A pleasant day's excursion from 
Hikone in the autumn is to Eigenji, 
a pilgrim resort noted for the tints 
of its maples. It is reached by the 
Omi Railway, which runs S. to 
Kibukawa. 

At Nyu, some 3 J ri from Hikone, 
away in the hills towards Seki-ga- 
hara, is a fish-breeding establish- 
ment (Yogyoba), where salmon and 
salmon-trout are reared according 
to the most approved modern 
methods. The place may also be 
reached from Maibara station, 
whence the distance is 2 ri 13 cho. 

Nagahama (Inn, Izutsu-ya at 
station), also on the lake, is the 
largest town between Otsu and 
Tsuruga, and has a temple of 
Hachiman in spacious grounds, — 
festival on 15th April. Steamers 
cross daily from here to Imazu on 
the W. shore, proceeding thence to 
Otsu. 

This place is noted for its crape called 
hama-chirimen, for tsumugi (a fabric 
woven from spun floss silk), and for 
mosquito netting, most of which is made 
in the surrounding villages — especially 
at Muro — by weavers who receive the 
thread from the dealers in the town, 
and return it to them made up. When 
the crape comes from the weavers, it 
presents the appearance of gauze, and 
has to be boiled by persons called neri- 
ya. Upon drying, it shrinks considerably 
and assumes the wrinkled texture proper 
to crape. There are two qualities, one 
perfectly white, which alone is suitable 
for dying scarlet, and another of a pale 
bluish tint which will take all other 
dyes. 

The island of Chikubu-shima, 
near the N. end of Lake Biwa, can 
be reached from Nagahama by boat, 
— 3 ri. A better plan still is to take 
jinrikisha from Nagahama to the 
vill. of Hayazaki, whence it is only 
a passage of 50 cho. Eemember 
that Lake Biwa, like most lakes, is 
subject to sudden squalls, making 
it always advisable to engage an 



Route 39. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



349 



extra boatman in case of need. It 
is also sometimes possible, by 
previous application, to get one of 
the lake steamers to stop at the 
island. Chikubu-shima which is 
high and thickly-wooded, has a 
temple to Kwannon counted as No. 
30 of the Thirty-three Holy Places. 
There are no inns. 

The return journey by train from 
Nagahama to Otsu calls for no 
special description, the mountains, 
etc., that are seen being those 
already often mentioned. 



KOUTE 39. 



Naba and Neighbourhood. 



1. THE EYOTO-NABA EAILWAY. OBA- 
KU-SAN. UJI. 2. THE CITY OF 
NABA. 3. NAEA-OSAEA BAILWAY. 
H5BYUJI. 

Nara is 1J hrs. by train from 
Kyoto and 2^ hrs. from Kobe via 
Osaka and Tennoji. Several days 
may well be devoted to the sights 
and excursions, or to rest after 
arduous sight-seeing amidst the 
peaceful surroundings of the an- 
cient capital. 

In starting from Kydto, a pleasant 
break may be made on the way 
from Kyoto to Nara by alighting at 
the intermediate station of Kobata, 
| hr., where jinrikishas are taken to 
visit Obaku-san and Uji, the train 
being rejoined at Uji station. 



1. — Kyoto-Naba Eailway. 



° ^ o 


Names 




a BS 






to,*- 1 ^ 


of 


Remarks 


.S «w bd 
ft 


Stations 








C Same station 




KYOTO(Shichijo) 


< as Tokaido 
( Railway. 


3|m. 


Fushimi 




4* 


Monaoyama 




6£ 


Kobata 


| Alight for 0- 
\ baku-san. 




n 


Uji 




hi 


Shinden 




13| 


Nagaike 




17 


Tamarnizu 




18| 


Tanakura 




2l| 


Kizu 




26 


NARA 





Eushimi is frequently mention- 
ed in history. 

The last important event connected 
with it was a sanguinary battle f ought 
here in 1868 between the Imperialists 
and the partisans of the Shogun. On the 
hill called Momoyama stood Hideyoshi's 
palace, one of the grandest ever built in 
Japan, whose spoils in the shape of gold 
screens, fusuma, etc., adorn half the 
temples in Kyoto. 

The late Emperor Meiji Tenno was 
interred here with great pomp in 1912. 

Momoyama is visited by holiday- 
makers in spring, for the peach- 
blossom from which it derives its 
name. 

Alighting at Kobata, one takes 
about 10 min. by jinrikisha to 

Obaku-san, a massive Buddhist 
establishment standing in extensive 
grounds. 

It was founded in 1659 by a Chinese 
priest named Ingen. Most of his suc- 
cessors up to the twenty-first were China- 
men. The priests still wear Chinese 
shoes and a peculiar kind of cap resem- 
bling the French beret. After a period 
of decay, the place underwent renovation 
in the last decade of the 19th century. 

The three principal buildings 
among many are, first, the Tenno-do> 
containing images of Miroku 
Bosatsu and the Shi-Tennd; 
second, the Hondo with a large gilt 
figure of Shaka flanked by Anan 



350 



Route 39. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



and Kasho, and attended by the 
Eighteen Bakan (the tablet over 
the altar, with characters in gold, is 
an autograph of the late Em- 
peror) ; third, the Hattb used as a 
store-house for a complete set of 
wooden blocks (60,000) for printing 
the Chinese version of the Bud- 
dhist canon. Though, from a 
tourist's point of view, there is not 
much to see at Obaku-san, the 
place is impressive from its size 
and its solemn solitude amidst 
ancient trees. 

The next stage of the journey is 
Uji {Inns, Yorozu-ya on the 
Kyoto side of the river, and Kiku- 
ya on the other side), a neat little 
town on the Yodogawa, here called 
Ujigawa, which drains Lake Biwa. 
A pleasant ride of \ hr. takes one 
from Obaku-san to the Uji bridge, 
passing by some large powder 
magazines, and through the tea 
plantations for which this district 
is famous. 

Tea is believed to ha,ve been introduc- 
ed into Japan from China in A.D. 805 by 
the Buddhist abbot Dengyo Daishi. The 
Uji plantations, which date from the 
close of the 12th century, have always 
been considered the best in the empire, 
those near Shizuoka ranking next. 

The tea begins to come to market 
about the 10th May; but the pre- 
paration of the leaf can be seen 
going on busily in the peasants' 
houses for some time later. The 
finest kinds, such as Gyoku-ro 
("Jewelled Dew"), are sold at very 
high prices — as much as 5 yen to 
7£ yen per lb. Those, however, who 
expect to see large firing or selling 
establishments will be disappoint- 
ed. Each family works indepen- 
dently in quite a small way, more 
japonico, and gives to the tea pro- 
duced by it whatever fancy name it 
chooses. The citizens of Kyoto 
visit Uji in the summer to watch 
the fire-flies, and to enjoy the 
prospect up the river. It is worth 
continuing on for 5 min. up the r. 
bank of the stream to the small 



temple of Koshbji, situated at the 
top of a rocky approach. 

Retracing our steps and crossing 
the bridge, we reach Uji's chief 
sight, the ancient Buddhist temple 
of Byodo-in, belonging to the 
Tendai sect, and connected in his- 
tory with the name of the famous 
warrior, Gen-sammi Yorimasa. 

The temple dates from 1052. Here 
Gen-sammi Yorimasa committed suicide 
in A.D. 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge, 
where, with 300 warriors, he withstood 
20,009 men of the Taira host, in order 
to afford time for Prince Mochihito to 
effect his escape. After prodigies of 
valour had been performed by this little 
band, most of whom fell in the defence 
of the bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byo- 
do-in, and while his remaining followers 
kept the enemy at bay, calmly ran 
himself through with his sword. He 
was then seventy-five years of age. Yori- 
masa is famous in romance for having, 
with the aid of his trusty squire I-no- 
Hayata, slain a nue, — a monster composed 
of ape, tiger, and serpent, which tor- 
mented the Emperor Nijo-no-in. A 
monument enclosed by stone fencing in 
the shape of a fan, hence called Ogi-shiba, 
stands on the 1. before entering the 
grounds, indicating the spot where Yori- 
masa breathed his last. 

The large stone monument of 
irregular shape, seen to the 1. after 
entering the grounds, was erected 
in 1887 to hand down to posterity 
the praises of Uji tea. The building 
on the other side of the lotus pond 
is the Hb-o-do, or Phoenix Hall, one 
of the most ancient wooden struct- 
ures in Japan, perhaps the most 
original in shape, and formerly one 
of the most beautiful, though now 
much decayed. It derives its name 
from the circumstance that it is 
intended to represent a phoenix, the 
two-storied central part being the 
body, and the colonnades r. and 1. 
the wings, while the corridor behind 
forms the tail. The ceiling is 
divided into small coffers inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl. Bound the 
top of the walls runs a sort of frieze 
representing the Twenty-five Bo- 
satsu and various female person- 
ages. The doors and the walls r. 
and 1. and behind the altar are 



Temple o f Kasuga. 



351 



covered with ancient Buddhist 
paintings by Tamenari, now almost 
obliterated, of the Nine Regions of 
Kubon Jodo, the Pure Land in the 
West, where the saints dwell ac- 
cording to their degrees of merit. 
The altar or stage was originally 
coyer ed with nashiji gold lacquer, 
inlaid with mother-of-pearl ; and as 
every inch of the walls and columns 
was elaborately decorated with 
paintings, the effect of the whole, 
when new, must have been daz- 
zling. By criminal neglect, this 
gem of art was left open for many 
years to every wind of heaven ; and 
what between the ravages of the 
weather and the ravages of thieves, 
the place has been reduced to its 
present condition. On the roof are 
two phoenixes in bronze, 3 ft. high, 
which serve as weather- cocks. 

The Hondo, or present Main Tem- 
ple, which is much newer, has noth- 
ing that calls for special mention, 
except some relics of Yorimasa, 
and a flag interesting as a very 
early example of the Japanese 
national device of the red sun on a 
white ground (Hi no maru). 

The railway station of Uji is only 
5 min. off, and a run of about 1 hr. 
takes us hence to 

2. — The City of Naka. 

BTara (Inns, *Nara Hotel, Europ. 
style ; Kikusui-ro, semi-Europ.). 

Kara was the capital of Japan during 
seven reigns, from A.D. 700 to 784, when 
the Emperor Kwammu removed the seat 
of government to the adjacent province 
of Yamashiro. This step was dictated by 
the desire to escape from the overshadow- 
ing power of the great Buddhist monas- 
teries. The city is now probably but a 
tenth of its former size. 

The sights of Nara may be best 
done in the following order : — 
Kasuga no Miya. 

This temple, said to have been founded 
in A.D. 767, is dedicated to the ancestor 
of the Fujiwara family, the Shinto god 
Ama-no-Koyane, to his wife, and to the 
gods or mythical heroes Take-mikazuchi 
and Futsu-nushi. The great annual festi- 
val is held on the 17th December. 



The main approach leads up 
through a dehghtful park, where 
tame deer congregate in the expecta- 
tion of being fed. Their horns are 
cut every autumn, to prevent their 
hurting people. Crowds go to wit- 
ness the curious sight. The wild 
wistaria blossoms here in May. 

At the end of a long avenue of 
stone lanterns to the r. of the 
Main Temple, stands the Waka-mi- 
ya, a temple dedicated to a son of 
Ama-no-Koyane. Some of the lan- 
terns which line the approach are 
lighted every night. All are lighted 
on Feb. 2nd. and also on the oc- 
casion of visits from members of 
the Imperial family. In front stand 
an open shed where pilgrims bow 
down, and a long low building 
occupied by the priests. Two 
young girls are in attendance, to 
perform the ancient religious dance 
called kagura, — not specially inter- 
esting. 

The Oku-no-in, lies beyond the 
Waka-miya. 

Retracing our steps for a short 
distance, we enter the grounds of 
the Main Temple, whose bright red 
paint and the countless brass lan- 
terns with which it is hung, con- 
trast strikingly with the reposeful 
green of the magnificent crypto- 
merias all around and between the 
buildings. The gallery, here called 
Sujikai-no-Ma, is attributed to the 
famous sculptor Hidari Jingoro. 
The open shed or oratory, where 
in ancient times the Daimyos came 
to worship, is now used by the 
townsfolk on the evening of Setsu- 
bun (3rd February), for the per- 
formance of the popular ceremony 
of scattering beans to expel evil 
spirits. In the S.W. corner of the 
outer gallery is a small shrine 
dedicated to Saruta-hiko, the god 
who is supposed to be lord of the soil. 

According to the myth, this god made 
an agreement with the god of Kashima to 
lease 3 ft. of earth to him ; but the latter 
cunningly enclosed 3 ri square of ground 
during the night, pretending that the 
"three feet" in the contract referred 
only to the depth of the soil. It is the 



352 



Route 39. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



popular belief that, in consequence of 
this trick of Take-niikazuchi, no tree on 
Kasuga-yama sends its roots more than 
3 ft. below the surface. 

One of the local wonders is a 
single tree-trunk consisting of a 
camellia, a cherry, a wistaria, and 
other trees — seven in all — inextrica- 
bly grown together. To this em- 
blem of constant attachment lovers 
tie wisps of paper containing writ- 
ten vows and prayers. 

The way from the temple of 
Kasuga leads down and over a 
tiny stream to some shops, where 
toy figures of the performers in the 
No dances (Nara ningyb) and arti- 
cles made out of deer's horns are 
sold. Thence for a short way 
through the wood to another red and 
white Shinto temple. 

Tamuke-yama no Hachiman, now 
somewhat decayed, but celebrated 
in Japanese poetry as the scene of 
an ode by Sugawara-no-Michizane, 
included in the classical " Century 
of Poets" (Hyaku-nin Is-shu). It 



Kono tabi wa 
Nusa mo tori-aezu 

Tamuke-yama 
Momiji no nuMJci 
Kami no mani-mani 

which may be roughly rendered as 
follows : 

"This time I bring with me no 
offerings; the gods may take to 
their hearts' content of the damask 
of the maple-leaves on Mount 
Tamuke," — the allusion being to 
the maple-trees which grow in pro- 
fusion on this spot. The brightly 
coloured mural picture in the build- 
ing 1. on entering, represents the 
encounter with an ogre, for which 
see the story of " The Ogre's Arm " 
in the Japanese Fairy Tale Series. 
Leaving Tamuke-yama, observe in 
the grounds 1. the ancient store- 
houses on legs. Passing the temple 
of San-gwatsu-do, now much de- 
cayed, but containing some good 
ancient images, we reach the 

Ni-g'watsu-do, a fine Buddhist 
temple of original aspect, renovat- 



ed in 1898. It seems to cling to 
the side of the hill against which 
it is built out on piles, and is led 
up to by a steep flight of stone 
steps, while a perfect cloud of 
metal lanterns hung all along the 
front lends its quota of peculiarity 
to the general appearance. Parallel 
to the flight of steps on the other 
side, is a gallery called Taimatsu no 
Roka, or " Torch Gallery," because 
torch-light processions wend their 
way up it on the great festival 
night, the 3rd February. It is be- 
lieved to be miraculously preserved 
against danger from fire. There 
is a good view over the town from 
the front, the most noticeable 
features being magnificent trees 
and the roof of the Hall of the 
Daibutsu. 

The Ni-gwatsu-do, which is dedicated 
to Kwannon, was founded in A.D. 752, 
though the present building dates only 
about two centuries back. According to 
the legend, a tiny copper image of Kwan- 
non had been picked up, which possessed 
the miraculous quality of being warm 
like living flesh. Ever since it was 
enshrined in this temple, the custom 
has been to hold a special series of 
services called Dattan no Okonai during 
the first half of the second month of 
the year, whence the name Ni-gwatsu-do 
(Hall of the Second Moon). The image 
is exposed for adoration on the 18th of 
each month. 

Descending the Torch Gallery, 
we reach a well called Wakasa no I, 
contained in a small building which 
is opened only on the 1st February 
of each year. 

Legend says that when the founder 
dedicated the temple, the god of Onyu 
in the province of Wakasa begged leave 
to provide the holy water, whereupon a 
white and a black cormorant flew out 
of the rock and disappeared, while water 
gushed forth from the hole. From that 
time the stream which had flowed past 
the shrine of Onyu dried up, its waters 
having been transferred to the Ni-gwatsu- 
do. Local lore tells of unbelievers having 
become convinced of the truth of the 
miracle by throwing rice-husks into the 
original spring in Wakasa, which reap- 
peared after a due interval in the spring 
here at Nara. 

We next reach the enclosure of 



Todaiji. Daibutsu. 



353 



Todaiji, first passing the famous 
bell which hangs in a substantial 
belfry, 

This great bell was cast in A.D. 732. Its 
measurements are : — height, 13 ft. 6 in.; 
greatest diameter, 9 ft. 1.3 in.; and great- 
est thickness at the edge, 8 A in. (Jap. 
measure). Nearly 36 ton3 of copper and 
1 ton of tin were used in the casting. 

and then proceeding downhill 
through the wood to the building 
which contains the Daibutsu, or 
Gigantic Image of Buddha, larger 
than the one at Kamaknra, though 
far less admirable as a work of art. 

Founded by Shomu Tenno, the temple 
of Todaiji was completed about the year 
750, but on a grander scale than it now 
displays. The actual building containing 
the Daibutsu dates only from the 
beginning of the 18th century, and 
is undergoing extensive repairs. Its 
dimensions are stated as follows : — height, 
156 ft.; length of front, 290 ft.; depth, 170 
ft. The Daibutsu itself dates from A.D. 
749, except the head, which feel off and 
was burnt in successive fires, the present 
one having been made in the latter part 
of the 16th century. The deity repre- 
sented is Roshana, or Birushana, an 
impersonation of light, whom priestly 
ingenuity easily identified with the Shin- 
to Sun-Goddess. 

The Hall enclosing the Daibutsu, 
is being rebuilt and various minor 
images that formerly stood around 
it have been removed to temporary 
abodes. The height of the image 
is given as 53.^- ft., the face being 
16 ft. long and 9} ft, broad. It is 
in a sitting posture, with the legs 
crossed, the right hand uplifted, 
its palm outwards and the tips of 
the fingers about on a level with 
the shoulder, and the left hand 
resting on the knee with the back 
of the fingers towards the spectator. 
The body of the image and all the 
most ancient part of the lotus- 
flowers on which it is seated, are 
apparently formed of plates of 
bronze 10 in. by 12 in., soldered 
together. The modern parts are 
much larger castings, and not 
soldered. The petals of the re- 
versed lotus seem to be single 
castings, and the head, which is 



considerably darker in colour, also 
looks like a single piece. A pecu- 
liar method of construction was 
adopted — namely, that of gradually- 
building up the walls of the mould 
as the lower portion of the casting 
cooled, instead of constructing the 
whole mould first, and then making 
the casting in a single piece. The 
thickness of the casting varies from 
6 inches to 10 inches. The original 
parts of the upturned lotus form- 
ing the image's seat are engraved 
with representations of Buddhist 
gods and of Shumisen (the central 
axis of the universe) surrounded by 
various tiers of heavens. Here and 
there traces of substantial gild- 
ing are visible, which lead to the 
conjecture that the whole image 
was originally gilt. The modern 
head is ugly, owing to its black 
colour, and to its broad nostrils and 
swollen cheeks. 

Behind the Daibutsu-d5, in the 
wood, stands a celebrated store- 
house called Shoso-in, in which, 
during the 8th century, over 3,000 
specimens of all the articles then 
in use at the Imperial Court, includ- 
ing many objects of virtu, were put 
away, thus forming an invaluable 
archaeological museum, which, how- 
ever, is now never shown. For- 
tunately, a few fac-simile specimens 
have been placed in the Ueno 
Museum at Tokyo. 

Captain Brinkley says, in his Japan and 
China, that many of the objects are 
Chinese, some few Indian, a very small 
number Persian, and thus describes 
them : 

" The story these relics tell is that the 
occupants of the Nara palace had their 
rice served in small covered cups of 
stone-ware, with celadon glaze — these 
from Chinese potteries, for as yet the 
manufacture of vitrifiable glazes wan be- 
yond the capacity of Japanese ceramists ; 
— ate fruit from deep dishes of white 
agate ; poured water from golden ewers 
of Persian form, having bird-shaped 
snouts, narrow necks and bands of frond 
diaper ; played the game of go on boards 
of rich lacquer, using discs of white jade 
and red coral for pieces ; burned incense 
in censers of bronze inlaid with gems; 
and kept the incense in small boxes of 
Paullownia wood with gold lacquer deco- 



354 



Route 39. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 






ration — these of Japanese make,— or in 
receptacles of Chinese celadon; wrote 
with camel's hair brushes having bamboo 
handles, and placed them upon rests of 
prettily carved coral ; employed plates of 
nephrite to rub down sticks of Chinese 
ink ; sat upon the cushioned floor to read 
or write, placing the book or paper on a 
low lectern of wood finely grained or 
ornamented with lacquer ; set up flowers 
in slender, long-necked vases of bronze 
with a purple patina ; used for pillow a 
silk-covered bolster stuffed with cotton 
and having designs embroidered in low 
relief ; carried long, straight, two-edged 
swords attached to the girdle by strings 
(not thrust into it, as afterwards became 
the fashion); kept their writing materials 
in boxes of coloured or gold lacquer ; 
saw their faces reflected in mirrors of 
polished metal, having the back repousse 
and chiselled in elaborated designs ; kept 
their mirrors in cases lined with brocaded 
silk; girdled themselves with narrow 
leather belts, ornamented with plaques 
of silver or jade and fastened by means 
of buckles exactly similar to those used 
in Europe or America to-day ; and played 
on flutes made of bamboo wood." 

The visitor leaves the grounds 
of Todaiji and the Daibutsu by 
two large gates, called respec- 
tively Ni-ten-mon and Ni-o-mon. 
The latter has, in exterior niches, 
colossal figures of the Ni-o, which 
are considered admirable specimens 
of that class of sculpture. They 
are attributed to Kwaikei, who 
flourished about A.D. 1095. The 
interior niches contain two remark- 
able lions carved out of Chinese 
stone by a Chinese sculptor of the 
12th century. 

Outside the Ni-o-mon to the 1. 
is an Industrial Bazaar (Bussan 
Ghinretsu-jo). To the r., stands a 
permanent Museum [Hakubutsu- 
Kwan). This well-arranged mu- 
seum affords an excellent means 
for the study of early Japanese 
religious art, especially the glyptic 
art, as all the ancient temples of 
the province have contributed their 
quota of statues in wood and 
bronze, which are of every size, 
some gigantic, many dating from 
the 7th and 8th centuries. Notice, 
too, an octagonal bronze lantern, 
ascribed to a Chinese artist of the 
3th century, a fine specimen of 



open-work panels in that material. 
There is also a valuable collection of 
manuscripts, including the auto- 
graphs of several early Mikados, 
besides numerous kakemonos by the 
best masters. Other branches of 
art are less well represented. 
Nevertheless the mediaeval armour, 
the masks, old lacquer, musical 
instruments, prehistoric pottery, 
and the specimens of porcelain in 
which the beginnings of each 
school can be studied, all possess 
high interest. Note the admirable 
little figures by the potters of the 
Bizen school. 

The way leads behind the Mu- 
seum, with the prefectural offices 
(a two-storied European building) 
on the r., and on the 1. the Buddhist 
temple of 

ILofukuji, conspicuous by its 
two pagodas. This once grand 
establishment, founded in A.D. 710, 
was burnt down in 1717, and little 
remains to attest its ancient splen- 
dour. The following buildings 
may be mentioned: — the Tokondo, 
dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai ; 

The enormous pine-tree with spreading 
branches supported on poles in front of 
the Tokondo, is said to have been planted 
by Kobo Daishi to take the place of 
flowers as a perpetual offering to the god. 

the Kondoy which is full of excellent 
statues, including among others 
two colossal images of Kwannon 
and a pair of Ni-b, attributed to a 
Korean immigrant of the beginning 
of the 7th century,* remarkable for 
their correct anatomy, and regarded 
by connoisseurs as the best exam- 
ples of wood-carving to be found in 
Japan; and the Nan-endb, an 
octagonal building. 

The shape of this last edifice is copied 
from the fabulous Buddhist mountain 
Fudaraku-sen, which was Kwannon's 
favourite retreat. 

Below Kofukuji, lies a pond called 
Sarusawa no Ike. 

*Capt. Brinkley believes them to be 
Japanese work of the school of Unkei in 
the 13th century. 



Temple of Horyuji. 



355 



Local legend tells of a beautiful 
maiden at the Mikado's court, who was 
wooed by all the courtiers, but rejected 
their offers of marriage, because she was 
in love with the Mikado himself. He 
looked graciously on her for awhile ; but 
when he afterwards began to neglect her, 
she went secretly away by night, and 
drowned herself in this pond. 

This ends the popular sights of 
Nara, A little spare time might be 
devoted to walking up Mikasa-yama, 
close behind the temple of Kasuga. 
From the stone at the summit (600 
ft. above the base), a fine view N.W. 
is obtained of the valley of the Kizu- 
gawa, and W., of the plain of Nara 
stretching away to the mountains 
which divide the province of Yamato 
from that of Kawachi. The town 
of Koriyama lies S.W. 

Kasuga-yama forms a pleasant 
afternoon's excursion either on foot 
or in jinrikisha. The road follows 
the Mizugawa; in about f hr. a 
path branches 1. to Wakakusa-yama, 
the bare hill behind the Nig wat su- 
dd. Return by the main road and 
the Uquisu-no-taki cascade. 

Kasagi-yama is a short day's out- 
ing, as follows: by train to Kasagi, 
45 min., whence walk up hill, 20 
min, for the view of the gorge and 
river. Trout can be had in season. 
The return by boat down the river 
to Kamo station occupies about 1 hr. 

For the more distant expeditions 
from Nara, see next Route. 



3. 


— Naea-Osaka Railway. 


§ ^ Names 




$ 5 S§ 


Of 


Remarks 




Stations 






NARA 




3m. 


Koriyama 




n 


Horyuji 


/Change for 




_ 


J Takada. A- 


n 


Oji Jet 


1 light for 




m 


Kashiwabara 


I Shigi-sen. 


181 
202 


Yao 




Kirano 




231 


Tennoji 




25* 


OSAKA (Minato- 
cho) 





Koriyama. The walls of Nara, 
when that city was the capital 
of Japan, extended almost to what 
is now the eastern limit of this 
town. The village of 

Horyuji (Inn, Daikoku-ya, 10 cho 
from station) takes its name from 
a temple, which, though somewhat 
battered by time, will interest the 
serious student. 

Horyuji is the oldest existing Buddhist 
temple in Japan, having been founded by 
Shotoku Taishi and completed in A.D. 
607. Some of its treasures, too, are among 
the earliest art products of the country. 
They include a number of the 8th century 
miniature pagodas, for which see p. 128. 
Owing to its exceptional importance, it 
some years ago attracted the attention 
of art critics and of the Imperial 
Government, which has since contributed 
towards its support. The chief annual 
festival is celebrated on the 22nd day of 
the 2nd moon, old style. 

Priestly guides are in waiting to 
conduct visitors around for a fee of 
1 yen each, and a further similar 
fee to see the pupil of Buddha's eye 
(see next page). Passing through 
the Nam-mon, or S. gate, and the 
two-storied Ni-b-mon, repaired in 
1902-3 out of the original materials, 
we enter an oblong enclosure con- 
taining r. the Kondo, and 1. the five- 
storied pagoda, which stand on a 
base of cement, and are, with the 
Ni-o-mon, the oldest wooden struct- 
ures in Japan. In the background 
is another temple, called Dai-ko-dd. 
These edifices contain a number of 
very ancient statues, several of 
which are attributed to Indian 
sculptors. Frescoes, partly obliter- 
ated by time, are also to be seen, 
the work, it is said, of Don cho, a 
Korean priest. Alike in the two- 
storied gateway and in the other 
buildings, the massive wooden 
pillars are of somewhat unequal 
size, and taper slightly towards the 
top. Observe also that the roofs are 
less slanting than usual, and the 
eaves more overhanging; further- 
more, that the distance between each 
storey of the pagoda is smaller, 



356 



Route 39. — Nara and Neighbourhood. 



making it low for its size and there- 
fore more stable. 

The ground-floor of the Pagoda 
is adorned with some curious tinted 
terra-cotta groups, ascribed to Tori 
Busshi. They represent, on the E. 
side, Monju with other gods; on 
the S. side, Amida with Kwannon 
and Daiseishi; on the W., the 
depositing of Shaka Muni's mortal 
remains; and on the N., his entry 
into Nirvana. The rockery of the 
whole, composed of white stucco, 
represents Shumisen, a fabulous 
mountain where the gods have 
their abode. 

Leaving the pagoda, we see r. the 
belfry, 1. the drum-tower, and then 
visit the Dai-Kbdb, or Great Lecture 
Hall, which is dedicated to Yakushi 
and a host of other deities. We 
then pass out of the oblong en- 
closure to some lesser buildings, 
aud thence up a mound to the 1., 
where stands an octagonal shrine 
known as Mine no Yakushi. The 
image of Yakushi, the god of 
Medicine, is attributed to Gyogi 
Bosatsu, and the twelve smaller 
images representing the Signs of 
the Zodiac, to Tori Busshi. This 
temple is a unique sight, being 
literally hidden under the enormous 
number of short swords placed 
there as offerings by men whose 
prayers for restoration to health 
have proved efficacious, and of 
metal mirrors, combs, and hairpins 
similarly placed there by women. 
Drills, presented by persons who 
have been cured of deafness, are 
piled along a ledge outside, together 
with miscellaneous ex-voto tablets. 

Descending hence, we pass a 
building called Sankyb-in, and 
through the gallery before-men- 
tioned; then the liura, or Store- 
house, which contains so many 
treasures that a long day would be 
needed for their inspection alone. 
Next we visit the Taishi-do, whose 
style of decoration is said to imitate 
that of the Imperial palace of Nara 
(8th century). Outside it is a wood- 
en statue of Shotoku Taishi's black 



horse, with a groom in the costume 
of the 7th century. 

Leaving this set of buildings 
and walking for some distance, we 
come to the Yume-dono, or Hall 
of Dreams, an octagonal edifice, 
dating from the 13th century. It 
stands in the centre of an enclosure 
surrounded by a gallery, and is 
dedicated to the Eleven-faced 
Kwannon (over 600 years old). 
The long building behind is 
divided into two parts, 1. the E-den, 
or Painted Apartment, so named 
because the whole interior is 
covered with brilliant paintings in 
the Tosa style, differing entirely 
from that of the faded frescoes 
mentioned before ; r. the Shari-den, 
or Place of the Belie, so called be- 
cause the pupil of Buddha's left eye 
is here enshrined. It is kept in a 
crystal reliquary, itself shut up in a 
case over which are seven damask 
wrappings, and is exposed to 
worship every day at noon in 
honour of the Sun-God. The Bembb- 
ddy hard by, contains several ancient- 
images and an old coffered ceiling. 
It was constructed by the Emperor 
Shomu (A.D. 724-48). 

The gate by which the temple is 
quitted stands close to the inn. 

[About 1 mile from Horyuji 
stands Tatsuta, which is fa- 
mous in Japanese poetry for the 
maples lining the banks of the 
river that flows past it. Near 
Horyuji, too, is the misasagi, or 
tumulus of Suinin Tenno, a 
prehistoric Mikado who is sup- 
posed to have reigned at the 
beginning of the Christian era. 
It is a large and striking 
mound, gourd- shaped, planted 
with trees, and having a broad 
new moat round it, and at one 
end a small torii forming the 
approach to a neat gravel 
walk.] 

The lover of the antique may 
combine with Horyuji a visit to 
Yakushi-ji, distant f hr. by jin- 



Route 40.— Through Yamato to Koya-san & Wahayama. 357 



rikisha. This ancient temple, also 
known as Kishi-no-Eyo, is now 
much dilapidated ; but it enshrines 
some of the grandest bronze 
images bequeathed to us by early- 
Japanese (or Korean ?) art. Such are 
the gigantic Yakushi, and another 
image of Yakushi with Nikko and 
Gwakko Bosatsu cast about the end 
of the 7th century, and the Sh5- 
Kwannon, said to have been 
made of gold from the fabulous 
Mount Meru.— The neighbouring 
temples of Shodaiji and Saidalji, 
also much decayed owing to long 
neglect, merit the antiquarian's 
attention. The bronze images of 
the Shi-Tennd at Saidaiji, cast in 
A.D. 765, are singled out by Ander- 
son for special praise. From 

Oji, it is 33 cho to Shigi-sen, the 
scene of a famous victory by 
Shotoku Taishi over the rebel 
Mononobe-no-Moriya. The temple 
is dedicated to Bishamon, who is 
supposed to have lent his assistance 
to the victor. It is adorned with 
the crest of centipedes proper to 
that divinity. At 

Kashiwa-bara (not to be 
confounded with the hamlet of 
like name containing the tumulus 
of Jimmu Tenno), is a temple called 
Domyoji, to which yearly pilgrim- 
ages are made. 

The traveller desiring to proceed 
to Kobe, will do best to drive across 
Osaka from Minato-chd to Umeda 
station. 



EOUTE 40. 



Through Yamato to the Monas- 
tery or Koya-san and to 

Y^AKAYAMA. 

MAUSOLEUM OF JIMMU TENNO. 
MIWA. HASE. (THE THIRTY-THREE 
HOLY PLACES OF KWANNON.) TO- 
NOMINE. YOSHINO. KOYA-SAN. 

KOKAWA-DERA. NEGORO-JI. 

This route includes many names 
classic to Japanese ears, and may 
be recommended to lovers of ancient 
religious art, but not to persons 
unfamiliar with the native language 
and history. The wilds of Yamato 
(see Rte. 41) offer an almost virgin 
field to the explorer. Travellers 
from Nara take train to Unebi (the 
station beyond Sakurai) which is 
only a few cho from Jimmu Tenno's 
Mausoleum. The rest of the route, 
partly by road, partly by rail, is as 
follows : — 

Itinerary. 

SAKURAI Hi Cho M. 

Hase 1 23 4 

Back to Sakurai 1 23 4 

Tonomine 1 23 4 

Kami-ichi 3 8 7| 

Yoshino (about).,,... 25 If 

Muda 1 — 2J 

YOSHINO-GUCHI 2 18 6 

Total 12 12 30 



The Nara-Wakayama Railway is 
joined at Y r oshino-guchi. As some 
travellers may prefer to omit Hase, 
Tonomine, etc., and do the whole 
journey from Nara by train, the 
complete schedule is appended. 
Indeed, the Tonomine- Yoshino 
section can be recommended only 
to pedestrians. Alternative shorter 
excursions, including everything 
but Yoshino for the traveller with 
limited time, are as follows : 

I. Train to Unebi ; jinrikisha via 



358 Route 40. — Through Yamato to Koya-san & Wakaytvmii. 



Sakurai to Hase, taking Miwa (by 
a short detour) on the way back. 

IT. Sakurai to Tonomine and 
back by Hase and Miwa. 





Names 




a B s 






$ o § 


of 


Remarks 




Stations 






NABA 




lm. 


Kyobate 




3 


Obitoki 




±* 


Ichinornoto 




6 


Tanbaichi 




9 


Yananaoto 




11 


Miwa 




12 


Sakurai 




15 


Unebi 




16* 


Takada Jet 


For Oji 


w* 


Shinjo 




20J- 
221 


Gose 




Tsubosaka (Wa- 






kigami) 




24| 


Yoshino-guchi 


| Alight for 




(Kuzu) 


( Yoshino 


29 


Kita-uchi 




311 

321 


Gojo 




Futami 




35 


Suda 




37| 


Hashimoto 




431 


Koya-guchi 

Myoji 


( Alight for 
( Koya-san. 


451 


Kaseda 




483 


Nate 




501 


Kokawa 




52| 


Uchida 




55^ 


Iwade 




56j 


Funato 




59 


Hoshiya 




60f 


Tai-no-sei 




631 


WAKAYAMA 




64-i 


WAKAYAMA- ) 
SHI j" 


Alight for Inn. 



The raising of a large mausoleum to 
Jimmu Tenno, the Japanese Romulus, at 
Kashiwa-bara where his capital is believed 
to have stood, may be regarded as the cul- 
minating point of the triumphant labours 
of the archaeological and Shinto party, 
which, beginning early in the 18th cent- 
ury with the annotation of ancient texts 
and the re-adoption of obsolete religious 
usages, ended forty five years ago by re- 
storing the Mikado to his long lost author- 
ity, while such comparatively modern 
innovations as the Shogunate were 
trampled under foot, and the foreign reli- 
gion— Buddhism— if not killed, at least 
deprived of official favour and and emolu- 
ment. On Jimmu Tenno, as the first Mi- 
kado, and on the other early monarchs 
of his line, a portion of the political and 
religious enthusiasm left for their 



descendant reflects itself. Yamato and 
the adjacent provinces are dotted with 
the tumuli — misasagi as they are termed 
— of these long-neglected rulers, which, 
for many centuries, had been treated 
with scant reverence by the peasantry 
who used there to cut fodder for their 
cattle. Burial in dolmens, mostly cover- 
ed with such mounds, seems to have 
been the usual method of sepulture down 
to the 7th century, at any rate in the 
case of distinguished personages, after 
which time cremation and ordinary in- 
terment came into vogue. All the prov- 
inces west of Lake Biwa furnish dolmen 
remains, as does also a limited district in 
the provinces of Xotsuke and Musashi in 
Eastern Japan, where a branch of the Im- 
perial family is known to have settled at 
a very early date. The various Imperial 
tumuli have now been idendified,— not 
perhaps in every case by methods suf- 
ficiently strict to satisfy European criti- 
cism, but at least by painstaking refer- 
ence to the oldest available sources of 
the national history ; and that some great 
personages were interred under the 
tumuli in question, is evident from the 
gold and silver ornaments, the pottery, 
swords, horse trappings, and other relics 
dug out of them during the earlier stages 
of the search. Curiously enough, no in- 
scriptions have anywhere been discover- 
ed, notwithstanding the fact that the 
Chinese ideographs had been introduced 
several centuries before this mode of 
burial fell into desuetude. 

However legitimately destructive Eu- 
ropean criticism may be of the authenti- 
city of Jimmu Tenno's history and of the 
claims of any particular tumulus to the 
name it is now made to bear, one cannot 
but experience a feeling of interest and 
respect in presence of such very ancient 
remains. This fertile plain of Yamato 
was the earliest historic centre of the 
Japanese race, and has certainly for 
thirteen centuries, and probably for a 
much longer period, been the home of a 
unique civilisation. The various Imperi- 
al tumuli may now be recognised by the 
barrier— generally a granite fence — sur- 
rounding a hillock overgrown with trees, 
and by the stone torii standing at the 
entrance to a neat gravel walk. In some 
cases the mound is gourd-shaped, of 
considerable size, and surrounded by a 
moat. Jimmu Tenno's tumulus is the 
most sacred of all, though low and in- 
conspicuous. 

Just before reaching the Tumu- 
lus of Jimmu Tenno, we pass 
1. that of the Emperor Suisei, his 
immediate successor. The wooded 
hill seen ahead is Unebi-yama, 
constantly mentioned by the early 
Japanese poets, Jimmu Tenno's 



Imperial Tumuli. Temple of Miwa. 



359 



tumulus lies at its N.E. foot; the 
hamlet of Kashiwa-bara and the 
Mausoleum are 8 cho to the S.W. 
To the r. rise Nijo-san or Futago- 
yama — so-called from its double 
peak — and the long ridge of 
Katsuragi-yama and Kongo-san. 
To the extreme 1. is Tonomine, the 
highest point of a range on another 
portion of which, further ahead, 
may be seen glistening the white 
walls of the Castle of Takatori. 
The tumulus was first enclosed in 
1863, the outer stone fence dates 
from about 1877, the granite screen 
(tama-gaki) and large wooden torii 
inside the grounds and nearest to 
the actual tumulus, from 1890. 
The torii is of peculiar construc- 
tion, the lower portion being a 
sort of lattice-work. An iron gate 
in front of this torii bars access 
to it, the ground beyond being 
considered sacred ; and as the inner 
bank is lined with trees, scarcely a 
glimpse of the low tumulus can be 
obtained. The chief building op- 
posite the entrance is intended to 
accommodate the Imperial mes- 
senger who comes yearly to worship 
as the representative of the Mikado. 
The traveller re-enters his jinriki- 
sha to reach the 

Mausoleum (Kashiwa-bara Jin- 
ja), erected in 1890, which resem- 
bles a Shinto temple in style. 
What is called the Shinka-den 
stands in front, the Naishi-dokoro 
behind, joined to it by an oratory 
(Norito-ya). 

The Shinka-den is a kind of shed, 72 ft. 
by 40 ft., in which the Mikado celebrates 
the Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai). In the 
Naishi-dokoro, also called Kashiko-doko- 
ro, is preserved a replica of the sacred 
mirror given to his ancestor by the Sun- 
Goddess, the original of which is at her 
temple in Ise. When the Palace was des- 
troyed by fire in A.D. 960, the mirror flew 
out of the building in which it was then 
deposited, and alighted on a cherry-tree, 
where it was found by one of the Naishi, 
a class of females who attended on the 
Mikado. Henceforth these attendants 
always had charge of it, whence the name 
yaiski-dokoro. The alternative name of 
Kashiko-dokoro signifies the " fearful (or 
awe-inspiring) place." Both these build- 



ings formerly stood in the grounds of the 
Imperial Palace at Kyoto. 

In the court are planted an TJkon 
no Tachibana and Sakon no Sakura, 
as in the Kyoto Palace (see p. 317). 
Either side of this block of buildings 
is lined by a gallery. To the 1., out- 
side the enclosure, is the Shinsenjo 
where the offerings are prepared, 
and beside it the temple office. 
In the background are godowns 
for the various sacred treasures, 
and at the entrance a house for the 
Imperial envoy. The materials are 
plain white wood and granite. 

Returning past the tumulus the 
way we came, and then diverging 
to the r., we perceive in front a hill 
much more like a large artificial 
tumulus than any other in the 
vicinity, but which is not account- 
ed such. It is called Tenjin-yama, 
because dedicated to the god Ten- 
jin (see p. 54). At 

Sakurai (Inn, Taba-ichi) there 
is nothing particular to see. 
Notice only the peculiar effect pro- 
duced here and at other neighbour- 
ing towns by the small tiled chim- 
neys, resembling miniature temple 
roofs, stuck on above the actual 
roofs of the houses. Altogether this 
district and the adjoining province 
of Iga is a land of tiles, with fancy 
end-pieces and quaint tiled figures 
of beasts and flowers. 

A spare hour may be spent in 
visiting the ancient Temple of 
Miwa, which stands in an antique 
grove just above Miwa station, 1 m. 
from Sakurai. The temple is 
sacred to the Shinto god Onamuji, 
and the priests who minister at the 
altar claim descent from a son of 
that deity, named Otataneko. 

The following legend concerning this 
personage— a legend which also attempts 
to explain the etymology of the name 
Miwa— is translated literally from the 
Kojiki : _ 

The reason why this person called Ota- 
taneko was known to be the child of a 
god, was that the beauty of a maiden 
named Iku-tama-yori-bime seemed peer- 
less in the world to a divine youth, who 
came suddenly to her in the middle of 



360 Route iO.— lhrough Yamato to Koya-san & Wakayama. 



the night. So, as they loved each other 
and lived in matrimony together, the 
maiden ere long became pregnant. Then 
the father and mother, astonished at 
their daughter being pregnant asked her, 
saying : " Thou art pregnant by thyself. 
How art thou with child without having 
known a man?" She replied, saying 
" I have conceived through a beautiful 
young man, whose name I know not, 
coming here every evening and staying 
with me." Therefore the father and 
mother, wishing to know who the man 
was, commanded their daughter, saying : 
"Sprinkle red earth in front of the couch, 
and pass a skein of hemp through a 
needle, and pierce therewith the skirt of 
his garment." So she did as they had 
bidden ; and on looking in the morning, 
the hemp that had been put in the needle 
went out through the hole of the door- 
hook, and all the hemp that remained 
was only three twists (Jap. mi wa). Then 
forthwith knowing how he had gone out 
by the hook-hole, they went on their 
quest following the thread, which reach- 
ing Mount Miwa, stopped at the shrine 
of the god. So they knew that Otataneko 
was the child of the god who dwelt there ; 
and the place was called by the name of 
Miwa because of the three twists of 
hemp that had remained. 

The road from Sakurai to 
Kase {Inns, Idani-ya and many 
others), anciently and still in litera- 
ture pronounced Hatsuse, leads up 
the r. bank of the Hasegawa. (A 
light railway carries the pilgrims 
from Sakurai to Hase in 15 min., 
but the cars are apt to be over- 
crowded.) The y alley suddenly 
narrows, and wooded hills close the 
road in at the entrance to the little 
town, which owes its existence to 



the sanctity of the great Temple of 
Hase-dera, — No. 8 of the Thirty- 
three Holy Places. 

(The " Thirty-three Places"— 
Saikoku San-jii-san Sho — are thirty- 
three shrines sacred to Kwannon, 
the Goddess of Mercy, in the prov- 
inces near Kyoto. They are all 
carefully numbered, the first being 
Pudaraku-ji at Nachi in Kishu, and 
the last Tanigumi-dera in Mino.* 

Legend traces the institution of these 
" Thirty-three Places" to Tokudo Shonin, 
a famous Buddhist abbot of the 8th cen- 
tury. This holy man, having suddenly 
died, was received by two emissaries of 
Emma-0 (see p. 45), the God or Begent of 
the Under-world, and conducted to the 
latter's iron castle that glitters with gold 
and silver and with pearls and every 
kind of precious stone. The god, him- 
self resplendent as a jewel and beaming 
with smiles, received the dead abbot with 
distinguished attention, and forthwith 
revealed to him the existence of Three- 
and-thirty Places specially cared for by 
the Goddess of Mercy, Saviour of the 
World (Guse Kwan-ze-on), who had thus 
divided herself into many bodies, wish- 
ing to succour each human being in the 
way best suited to his particular spiritual 
antecedents. But alas ! none yet knew of 
the existence of these shrines ; so men 
went on doing evil rather than good, and 
kept falling into hell as plentifully as 
the raindrops fall in a furious summer 
shower, whereas a single pilgrimage to 
the Three-and-thirty Places would cause 
the pilgrim to radiate light from the soles 
of his feet, and give him strength to crush 
all the one hundred and thirty-six hells 
into fragments. " Should peradventure 
anyone that has accomplished the pil- 
grimage fall into hell," said Emma-O, 



*The complete list is as follows :— 

1. Fudaraku-ji, at Nachi in Kishu. 

2. Kimii-dera, near Wakayama in 
Kishu. 

3. Kokawa-dera, in Kishu. 

4. Sefuku-ji, in Izumi, 

- 6. Fujii-dera, in Kawachi. 

6. Tsubosaka-dera, in Yamato. 

7. Oka-dera, in Yamato. 

8. Hase-dera, in Yamato. 

9. Nan-endo, at Nara in Yamato. 

10. Mimuroto-dera, at Uji in Yama- 
shiro. 

11. Kami Daigo-dera, at Uji in Yama- 
shiro. _ 

12. Iwama-dera, in Omi._ 

13. Ishiyama-dera, near Otsu in Omi. 

14. Miidera at Otsu in Omi. 

15. Ima-Gumano, at Kyoto in Yama- 
shiro. 



16. Kiyomizu-dera, at Kyoto. 

17. Bokuhara-dera, at Kyoto. 

18. Bokkaku-do, at Kyoto. 

19. Kodo, at Kyoto. 

20. Yoshimine.dera, at Kyoto. 

21. Anoji, in Tamba. 

22. Sojiji, in Settsu. 

23. Katsuo-dera, in Settsu. 

24. Nakaya-dera, near Kobe in Settsu. 

25. Shin Kiyomizu-dera, in Harima. 

26. Hokkeji, in Harima. 

27. Shosha-san, in Harima. 

28. Nare-ai-ji, in Tango. 

29. Matsunoo-dera, in Wakasa. 

30. Chikubu-shima, island in Lake Biwa 
in Omi. _ 

31. Chomeiji, in Omi. 

32. Kwannonji, in Omi. 

33. Tanigumi-dera, near Tarui in Mino 



Temple of Hase. 



361 



" I myself will exchange with him, and 
suffer in his stead, as a teller of false 
tales. Here, therefore, is a list of the 
Three-and -thirty Places. Carry it back 
to the world of the living, and do the 
needful in the matter. It was for this 
purpose that I sent for thee hither." 
Tokudo thanked the Eegent of the Under- 
world for his kindness, but remarked that 
mortals had grown sceptical in these latter 
days, and would ask for a sign to accredit 
his embassage. Thereupon Emma-0 gave 
him his own jewelled seal, and the abbot 
was led back by the same two attendants 
as before to the sinful world. 

Now what had happened there was, 
that though he had lain as dead for three 
days and three nights, his body had not 
grown cold. His disciples therefore had 
refrained from burying him, thinking 
that he might possibly be restored to 
life. When he did awake from the trance, 
there, grasped in his right hand, was the 
seal which the Kegent of the Under-world 
had given him. Then he told his dis- 
ciples all that had happened, and he and 
they started off on a round of the Three- 
and-thirty Places, as the first pilgrims to 
those holy shrines ; and as the oldest 
temple in Japan dedicated to the Merciful 
Goddess was that of Kakayama-dera in 
Settsu, which the Prince Shotoku Taishi 
had built, they visited that first. There 
also did he leave the jewelled seal in a 
stone casket. 

So far the legend. It would seem that 
the pilgrimage fell into disuse after the 
time of the Abbot Tokudo, and was only 
brought into permanent prominence 
more than two centuries later by the 
Emperor Kwazan, in obedience to a 
vision. This monarch, while himself still 
but a mere stripling, lost his tenderly 
loved consort, and having abdicated in 
A.D. 986, became a monk, and made the 
pilgrimage round the Three-and-thirty 
Holy Places in the order which has ever 
since remained unaltered. In imitation 
of the original Thirty-three Holy Places, 
thirty-three other places have been esta- 
blished in Eastern Japan, and also in the 
district of Chichibu. 

Each of the Thirty-three Places has its 
pious legend, and also a special hymn (go 
eika) which the pilgrims chant several 
hundred times. Though consisting of 
but thirty-one syllables, as is the general 
rule in Japanese poetical compositions, 
most of these hymns require consider- 
able expansion to render them intelligi- 
ble in English, owing to the play upon 
words and the obscure conciseness affect- 
ed by the composers. The go eika for 
Hase runs as follows : — 

Iku tabi mo 

Maim kokoro wa 
Hatmse-dera 

Yama mo chikai mo 
Fukaki tani-gawa 



which is interpreted to mean, " Howevei 
oft I make the pilgrimage to Hase's 
temple, my heart is as greatly touched as 
if each visit were the first; for Kwan- 
non's mercy is higher than the moun- 
tains, and deeper than the torrent-riven 
valley.") 

Founded early in the 8th century 
and last rebuilt in A.D. 1650, Hase- 
dera (locally called Kwannon-do) is 
one of the most striking temples in 
Japan. It is situated high up on 
the flank of a hill above the Till., 
and stands half upon the rock, half 
upon a lofty platform built out 
from the rock, like Kiyomizu-dera 
at Kyoto. The main gate, restored 
in 1894, is at the top of a prelimi- 
nary flight of steps, whence three 
other flights in zigzags, roofed over 
with keyaki wood so as to form 
a gallery, lead to the top of all. 
On either side of this gallery are 
beds of peonies, beautiful to behold 
early in May, when they are in full 
bloom. The innumerable slips of 
paper plastering the small shrine to 
the r., at the top of the gallery, are 
pilgrims' cards. 

The front part of the main 
building consists of an ex-voto hall 
60 ft. long, in front of which is a 
platform built out on piles and 
commanding a view of the whole 
valley. A stone-paved corridor 
lined with lanterns runs between 
this interesting ex-voto hall and the 
holy of holies, where is enshrined 
the enormous and far-famed gilt 
image of Kwannon, whose form 
may be obscurely described by the 
dim light of lanterns. On payment 
of a trifling fee, permission can be 
obtained to enter this sanctum and 
stand at her very feet. The en- 
trance is at the back, where, on 
either side of the door, will be 
remarked two little wheels used 
as charms whereby to foretell the 
future. The inquisitive pilgrim 
ties a wisp of paper to the wheel, 
which he then turns rapidly. If 
the paper wisp is at the bottom 
when the wheel stops, any desire 
he may have formed will come 



362 Route 40. — Through Yamaio to Jfoya-san & Wakayamdi 



true. The bamboo tallies also to 
be noticed here, are used by pil- 
grims who make " a thousand 
rounds " of the building. Just 
inside the door is a life-size image 
of Kwannon, standing in front of a 
large fresco of Shaka and the Five- 
and-twenty Bosatsu of Paradise. 
On its 1. hangs a gigantic man- 
dara t 18 ft. broad by 30 ft. high, 
representing that half of the uni- 
verse called by the Buddhists Taizo- 
kai. Both these paintings are 
attributed to Kobo Daishi, as is 
also a large kakemono of the god 
Dainichi Nyorai hanging opposite 
to the mandara. Thus we pass 
round to the great image in front, 
which is made of camphor-wood 
gilt, and towers to a height of 26^- 
ft. On the 1. side of the sanctum, 
before emerging, is seen another 
mandara representing the half of 
the universe called Kongb-kai. The 
two mandara together contain 
figures of three hundred Buddhas. 
The Oku-no-in of this temple, in- 
stead of being higher up the same 
hill according to custom, stands on 
a separate hill 4 cho distant. It 
scarcely deserves a visit. 

[From Hase a road, about 25 ri, 
practicable for jinrikisha, leads 
via Haibara, Nabari, Ao, and 
Kokken to the shrines of Ise ; 
see p. 293. It is frequented by 
pilgrims, who combine the 
Yamato-meguri, or Tour of the 
Holy Places of Yamato, with 
a visit to the temple of the 
Sun-Goddess.] 

From Sakurai to Tdnomine there 
is a jinrikisha road; but as it 
soon becomes steep and stony in 
parts, good walkers will prefer to 
go on foot. It is possible to take 
jinrikishas all the way to Yoshino ; 
but from Tonomine to Fuyuno and 
most of the Byuzai-toge must be 
walked. The whole way is pic- 
turesque. At Shimomura, \ hr. out 
of Sakurai, a fine granite torii 
marks the outer limit of the sacred 



mountain, the actual Tonomine 
being the trifurcated summit seen 
ahead to the r. Many hamlets are 
passed through. At that of Kura- 
hashi, but a little off the road, is the 
Tumulus of Sujin Tenno, an 
emperor of the legendary era (said 
to have died B.C. 30, at the age of 
120). 

At the upper end of a village 
called Yainai-cho, a covered bridge 
leads into the grounds of the justly 
famed temple of 

Tonomine, the way being along 
an avenue of monumental cryp- 
tomerias. The magnificence of the 
timber, the purling of the brook 
below, the rich green all around 
and the deep shade combine to 
form a scene at once impressive 
and delightful. One must alight, 
if riding, at the Ichi no Mon, or 
First Gate. 

This name does not indicate that there 
are many successive gates to be passed 
through. There is but one on the Yainai- 
cho side. The Ni no Mon, or Second 
Gate, is on the other side of the moun- 
tain. 

The stone walls beyond it, serv- 
ing to keep some terraces in place, 
are all that remain of a large num- 
ber of priests' dwellings and minor 
temple buildings pulled down 
during the last reign. 

The temple of Tonomine, one of the 
most perfect specimens of Byobu Shinto 
architecture, was raised in honour of a 
celebrated nobleman and statesman of 
the 7th century, named Kamatari, who 
had two sons, Fuhito and J6-e. The latter 
it was who built the temple, bringing 
back with him from China, whither he 
had been sent to study, all the materials 
for the thirteen-storied pagoda, with the 
exception of the top storey which proved 
to be more than his junk could hold. In 
those days, however, such mishaps were 
easily remedied, and the thirteenth storey 
flew after him across the sea on a cloud, 
and so completed the edifice. According 
to tradition, Kamatari and his friends 
retired to this mountain to plan the as- 
sassination of Soga-no-Iruka, a nobleman 
who had ingratiated himself with the 
Empress Kogyoku, and formed the bold 
design of placing himself on the throne. 
Hence the name of Damn no Mine, or 
'* conference peak" the word Damu being 
afterwards corrupted to To. 



Temple of Tonomine. 



863 



On arriving at the great red torii, 
we turn to the r. and ascend several 
steep nights of steps, to the r. of 
which is a fine grove of maples, 
whose tints (about the 10th Novem- 
ber) are far-famed. Again turning 
to the r. at the top of the steps, we 
find ourselves at the Honsha, or 
main shrine, connected with an 
oratory in the somewhat unusual 
form of a gallery, which wears the 
aspect of an exhibition, as the god's 
sacred car, and other temple " pro- 
perties," masks, drums, arrows, and 
old swords of which the temple pos- 
sesses four thousand, are there laid 
out in rows. Common foreign 
tables and chairs in each wing 
strike a dissonant note. All the 
temple buildings are red and white, 
the main shrine being furthermore 
decorated with gold and green 
arabesques and geometrical designs, 
besides beautiful carvings of birds 
and elaborate metal fastenings. 

Bound it is a paling (tama-gaki), 
with storks and tortoises inside 
groups of flowers. Green blinds 
hide the doorways, to each of which 
three polished mirrors are attached. 
The side shrines are dedicated to 
Kamatari's two sons. Dragons in 
sepia on a gold ground adorn the 
lower cross-beams of the portico, 
and a beautiful executed pair of 
bronze lanterns bearing date 1755 
stand in front of the shrine. The 
transverse panel in the verandah 
on its E. side has a white phoenix, 
while on the corresponding panel 
on the W. side is a peacock. The 
roof consists of thick shingling. 
The other principal object of in- 
terest is the small thirteen- storied, 
or more correctly speaking thirteen- 
roofed, pagoda. The grounds con- 
tain numerous other buildings, 
many of which are now left empty, 
as the Shinto cult has no use for 
them. One, seen on the way down 
and showing traces of elaborate 
decoration, is the burial-place of 
Kamatari's wife. The 16th April 
and 17th November are the two 
great festival days at Tonomine. 



Close to the exit from the temple 
enclosure is a good inn, called Kdyd- 
kwan. A short but steep ascent 
leads up hence to the Ni no Mon, 
or Second Gate, where the temple 
grounds are quitted. From here it 
is J hr. climb to Fuyuno, a hamlet 
consisting of but tour houses. It 
affords a fine view of the plain 
stretching towards Nara. Beginning 
at the r., the mountains seen are : — 
Tempo-zan, Futago-yama, Katsu- 
ragi-yama — the highest peak, 2,814 
ft., — Kongo-san; next, but in the 
much further distance, Koya-san, 
and to its 1., that is to the south, the 
sea of mountains covering southern 
Yamato. Close at hand is a tu- 
mulus called Uba-ga-mori, marked 
by a clump of trees and the usual 
railing. Half the horizon — the N. 
and E. side — is shut out by the hilly 
nature of the foreground. 

From Fuyuno to the top of the 
Hyuzai-toge is a distance of under 
1 ri, mostly through a delightful 
wood of cryptomerias and chamse- 
cyparis-trees ; but some of the hill- 
sides are laid bare from time to 
time. 

The Japanese plan is not to thin out 
timber gradually, but to shave whole 
hillsides bare and then let thern. alone for 
niany years, while others are similarly 
treated in rotation. This method saves 
trouble, as all the timber is simply rolled 
down to the bottom of the valley without 
encountering any obstacle, — if possible, 
to a stream where it is floated oft", either 
in separate trunks or where the breadth 
of the stream permits, in the form of 
rafts. 

The view from the Eyuzai-toge, 
though pretty, is less extensive 
than that from Fuyuno. The way 
onward leads steadily downhill and 
is in parts steep. Several hamlets 
are passed through before entering 

Kami-iclii (Inn, Tatami-ya), a 
fair-sized town on the r. bank of 
the Yoshino-gawa. The prospect 
up the river is pretty, and those for 
whom the classical poetry of Japan 
has interest may like to gaze on 
Imoyama, the conspicuous wooded 
hill about £ m. distant. The name 



364 Route 40. — Through Yamaio to Koya-san & Wakayama. 



means "Mount Lady-love," and 
has been the theme of many odes. 

"We now cross the singularly 
limpid river to the town on the 
other side, called Iigai, the passage 
being effected by bridge in winter, 
by ferry in summer. 

A similar arrangement obtains at other 
places along the course of this river, 
the reason being that the summer floods 
often pour down with such resistless force 
as to sweep all before them. Of course 
the bridges erected for use during the dry 
season are not costly, and the planks are 
stowed away to do service again the 
following year. 

The temple buildings at Iigai, 
standing on a slight elevation and 
having a parapet in front, belong 
to the Monto sect of Buddhists. 
Proceeding a short way down the 
stream and then turning south, we 
enter the lower hills. Cherry-trees 
line the path, and cover the hillside 
for a considerable distance up to 
the entrance of the small town of 

Yoshino, which is built along 
the top of a narrow spur, and 
consists almost entirely of inns 
(*Sako-ya and *Tatsumi-ya best) 
and of shops for the sale of articles 
attractive to pilgrims. During the 
week or ten days in mid- April when 
the cherry-trees are in blossom, the 
little village has all the bustle of a 
camp, and rooms should be en- 
gaged beforehand. 

These tre^s have for centuries been 
famous throughout Japan. There is no 
sight in the land comparable to them for 
beauty, when covered with delicate pink 
blossom. They are grouped in three 
masses of a thousand trees each, called 
respectively Shimo-no-Sem-bon, Naka-no- 
Sem-bon, and Oku-no-Sembon, — that is, 
" Lower," " Middle," and " Furthest 
Thousand," which come into bloom suc- 
cessively. 

Half-way up the town stands 
a huge bronze torii, built of broad 
rings 4 ft. in diameter, and indi- 
cating the approach to the large 
temple of Zb-b-db. 

Founded by Gyogi Bosatsu early in the 
8th century,_as an offshoot of the temple 
raised on Omine by his master En-no- 



Shokaku, this temple has undergone 
many vicissitudes. The present build- 
ings date, for the most part, from 1591. 

A large red two-storied gate and 
two flights of steps lead up into 
the court fronting the great temple 
hall. The pillars supporting this 
lofty building are huge trunks, 
lopped of their branches and rough- 
ly trimmed. Their gradually taper- 
ing form recalls the way in which 
the stone columns of Doric temples 
derived their shape from the primi- 
tive trunks which they replaced. 
One of the pillars is a gigantic 
azalea, at least 30 inches in diame- 
ter, brought from Mount Omine, 
where those shrubs frequently at- 
tain to an enormous size ; the rest 
are cryptomerias. Ex-voto pictures 
of proportionate dimensions and 
great age adorn the walls of the 
portico. The huge image of Z5-6 
Gongen carved by Gyogi Bosatsu 
and standing behind the altar, is 
26 ft. high and of terrific aspect, 
and is flanked by statues scarcely 
less colossal (22 ft.) of Kwannon 
and Miroku. All three lift their r. 
foot to trample on the clouds, and 
the 1. to trample on the four great 
oceans. Their stern expression 
shows minds bent on repressing 
the demons of which the universe 
is full. 

A little further on is Yoshimizu 
Jinja, a small temple in which 
Yoshitsune (p. 86) and Benkei 
(p. 71) are said to have spent three 
years, and which later, in the 14th 
century, served as the abode of 
the fugitive monarch Go-Daigo 
(p. 72). Every tree, every stone 
in the enclosure has a name recall- 
ing some act of one or other of 
these three personages, — the tree to 
which Yoshitsune made fast his 
horse, the rock into which Benkei 
drove two iron nails to prove his 
strength after seven days of absti- 
nence, etc. The room which Go- 
Daigo used to occupy is still shown, 
as are various works of art. — On 
the hill opposite, 7J chb distant, 
stands the temple of Nyoirin-ji, 



From Yoshino to Kdya-san. 



365 



where Go-Daigo lies buried, and 
where also many relies of him may 
be inspected, together with other 
treaures. 

There are several other temples, 
but they offer little interest. Yo- 
shino is noted for its kuzu, a kind 
of starch, which is sold both in the 
pure state and also as a sweetmeat 
in the shape of cherry-blossoms, a 
real blossom of last season's, bloom- 
ing being enclosed in each dain- 
tily done up box. The starch, when 
properly made, is very palatable, 
and almost indistinguishable from 
American corn-starch. 

On leaving Yoshino for Kdya-san, 

[An alternative for pedestrians is 
to go from Yoshino to Dorogawa 
{Inn, Ki-no-kuni-ya), one short 
day, whence a day and a half 
by the pilgrim route leading 
along the lovely valley of the 
Ten-no-kawa, with its limpid 
stream, its picturesque rocks, 
and its pinnacled and grandly 
timbered hills, — 12 ri. Fair ac- 
commodation at Hirose, Saka- 
moto (at the foot of the Tengu- 
mi-toge), and other villages.] 

it is pleasant after the rough paths 
traversed to bowl along the finely 
graded road, for 35 min. down to 
the Yoshino-gawa, which is crossed 
from a village called Saso on the 
1. bank to one named Muda {Inn, 
Hara-ya) on the r. About half-way 
the modern Shinto temple of 
Yoshino-miya, dedicated to Go- 
Daigo Tenno, is passed, and a 
succession of delightful views meets 
the eye throughout. The extremely 
sharp peak seen to the r. is the 
Takami-tbge, on the borders of the 
province of Ise. It is interesting 
to watch the rafts descending the 
river. Though very long, they 
glide easily among the shoals, 
under the management of skilful 
steersmen, because built in sections 
having a partly independent 
motion, like the cars of a railway 
train. 



Yosh.ino-g'uclii station {Inn, 
Seikwa-rO). At 

Gojo {Inn, Fujii-kwan), a fair- 
sized town, the line enters the val- 
ley of the Kiigawa. This district 
abounds in orange groves. 

Hoya-guchi {Imis, Katsuragi- 
ya, Shinonome-kwan, and many 
others) stands at the entrance of 
the side valley leading up to Kdya- 
san, the raison d'etre of the station 
being the accommodation of 
pilgrims to that shrine. Bands 
of pilgrims may be found taking 
a meal there at any time of day 
in spring, the fare provided being 
vegetarian when they are on their 
way up as contrite sinners, but 
generously supplemented with fish 
and eggs — the Japanese substitutes 
for meat — when they are returning 
downwards, pardoned and at peace 
with all the gods. The traveller 
will probably be told at Koya-guchi 
where the bulk of his baggage 
should be deposited, that the 
distance to Koya-san is only 3 ri ; 
but the ri in this mountain district 
consists of 50 chb, which brings the 
distance up to 4 ri 6 chb of standard 
measurement, or 10\ miles English. 
Of this 50 chb, or one third of the 
distance, as far as the hamlet of 
Shide, can be done in jinrikisha. 
The rest must be walked or done 
in kago, as it is a succession of 
steep ups and downs, the former 
predominating; but the eye is so 
charmed at every turn that fatigue 
is forgotten. Several villages are 
passed through, of which the largest 
is Kamiya {Inn, Hana-ya). 

The first part of the way, after cros- 
ing the Kii-gawa, lies along the r. 
bank of the tributary Yoshino-gawa, 
flowing far below in a rock-strewn 
ravine. There is little or no shade 
here, and the palmettos on the 
hillsides bear witness to the ex- 
ceptional warmth of the climate of 
this district. For the latter part, 
the road leads up amidst magni- 
ficent timber, chiefly conifers; 
most of the finest specimens are 
chamaBcyparis. Strangely enough, 



366 Route 40. — Tlirough Yamato to Koya-san & Wakayama. 



but few examples are seen of the 
species to which Kdya-san has 
given its name, — the Kdya-moM 
(Sciadopytis verticillata). The 
timber from this superb forest, 
which now belongs no more to the 
priests but to the central govern- 
ment, is brought down by sledge 
and tramway from mountain re- 
cesses situated above the monaste- 
ry, conveyed to Wakayama, the 
capital of the province, and thence 
shipped in junks to Tokyo. A 
bridge little worthy of its high- 
sounding name, Gokuraku-bashi, 
that is, the Bridge of Paradise, 
marks the beginning of 

Kdya-san proper (2,710 ft.), and 
of the last and steepest portion of 
the climb. Up to this point rest- 
houses dot the way and the forest 
grows thicker and thicker, till at 
last we reach a plain black gate 
forming the back entrance (Fudo- 
zaka-guchi) to the temple grounds. 
The exceptionally fine bronze image 
of Jizo just outside dates from the 
year 1745, — the gift of a female 
devotee. The smaller but hand- 
some bronze Kwannon inside the 
gate to the 1. dates from 1852. From 
here it is but a few yards to the 
Sankei-nin Torishirabe-sho, or Office 
for the Examination of Pilgrims, 
where the traveller will be asked 
whence he comes and at which 
temple he desires to lodge, and will 
then be furnished gratis with a 
guide to conduct him thither ; or, if 
he have no preference and no letter 
of introduction, some lodging will 
be assigned to him. This question 
of the lodging is important, as 
Koya-san has no inns. The temples 
do duty for them, — or rather the 
priests' residences included in the 
Japanese term for a Buddhist temple 
(tera). Many are apt to be too full 
of pilgrims of the lower class to 
afford pleasant quarters. The most 
aristocratic are Sh5j6 Shin-in, pos- 
sessing fine suites of rooms, Benjd 
Ko-in, Kong5 Sammai-in, and Joki- 
in. The people at E.6ya-guchi will 
probably endeavour to persuade the 



traveller to patronise some inferior 
house, with which they are in 
league. Of course the priestly hosts 
provide no foreign food, neither is 
fish or flesh of any sort tolerated in 
the village, though liquor is permit- 
ted. The visitor, therefore, who 
cannot make up his mind to vege- 
tarianism for a single day had 
better see the sights, and go on 
to one. of the villages below. In 
any case he should remember that 
his hosts are monks, not innkeepers, 
and must refrain from ordering 
them about. There is no fixed 
charge for board and lodging ; but 
it behoves the visitor to give 
at least as much as he would 
pay in a first-class inn. The 
service of the rooms is all done by 
acolytes, no woman being admitted 
to any such employment. Indeed, 
it is only since the revolution 
that women have been allowed to 
make the pilgrimage at all. The 
pilgrims are wakened before dawn, 
and the traveller may, if he likes, 
assist at matins, which service is 
performed in a hall lined with 
thousands of funeral tablets, pray- 
ers being offered up for the souls of 
those whose names are inscribed 
thereon. 

Kongo-buji — for that is the proper name 
of the monastery, Koya-san being only 
the name of the mountain on which it 
stands— is one of the oldest religious 
foundations in Japan. It dates from A.D. 
816, having been then founded by the 
great saint, Kobo Daishi, to whom the 
Emperor Saga made a grant of land for 
the purpose. As Kobo Daishi was on his 
way up the mountain, he met Kariba 
Myojin, the Shinto god of the locality, 
who, being addicted to the chase, was ac- 
companied by two dogs. This god pro- 
mised his protection to the monastery, 
and in return for this the Shinto temple 
of Nyu, dedicated to the mountain-god's 
mother, was afterwards built in one of* 
the neighbouring valleys. This legend is 
the explanation given of the toleration of 
dogs on Koya-san, while no other animals 
are permitted to enter the precincts. 
Other prohibitions existed in former 
times against musical instruments, the 
planting of bamboos or trees that could 
be turned to profit, archery and football, 
gambling and checkers, bamboo brooms, 
and three-pronged hay-forl^s, As late as 



Cemetery of Koya-san. 



367 



1906 no women might inhabit the village, 
and all the shops were therefore exclu- 
sively in men's hands.— The principal 
mediaeval benefactors of the monastery- 
were the Emperor Shirakawa and the 
Taiko Hideyoshi. The latter 's nephew 
and adopted son Hidetsugu committed 
harakiri here. Koya-san has experienced 
no striking reverses, though, like all 
Buddhist monasteries, it has suffered to 
some extent from the recent disestablish- 
ment of Buddhism. Its greatest enemy 
has been fire. The conflagrations of 1843 
and 1888 were the most disastrous during 
the past century. The great pagoda 
perished on the former occasion, and has 
never been restored. On the latter, when 
the fire lasted for two days, large num- 
bers of the priests' dwellings were swept 
away, 1909 and 1910 were also marked by 
destructive fires. A treasure of which the 
monastery is justly proud is a collection 
of eight thousand scrolls of the Buddhist 
scriptures, written in letters of gold and 
elaborately ornamented with silver de- 
signs. These scrolls are valued at over 
half a million yen. 

The sights of Koya-san take half 
a day to inspect. The first and 
most impressive is an enormous 
Cemetery, through which leads an 
avenue of cryptomerias 18 cho long ; 
or rather, the cemetery is a kind of 
irregular avenue laid along a mag- 
nificent cryptomeria forest. Not 
that most of the bodies are actually 
interred here. In many cases the 
so-called tomb is merely a monu- 
ment raised to the memory of the 
dead believer, who, through this 
nominal burial by the side of Kobo 
Daishi, obtains the spiritual privi- 
lege of re-birth into the Tosotsu 
Heaven, or into Jodo, " the Pure 
Land of Perfect Bliss." In other 
cases, after the corpse has been 
cremated, the Adam's-apple and 
some of the teeth are sent to Koya- 
san, these remains being consigned 
to a common pit called Kotsu-db or, 
the Hall of Bones, in the case of 
persons who cannot go to the 
expense of a separate tomb. At all 
events, their funeral tablets are sent 
to the monastery to be prayed over 
daily. As one walks along the 
avenue, a special cicerone, who has 
all the names by heart, points out 
the most important graves. After 
crossing the Ichi no Hashi, or First 



Bridge over the tiny Odogawa, the 
monuments of the Daimyos of Sen- 
dai (the largest), Uwajima, Kaga, and 
Satsuma are among those first pass- 
ed. Such noblemen's monuments 
may be distinguished from those of 
commoners by their peculiar pagoda 
shape (Jap. sotoba or gorin, see p. 42). 
A little off the road to the r. are the 
graves of the celebrated heroes Atsu- 
mori and Kumagai Naozane, and 
then those of the Daimyos of Hizen, 
Matsumae, and Choshu ; then — but 
we can only pick out a few names 
from among thousands — the early 
warrior Tada-no-Manju (this is the 
oldest monument in the cemetery), 
the 16th century chieftain Takeda 
Shingen, the Hachisuka family, 
Ii-Kamon-no-Kami, the Daimyds of 
Tosa, the traitor Akechi Mitsuhide 
whose monument has been riven 
from top to bottom by a thunderbolt 
as a warning to faithless servants, 
and so on ad infinitum. In the case 
of great families, many subsidiary 
monuments surround the chief one 
in the little enclosure, and before 
this often stands a torn, the stone 
for which, as for all the monuments, 
is brought from a place in the prov- 
ince of Bizen called Mileage, a word 
that has come to be the Japanese 
name for " granite." The monu- 
ment of the Ichikawa Danjuro fami- 
ly of actors, just before reaching the 
Naka no Hashi, or Middle Bridge, is 
distinguished by a thin pillar. That 
with a praying- wheel in front is 
dedicated to Jizo, and is called the 
Ase-kaki Jizo, because believed to be 
covered every morning with the per- 
spiration which that god's sufferings 
in hell for the relief of the human 
race bring out on his body. The 
Daimyd of Geishu have the second 
largest monument in the cemetery, 
those of Imagawa the largest of all, 
28 ft. high. Next we come to that of 
an Imperial Princess, to those of the 
celebrated poet Basho, of the saint 
Enk5 Daishi, of Asano Takumi-no- 
Kami (the unhappy lord of the Forty- 
seven Bonins), etc., etc. We next 
arrive at a shrine containing one 



368 Route 40. — Through Yamato to Koya-san & Wakayama. 



thousand gilt images of Amida, with 
another beside it having a statue 
of Kobd Daishi at the age of forty- 
two, carved by himself; and after 
that another temple, with pictures 
(mandara) by the same saint, of the 
two halves of the Buddhist universe. 
The next feature in the walk is 
afforded by some bronze images of 
Jizo, Fudo, and Dainichi, placed 
behind a trough of water. Believers 
sprinkle this water over the images, 
in order to benefit the souls of their 
own ancestors. Immediately be- 
yond is a small bridge called 
Mumyb no Hashi, or the Nameless 
Bridge, a corruption of Mi-myo no 
Hashi, or Bridge of the August 
Mausoleum. It is believed that no 
one can cross this bridge who, for 
moral reasons, is unacceptable to 
Kobo Daishi. 

According to tradition, Hideyoshi made 
a pilgrimage hither after he had risen 
to the highest position in the empire, 
and, accompanied by the chief priest 
alone, came at night as far as the bridge, 
crossed it, and turned back again without 
going as far as the tomb, thus satisfying 
himself that the slaughter he had been 
compelled to make of his enemies in 
order to seize the supreme power and 
restore peace to the nation, was approved 
by Kobo Daishi, and that he might now 
pay his formal visit on the morrow in 
full state, accompanied by all the 
princes, without fear of being put to 
shame before them. 

The monument r., just beyond 
the bridge, to those who fell in the 
war with Russia, was erected in 
1910. 

A separate enclosure to the 1. 
contains the unpretentious monu- 
ments of several Mikados. We 
next reach the Mandoro, or Hall of 
Ten Thousand Lamps, but first look 
in at the octagonal Kotsu-do, or Hall 
of Bones already mentioned, and 
peer through the gate of the Go 
Byo, or Tomb of Kobo Daishi, 
which is never opened save on the 
21st day of the 3rd moon, old style, 
when new vestments are provided 
for the dead saint. We also per- 
ceive two small Shint5 Shrines just 
showing through the thick trees. 



At the foot of the steps 1. leading 
to the Mand5ro is a small bronze 
figure of Kobd Daishi, remarkable 
for the expresssion of profound yet 
sentient contemplation. The Man- 
dord is a wooden building 100 ft. 
long, and somewhat less than half 
that in depth, with closed grated 
shutters. As far as the eye can 
penetrate the darkness of the in- 
terior, countless brass lamps may 
be seen ranged in rows. Of these 
only about one hundred are kept 
lighted, the present reduced state 
of the monastery's exchequer not 
permitting expenditure on a more 
lavish scale. 

No offering can be more acceptable in 
the eyes of Buddhistic piety than burn- 
ing lamps, which typify the refulgent 
wisdom of the gods Dainichi and Amida. 
A story is told which recalls the Bible 
story of the widow's mite : — On some 
great occasion a rich man presented ten 
thousand lamps, while a poor woman, 
who had nothing, cut off her long tresses 
to make up money enough to present a 
single lamp. Nevertheless her offering 
was the more acceptable of the two ; and 
when a gust of wind arose, the rich man's 
ten thousand lamps were all blown out, 
while the poor woman's single lamp 
shone on with increased brilliancy. Ac- 
cordingly the largest lamp in the hall is 
called the Ilinja no Itto, or Poor Woman's 
Single Lamp. 

So far the Cemetery. The travel- 
ler now returns the way he came, 
and, wending through the village, 
will see the rest of the sights on 
his way to the gate leading in the 
direction of Wakayama. (The order 
may be reversed according to the 
house in which one is lodged, the 
Shdjd Shin-in, etc., being at one 
end of the village nearest the 
Cemetery, and the J6ki-in at the 
other.) 

First we visit the Kongo-buji, 
or abbot's residence (a small fee is 
demanded), an unusually handsome 
specimen of Japanese domestic 
architecture, adorned with gold 
sliding-screens by Kan5 Tan-yu, 
Sesshu, Tanzan, and other classical 
artists. An old-fashioned arrange- 
ment to be seen here, as in other 



Monastery of Koya-aan. 



369 



residences of the monks, is what is 
called the irori no ma, or "hearth 
room," which is an apartment 
having a large square chimney like 
a pillar, and a small altar on one 
side. The monks sit round this 
heated pillar in winter to recite the 
sutras. The room where Hidetsugu 
committed harakiri after he had 
fallen into disgrace with his father, 
has been restored exactly in the 
style of his period (end of 16th 
century). One room contains a col- 
lection of various objects -laid out 
in cases: swords, lacquer boxes, 
scrolls, Buddhist furniture, etc. 

Y\ r e next proceed to the Shichi-do 
Goran (see p. 41), or temples 
proper, and passing by several 
which are uninteresting, stop to 
examine the 

Kondo, or Golden Hall. Burnt 
in 1843, but restored in 1852, this 
grand edifice fully deserves its 
name, for the interior is ablaze with 
gold and glorious colouring. Nor is 
it only beautiful. The keyaki wood, 
of which the huge beams and col- 
umns consist, proclaims its solidity ; 
and even the magnificent carvings 
adorning the exterior are of the 
same material, some of the slabs 
being 9 ft. long by 4 ft. vide. The 
plan of the building is three squares, 
one within the other. The outer- 
most of these squares is the un- 
coloured carved shell just mention- 
ed; that next to it is the gejin or 
nave, while the innermost is the 
naijin or chancel ; and this it is that 
the artist has so splendidly decorat- 
ed with gold, with paintings of 
angels and Buddhist deities, and 
with coloured carvings of birds. 
Images of the deities Kong5 Satta, 
Fudo, Fugen, Kon-gd-6, Gozanze 
My 6-6, and Kokuzo Bosatsu stand 
on a raised dais, whose sides are 
filled in with the peony and lion in 
gilt open-work, while the ceiling 
above them glows with rich paint- 
ings of dragons with a phoenix in 
their midst. The shrine guarded 
by these images contains one of the 
god Yakushi carved by Kobo Daishi 



himself. The mandara hanging to 
the pillars represent, as usual, the 
two halves of the Buddhist universe. 
Another interesting scroll is in- 
scribed with words meaning, " To 
the souls of all who died fighting in 
the Russo-Japanese war," the same 
homage being paid to foes as to 
friends. On leaving, notice the 
paintings of the Sixteen Rakan, 
which are about 9 ft. sq. and exe- 
cuted in an extremely florid style. 
The holy men are represented in 
four groups. 

In an adjacent building some 
gigantic gilt images of the Go-chi 
Nyorai, or Five Gods of Wisdom, 
formerly in the Pagoda, have now 
their temporary abode. The Saito, 
or Western Pagoda, is a two-storied 
building of a curiously complicated 
style of construction. Among other 
minor buildings, may be mention- 
ed two small Shinto shrines dedi- 
cated to the aboriginal Japanese 
gods who ruled the mountain before 
Kobo Daishi's advent, — brilliantly 
painted with red ochre, and form- 
ing a striking contrast to the ad- 
jacent grey unpainted Buddhist 
shrines ; also the Kyddo, or Revolv- 
ing Library, elegantly constructed 
in the shape of a two-storied pagoda, 
and the Mi-ei-do, containing a cele- 
brated portrait of Kobo Daishi 
painted by his disciple Prince Shin- 
nyo, the eyes of which were dotted 
in by the saint himself. 

Leaving the enclosure that holds 
all these buildings, we turn r., and 
see ahead the summit of Jin-ga- 
mine, 50 cho distant from the far 
end of the great Cemetery, and 
affording — at least so the monks 
declare — a view over portions of no 
less than thirty provinces. To the 
1. is the Theological Seminary 
(Gakurin), which is not usually 
visited. This institution includes 
a small university and a middle 
school. Since the year 1895, 
" general Buddhism " (whatever 
that may be) has, by government 
order, here replaced the exclusive 
teaching of the doctrines of the 



370 Route 40. — Through Yamato to Koya-sande Wakayama. 



Shingon sect, and modern sciences 
have been added to the curriculum. 
Some of the class rooms are fitted 
up in European fashion with 
benches and blackboards, while 
others retain the old Japanese style, 
— mats, a sort of dais for the 
lecturer, and a kakemono of Kobo 
Daishi at one end of the room. 
Each bedroom is shared by two or 
three students. Before meals, a 
long Buddhist grace is intoned. 

The inspection of the Seminary 
concluded, we retrace our steps a 
little, and soon reach what is called 
the front gate (omote-mon) of the 
monastery grounds, a handsome 
structure decorated with carvings 
by Hidari Jingord, which leads in 
the direction of Wakayama; for 
this was anciently the chief ap- 
proach to the sanctuary, as being 
that by which K6b5 Daishi himself 
came up. Yarious details of his 
pilgrimage are commemorated in 
monuments still preserved on that 
side of the mountain. This road, 
(5 i ri to Kokawa), is now compara- 
tively little used. 

Kokawa {Inn, *Kana-ya). Five 
cho from this station stands Ko- 
kawa-dera,—^o. 3 of the Thirty- 
three Holy Places, — an ancient and 
celebrated shrine, founded in AJD. 
770; but the present edifices date 
only from the 17th century. The 
principal gateway contains fine 
statues of the Ni-6, colossal in size 
and excellently preserved. A little 
further on is a building, called 
JDonan San no do, curiously 
decorated with open-work wood- 
carvings nailed on to the panels and 
representing incidents in the history 
of an image of Kwannon shaped like 
a young boy, which is declared by 
tradition to have emerged mira- 
culously from the pond close by. 
Several handsome bronzes and a 
stone with the impression of Bud- 
dha's feet next attract our attention. 
Passing through the second gate- 
way with its images of the Shi- 
Tenno, we enter a picturesque 
garden containing some magnifi- 



cent old camphor-trees ; one, in 
particular, would take seven men to 
encircle it with out-stretched arms. 
The cherry-blossoms, too, are very 
fine. The Hondo is a plain build- 
ing about 102 ft. square, whose 
outer gallery is all hung with 
modern inscribed tablets. The 
images of the Eight-and-twenty 
Followers of Kwannon, r. and 1. 
of the main altar, whose shrine 
is never opened, are excellent 
ancient works of art. On a terrace 
at the back stand two brightly 
decorated shrines dedicated to the 
Shinto gods of Nyu and Nyaku-ichi, 
the aboriginal guardian deities of 
the place. The temple is rich in 
miscellaneous treasures and manu- 
scripts, to be allowed to inspect 
which, however, requires a special 
introduction. An unusually large 
Gyogi-yaki jar (see p. 73) is the only 
curiosity shown to all- comers. 

The traveller, who now emerges 
from the mountains into the civili- 
sation of the plain, will be struck 
with the variety of quaint and 
beautiful tiles at the corners of the 
roofs of the houses. Some are shap- 
ed like demons' heads, some like 
shells, some like flowers, etc. The 
whole way into Wakayama from 
Kokawa continues down the valley of 
the Kiigawa, with its screen of hills 
on either side. The river is crossed at 

Iwade. Thirty cho from this 
station by jinrikisha stand the 
stately remains of the monastery of 
Negoro-ji, a branch of Koya-san 
dedicated to Fudo, the monks of 
which waged successful war against 
Nobunaga, but succumbed to Hide- 
yoshi in 1585. It must have been 
one of the most extensive religious 
establishments in Japan, and a 
perfect example of the Shichi-do 
Garan. The various structures ex- 
tended over two hillsides, and the 
architecture of what survives has a 
tranquil and impressive aspect. 
The immense park-like grounds are 
full of lovely cherry-trees and pine- 
trees, the former a brilliant sight in 
April, 



Route 41. — The Mountains of Yamato. 



371 



Wakayarna-shi (p. 311.) 
[The traveller who desires to go 
direct to Kyoto or Kobe without 
stopping over at Osaka, can 
book himself and luggage 
through to those places.] 



KOUTE 41. 



The Mountains of Yamato. 



To the south of the town of Yoshino 
lies an extensive tract of wild mountain- 
ous country, which should interest both 
the climber and the botanist. The peaks 
vary from about 5,000 ft. to 6,000 ft. in 
height. The names of the principal ones 
are Online, Misen, Bukkyo-ga-talie, Shichi- 
men-zan, Shaka-ga-take, and Dainichi- 
dake. The narrow valleys intervening 
between their spurs support a scanty but 
industrious population, who, by ter- 
racing even the steepest hillsides, con- 
trive to raise sufficient barley for their 
subsistence. Yet a wide tract remains 
uninhabited, and much of it is even 
an traversed. Boar and the goat-faced 
antelope abound, besides a few deer and 
bear, and an occasional wolf. The boars 
are so numerous, that throughout this 
region all cultivated plots have to be 
protected from their inroads by strong 
stockades called shishi-gaki, and it is not 
unusual to see a whole valley thus fenced 
in. The summits are almost without 
exception clothed at high elevations with 
forests consisting chiefly of conifer, 
beech, and oak both evergreen and 
deciduous, magnolia-trees, etc.; but the 
lower slopes are not infrequently planted 
with cryptomerias and chainaeeyparis. 
There are also a few small copper-mines ; 
but timber-cutting and timber-dressing 
form the chief employment of the peas- 
antry. 

These mountains may be ap- 
proached from Yoshino as a base, 
the distance thence to the top of 
Omine (6,150 ft.) being locally 
estimated at 6 ri. The expedition 
there and back will occupy the 
whole of a long summer's day. The 
fatigue connected with it arises 
from the fact of its not being a 



single climb, but a succession of 
ups and downs over Kotenjo, Otenjo, 
etc. 

A better plan is to go from Ybshi- 
no-guchi station to Dorogawa, 7 ri, 
of which 5 ri as far as the hamlet of 
Kaicado by jinrikisha. (But pedes- 
trians may take a shorter and 
more picturesque way over three 
passes.) Dorogawa, being a resort 
of pilgrims bound for Koya-san, 
possesses several comfortable inns, 
Ki-no-kuni-ya best. The nominal 
3 ri hence to the top of Omine will 
take a sturdy walker 3 hours. A 
place called Dorotsuji, where the 
path from Yoshino falls in 1., has a 
large tea-house. A short way on, 
we reach the foot of steep rocks' 
where several hundred feet have to 
be climbed by the aid of rough lad- 
ders. The pilgrims choose this spot 
for changing their straw sandals 
and washing their hands, to avoid 
provoking the wrath of the god by 
trespassing on his domain in an 
impure state. Above this are more 
huts, where the night might be 
spent. The summit is sacred to 
the Buddhist saint who first trod it, 
En-no-Shokaku ; and there, in front 
of a temple erected in his honour, 
may be seen several fine bronze 
images, which represent him equip- 
ped for a pilgrimage, with one- 
toothed clogs on his feet, and 
accompanied by his faithful demons 
Zenki and Gold. The temple itself 
is a massive building with an 
interior elaborately adorned. Two 
praying-wheels will be noticed on 
the pillars of the main door. The 
magnificent view is uninterrupted 
in all directions, even Fuji's cone 
being visible, though not less than 
180 miles distant. 

Leaving the summit of Omine, 
half-an-hour's descent takes us to 
the ruined huts of Ozisa, where 
there is a spring of good water. 
No more can be obtained till reach- 
ing the top of Misen (6,350 ft). 
The way— there is no path— is ex- 
ceedingly rough, leading through 
dense forest and occasionally over 



372 



Route 42. — Through Kumano to Ise. 



steep rocks that entail awkward 
scrambles. The worst of these is 
up a ridge known as Kuni-mi-dake. 
In a valley, reached 5^ hrs. after 
leaving Ozasa, stands a battered 
bronze image of En-no-Shokaku, 
whence to the top of Misen is a 
distance of 30 cho. For this final 
bit there is a steep zigzag path. 
Just below the summit stands a 
sleeping-hut, open from May to 
September, but repulsively filthy. 
Proceeding, we descend a little, 
and then mount again to the top of 
Bukkyo-ga-take (6,400 ft.), the 
culminating point of this range. 
A short way down, a path leading 
down to the Ten-no-kawa (see p. 365) 
falls in r., and further we pass r. a 
track leading to Sliichimen-zan. 
Alternations of better and worse 
going, including an awkward slope 
of loose sandstone, bring one to a 
little platform of rock jutting out 
from the mountain side and known 
as En-no-hana. It commands a 
splendid view of the mountains 
hitherto traversed, together with 
N.W. Kong5-san, Koya-san, and 
Rokko-san near Kobe. Hence to 
the top of Sh.aka-ga-take (6,150 
ft.) is a rough and arduous scramble, 
rewarded by a view S. of mountains 
as far as the eye can reach. Sepa- 
rated from Shaka-ga-take by a 
narrow gully, rises the peak called 
Bainichi-dake, whose summit is 
so steep that chains have been fixed 
to render the ascent feasible. On 
the way down the forest is much 
thinner, and there are glorious 
views. Some 10 cho down, a re- 
markable rock is passed, known as 
Gokuraku-no-Mon, or the Gate of 
Paradise, to crawl through a small 
hole in which and return round the 
other side is considered a meritori- 
ous act. Skirting the base of Dai- 
nichi-dake, we strike a dry water- 
course, which is followed all the 
way to Zenki (passable accommoda- 
tion). 

From Zenki it is a very long 
day's walk via the villages of Ike- 
hara an4 Ura-mukai to guzukawa 



(poor accommodation); but the 
scenery as far as the first-named 
place is lovely, the road following 
along the upper reaches of the 
Kitayama-gawa (see p. 377). From 
Ura-mukai a good road leads down 
to Kinomoto on the coast. From 
Kuzugawa it is 2 J ri to Tado and 
Doro Hat cho; while, if preferred, 
Hongu can be reached in half a 
day's walk over Tamaki-san (see p. 
377). 



ROUTE 42. 



Theough Kumano to Ise. 

1. west coast of kishu. temples 
of hongu and shingu. bapids 
of the eumano-gawa and kita- 
yama-gawa. dobo hatcho. falls 
of nachi. 2 east coast of 

KISHU. 

This rough, but delightfully pic- 
turesque, route is recommended 
only to those whom considerable 
experience has inured to Japanese 
country ways. It might well be 
combined with Routes 40 and 
34. The finest part of it is from 
Tanabe onwards, the interior of 
Kishu and the E. coast being on 
the whole more picturesque than 
the W. coast. The best time for 
the trip is spring or late autumn, 
as the climate of Kishu is ex- 
ceptionally mild, owing chiefly to 
the mountains of Yamato which 
act as a screen to ward on 2 northern 
blasts. 

Kumano is practically another name for 
the province of Kii or Kishu, the W. part 
being Kucfii-Gumano, i. e. "front Kuma- 
no," and the E. part Oku-Gumano, or " far 
Kumano." The two together include Ku- 
ju-hu lira, i. e. " ninety-nine stretches of 
shore." But the name Kumano is used 
with peculiar reference to the Three Holy 
Places {Mi-Gumano or Kumano SqM-zqn) of 



Jt'rom Wakdyaina to KatsUfa* 



m 



that province, namely, Hongu, Shingu, 
and Nachi, the origin of which carries us 
back past history proper into the legend- 
ary age. Hongu, lit, "the original tem- 
ple," (or "palace") is said to have been 
founded in the reign_of Sujin Tenno (1st 
century B.C.) ; Shingu, or " the new tem- 
ple," in the reign of Eeiko Tenno (A.D. 
71 — 130), the former being some way up 
the Kumano-gawa, the latter at the 
mouth of the same river. Y>"hether fear 
of the destructive floods for which this 
river is notorious, had anything to do 
with the location of the shrines in these 
particular spots — spots both of them 
specially likely to suffer, and therefore 
standing in unusual need of supernatural 
protection — is a matter for surmise. Ee 
this as it may, the aboriginal Shinto tute- 
lary deities were early adopted by the 
Buddhists as avatars of Indian gods, un- 
der the title of Kumano Gongen (cf. p. 
16) ; and all through the Middle Ages the 
threefold shrines of these Gongen were 
among the most popular in Japan, and 
among the most representative of the 
Byobu Shinto style. The Emperor Go- 
Shirakawa is said to have made no less 
than thirty-four pilgrimages to them, or 
at least to Hongu. About the beginning 
of the 19th century, when the influence of 
the Pure Shinto school had begun to make 
itself strongly felt, many changes were 
effected both in the buildings themselves 
and in the lists of gods therein worship- 
ped. Hongu and Shingu are now al- 
together in Shinto hands. Nachi, besides 
its Shinto shrine, possesses a famous 
Buddhist one. — A curious and inexplica- 
ble circumstance connected with the 
Kumano shrines is the special reverence 
manifested towards them by the people 
of the extreme north of Japan, who sup- 
ply a very large percentage of the pil- 
grims, and are locally nicknamed Kuanto- 
bei, that is, •' Eastern bumpkins." 



Itinerary. 

WAKAYAMA to :— JPu 

Kimii-dera 1 

Kuroe 

Shiotsu 2 

Yllnoshima 2 

Yuasa_. 2 

GOBO 5 

Inami 3 

Minabe 3 

TANABE 2 

Misu 2 

Kurisu-gawa 2 

Chikatsuyu 3 

Nonaka 

Ose 2 

YUNOMINE 2 



Cho 


M. 


25 


±\ 


32 


n 


— 


5 


32 


7 
1 


35 


n 


11 


13 


11 


8 


20 


8f 


7 


5* 


3 


5 


18 


6 


9 


8 


29 


2 


31 


7 


18 


6 



HONGU 25 If 

Miai(byboat)\ ..4 8 10£ 

Tado „ *'.. 4 18- 11 
Back to „ \% . . 

Miai „ I gi.. 4 18 11 

SHINGU / .. 5 — 12£ 

MwazaM 1 25 4$- 

Hama-no-niiya 2 12 5 J 

NACHI.. 1 32 ±\ 

Back to Hama-no- 

miya 1 32 4| 

KATSUBA 23 1} 

Total 65 26 160.* 



Thence by steamer to Einomoto, 
Nigishima, Owase, and Nagashima, 
whence overland to Yamada, as 
shown later on in the text. Some 
of the distances are approximate, 
though every possible care has been 
taken to make them correct. A 
constant cause of change and per- 
plexity is introduced by the con- 
struction of new roads (shindb), not 
infrequently followed by the disuse 
of the same owing to floods or to 
paucity of traffic. The pedestrian 
will in any case gain by adherence 
to the old road, whenever a choice 
offers. 

We leave TTakayama by what, as 
a tribute to popular piety, is still 
called the Kumano Kaido. Jinriki- 
shas are practicable — with an occa- 
sional walk over a hill — all the 
way to Tanabe and Misu. Passing 
below Kimii-dera (see p. 311), and 
Kuroe noted for its cheap lacquered 
trays and bowls, we skirt a lovely 
shore to 

Shiotsu, a village on the first 
of those little landlocked bays — 
secluded paradises — that gem the 
coast of the provinces of Kishu and 
Shima. The sea, the dainty little 
sandy beach, and the view back 
over Wakayama and the valley of 
the Kiikawa and across to Awaji 
and Awa in Shikoku, combine to 
form a delicious picture. 

[Pedestrians can save time and 
distance, and command still 
finer views, by diverging 1. over 



3?4 



Route 42. — through Kumano to 2se. 



the Fujishiro-saka before reach- 
ing Shiotsu, between the ham- 
lets of Hikata and Shimizu.~\ 

Minoshima (Inn by Kawa Hata- 
nosuke) is a cleanly town on the 
river Arida. Travellers should stay 
here rather than go on to Yuasa, 
which, though larger, is unattrac- 
tive. Beyond Minoshima, we cross 
the shallow Arida-gawa near its 
mouth, and follow up its 1. bank 
for some miles along an embank- 
ment, between rows of vegetable 
wax- trees (haze), the characteristic 
tree of all this country-side. We 
are now in the district of Arida, 
notable as the greatest orange- 
producing centre in Japan ; and as 
we proceed, we find all the lower 
slopes of the wide sheltered valleys 
covered with orange-groves. 

The cultivation of the orange, first in- 
troduced into this district towards the 
close of the 16th century from Yatsushiro 
in Kyushu, succeeded so admirably that, 
before fifty years had elapsed, not Osaka 
and Kyoto only, but Yedo looked to Arida 
for their choicest supplies. Forty varie- 
ties of the orange tribe are enumerated 
in Japan, the best-known being the mikan 
proper, or mandarin orange (of which the 
unshu variety is the most prized), the kofi, 
the kunenibo (a thick-skinned variety), the 
tachibana, the daidai or Seville orange, 
and the diminutive kinkan or cumquat. 
Most Japanese oranges are produced on 
large umbrageous bushes, only the daidai 
growing on a real tree. The orange is 
usually grafted on a citron or on a kara- 
tachi (Citrus trifoliata) stock. It is the 
finest fruit produced in Japan, and it 
figures largely in the Japanese New Year 
decorations. A lucky speculation in 
oranges was the foundation of the fortune 
of the eccentric 18th century millionaire, 
Kinokuni-ya Bunzaemon. 

Yuasa (Inn, Hiro-kyii) is noted 
for its manufacture of soy. From 
here to Gobo there is a choice of 
roads. The new road, practicable 
for jinrikishas throughout, passes 
through Yura, 4 ri 14 cho, whence 
the distance is 3 ri 6 cho more, or 7 
ri 20 cho (18J m.) in all; but it is 
rarely taken, the old 5 ri 11 cho 
road, given in our Itinerary, being 
so much shorter, and all of it, too, 
practicable for jinrikishas except 



the Shishigase-toge, a steep hill 32 
cho long. Spare coolies can be 
hired at the bottom of this hill to 
help to push the empty jinrikishas 
up, and to shoulder the luggage. 
The two roads diverge from each 
other 26 cho beyond Yuasa. 

[Before he reaches Gobd, a detour 
of about 1 ri will take the 
traveller interested in ancient 
Japanese lore to the Temple of 
Dojoji, a building part of which 
dates from the 8th century. 

Its name has become a household 
word throughout the land, on ac- 
count of the legend of the hapless 
loves of the monk Anchin and the 
maiden Kiyohime. Forbidden by 
his vows as a priest from making 
good his vows as a lover, he fled to 
this place, and hid beneath the 
great temple bell. She, transformed 
by the power of rage and disappoint- 
ment into a huge dragon, pursued 
him, and, lashing the bell with her 
dragon tail, made it so fiery hot that 
the poor monk was scorched to death 
inside. This was in the year 928. 
The great bell of Dojoji forms a 
favourite subject of art; and both 
the classical No theatre and the or- 
dinary Shibai stage have pieces 
founded on the legend, decked out 
with many fanciful additions.] 

G 6 bo ( Inn, Kishi-riki ) . The road 
follows the coast from here, gene- 
rally on a cliff overlooking the sea, 
and crosses several hills. The 
finest view is that from the top of 
the hill passed soon after leaving 

Minabe (Inn, Mori-tsune), where 
one catches the first glimpse of the 
charming bay of Tanabe, with its 
Megane-iwa, — a rock resembling a 
pair of spectacles, with holes for 
the glasses, — its semi-sunken reefs, 
and the long promontories of Seto- 
zaki and Kanayama-zaki. The as- 
pect of all this coast is sub-tropical, 
chiefly owing to the quantities 
of palmettos and sotetsu. Large 
quantities of potatoes are also 
grown. 

The traveller will be struck all over 
this Kumano route with the absence of 
horses. Bulls and cows are used instead 
for agricultural purposes, the Japanese 



West Coast of Rishu. 



3?5 



bull being so much milder a beast than 
his European counter-part that the use 
of oxen has not suggested itself. The 
cows are free for hard labour, because 
their milk does not form a staple article 
of Japanese diet. 

Tanabe (Inn, Kinjo-kwan near 
landing-place) is much frequented 
by pilgrims to the Three Shrines of 
Kumano and to the Thirty-three 
Places of Kwannon. The temple 
of Sodoji, in the neighbourhood, 
possesses a number of jvorks by 
the celebrated painter Okyo and 
his pupil Bosetsu. A pleasant 2 
hrs. excursion from Tanabe by boat 
is across the bay to the hot springs 
of Yuzakl (Inn, Sakai-ya), situated 
on the slope of a steep hill with a 
fine view. 

Tanabe is the end of the first 
division of this route, as we here 
leave the coast, and turn inland to 
cross mountain ranges and to shoot 
the rapids of rivers. Vv r e also here, 
or at Misu 2 ri further on, bid fare- 
well for some time to jinrikishas, 
unless the road to Kurisu-gawa 
should happen to be in exceptional- 
ly good repair. In any case, the old 
road is about half the distance of the 
new, — 2 J ri from Misu to Kurisu- 
gawa, instead of 4 ri 27 did. The 
walk is steep but pretty, and near 
the summit, which is called Imori- 
toge, a fine panorama opens out of 
numerous ranges, with Tanabe Bay 
and the sea beyond. The scar on 
the side of Takao-zan dates from the 
great floods of 1889. 

Always liable to these visitations, Japan 
seems to have drawn them down on 
herself with increased violence by a 
sudden zeal for the spread of cultivation 
in remote mountain districts, and by 
consequent partial deforestation. The 
valley of the Totsugawa suffered worst 
of all, over 2,000 persons having been 
washed away. Many of the survivors 
emigrated to Yezo. 

Kurisa-gawa (Inn, Momiya) 
lies in a valley on the bank of a 
stream. Leaving it, we climb over 
the Jfijo-toge and Osakdrtbge, — a 
maze of thickly wooded mountains 



the whole way, peak alternating 
with round shoulder, — to 

Chikatsuyu (Inn, Yamaguchi- 
ya), similarly situated in a valley, 
— that of the Heki-gawa, — and 
thence on to 

Nonaka (Inn, Matsu-ya), which 
stands high, a great cleft dividing 
it from still loftier hills that rise 
abruptly opposite. There are some 
monumental cryptomerias at the 
entrance to the village; and on 
leaving it, the traveller will notice 
the first of a series of stockades and 
outlooks, by which the peasants 
endeavour to protect their little 
patches of cultivation from the at- 
tacks of wild boar. Many other 
wild animals roam at will over this 
remote forest region of Kishu and 
southern Yamato, notably the wolf, 
the monkey, the deer, and the niku, 
which latter seems to be a kind of 
chamois. Two hills — the Kobiro-to- 
ge and Buju-toge — separate Nonaka 
from Yunomine. The walk unfolds 
a succession of delightful contrasts, 
— the lovely glen of the Hiraigo- 
gawa, with its wild profusion of 
cherry-trees, azaleas, maples, camel- 
lias, lagerstroemias (saru-suberi), 
ferns, mosses, etc., offering bright 
hues for every season of the year ; — 
next the panorama from the breezy 
top of the Buju-tdge over a wilder- 
ness of densely wooded mountains 
and deep ravines ; and then the 
descent through the severe simpli- 
city of a forest of nothing but 
conifers, where, after a time, one 
catches the sound of rushing water, 
and sees far below the Magari-kawa 
aptly so called from its many 
windings. But the curious part of 
the matter is that the Magari-kawa 
and the Hiraigo-gawa form in reali- 
ty but one and the same valley, the 
upper part of which is dowered with 
botanical wealth, while the lower 
appears stern in its simplicity. 

Yunomine (Inn, Ise-ya and sev- 
eral others) is the most comfort- 
able village on the route, — far pre- 
ferable to Hongu, 25 cho further 



5?6 



Route &%.—ihrough Eumano to ts$. 



on, as a place to spend the night. 
The slight odour of the sulphur 
springs to which Yunomine owes its 
fame, is perceptible immediately on 
entering the place. The principal 
spring gushes out in mid-village, 
just above the river's edge, and the 
women carry their vegetables to 
cook in it. The original tempera- 
ture of the spring utilised for the 
public bath is 198° Fahrenheit. 
Hard by is a little temple dedicated 
to Yakushi Nyorai,whose large image 
is cut out of stone encrusted with 
sulphur. The people bring teapots to 
get them encrusted in like manner. 

The local hero is Oguri Hangwan (see 
p. 82). On the way from Yunomine to 
Hongu is a mound called Kuruma-zaka, 
beneath which, on being restored to 
health and strength, Oguri Hangwan is 
said to have buried the barrow used by 
Terute Hime to wheel him hither. 

The best plan to pursue is to 
leave one's luggage at Y r unomine, 
and stroll over thence to Hongu 
to see the temples, returning to 
Yunomine to sleep. The Yuno- 
mine innkeepers are accustomed to 
make arrangements for boats down 
the river, and will have one in 
waiting for the traveller on the 
following morning. A cheap public 
boat (here called josen) starts from 
Hongu for Shingu at a very uncer- 
tain time in the forenoon, and 
takes about 6 hrs. to perform the 
journey, except in flood- time, when 
the voyage is much quicker, but 
dangerous. To take the public boat, 
however, debars one from visiting 
Doro Hatcho ; so every well-advised 
traveller will engage a boat of 
his own (kai-kiri). The price 
is 4 yen for a boat with three 
men to go down the rapids from 
Hongu to Miai, thence up the Kita- 
yama-gawa to Doro Hatcho, and 
down to Shingu : —time, 2 days. 

Hongu [Inn, Tama-ya) stands at 
the junction of a streamlet called 
the Otonashi-gawa with the broad 
Kumano-gawa. Though now but 
a poor village, it boasts a celebrated 
Shinto shrine. 



For what little is Imown of the early 
history of this place, see p. 373. In the 
great floods of 1889 the river rose 60 ft. 
and the entire village was destroyed, the 
temple buildings themselves, which stood 
close to the water's edge, being mostly 
swept away. Out of twelve, only four 
remained available for restoration and 
repair; and notwithstanding the im- 
memorial sanctity of their previous site, 
they were removed to the neighbouring 
hill, where they now occupy a command- 
ing and perfectly safe position. A stone 
monument on the original site, consist- 
ing of two small coffer-shaped structures 
within an enclosure, commemorates the 
eight vanished temples and their gods. 
The chief festival at Hongu is celebrated 
on the 15th April, smaller ones on the 1st 
and 15th of every month. One of the 
peculiar rites is the pounding of rice- 
cakes {mocJii) by the pilgrim bands, as 
an offering to the local gods. For this 
purpose, gigantic pestles and mortars are 
provided at all the inns. 

Temples 1 and 2 are combined 
under a single roof, in what is 
called the ni-sha-zukim etyle. A 
peculiar appearance is produced by 
the tawny-coloured suji-bei (see p. 
84) and the low stone wall, which 
together form the outer temple 
enclosure. Otherwise Hongu much 
resembles Ise, though on a smaller 
scale. Visitors are permitted to 
enter the pebble-strewn court inside 
the wall, but may not pass beyond 
the tama-gaki, which is of wood 
with gilt copper ornaments to 
conceal the nail-heads. The ends 
of the rafters of the temples are 
similarly adorned. 

A fiock of crows forms a prominent fea- 
ture in the o-fuda, or sacred pictures, sold 
at the three Kumano shrines, and also in 
the architectural ornaments of many sub- 
sidiary temples dedicated to the gods of 
Kumano, for instance, that situated in 
ligura, Tokyo. The reason is that these 
deities are believed to employ the crow 
as their messenger, wherefore also this 
bird is never killed within their precincts. 
There is a current belief to the effect 
that Koya-san is so precipitous that such 
luxuries a3 bean-curd (tofu) cannot be 
carried up to it, but that the priests place 
coppers on the temple balustrade, with 
which the crows fly off to Kumano and 
bring back bean- curd in return. 

The boat trip down the Rapids of 
the Kumano-gawa 



Kumano-gauca Rapids. t)oro Hatcho. 



37? 



^This river rises in the mountains of 
Yoshino. During its tipper course it is 
called the Totsugawa. Sometimes also it 
is called Otonase-gawa or Otonashi-gawa, 
properly the name of the tiny aSiuent 
that comes in at Hongu. 

is delightful, excitement constantly 
alternating with charming views 
of cliff, and azalea blossom, and 
splendid timber. The whole dis- 
tance from Hongu to Shingu is 
called 9 ri 8 cho (ku-ri hat-chb, 
not to be confounded with the 
name of Doro Hat cho) ; but of course 
this is considerably increased by 
diverging up the Kitayama-gawa to 
see the latter place. Specially 
celebrated is a spot on the 1. bank, 
about 1 hr. down from Hongu, called 
Shimoku-zan, whither Japanese 
painters often come to sketch the 
perpendicular basaltic cliffs crown- 
ed with fantastic pines, — a scene 
that lacks only some quaint pagoda 
on the least accessible crag to 
make it the perfect embodiment of 
the style of landscape which the 
Far-Eastern artist most loves to 
reproduce on screen, and porcelain 
rjlate, and lacquer tray. To com- 
plete the illusion, monkeys may 
sometimes be seen clinging to the 
overhanging branches of the trees. 
Just above and about 

Miai (Inn, Hana-no-jo) coal is 
worked in three or four places, but 
is of poor quality. Here is the 
junction of the Kumano-gawa with 
its large affluent, the Kitayaina- 
gawa, a sight recalling that of the 
meeting of the Rhone and Saone. 
Y>'hile the Kitayama-gawa is of 
crystalline clearness, the Kumano- 
gawa has run thick and muddy ever 
since the floods of 1889. For some 
little distance, the two streams 
flow on side by side without 
mingling. 

The ascent of the Kitayama- 
gawa from Miai involves towing 
up another set of rapids, varied by 
occasional sailing ; for if there be 
any wind at all, it is sure to serve 
from time to time, owing to the 
deep elbow-bends made by the 



stream. Though progress be slow 
— about 7 hrs. from Miai to Tado, 
— the time is agreeably spent 
drinking in the charms of the 
scenery, and watching the skilfully 
navigated rafts that carry timber to 
the coast, or the fishermen who, 
generally in bands of four on each 
reach of the river, peer into the 
water for trout, and when they see 
any, cast hand-nets over them with 
amazing rapidity. The names of 
the hamlets on each bank on the 
way up are: — Miai r., Shitaki 1., 
Kei r., Kujii r., Taketo r., Yuno- 
kuchi r., Kogawa-guchi 1. where 
an affluent comes in ; Shimazu r., 
Kizuro 1., Tamai-guchi r., and Tado 
r. All are poor. Many are re- 
markable for being built tier above 
tier up the face of the mountain, 
with stone terraces to keep what 
little soil there is in place. At 
Kuju, a little waterfall will be 
noticed. 

[This hamlet is the starting-point 
of those who desire to climb 
Tamaki-san (3 ri), a mountain 
noted for its enormous crypto- 
merias and for a temple dedi- 
cated to the gods of Kumano, 
which is considered the Oku- 
no-in of Hongu. The summit 
(3,750 ft.) commands a view 
over a sea of mountains.] 

Kizuro and Tado being the only 
hamlets on the Kitayama-gawa 
possessing houses dignified with the 
name of inn, one or other of them 
should be selected for the night's 
halt. The former is about 1 ri below 
Doro Hatcho, the latter just above 
it. If possible, the latter should be 
pushed on to, as one thus gains the 
advantage of seeing Doro Hatcho 
in the strongly contrasting lights of 
evening and morning. 

Doro Hatcho is a gorge of the 
Kitayama-gawa, stretching between 
the hamlets of Tamai-guchi and 
Tado. The name does not mean, as 
might be supposed, u eight hundred 
yards of mud," but " eight hundred 



378 



Route 42. — Through Kumano to he. 



yards of tranquil water," with 
rapids below and rapids above ; and 
in reality the gorge is double that 
length, — not 8 cho, but 16 chb. Deep 
green pellucid water, fairy vegeta- 
tion, — especially in May and June 
when the azaleas and rhododen- 
drons burst into bloom from every 
nook and cranny, — dainty little 
sandy beaches, coves, pinnacles, 
caves, on either side white battle- 
ments of rock of a fine-grained sili- 
ceous sandstone, curiously jointed 
and worked in together somewhat 
like the teeth in a jaw or the pieces 
of a puzzle, and forming pillars and 
overhanging stockades crowned 
with pines and reflected in the 
liquid mirror below, — all this com- 
bines to form a perfect specimen of 
natural landscape-gardening on a 
grand scale. When seen in the 
mists of early dawn or by moon- 
light, it is the very image of the 
haunts of the genii as pourtrayed 
by the artists of China and Japan. 
Names are given to various salient 
rocks, such as the Boat, the Hat, 
the gods Ebisu and Daikoku, etc. ; 
but they have no special appro- 
priateness, and there is little use in 
taking a guide at Kizuro or Tamai- 
guchi to point them out, as the 
natives will probably suggest. The 
scenery continues very fine for 
several miles above Doro Hatcho, 
more especially at a place called 
01, 5 ri higher up ; but boats cannot 
ascend further than Komatsu, 
whence it is an arduous walk of 
8 J miles. 

[Doro Hatchd may also be reach- 
ed from Aiawa, a vill. 2 ri 25 
cho N.E. of Shingu on the 
coast, whence 6 ri to Kogawa- 
guchi, where boats can be 
obtained. From Atawa to Ko- 
gawa-guchi the road leads over 
the Fuden-zaka, and through 
Nakadachi and other villages. 
The whole distance from Shingu 
to Kogawa-guchi may be done 
in jinrikisha.] 



From Doro Hatch5 back to Miai 
and thence to Shingu is a short 
day's journey by boat, being all 
down stream. Rapids and pretty 
scenery accompany one the whole 
way, until suddenly there appears 
ahead a square-topped wooded 
height, lower than the other hills. 
This is where stood the Castle of 
Shingu, now demolished. To the r. 
is seen a grove of tall cryptomerias, 
marking the site of the temple of 
the gods of Kumano. The Kuma- 
no-gawa, like several other rivers 
on this coast, ends in an anoma- 
lous fashion, there being no 
mouth to it at all except during the 
summer floods, because the water 
oozes out to sea through the sand. 
Nevertheless, the current is rapid 
to tne last. 

Shingu (Inn, *Abura-ya), which 
lives chiefly by the trade in timber 
brought down the river, has little 
to detain the traveller. The castle 
site should be visited for the sake 
of the fine view. The Shrines of 
Kumano (commonly called Shingu 
Gongen) were burnt down in 1883, 
and only three out of the former 
twelve shrines have been rebuilt. 
Of the Shinto Temple of Kami-no- 
kura, dedicated to the goblin (tengu) 
Takagami, there likewise remains 
little but the site ; and the Grave of 
Shin no Jofuku will interest only 
the archaeologist. What little there 
is to see at Shingu can all be seen 
in 3 hours. 

At the temple of Kami-no-kura, which 
is perched on the top of a high rock, the 
male inhabitants of the town still cele- 
brate an ancient and curious festival 
(Taimatsu Matsuri) on the 5th day of the 
1st moon, old style. A large number, 
young and old, some of them fathers with 
children strapped to their backs, and all 
with torches in their hands, run up the 
steep, irregular flight of steps leading to 
the temple site, and on reaching the top, 
are shut up in a narrow enclosure, packed 
as tight as they can hold, by another 
band of holiday-makers outside. Sud- 
denly the gate is opened, and down they 
all rush helter-skelter, as fast as their legs 
can carry them, still with the lighted 
torches in their hands; and in feudal 
days, he who reached the bottom first 



Shingu. Nachi. 



379 



received a bag of rice as a reward from 
the lord of the castle. It is averred that 
accidents never happen, notwithstanding 
the steepness of the steps, the flaming 
torches, and the hurry and confusion. 
Nevertheless, to obviate sucb a possibility 
and also to cheer on the runners, their 
relatives line the staircase on either 
side. — The hill above the temple site is 
supposed to be the goblin's playground. 

Shin-no-Jofuku (the Chinese pronuncia- 
tion of his name is Ch'in Hsu Fu), having 
been sent by the Emperor Shi Huang Ti 
(R.C. 269-221) to search for the elixir of 
life, is said to have discovered Elysium 
(Horai-zan), alias Japan, which he colo- 
nised with three thousand beautiful young 
men and maidens. Such, according to a 
legend widely credited in China, was the 
origin of the Japanese nation. The 
present stone dates only from the middle 
of the 17th century. Some small mounds 
in the neighbourhood are alleged to be 
the tombs of his followers. 

In all this part of Japan both 
sexes smoke tobacco rolled up in 
camellia leaves, the effect produced 
being that of the stump end of a 
green cheroot. Bundles of leaves 
for this purpose are sold in the 
Shingu shops for an infinitesimal 
sum. 

The birthplace of the celebrated 
Benkei (p. 71) was at the Funada 
ferry just above Shingu, which is 
passed 1. on quitting the town. 

The road from Shingu to Nachi, 
all of which, except the last ri, is 
practicable for jinrikishas, offers a 
succession of varied views. Special- 
ly delightful are those of the Bays 
of Jlhcazaki (Inn, Onoya) and Ugui. 

At Miwazaki and all along the coast to 
the E, where bonito-fishing is one of the 
sources of livelihood, the boats will 
be seen painted in bright colours, with 
patterns of flowers and the auspicious 
charactei ^ signifying " long life." 
This is done in order to attract that fish, 
which is believed to be highly aesthetic 
and fastidious in its tastes. — It is the 
beach between Shingu and Nachi that 
provides the checker-players of Japan 
with their best go-ishi— water worn peb- 
bles of slate quartzite which serve as 
" men." 

At Haiivi-no-miya, the road turns 
inland. Jinrikishas can be left to 
await the traveller's return at the 
hamlet of Iseki, as 

Nachi may be " done " in a few 



hours, though it well deserves at 
least a day, and there is good ac- 
commodation at the Shiozaki inn, 
near the temples, and overlooking 
the waterfall. The approach is by a 
large torli, and several flights of 
stone steps lined with magnificent 
cryptomerias. The height of the 
place, the luxuriant vegetation, 
and the nearness to so much run- 
ning water, make Nachi a delightful 
summer retreat. 

Remark that, in its wider acceptation, 
NacM includes Iseki and several other 
hamlets, as far as Hama-no-Miya en the 
sea-shore. We use the name in its nar- 
rower sense, to designate the village in 
the hills which is famed for its temples 
and waterfalls. 

The very popular Buddhist Temple 
of iSfachi, No. 1 of the Thirty-three 
Places Sacred to Kwannon, dates 
— at least the present building dates 
— from the year 1590. It is filled 
with ex-votos and miscellaneous 
adornments, its columns are past- 
ed over with pilgrims' cards, and 
priests sit at little tables to sell 
staves and charms of more than 
usual variety. The Temple of Ku- 
mano, which stands close by, is 
in pure Shinto style. It was re- 
built early in the last reign, and 
is dedicated to Kumano Fusumi, 
Izanagi, Izanami, Kuni-toko-tachi, 
Ama-terasu, and a number of lesser 
divinities. But the great attrac- 
tion of Nachi lies in its Waterfalls, 
one of which (275 ft.) is generally 
accounted the highest in Japan. 

Tradition says that the Buddhist saint, 
Mongaku Shonin (p. 80) remained three 
weeks in the water just below the basin 
of this fall, fasting and doing penance. 

The Great, or First Fall (Ichi no 
Taki), which is close to the vill., is 
easily accessible. An exploration 
of the lesser, but romantically 
situated, Second and Third Falls 
(Ni no Taki and San no Taki), 
higher up the course of the same 
stream, involves some scrambling 
over the slippery rocks that serve 
as natural stepping-stones. Rare 



380 



Route 4£.— Through Hurftano to isd 



ferns and mosses luxuriate on every 
side. Beyond this, higher up the 
mountain again, are numerous 
smaller cascades. On the opposite 
side of the Nachi valley, another 
stream forms a fall named In-yo no 
Takl, or " Sexual Fall ", on account 
of the shape of a large rock in the 
centre. 

Katsura (Inn, Kaigetsu) posses- 
ses an ideal little harbour, perfectly 
landlocked owing to an island at 
its mouth, and so deep that steamers 
can anchor close to the shore. Ten 
min. across the little bay by boat 
are the hot springs of Akajima. 
The principal local industry is 
fishing. The best plan — granting 
that the traveller is blessed with 
an even temper, which will stand 
the possible and seemingly un- 
reasonable lengthening out of a 
single day's voyage into three or 
four — is to take one of the coasting 
steamers that touch at Katsura al- 
most daily. He can thus see most 
advantageously what is best in Ki- 
shu, — its delightful coast scenery, — 
and will be spared dreadful roads 
and an almost endless amount of 
climbing. 

[It is only as far as Kinomoto, 
where also steamers can be 
picked up, that the land jour- 
ney can be done with any 
comfort. The Itinerary is as 
follows : — 

KATSUEAto:— Ri Cho M. 

Shingu 4 24 11J 

Narukawa ferry 6 ^ 

Atawa 2 19 6J 

Kinomoto 3 17 8 J 

Total 10 30 26J 

All this is level and passable 
for jinrikishas, much of it lying 
through a pleasant pine- wood 
that skirts the sea-shore. From 
Kinomoto, it is possible to reach 
Owase in one day (11 J ri 
through densely wooded valleys 
and mountains, with magnifi- 
cent views from the Yanagawa- 



toge), and Nagashima (7 ri ol 
alternate inland and sea road) 
in another. But one must be 
a very sturdy pedestrian and 
be favoured with fine weather, 
the climb over the Obiki-zaka 
■ — lit. " the Hill of Long-Drawn- 
Outness" — and w T ell does it 
deserve the name, — the hills 
quaintly called Sonetaro and 
Sonejiro, the Yaki-yama-toge, 
the Magose-zaka, the Hajikami- 
zaka, and other rough passes 
being most fatiguing.] 

2. — Chief Fxaces on the E. Coast. 

The whole coast line is wonder- 
fully picturesque, with bays, pen- 
insulas, and fantastic rocks. 

Kinomoto (Inn, Morimoto) has 
only an open roadstead. The dill's 
here are remarkably honeycombed, 
— blistered, as it were. These on 
the right-hand side of the town 
(looking from the sea) are called 
Oni-ga-jo, or the Demons' Castle. 

This name they derive from the belief 
that they were the abode of demons, til] 
the latter were subdued by Tamura Maro 
early in the 9th century— The syllable 
M, one meaning of which, in the Japanese 
pronunciation of the Chinese characters, 
is "demon" J^ recurs in many of the 
place-names about here. Thus we have 
kinomoto, M^ishima, Mi&isato, YaH; 
and local legend has fabricated something- 
appropriate to fit each. In reality the hi 
means "tree" in most of these names, — 
Mikizato, for instance, signifying "the 
village of three trees," not " the village 
of three demons." 

The high cliffs on the 1. of the 
town, beneath which the creatress 
Izanami is said to lie buried, is 
called Hana no Iixaya, 

A straw rope (called shime-nawa) is 
stretched from the summit of this cliff 
to the trunk of a pine-tree below. This 
is renewed every year in February and 
October with great festivities, when 
enormous quantities of flowers are offer- 
ed up, whence the name of the rock. At 
another festival, in July, a circular pile 
of firewood is built up to a height of 20 
or 25 ft., and the youths of the village try 
their skill in throwing a lighted torch to 



East Coast of Kishu. 



381 



the top, so as to kindle the pile. This is 
apparently done in honour of Kagutsuchi, 
the God 'of Fire or of Summer Heat, 
whose sepulchre is said to_ be under a 
small rock opposite, called Oji no Iwaya, 
or the Prince's Cavern. 

iN'ig-isliima (Inn, Jubei) is a 
completely landlocked, pretty little 
harbour with deep anchorage. The 
hills, which rise round it in a 
circle, are cnltiyated in terraces. 

Sone and Mikizato also have 
landlocked bays. The camphor-tree 
and vegetable wax-tree grow wild 
on the steep hills of this part of the 
coast, w T here cultivation can only be 
carried on in terraces supported by 
retaining walls. At 

Owase (Inn, Atarashi-ya), the 
hills retire to a little distance, like 
wings on either side of the spacious 
bay. Owase is a populous junk- 
port, and the most flourishing place 
on all this coast. 

Nagashixna (Inn, Hama-no- 
Arashi-ya) has but a poor harbour. 
The entrance, however, is very 
pretty, with the broken line of 
Oshima to the r., like a hand half- 
sunk beneath the water and only 
the finger-tips appearing. The 
inhabitants devote themselves to 
catching bonitos, which they dry 
and salt for export. — The aspect of 
the coast is broken and picturesque 
all the way on hence to the province 
of Shima, and round the latter 
towards Ise ; but the densely wood- 
ed hiils gradually sink in height. 

The interior being again practic- 
able from Nagashima onwards, we 
here leave the steamer, and strike 
across country in a N.E. direction. 

Itinerary. 

NAGASHIMA to:— Hi Oho M. 

Uchi-Mayumi 3 8 7§ 

Nojiri 4 17 11 

Mise 1—2^ 

Kuryu 1 26 d| 

Oka village 4 11 10* 

„ station 31 2 

Total 15 21 38 



First we cross the rather steep 
Nizaka-tbge, which a fine road 
makes passable for jinrikishas. 
From points on the ascent, lovely 
vignettes are obtained of mountains 
all the way from Odai-ga-hara to 
the sea, and of the much indented 
coast as far as Miwazaki. The 
town and bay of Nagashima lie just 
below, with the inlet called Kata- 
kami-no-ike, and the gravelly river- 
bed of the Sando-gawa. At the top 
of this pass the traveller leaves the 
province of Kishu, 

Kishu, originally Ki-no-kuni, the 
"Country of Trees," is the ancient seat 
of the cult of Susa-no-o (see p. 54) and his 
son Iso-takeru. The former is said to have 
brought the seeds of trees from Korea, 
and to have planted Japan with them ; 
and as this region was celebrated for its 
timber, the seat of his worship was natur- 
ally established here. 

and enters the province of Ise. 
The descent on the other side is 
gradual and the scenery pleasing, 
being spoilt only by partial de- 
forestation. The stream followed is 
an affluent of the Miyagawa, called 
Ouchi-yama-gawa. The best halt- 
ing-place is the vill. of Saki (Inn, 
K5zaki-ya), a short way beyond 
Mayumi. 

IKTojiri (Inns, Hashimoto-ya, 
Nishimura-ya), though scarcely 
known to the outer world, is much 
frequented by pious pilgrims, as it 
possesses a set of Shintd temples 
called Takihara G-u, which, notwith- 
standing their small size, yield but 
little in sanctity to those of Yamada 
(commonly known as the shrines 
of Ise) themselves. They stand 
in a solemn and impressive grove 
of cryptomeria and chama3cyparis. 
As at Yamada, so here also there 
are two temple sites, which are 
built on alternately once in every 
twenty years. 

The rauon d'etre of this holy place is a 
tradition to the effect that the Sun-God- 
dess rested here for some time on the 
way to Yamada (Uji), where she finally 
took up her permanent abode. Hence 
Nojiri is called Taoi-sho, that is, " the 



382 



Route 43. — Minor Itineraries in Kishu. 



August Wayside Place," or Ko Daijingu 
no Bekku, " the Supreme Goddess's Sepa- 
rate Palace." 

From Nojiri ^the road is flat tlie 
whole way to Oka, where the rail- 
way to Yamacla (for Ise) is joined. 



KOUTE 43. 

Minoe Itinbbabies in Kishu. 

1. — From Tanabe to Shingu by the 
coast. (This road is popularly 
known as O-hechi, while the inland 
road from Tanabe to Hongu and 
thence across country to Nachi is 
called Naka-hechi.) 

TANABE to :— Bi Oho M. 

Asso 1 28 4J 

Tonda 1 12 3J- 

Ago 3 9 8 

Susami 1 18 3| 

Esnmi 4 32 12 

Wabuka 1 26 4J- 

Tanami 2 9 5J 

Knshimoto 1 24 4 

Koza 1 3 2| 

Shimozato 4 18 11 

Temma 1 31 4J 

Miwazaki 2 20 %\ 

SHINGU 1 25 4 

Total .,,.31 19 77 



There are said to be no less than 
forty-eight passes (Shi-j it-has -saka) 
on the first half of the way, so that 
almost all of this has to be walked, 
except where one can get a lift 
from a boat or coasting steamer, 
which latter calls daily at all the 
larger places. The coast is deeply 
indented with bays, and has rocks 
and reefs rising everywhere out of 
the water. The country inland, 
though rough, is likewise highly 
picturesque, except where spoilt 
by deforestation, and the winter 



climate so mild that snow rarely 
falls more than once a year, and 
ice is seldom seen. 

The first part of the road is inland 
as far as Esumi, w T here it comes out 
on the sea. Thence on to Kushimoto 
{Inn, Kinjo-kwan), the path alter- 
nates between short steep inland 
ascents and narrow tracks along the 
shores of bays. From Kushimoto 
onwards, jinrikishas may be availed 
of. There is fair accommodation 
at Tanabe, Ago, Susami, Esumi, 
Kushimoto, Koza, and Shimozato. 
The temples of Muryo-ji and Jojuji 
at the prosperous town of Kushi- 
moto have fine fusuma painted by 
Okyo and his pupil Kosetsu. 

2. — From Hongu to Nachi. 

HONGU to:— Bi Oho M. 

Ukegaw T a _ 1 ..... 25 If 

Koguchi (Oyama) ) . qa 

Irogawa J 4 

NA0HI i8 2 25 6J 

Total 7 14 18 



These distances are taken from 
local statements, but seem under- 
estimated. The road, much trav- 
ersed by pilgrims, lies over the 
passes called, from their height, by 
the quaint names of Ko-gumo-tori 
and 0-gumo-tori, that is, literally, 
the Lesser Cloud-Taker and the 
Greater Cloud- Taker. 

3. — Byujin, near the borders of Ya- 
mato, noted for an alkaline spring, 
can be best approached either from 
Yuasa (see p. 374) up the pictur- 
esque valley of the Hidaka-gawa, 2 
hilly days' march ; or from Minabe 
(p. 374), partly by jinrikisha in 1 
day; or thirdly from Koya-san, 11 
ri on foot, the halt for the first night 
being usually made at Atarahi [Inn, 
Omote-ya) 3 ri from Koya-san. 
Ryujin offers excellent accommoda- 
tion, the best of its numerous inns 
being the Ebisu-ya. It is cool in 
summer, standing at a height of 
1,109 ft. 



Route 44. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate. 



383 



ROUTE 44. 



Feom Kyoto to Maizuru and 
Ama-no-Hashidate. [From 

MlYAZU TO KlNOSAKI.] 



Distance 


Names of Stations 


from Kyoto 




Miles 


KYOTO (Nijo) 


n 


Hanazono 


n 


Saga 


ii 


Kameoka 


16 


Yagi 


19f 


Sonobe 


2-U 


Tonoda 


27| 


Goma 


34| 


T\ r achi 


41i 


Yamaga 


45| 


Ayabe Jet. (for 




Osaka) 


51 


Umesako 


58 


MAIZUKU 


621 


(Shin-Maizuru, for 




dockyard) 



This is a 2 J hrs. run through, 
pretty country, for the first 11 miles 
of which (to Kameoka) see p. 341 
under " Arashi-yama." Kameoka 
and Yagi lie in a fertile, mountain- 
girt plain. After Sonobe, the tun- 
nels re-commence (there are eleven 
on the way hence to Ayabe), as the 
line enters the green Tamba hills. 
The highest point is reached at Go- 
ma, 753 ft. above sea-level, whence 
it is at first a steep gradient down 
towards the Sea of Japan along the 
valley of the Yuragawa, a stream 
whose swift green waters and rocky 
bed, set in a frame of steep wooded 
hills, recall the Arashi-yama stretch. 
Many bridges are crossed, one of 
which is 1,416 ft. long. The stream 
is quitted at Ayabe; but the hills, 
some of them 2,000 ft. high, continue 
on to the coast. 

Maizuru (Inns, Furukane-ya, 
Seiwa-ro) was formerly the seat of 
a Daimyd. Numerous temples, both 
Buddhist and Shintd, lie on the hill- 



side above the town, that of Keirin- 
jl being specially worth a visit, and 
for the sake of the view from it. 

Maizuru is alternatively pronounced 
Bukaku, Maizuru being the native Japa- 
nese, Bukaku the Chinese, pronunciation 
of the characters used to write it, which 
mean " dancing crane." For this reason, 
a conventionalised crane forms the town's 
crest. 

The arsenal and docks at Shin 
Maizuru (Inn, Sho-ei-kwan), founded 
in 1901, one and a half ri off round 
a headland to the E., are not open 
to the public. 

There are two ways of reaching 
Ama-no-Hashidate from Maizuru. 
One is by small steamer to Miyazu, 
running three times daily. The 
other (see Itinerary of next Route) 
is by an excellent road which 
runs along bold granite cliffs 
high above the sea, till, turning 
inland, it passes through a cutting 
from whose further end Ama-no- 
Hashidate is seen straight ahead, 
but not to advantage, and Miyazu 
to the 1. 

Miyazu (Inns, *Araki-ya, has a 
villa on the outskirts of the town, 
with bathing-stage and lovely view ; 
Kansei, near pier) is a small town 
possessing considerable fisheries, 
and having occasional steam com- 
munication east and west. It 
derives a reflected glory from Ama- 
no-Hashidate, which lies about 1 ri 
off. 

The curious name Ama-no-Hashidate, 
— in Chinese, Ten-kyd, — literally " the 
Bridge (or Ladder) of Heaven," is said to 
have been given to this place in allusion 
to the Ama no U/ci-Hashi, or " Floating 
Bridge of Heaven," whereon the creator 
and creatress, Izanagi and Izanami, stood 
when they stirred up the brine of pri- 
meval chaos with their jewelled spear, 
the drops from which consolidated into 
the first island of the Japanese archi- 
j)elago. 

Buddhist legend, too, has been busy 
about the place. Monju, the God of 
Wisdom, presides over the chief local tem- 
ple. The following story, depicted in the 
accompanying illustration, is also told. 
About A.D. 700, a pious hermit from 
Kyoto, named Saion Zenji, struck by the 



384 




Ama-no-Hashidate. 



385 



loveliness of Ama-no-Hashidate, took up 
his abode on Nariai-san, raising there a 
little shrine to Kwannon, the Goddess of 
Mercy, on a spot situated a short way 
above the Ippon-matsu, or " single pine- 
tree" mentioned below. There, facing 
the scene of beauty, he spent all his 
days chanting the Buddhist scriptures, 
much to the edification of the country 
folk who came to pray at the temple from 
time to time. But in this land of cold 
winters there came a season when the 
snow fell and fell, till it was piled up 
to a height of full twenty feet, and for 
many weeks all intercourse with the outer 
world was cut off. The hermit, looking 
out one morning, saw a deer that had 
perished of hunger and cold. He himself 
was cold and hungry, but he pitied the 
poor creature even though it was already 
dead, and he remembered likewise that 
even the laity were forbidden by the 
Merciful One to eat the flesh of beasts, 
— who are conscious suffering creatures 
as much as man himself, — how much 
more then a hermit specially devoted 
to a life of prayer and penance. Second 
thoughts, however, succeeded to these. 
The spirit, surely, of the divine com- 
mands should count above the letter, 
He could do more to help on the con- 
version of the world by tasting the deer's 
flesh and thus preserving his own life for 
the purpose of preaching to the country 
folk, than by lying down and dying, as 
he must otherwise do. He therefore cut 
off a slice of the venison, cooked it and 
ate half, leaving the other half in the pot. 
Soon afterwards, when milder weather 
allowed of a track being made up from 
the village to the holy mountain, the 
villagers came fearing to find their her- 
mit starved to death ; but lo and behold ! 
as they approached, his voice was heard 
ringing out clearly across the silvery 
scene in accents of prayer and praise. 
He told them what had happened. But 
when they looked into the pot for the 
other half of the slice of venison, lo ! it 
was no venison, but a bit of wood covered 
on oae side with gold foil. Then they ex- 
amined the sacred image of the goddess, 
and found that a piece of that very size 
and shape had been cut out of her loins ; 
and when they put the piece in its place, 
it clave to the image, whose wound was 
thus healed in a moment. Then all knew 
that the seeming stag had been no stag, 
but the merciful goddess Kwannon in 
disguise, who had given of her own 
spiritual flesh to support the pious hermit 
in his dire distress. 

Ama-no-Hashidate has been 
famous throughout Japan from 
time immemorial, as one of the San- 
kei, or " Three Great Sights " of the 
empire. Described in prosaic topo- 



graphical parlance, it is a narrow 
sandy spit, which nearly closes up a 
lateral arm of the gulf at whose head 
Miyazu is situated. Its length is a 
little under 28 cho, or not quite 2 m.; 
its breadth about 190 ft. A grove 
of pine-trees extends right along it. 
The arm or bay which it encloses, 
called Iwatalci no Minato, measures 
1 ri from E. to W., and over 1 ri 
from N. to S. The depth of the bay 
in the middle is 11 fathoms; but 
the entrance is too shallow to admit 
any but the smallest craft. Hence, 
though the waves may be in seeth- 
ing commotion on one side, on the 
other, but a few yards off, there is 
the perfect stillness of a mill-pond. 
At the southern tip, a break of some 
200 yards has to be crossed by ferry. 

Till 1870, the pine-grove came down to 
the water's edge at this southernmost 
point. In that year, when all authority 
was loosened by the impending downfall 
of feudalism, the common people, grasp- 
ing at a paltry gain, began ruthlessly to 
cut down the trees and dammed up the 
natural outlet of the inner lake in order 
to turn part of it into rice-nelds. Then, 
with the summer, rains, a great flood 
came down from Oe-yama and swept all 
away, including a beautiful lotus-pond 
belonging to the Monju-do. 

Such are the bare facts relating 
to this celebrated spot, which is 
reached by jinriMsha from Miyazu, 
the jinriMsha being also taken 
across the Monju-do ferry to ride 
along the pine-grove. But Ama-no- 
Hashidate, to be appreciated, must 
be viewed from a height. For this 
purpose, the jinrikisha should be 
taken on to the vill. of Ejiri at its 
N. end, and the visitor should climb 
a few cho up Nariai-san to Ipporir 
matsu, a solitary pine-tree, whence 
the prospect is as lovely as it is 
unique. Lake Iwataki lies on the 
r. hand, Miyazu Bay like another 
lake on the 1., with Ama-no-Hashi- 
date dividing the two like a delicate 
green thread. The bay of Kunda 
peeps out beyond the hills, shutting 
in Miyazu with Yura-ga-take be- 
hind. Turning round, we have 
the Sea of Japan stretching away 



386 Route 45. — From Lake Biwa to Ama-no-IIashidate. 



to the horizon with the high 
islands of Oshima and Kojima, and 
in the extreme distance Haku-san 
and the mountains of Kaga. This 
expedition can easily be done in 
an afternoon. — Another favourite 
point for viewing Ama-no-Hashi- 
date is Mybken-db, on the O-uchi 
tbge (see below) 2 ri 20 chb N.W. of 
Miyazu. 

What is called Ura-mawari, 
that is the N. coast of the bold 
headland to the N. W. of Miyazu, 
is a favourite summer resort, on 
account of its fine rocks and good 
sea air. The bay of Ine is the 
principal local fishing ground, 
whales being taken there, as well 
as many smaller fish. 

[The hot springs of Kinosaki (see 
Ete 49) can be reached in one 
day by jinriMsha with two men 
over the O-uchi-toge and Hiji- 
yama-toge, these hills having 
easy gradients, and pedestrians, 
on the other hand, being able 
to save a good deal by short 
cuts. — Ko-Ama-no-Hashidate is 
a pretty, but smaller pine-clad 
stretch, near Kumihama (Inn, 
Furitani-ya), on the way.l 

An alternative way to Maizuru is 
to take rail from Kobe or Osaka via 
Kanzaki Jet., Takara-zuka, Sanda, 
and Fukuchi-yama to Ayabe Jet., 
whence as above. The scenery 
resembles that on the line from 
Kyoto. For Takarazuka and neigh- 
bourhood, see p. 305. 

Fukuchi-yama (Funahashi Ho- 
tel) is a garrison town. It contains 
two castle sites, one in the town, 
the other half-an-hour distant, both 
commanding good views. — Travel- 
lers sometimes take boat hence 
down the river to Yura on the 
coast, a 4 hrs. trip through romantic 
scenery. — To Jbhe N.W. of Fukuchi- 
yama rises Oe-yama, a mountain 
celebrated in legend on account of 
the ogres who were said to dwell 
there. The encounter between 
Shuten Doji, their chief, and the 



brave warriors Raiko and Tsuna at 
the Basho Gate of Kyoto is a 
favourite art motive. Three and a 
half ri by jinriMsha take one to 
Ebmori (fair inn), where sleep; 
thence 3 ri more on foot to the base 
of the mountain and 2 J ri climb to 
the top, which affords a fine view 
over the Sea of Japan. Thus made, 
the expedition occupies one long 
day. An alternative plan is to walk 
over the mountain from Komori to 
Miyazu, 11 ri. 



EOUTE 45. 

Feom Lake Biwa to Ama-no- 
Hashidate. 

The first stage is by lake steamer 
from Otsu to Imazu in 3 J hrs., 

after which the Itinerary is as 
follows : — 

IMAZU to:— Bi Chb M. 

Kumagawa 4 18 11 

OBAMA 4 10 10J 

Wada(orboat) 5 13 13 

Takahama 18 1J 

Kissaka 2 17 6 

Ichiba 1 28 4£ 

MAIZUKU 2 18 6 

Yura 3 11 8 

MIYAZU 3 7 7f 

Total 27 32 68 



The trip along the west coast of 
Lake Biwa is delightful on a fine 
day. Yarious miniature ports are 
touched at, — Katata, Omizo (Katsu- 
no), Funaki, and Fukamizo, — and 
one gets a passing glimpse of 
several of the Omi Hakkei (see p. 
344), notably the pine-tree of Kara- 
saki. The whole lake basin is seen 
to be enclosed by mountains, the 
most conspicuous being Mikami- 
yama (also called the Fuji of Omi) 



The West Coast of Wakasa. 



387 



to the r., Ibuki-yama further ahead 
to the r., and the chain of Echizen 
forming a barrier straight ahead. 

Between Imazu (Inn, Fukuda- 
ya) and Kumagawa (Inn, Hishi-ya), 
the road runs over the hills separ- 
ating the province of Omi from 
that of Wakasa on the Sea of 
Japan. Except in summer, a lower 
temperature and a cloudier sky are 
apt to be met with as soon as the 
boundary is crossed. 

Obama (Inn, Yahara-ya), capital 
of Wakasa, is a clean seaport town, 
noted for a kind of lacquer 
(Wakasa-nuri) with serpentine and 
starred or dotted patterns in bronze 
or green. 

A tray or box occupies five or six 
months in the making. Even a pair of 
chop-sticks takes two months, owing to 
the many layers that are applied, and the 
drying necessary between each. 

The whole coast of Wakasa is ex- 
tremely pretty, recalling the Inland 
Sea, but greener and more abrupt, 
with steep islets and headlands 
all wooded. Such narrow strips 
and patches of arable land as are 
left between the precipitous hills 
and the sea are cultivated with 
great care, and the peasantry seem 
healthy and prosperous. The invig- 
orating sea-breezes are unaccom- 
panied by any sea smells, perhaps 
owing partly to the absence of tide. 

The tidelessness of this sea on the 
Japanese side was noted by the poet 
Hitnmaro twelve hundred years ago. The 
opposite Korean coast also has an un- 
usually small rise and fall, — something 
under 18 inches. 

Whether one proceed westward 
by boat across the Bay of Obama, 
or take the road, the scenery is equal- 
ly delightful. Tada-ga-take is the 
highest peak of the range rising 
behind the town. Aoba-yama ahead 
resembles Fuji in shape, but is 
tree- clad to the summit. From the 
landing-place at Wada it is flat on 
to Takahama (Inn, Mugi-ya), a large 
and prosperous vill. standing on a 
pretty bay. Thence it is an inland 



walk, amidst rich cultivation and 
over two or three hills, via Eissaka 

[This is the best place whence to 
climb Aoba-yama, 1 ri to the 
summit by an easy path.] 

to Ichiba and Maizuru (see p. 383). 

We are now in the province of 
Tango. The road soon enters the 
valley of the Yuragawa at its most 
picturesque part not far from the 
coast, steep hills — some of them 
2,000 ft. high — accompanying the 
river to its very mouth. Yura (Inn, 
Yamada-ya), a scattered vill. with 
good sea bathing, is mentioned in 
the national annals as the birth- 
place of Urashima (see p. 86). A 
fine road leads along the sea to 

Miyazu, for Ama-no-Hashi- 
date, see p. 383. 



388 Route 46. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu. 



BOUTE 46. 



The West Coast fbom Tsuruga to 
Fuktji, Kanazawa, Toyama, 

AND NAOETSU. 



This trip enables the traveller to 
see something of the seaboard of the 
provinces of Echizen, Kaga, and 
Etchu on the Sea of Japan. 

Matbaea-Tsuruga-Naoetsu 
Eailway. 



CD 

& -. e> 


Names 




a 9-2 






ft 


of 
Stations 


Remarks 


Miles 






45 


MAIBAEA Jet. . . 


See p. 227. 


m 


Nagahama 




561 


Takatsuki 




59 


Kinomoto 




611 


Nakanogo 




64f 


Yanagase 




71 


Hikida 




1H 


TSURUGA 




831 


Suizu 




911 


Imajo 




96| 


Sabananii 




102 


Takefu 




1051 


Sabae 




1101 
1131 
117| 


Odoro 

FUKUI 

Morita 


( Ascent of 
[ Haku-san. 


1211 


Maruoka 




1241 


Kanazu 




1271 


Hosorogi 




132f 


Daishoji 




1371 


Iburi-hashi 




1431 


Komatsu 




1491 


Mikawa 




155* 


Matsuto 




1611 


KANAZAWA 




169 


Tsubata Jet 


( Change for 
( Nanao. 


1771 


Isurugi 




1811 


Fukuoka 


( Branches to 


1871 


Takaoka Jet 


J Fushiki and 
( J6-ga-hana. 


1911 


Kosngi 




1981 


TOYAMA 




2021 


Higashi-Iwashi 




205* 


Mizuhashi 




2081 


Nameri-kawa 




214 


UOZU 





r 218 


Mikkaichi 




220* 


Ikuji 




225* 


Nyuzen 




2281 


Tomari 




2341 


ICHIBURI 




240 


Oya-shirazu 




2431 

247} 


Omi 




ITOIGAWA .... 


See p. 267. 


250£ 
2551 


Kaji-yashiki 




No 




2611 


Tsuzuishi 




2651 


Nadachi 




270| 


Tanihama 




2721 
2741 


Gochi 




NAOETSU Jet. 





The railway journey between 
Kyoto and Maibara is described in 
Eonte 23 ; and the shores of Lake 
Biwa, as far as the next station, 
Nagahama, in Eonte 38. 

At Nagahama (Inn, Izutsu-ya, 
at station), the railway leaves the 
lake. From Nakanog5 onward to 
Hikida, it runs in narrow valleys 
between wooded hills, and up 
through a long tunnel ; whence 
down through three more tunnels 
and green hills to the coast of the 
Sea of Japan. 

Tsuruga (Tsuruga Hotel, Europ. 
style,) has the best harbour on this 
sea, and has accordingly been chosen 
as the connecting port with Vladivo- 
stok and the trans-Siberian Eailway 
(see p. 2). The town itself is some- 
what shut in, and the houses are 
exceptionally small and low ; but a 
pretty view of land and sea may be 
obtained by visiting the pine-grove 
(Matsu-bara) 12 cho distant. The 
long promontory closing in the bay 
on the W. side, and sheltering it 
from those N.W. blasts that render 
the winter on this coast so terrible, 
is called Tateishi-zaki. On its 
extremity stands a lighthouse, 
not, however, visible from the 
town. The stretch of land to the 
N.E., which looks like a promontory 
as seen from Tsuruga, is called 
Kome -no- ura . Kane - ga - saki, a 
suburb of Tsuruga, is seen just 
across the bay to the r. 

A spare hour at Tsuruga might 
be spent in visiting the temple of 
Hachiman at Tsuru-ga-oka on the 






Fukui. Various Spas. 



389 



E. side of the harbour, and the park 
laid out on the hill behind, formerly 
the site of the old castle, command- 
ing a fine view. 

Backing out of Tsuruga, the train 
climbs through narrow valleys and 
five tunnels to Suizu, whence 
picturesque peeps of the Bay of 
Tsuruga. The descent from this 
station leads through more narrow 
valleys and tunnels to Imajo. 
After Sabanami, the hills on either 
hand begin to leave a wider space 
for rice cultivation. 

Takefu (Inn, Yanagi-ya, at 
station) manufactures marbled 
paper, cotton, silk, and hardware. 
A striking object in the vicinity is 
the mountain called Hina-ga-take. 

Fukui (Inns, *Tsuki-mi-ro, 
Nawa-ya), on the Ashiba-gawa, 
formerly the capital of the Daimyos 
of Echizen, still possesses the 
picturesque remains of the castle 
which was their seat, and a Hon- 
gwanji temple. The castle grounds 
are now used for fruit cultivation 
under the direction of the ex- 
Daimyo. Fukui is noted for the 
manufacture of habutai, paper, and 
yuton, — a thick oil-paper used to 
cover the mats in summer. A 
species of crab, called magani, is 
caught all along the coast, and 
tinned for export. A pleasant 
excursion can be made from Fukui 
to the waterfall of Ichijo-daki, 
distant 4J ri. In the same valley, 2 
or 3 miles below the waterfall, stand 
the ruins of a castle dating from 
the 16th century. — Sakai, the port 
of Fukui, lies 13J m. distant 
from the city. Fukui is the best 
place from which to make the 
ascent of Haku-san (see p. 270). 

Daishqji (Inn, Yata-ya) was one 
of the places to which the Christians 
of the Nagasaki district were exiled 
during the last persecution in 
1867-73. 

[Close to this place lie two spas 
much resorted to by the 
Japanese, — Yamashiro (Inns, 



*Kura-ya, *Ara-ya) and Yama- 
naka, at the foot of the hills. 
An excursion to them may be 
best managed by taking jinriki- 
sha, 1 ri 20 cho, from Daishqji 
to Yamashiro, where spend the 
night, and next morning by 
jinrikisha again for another 
1 ri 20 cho along the valley of 
the Sakai-gawa to Yamanaka, 
which boasts some pretty river 
and rock scenery, especially at 
two points called Kurodani 
and Korogi. Both spas con- 
sist chiefly of inns lining a 
square, in whose centre stands 
the public bath-house ; but at 
Yamashiro the delicious warm 
water is also led into the inns. 
On the afternoon of the second 
day, rejoin the railway at Iburi- 
hashi. Other noted places in 
the vicinity of Yamashiro are 
Nata-dera with rock scenery, 
Awazu and Kata-yamazu with 
springs. 

This district supplies the 
well-known Kutani porcelain. 
The vill. of Kutani itself lies 
among the hills some 2 ri S. of 
Yamanaka, but nothing now 
remains there to see. Yama- 
shiro produces most of the clay, 
and also possesses two of the 
principal kilns. Others exist 
all the way on to Kanazawa, 
notably at Komatsu and Terai ; 
but the clay at this last place 
is of inferior quality. 

The manufacture of Kutani porce- 
lain dates from the close of the 17th 
century* when beautiful pieces were 
produced called Ao-Kutani, because 
of a transparent green {ao) enamel of 
great brilliancy, which was largely 
used in its decoration. The other 
colours used were mostly yellow, 
purple, and a nearly opaque blue, 
very rarely red. Silver was also free- 
ly employed. In the second period, 
beginning about I~<80, Kutani is a 
faience irregularly crackled and dis- 
tinguished by a peculiar waxy, ivory- 
white glaze, About the year 18i3, a 
novel style of decoration was intro- 
duced, which has remained typical 
of all the procelains of this province. 
The ground is red, with designs— 



390 Route 46. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu. 



generally minute and elaborate — 
traced in gold. The earlier speci- 
mens of this style justly command 
universal admiration. Unfortunate- 
ly, since 1869, the pure native taste 
has gradually been corrupted by 
wholesale orders from abroad for 
big flashy vases, and for tea and din- 
ner services crowded with patterns 
and figures, in which the artistic eye 
soon wearies of the crude massing 
of red pigment and the perpetual 
glitter of gilding.] 

Beyond Iburi-hashi (poor accom- 
modation), the mountains are seen 
to best advantage, especially the 
pyramid and two domes of Haku- 
san. After passing Komatsu, the 
first plimpse is gained of the surf- 
beaten though flat sea-coast, where 
the Tetori-gawa is crossed at its 
mouth, immediately before the 
station of 

Mikawa (Inn, *Yoshino-ya, with 
good sea-bathing). All along this 
coast, the roar of the breakers is 
said never to cease during the six 
cold months of the year. Here the 
railway again turns inland. 

Matsuto is noted as the birth- 
place of the poetess Kaga-no-Chiyo. 

Kanazawa (Inn, Oura-ya; Eu- 
rop. resits., Kanaya-kwan in Nishi- 
cho; Asada) was the seat of the 
Maeda family, lords of the province 
of Kaga and richest of all the Dai- 
myos. It is now the capital of the 
prefecture of Ishikawa, which com- 
prises the provinces of Kaga and 
JNoto. It is clean and picturesque, 
and the hills above command a fine 
prospect. The castle grounds (no ad- 
mittance) have been utilised as the 
headquarters of a military division. 

To the r. of the castle, on another 
hill, is the beautiful pleasaunce of 
the former lords of the place, now 
open to the public and dotted with 
rest-houses. The name bestowed 
upon this park by the literati of an 
earlier age is well-deserved: — they 
called it Ken-roku-en, or "the Six- 
fold Garden," because possessing 
six excellences, viz. size, pleasing 
appearance, labour bestowed upon 
it, an air of antiquity, running 
water, and a charming view. 



The Industrial Museum (Haku- 
butsu-kwan), at the top of this park, 
merits a visit for the sake of the 
modern local porcelain, lacquer, etc., 
and more particularly for the collec- 
tion of antiquities, which includes 
masks, swords, armour, etc., belong- 
ing to the Maeda family, ancient 
religious bronze figures from Nara, 
etc., etc. Close to it is a monument, 
erected to the memory of the soldiers 
who fell fighting in the Satsuma 
Rebellion. This monument, which 
was erected in 1880, consists of a 
pile of large stones, whereon stands 
a hideous bronze figure of Yamato- 
take, over 18 ft. high. About 1 ri 
distant stands Nodayama, on the 
side of which are the tumuli of the 
old Daimyos of Kaga. The top this 
hill offers a fine view. Kanazawa 
is the best place at which to buy 
Kutani porcelain. Bronzes inlaid 
with gold and silver (zbgan), and 
fans are also produced here. 

Tsubata (Inn, Kitani-ya). 

[A branch line, 33J miles long, 
runs from Tsubata to Nanao, 
capital of the Province of Noto. 

This province, the Jutland of Japan, 
obtains its name from the word 
nottu, which means "peninsula" in 
the language of the former Aino 
aborigines. Noto is one of the wet- 
test parts of the empire. 

Nanao (Inns, Wajima-ya, 
Nozaki-ya) is a considerable 
town situated on the shores of 
a miniature inland sea, across 
which small steamers ply. 
The chief holiday resort in the 
neighbourhood is the mineral 
spring of Wakura (Inn, * Waka- 
zaki, with private baths), \ hr. 
by jinrikisha over a flat road. 
The hot water, which wells up 
on the shore, and is highly 
saline, is used for drinking as 
well as bathing purposes ; but 
it, and indeed the province of 
Noto generally,— low, sandy, 
and poor in artistic associa- 
tions—have little to interest 
the foreign visitor.] 



From Toyama to Naoetsa. 



391 



Takaoka (Inns, Keibo-r5 ; Kizu- 
ro), a flourishing place stretching 
for a mile or more along the road 
in a cotton- weaving and silkworm- 
breeding district, is noted for its 
hardware, also for a pretty kind of 
lacquer with subdued decoration. 
A branch line, 18 J m. long, runs 
from here due S. to Jo-ga-hana (see 
p. 270); another N. to Fushlki (Inn, 
Inoue), on the coast, distant 4J 
miles. The railway continues along 
the plain, with mountains to the r. 

Toyama {Inns, *Toyama Hotel, 
Takamatsu-kwan), on the Jinzu- 
gawa, is the capital of the prefecture 
of the same name and of the prov- 
ince of Etchu. The principal trade 
of the place consists in the manufac- 
ture of patent medicines. Toyama 
is a good starting-point for those 
who, approaching them from this 
side, wish to scale the peaks of 
Etchu and Hida, described in Eoute 
29. The highest mountains now 
seen to the r. are Tateyama (see p. 
289) and Tsurugi-dake ; but the most 
striking feature is supplied by the 
great rivers, or rather the great 
river-beds, particularly that of the 
Jogwanji, which are crossed on 
surprisingly long bridges. In June 
or July, and occasionally at other 
seasons, the waters descend in 
devastating force, sweeping away 
the rice-fields of the plain. The 
sea is reached soon before entering 
the town of Nameri-kawa, after 
which the whole stretch of the 
peninsula of Noto comes in view. 



The irregularly shaped inscribed 
monoliths on stone bases, seen so 
frequently in this province of 
Etchu, are monuments to departed 
worth. The fig-tree abounds all 
along this West Coast, bearing fruit 
in October. 

Uozu is a place of some size. 
The tidelessness of the Sea of 
Japan, the absence of sea- weed and 
sea smells will strike the traveller 
as strange. The Hayatsuki-gawa, 
the Kurobe-gawa, and Hime-gawa 
are spanned by very long bridges. 
But greater engineering difficulties 
than spanning these wide torrent 
beds had to be overcome where 
the line is found running through 
numerous tunnels, over high bridges 
and along narrow ledges cut out of 
the living rock. The station of 
Oya-shirazu recalls that portion of 
the old highway which was so 
perilous to pass that, as the name 
implies, the child forgot its parents 
and thought only of its own safety. 

After Itoi-gawa, the Island of 
Sado comes in view in the pale 
distance, looking at first like two 
islands as the low land between the 
northern and southern halves is 
not visible. Shortly after Nadachi 
there is a sudden change as the eye 
sweeps across the water to the range 
of which Yoneyama, close to the 
sea-shore, forms the highest point. 

Gochi. For the interesting 
temple at this place see p. 248. 

Naoetsu, p. 247. 



SECTION III. 

WESTERN JAPAN AND THE 
INLAND SEA. 

(Routes 4j — 5/. 



Route 47. — Ihe Inland Sea. 



395 



KOTJTE 47. 



The Inland Sea and the Chief 

Places on ob near its 

Northern Shore. 

1. general information. 2. the 
sanyo railway. 3. the inland 
sea by coasting steamer. 4. 
the inland sea by mail steamer. 
5. northern shore : ok a yam a, 
[shodo-shima], FUKUYAMA, TOMO- 
tsu, onomichi, mihara, take- 
hara, k.ure, hiroshima, miyajima, 
iwakuni, yanaitsu, mitajibi, 
yamaguchi, toyo-ura, shimo-no- 
seki, moji. 

1. — General Information. 

The Inland Sea is the name 
given to the water space lying 
between the Main Island on the 
north, and the islands of Shikoku 
and Kyushu on the south. It com- 
municates with the open sea by the 
Naruto passage and Aiashi Strait 
on the east, by the Bungo Channel 
between Shikoku and Kyushu, and 
by the Strait of Shimo-no-seki at 
the western end. It is about 240 
miles long from Akashi Strait to 
Shimo-no-seki, its greatest width 
(opposite the Bungo Channel) being 
about 40 m, while it narrows to 
8 m. where the province of Bizen 
approaches that of Sanuki in longi- 
tude 134°. The Japanese divide 
it into live open spaces or Nada, 
which, named from East to West, 
are as follows : — Harima Nada, 
Bingo Nada, Mishima Nada, Iyo 
Nada, and Suwo Nada. Harima 
Nada is divided from Bingo Nada 
by an archipelago of islands, rocks, 
and shoals, through which the 
passage for ships narrows in some 
places to a few hundred yards. 
Bingo Nada is divided from Mi- 
shima Nada, and the latter from 
Iyo Nada in the same manner, and 
here the channel is even narrower, 
notably at one place where there is 



only just room for two ships to 
pass abreast. 

The Inland Sea affords the most 
direct route from Kobe to Naga- 
saki and Shanghai. For vessels 
proceeding anywhere to the west- 
ward it offers a smooth water 
passage, by which the uncertain 
weather and stormy seas of the 
outer passage may be avoided. No 
doubt the intricacies of the chan- 
nels present some disadvantages 
to mariners ; but to the travel- 
ler the smoothness of the water, 
and the continuously varying and 
picturesque scenery, are an unfail- 
ing source of pleasure and comfort 
throughout its entire length. The 
larger islands are mountainous ; 
and although (differing in this 
from most parts of Japan) they 
lack timber, the effective contrast 
of light and shade gives colour to 
the background. The smaller 
islands are of every conceivable 
fantastic shape, some being mere 
rocks, which others attain to consid- 
erable height and size. Nearly all 
are inhabited by a half-farming, 
half -fishing population. The shores 
are lined with villages, the hillsides 
laid out in fields, and the waters 
studded with trading junks and 
fishing-boats. According to Japa- 
nese accounts, the total number of 
islands amounts to several thou- 
sands, though it is a puzzle to 
understand how they were ever 
counted. Another puzzle to the 
European visitor, to whom the In- 
land Sea has become a household 
word, is the fact that the Japanese 
themselves formerly possessed no 
corresponding name. The terms 
Seto no uchi (lit. " within the chan- 
nels ") and Nai-lcai, (" inner sea ") 
are the inventions of modern 
cartographers, intended to translate 
the English name. Neither have 
the Japanese poets ever raved over 
this lovely portion of their native 
country. Only Suma and Akashi 
at its eastern end seem to have 
arrested their attention. 

The fish and shell-fish of the 



396 



Route 47. — Tlxe Inland Sea. 



Inland Sea enjoy a great reputation 
with Japanese epicures. 



2. — The Sanyo Railway. 





Names 
of 


Remarks 


ft 


Stations 




Miles 


KOBE 




1 


Hyogo 




34 


Takatori 




6| 


Suma 


\ 


Shioya 


8| 


Tarumi 


• Seep. 305. 


9* 

12 


Maiko 


Akashi 


16 


Okubo 




20 


Tsuchiyama 




24| 


Kakogawa 




261 


Hoden 




28a 


Sone 




311 


Grochaku 


(Change for 


34 


HIMEJI Jet 


J Ban tan line. 


40$ 


Aboshi 


( See Rte. 49. 


44 


Tatsuno 




47 


Naba 




52 


Une 




55| 


Kamigori 




63$ 


Mitsuishi 




68 


Yoshinaga 




71 4 


Wake 




76| 


Mantomi 




79$ 


Seto 




84$ 
89 


Saidaiji 
OKAYAMA 


| Branch to 
( Tsuyama. 


931 


Niwase 


99 


Kurashiki 




104J 


Tamashima 




108* 


Konjin 




110^ 


Kamogata 




116$ 


Kasaoka 




120| 


Daimon 




125$ 


FUKUYAMA 




131| 


Matsunaga 




137| 


ONOMICHI 




143$ 


Itozaki 




145 


MIHARA 




1511 


Hongo 




159 


Kochi 




164$ 


Shiraichi 




170 


Saijo 




173| 


Hacbi-hon-matsu 




180$ 
185| 

189| 


Seno 

Kaidaichi 


( Branch to 
\ Kure. 


HIROSHIMA 


191$ 


Yokogawa 




1934 


Koi 




197j 


Itsuka-ichi 




199} 


Hatsuka-ichi 


( Station for 


2031 


Miyajima 


< island of 
(same name. 


209$ 


Kuba 





2121 


Otake 




215$ 


IWAKUNI 




220 


Fuju 




225 


Yu 




230| 


Kojiro 




231$ 


Obatake 




236 


YANAITSU 




240 


Tabuse 




2431 


Iwata 




246$ 


Shimata 




2531 


Kudamatsu 




2581 


TOKUYAMA 




262$ 


Fukugawa 




2701 
274! 


Tonomi 




MITAJIRI 




279$ 


Daido 




285! 


Ogori 




2881 


Kagawa 




291 


Achisu 




297$ 


Funaki 




303! 
307$ 
312! 


Onoda 

Asa 


( Branch to 
( Omine. 


Habu 


316$ 


Ozuki 




320$ 


Chofu 




323f 
326f 
3291 


Ichi-no-miya 




Hatabu 




SHIMO-NO-SEKI 





This line, skirting the northern 
shore of the Inland Sea, connects 
with the Kyushu Railway which 
starts from Moji on the opposite 
side of the Strait of Shimo-no-seki, 
and thus affords an interesting land 
route to Nagasaki. Comfortable 
steam ferry-boats across the narrow 
strait await the trains. 

The run from Kobe to Hiroshima 
by express takes 8 hrs.; from 
Hiroshima on to Shimo-no-seki, 5 J 
hrs. more. The first 40 min. through 
Suma, Maiko, and Akashi is 
delightful; but after that, the line 
leads for 130 m. over an agricultural 
plain or between low hills, partially 
clad with scrub pine and bushes. 
Not but what there is occasional 
change and variety; for instance, 
the pretty little river scene between 
"Wake and Mantomi, where the 
valley r. leads up to the important 
town of Tsuyama. At Kasaoka there 
is a refreshing peep of the sea, 
which again opens out, island- 
studded, for the 12 m. between 
Matsunaga and Mihara along the 
lovely strait of Onomichi. The 
passing glimpses of the castles of 
Himeji, Okayama, and especially 



Steamer Voyage. 



397 



Fukuyama, also afford some variety. 
But take it altogether, this section 
of the line is the least picturesque. 
From Mihara, whose station stands 
in the actual castle grounds, we 
plunge inland among the moun- 
tains, to reach an elevated plateau 
at Shiraichi, which is followed to 
Hachi-hon-matsu, whence down 
again through a very narrow valley 
to Kaidaichi and Hiroshima, near 
the coast. On the plateau, notice 
the local peculiarity of brown vitre- 
ous tiles, different from the grey- 
blue tiles of other parts of Japan. 

Far and away the most beautiful 
portion of the Sanyo line is that be- 
tween Hiroshima and Yanaitsu, — 
a run of nearly 50 m., during which, 
as the train ever and anon comes 
out on the coast, the eye feasts on 
islands, straits, and headlands, with 
the dark blue sea and the pale blue 
mountains of Shikoku in the dis- 
tance. Miyajima (see p. 404) should 
be specially noticed. The lofty 
island (2,000 ft.) further on, near 
Obatake, is called Oshima. After 
another plunge inland, the line 
comes out again on the rock- 
strewn and pine-clad shore at 
Kudamatsu, and at Tokuyama. 
Then over rice-fields and through 
cuttings, the peeps of the sea be- 
coming more frequent and charm- 
ing as one nears Mitajiri. Here 
we once more bend inland, 
entering a district devoted to rice 
cultivation in a frame of pine-clad 
hills with many sandy patches. 
One or two glimpses of the sea and 
of the Kyushu hills beyond are 
caught before entering Shimonoseki 
station. 

For notices of the chief towns 
passed through, — their sights and 
their inns, — see pp. 401-8. 



3. — The Inland Sea by 
Coasting Steamee. 

Delightful as are some of the 
views which the Sanyo Railway 
journey affords of the Inland Sea, 



the charms of the latter can be 
infinitely better appreciated from 
shipboard. Those whom a general 
glance at the scenery contents, or 
to whom first-rate accommodation 
is a sine qua non, will do best to 
take passage from Kobe to Naga- 
saki in one of the mail steamers. 
The course usually followed, and the 
chief points passed, are described 
in the following section. Persons 
tolerant of less good accommoda- 
tion, and desirous to see the Inland 
Sea and its shores more thoroughly, 
can choose between the coasting 
steamers of various companies. Of 
these the largest is the Osaka Shosen 
Kwaisha, which owns some good 
vessels, making daily runs, with 
first class (jbto) and "extra first 
class" (tokuhetsu) accommodation. 
The steamers call at the ports men- 
tioned below and at many places 
outside the limits of the Inland Sea, 
such as Uwajima and Kochi in 
Shikoku ; Hagi, Hamada, EsaH, and 
Sakai on the Sea of Japan ; Beppu, 
Oita, Hakata, and Kagoshima in 
Kyushu ; Iki, Tsushima, and Fusan. 
The starting point of some of these 
steamers is Osaka, but most call in 
at Hy5go. The times of the actual 
runs between each of the following 
ports by the larger steamers of the 
Osaka Shosen Kwaisha are stated as 
follows : — 

Osaka to : — 

Kobe 1 hour. 

Takamatsu 5| „ 

Tadotsu If „ 

Tomotsu If „ 

Onomichi 1 „ 

Take-hara 1J „ 

Setojima 1J „ 

Kure J „ 

Ujina (Hiroshima)... 1 „ 

Miyajima £ „ 

Iwakuni f „ 

Kuga (in Oshima) ...l| „ 

Yanaitsu £ „ 

Tokuyama 3£ ,, 

Mitajiri 1 „ 

Moji 3J „ 



398 



Route 47. — The Inland Sea. 



Except on a few of the largest 
steamers, the arrangements are 
quite Japanese. Only those, there- 
fore, who have had some experience 
of the country and its customs are 
advised to embark on a lengthy 
tour by this means. The native 
cuisine is generally good of its 
kind; but the meals are often 
served at startling hours. The best 
boats provide European fare. 

The ideal way of seeing the 
Inland Sea would be to have one's 
own yacht; next best to this, it 
might be possible to hire native 
craft. Omnibus row-boats touch 
at many points not visited even by 
the smallest steamers ; but foreign- 
ers will do best to engage a whole 
boat for themselves. During the 
long days of spring and summer, 
one of the prettiest portions of 
the Inland Sea may be compressed 
into a brief space of time by 
taking rail from Kdbe to Onomichi 
(5 J- hrs.), whence next morning by 
steamer via Takehara, Ondo, Kure, 
and Ujina to the island of Miya- 
jima, which is reached in daylight ; 
next day back to Kobe by train 
from Miyajima station on the 
mainland, or else proceed west- 
ward, also by train. 

4. — Voyage down the Inland Sea 

by Japan Mail Steamship 

Company's Steameb. 

In describing this steamer route, 
our remarks will be confined to the 
points which are immediate to the 
track. 

Soon after leaving the anchorage 
at Kobe, Wada Point is rounded, 
the ship is steered close along the 
land for Akashi Strait, and at about 
1 hr.* is close off the lighthouse 
on the 1.. with the town of Akashi 
on the r. After passing through 



*The expressions at 1 hr., at 2 hrs., etc., 
in the description of this voyage, signify, 
when the steamer has been 1 hour out 
of Kobe, 2 hours out of Kobe etc., taking 
12 knots per hour as the average speed. 



the straits, the track edges a little to 
the south to clear a dangerous shoal 
on the r., and crosses the Harima 
Nada. The ship is now fairly with- 
in the Inland Sea, with the large 
islands of Awaji and Shikoku on 
the 1. and the first group of lesser 
islands ahead. (For description of 
Awaji, see Koute" 48; for Shikoku 
see Routes 52-56.) 

At 4 hrs. we enter the first of 
the intricate passages. The large 
island on the r. is Shodo-shima 
(see p. 410), with a rocky, indented 
shore' and well-cultivated slopes. 
The course leads within a mile of 
its southern extremity, the coast of 
Shikoku being about 3 m. to the 1. 
From here the ship turns a little 
to the north, and soon after, the 
castle town of Takamatsu opens 
out on the L, at the head of a deep 
bay. At 5 hrs. Ogishima, with high 
cliffs descending straight into 15 
fathoms of water, is passed within 
a stone's throw on the left. Taka- 
matsu castle here stands out finely. 
Oki and Teshima on the r. both 
produce copper ore, and the surface 
workings may be observed in pas- 
sing. From Ogishima, very careful 
piloting is necessary to carry the 
ship safely amongst the numerous 
shoals and islets that line both 
sides of the track. At 6 hrs. the 
lighthouse on the S.E. end of Nabe- 
shima (an islet separated by a nar- 
row strait from Yoshima) is passed. 
Opposite are some curious isolated 
rocks dotted with characteristic 
pine-trees. The castle towns of Sa- 
kaide and Marugame will be visible 
on the 1. At this point the situa- 
tion is particularly interesting: — 
the ship is completely landlocked, 
and to the uninitiated there appears 
to be no way between the rocks 
and islets with which the sea is 
studded. The ship swings round 
point after point, passing villages 
near enough to watch the doings of 
their inhabitants, and threatening 
to swamp some fishing-boat at every 
turn. Through all these narrows 
the tides rush with a velocity of 



Steamer Voyage. 



399 



from 4 to 6 knots, adding greatly 
to the difficulty of navigation. At 
times the vessel can hardly stem 
the rash of water, and heels from 
side to side as it catches her on 
either bow. 

After Nabeshima, Ushijima is 
passed on the 1., and at 7 hrs. the 
ship will be abreast of Takami- 
shima, lofty, with a chimp of pines 
hiding a temple on the summit. 
Takami is peculiar from the , fact 
that its N. end is higher than its S., 
most Japanese islands being the 
contrary. The shore ofj Shikoku 
now projects as a long promontory, 
forming the eastern boundary of the 
Bingo Nada. In the bight to the 1. 
is the trefoil-shaped island of Awa- 
shima, whose northern extremity is 
passed within a stone's throw. The 
glasses will give a good view of 
Tadotsu, formerly the residence of 
a Daimyo, bearing south. If Ushi- 
jima is passed on the north side, 
the bare hillsides of Hiroshima and 
Shiaku-jima (Honsha) will be close 
on the r., and a rock with a lighted 
beacon only 10 ft. above water on 
the 1. At 7J hrs. the first narrows 
are cleared, and the ship enters the 
Bingo Nada. 

From this point there are two 
routes leading through the archi- 
pelago that separates the Bingo 
Nada from the Mishima Xada, — 
one to the north, passing north of 
the island and having the shore 
of the mainland on the r., one 
to the southward of the islands, 
having the shore of Shikoku on the 
1. The Northern Passage, which 
is by far the more interesting of the 
two, is longer by 8 m. ; and for 
2 hrs. the ship winds in and out 
of extremely intricate channels, 
which at the widest are not more 
than 2 m. across, and in some 
places not more than 1,500 ft. 
The channel is entered at 8 J hrs., 
passing close to the south of Yoko- 
shima. Then the track turns to 
the north, between In-no-shima, 
a large island 1,250 ft. high on the 
1., and Mukai-jima on the r., where 



the channel is just 100 yds. across. 
In-no-shima has two dry docks, 
excavated in the solid rock. The 
channel opens out a little off 
Mihara, a castle town of some im- 
portance, which is seen on the r. at 
about 9 hrs. Thence the track 
turns to the southward, and narrows 
again. At 10J hrs. the ship is off 
Osaki-shima r., with a small rocky 
islet on the L, and shortly after the 
track joins that of the southern route. 
If the Southern Passage be taken, 
the ship passes between two high 
islands with bare precipitous sides, 
at 8J hrs. Next the town of Ima- 
bari on the coast of Shikoku comes 
in sight ahead, and a small group 
of rocky islets is passed 1., one of 
which, Shikican-jima, has copper 
refining works whose smoke injures 
cultivation in the whole neighbour- 
hood. At about 10 hrs. the track 
turns sharp to the northward, be- 
tween Oshima on the r., and Shi- 
koku on the L These narrows are 
particularly interesting, especially 
if the tide happens to be running 
strongly in the opposite direction. 
At the narrowest part, less than 100 
yds. wide, the vessel swerves from 
side to side. ■ Hard-a-port ! ' and 
* Hard-a-starboard ! ' are the con- 
tinual cries. If the vessel has not 
sufficient speed, she may be turned 
right round. Indeed, one steaming 
even 10 knots has been known to 
be obliged to go back and wait for 
a fair tide, and large swirls have 
sometimes been observed measur- 
ing 6 ft. across and 10 ft. deep. 
After two or three miles in a 
northerly direction, the track turns 
to the westward. Here the ship is 
again completely landlocked, the 
mountainous islands of Oshima 
and Omi-shima on the r., Shikoku 
on the 1., and Osaki-shima ahead 
closing in the prospect on all sides. 
But after passing the extreme 
northern point of the province of 
Iyo, with its white outlying rocks, 
the view opens out, and at 11 hrs. 
the track by the northern passage 
is joined. 



400 



Route 47. — The Inland Sea. 



The course now turns southward 
again along the shore of Shikoku, 
where the mountain ranges are 
well-wooded, and the highest peaks 
are tipped with snow as early as 
December. At 12 hrs., the coast of 
Shikoku is again approached within 
2 m. A little later, the ship 
threads her way through another 
narrow passage between Gogoshima 
on the 1. with a white light, and 
Mutsuki and Nakashima on the 
right. Just behind Gogoshima 
lies Takahama, one of the chief 
ports of the province of Iyo. Mu- 
tsuki is passed close enough to dis- 
tinguish the workings from which 
the material for manufacturing 
porcelain is obtained. Leaving 
Gogoshima behind, another small 
island comes in sight. Then the 
ship is fairly in the Iyo Nada, and 
at 13 hrs. is nearly up to Yuri- 
shima, a curious double island 
consisting of two hills, respectively 
400 ft. and 200 ft. high, joined by 
a narrow sand-bank. This island 
may be passed on either side. 
Eight miles beyond it is another 
steep island, and at 14 \ hrs. the 
ship passes quite close to Yashima, 
500 ft. high. At this point the 
Bungo Channel opens to the south- 
ward, and the track turns a little to 
the north, passing Uwashima at 
some distance and Himejima within 
a few miles. From here the track 
lies through the Suwo Nada, mid- 
way between Kyushu and the 
mainland, and, being unrelieved 
by smaller islands, possesses no 
features of special interest. At 18 
hrs., a red buoy marking the edge 
of the Motoyama spit is passed on 
the r., and the track turns north 
for Shimo-no-seki. Here the land 
draws together on both sides, form- 
ing the Straits of Shimo-no-seki, 
which vary from 4 m. to 1 m. in 
width, and are further narrowed by 
numerous shoals and sand-banks. 
At 19 hrs. the ship rounds Isaki on 
the 1., and threads her way through 
the shallows past the town of 
Shimo-no-seki r., with Moji 1. The 



steamer track skirts the flat shore, 
winds round the south of Hiko- 
shima, turns to the north-west, and 
then due north towards the island 
of Eokuren. This is known to pilots 
as the " south passage." There are 
two others, — a middle one, safe 
only for quite small steamers, and 
a northern, the deepest of all, 
which the "Empress" boats take. 
The whole channel is well-lighted 
and marked; but the strong tides 
which rush through, render it even 
more difficult to navigate safely 
than any other part of the Inland 
Sea. Some of the Nippon Yusen 
Kwaisha steamers stop off Shimo- 
no-seki for an hour or so, to land 
mails, etc. Not counting this stop- 
page, the ship will be off Bokuren, 
and fairly through the Inland Sea, 
at 20 hrs. 

As almost all travellers go on to 
Nagasaki, the description of the 
route is continued on to that port. 

From Eokuren the track turns 
west, close past Shiroshima; then 
gradually south. At 22 hrs. the 
ship is about 1 m. off Koshime-no- 
Oshima (Wilson's Island). The 
coast of Kyushu (see Ete. 60) now 
extends southward on the 1. — bold, 
rugged, and deeply indented, 
with numerous harbours, outlying 
islands, and a background of lofty 
mountains. At 24 hrs. the desolate 
rocky islet of Eboshi-jima (Hat 
Island), with its lighthouse, is close 
at hand, due south of which, on the 
shores of a deep bay, lie the coal- 
fields of Karatsu, and the district 
where the celebrated Hizen porce- 
lain is manufactured. Eight miles 
away on the r. is the large island 
of Dd, with several small rocky 
islets nearer in the same direction. 

Iki is mostly table-land, from 500 to 700 
ft. high, with scant timber and poor soil. 
The chief village is Go-no-ura on the S. W. 
side, possessing a a fair anchorage. Small 
steamers ply between this place and 
Yobuko in Hizen, where the Japan-Korea 
cable is landed.— It was to the N. of this 
island that, on the 27th May, 1905, Admi- 
ral Togo met and annihilated the Russian 
fleet, thus deciding the issue of the war. 



Steamer Voyage. 



401 



From Eboshi-jima the track turns 
gradually to the south, passing 
Kagara-shima and Madara-shima. 
At 28 hrs. the N.E. end of Hirado 
(see Rte 59) is close at hand, and 
Ddshima 1 m. on the 1. Hirado is 
17£ m. long, narrow and hilly, 
trending N.N.E. and S.S.W., the 
highest point being 1,792 ft. It is 
separated from Kyushu by a narrow 
channel of J m., which is in effect 
narrowed to a few yards by rocks, 
and is called Spex Straits. Steamers 
sometimes take this course, if tide 
and weather are perfectly favoura- 
ble ; but generally they keep along 
the W. shore of Hirado, and pass 
between it and Ikutsuki-shima by 
what is known to seamen as the 
Obree Channel, only 2 cables wide. 
Nakano-shima, an islet rising 
straight out of the water off the S.W. 
end of Hirado, is closely skirted, and 
the course changed to S.E. at 29^ hrs. 
Ho-age (Sail Bock) is 1 m. on the 
1., and the whole group of the 
Goto Islands (see Route 68) in 
the distance on the r. Shortly 
after Ho-age, and on the same side 
is seen a beacon painted red and 
white, to mark a dangerous sunken 
rock. At 30 hrs. the islets of Odate 
and Kodate are on the r., and 
Mitoko on the 1. Off the south- 
east of the latter is a small flat islet 
with pine-trees. A little south 
again on the mainland of Kyushu, 
is a remarkable conical hill, with 
a clump of trees on the summit, 
closely resembling a field-officer's 
cocked hat and plume. Next we 
pass ^latsushima, which is of 
considerable size and partly 
covered with pine-trees, whence 
its name. It is terraced for cultiva- 
tion to the very summit, and has 
a village half-way up its slope. 
This point passed, the track takes 
a sharp turn to the S. and back to 
S.E., leaving Ikeshima and Hiki- 
shima on the r. One mile further 
on, a good view is obtained of a 
remarkable arched rock standing 
straight up out of the water to the 
N.W. From here Iwoshima lies 



straight ahead, with the lighthouse 
just visible. To the r. of the 
light house is Takashima, noted for 
its coal-mines. At 31 hrs. the ship 
is midway between Iwoshima and 
the mainland, and soon after 
enters a cluster of islets off the 
mouth of Nagasaki harbour. 
Rounding Pappenberg, the ship 
turns sharp to the 1. into the 
harbour, and at 32 hrs. is generally 
at anchor. 

The chief distances of the run 
through the Inland Sea from Kobe 
to Nagasaki, as taken by the 
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha steamers, 
are as follows : — 

KOBE to:— Miles 

Hyogo Point 2 

Akashi Straits 12 

Nabeshima 73 

Ushijima 75 J 

Nakashima 143 

Yurishima 154 

Yashima 175 

Himejima 198 

SHIMO-NO-SEKI 239 

Rokuren 248 

Shiroshima ._. 257 

Koshime-no-Oshima .275 

Eboshi-jima 300 

Obree Channel ,334 

Naka-no-shima 346 

Arched Rock 371 

NAGASAKI 387 



5. — Places of Interest on and 

near the northern shore 

of the Inland Sea. 

Hinieji (see p. 306). 

Okayama (Inns, *Miyoshino, 
near railway station ; Jiyusha), 
capital of the prefecture of the 
same name and of the province of 
Bizen, lies 2 J ri inland from its 
port, Samban ( Inn, Yama-cho), along 
an excellent jinrikisha road. No 
portion of this coast shows more 
clearly the rapid encroachment of 
the land on the sea ; quite recently 
part of the large bay of Kojima was 
drained. The former Daimyo's 



402 



Route 47. — The Inland Sea. 



Castle is now utilised as a school. 
The Koraku-en Garden (15 min. 
from station), celebrated throughout 
Japan, deserves its reputation, — not 
being a semi-Europeanised bit of 
formalism and bad taste, like the 
" public gardens " of so many mod- 
ern Japanese cities, but the spacious 
and charming pleasaunce of the 
lords of the castle close to which it 
lies. There are bridges, hills, lakes, 
cherry-trees, plum-trees, wistarias, 
maples, palmettos, and a few tame 
cranes, one of which is believed to 
be over two hundred years old ; 
also summer-houses, which may be 
hired of the custodian for those 
picnic parties in which the Japanese 
take such delight. — The Okayama 
Orphanage, the largest in Japan, 
accommodates 1,200 children. — 
Fancy matting (hana-mushiro) is a 
local speciality. 

[Shodo-shima, the most con- 
siderable island in the Inland 
Sea, lies 2§ hrs. by steam 
launch from Uno near Oka- 
yama ; 1 hr. by steamer from 
Takamatsu in Shikoku, — lovely 
scenery throughout the passage. 
Boats twice daily both ways, also 
connecting with Kobe, Osaka, 
and Tadotsu. The two chief 
towns, Tonosho and Fuchizaki 
are separated only by a bridge 
over some salt-pans, where the 
sea till recent years divided the 
island into two unequal parts. 
Visitors will best consult their 
convenience by staying at the 
steamer agency (funa-donya) 
at the landing-place. — Large 
supplies of granite come from 
the pine-clad mountains of 
this picturesque island, whose 
lower slopes are admirably 
cultivated. The chief quarries 
are on the north coast. A 
delightful day's excursion, 
partly by jinrikisha, partly on 
foot, may be made to the rocks 
of Kankake, a sort of Haruna- 
san (p. 182) on a larger scale, 
with the addition of a glorious 



view seawards. It is best at the 
time of the autumn tints. The 
waterfall of Nishi-no-taM, in 
the same direction, is preferably 
taken as a separate walk. The 
cave of Benten at Gotd, near 
the S.W. extremity of the is- 
land, is another local curiosity, 
and ranks among the Eighty- 
eight Holy Places of Shodo- 
shima. Hachiman, the god of 
war, is specially revered by the 
islanders. A hill just outside 
Tonosho, on which stands one 
of his many temples, is partly 
cut away in tiers, whence 
crowds witness the great annual 
festival on the 15th day of the 
8th moon, old style.] 

Fukuyama (Inn, Kurisada, capi- 
tal of the province of Bingo, was the 
seat of a Daimy5 whose castle, in an 
unusually good state of preserva- 
tion, is well seen from the rail- 
way. No permit being required, 
travellers might stop over a train 
to visit it. The temple of Myb-o- 
in possesses some art treasures. 
This province produces the upper 
covering or outside layer (Bingo- 
omote) of the ordinary house mats 
which are used all over Japan. 
Whole fields planted with the rushes 
for making them are passed. 

Tomotsu (Inn, Maru-tsune), 

So called, it is said, because the Empress 
Jingo, landing there after her Korean ex- 
pedition, presented the tomo, or leathern 
wrist-guard, of her bow to the god of that 
port (tsu). 

2 J ri S. of Fukuyama by a good 
but malodorous jinrikisha road, has 
a small harbour protected by piers, 
and manufactures anchors for the 
whole Inland Sea district, as well 
as nine kinds of liqueur, — one 
flavoured with plum-blossoms, an- 
other with chrysanthemums, a third 
effectual in warding off old age, etc., 
etc. There are some fine temples, 
and the surrounding scenery is 
delightful. Half-a-day may be well 
spent in going by boat westward 



Onomichi to Hiroshima. 



403 



along the cliff-bound coast to 
the little shrine of Kwannon at 
Ahuto, perched on a rock that juts 
into the sea, and back via Sensui- 
jima, where there is sea-bathing. — 
Curious cars of straw surmount- 
ed by the foi-fish, lobster, and bam- 
boo are carried round the town on 
certain festival days and then 
burnt. 

Onomiclii {Inns, *Hamaldchi, 
Kakusui-kwan) has unusually plen- 
tiful steam communication, and is 
a prosperous, bustling place, 
stretching along the shore of a long 
narrow strait which looks like a 
winding river. The shore is lined 
with godowns. Onomichi is a city 
of narrow lanes and of fine, though 
decaying temples, of which the two 
best are Senkoji and Saikokuji. 
Long nights of steps lead up to the 
former, which stands near the top 
of a very steep hill. Huge granite 
blocks jut out from the soil, helping 
to form a picture at once weird and 
beautiful. The view also is fine, a 
prominent feature being the island 
of Mukai-jima, or Shichi-ri-ga-shi- 
ma, plastered up — if one may use 
such a term — against the mainland, 
and thus forming the river-like 
harbour. Saikokuji, a branch of the 
great monastery of Koya-san, is very 
stately with its big stone walls, the 
temple architecture of all this dis- 
trict deriving powerful aid from 
the granite of the shores of the 
Inland Sea. 

Mihara (Inn, Go-un-ro) posses- 
ses the remains of a Daimyo's 
castle. From here westward, the 
northern shore of the Inland Sea 
forms a striking contrast to the 
wooded and smiling coasts of Shi- 
koku and Kyushu that lie opposite. 
It is arid and infertile, and the hills 
have great bare patches like a 
beggar's skin showing through his 
tatters. 

Takehara (Inn, Fukui) is a 
pretty harbour lying amidst high 
hills. The houses stand on the 
beach. Here the scholar Kai Sanyo 



(ses p. 82) was born. The coasting 
steamers pass through the extreme- 
ly narrow Strait of Ondo, in the 
middle of which stands a large 
lantern on a stone base, and then 
reach 

According to legend, the passage had 
become blocked up by the hills falling in 
on either side. So Kiyomori (see p. 76) 
cut it afresh ; but as day was waning, he 
commanded the sun to stand still, which 
it did till the completion of the work, 
But the sun revenged itself for this insult 
by the proud tyrant's death, and this is 
his funeral pile standing in the waves. 

Kure (Inns, Miyoshi, in Washo- 
machi ; Horaisha, at the actual 
port, 25 cho distant), an important 
and continually growing naval 
station, snugly situated at the base 
of cultivated hills. A branch line 
connects it with Kaidaichi on the 
Sanyo Eailway in about 1 hr. No 
admission to the arsenal without 
permit from the Ministry of Marine. 
One and a half ri distant lies the 
island of Eta-jima, where stands 
the Imperial Naval College, an ad- 
mirably conducted institution for 
the training of cadets. 

Hiroshima (Inns, Mizoguchi 
Hotel, Europ. food; *Naganuma, 
semi-Europ., with branch at sta- 
tion) capital of the province of 
Aki and seat of a prefecture, stands 
at the mouth of the Otagawa, in a 
fine position protected by hills from 
the northern blasts. 

Before the establishment of the Sho- 
gunate in the 12th century, Hiroshima 
belonged to Kiyomori, the powerful and 
unscrupulous head of the Taira family. 
At the beginning of the 17th century, 
the fief passed into the hands of the Asano 
family, who retained it till the mediatiea- 
tion of the Daimyos in 1871. The Asanos 
were often spoken of as the Princes of 
Geishu, Geishu or Aki being the name 
of the province in which Hiroshima lies. 
During great part of the Chioa-Japan 
war of 1894-5, the late Emperor took up his 
residence in the castle of Hiroshima, in 
order, as it would seem, to be nearer 
the scene of action. Again, during the 
Russian war of 1904-5, Hiroshima was a 
great centre of military activity, both 
for the embarcation of troops and the 
treatment of the wounded. 



404 



Route 47. — The Inland Sea. 



The approach to Hiroshima by 
sea is noted for its beauty. The 
little port of Ujina, distant 3J m., 
is connected with the city by 
railway. Hiroshima is a brisk and 
busy place, the most important 
city west of Kobe. It is a centre 
for dealers in lacquer, bronze, 
and most other kinds of artistic 
work. The oysters of the neigh- 
bouring sea enjoy much favour. 

The sights of Hiroshima can 
be done by jinrikisha in 2 or 3 hrs. 
The prettiest is the landscape 
garden of the Asano family, called 
Sentei, 12 cho from the station. 
Excepting the five-storied keep 
(tenshu), little now remains of the 
old Castle (no admission) except the 
space which it and its dependent 
buildings once occupied. Parts 
of this very extensive area are 
now used as parade grounds for the 
garrison. Close to the castle, and 
only 8 cho from the station, lies 
the Park (Koen), which affords 
a place of recreation to the citi- 
zens. It contains some temples 
called Nigi-tsu-Jinja, dedicated to 
the ancestors of the Asano family, 
whose crest of two hawks' feath- 
ers crossed is commemorated, 
not only on the lanterns and other 
surrounding objects, but in the 
name of Futa-ba-yama, the hill 
rising immediately behind. Some 
fine tea-houses stand on it, 5 cho 
below the top, which affords a beau- 
tiful view. In the plain beneath 
lies Hiroshima,_intersected by the 
five arms of the Otagawa ; to the 1. is 
the sea ; to the r. rises a conical- 
shaped hill called Aki- no-Fuji, 
and further to the r. Hiji-yama ; 
in front is the long road running 
down towards the pine-clad islet 
in the harbour ; beyond all spreads 
the sea, glittering amidst rocky 
islands, chief of which is Miyajima 
with its feathery peaks; on the 
dim horizon loom the Suwd hills. 
The annual festival at Nigi-tsu- 
Jinja is held on the 15th day of 
the 9th moon, old style. 

Miyajima (Inns, *Mikado Hotel, 



Iwaso, and many others). The 
usual way of visiting this lovely 
island is to take train to Miyajima 
station on the Sanyo line, 1 hr. 
west of Hiroshima, whence steam 
ferry in \ hr. Ferry close to station. 
Should the train hours from Hiro- 
shima not suit, one may go by 
excellent jinrikisha road with de- 
lightful scenery all the way, 4| ri 
(11 m.), to Ajina (do not confound 
this with Ujina, the port of Hiro- 
shima). Here there is another 
slightly longer ferry, say 40 min. 
by row-boat. The objective point 
in either case is the vill. that has 
grown up around the temple. 

Miyajima can also be reached by 
fair Osaka Shosen Kwaisha steamers 
providing European food, which 
leave Kobe every evening, arriving 
in the afternoon of the following 
day. The return to Kobe is best 
made by train, the steamer hours 
being inconvenient. 

Miyajima, also called Itsuku- 
shima, is a sacred island, and one 
of the San-kei, or " Three Chief 
Sights," of Japan in native es- 
timation. It rises to a height of 
about 1,800 ft., and is very rocky 
and thickly wooded. Many small, 
but lovely, valleys trend down to 
the sea ; and in these, among 
groves of maple-trees, nestle the 
inns and tea-houses for pilgrims 
and the dwellings of the fishermen 
and image-carvers, who, with the 
priests and innkeepers, make up a 
population of some three thousand. 
Miyajima is a charming summer 
resort, the temperature being never 
unbearably high, the sea and fresh- 
water bathing excellent, and the 
walks numerous. The abundance 
of conifers, the disintegrated gra- 
nite soil, and the total absence 
of agriculture, combine to keep the 
air singularly pure and the water 
limpid. A number of deer still 
linger on the island, and feed out of 
the hands of passers-by. 

Miyajima is dedicated to three Shinto 
goddesses, daughters of Susa-no-o, from 
the eldest of \yhom, named Ichiki-shimar 



Miyajima. 



405 



Hime Or Itsukushinia-Hirne, the alter- 
native name of the island is derived. 
According to tradition, the first erection 
of a temple on the present site dates 
from the reign of the Empress Suiko 
(A.D. 593-628); but jail the early archives 



of Miyajima were lost in a great fire which 
occurred in 1548, and nothing certain can 
be learnt from other sources regarding 
its vicissitudes before the 12th century. 
At that time Kiyomori, who practically 
ruled the empire, restored it in such style 




as to gain for it the reputation of the 
most magnificent structure in Western 
Japan. Several Mikados, the Ashikaga 
Shoguns, and the great Daimyos of Gei- 
shu, Choshu, and other neighbouring 
fiefs were counted among the bene- 
factors of the place and worshippers at 
the shrine. Here, as elsewhere, the Bud- 
dhist priests were compelled to withdraw 
on the " purification " of the Eyobu 
Shinto shrines in 1871, when several of 
the buildings were pulled down. Some 
others were accidentally burnt in 1887, 
but the rest are now sufficiently cared 
for and others in course of reconstruction. 
An ancient religions rule forbade all 
births and deaths on the island. Should 
a birth unexpectedly take place, it is still 
usual to send the woman aw r ay to the 
mainland for thirty days; and though 
patients in extremis are no longer re- 
moved, all corpses are at once sent across 
the strait for interment at the village of 
Ono, where likewise the chief mourners 
remain during fifty days for ceremonial 
purification. No dogs are allowed on the 
island. 



Route 47. —The Inland Sea. 



The temple of Miyajima enjoys 
great celebrity. The torii in front 
of it, which stands in the sea, is a 
favourite motive of Japanese art ; 
and the temple itself, being partly 
built out over the sea on piles, ap- 
pears at high tide to float upon the 
surface of the water. This effect is 
of course marred when the tide 
goes out. A characteristic feature 
of the temple is its gallery (kwairb) 
648 ft. long, hung with ex-votos. 
Many of these are old pictures by 
famous artists ; but even so sacred 
a shrine as Miyajima has not 
altogether escaped modernisation, 
as is attested, inter alia, by hideous 
daubs in oil of the China War. 
The annual festival is celebrated 
on the 17 th day of the 6th moon, 
old style. By payment of a few 
yen one may get all the temple 
lanterns lighted, producing a very 
pretty effect, which should be 
viewed from the water. The new 
buildings behind contain various art 
treasures. 

The great unpainted Hall of a 
Thousand Mats (Sen-jb-jiki), stand- 
ing on an eminence to the r. of the 
temple on leaving, is said to have 
been built by Hideyoshi out of the 
wood of a single camphor-tree. In 
any case, it served as his council 
chamber on the occasion of the 
great expedition against Korea at 
the end of the sixteenth century. 
Soldiers were again quartered there 
in 1894 on the way to conquer 
(meshi-toru) China, and some of 
them punningly hung up on the 
pillars some ladles of the sort com- 
monly used for serving rice (meshi 
torn). The fashion spread even 
among civilians, who follow it for 
luck, till now the place wears the 
most singular and uncomely aspect, 
through being plastered all over with 
ladles up to the very ceiling. Close 
to the Thousand Mat Hall stands 
a five-storied pagoda. A huge stone 
torii, dating from 1906, stands on 
the shore. 

Those with time on hand may 
climb up 24 chb to the Oku-no-in, at 



the top of one of the chief peaks 
(2 hrs. will suffice). But no longer 
are any great religious buildings 
left there, nor is the sacred fire 
which was lighted by Kobo Daishi 
and has never since been suffered 
to go out, maintained nowadays 
with any pomp. Like several 
other places in Japan, Miyajima has 
its " seven wonders " (nana-fushigi), 
mostly insignificant. 

Shin-minato (Inn, Fukuoka) is 
the port for Iwakuni, from which 
it is 1 ri 26 chb (4 \ m.) distant by 
an excellent jinrikisha road. 

Iwakuni (Inns, Shirai, at sta- 
tion ; *.Kome-hei, in the town) is a 
bustling place, formerly the castle 
town of a Daimyo named Kikkawa. 
Where his castle stood, there is 
now a temple dedicated to Kat5 
Kiyomasa and a park adorned with 
splendid trees of many species. 
The railway station lies incon- 
venientlv distant at the vilL of 
Muronoki, about 40 min. by jin- 
rikisha. Iwakuni is noted for its 
manufactures of silk, paper, cotton, 
mats, and mosquito-netting. The 
great bridge called Kintai-kyb, lit. 
" bridge of the damask girdle," 
spanning the Nishiki-gawa, is 
famed throughout the length and 
breadth of Japan. It is built in 
five arches, measures about 150 
yds. in length, and some of the 
stones in the piers are bound 
together with lead. The former 
custom was to repair thoroughly 
one of the arches every five years, 
so that once in twenty-five years 
the whole structure was renewed. 
Figs of excellent quality abound in 
this neighbourhood. 

A long stretch of coast south of 
Iwakuni towards Obatake and 
Yanai has been dyked, in order to 
carry both the excellent highway 
and the railway. 

Yanai (Inn, Byd-ha-kwan), often 
called Yanai-tsu, that is, the " port 
of Yanai," is admirably protected, 
the town lying on the S.W. slope of 
Kotoishi-yama (2,190 ft. high), and 



Tokuyama to Shimo-no-seki. 



40? 



Commanding glorious views_ of the 
large and lofty island of Oshima. 
The railway has barely room to 
pass between this mountain and 
the sea. 
Tokuyama (Inn, Matsumasa). 

Mitajiri (Inn, Ishida near sta- 
tion) lies 18 cho from its port, — a 
port lovely to the eye with its lines 
of hills and the smoke lazily rising 
from its salt-pans, but not very 
good for steamers. — A capital jin- 
rikisha road leads inland from 
Mitajiri to the busy town of 

Miyaichi (Inn, Fujimura), 31 
cho, which boasts a Temple of Ten- 
jin, famous throughout the whole 
country-side, and having grounds 
prettily laid out on a hill. 

Yamaguchi (Inn, Nakamura), 
capital of the prefecture of the same 
name and of the province of Suwo, 
is most conveniently reached from 
Ogori station, 3 ri 1 cho by steam 
tramway in 1 hr. The hot springs 
of Yuda (Inn, Matsuda, Europ. food), 
in the S.W. suburb of the town, 
possess local fame. Tfithin a radius 
of 1 ri from Yamaguchi are several 
pretty waterfalls. The prefecture is 
also noted for its huge caves in the 
limestone range in and^ near the 
vill. of Akiyoshi, (Inn, Omiya), 16 
m. W. of Yamaguchi. The largest, 
Taki-no-ana, is of unknown length. 
Guides take the visitor half-a-mile 
inside the cave, which is full of 
stalactites and basin formations. 
Some neighbouring dolmens, too, 
may interest the professed archae- 
ologist. 

Yamaguchi was an important Christian 
centre during the latter half of the 16th 
century, the mission there having been 
founded by St. Francis Xavier himself. 
(See Sir Ernest Satow's elaborate paper 
on the " Vicissitudes of the Church at 
Yamaguchi from 1550 to 1586," in Vol. 
VII. of the Transactions of the Asiatic So- 
ciety of Japan.) More recently the noble 
house of Choshu, which had its seat here, 
became a very powerful factor in Japa- 
nese politics. Since the Revolution of 
1868, the samurai of Choshu have divided 
with those of Satsuma the chief direction 
of public affairs. 



From Asa, a short branch line of 
railway leads to Omine, where a 
large mine of smokeless coal is 
worked. 

At Chofu, sometimes called 
Toyo-ura (Inn, Hayashi-ya), there is 
little to see ; but the way on (2 ri) to 
Shimo-no-seki is beautiful. Just 
before getting to the narrows that 
afterwards open out to form Shimo- 
no-seki harbour, one passes Dan-no- 
ura, a stretch or reach whose name 
is familiar to every student of 
Japanese history. 

It was the scene of the greatest naval 
battle of the middle ages, when the 
Taira, hitherto all-powerful, received 
their death-blow from the rival house 
of Minamoto headed by the young hero 
Yoshitsune. The Taira forces were en- 
cumbered by the presence of numerous 
women and children, among whom were 
the widow and daughter of Kiyomori, — 
the former a nun, the latter the Empress- 
Dowager Kenrei Mon-in, with her child, 
the Emperor Antoku, then only six years 
old. When his grandmother saw that all 
was lost, she clasped the young monarch 
in her arms, and despite the entreaties of 
her daughter, leapt into the sea where 
both were drowned. This was in A. D. 
1185. 

Across the strait lies Ta-no-ura, 
whence eighteen foreign men-of- 
war poured their shot and shell 
upon the Japanese batteries in 
what is known as the " Shimo-no- 
seki Affair." 

This arose out of an attempt on the 
part of the Daimyo of Choshu, who 
was at that time a semi-independent 
ruler, to close the straits leading into 
the Inland Sea. Two American ships, 
a French ship, and a Dutch ship were 
fired on in June and July, 1863, and 
several men killed. Failing to obtain 
satisfaction from the Shogun's govern- 
ment, the representatives of the three 
powers concerned, together with the 
British representative, who deemed it 
essential for all the Western powers to 
make common cause in their dealings 
with the Japan of those days, sent a com- 
bined fleet to bombard Shimo-no-seki. 
This was done on the 5th and 6th Sep- 
tember, 1864. The victors furthermore 
claimed an indemnity of $3,000,000, on 
account of the expense to which they 
had been put to enforce the observ- 
ance of the existing treaties. Several 
years later, the United States govern- 
ment repaid their share of the indemnity. 



408 



Route 4t8.— The Island of Awaji. 



Shimo-no-seki, also called Ba- 
kan (Sanyo Railway Hotel, Europ. 
style ; Inns, Kawa-u, Hamakichi, 
both near station), is a considerable 
shipping centre, lying 4 m. from 
the W. entrance of the strait which 
separates the Main Island from 
Kyushu. The town stretches for 
over 2 miles near the W. entrance 
of the strait, which rushes like a 
torrent between the Main Island 
and Kyushu. 

A good J hr's walk is to Odo, at 
the extreme W. of the main island. 
Here a picturesque view is obtained 
of islets and of Kyushu beyond. 
Beyond one island r. a portion of 
the Russian fleet lay in 1904, before 
proceeding a little further north to 
be annihilated. Shimonoseki and 

Moji (Inns, *Ishida-ya, Europ. 
style ; Kawa-u ; Europ. restt., Kyu- 
shu-tei), a new town on the Kyushu 
side, form practically but one port. 
Both sides of the strait have been 
fortified as a precaution against 
further foreign attacks. The pros- 
perity of Moji dates from the year 
1891, when it was selected as the 
northern terminus of the Kyushu 
Railway. Owing to the swiftness 
of the tides on the Shimo-no-seki 
side, the mail steamers, even when 
advertised for Shimo-no-seki, anchor 
off Moji. The distance across the 
strait is only 1 mile, and steam 
ferry-boats ply every 10 min. — 
Shimo-no-seki enjoys an excellent 
climate at all times of the year, 
owing to its southern frontage with 
hills behind, admitting the summer 
breezes and protecting it from 
northerly winter blasts. Moji, 
which faces N.W., is less salubrious. 



ROUTE 48. 



The Island or Awaji. 



The Island of Awaji, situated 
at the eastern entrance of the 
Inland Sea, can be easily reached 
by small daily steamer from Kobe 
(Hyogo) in 2 hrs. to Kariya, which 
is the first port touched at. The 
steamer, after calling at Kariya, 
continues on to Shizuki, 40 min.; 
to Sumoto, the capital, 40 min. more; 
and to Yura, 30 min. From spring 
to autumn, another steamer service 
connects Minato and the villages of 
the West Coast with Akashi. 

There is also a steam ferry service 
between Akashi and Iwaya at the 
N. extremity of the island, and 
another at the S. end between 
Fukura and Muya on the way to 
Tokushima in Shikoku. 

The chief distances on the island 
are as follows : — 

East Coast. — Bi Cho M. 

Kariya to Shizuki .. . 3 16 Sh 
Shizuki to Sumoto... 2 33 7i 
Sumoto to Yura 1 34 4 J 

Southern Inland Boad. — 

Sumoto to Hirota ... 1 29 4 J 

Hirota to Fukura ... 3 28 9£ 
(Or straight across from 

Shizuki to Fukura, 

without going round 

by Sumoto) 8 — 19J 

Western Inland Boad. — 

Fukura to Ko-enami. 2 10 5J 

Ko-enami to Minami- 

dani 3 22 8| 

Minami-dani to Gun- 

ge 3 - 7J- 

(Or preferably from 

Fukura to Gunge via 

Minato and the West 

Coast) 

West Coast. — 

Gunge to Tsukue ... 3 21 8| 
Tsukue to Iwaya 2 29 6f 



General Information* 



409 



Iwaya* to Kariya ... 2 20 6J- 
Distances by Sea from Awaji 

to the Mainland. — 
Iwaya to Akashi in 

Harima 1 23 4 

Yura to Kada in Ki- 

shu 2 30 7 

Fukura to Maya in 

Awa (in Shikoku) 3 2 7J 

A trip to Awaji is to be recom- 
mended in early winter or in srjring, 
the climate being mild, the scenery 
picturesque, and the roads fairly 
good. Jinrildshas can be obtained 
almost everywhere. The best inns 
are those at Sumoto (Xabeto) ; at 
Komoe (Shishu-en), a summer resort 
near by; at Shizuki (Hirano-ya), 
Fukura (Yabu-man), and Gunge 
(Shinkuma). There is also fair ac- 
commodation at Yura (Tanaka-ya) 
and at Iicaya. The other inns are 
rather poor, but every village affords 
accommodation of some sort. The 
traveller who wishes to explore the 
island thoroughly, is recommended 
to land at Kariya, and make the 
round in the order described below. 
This will take from 3 to 4 days. 
Persons pressed for time can obtain 
a glimpse of the prettiest part of 
the scenery by taking steamer from 
Kobe to Sumoto, and returning 
next morning. 

The Island of Awaji is mentioned in 
the earliest Japanese legends as the first 
result of the marriage of the creator and 
creatress, Izanagi and Izanami, when 
they gave birth to the various islands 
of the Japanese archipelago ; and the 
beauties of the harbour of Yura have 
been sung by poets from time immemori- 
al. Coming down to historical days, the 
unfortunate Emperor Junnin was exiled 
here in AD. 764, having been deposed by 
his predecessor, the Empress Koken, a 
Japanese Messalina, who added to her 
other excesses a wild desire for Imperial 
power which was not properly hers, and 
who, having once abdicated in favour of 
Junnin, wished to reascend the throne. 
During the Middle Ages, the lordship 
of the island and of different portions of 



^Properly speaking, Iwaya is at the 
N.E. extremity of the island. But this 
division of the roads is practically the 
more convenient. 



it passed successively into the hands of 
several feudal chiefs, and finally of the 
Hachisuka family and of their depen- 
dants, the Inada. The castle of Sumoto 
was constructed in the 16th century. 

The scene as the steamer ap- 
proaches Kariya is most pictur- 
esque, — delightful little coves and 
peaceful nooks, pine-trees on the 
strand, small valleys stretching up 
towards verdure- clad hills, and in 
the distance the hazy outline of 
Senzan, one of the highest hills 
on the island (1,550 ft.) and of the 
lofty land beyond. This kind of 
scenery, ever varied in its details, 
continues all along the E. coast to 
Sumoto and Yura. It will generally 
be found best to spend the first 
night at Sumoto. Those having 
another day to spare may turn off 
inland shortly after leaving Shizuki, 
and go to Sumoto via the top of 
Senzan, Jinrikishas can be en- 
gaged as far as Futatsu-ishi, 1 ri 24 
did; but it will probably be more 
satisfactory to walk the whole way, 
taking some 6 hours. The actual 
ascent is about 1 ri in length. 
Half-way up stands the temple of 
Koshinji. Thence to the top the 
path lies through a wood, some of 
the trees presenting a curious ap- 
pearance, the soil having crumbled 
away from their roots, so as to leave 
the latter poised high above the 
level of the surrounding ground. 
Fine views are obtained from Sen- 
zan and the path leading up. The 
temple on the summit is called 
Senkoji. It has a solid modern gate 
and belfry ; but the Hondo, or main 
edifice, and the pagoda are old. 

The way down on the side to- 
wards Sumoto brings that town 
in sight to the 1., with Kishu and 
the islets of the Kii Channel be- 
yond it, while to the r. are the 
mountains of Awa in Shikoku. 
From the base of Senzan to the 
Aiya waterfall, and thence to Su- 
moto, the path leads mostly across 
a fertile plain. Those not desirous 
of visiting the fall can proceed 
direct to Sumoto from the base of 



410 



Route 4&.—The Island of Awaji 



Senzan, the distance being 1J ri. 

Sumoto is surrounded by fine old 
pine-trees. Behind the town is the 
site of the former castle, steep and 
high. The productions for which 
the town is chiefly noted are sweet- 
meats. The potteries deserve a 
visit. A spare day might pleas- 
urably be devoted to the ascent of 
Kashiwara-yama, the highest point 
of the S. E. range of the island 
(1,930 ft.), commanding a fine view 
inland all over the plains of south- 
ern Awaji, its distant northern 
hills, the sea, the coast of Kishu, 
Nushima (the odd islet off Awaji), 
and some islets off the coast of 
Shikoku. To obtain this view, 
it is necessary to go up through the 
wood behind the temple. Erom 
Kashiwara-yama one may descend 
to Yura, where a garrison is 
stationed. Thence there is a 2 ri 
ride along a beautiful shore. 

The interest of the Southern In- 
land Road leading from Sumoto to 
Fukura is mainly archaeological. 
There is a curious mound called 
Onogoro-jima, i.e. the island of 
Onogoro, at a short distance from 
the village of Yagi or Yogi, where 
the path to it diverges r. from the 
main road, and soon leads to a dry 
river-bed where it is necessary to 
alight from the jinrikishas. 

Ad early Japanese tradition, preserved 
in the Kojiki, tells us that Izanagi and 
Izananii, when they were about to pro- 
duce the Japanese archipelago, " stood 
upon the Floating Bridge of Heaven, 
pushed down the jewelled spear and 
stirred with it, whereupon, when they 
had stirred the brine till it went curdle- 
curdle (koro-koro) and drew the spear 
up, the brine that dripped down from 
the end of the spear was piled up and 
became an island. This is the island of 
Onogoro. " 

Several islets off the coast of 
Awaji contend for the honour of 
being this first-fruit of creation; 
and this inland claimant may well, 
by the ignorant country-people, be 
supposed to have been once itself 
an island, standing up as it does 
prominently from the surrounding 



rice-field flats. But there can be" 
little doubt that it is the funeral 
mound of some very ancient prince, 
all memory of whom has passed 
away. There is a small shrine on 
it dedicated to Izanagi and Izanami, 
and at the southern end of it a stone 
called the sekirei-ishi, or "wagtail 
stone," with reference to an inci- 
dent of the creation legend, for 
which Yol. Ill, Part I, Appendix, pp. 
69-70, of the Transactions of the 
Asiatic Society of Japan may be 
consulted. A hole has been scooped 
out on the W. side of the mound by 
women who mix fragments of the 
earth with water, and drink it as 
a charm to ensure easy delivery. 
Within a stone's throw is a clump 
of reeds called Ashi-wara-koku. 

Ashi-wara-no-kuni, i.e., the Land of 
Reed Plains, is an ancient name for 
Japan. But the country-people, mis- 
taking ashi, " a reed," for ashi, " the 
foot," having invented a story to the effect 
that this is the spot on which Izanami 
first set foot when he came down to 
earth, — Kuni and koku are synonyms for 
" land "or " country." 

After visiting Onogoro-jima, the 
jinrikishas are rejoined, and the 
hamlets of O-enami and Ko-enami 
passed through. The latter is 
marked by two or three very fine 
pine-trees. The pine-trees of the 
whole island, how T ever, are those 
which form an avenue lining the 
main road for a distance of 50 chb 
just at this part of the journey. 
In order to enjoy the sight of them, 
it is worth while turning into the 
main road as soon as the avenue is 
seen to the 1. 

A further detour to the 1. is need- 
ed if it be intended to visit the vill. 
of Iyano, where are located the 
potteries of the Mimpei and Sampei 
families. 

This peculiar ware was first produced 
between the years 1830 and 1840 by one 
Kajii Mimpei, a man of considerable pri- 
vate means, who devoted himself to the 
ceramic art out of pure enthusiasm. 
Directing his efforts at first to reproduc- 
ing the deep green and straw-yellow 
glazes of China, which country he visited 
in quest of information, he had exhausted 



Nando Channel. 



411 



aimost iiis entire resources before suc- 
cess came ; and even then the public was 
slow to recognise the merits of his ware. 
Now, however, connoisseurs greatly prize 
genuine old pieces by Mimpei, some of 
which combine various colours so as to 
imitate tortoise-shell, while others have 
designs incised or in relief, or are skil- 
fully decorated with gold and silver. At 
the present day the quality of Awaji ware 
has sadly deteriorated, though Sampei 
has won prizes at several exhibitions. 
The pieces are mostly monochromatic, 
and intended for everyday use. 

The next object of interest on the 
road is the Tumulus of the hapless 
Emperor Junnin, mentioned above. 
Being 1,200 ft. in length and 430 ft, 
in breadth, while the whole is sur- 
rounded by a moat and covered with 
a dense grove full of singing-birds, 
this tumulus forms a prominent ob- 
ject in the landscape. It is com- 
monly known as Tenno no Mori, that 
is, the " Emperor's Grove." That of 
Junnin' s mother, Taema Fujin, lies 
8 or 10 cho away to the S.Yv . 

After leaving these mounds, a 
jinrikisha ride of about J hr. brings 
one to the little seaport town of 
Fukura, now fortified, where it 
will probably be best to spend the 
second night. The wonder of the 
place is the violent rush of water 
through the Naruto Channel, 
which separates the islands of Awaji 
and Shikoku, and connects the 
Inland Sea with the Pacific Ocean. 
It is a truly impressive sight, 
and one which should not be 
missed, especially at spring-tides 
when no junk can attempt the 
passage. Boats are furnished by 
the proprietor of the inn at Fukura ; 
and the expedition, which occupies 
from 4 to 6 hrs., is attended with no 
danger, passengers being taken 
out under shelter of the coast 
to within easy distance of the 
strait, and being able to view the 
panorama either from the boat, or 
from some rocks on which it is 
usual to land. The best time of all 
is said to be the 3rd day of the 3rd 
moon, old style (some time at the 
end of March or in the first half of 
April), when the people of the 



neighbouring districts on both sides 
of the channel take a holiday, and 
go out in boats to see the rush of 
the briny torrent. The breadth 
of the channel is estimated at 13 
cho ; but some rocks divide it into 
two unequal parts, called respec- 
tively O-Naruto and Ko-Naruto, 
i.e., the Greater and the Lesser 
Naruto. The Greater Naruto being 
on the Shikoku side, that side 
affords an even finer spectacle 
than is to be obtained from Awaji. 
Looking from the boat, if on the 
Awaji side, the province of Awa 
in the Island of Shikoku is seen 
in front; to the r. of it stretches 
the long line of Sh5do-shima; 
while further r. in the extreme 
distance, are the mountains of 
Harima on the mainland, with 
the little island of Ejima sticking 
up in front of them like a cocked 
hat. The rocks on the Awaji side 
are tilted at a considerable angle, 
and are here and there lined with 
pine-trees which give them an 
appearance resembling that of a 
painting in the Chinese style. For 
soft winning beauty, however, 
neither this nor any part of the W. 
Coast, excepting towards the north, 
is comparable to the E. Coast of the 
island. 

On leaving Fukura it is best to 
take jinrikisha to Minato, a distance 
of about 3 ri. The first part of the 
road leads near the tumulus of the 
Emperor Junnin, but turns off to 
the 1. skirting the Y\ r . side of the 
valley. The prettiest part lies 
along the embankment of a stream 
flowing some feet above the level 
of the surrounding plain. The 
village of Minato is remarka- 
ble for its salt factories, and for 
a temple dedicated to Kwannon 
which resembles a small fort- 
ress. From here the main road 
proceeds along the coast, at first 
under the shadow of pine-trees by 
the beach, — locally famous under 
the name of Kei no Matsuhara. 
The views obtained here embrace 
the coast of Harima, the island of 



412 



Route 46. — From Kobe to Ikuno and KinosakL 



Shodo-shima, and the mountains of 
Awa behind Shodo-shima. The 
third night will probably best be 
spent at Gunge. After Gunge, 
the view gradually gains in beauty. 
The path mounts, little promon- 
tories stretch out into the sea, 
pine-trees extend their fantastically 
contorted shapes toward the waves, 
to the 1. lies Shodo-shima, and 
ahead and to the r. the blue outline 
of the mountains of Harima, with, in 
the faint distance, the snow-capped 
Tamba range. Beyond the hamlet 
of Murotsu, the hills forming the 
backbone of Awaji itself retire a 
little from the strand, giving glimp- 
ses of field and valley. 

The passage across from Tsukue 
to Akashi makes a pleasant finish 
to the journey in fine weather. The 
whole horizon is alive with the 
white sails of junks going up and 
down the Inland Sea. Those who 
enjoy a sea voyage only in propor- 
tion to its shortness, will do best to 
cross to Maiko from Matsuo> a 
hamlet at the northern extremity 
of the island, not far from the 
lighthouse. 

The trip might be shortened by 
taking steamer direct from Kobe to 
Sumoto, and by omitting the ex- 
pedition to the Naruto Channel ; 
but it would be a pity to miss this 
latter unique sight. 



KOTJTE 49. 



Fkom Kobe to the Mines of 

Ikuno and the Hot Speings 

of Kinosaki. 



<D 

t> _, „, 


Names 




%$2 

* go 


of 


Remarks 


A 


Stations 




Miles 


KOBE 




34 


HIMEJI JCT. 




35 


Kyoguchi 




371 


Nozato 




39 


NibuDO 




41 


Koro 




421 


Mizoguchi 




44| 


Fnkuzaki 




4-G'i 


Amachi 




491 


Tsurue 




52£ 


Teraniai 




561 


Hase 




61 


IKUNO 




661 


Nii 




71i 
75 


Takeda 
WADAYAMA 


( For Fukuchi- 




JCT 


\ yania to the 
( E. 


781 


Yofu 


82£ 


Y6ka 




87 


Ebara 




93 


Toyooka 




99 


KINOSAKI 





For the journey between Kobe 
and Himeji see p. 396. At the latter 
we change from the main trunk 
line to what is known as the Bantan 
Railway. Hence the line runs up 
the valley of the Ichikawa, pictur- 
esque with high hills, especially 
between Fukuzaki and 

Ikuno (Inn, *Shiba-sen). This 
place almost exactly on the water- 
shed between the Sea of Japan and 
the Inland Sea, lies at an altitude 
of 1,200 ft. in the midst of steep 
wooded hills, gay in autumn with 
every tint of red and yellow, and in 
spring with the blossom of the wild 
cherry-tree. It is said to experi- 
ence a daily rain-fall. Its present 
importance comes from its silver 
mines (Ginzan), which are the 
second largest in the empire and 
the best worked. (The largest are 



Route 50. — Matsue and West Coast to Hagi. 



413 



those of Innai in the province of 
Ugo, — see Route 74). It is a noisy 
little town, but clean. 

The general name of Ikuno covers three 
separate niines, — Tasei, Mikobata, and 
Kanagase, the two former of which pro- 
duce silver and gold, the last silver and 
copper. The ore is brought on a light 
railway to the village, where the silver 
is extracted. Two processes are employ- 
ed. In one, the crushed and roasted ore 
is lixiviated with hyposulphite of soda, 
and the silver then precipitated by sul- 
phite. The machinery is driven by tur- 
bines. Visitors are admitted to the works 
between the hours of 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. 
Fifteen hundred persons are employed, 
including a number of women and little 
girls above-ground. The miners work 
day and night in three shifts of 8 hours 
each, the above-ground hands, 11 hours. 

A spare afternoon at Ikuno may 
be devoted to strolling up to the 
dam (Mabuchi no chosui), lh m. off, 
used to raise the level of the water 
at the head of the flume, — power 
about 200 H.P. 

Wadayama (Inn, Kago-hei). 

Yoka (Inn, Suwa-ya), is a pros- 
perous town on the road leading to 
the provincial capital of Tottori 
(see p. 418). 

Toyo-oka (Inn, Miki-ya) is a 
large town lining the 1. bank of the 
river, and noted for its manufac- 
ture of yanagi-gori, — light wicker 
trunks, — for which the willows that 
abound hereabouts afford the 
material. In the neighbourhood, 
high up on the r. bank of the 
placid Maruyama-gawa, are the 
noted basaltic caves' of Gembudo, 
well worth a visit. 

Kinosaki (also known as Yushi- 
iio), a little town of inns and bath- 
houses called into existence by the 
hot springs, much frequented by 
visitors from Kydto and Osaka. 
The best inns are *Yut6-ya, and 
Miki-ya. The public baths are 
well-arranged, and the water, which 
is very hot and slightly sulphurous, 
will be tempered for the conveni- 
ence of first-class guests. The 
summer is the busiest season. 



The most ancient of the springs, which 
is said to have been known ever since 
A.D. 593, is called Kb no yu, lit. " the hot 
water of the stork," in allusion to a tale 
which is not without its counterpart in 
Europe. A peasant (so it is alleged) was 
surprised to see a stork, apparently suffer- 
ing from pain in its legs, alighting and 
burrowing, as it were, in the ground at a 
certain spot on the plain. It did this for 
several days in succession, and at last 
flew away cured. Thereupon the peasant 
examined the spot, and discovered the 
mineral spring, over which he and his 
fellows erected a bathing-shed. 

For the schedule of the West 
Coast Railway from Kinosaki to Tot- 
tori, and from Tottori to Matsue, see 
Eoute 51. The portion of the line, 
near Hamasaka, presented great 
engineering difficulties, including a 
bridge 1,017 ft. long and 125 ft. 
high. 



ROUTE 50. 



Matsue and the Coast West- 
ward to Hagi. 

1. matsue. 2. tempee of izumo. 
3. ascent of daisen. 4. the oe.i 
islands. 5. hamada and hagi. 

1. Matsue. 

The principal object of interest 
on this little travelled route is the 
Great Temple of Izumo described 
on next page. It can be reached 
most expeditiously by train from 
Kyoto or Himeji (of. Etes 44, 49, and 
51). 

A common Japanese name for the West 
Coast and for the highway along it is 
San-indo, or "Shady Road," given in con- 
tradistinction to the shore of the Inland 
Sea, which is called San-ybdb, or " Sunny 
Road." The striking difference in climate 
between the two fully justifies these 
names. Cloudy skies, a heavy snowfall, 
and intense cold characterise the San- 
indo winter. 



414 



Route 50. — Matsue and West Coast to Hagi. 



Travellers from the West may 
avail themselves of another route 
to this part of the W. Coast by 
the railway running N. from 
Okayama up the valley of the 
Asahi-gawa to Tsuyama (Inn, 
Fukuda-ya), capital of the province 
of Mimasaka. This place retains 
the extensive walls of the former 
Daimyo's castle, situated on an 
eminence overlooking the moun- 
tain-girt plain. The next section 
as far as Yonago (2 days) is done in 
jinrikisha, the scenery being pleas- 
ing and the roads excellent through- 
out. One and a half ri aside from 
Katsu-yama is the waterfall of Kam- 
ba, 460 ft. high. Beyond the vill. 
of JEbi, Daisen (see p. 416) looms 
grandly. The best accommodation 
is at Katsuyama (Inn, Kishi-ya), 
Neu (Inn, Cha-ya), and Yonago (Inn, 
Kome-go). This last, situated on 
the Naka-umi Lagoon, is the most 
flourishing town in the province of 
Hoki. A spare hour may be em- 
ployed in visiting Shiroyama, 
(" Castle Hill ") which affords a fine 
view. The final stage by train into 
Matsue takes 1 hr. Yonago is also 
the junction for Sakai, J hr., a port 
situated at the mouth of the Naka- 
umi Lagoon. 

Itinerary. 

TSUYAMA to:— Ri Cho M. 

Miyao 1 21 4 

Tsuboi 1 25 4J- 

Kuze 3 5 7| 

Katsuyama 1 28 4J 

Mikamo 3 26 9 

Shinjd 1 23 4 

Itaibara 2 13 5f 

Neu 1 33 4f 

Ebi 1 31 4J 

Mizoguchi 2 15 5f 

YONAGO 3 20 8| 

Total 25 24 62| 



Matsue (Inns, *Minabi, in Kyd- 
Mise, Hashimoto-kwan ; Europ. 
restt., Binsui-tei, next door), the 
most important town on the West 



Coast, was formerly the seat of a 
Daimyo, whose well-preserved castle 
stands on a height in its midst, and 
should be visited for the fine view 
of the town and of the Shinji 
Lagoon. Matsue is a clean and 
prosperous city, intersected by 
many canals and surrounded by 
low hills, beyond which rise the 
blue silhouettes of distant moun- 
tain ranges, with Daisen towering 
above all. Of Matsue' s many tem- 
ples, the best are Gesshoji, Tokoji, 
Kasuga, and Inari. 

A pleasant drive of 2J ri may be 
taken to the slightly sulphurous hot 
springs of Tama-tsukuri (Inn, Hosei- 
kwan), the road for the most part 
skirting the lagoon. On the way, 
the vill. of Fujina is passed, where 
are several factories producing the 
well-known Izumo faience, which 
is a familiar object all over the 
district. There are also some agate 
and crystal polishers in cottages 
between Fujina and Tama-tsukuri, 
where various ornaments may be 
purchased. 

Speaking of the Izumo faience, the late 
Mr. J. L. Bowes says: " Good specimens 
are noticeable for the glazes which are 
used ; they are singularly transparent 
and brilliant, having a highly satisfactory 
effect upon the delicate yellow faience, 
and the crackled surfaces afford an admi- 
rable ground for the customary deco- 
ration, generally of insects, butterflies, 
and so forth, in various colours. The 
painting, however, is generally of poor 
order, and the enamelled colours used 
are weak and by no means satisfactory. 
Occasionally chocolate or green glazes 
are used without the addition of any 
decoration, and the skill with which 
these brilliant glazes are applied pro- 
duces a good effect." 

2. — Gkeat Temple of Izumo. 

From Matsue to the great Shintd 
temple of Izumo at Kizuki is 1 hr. 
by train to Imaichi, whence some 
13 m. by jinrikisha. The present 
(1913) Terminus of the West Coast 
Railway is Taisha, some 3 m. nearer. 
At the town of 

Imaiclii (Inn, Izumi-ya), is an 
interesting "cave" and dolmen 



The Great Temple of Izumo. 



415 



containing a stone sarcophagus, — a 
monolith 10 ft. long, 5J ft. wide, 
and 5 ft. high. The key is kept at 
a temple behind the town office, 
and some of the objects may be 
inspected there, which were found 
when the spot was first opened 
up in 1825. More interesting still 
is another dolmen, 20 cho distant, 
discovered in 1887 in the garden 
of a Mr. Murayama. This holds 
two sarcophagi. The collection of 
articles here disinterred includes 
swords, numerous iron objects, 
copper-plates heavily gilt, bells, 
spear and arrow-heads, etc. Other 
dolmens have been discovered in 
the district of late years. 

The country is flat. A noticeable 
features is afforded by the method 
resorted to for protection against 
wind and snow at all the farms and 
other houses. The pines are trim- 
med and cut, forming huge hedges 
from 40 to 50 feet high. 

Kizuki (Inn, *Inaba-ya), a small 
towD at the foot of some hills, is 
famed throughout Japan for the 
Great Temple of Izumo (Izumo no 
0-yashlro), which is dedicated to the 
god Onamuji, and which disputes 
with those of Ise the honour of 
being the most ancient shrine of 
the Shinto religion. Kizuki is also 
a favourite sea-bathing resort. 

The province of Izumo, and more or less 
the whole country eastward to Tajima 
and Tango, together with the Oki Islands, 
occupy a prominent place as the theatre 
of many of the tales forming the old 
Japanese mythology. Indeed that my- 
thology has been traced by students to 
three centres, of which one is Kyushu 
with its warlike legends of Jimmu Tenno 
and Jingo Kogo, ancestors of the Imperial 
line; another is Yamato, which in early 
days seems to have had native princes of 
its own ; and the third is Izumo, wherein 
are located strange tales of gods, and 
monsters, and speaking animals, and 
caves through which entrance to Hades 
is obtained. Susa-no-o, born from the 
nose of the creator Izanagi and brother 
to the Sun-Goddess Aina-terasu, is the 
hero of some of these tales. The hero of 
most of the others is his descendant Ona- 
muji, also called Okuni-nushi, that is, 
" the Master of the Great Land," in other 
words, the King of Izumo, to whom later 



on an embassy was sent from heaven, re- 
questing him to abdicate the sovereignty 
in favour of the Sun-Goddess's descen- 
dant, progenitor of the earthly Mikados. 
To this he consented, on condition of 
having a temple built for his reception 
and worship. So they built him a grand 
shrine on the shore of the land of Izumo, 
" making stout the temple pillars on the 
nethermost rock-bottom, and making 
high the cross-beams to the plain of high 
heaven," — and there he is worshipped to 
this day, the very name of Kizuki pre- 
serving to the faithful the recollection 
of the pestles (Jane) with which the soil 
was beaten (ts-uku) to render the founda- 
tions firm and everlasting. — Possibly this 
tale preserves in mythic form an echo of 
the conquest of Western Japan by the 
present ruling race. The high-priest of 
Izumo, who boasts of being the eighty- 
second descendant in a direct line from 
the god Susa-no-o, used to be styled Iki- 
gami, — that is, a " living god." 

The buildings (see illustration 
facing p. 37), which afford a model 
of the unornamented style of Pure 
Shinto, are situated at the foot of 
thickly wooded hills, and are ap- 
proached by a broad walk under 
wood and bronze torii. The gate 
of the large enclosure containing 
the temples is only opened at festi- 
val times, so that they must be 
viewed from the outside. The 
priests' apartments have fine rooms 
with pretty gardens. The temple 
possesses many treasures, especial- 
ly kakemonos by classic artists, and 
modern statues in wood of Shinto 
deities; but they are not shown. 
Here, too, is preserved the sacred 
fire-drill, still the sole lawful means 
of producing the ancient fire. It is 
a simple board of chamaecyparis 
wood, with holes at the edges, 
wherein a reed is made to kindle 
sparks by being rapidly revolved 
for 10 to 15 minutes. 

There are nineteen other shrines, 
not consecrated to special deities, 
but in which all the Shinto gods 
and goddesses are supposed to as- 
semble during the month of Oc- 
tober. For this reason October is, 
in Izumo alone, called Kami-ari- 
zuki, "the Month with Gods;" 
whereas, in the classical parlance 
of the rest of Japan, it is Ka r mi-na- 



416 



Route 50. — Matsue and West Coast to Hagi. 



zuki, "the Month without Gods," 
because all the other shrines of the 
empire are believed to be then 
abandoned by their tutelary deities. 
On the sea-shore stands a much 
smaller temple, — the scene of the 
abdication of the_sovereignty of 
Izumo by the god Onamuji. From 
200,000 to 250,000 pilgrims visit the 
Great Shrine annually. 

Owing to the prominence of 
Izumo in mythology and legend, 
many Shinto_ shrines, beside that 
dedicated to Onamuji, are scatter- 
ed about the province. 

A pretty 3 ri excursion from Ki- 
zuki is to the banks of the Kobe- 
gawa, also called Kanto-gawa, 
whence by boat for 1 ri to view the 
rock scenery. A much rougher ex- 
pedition (10 ri) is up Sambe-yama, 
4,025 ft., the highest mountain in 
this country-side, Daisen only ex- 
cepted. 

3. — Ascent of Daisen. 

Daisen, or Oyama, 6,150 ft., the 
loftiest as well as the most sacred 
mountain on the West Coast, where 
dwells the great Shinto god Ona- 
muji, may be reached by the trav- 
eller from Tsuyama (p. 414) by a 
mountain path from Mizoguohi (3 
ri to the temples and inns on the 
northern slope), returning by the 
road to Yonago (5 ri). To shorten 
this latter, the "old path" should 
be followed over moorland, extend- 
ing nearly 2 ri from the river-bed 
at Odaka. Those coming the op- 
posite way may sometimes avail 
themselves of jinrikishas the whole 
distance, and in any case as far as 
the river-bed h ri beyond Odaka. 
On this moorland is a large govern- 
ment stud-farm. (There is another 
way, — from Mikuriya, a station on 
the West Coast Bail way, 3| ri.) The 
temples are picturesquely situated, 
the approach being up long nights 
of steps. Fair accommodation at the 
Sakura-ya inn. Horse and cattle 
fairs are held here on festival days, 



viz. 24th May, 15th July, and 24th 
October. From here to the top is 
an arduous scramble of 1J ri, re- 
warded by an extensive view. The 
chief features are the Oki Islands 
in the offing, Sambe-yama on the 
borders of Izumo and Iwami to the 
W., and Mikuni-yama and the 
mountains of Tajima and Tamba to 
the E. Daisen is an extinct volcano, 
closely resembling Fuji in shape. 

Founded in A.D. 718, the monastery 
owes its lasting celebrity to the seventh 
abbot, Jikaku Daishi, who is said to have 
landed here on his return from China, 
whither he had betaken himself to study 
esoteric doctrines. It attained its great- 
est prosperity in the 14th century. 
There were then no less than 250 temples 
on the mountain. During the Tokugawa 
regime, when the centre of civilisation 
had shifted to Eastern Japan, these de- 
creased to forty, and now only two 
remain. 



4. — The Oki Islands. 

Oki consists of one large island 
called Dogo, and three smaller 
ones, — Chiburi-shima, Nishi-no- 
shima, and Nakashima, — collective- 
ly known as Dozen. The capital 
is Saigo, in Dogo, the distance to 
which by sea from Sakai (p. 414), 
is about 40 miles. 

The name Oki-no-shima evidently signi- 
fies " Islands in the Offing." Remote and 
rarely visited as is this little archipelago, 
it has figured in the national annals from 
the earliest ages. One of the quaintest 
legends in the Kojiki is that of the White 
Hare of Inaba, which sagacious animal, 
chancing to be in Oki and desiring a 
passage tc the mainland, made the croc- 
odiles (or sharks) of the sea lie in a row, 
so as to serve him as a bridge. — Coming 
down to historical times, the ex-Emperor 
Go-Toba, who had vainly striven to upset 
the feudal system and restore his own 
supreme authority, was defeated by 
Hojo Yoshitoki, and banished to Amagori 
in Dozen, where he died after many years 
of exile, A.D. 1239, and where his tomb 
is still shown. About eighty years later 
another Emperor, Go-Daigo, was banished 
by another Hojo regent to Beppu in 
Nishi-no-shima, but soon effected his 
escape in a fishing-boat, concealed under 
a heap of dried fish. Oki was a constant 
scene of strife during the Middle Ages 
being wrested by one feudal family from 



The OH Islands. Hamada. Hagi. 



417 



another. The great staple of the archi- 
pelago is the cuttle-fish, of which incredi- 
ble quantities are sometimes taken. 

The steamer from Sakai, which 
leaves on alternate days, makes the 
trip in 5 or 6 hrs. As the Izumo 
and Hdki mountains fade from 
sight, the high cliffs of Old come 
into view. Steaming into this 
archipelago, one sees at first no sign 
of life, — neither fields nor paths, — 
only grey cliifs sheering up from 
deep water to peaked slopes clothed 
with spare vegetation. At length 
the steamer glides into an inland 
sea formed by the three islands of 
Chiburi-shima, Nishi-no-shima, and 
Naka-shima. It first calls in at the 
hamlet of Chiburi-mura ; next at 
Uragb in Nishi-no-shima, and then 
at Hishi-ura, in Naka-shima, pass- 
ing through delightful scenery. 
The final stage is to Dogo, across 
the open sea, passing Matsu-shima, 
Omori-shima, and a number of steep 
uninhabited islands on the way. 
D5go is as steep and rugged as its 
neighbours. 

Saigo is a busy port, standing 
partly on a small river, and lining 
the bay and the river's mouth. On 
a hill above the town stands the 
temple of Zenrydji. There is found 
at a lake near Saig5, the batei-seki, 
a black stone from which jet-like 
articles are cut. 

5. — Hamada and Hagi. 
These places will probably be 
touched at, in the event of leaving 
Matsue by sea westward for Naga- 
saki or Inland Sea ports. As far as 
Hamada, the San-ind5 highway, to 
be availed of from Imaichi, mostly 
skirts the Sea of Japan. Beyond 
Hamada it is much less good. 

Itinerary. 

IMAICHI to:— Pa Cho M. 

Oda 4 17 11 

Haneto 3 11 8 

Torii 1 33 4f 

Takuno 2—5 

Yunotsu 3 10 8 

Kuromatsu 2 28 6| 



Asari 2 — 5 

Watazu 1 21 3f 

Tsunozu 19 1^ 

HAMADA 7 20 18} 

Misumi 5 14 13J 

Masuda 5 6 12} 

Takatsu 3 4 7} 

Susa 7 12 18 

Uta 3 1 7£ 

Nago 3 5 7} 

HAGI 3 31 9} 

Total 60 16 147} 



Hamada (Inns, Ddgu-ya, Hama- 
oka), situated on a fine bay, is 
chiefly noted on account of the 
terrible earthquake which half 
wrecked it in 1872, and in which 
over 2,000 persons perished. A good 
road joins Hamada with Hiroshima 
on the Inland Sea, the distance 
being traversed by jinrikisha in 
two days. There is fair accommo- 
dation on the way. 

Itinerary. 

HAMADA to:— Bi Cho M. 

Imabuku 3 33 9} 

Imaichi 2 8 5} 

Ichigi...... 5 25 14 

Oasa 3 11 8 

Shinjo 17 1\ 

Yae 3 20 8| 

Honji...., 1 23 4 

Suzubari 2 23 6} 

Kabe 3 27 9J 

Gion 2 27 6| 

HIEOSHIMA 2 5 5£ 

Total 32 3 78J- 



Hagi {Inn, Osaka-ya) was in 
early feudal times the residence of 
the great Mori family— Daimyos 
of Choshu — before their removal to 
the town of Yamaguchi. It was 
also the birthplace of Chikamatsu 
Monzaemon (see p. 71). There is 
a road from Hagi to Yamaguchi 
(p. 407), about 10 n, for which one 
day in jinrikisha will suffice. It is 
hilly with one high pass called 
Hatcho Dad, noted for its lovely 
scenery. 



418 Route 51. — From Matsue to Tottori and Wadayama. 



ROUTE 51. 



The West Coast from Matsue to 

Tottori. From Tottori to 

Ayabe. Across Country 

to Wadayama. 



Distance 


Names of Stations 


Miles 


MATSUE 


4 


Umagata 


6 


Kajiya 


n 


Arashima 


13 


Yasuki 


18 


YONAGO 


20| 


Kumantd 


24| 


Yodoe 


30 


Mikuriya 


m 


Shimoichi 


37J 


Akazald 


41 


Yabase 


44J 


Y 7 ura 


50J 


Kurayoshi 


54 


Matsuzaki 


57£ 


Tomari 


61| 


Aoya 


64| 


Hamamura 


m 


Hogi 


72| 


Koyama 


75J 


TOTTOEI 



After leaving the lagoons, the 
coast all the way to Tottori is a 
succession of well- wooded hills and 
dales, occasionally affording fine sea 
views. In some parts, waving 
sand-dunes catch the eye. The 
villages have a prosperous appear- 
ance, the houses being covered 
with light-brown glazed tiles, while 
numerous artesian wells supply 
excellent drinking water. Ceme- 
teries are passed, which, though 
well-cared for, seem oddly placed on 
the open strand, only a few feet 
above high- water mark. The second 
or inland portion of the route, though 
pleasing, has no special features of 
interest, except a few passes. It 
affords fair accommodation through- 
out, and excellent roads. 

On leaving Yonago, a large river 



called the Hino-gawa, and another, 
the Amida-gavM, are crossed before 
reaching 

Mikuriya (Inn, Kadowaki). A 
jinrikisha road leads hence to Dai- 
sen, 3 J n, frequented by travellers 
from Yonago and Matsue. After 
this come deep ravines and cuttings, 
with glimpses of the Sea of Japan 
and fine views of Daisen's snowy 
slopes. The broad Tenjin-gawa 
is crossed beyond Yura. 

Kurayosiii (Inn, Toyo-ken), a 
large place, lies 1 ri S. of its station. 
The big hills hereabouts have ne- 
cessitated some tunnelling. 

Matsuzaki, an interesting and 
comfortable resort, is prettily situat- 
ed on a shallow lake, 3 ri in circum- 
ference, called Togo-ike. There 
are numerous boiling springs in 
the bed of the lake, and the water 
is supplied to the inns by vertical 
bamboo pipes. Formerly the hot 
water gushed out of the hill side, but 
a flood altered the configuration of 
the locality in 1882. Of the numer- 
ous inns (Yojo-kwan best), some 
line the shore, while others stand in 
the lake and are approached by 
boat. The mineral water, which is 
led into all the inns, deposits iron 
oxyhydrate on cooling, which stains 
cloth a deep yellow. Fish abound 
despite the springs, and there are 
facilities for boating, swimming, 
and mountain climbing. More hot 
springs issue forth at 

Hamamura (Inn, Suzuki-ya), 
where they are led into every house, 
and are used both for drinking 
and for bathing. Koyama-ike is 
a shallow but pretty lake, sur- 
rounded by pine-clad hillocks ex- 
cept on the N., and dotted with 
picturesque islets. The Karogawa 
is crossed before entering 

Tottori (Inn, Kozeni-ya). This 
is a dull town, though the capital 
of a prefecture ; but the former 
castle site is picturesque, and the 
temple of Toshogu is prettily 
situated. 

From Tottori, the Eailway is 
continued to Kinosaki, Fukuchi- 



From Tottori to Wadayama. 



419 



yama, Ayabe, (see Ete 44), to Ky5to ; 
forming a through route from Kyoto 
to Imaichi (Izumo), about 13 hrs. 
The principal stations between 
Tottori and Ayabe are as follows : — 



© 






o 






1 


Names of Stations 


Remarks 


5 






Miles 


TOTTORI 




11 


Iwami 




201 


Hamasaka 




40 


Kinosaki 




46 


Tovo-oka 




64* 


Wadayama 


Jet. for Himeji 


831 


Fuknchi-yaraa 


Jet. for Osaka 


91 


AYABE 


Jet. for Maizuru 



Itinerary from Tottori to 
Wadayama. 

TOTTOEI to :— Bi Cho M. 

Iwai 5 15 13J 

Yumura 4 31 11J 

MUEAOKA 4 35 12J 

Seki-no-miya 4 1 9| 

Yoka 3 13 8J- 

WADAYAMA 3 8 7f 

Total 25 31 63 



Jinrikisha throughout, but the 
portions between Tottori and Iwai, 
Yoka and Wadayama may be done 
by train. Three and a half ri out 



of Tottori, the top of a pass affords 
a fine sea view. 

Iwai (Inn, Kishima-ya) is a spa 
boasting some fifteen inns, half of 
which have private springs. There 
are also public baths. 

An ascent of about 1J ri leads to 
the boundary between the provinces 
of Inaba and Tajima, whence one 
descends a valley to 

Yumura (many poor inns), a 
small vill. noted for hot springs on 
the river bank. Square tanks have 
been built, in which the water boils 
up, and vegetables and other edi- 
bles are cooked. The baths are 
cooled by adding water from ad- 
jacent cold springs. Beyond Yu- 
mura rises another pass, whose far 
side commands a fine view of the 
valley of the Kasumi-gawa, the road 
being about 800 ft. above the river. 
Crossing the latter and leaving 1. 
the road to Kasumi on the coast, 
we enter a narrow valley which 
leads up to the country town of 

Muraoka (Inn, Kago-hei). An- 
other long hill is encountered be- 
fore descending to the vills. of 
Nakase and Seki-no-miya ; thence 
mostly along the flat to 

Yoka (see p. 413) (Inn, Suwa-ya), 
and again by the bank of the placid- 
ly flowing Maruyama-gawa to 

Wadayama. Here the railway 
may be availed of N. to Kinosaki, 
E. to Fukuchi-yama, or S. to Himeji. 



SECTION IV. 
THE ISLAND OF SHIKOKU, 

(Routes 52 — 56. 



Route 52. — North-Eastern Shikoku. 



423 



KOUTE 52. 



Nobth-Easterx Shikoku. 

1. — General Kemarks on the 
Island of Shikoku. 

The word Shi-holm means "four coun- 
tries,"— a name derived from the fact of 
the island being divided into the four 
provinces of Awa to the E., Sanuki to the 
N.E., Iyo to the N.W., and Tosa to the S. 
As the author of the Kojiki quaintly 
phrases it, " This island has one body and 
four faces, and each face has a name." 
Some of the names used in early times 
were quaint indeed, the province of Iyo 
being called "Lovely Princess" {E-hime), 
Sanuki being " Prince Good Boiled Rice " 
(Ii-yori-hiko), Awa being " the Princess of 
Great Food " {O-ge-tsu-hime), and Tosa 
being "the Brave Good Youth" (Take- 
yori-wake). During the middle ages Shi- 
koku was ruled by a number of great 
feudal families, of which the most power- 
ful were the Kono, the Hosokawa, the 
Miyoshi, the Chosokabe, and the Hachi- 
suka. The island is now divided into the 
four prefectures of Tokushima, Kagawa, 
Ehime, and Kochi, corresponding respec- 
tively to the old provinces of Awa, Sanuki, 
Iyo, and Tosa. 

The climate of South Shikoku is excep- 
tionally mild owing to the influence of 
the Kuroshio, or Japanese gulf-stream ; 
that of the northern shores resembles the 
mainland, hence spring or early autumn 
is the best time for a visit. Tosa is the 
only province in Japan where two crops 
of rice are produced yearly. 

The greater part of the island is covered 
with mountain ranges of from 3,000 ft. to 
4,000 ft. in height, with few salient peaks, 
the loftiest being Tsurugi-san in Awa 
(7,354 ft.). "In Sanuki," says Dr. Rein, 
" the plain of Takamatsu is fringed 
towards the sea by several volcanic cones, 
quite distinct from the schist mountains 
in the interior. They include no im- 
portant heights, but are a very striking 
feature in the landscape." Japanese 
geologists, however, maintain that the 
peninsula of Sanuki is a recently 
elevated tract of the Inland Sea. The 
mountains of Shikoku are well-watered, 
and crowned with magnificent forests. 
" In the higher regions," continues Dr. 
Rein, " the eye is delighted by a vigorous 
growth of deciduous trees, where horse- 
chestnuts and magnolias are variously 
intermingled with beeches, oaks, maples, 
ashes, and alders. But laurel-leaved oaks, 
camelias, and other evergreen trees 
venture much nearer to them and higher 
than in Hondo [the main island of Japan], 
while still lower camphor-trees and other 
cinnamon species, the wild star-anise, 



nandina, and many other plants which 
we only find in the Main Island in a state 
of cultivation, take part in the composi- 
tion of the evergreen forests." 

Koute 52, 53, and 54 are the 

most picturesque in this section. 
The best way of getting to Shikoku 
is by steamer across the Inland 
Sea, — say, from Kobe or Onomichi 
to Tadotsu, from Okayama to Taka- 
matsu, from Hiroshima or Moji to 
Takahama, etc. 

2. — Tokushima, Naruto Whirl- 
pool. Takamatsu, Maru- 
game, Tadotsu, Kompira. 

Itinerary. 

TOKUSHIMA to :— Bi Cho M. 

Nakamura 1 25 4 J 

Muya 2 13 5| 

Bandd 2 19 6^ 

Odera 16 3 

Hiketa 3 25 9 

Shirotori 1 — 2J 

Sambon-matsu ... 1 2 2 J 

Machida (Nibu)... 1 1 2 J 

Nagao 3 17 %\ 

Hiragi 14 2} 

TAKAMATSU ... 3 9 8 

Total 22 13 54J 



Whence 2 hrs. by railway, via 
Marugame and Tadotsu, to Kompira. 

Steamers_ for Tokushima start 
daily from Osaka, sometimes calling 
in at Kobe to pick up passen- 
gers. The passage is made during 
the night, and the traveller finds 
himself at dawn gliding up the 
broad Yoshino-gawa. Soon the 
steamer stops at Kami-Zuketo (or 
Suketb), a suburb of Furukawa, the 
port of Tokushima, whence to Toku- 
shima itself is a 25 min. jinrikisha 
ride through pleasant country and 
past the thickly wooded site of the 
old castle of the Hachisuka family, 
the outer wall and moat of which 
still remain. 

This great family of Daimyos held sway 
over the whole province of Awa from 



424 



Route 52. — North-Eastern Shikoku. 



early in the 17th century till the revolu- 
tion of 1868. On the creation of new 
orders of nobility in 1884, its present 
head received the title of marquis. 

Tokuslaima (Inns, *Hiragame- 
ro, Shima-gen ; there are two Euro- 
pean restaurants), the largest and 
finest town in the island of Shikoku, 
and capital of the province of Awa 
and of the prefecture of Tokushima, 
is situated near the N.E. corner of 
that island, not far from the cele- 
brated w T hirlpool of Naruto. It 
is quiet and cleanly. Its sights 
need not detain the traveller more 
than two or three hours. The prin- 
cipal are as follows: — the Byobu 
Shinto temple known as Seimi no 
Kompira, strikingly situated on a 
hill called Seimi-yama at the 

Sei-mi-yama means lit. *' force-viewing 
hill." The name is derived from a tradi- 
tion to the effect that Yoshitsune here 
reviewed his forces before the terrific 
encounter at Yashima. 

S. end of the town. A flight of 
stone steps higher up the same hill, 
leads to a Shinto temple called Imbe 
Jinja. Otaki-mn, a hill nearer the 
centre of the town, deserves a visit 
for its temples and tine view. The 
Castle Grounds have been converted 
into a beautiful park affording 
delightful views of the town and 
neighbouring mountains, the rich 
alluvial plain intersected by various 
rivers, and the sea with the large 
island of Nushima to the spectator's 
left. 

The sea-shore of Komatsu-jima, 
famed for its scenery, lies 2J ri by 
jinrikisha to the south. 

[An enjoyable day's trip by jin- 
rikisha can be made from Toku- 
shima to Tsunomine, a hill 
situated some 7 ri to the south- 
ward. There are two roads, — 
one following the coast, the 
other, which is less picturesque, 
lying back a little among the 
hills. The coast road is render- 
ed striking by its rocky cliffs 
and long rows of graceful pine- 



trees. The last J ri, up to a 
small temple on the summit, 
must be done on foot. The 
yiew is delightful especially 
southward of the island-strewn 
gulf, which, under the names 
of Kotajima Minato and Tachi- 
bana-ura, curves inland for 5 
or 6 m., while around it rise 
wooded heights, with rice-fields 
and hamlets in the hollows, and 
salt-pans below. In the event 
of a late start from Tokushima 
rendering a return the same 
day impossible, the night may 
be spent at the vill. of Tomioka 
(Inn, Maruto), 6 ri 12 cho (15 J 
m.) at the base of the hill.] 

On leaving Tokushima, an early 
start should be made, with two men 
to each jinrikisha; otherwise the 
first day's journey, which cannot 
be conveniently brought to a close 
before Shirotori, will be prolonged 
into the night. Another plan is 
to sleep at Muya (Inn, Hamano), 
after seeing the Naruto Channel. 
The road leads first across the delta 
of the Yoshino-gawa, three of whose 
arms are passed on very long 
bridges. In front is a line of pine- 
clad hills, and all around extend 
fields of rice, sugar-cane, and other 
produce. The base of the hills is 
reached at Horie, where the road^ 
turns sharp to the r. towards Muya 
no Hayazaki, and then comes to 
Muya no Okamki, a fishing hamlet 
where boats can be hired for the 
trip to the Naruto, or whirlpool, 
between the islands of Shikoku and 
Awaji described on p. 411. The 
trip — a splendid one on a fine day — 
will occupy from 3 to 4 hrs. Lunch 
should be taken for consumption 
either in the boat or at the public 
park at the N. end of the large 
island which narrows in the strait 
on the west. Here is the justly 
celebrated view,— a view of pine- 
clad hills, and the picturesque islets 
of Hadakajima and Tobishima, 
Awaji beyond, and in the middle 
the tremendous rush of water, the 



Coast of Sanuhi. 



425 



whole scene recalling some of those 
pictures which Far-Eastern artists 
love to depict. The modern fortifi- 
cations seen on the Awaji side op- 
posite — alone mar the picture. The 
Naruto-Kden, or public park, may be 
reached also by jinrikisha, — dis- 
tance 1 ri from Okazald — after cross- 
ing a narrow arm of the sea by ferry. 
To proceed on one's journey, the 
1 h ri separating Okazaki from Horie 
must first be retraced. From Horie 
the road continues westward, skirt- 
ing the base of the hills, and pass- 
ing the tumulus (misasagi) of the 
Emperor Tsuchi-^Iikado. 

It was the fate of this unfortunate 
prince to fall upon the stormiest period 
of the Middle Age3. His father the Em- 
peror Go-Toba, and his brother the Em- 
peror Juntoku, were both exiled, — one 
to the Oki Islands, the other to Sado, by 
the upstart " Regents" of the Hojo line (p. 
73). Himself without any inclination to 
withstand rebellious oppression, a friend 
of poetry rather than of arms, he retired 
voluntarily to the remote province of 
Tosa, and afterwards carne north into 
Awa at the dictation of Hojo Yoshitoki, 
who apparently desired to have the ab- 
dicated monarch within nearer reach in 
the event of political complications. He 
died in A.D. 1231. 

The whole drive is a very pretty 
one, and becomes romantic after 
passing through the vill. of Odera 
(3 ri 15 cho direct from Tokushima 
by a level road), where, on a height, 
glistens a temple dedicated to the 
Buddhist god Shoden. Here the 
road suddenly turns sharp to the r. 
and plunges among the hills, in 
order to cross over the knob of 
high land forming the N.E. ex- 
tremity of Shikoku and gain the 
shore of the Inland Sea. After a 
time, it becomes necessary to alight 
from the jinrikishas, so steep is the 
Osaka, — as this hill or pass, which 
forms the boundary between the 
provinces of Awa and Sanuki, is 
appropriately termed. About a mile 
on either side has thus to be walked. 
In fact, a good pedestrian will save 
time by discharging his jinrikisha 
at Odera, and hiring another at the 
foot of the pass on the other side. 



At the top the Inland Sea comes in 
sight, and the view all the way 
down is one of continued loveliness, 
the blue outline of the mainland of 
Harima appearing on the horizon, 
and Shodo-shima, the largest island 
in the Inland Sea (see p. 402) stand- 
ing well out to the 1. 

Hiketa, being a poor place, it is 
better to sleep at Shirotori {Inn, 
Hashimata). 

[An alternative way from Shiro- 
tori to Takamatsu — a beautiful 
though hard day's walk — is to 
follow the pine- clad coast 
through Tsuda and Shido (tem- 
ples at the latter), and up the 
peak of Go-ken-zan (also called 
Yokuri), the loftiest point — 
1,120 ft. — on the sea-board of 
Sanuki, which is climbed with 
the assistance of chains. This 
walk may be shortened by tak- 
ing the electric tram from Shido 
into Takamatsu, 3 J ri] 

Just outside Hiketa 1., is a hill 
dotted with Buddhist images repre- 
senting the deities worshipped at 
the Eighty-eight Holy Places (see 
p. 437) of the island of Shikoku. All 
the hills are covered with pine- 
trees, and many of them have very 
sharp peaks. Sometimes one passes 
an artificial lake used for irrigation, 
sometimes a torli or an avenue lead- 
ing up to an ancient shrine. The 
sea, though near at hand to the r., 
is scarcely visible ; but Shodo-shima 
looms up beyond it for several miles. 
The cultivation of the rich plain 
through which the way leads, in- 
cludes indigo and sugar; and those 
curious in such matters will find 
establishments here and there where 
sugar-refining is carried on with 
very primitive machinery. 

The chief productions of this province 
of Sanuki are popularly known as " the 
three white thirjgs" (sam-paku), viz. salt, 
sugar, and cotton. The sugar industry is 
modern, having been introduced from 
Satsuma only half a century ago. 

Several rivers, too, are passed, 



426 



Boute 52.— North-Eastern Shikoku. 



with broad stony beds and but little 
water. From the vill. of Tazura 
onwards, which lies between Machi- 
da and 

Nagao (an electric tram con- 
nects this place with Takamatsu), 
the landscape becomes more fanci- 
ful, almost grotesque, with a sharp 
serrated ridge to the 1., forming the 
frontier between Sanuki and Awa, 
and to the r. and ahead a series of 
isolated hills rising abruptly out of 
the plain. Some of these are perfect 
cones, — many of them so steep as 
to appear inaccessible, — others are 
flat table-mountains, others again 
have various queer shapes, the 
whole assemblage forming one of 
the quaintest and most original 
scenes that even Japan has to offer. 
Meanwhile, the traveller bowls 
along rapidly over the fertile moun- 
tain-dotted plain by an excellent 
road. 

[From Hiragi, the old highway 
proceeds almost due W. to 
Kotohira, 9 ri, via Taki-no-wiiya 
(good accommodation), 5 ri 23 
cho, where there is fantastic 
rockery in the bed of the 
Aya-gawa. The whole way is 
interesting.] 

We now turn r., and reach the 
sea at Takamatsu (Inns, Taka- 
matsu Hotel, Tsunoda; Europ. 
restt., Tamura, opposite Post-0 ffice), 
capital of the province of Sanuki 
and formerly the seat of a great 
Daimyo, the walls of whose now 
desolate castle abut on the sea. 
A visit to his beautiful landscape 
garden (Kuri-bayashi Koeri), in the 
S. suburb of the town, should on no 
account be omitted. Lying, as it 
does, at the base of a high hill 
dotted by nature with pine-trees, 
and itself planted with thousands 
of pine-trees trained in fantastic 
shapes, its severe unity of design is 
nevertheless softened by the skilful 
introduction of other vegetation and 
by the use of water from natural 
springs. — An excursion to Yashima, 



the most curiously flat of all the 
mountains mentioned above, affords 
lovely views of the much indented 
coast line and islets. This moun- 
tain forms the E. side of the bay of 
Takamatsu, and is famous as the 
scene of one of Yoshitsune's great 
battles. The distance is about 2 ri, 
the electric tram to Shido being 
partly available. 

Takamatsu is well-provided with 
steam communication. One of the 
most delightful sea trips to be 
made hence is to Shodo-shima, 1 hr. 

Takamatsu-Kotohiea Kail way. 



Distance 




from 


Names of Stations 


Takamatsu 




Miles 


TAKAMATSU 


3$ 


Kinashi 


6 


Hashioka 


7J 


Kokubu 


i(H 


Kamogawa 


13J 


Sakaide 


151 


Utazu 


m 


MARUGAME 


19 


Nakatsu 


20J 


TADOTSU 


23£ 


Konzoji 


24J 


Zentsuji 


27£ 


KOTOHIRA 



Time, about 2 hrs. — This pretty 
little line of railway ruus S.W. 
inland, across a rich and smiling 
plain bounded by hills, some of them 
cone-shaped, and all recently planted 
with pines. From Sakaide onwards, 
it follows the coast for a short way 
through salt-pans, rice-fields, and 
sugar plantations. White sails and 
islands stud the offing. At 

Marugame (Inns, *Tamagawa- 
ro, Awa-kwan), the remains of a 
feudal castle crown an eminence 
near the station. The harbour 
being a poor one, comparatively 
few steamers call in here. The 
port of 

Tadotsu (Inn, *Hanabishi) has 
a beautiful approach from the sea. 



Tadotsu. Temple of Kompira. 



427 



Onomichi, on the mainland, may- 
be reached by steamer in 2^ hrs. 
The railway station stands near the 
landing. 

A spare couple of hours may be 
devoted to going out by jinrikisha 
to Byobu-ga-ura (also called Shiro- 
Jcata), — 23 chd, — the reputed birth- 
place of Kobo Daishi, whence there 
is a lovely view. 

Another interesting half-day's 
excursion from Tadotsu is to Iya- 
dani, — 1 ri 22 chd, of which about 1 
ri has to be walked across a steep 
wooded ridge, — a glen containing a 
cave where, according to tradition, 
Kobd Daishi devoted himself to 
prayer and meditation. The lights 
now shining there are said to have 
been lit by him. Notice the re- 
markable bronze statue of Kongo- 
Ken Bosatsu, 26 ft. high, a little 
below the temple. 

From Tadotsu station, the train 
backs out to run S.E. to Kotohira. 
The conspicuous high cone 1. is 
Iino-yama, also called the Fuji of 
Sanuki; the double one to the r. 
is Dainichi-yama. Zozu-san appears 
ahead to the r., — a long hog's-back, 
or, as the Japanese say " elephant's 
head," whence the name. The vill. 
of Kotohira stands at its foot, the 
shrine on its declivity. 

Kotohira, or Kcmpira. 

This shrine, the holiest in all Shikoku, 
was founded by Kobo Daishi early in the 
ninth century, and is the original from 
which countless others in almost every 
city of the empire derive their name. 
What little is known concerning this 
name and the deity who bears it, will 
be found on p. 48. The Shintoists took 
possession of the place about 1872 ; and 
in 187.5, the pagoda and most of the 
temples reared by Buddhist piety were 
razed to the ground, and replaced by new 
Shinto structures, while the few Buddhist 
buildings that remained were despoiled 
of their altars and gorgeous furniture, 
and turned over to the use of the rival 
cult. Though Kompira has thus suffered 
architecturally, the popularity of the 
shrine has been but little affected by the 
change ; for in Japan religious beliefs 
sit lightly on the people, who, provided 
there be an ancient shrine to resort to 
and purchase charms at, care little what 
form of faith may be there professed. 



The yearly total of pilgrims is said to 
reach the large figure of 900,000. The 
great annual festival, which takes place 
on the lOth-llth October, is a notable 
sight, now as of yore ; so is the Shioga- 
wa Matsuri on the 8th-l'Jth September. 
The lesser festival held on the 10th of 
each month is very lively, both at Kom- 
pira itself and at all the branch shrines 
in other provinces. The Sakura no 
Matsuri, or Cherry Festival, and the 
Momiji no Matsuri, or Maple Festival — 
recent institutions — are celebrated on the 
10th day of the 3rd and 10th moons, old 
style, respectively, the object being to 
give worshippers something at the seasons 
to which their fathers had for centuries 
been accustomed. The pilgrims return- 
ing from Kompira may be known by the 
long boards which they carry wrapped 
up in oil-paper inscribed with a large £± 
the first of the Chinese characters with 
which the name of Kompira is written. 

Of the numerous Inns at Kom- 
pira, the best are the *Tora-ya, 
* Kotohira Hotel, and Bizen-ya. 
The town lives completely by and 
for the pilgrims; and as we wend 
up the street of stairs leading to the 
temple, we see nothing on either 
hand but shops for the sale of 
gaudy boxes in which to enclose 
paper charms (fuda-bako), money- 
changers' stalls where the smallest 
denominations of copper may be 
obtained for offering at the various 
shrines or giving to beggars, ribbons 
for taking away as presents, and so 
on. The great two-storied gate 
(Daimon), which marks the entrance 
to the holy precincts, is a survival 
from Buddhist days. From here 
to the top, which stands 650 ft. 
above sea-level, there are 572 stone 
steps to be mounted. The way is 
lined with granite lanterns and a 
granite palisade, inscribed with the 
names of those persons who con- 
tributed funds towards the erection 
of the new temples. There are 
also pillars looking like mile-stones, 
similarly inscribed. 

Turning 1. we reach the Shamushb. 
or temple office containing a set of 
apartments with have, of late years, 
been elaborately fitted up. Admis- 
sion is obtained on application to 
the priests. Opposite the entrance 
is a gold screen with an eagle on a 



428 



Route 52. — North- Eastern Shikoku. 






pine-tree by Kansai. Then follow 
three rooms adorned with cranes 
and horses, tigers and Chinese sages. 
The side gallery is hung with old ex- 
votos among which may be mention- 
ed a Sarugaku dancer by Buncho, a 
monkey with young by the great 
artist Sosen, and carved and painted 
dragons ascribed to Hidari Jingoro. 
Next comes the Mikado's reception 
room with a raised floor and painted 
with landscapes. The compart- 
ments adjoining show the work of 
modern artists. The furthest suite 
comprises a small apartment for the 
Mikado, adorned with beautiful 
carvings and the walls painted with 
flowers ; there is also a room painted 
with irises, the open-work carvings 
in the upper panels of fans, cranes, 
and chrysanthemums being very 
remarkable. Do not miss the 
entrancing view across the plain 
from the corner window. In retur- 
ning, observe a curious ex-voto ex- 
hibited in one of the galleries, — a 
cock and hen with chicks made 
entirely out of small copper coins, 
and dating from the year 1820. 

Leaving the Shamusho, we reach 
near the top of the first two sec- 
tions of the way, 1. a building shelter- 
ing three sacred horses. At the 
top itself, a few steps further, stands 
the former Kondb, or Golden Tem- 
ple, of Buddhist times, now renamed 
Asahino Yashiro, that is, the Shrine 
of the Kising Sun, bereft of its 
former gorgeous altar which is 
replaced by a Shinto shrine of white 
wood, — a temple in miniature. It 
dates from early in the 19th century, 
and is all built of keyaki wood. 
Notice the elaborate carving of lions 
and peonies in front, and of lotuses 
and Chinese sages on the sides. 
Even the under side of the eaves of 
the top roof is carved. The metal- 
work also is excellent, and there are 
some pretty bronze lanterns in the 
grounds. All the end tiles have 
either the character ^ or else the 
Mitsu-domoe (see p. 94), which is the 
crest of Kompira. We then pass 



through a handsome bronze torii 
with a reeded base, through a gate 
called the Sakaki Mon, and by more 
granite palisading under the shadow 
of fine trees, before mounting other 
flights of steps. 

To the Sakaki Mon a somewhat curious 
legend attaches. Chosokabe, lord of Shi- 
koku, so it is said, when engaged in bring- 
ing the island under his sway during the 
Middle Ages, met with determined re- 
sistance from many of the great monas- 
teries, which at that period by no means 
confined themselves to spiritual weapons. 
When the rest had with difficulty been 
brought into subjection, he sallied forth 
against Kompira, the most powerful 
monastery of all. But the deities of the 
place assuming the form of a swarm of 
wasps, his army fled panic-stricken. In 
token of submission to the divine will, 
Chosokabe then vowed to raise in this 
place a gate made of sakaki, the sacred 
cleyera tree ; but pretending that he 
could find none large enough, he content- 
ed himself with building one out of the 
trunks of common trees stuck in upside 
down (saka-ki). That the Buddhist clergy 
were a thorn in the side of civil govern- 
ment at that unsettled period is histori- 
cally certain. That they were the sole 
chroniclers of the time is made manifest 
by the ascription of impiety to all who 
opposed them. 

Observe 1., at one of the landings, 
a curious little stone monument, — 
a tortoise supporting a square up- 
right stone with longitudinal aper- 
tures and wires. On these are 
strung wooden tickets, which serve 
as counters for the pilgrims who 
perform the rite called Hyaku-do, 
that is, running up and down the 
final flight of steps a hundred times. 
At the very top is the Honsha, or 
new Main Temple, commanding a 
delightful view of the plain towards 
Marugame, dotted with hills and 
watered by the Dokigawa. Beyond 
it is the Inland Sea, and beyond it 
again what looks like the mainland, 
but which in reality is a cluster of 
islands. The panelled ceiling of 
the Main Temple is partly adorned 
with cherry-blossoms in gold 
lacquer. By a curious whim of the 
artist, the trunk, also in gold and 
silver lacquer, from which the 
blossoms are supposed to grow, has 



Coast from Tadotsu to Matsuyama. 



429 



been placed outside on the 1., and 
the top branches also outside on the 
r. It dates from 1878. To this Main 
Temple are attached all the usual 
Shinto buildings. It has retained 
the Ema-do of earlier days, specially 
remarkable for the numerous pic- 
tures of junks and even steamers, 
offered by seamen whom Kompira's 
divine power has preserved from 
shipwreck. Among the ex-votos are 
several real anchors. The bronze 
horse near here was formerly rubbed 
on the nose by devotees who then 
rubbed themselves on any painful 
part of their own body, in the hope 
of getting it cured. Twelve cho 
further up the hill stands the Oku- 
sha (p. 41). 

Those travellers who take a 
special interest in Japanese art may 
terminate their exploration of Kom- 
pira by visiting the Museum, on 
the way down to the village. Many 
treasures are exhibited here, in the 
shape of gold lacquer boxes, incense- 
sniffing utensils (see article entitled 
" Incense Parties " in Things Japa- 
nese), ancient bells and tokko, and 
above all, kakemonos by Kose-no- 
Kanaoka, Cho Densu, Sesshu, and 
other old masters. 

A spare half-day at Kotohira may 
be devoted to the scramble up Zozu- 
san, for the sake of the splendid 
view. One should walk right along 
the ridge, about 1 m., to the highest 
point. 

About 1£ ri S. E. of Kompira 
(mostly practicable by jinrikisha) 
lies a large artificial lake — a re- 
servoir for purposes of irrigation — 
called Mano no ike, made by an 
earthen dam some 70 ft. high. There 
is a good view of the plain on one 
side, and of the bare furrowed hills 
called Kujuku-tani, bordering the 
province of Awa on the other, from 
the heights surrounding this old- 
fashioned, but creditable, piece of 
engineering. 

The speediest way back from 
Kompira to the mainland is to take 
train to Tadotsu, whence steamer. 
Some might like to wander further 



west to Matsuyama and Dogo, in 
which case they would avail 
themselves of the Itinerary given 
below as far as Saijo, whence by the 
first part of Eoute 53 reversed. 

3. — The Coast from Tadotsu 
to Matsuyama. 

The coast road to the south and 
west of Tadotsu lies off the usual 
lines of travel, because affording 
few special objects of interest. The 
views both of land and sea are, 
however, delightful throughout, and 
the way mostly excellent as far as 
Saijd, where the main road leaves 
the coast. The finest section is 
between Wadahama and Kawanoe, 
where it is built up from the water's 
edge with buttressing piers, which 
project from 50 to 100 ft. into the 
sea. Much of the rest is up and 
down, but jinrikishas are practi- 
cable. 

Itinerary. 

TADOTSU to:— Ri, Cho. 31. 

KamiTakase 2 34 1\ 

Jige 1 27 4} 

Kwannonji 1 9 3 

Wadahama 1 27 4} 

KAWANOE 2 26 6f 

Mishima 1 16 3£ 

Doi 3 9 8 

Izumi-Kawa 3 9 8 

SAUO 3 13 8} 

Nibukawa 3 15 8£ 

Sakurai 3 3 7J- 

IMABAItf 1 35 4| 

Hashihama 1 23 4 

Kikuma 4 23 11} 

H6jo 2 31 7 

Horie 1 35 4f 

MATSUYAMA.... 2 7 5} 

Total 43 18 106 



The best inns are at Wadahama, 
Kawanoe, Doi, Sumi-no-mura, Saijo, 
Imabari, and Matsuyama. 

Information about some of the 
places on the above Itinerary will 
be found in the next two Routes. 



430 



Route 53. — North- Western Shikohu. 



ROUTE 53. 



North- Westebn Shikoku. 

1. takahama. matsuyama. baths 
of dogo. 2. from matsuyama 

TO SAttd AND NIIHAMA. ISHI- 
ZUCHI-YAMA. 3. BESSHI. 

The two most interesting portions 
of Shikoku being the north-eastern 
and north-western corners, it is 
generally most convenient to ap- 
proach the latter by sea. The port 
is 

Takahama (Inns, Kido-ya, Yu- 
shinsha), which is reached by 
steamer either from Osaka and 
eastern Inland Sea ports, or from 
Beppu and Oita in the island of 
Kyushu, there being constant com- 
munication in every direction. 

A pretty walk of J hr. over 
the pine-clad hills, and affording 
splendid views seaward, leads to 
the ancient Buddhist temple of 
Taisanji, dedicated to Ju-ichi-men 
Kwannon. The main building is 
noted for its peculiar construction, 
no braces or wedges being employ- 
ed. This walk may be continued to 
Mitsu-ga-hama, popularly called 
Mitsu (Inn, *Kubota), whence rail 
or electric tram into Matsuyama. 

A miniature line of railway 
connects Takahama with Matsu- 
yama and Ddgo. The schedule is 
as follows : — 



Distance 

from 
Takahama 


Names of Stations 


Miles 
2 
5 
6 


TAKAHAMA 
Mitsu 
Komachi 
MATSUYAMA 



Travellers going direct to the hot 
springs of Dogo change cars ^at 



Komachi, whence the distance is 
only 1 J m. and where also electric 
tram may be taken. The time from 
Takahama to either Matsuyama or 
Dogo is 35 min. Another tram 
connects Matsuyama with Dogo 
direct, starting from the centre of 
the town near the foot of the castle 
hill. 

Leaving Takahama, it is a pretty 
little journey across the mountain- 
girt plain, in whose centre rises the 
wooded hill crowned by Matsuyama 
castle, which comes in view before 
reaching the intermediate station 
of Komachi. As Dogo, practically 
a suburb of Matsuyama, and situ- 
ated at the foot of a ridge of green 
hills, offers superior attractions, 
many prefer to go there direct. But 
some travellers might find it a good 
plan to let their guide go on alone 
to make arrangements for the night, 
while they themselves stay a few 
hours at Matsuyama to visit the 
castle. 

Matsuyama (Inns, *Kido-ya, 
Kochi-ya), capital of the province 
of Iyo, is a clean town remarkable 
for its Castle, formerly the seat of a 
Daimyo named Hisamatsu, 

Originally founded in the year 1603, it 
passed in 1635 into the hands of the Hisa- 
niatsu family, who were kinsmen of the 
Tokugawa Shoguns. The structure in its 
present shape is much more modern, the 
17th century building having been acci- 
dentally destroyed by fire in 1811, but the 
style of architecture faithfully preserves 
the ancient type of the Japanese "keep" 
(tenshu) and outer bastions. During the 
peaceful days of the Tokugawa regime, 
the Daimyo, finding residence in the 
castle inconvenient, usually lived in a 
mansion in the town, where also his 
retainers occupied a special quarter. 
V/hen all the feudal castles were taken 
over by the Imperial Military Depart- 
ment in the early days of the late 
reign, this one was selected, together with 
a very few others, as a specimen for pre- 
servation. The grounds and " keep" are 
known as Matsuyama Koen, and are open 
to the public. 

The castle occupies an almost 
impregnable position, commanding 
the whole surrounding country. 
The walls are all of granite, which 



Baths of Dogo. 



431 



makes the superstructure of wood 
and plaster look flimsy and 
theatrical. Three gates admit the 
visitor into the inner precincts, 
and the building itself has three sto- 
reys. The top commands a magni- 
ficent panorama. From the north 
window we perceive the sea, with 
the mainland of Japan in the dim 
distance, and turning eastwards 
Takanawa-yama rising above lesser 
pine-clad hills. From the east 
window we look at the vill. of Dogo 
and lofty Yunoyama, still loftier 
Ishizuchi-yama rising to its r., and 
continuing on into a long range of 
which the portion to the extreme 
r. is Kumayama, while immediate- 
ly in front of us lie a part of the 
town of Matsuyama and the long 
avenue bordering the course of the 
Ishite-gawa. On the south side 
are the town and the straight high- 
way that leads over Kumayama to 
Kochi, capital of the province of 
Tosa, besides many mountains of 
which the loftiest_ is Kannan-zan 
near the town of Ozu, and the long 
thin promontory that has to be 
doubled by ships bound for Uwa- 
jima. The most beautiful prospect 
of all is on the west, where we have 
the islet-studded sea, and on the 
horizon the large island of Oshima 
off the coast of Suwo. The long 
straight road on this side is that 
leading to the port of Mitsu, 
which place is itself seen, with 
the island of Gogoshima behind 
it, known also as "^the little Fuji " 
on account of its shape. Part of 
the town, too, is close at hand, well 
exemplifying one of the Japanese 
words for " town," joka, whose 
literal signification is " beneath the 
castle ;" and on each of the four 
sides we have the richly cultivated 
plain laid out in rice and other 
fields, and, quite near, the tiled 
roofs of the lower portion of the 
castle itself, rising from among 
aged pine-trees. 

Dogo (Inns, *Funa-ya, Chakin), 
is almost invariably preferred to 
Matsuyama by Japanese travellers 



visiting these parts. Indeed it is, 
next to Kompira, the favourite 
place in Shikoku on account of its 
hot springs, excellent inns, and 
pretty park. The baths are public, 
roofed together under a huge three- 
storied building surrounded by inns. 
The best of the baths, which vary 
in regard to strength and style, is 
the Tama-no-yu ; the hottest is the 
Ichi-no-yu, with a temperature of 
110° F. They are in the basement ; 
the second and third storeys contain 
dressing and resting rooms, where 
tea is served. Separate baths can 
be obtained at a cost of 3 yen or 2 
yen if the guest is staying at the chief 
inn. At Dogo one may purchase 
specimens of the pretty white 
faience (Tobeyaki) manufactured at 
Tobe, a vill. 4 ri distant, on the 
other side of the Matsuyama plain, 
on the highway leading over into 
Tosa. There are several temples 
and shrines near Dogo, the most 
noted being the ancient Buddhist 
temple of IshitejL 

Dogo is probably the most ancient 
bathing resort in the empire. According 
to the Japanese mythology, two gods— 
Onamuji and Sukuna-bikona — bathed 
here, and their example was followed by 
five Mikados from the legendary period 
downwards. Earthquakes have inter- 
rupted, but never entirely stopped, the 
flow of sulphur water, which, however, is 
not forthcoming in sufficient quantities 
to permit of its being led in to the 
various inns and private houses. 

2. — From Matsuyama to Saijo and 
Nhhama. Ishizuchi-yama. 

From Matsuyama or Dogo to 
Saijo, there is a choice of routes. 
One may either go by sea to the 
neighbouring port of 

Imabari or Imdbaru (Inn, Junsei- 
sha), an old castle-town pictur- 
esquely situated at the entrance 
to the narrowest channel of the 
Inland Sea, and thence by jinriki- 
sha for the rest of the way, 8 ri 17 
cho, with only one hill at which it 
is necessary to alight and walk ; or 
else one may go the whole way by 
land. This can be accomplished 



432 



Route 53. — North- Western Shikoku. 



in one day by train and jinrikisha 
with two coolies. The short rail- 
way journey affords pretty views. 



Distance 

from 

Matsuyama 


Names of Stations 


Miles 

3. 

4 

2f 
H 

8} 


MATSUYAMA 

Tachibana 

Kume 

Hirai 

Tanokubo 

YOKO-GAWARA 



Yoko-gawara takes its name from 
an immense dry river bed; here 
jinrikishas are laired 



Itinerary by road. 

YOKO-GAWAEA to :— 

Mi Cho 

Kawakami 24 

Kurumi 4 29 

Komatsu 2 23 

SAIJO 2 13 

Niihama (about) ... 3 18 

Total 13 35 



M. 
'1* 

51 



34 



Leaving the train, we plunge among 
the hills, and must constantly 
get out and walk. There is little 
distant view; but at one point — 
the highest of all — there is a pic- 
turesque gorge with strange rocks, 
where a small copper mine called 
Chiwara is passed. The last part 
of the journey, from Kurumi to 
Saijo, leads over a plain bordering 
the Inland Sea, largely devoted to 
the cultivation of the vegetable 
wax-tree. The broad and generally 
dry bed of the Kamogawa is crossed 
before entering 

Saijo (Inn, O-Sakana-ya). This 
quiet town stands a little way in- 
land, many acres of ground having 
been reclaimed from the sea within 
recent times and turned into rice- 
fields. The long sea-wall built to 
protect these fields, commands a 
pretty view. Saijo is the best 



starting-point for the ascent of 
Ishizuchi-yama, whose local deity 
is worshipped at the large temple of 
Mae-kami-ji, 20 cho W. of the town. 

[The expedition to Ishizuchi- 
yama (6,878 ft.) is usually 
made from Kurokawa on the 
flank of the mountain. The 
way from Saijo leads via the 
hamlet of Nonoichi, 2 ri (or 
preferably direct from Imabaru, 
7 ri 18 cho), both practicable for 
jinrikisha, whence it is a rough 
track over the Ohoki-toge (Inn, 
Matsuno-ya), 1 ri, where one 
may sleep. The road onward 
for 3 ri more, approximately, is 
better until just before reaching 
Kurokawa, where it becomes 
narrow, stony, and precipitous. 
Kurokawa possesses no inns, 
but good acommodation can be 
found, all the houses in the 
vill. affording shelter to the 
pilgrims during the season. 
The night may also be spent at 
a small shrine or at one of the 
various huts on the way up. 
Parts of the climb are so arduous 
that, in three places, double 
sets of gigantic chains are hung 
to assist pilgrims ascending 
and descending. The last 400 
ft. of the climb is almost 
perpendicular, and should not 
be attempted except by expert 
climbers, there being little or 
no foothold. A miniature Shinto 
shrine crowns the actual 
summit, which is a sharp peak 
consisting of a small pyramid 
of loose rocks surrounded by 
vegetation. No fewer than 
20,000 pilgrims are said to 
make the ascent annually. The 
mountain is covered with huge 
forests to the very summit. 
The view is magnificent, in- 
cluding almost all Shikoku 
(except on the Tosa side), the 
Inland Sea with its islands, 
and the province of Bizen on the 
mainland beyond. Five hours 
should be allowed for the ascent 



Copper Mine of Besshi. 



433 



from Kurokawa and 4 hours 
for the return.— Same-ga- 
mori, another high mountain, 
can be ascended from Saij5, the 
first part of the way being the 
same as that up Ishizuchi-yama. 
Near the summit is a small 
copper mine, where one may 
make shift to spend the night.] 

The neighbourhood of Saijd pos- 
sesses some noted mines. The 
antimony mine of Ichi-no-kawa is 
only 1 ri 26 end distant, about half 
of which can be done in jinrikisba. 
It will occupy half a day. 



3. — Besshi. 

From Niihama {Inn, Senju-tei), a 
day may be spent in visiting the 
more ancient and important Cop- 
per Mine of Besshi, accessible by 
a railway belonging to Mr. Sumi- 
tomo, the proprietor of the mine 
(Office at Niihama) ; total distance, 
14 miles. Warm clothing should 
not be forgotten, for Besshi lies 
near the summit of a steep gorge, 
at an altitude of from 4,000 to 4,400 
ft., and the excessive radiation due 
to the absence of all vegetation helps 
to make the nights, and even at 
certain seasons, the days bitterly 
cold. 

After a 6 J m. railway run, the 
station of Hateba is reached, whence 
to Ishi-ga-sanjo is 1 hr. on foot or 
by kago. There the train is again 
taken for 4 \ m. to Kado-ishiwara 
(40 min.). In this section the line 
runs up the rugged sides of the 
mountain, with the steep gradient 
of 1 in 18. From Kado-ishiwara to 
the mine is only 1 m., which is done 
in a car pushed by coolies. By 
turning to the r. at a point between 
Hateba and Ishi-ga-sanj5, Tonaru 
2 m. distant, is reached. An 
electric car connects the lower 
part of the Besshi mine and the 
inclined shaft which comes down 
from the summit of the mountain. 
There are wire ropes for the trans- 



portation of the ore and other goods 
between Tonaru and Kuroishi, the 
station on this side of Hateba. A 
strange contrast to the smiling 
scenery of the shores of the Inland 
Sea is aiforded by the grim desolate 
rocks of the metalliferous mountain. 
At the same time, there are lovely 
views on the way up and down. 

The refining works are on Shisa- 
ka-jima, a group of islets 9J m. 
from Niihama. Steamers belong- 
ing to the mine ply daily between 
Niihama and Onomichi (p. 403). 

The Besshi Mine, first worked in the 
year 1691, has belonged ever since to 
the Sumitomo family, who rank among 
Japan's few millionaires. The mine is 
one of the largest copper mines in the 
country, ranking with the Ashio Mines 
described on p. 211. The ore yields 
6 per cent of pure copper. Of actual 
miners there are only some 600 ; but the 
total number of labourers employed 
generally stands between 7,000 and 8,000, 
including women and children. A large 
proportion were born on the place, as 
were their fathers and grandfathers be- 
fore them, so that the mine is, in every 
sense, a family concern. They are well- 
cared for by the owner, who feeds them 
at his own expense, while their children 
are educated at schools provided by him. 
Only men are employed to get out the 
ore ; they work in three shifts of 8 hours 
each, while others, whose labour is of a 
lighter description, work in two shifts of 
12 hours each. The women are enxployed 
only for light tasks above-ground. Work 
is carried on constantly day and night, 
except at New Year's time. 



iU 



Eoute 54 — Valley of the Yoshino-gawa. 



ROUTE 54. 



Valley of the Yoshino-gawa. 

1. — from izumi-kawa to hakucht 
and tokushima. 2. feom besshi 
to hakuchi. 

The Yoshino-gawa — the largest 
river in the island of Shikoku — is 
formed by the junction of two 
main branches, — a northern one 
rising near the copper mines of 
Besshi, and a southern flowing down 
from the eastern flank of Ishizuchi- 
yama. The rapids of the main 
river, after the union of the two 
streams, form the principal attrac- 
tion of this route. Section 1 is the 
easier of the two, though even there 
the traveller must be prepared to 
dispense with good roads and com- 
fortable inns. Section 2 is very 
rough, and not to be recommended 
except to a sturdy pedestrian. 

1. — Fbom Izumi-kawa to Hakuchi 
and tokushima. 

Itinerary. 

IZUMI-KAWA to:— El Cho M. 

Doi(Irino) 3 11 8 

Mishima 3 

Kamibu 1 

^Negio 2 

Sano 1 

Hakuchi 2 

Ikeda 1 , i_ A 1 

Shuzuj Dy m 

Hashikura-ji 

Hiruma .... 

FUNATO 

> (by boat) 8 28 19 



2 S 



•2 6 
fig 



boat.. 



6 


7f 


— 


2* 


18 


6 


18 


3f 


15 


6 


— 


2h 


22 


1* 


18 


H 


24 


n 



Total 25 16 62J 



Whence 1 J hr. rail to Tokushima. 

The vill. of Izumi-kawa (see 
Itinerary on p. 429) has been 
chosen as the starting-point, 
because it is thought that those 
travelling by it will probably com- 



bine it with a visit to the Besshi 
copper mine. Jinrikishas are avail- 
able as far as Kamibu. The rest 
must be done on foot, excepting 
those portions marked " by boat " 
in the Itinerary. 

On leaving Izumi-kawa, the 
road leads among the wooded hill- 
ocks that here rise between what 
may be termed the Besshi range of 
mountains and the sea. At the 
hamlet of Sekinoto, the top of a 
hill, which it is necessary to walk, 
affords a charming glimpse of the 
Inland Sea, and beyond it to the 1. 
the long hog's-back of Z6zu-san, on 
which stands the great shrine of 
Kompira (see p. 427), to its r. the 
two peaks of Ho near Takamatsu, 
and straight ahead Hirayama, the 
pass which the traveller is about to 
cross in order to get over into the 
Yoshino-gawa valley. From 

Doi (Inn, Matsumoto-ya) on- 
wards, the beautiful Inland Sea is 
constantly visible, — blue, island- 
studded, and fringed by a narrow 
plain devoted to the cultivation of 
rice and sugar, while on the r. the 
mountain spurs descend like the 
legs of a centipede. A short-cut 
for pedestrians to Hashikura-ji, via 
the temple of Sankaku-ji, is passed 
r. just before entering 

Mi shim a (Inn, Nagao-ya.). 
Much paper is produced in this 
neighbourhood and further along 
this route, from the bark of the kaji 
tree (Broussonetia papyrifera). 

Our route follows the Kawanoe 
highway as far as the hamlet of 
Hiragi, and then turns sharp inland 
towards the green mountains. At 

Kamibu (Inn, Daiku-ya), the 
pedestrian portion of the journey 
is entered on, and we cross the 
Sakaime-toge, or " Frontier Pass," 
dividing the province of Iyo from 
that of Awa. The ascent, except 
just at the end, is gentle on the Iyo 
side and the scenery rather tame. 
The prospect improves on the Awa 
side, where the vill. of Sano is 
reached, and the path follows the 
course of a small affluent of the 



The Rapids. Temple of Hashikura-ji. 



435 



Yoshino-gawa, perpetually crossing 
and recrossing it till we arrive at 

Hakuchi (Inn, Hama-ya). This 
vill., prettily situated just above the 
confluence of the two streams, 
forms the starting-point for the 
boat journey down the Rapids of 
the Yoshino-gawa. (There is also 
an excellent road along the river 
bank.) In summer flood-time, 
when the waters rise and rage, one 
might spin down to Tokushima at 
the river's mouth in a single day. 
At ordinary times it will take as 
long to get to Funato, scarcely 
more than half that distance. 
Moreover, there is the temple of 
Hashikura-ji to be visited, which 
detour will occupy some little time. 
A plan recommended in late autumn 
with a low river, is to make a short 
first day by boating from Hakuchi to 
Shuzu (1 hr. 20 rain.), there alight- 
ing to visit Hashikura-ji, and walk- 
ing down thence to Hiruma, where 
a halt for the night is made, the 
luggage being sent on there in the 
boat. Next day, 5| hrs. boat down 
from Hiruma to Funato, whence the 
railway is availed of and the more 
sluggish half of the river journey 
avoided. 

Ikeda (Inn, Matsumata), a town 
noted for its tobacco, lies on the r. 
bank of the river, between the two 
best rapids, called respectively 
Ikeda- Se and Suwo. The latter 
word, which signifies " carmine," 
is said to preserve the memory of 
a battle fought here, when the 
river ran stained with blood. Just 
after shooting No. 4, we come in 
view of what looks more like a 
castle than a temple, high up on 
the hill to the 1. ; then comes rapid 
No. 5, and we land at Shuzu for 
the 18 cho ascent to this landmark, 
which is the celebrated shrine of 

Hashikura-ji, dedicated to the 
Gongen of Kompira. There is an 
Inn here. 

The curious name TTashi-kura-ji, which 
means literally "chop-stick store-house 
temple," is accounted for by a legend to 
the effect that KoboDaishi, when he came 



to open up this district and bring it into 
subjection to Buddha, first exorcised a 
troupe of demons, and was then met by 
the god Kompira, who pointed out to him 
a cave in the mountain side, which was set 
apart as a store-house for the reception of 
the innumerable chop-sticks used in the 
presentation of food offerings by the 
faithful at the neighbouring shrine on 
Zozu-san (commonly called Kompira or 
Kotohira, after the god's own name). 
Kobo Daishi forthwith erected a sumptu- 
ous temple on the spot, as an Oku-no-in- 
or Holy of Holies, connected with the 
shrine of Kompira. This was in A.D. 828. 
A great fire destroyed most of Hashikura- 
ji's grandeur about 1825 ; but some build- 
ings, amongst them a pagoda, are in 
course of construction. The annual 
festival is celebrated on the 12th Novem- 
ber. There is a lesser one on the 12 th 
March. 

The steep way up to the priests' 
residence is first along an avenue of 
cherry-trees, and then through a 
wood. The view from the top is ex- 
tensive. The principal temple 
stands still higher up, and is called 
Chinju no Do, because dedicated to 
the tutelary (chinju) deity, Kompira 
Dai Gongen. 

After concluding our inspection 
of the temple, we descend the hill 
and reach the vill. of 

Hiruma (Inn, Shikiji-ya), where 
boat is again taken for a delightful 
half-day down the river. All the 
way from Ikeda onwards bamboo 
groves will be noticed, planted 
for trading purposes. A rapid, 
called Kama-ze, or " the cauldron," 
is soon reached, after which Tsuji, 
a good-sized vill., is seen on the 
r. bank. From here on for some 
10 cho, the bank is lined by 
boulders of a greenish gray 
schist and by cherry-trees and 
azalea bushes, which, with the high 
hills on either side and the swift 
limpid stream, make the scene 
resemble a Japanese landscape 
garden, especially in April when 
the blossoms are out. The valley 
opens out very gradually, and there 
come broad white stony beaches. 

Opposite the vill. of Kirai, just 
before shooting one of the rapids, 
there is a welcome break in the 
hills r., admitting a glimpse of 



436 



Route 55. — From Matsuyama to Uwajima. 



higher mountains further south in 
the direction of lofty Tsurugi-san. 
Those with plenty of time to spare 
might alight here to visit the water- 
fall of Dogama Nam Taki, about 
2£ ri distant, which is believed by 
the simple countryfolk to have an 
" owner " (nushi), that is a resident 
deity, who assumes the form of a 
serpent. In this part of the river, 
small trout (ai) may often be seen 
in great numbers. The mount- 
ainous district to the r. during the 
greater part of this day's voyage, is 
called Iya (whence the name of the 
river Iya-gawa). It is noted for two 
things. — tobacco and (so at least say 
their kind neighbours) the boorish 
stupidity of its inhabitants. 

Wakimachi (Inn, Inahara) is a 
town of considerable size. (Good 
cross-country road hence N. to 
Takamatsu, 13 ri.) The railway line, 
of which 

Funato (Inn, Asahiro, at ferry) 
is the present terminus, follows the 
opposite or r. bank of the river, 
passing through Kamoshima, Ishii, 
and other smaller places. After 
Kamoshima the hills retire on either 
side, the river and the plain both 
widen, and a long succession of 
villages leads to 

Tokushima (p. 424). It is best 
to arrange so as to reach this town 
during the forenoon, in order to 
have a few hours for seeing it, as 
the steamers hence to Kobe always 
leave late at night. 

2. — From Besshi to Haktjchi. 

Apporoximate Itinerary. 

BESSHI to :— Bi. M. 

Tomizato 6J 15} 

Oku-no-in 4J 11 

Shinritsu 1 2£ 

Yamashiro-dani 3 7 \ 

HAKUCHI _3 1\_ 

Total 18 44 

Tomizato and Shinritsu have poor 
inns, and Oku-no-in^ has such ac- 



commodation as a country temple 
can afford, The path is very rough, 
but the mountainous region trav- 
ersed is picturesque. The trip may 
be accomplished in two days by 
making an early start. From Haku- 
chi onwards, the itinerary of Sec- 
tion 1 of this route is followed 
through less difficult country down 
to Tokushima. 



ROUTE 55. 



Western Shikoku from Matsu- 
yama to Uwajima. 

Itinerary. 

MATSUYAMA to :— Bi Ghb M. 

Gunchu 3 17 8J 

Nakayama 5 4 12£ 

Uchinoko 3 22 8§ 

Niiya 1 27 4i 

OZU 1 33 4| 

HigashiTada 4 34 12 

Unomachi 1 32 4} 

Yoshida 4 5 10 

UWAJIMA 2 22 6fr 

Total , 29 16 72 



Most of the way is rough and 
hilly. Train is available between 
Matsuyama and Gunchu (35 min.) ; 
jinrikishas between Uchinoko and 
Ozu, also for the latter part of the 
way to Unomachi from a hamlet 
called Higashi Tada ; but the rest 
must be done on foot, the whole 
journey requiring 2 days. Another 
plan is to take steamer from Taka- 
hama, (seep. 430), either the whole 
way to Uwajima, which occupies 
a few hours, various small places 
being touched at on the way, or else 
only as far as the port of Nagahama, 
whence by road up the valley of the 
Hijikawa to Ozu, and on by the 
Itinerary given above. 

Ozu (Inn, *Togi-ya) stands in a 



Route 56. — Ways to and from Kochi. 



43? 



plain surrounded by high hills, and 
possesses an ancient castle. 

Yoshida (Inn, Imabari-ya), too, 
was the seat of a small Daimyo. 

Uwajima (Inn, Imura-ya) is a 
quiet old-fashioned town on the sea, 
with a pretty islet called Kyushima 
in the bay. 

It was the seat of a branch of the Date 
family, remarkable alike for its talents 
and its longevity. An ancient custom 
forbids the catching of whales on this 
part of the coast, because they are sup- 
posed to perform the useful service of 
driving the sardines towards the land. 
So high is the esteem in which the sar- 
dines of Uwajima are held, that in feudal 
days a special boat laden with them was 
sent yearly as an offering to the Shogun 
at Yedo. 

Uwajima retains the ruins of a 
small castle, standing on a low 
densely wooded hill, the summit of 
which occupies an area of some 
10 cho square. Visitors are admit- 
ted to it only on Sundays. The 
view from the hill includes Jishi- 
koku-yama on which stand eighty- 
eight images of Kobo Daishi, re- 
presenting the Eighty-eight Holy 
Places founded by him in Shikoku. 
A visit to them is considered equiva- 
lent to making the entire lengthy 
pilgrimage. 

These Eighty-eight Holy Places (Shikoku 
Hachi-ju Hak-ka-sho) play a prominent 
part in the religions life of the island of 
Shikoku, over every district of which they 
are scattered, bands of pilgrims being 
constantly on the move from one to the 
other. The temples are dedicated to vari- 
ous Buddhist deities. The pilgrims carry 
a little cloth to sit on {shiri-tsube), which 
anciently formed part of the simple 
luggage of all wayfarers, a double thin 
wooded board (fuda-basami) serving to 
hold the visitiDg-cards which they paste 
to the doors or pillars of each shrine, 
and a small straw sandal worn — of all 
extraordinary places — at the back of the 
neck, and intended to symbolise that 
great saint and traveller, Kobo Daishi, in 
whose footsteps they follow. 

Some little distance from the 
castle, stands a villa belonging to 
the Date family, and containing a 
small but beautiful landscape gar- 
den. The public are permitted to 



view it in spring, when the wistaria 
is in bloom. — The favourite ex- 
cursion from Uwajima is to the 
waterfalls of Nametoko, about 2 ri 
distant by a very steep path. 



ROUTE 56. 



Ways to and from Kochi. 

1. the city and environs. 2. from 
matsuyama or dogo to edchi. 

3. from kochi to kotohira. 

4. the coast road from toku- 
shema to kochi. 5. from uwa- 
jima to kochi. 

1. — The City and Environs. 

Kochi (Inns, *Emmei-ken, Eu- 
rop. dishes ; *J6sei-kwan, Kiya), 
capital of the prefecture of the 
same name and of the province of 
Tosa, is a large city standing in a 
plain almost surrounded by ranges 
of hills, even on the side towards 
the sea. This and its deep double 
bay give it a highly picturesque 
situation, which the traveller should 
admire from the top of the Castle 
hill, — chiefly for the land view, — 
and from the Aoyagi-bashi bridge 
for the delightful prospect of the 
bay and lower-lying land. Of the 
Castle, there remain the imposing 
walls and one turret. In the 
opposite direction, beyond Aoyagi- 
bashi, 1 m. from the inn, stands a 
hill called Godai-san, crowned by 
the ancient Buddhist monastery of 
Chikurinji, one of the Eighty-eight 
Holy Places of Shikoku. A Shinto 
shrine (Shokonsha), stands hard by. 
Kochi is noted for its breed of long- 
tailed fowls, the tail feathers of 
some of which attain to the extraordi- 
nary length of 12 ft. (see details in 



438 



Route 56. — Ways to and froth Kochi 



Things Japanese). Coral is found 
off the coast at a distance of 60 or 
70m. to the westward. The harbour 
of Susaki in that direction is better 
than Kochi, and affords fair accom- 
modation. 

The best walk (2 hrs.) from Kochi 
is to the top of Washio-yama, a hill 
1,500 ft. high, commanding a beauti- 
ful view. On the other side of the 
Kagami-gawa, lies the burial-place 
of the old lords of Tosa. Three 
miles to the N. E. of Kochi is the 
waterfall of Taklmoto, accessible by 
jinrikisha. The citizens often make 
boating excursions down the land- 
locked bay. 

Owing to the length and moun- 
tainous character of the ways thither 
by land, Kochi is usually approached 
by steamer from Osaka, touching at 
Kobe. The passage takes 16 hrs., 
but south-easterly winds not infre- 
quently cause detention ; and the 
shallowness of the bay necessitates 
waiting for the tide and a sub- 
sequent long transit in small boats 
to the shore. For other details 
regarding the steamer service, see 
p. 397. 

2. — From Matsuyama ok Dogo 
to Kochi. 

Itinerary. 

(From Dogo 1J m. more.) 

MATSUYAMA to :—M Cho M. 

Kutanichi 3 12 %\ 

Top of the Misaka 1 24 4 

Kumamachi 2 4 5 J 

Kami-Kuroiwa 2 32 7 

Nam (Hinoura) ... 1 13 3£ 

Yanai-gawa. 1 11 3J 

Kuzu 1 15 3£ 

Kawaguchi 5 25 14 

Ochi(byboat) 4 — 9| 

Ino „ „ 8 — 19J- 

KOCHI 2 30 7 

Total 34 22 84J 

Time, 3 days ; but taking jinriki- 
sha the whole way instead of boat, 



2 days, sleeping at Kuzu. Road 
excellent throughout. 

The intending pedestrian may 
get over the first 3| m. of plain by 
availing himself of a small line of 
railway which joins Matsuyama 
with Morimatsu, not far from the 
foot of the pass, time 20 min. 
Instead of boat from Kawaguchi, 
one may continue on by jinrikisha 
the whole way into Kochi, which is 
abt. 3 ri less, — distance from Ka- 
waguchi about 12 ri ; but the best 
plan is to take boat to Ino, where 
electric tram into Kochi is available. 
Good accommodation at Kuma- 
machi (Inn, Tanikame-chi), fair at 
Ochi, and Kawaguchi ( Inn, Kataoka), 
poor at the other villages. 

The journey is a pretty one, first 
across the wide cultivated plain of 
Matsuyama, then up the Misaka 
(short-cuts for pedestrians), till a 
height of 2,400 ft. is reached with 
nice views looking backwards of 
plain, and sea, and islands. The 
rest of the way is a descent — varied 
by occasional hills — at first through 
a rich and smiling upland, then, 
after Kumamachi, down the steep, 
green, narrow valley of the Miyodo- 
gawa, which grows sterner in aspect, 
the hills walling it in higher, the 
rocks of graphite schist more pictur- 
esque, as one goes on : — the way- 
farer would deem himself climbing 
towards greater elevations rather 
than descending towards the sea. 
Such hamlets and solitary home- 
steads as appear from time to 
time, are mostly perched high 
up on narrow uplands near the 
hill-tops. The peasants grow 
quantities of maize, which produces 
a curious effect in autumn when the 
cobs are hung up to dry in reddish 
yellow masses on .large square 
frames. Notice the clumsy cart- 
wheels in use here, cut in disc 
shape from a solid tree trunk. The 
river-bed is littered with white 
boulders, alternating with deep- 
green placid pools. At Yanai-gawa, 
a ferry leads over to the 1. bank. Just 
beyond, at an affluent r., stands the 



The Hyodo-gawa. Kdchi to Kotohira. 



439 



power plant which provides Matsu- 
yama and Dogo with electric light. 
After Kuzu, where a small bridge 
marks the boundary of the provinces 
of Iyo and Tosa, the white foliated 
stone is mostly replaced by red with 
occasional traces of marble. But 
the scenery preserves its character. 
Mile after mile the same green 
abruptness with hamlets perched 
high overhead, the same precipitous 
side valleys with little waterfalls 
from time to time, the same pictur- 
esque rockery, the same perfectly 
clear stream. 

At Kawaguchi boats may be 
taken. Copper is here brought 
from the mine of Yasui, 5 ri up an 
affluent to the north. The trip 
down the swift limpid river, with 
pretty white rocks, and high hilly 
walls, and restful green, and 
frequent small rapids down to the 
very end, is easy and pleasant. One 
may either do the whole distance to 
Lib in a single day by starting early, 
or else conveniently break it at Ochi, 
which is the best village after Ku- 
mamachi, and where other boats 
will be found. Ind is the head- 
quarters of a considerable paper 
trade. — A curious way of doing 
business, which says much for the 
honesty of the country-folk, may be 
observed hereabouts. Small baskets 
and boxes containing fruit and 
others food-stuffs are placed by the 
wayside. The price is marked upon 
them, and passers-by deposit the 
money for what they take away. 

3.— Acboss Shikoku fbom Kochi 
to kotohika. 

Itinerary. 

KOCHI to :— Pa Chb M. 

Eyoseki 3 28 9J- 

Shigeto 2 34 1\ 

Sugi 3 9 8 

Otaguchi 16 6 

Okubo 2 8 5} 

Kammyo 2 — 5 

Kawaguchi 2 30 7 

Hakuchi 2 3 5 



IEEDA 1 — 2} 

Inohana 3 19 8£ 

Togawa 2 20 6J 

KOTOHIRA 2 23 6£ 

Total 31 10 76£ 



The journey can be accomplished 
in a jinrikisha with two coolies in 
2 days. Fair accommodation at 
Otaguchi and Ikeda ; poor at the 
other places. 

Leaving Kochi, we find the road 
excellent and flat, and the landscape 
composed of a cultivated plain with 
numerous hills all around. Just 
after Rybseki a gradual incline, the 
JS r ebiki-saka, 1} to 2 ri long, takes 
us up to Takimoto, about 2,000 ft. 
high, whence the descent is continu- 
ous, first down an affluent of the 
southern branch of the Yoshino- 
gawa, and then down that river 
itself. The scenery is pleasantly 
rural, green hills bordering the 
valley on either side. The prettiest 
bit of the first day's journey is soon 
after Shigeto, where great rocks, and 
green trees, and the white stems of 
dead trees, and clear green pools of 
placid water combine to form a 
landscape garden on a large scale. 
The Yoshino-gawa is reached and 
crossed at Ananai, about 1 m. before 

Otaguchi (Inn, Orikichi). The 
river, here still quite small, widens 
out near the frontier of the province 
of Awa at Okubo. Yery curious is 
the persistently laminated charac- 
ter of the rock all down this valley, 
so that one might often mistake 
rocks for petrified tree trunks. 
Below Kammyo masses of white 
rock hem the stream in, while above 
the traveller's head rise cliffs, 
wooded through precipitous. In 
such places, the road is carried along 
on walls built out from the cliff 
side. All this neighbourhood is 
striking, but the road is liable 
to injury from sliding debris. At 
Kawaguchi the two branches of the 
Yoshino-gawa join; soon, too, the 
Matsuo-gawa flows in r. from an- 
other of the countless high lonely 



440 



Route 56. — Ways to and from Kochi. 



valleys of this mountainous island. 
The river does not cease to be pic- 
turesque, but it becomes broader, 
and loses its rocky character by the 
time we reach Hakuchi ferry, 
whence (or from Ikeda) boats des- 
cend the rapids, as described on p. 
435. (Some travellers might prefer 
to do that trip rather than continue 
on by the present route to Kotohira. 
It is a choice between the respective 
attractions of the rapids and of the 
Kompira shrines.) From 

Ikeda [Inn, Matsumata), the first 
mile and a half leads down the 
r. bank of the river and across 
the ferry to Shuzu, with the temple 
of Hashikura-ji glistening white on 
the high hill opposite (description 
on p. 435). The pedestrian may 
visit it without adding anything to 
his day's distance ; but the jinriki- 
sha road branches away to the 1. up 
a more gradual incline. The hills 
are high in all this district, the 
valleys deep, the scenery rather 
grim though green. Inohana is a 
mere hamlet at the top of a pass 
nearly 3 ri long and about 1,550 ft. 
high, whence there is a continuous 
descent the whole way to Togawa, 
short-cuts saving a large percentage 
of the distance. From Togawa the 
way undulates on to Kotohira, and 
the cone of the Fuji of Sanuki and 
other gracefully shaped mountains 
that come in sight introduce us to 
scenery of a quite different charac- 
ter from that of either of the two 
preceding days of the journey. For 
the shrines of 

Kotohira or Kompira, see p. 427. 



-Coast Koad feom Tokushima 
to Kochi. 



4.- 



TOKUSHIMAto:— Ei Cho M. 

Komatsu-jima 2 21 6J- 

Ha-no-ura 2 9 5J 

Tomioka 1 22 4 

Tachibana-ura 2 15 

Yugi 4 8 10i 

Hiwasa 2 32 7 



Mugi 4 18 11 

Asakawa 2 15 6 

Shishikui 3 7 7| 

Kan-no-ura 29 2 

None 2 3 5J 

Sakihama 3 26 9 

Ukitsu (Muroto) ... 4 14 lOf 

Kirikawa 2 5 5 J 

Nabari 3 35 9| 

Yasuda 1 12 3J 

Aid 3 3 7£ 

Wajiki 2 19 6£ 

Akaoka 2 34 7J 

Gomen 2 15 6 

KOCHI... 2 33 7 

Total ...58 1 141f 



The above Itinerary is given for 
the sake of any one desiring to 
go off beaten tracks. The road 
being subject, in parts, to floods 
and consequent landslips, its con- 
dition varies considerably from 
year to year. The accommodation, 
too, is mostly poor. 

The trip includes some very 
rough travelling, but affords com- 
pensations in its variety and pic- 
turesqueness. Komatsu-jima and 
Tachibana-ura are noted for their 
beauty ; for Tomioka see p. 424, the 
part also on nearing Mugi is pretty, 
with a series of passes, and glimpses 
of the sea. 

[Near a vill. called Hirai, several 
miles inland from here, but 
difficult of access, is the large 
waterfall of Todoroki-no-taki, 
much visited by pilgrims, who 
find accommodation at a tem- 
ple. There are said to be as 
many as ninety-nine other 
waterfalls higher up the valley. 
The return should be made to 
Asakawa down some rapids.] 

From Mugi to Asakawa is com- 
monly done by water, because the 
path is too bad. Beyond this 
place, the road passes through fine 
scenery, where deep fiord-like bays 
run back from the sea. The stage, 
too, between None and Sakihama, 



From Uwajima to Kochi. 



441 



though difficult, is rewarded by 
bizarre rock formations and scenery 
altogether wild and romantic. 
Some towering monoliths announce 
the approach to Cape Muroto, whose 
outer point is separated by a high 
pass which is ascended in zigzags. 
A similar descent leads to Ukitsu, 
beyond which viU. the coast be- 
comes flat, and the road skirts 
temples and cemeteries that are 
sheltered by noble pine-trees. 

5.— From Uwajima to Kochi. 

Itinerary. 

UWAJIMA to:— Hi Chb M. 

Yoshino 5 — 12J 

Shimoyama 2 — 5 

Ono 5 21 13J 

Tanono 4 15 lOf 

Kitagawa 2 30 7 

Kubokawa 3 16 8J 

Niita 1 18 3f 

Kure 4 31 llf 

Susaki 3 10 8 

Heiwa 3 23 9 

Takaoka 2 16 6 

Ino 1 22 4 

KOCHI 2 30 7 

Total 43 16 106 



Yery little of this road is prac- 
ticable for jinrikishas, nor are the 
inns good. Part of the way along 
the Shimanto-gawa is picturesque. 

A good pedestrian might avail 
himself of the hilly coast road pass- 
ing through Gosho and Nakamura, 
and offering delightful scenery and 
passable accommodation. Small 
steamers may be taken here and 
there. The Itinerary is as follows 
as far as Kubokawa, where the pre- 
vious Itinerary is joined : — 

UWAJIMA to :— Bi Chb M. 

Iwamatsu 3 29 9£ 

Kami-Hataji 1 15 3 J 

Kashiwa 2 20 6£ 

GOSHO 3 3 7J 

Ippon-matsu 2 15 6 

Sukumo 3 4 7J 

Arioka 3 5 7J 

NAKAMUBA 3 31 9J 

Irino 2 25 6| 

Kami-Kawaguchi 1 22 4 

Saga 3 16 8£ 

KUBOKAWA 5 32 14 J 

Total 37 1 90J 



SECTION Y. 

KYOSHO AND OUTLYING 

ISLANDS. 

(Routes 57 — 68. 




f|'jf>a7 



FOR MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 



TOYOOO ENGRAVING OFFICE TOKYO 



Route 57. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 



445 



ROUTE 57. 



Nagasaki and Neighbotjbhood. 

1, — Genebal Bemakks on the 
Island oe Kyushu. 

Kyushu, literally "the Nine Provinces," 
derives its name from its nine-fold divi- 
sion into the provinces of Buzen, Bungo, 
Chikuzen, Chikugo, Hizen, Higo, Satsuma, 
Osumi, and Hyuga. This, the most south- 
erly of the four large islands constitut- 
ing Japan proper, played a prominent 
part in the very earliest national legends, 
and has continued to play a great part 
in the national history. "It was hence 
that Jimmu Tenno set forth with his 
vassals on his career of adventure and 
conquest, hence that the great expeditions 
of the Empress Jingo Kogo and of Hide- 
yoshi against Korea were undertaken and 
carried to a successful issue. It was upon 
Kyushu that Mendez Pinto and the Portu- 
guese missionaries landed; here, there- 
fore, that acquaintance was first made 
with Europeans, Christianity, fire-arms, 
and other matters hitherto unknown to 
Chinese civilization. When afterwards, 
in the first decade of the 17th century, 
the Catholic missionaries were driven 
out and Christianity extirpated, Dutch 
merchants managed to gain" the favour 
and confidence of the powerful Tokugawa, 
and so maintained, under humiliating 
conditions, a commercial monopoly for 
more than two centuries at Nagasaki."* 
Under the feudal rule of the Tokugawa 
Shoguns, the Dai my o of Satsuma was the 
most powerful of their feudatories, and 
since the establishment of the new 
regime in 1868, the Satsuma men have 
engrossed the chief offices, both military 
and civil. — Travellers will do well to re- 
member that the Kyushu people frequent- 
ly divide the ri (2| miles English), not 
into 36 chb as in the rest of the empire, 
but into 10 go. One go is therefore 
almost exactly £ mile. 

2. — Nagasaki. 

Hotels. — Bellevue Hotel, Cliff 
House. 

Japanese Inns. — Ueno-ya, in Man- 
zai-machi ; Midori-ya, in Imamachi. 

Restaurants. — Europ. food : — Sei- 
yo-tei, in Nishi Hamano-machi ; 
Jap. food : — Koyo-tei, in Kami 

* Quoted, with a few orthographical 
emendations, from Dr. Rein's Japan. 



Chikugo-machi ; Fukki-ro, in Suwa 
Matsuno-mori. 

Custom-house and Post and Tele- 
graph Office and Foreign Firms. — 
On the Bund. 

Consulates. — British and German, 
on the Bund; American and Rus- 
sian, on the hill. 

Clubs. — Nagasaki Club, Inter- 
national Club. 

Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai 
Bank; Chartered Bank of India, 
Australia, and China (Holme, Binger 
& Co., Agents); also Agents for the 
International Banking Corporation ; 
Busso-Chinese Bank. 

Churches. — Anglican, Methodist 
Episcopal, Beformed Church of 
America, Soman Catholic. 

Newspaper. — " Nagasaki Press." 

Theatre. — Maizuru-za, in Shin- 
Daiku-machi. 

Foreign Steamers. — Japan Mail 
Steamship Co. (Nippon Yusen Kwai- 
sha), also Agent for Great Northern 
Steam Ship Co.; Canadian Pacific 
Mail, Occidental and Oriental, 
Pacific Mail, Toyd Kisen Kwaisha, 
Norddeutscher Lloyd, (Holme, Bing- 
er & Co., Agents). 

Local Steamers. — From Nagasaki 
to Shimabara, Amakusa and Misumi 
for Kumamoto, daily. To the Goto 
Islands, twice weekly. To Hirado, 
Iki, and Tsushima, twice weekly. 
To Kagoshima every other day. — 
Shipping Agents : Kikuya, Edo- 
machi ; Fukushima-ya, Hokabura- 
machi ; Tsu-un Kwaisha, Deshima. 

Silk. — Tokushima-ya, Fujise, Kii- 
no-kuniya, all in Hamano-machi. 

Porcelain. — Koransha, in Deshi- 
ma ; Kaneko, in Moto-Kago-machi. 

Tortoise-shell, Cloisonne, and Ivory. 
— Futaeda, in Higashi Hamano-ma- 
chi ; Yezaki, in Uono-machi ; Saka- 
ta, in Moto-Kago-machi ; Naga- 
shima, in Funadaiku-machi. 

Embroideries. — Hakusui, in Kago- 
machi ; Imamura, in Funadaiku- 
machi; Daimyo, Kumabe, both in 
Moto-Kago-machi. 

Photographs. — Tamemasa, in 
Moto-Kago-machi; Ueno, in De- 
shima. 



446 



Boute hi.— Nagasaki and Neighbourhood. 



Fans, Screens, Toys, etc. — Honda- 
ya, Tamemasa, Mizoto, all in Moto- 
Kago-machi. 

Curios. — Nagashima, in Funa- 
daiku-machi; Honda-ya, Sato, Ni- 
shida, all in Kago-machi : Ikeshima, 
in Kojiya-machi. 

Commercial Museum. — In Rokasu- 
machi. 

Nagasaki derives its naine from Naga- 
saki Kotaro, to whom this district, then 
called Fukae-no-ura, was given as a fief 
by Yoritomo at the end of the 12th 
century. It was a place of no impor- 
tance until the 16th century, when the 
native Christians migrated thither in 
crowds, and it became one of the chief 
marts of the Portuguese trade. After the 
final expulsion of the Portuguese and 
Spaniards in 1624, only the Dutch and 
Chinese were permitted to carry on trade 
here under galling restrictions. The 
Dutch factory was situated at Deshima, 
then an islet at the head of the harbour, 
but now absorbed into the foreshore. 
When Napoleon seized Holland in 1810, 
and England annexed the Dutch colonies, 
this remote factory was the only spot in 
the world over which the Dutch flag still 
flew. 

The Japanese town stretches for about 
2 miles to the N. of the former Foreign 
Settlement, which occupies the flat land 
on the E. side of the harbour. The 
private residences of most of the mer- 
chants stand on the slopes of the hills 
behind. On the opposite side of the har- 
bour are the Engine Works of Akuno-ura 
and three large docks, which together 
with a patent slip on the E. side, belong 
to the Mitsubishi Company. These docks 
have built mail steamers of 21,000 tons, 
and employ some 5,000 hands. The har- 
bour, one of the prettiest in the Far 
East, is a narrow inlet about three miles 
in length, indented with numerous bays 
and surrounded by wooded hills. It 
is thoroughly sheltered, and affords an- 
chorage for ships of all classes. The en- 
trance does not exceed | m. in width. 
The principal approach is from the N. W., 
between a number of islands, those con- 
spicuous to the S. being Iwosbima with 
its lighthouse, Okishima apparently join- 
ed to Iwoshima, but in reality separated 
from it by a narrow boat passage, Koyaki- 
jima, and Kage-no-shima, on which last 
also stands a lighthouse. On the N. side 
of the channel are Kami-no-shima and 
Takaboko (Pappenberg). Recent histori- 
cal criticism by Dr. L. Riess would seem 
to render no longer tenable the tradition 
that from the cliffs of this latter island, 
less than three centuries ago, thousands 
of Japanese Christians were precipitated 
because they refused to trample on the 
cross, 



Nagasaki is noted for a delicious 
kind of jelly {kin-gyoku-tb) made 
from seaweed. The fish-market 
has the reputation of being one 
of three which show the greatest 
variety of fish in the world. A 
notable feature of the harbour is 
the coaling of steamers by gangs 
of young girls, who pass small 
baskets from hand to hand with 
amazing rapidity. One of the 
" Empress " steamers has had 1,210 
tons of coal put on board in this 
way in 3 J hours, which is at the rate 
of 372 tons per hour. 

Temples. — The principal Shinto 
temple is that of O-Suwa, known 
to foreigners as the " Bronze Horse 
Temple," from a votive offering of 
a bronze horse which stands in the 
courtyard. The bronze torii at the 
foot of the steps is one of the largest 
in Japan. -The garden commands 
a fine view. The Buddhist temples 
of Nagasaki offer little interest ; but 
the great camphor-trees in the 
grounds of some of them deserve 
notice, more especially the huge 
specimen near Daitokuji. 

Festivals. — Nagasaki has always 
been noted for the animation of 
its religious festivals, two of which 
are still observed with all the pomp 
of former days. 

1. Suwa no Matsuri (commonly called 
Ku-nichi), usually held on the 7th, 8th, 
and 9th October. The accounts given 
by the old Dutch writers agree in almost 
every detail with the spectacle as wit- 
nessed at the present day. 

The arrangement for the fete is as fol- 
lows : — The town is divided into seventy- 
seven wards (machi), including Maruyama 
and Yoriai-machi, the two licensed pleas- 
ure-quarters. These quarters are repre- 
sented every alternate year, principally 
by the geisha, who always lead the pro- 
cession, the remainder being made up of 
dancing and acting parties from ten of 
the seventy-seven wards, whose turn it 
happens to be to contribute towards 
the festival. The procession starts from 
O-hato at daybreak, marching up to 
O-Suwa, where dancing, etc., chiefly by 
children, is carried on until noon. The 
second day is an off-day, and is occupied 
by the processions parading the town and 
performing at the houses of the principal 
residents, The third day is a repetition 






Walks and Excursions. 



447 



of the first, except that the order is 
reversed, the procession going from 6- 
Suwa to O-hato. The gods of 6-Suwa are 
enshrined in large lacquered palanquins, 
which, borne on the shoulders of stal- 
wart peasants, are rushed up and down 
the temple steps amidst a scene of the 
wildest excitement. 

2. Bon Matsuri, or " the Feast of Lan- 
terns," when the spirits of the dead are 
supposed to revisit the scenes of their life 
on earth, is celebrated on the 13-15th July. 
The numerous cemeteries on the hill- 
slopes surrounding the city are festooned 
with lanterns, which are lighted each 
evening at dusk, when the relatives of 
the dead resort thither to perform their 
devotions. At midnight on the third 
night, straw or bamboo boats, many of 
large size, furnished with lighted lanterns 
and laden with offerings of various edibles, 
are launched from the upper end of the 
harbour for the spirits to take passage 
back to the other world. 

3. Gion Matsuri is a fair lasting three 
days. It takes place on the 13th, 11th, 
and loth of the 6th moon, old style. 

4. The Kite-flying Festival is held on 
the 10th day of the 3rd moon, old style, 
on Kompira-yama, a conical hill about 

1 hr. climb from the N. end of the city. 
The object of the kite-fliers is to cut 
down each other's kites with strings 
coated over with ground glass. 

3. — Walks and Excursions in 
the Neighbourhood. 

The favourite walk is across the 
narrow peninsula to the vill. of 
Mogi on the Gulf of Obama, 2 ri, 
practicable also for jinrikishas with 

2 men. There is a semi-foreign 
hotel at Mogi, and fine sea views. 
From Mogi a small steamer runs 
daily to Obama in about 3 hrs, 
calling at small ports en route. In 
summer a steamer runs direct 
between these places daily, taking 
about 1\ hours. 

The cold saline spring known as 
Urakami Onsen is a popular 
resort lying 5 m. from Nagasaki, 
or about \ hr. from Michino-o 
station. It possesses some good 
tea-houses and pleasure-grounds. 
Urakami, like most of the hamlets 
in this valley, is inhabited by 
Roman Catholics. 

Christianity seems to have never been 
entirely eradicated here, notwithstanding 



the ruthless persecution of the faith in 
the first half of the 17th century. — Not 
far off, at Narutaki, was the residence 
of the illustrious German savant von 
Siebold, who, in the early part of the 
19th century, did so much by his volumi- 
nous writings to excite the curiosity of 
Europe with regard to the as yet mysteri- 
ous empire of Japan. A stone, with an 
inscription in English, marks the spot. 

The Waterfall of Kwannon- 
no-taki forms a popular picnic 
resort. The way thither leads over 
the Ilimi-toge (itself a good objec- 
tive point for a shorter walk, \\ 
hr.) to the vill. of Yagami, whence 
the road turns 1. towards the 
hills, and is practicable for jinriki- 
shas, distance about 4 ri. The 
temple here, dating from A.D. 
1730, is sacred to Kwannon. The 
cascade shoots over a rugged cliff 
into a deep pool about 50 ft. below, 
while the steep slopes on the 
bank of the stream flowing from 
the fall are built up in terraces 
planted with cherry-trees, camellias, 
and maples. 

Of the various hills in the neigh- 
bourhood of Nagasaki, the sharp 
cone of Chiji-yaina (1,418 ft.), 
generally known to foreign resi- 
dents as " the Virgin," some 4 miles 
S. of the town, affords the widest 
panorama. The walk there and 
back takes about 5 hrs. The most 
prominent mountains seen from the 
top are: — E., Unzen-dake on the 
promontory of Shimabara, and N.E., 
Taradake in Hizen. The nearer 
summits include Inasa-yama and 
Iwaya-dake on the opposite side of 
the harbour; next Kompira-yama, 
rising beyond the town, to whose r. 
in succession are seen the triple 
summits of Mitsuyama, (commonly 
known as the "Three Sisters," or 
"the Champion"); Hoka-zan, to be 
recognized by its rounded top, and 
Hiko-san, distinguishable by a 
fringe of trees crowning its summit 
and extending partly down its W. 
slope. Looking seawards, the eye 
sweeps over a succession of beauti- 
ful islets, while the horizon to the 
W, is bounded by the blue outline 



448 



Route 58. — Unzen and Shimabara. 



of the Goto group ; to the N. lies the 
Bay of Omura, to the E. the Gulf of 
Shimabara. 

The island of Takashima, 
noted for its Colliery belonging to 
the Mitsubishi Co., lies about 8 
miles S.W. of the entrance to the 
harbour of Nagasaki, while Naka- 
no-shima and Hashima — smaller 
coal-producing islands — lie about 
1 mile further out. The mines were 
first worked towards the middle of 
the 18th century, but were not 
developed till 1867, when taken in 
hand by British experts. 



KOUTE 58. 



Unzen and the Shimabara 
Peninsula. 

1. unzen. 2. from nagasaki to 
shimabara. 

1. — Unzen. 

Unzen is the collective name of 
the three hamlets of Furu-Unzen, 
Shin-yu, and Kojigoku, lying near 
the wonderful solfatara of Ojigoku 
in a hollow of the range called 
Unzen-dake. Each hamlet stands 
about 10 min. from the other, Shin- 
yu has several foreign hotels,— the 
Yumei, the Unzen, the Kyushu, and 
the Shin-yu, — besides several good 
Japanese inns with private baths for 
foreigners, and European furniture. 
Kojigoku also has a foreign hotel, 
the Midori-ya. 

This remarkable spot, 2,550 ft. 
above the sea, noted for its sulphur 
springs, its varied and beautiful 
scenery, and its bracing air, has 
become a sanatorium, not only for 
Nagasaki and neighbourhood, but 
for the residents of the China 
treaty ports. A golf course lying 20 



min. from the hotels, has been laid 
out by the prefectural authorities. 

The usual way of reaching Unzen 
from Nagasaki is by jinrikisha to 
Mogi (see p. 447), thence steamer 
daily to Obama direct in 1£ hr. 
during summer; at other times in 
about 3 hrs., calling at Chijiwa. Or 
one may take train from Nagasaki 
to Isahaya and Ainomura, whence 
jinrikisha to Chijiwa, — 1J n, from 
which village up to Unzen direct is 
a walk of 3 ri ; or one may go on by 
jinrikisha 2 ri further along the 
shore to Obama. Thence it is pos- 
sible to reach Unzen, 3 ri more, by 
jinrikisha or motor car. 

Obama consists almost entirely 
of inns (*Ikkaku-ro Hotel, Europ. 
style), and is much frequented on 
account of its chalybeate waters, 
which possess great efficacy in 
rheumatic complaints. The village 
has a picturesque aspect when 
viewed from the sea, the houses 
being built on a high stone em- 
bankment. The temperature of the 
water at its source is 160° F., but 
in the baths it is lowered to 106° F. 

The road from Obama to Unzen 
turns off about \ m. south of the 
Hotel and leads to Shin-yu. Be- 
yond the hamlet of Sasa-no-toji it 
emerges on an open turf slope, 
which commands a splendid view 
towards the Nagasaki peninsula. 
The path then winds to the r. and 
soon the conspicuous cone of Taka- 
iwa strikes the eye. We next reach, 
1J ri from Sasa-no-toji, a small 
plain where Fugen-dake and Myo- 
ken-dake, two of the highest peaks, 
come into view. 

At Furu-Unzen stands the dilapi- 
dated Buddhist temple of Ichijo-in, 
rebuilt on a smaller scale after its 
destruction during the Christian 
troubles of 1637. Paths lead to all 
the solfataras. The springs and 
fumaroles extend in a seething and 
boiling mass for nearly one mile 
along a hollow at the foot of fir- clad 
hills, and the volume of steam 
which rises from them forms a 
striking contrast to the dark ever- 



Unzen. Shimabara. 



449 



green of the background. Their 
activity varies at different times, 
water, which under ordinary cir- 
cumstances is thrown up from 2 
ft. to 5 ft., being often projected to 
double that height. Fanciful names 
have been given to most of the gey- 
sers, the finest being called Dai Kyo- 
kwan, or the Loud Wailing ; that 
which bears the name of Chido 
Jlgoku, or Second-class Hell, has a 
temperature of 204° F. Several of 
the springs cannot be approached, 
on account of the insecurity of the 
footing. 

The finest of the mountain walks 
in the neighbourhood is up the 
extinct volcano on whose flank 
Unzen lies. The summit consists 
of three chief peaks, viz., Kunimi- 
dake (4,900 ft.), Fugen-dake (4,830 
ft.), and Myoken-dake (4,500 ft.). 
Fugen-dake is visited first, and the 
others taken or omitted at pleasure 
on the way back. The ascent for 
the first hour is a moderate climb to 
the shoulder on the r. of Kunimi- 
dake. The path then descends 
through thick brushwood, and on 
reaching the opposite side of 
the mountain, ascends for 50 
min. to a perpendicular rock 50 
ft. high. Ten min. more bring 
one to the summit of Fugen-dake, 
which commands a very extensive 
view, stretching from the provinces 
of Higo and Satsuma on the one 
hand to the distant group of the 
Got5 Islands on the other, and 
including, in addition to the vol- 
canoes of Aso-san and Kirishima- 
yama, innumerable bays and isl- 
ands which together form a pano- 
rama of indescribable beauty. The 
second peak, Myoken-dake, is reach- 
ed in 2 hrs., from Fugen-dake, the 
way lying partly through brush- 
wood. Turning the shoulder of 
Fugen-dake, and passing some 
caves and large vats used for stor- 
ing ice, the path descends into a 
deep ravine, probably an old crater, 
the bottom of which is a mass of 
huge boulders interspersed with 
trees. Wide crevices and slippery 



rocks here demand the climber's 
careful attention. The ascent to 
Myoken-dake from this ravine is 
very steep; but the summit, like 
that of Fugen-dake, commands a 
magnificent view. The third peak, 
Kunimi-dake, is surmounted with- 
out difficulty, and the return to 
Eojigoku accomplished in 2J hrs. 
The walk to Fugen-dake alone and 
back can be done in 3J hrs. 

The nearer neighbourhood of 
Unzen affords numerous pretty 
walks, one of the best being to the 
summit of Taka-iwa, where there is 
shelter under a natural arch of gran- 
ite, with a glorious view over the 
Kuchinotsu end of the peninsula. 
It is an easy trip for ladies, and a 
convenient spot to picnic at. Time 
required, 3 hrs. from the hotels. 

A pleasant excursion may be 
made from Unzen to the port 
of Shimabara, some 5 ri distant. 
After passing Kara-ike, a tarn lying 
on the way to Fugen-dake, the road 
descends through a fine rocky 
valley, the conspicuous summit of 
Taka-iwa being seen ahead. It 
then climbs a steep slope, and 
brings in view the Gulf of Shima- 
bara and several mountains in the 
province of Higo. Below lies a 
fertile plain, stretching away to- 
wards the S. part of the peninsula, 
a portion of the island of Amakusa 
being also seen towards the S. 
The descent to the plain is mostly 
over turf, amidst boulders and rocks, 
and then through a forest of pines, 
firs, and camphor-trees. On reach- 
ing the hamlet of Minokawa (2 ri), 
the road becomes less steep, and 
10 cho further fairly level. Beyond 
Nakakoba, we obtain a grand view 
of the precipices of Maeyama (also 
called Kueyama), which rise like gi- 
gantic walls between the town of 
Shimabara and the main summits 
of the volcano. 

It is stated that, some time in the 
eighteenth century, this side of Maeyama 
was hurled down by an enormous land- 
slip and thrown forward into the sea, 
burying part of the town of Shimabara. 



450 



Route 59. — TJie Inland of Hirado. 



and forming the innumerable islets which, 
now clad with pine-trees, give such a 
picturesque appearance to the harbour. 



2. — Nagasaki to Shimabara. 

A short description of the journey 
by rail from Nagasaki to Tsahaya 
will be found on p. 452 ; thence by 
branch line at present running as 
far as Kojiro, 17 miles. 

The road between Kojiro and 
Shimabara, 11 miles, lies for the 
most part near the shore of the gulf, 
and affords from different points 
magnificent views of the Shimabara 
mountains. The view across the 
gulf is also very beautiful. 

From the earliest antiquity, the Gulf of 
Shimabara has been famed for the ignis 
fatuus which appears from time to time 
upon its surface. According to local ac- 
counts, the phenomenon occurs twice 
yearly, viz., on the 30th day of the 7th 
moon and on the 30fh day of the 12th 
moon, old style, from some time after 
midnight until the approach of dawn. On 
the former date, the lights extend from 
the coast near Yatsushiro to Amura in 
Amakusa ; on the latter date, from Kuchi- 
notsu to Tomioka. Some witnesses affirm 
the light to be a single ball of fire rising 
perpendicularly from the surface of the 
sea to a height of 60 ft., while others 
describe it as a line of pale red globes 
drifting up and down with the tide. " Sea 
fireworks" and "thousand lanterns" are 
popular names for these mysterious lights. 
The standard classical name, shiranu-hi 
(or shiranui, as it is more generally pro- 
nounced), signifies "the unknown fire." 
Scientific investigators, though attribut- 
ing the phenomenon in a general way to 
electricity or phosphorescence, have not 
yet discovered any sufficient explanation 
of its restriction to this special locality, or 
of its periodicity. Probably the alleged 
facts need further careful sifting. 

Shimabara, formerly the castle- 
town of a Daimyd, consists of two 
large divisions known respectively 
as Minato, or the " Port " (Inn, Nam- 
puro), and J oka, or the "Town" 
(Inns, Seiyo-kwan, Kunimichi-ya). 
The traveller should be careful to 
state to which division he wishes to 
go, for the two together are con- 
tinuous for upwards of 1 ri in 
length. 



[The Itinerary of the coast road 
from Obama via Kuchinotsu is 
as follows : — 

OBAMA to :— Bi Cho M. 

Minami Kushiyama. 2 14 6 

KUCHINOTSU 3 35 9f 

Higashi Arie 5 16 13J- 

SHIMABAKA 

(Minato) 4 12 10J 

Total 17 23 39J 

Obama (see Bte 58). 

Kuchinotsu (Inns, Sezume- 
ya ; Mitsui Club Hotel) affords 
good sea bathing. The steamer 
route from Mogi is preferable 
in fine weather, time, about 
3 hrs. Unzen may be reached 
from here by a road partly 
practicable for jinrikishas, 6 ri 
8 cho (15J m.). 

Arima. 

This place, situated between 
Kuchinotsu and Shimabara, was the 
scene of one of the most tragic 
incidents in the partly agrarian, 
partly religious troubles of the 17th 
century. Some 20,000 men, women, 
and children, mostly Christian pea- 
sants who had withdrawn for safety 
behind the walls of the Castle of 
Hara in this locality, were put to 
the sword on the 12th April, 1638, 
only 105 being taken prisoners. 
This massacre practically stamped 
out Christianity in Japan for over 
two centuries. For details, see 
Murdoch's excellent History of 
Japan, Vol. II.] 



KOUTE 59. 

The Island of Hirado. 

Small steamers ply along the 
deeply indented coast from Sasebo 
(see p. 452) to the island of 
Hirado ; but as they run irregularly 
and the calls at numerous ports on 
the way occupy the greater part of 
a day, the traveller is recommended 



Route 60. — By Rail from Nagasaki to MojL 



451 



to resort to the road. This is practi- 
cable in jinrikisha with two men 
from Sasebo to Hinoura, crossing 
thence by boat to Hirado, — in all 
about 7 hrs. 

The road first passes through the 
long drawn out town of Sasebo, 
emerging, for a few miles, into 
open country. Beyond the small 
port of Saza, in whose vicinity are 
some slate-quarries and coal-mines, 
it zigzags over three ranges of hills, 
which command splendid views. 
After a steep descent to the fishing 
vill. of Emukai, with beautiful 
peeps of bays and inlets, the road 
again winds up a hill, from the 
summit of which the eye roams 
over countless islets below, the 
Goto in the distance, and the E. 
end of Hirado on the 1. It is 
advisable to rest at the tea-houses 
here before undertaking the long 
descent — locally estimated at 3 ri — 
to Hinoura. The ferry across the 
strait to Hirado (Inn, Isono-ya), 
occupies 20 min. The current is 
strong. 

Hirado, called Firando by the old mari- 
ners, had great importance in the 16th 
and 17th centuries, when it served as an 
emporium of trade between Japan and 
foreign countries. Besides the Dutch 
factory, there was an English one, which, 
in the year 1611, was in charge of one 
Captain Richard Cock (or Cocks). The 
names of Will Adams (see p. 106), Captain 
John Saris y and other adventurers are all 
connected with this spot, where now 
scarcely a trace of Europeanisation 
remains. The Daimyo's castle, too, is in 
ruins, nothing standing but the walls and 
a watch-tower (much dilapidated) which 
commands a lovely view. Hirado gives 
its name to a celebrated variety of blue 
and white porcelain. 

A considerable portion of the 
town, including the district formerly 
occupied by the Dutch, was burnt 
down in 1906, and nothing now 
remains of the Settlement except 
some stone walls and a large 
oblong-shaped well (curiously 
bridged over in the middle by 
stone) in Hirado, and a foreign 
tomb on the beach at Kawachi, 
12 m. distant. 



The return journey may be varied 
by taking jinrikisha from Hinoura, 
through Osaki, Mikuriya, and Ima- 
buku to Imfflri, in about 9 hrs. 
There are several steep ascents and 
descents on the way to Imabuku, 
but offering fine views of bays 
and islands. A number of coal- 
mines passed at intervals, produce 
surface coal of inferior quality. For 

Imari (see id. 453). 



ROUTE 60. 



The Kyushu Bailway 
from Nagasaki to Moji. 



^ a ^ 

Is a 


Names 
of 


Ee marks 




Stations 




Miles 


NAGASAKI 




3 


Michino-o 




5 


Nagayo 




10 


Ogusa 




1*4 


Xikitsu 


( Change for 


18i 


Isahaya 


\ Obama and 






( Unzen. 


25| 


OMTJRA 




301 


Matsnbara 




36 

39| 


Sonogi 
Kawatana 




m 


Haenozaki 




481 
50| 


Haiki 


Jet. for Sasebo. 


llikawachi 


551 


Arita 


( Change for 
( Imari. 




59f 


Mimasaka 




641 


TAKEO 




681 


Kitakata 




73 
761 
781 
82 


Yamaguchi 

Ushizu 

Kubota 


f Change for 
( Karatsu. 


SAGA 


87f 


Kanzaki 




921 


Nakabaru 


( Change for 
| Kuinamoto 


97| 


TOSUJct 


98£ 


Tajiro 


( & Kagoshima. 


1031 


Haruda 




106^ 


Futsuka-ichi .... 


For Dazaifu. 


lll| 


Zassho-no-kunia 




115| 


Hakata 





452 



Route 60. — By Rail from Nagasaki to Moji. 



117 


Yoshizuka 




117£ 


Hakozaki 




121 


Kashii 




126| 


Koga 




129£ 


Fukuma 




135£ 


Akarna 




143 


Onogawa 


( Jet. for Colli- 


U5i 


Orio 


\ ery line; also 
( Hiko-san. 




H8f 


Kurosaki 




152 


Okura 




155| 


Kokura 




160 


Dairi 




163 


MOJI 





Persons bound for Kobe, but 
objecting to the sea, can perform 
the whole journey by rail, taking 
this line as far as Moji, 9 J hrs., 
then steam-ferry across the narrow 
strait of Shimo-no-seki, and finally 
along the N. shore of the Inland Sea 
by Sany5 Railway in 11} hrs. (see 
p. 396). There are sleeping and 
dining cars on certain trains. For 
the sea journey from Nagasaki to 
Kobe, see pp. 398-401. 

After Michino-o, the line curves to 
the r., and runs downhill to Nag ay o 
station, which is nearly 2 m. from the 
vill. of the same name on the gulf. 
One and a half m. further is a big 
tunnel, and then another run down- 
hill to the beautiful landlocked Bay 
of Omura, whose shores the railway 
closely skirts for many miles, afford- 
ing a series of delightful views 
of water, mountains, and pine- clad 
islets. It turns inland for a short 
distance at Kikitsu in order to take 
in the important town of 

Xsahaya {Inn, Fuji-ya, 10 chb 
from station). This place lines 
both banks of the Hommyo-gawa, a 
river which flows into the Gulf of 
Shimabara, and is here spanned 
by two handsome stone bridges of 
Chinese design, one arched, the 
other of pillars and beams. On 
the r. bank stands a Shint5 temple 
with prettily laid-out grounds. 

Omura (Inn, Matsushima-ya) 
was formerly the residence of a 
Daimyo. The walls of the castle are 
in good preservation, and the finely 



wooded grounds afford a charming 
place to saunter in. Paintings and 
various other relics of bygone days 
are here preserved. 

Sonogi (Inn f Yamaguchi-ya). 

[Electric tram or jinrikishas can 
be taken hence to Uresliiiio 
[Inns, *Shio-ya ; *Omura-ya), 
3 ri 5 chb (7f m.), noted for its 
hot springs. The road leads 
along a gently rising valley for 
about 3 miles, after which it 
crosses the steep Sonogi-toge in 
zigzags (two men for the pass 
necessary). Fine views are 
obtained of the terraced hills 
and countless hamlets from the 
top of the pass. The springs 
gush forth on the bank of a 
river, which flows past the 
village. A long wooden shed 
encloses the public baths, which 
are divided into three classes. 
There is also a good private 
bath with foreign dressing 
room. Those interested in 
faience might visit a factory 
at Uchimura — 45 min. distant 
by an easy road — where the 
whole process of manufacture 
of Arita porcelain can be seen. 
The railway can be rejoined at 
Takeo (see next page), 3 ri 27 
cho (9J m.) for which 2 hrs. by 
jinrikisha should be allowed. 
The road is fiat.] 

Specially pretty is the approach 
to Haiki, where the railway follows 
the bank of a narrow, river-like 
strait. 

[A branch line runs from Haiki 
to Sasebo (Inn, Ikezuchi-ya, 
Europe, food), 5} m., an impor- 
tant naval station, whose 
harbour resembles that of Na- 
gasaki in size and appearance. 
The arsenal is not open to the 
public] 

Arita (Inn, Kawachi-ya) is 
picturesquely situated, lying in a 
narrow valley amidst a cluster of 



Arita. Takeo Baths. Saga. 



453 



pine-clad peaks. It has long been 
noted for its Potteries, the clay 
coming from Izurai-yama in the 
immediate vicinity. Other clay 
from Hirado and the Goto Islands 
is now generally used for glazing. 

These potteries were established in 1592 
under the superintendence of a Korean 
brought over by Nabeshiina, Dainiyo of 
Hizen. "But not till the year 1620," says 
Captain Brinkley, R.A., the greatest au- 
thority on such matters, " do we find any 
evidence of the style for which Arita 
porcelain became famous, namely, de- 
coration with vitrinable enamels. The 
first efforts in this direction were com- 
paratively crude; but before the middle 
of the 17th century, two experts— G-oro- 
shichi and Kakiemon — carried the art to 
a point of considerable excellence. From 
that time forward, the Arita factories 
turned out large quantities of porcelain 
profusely decorated with blue under the 
glaze and coloured enamels over it. Many 
pieces were exported by the Dutch, and 
some also specially manufactured to their 
order for that purpose. Specimens of the 
latter are still preserved in European 
collections, where they are classed as 
genuine examples of Japanese keramic 
art, though beyond question their style 
of decoration was greatly influenced by 
Dutch interference." 

[Imari {Inns, Imabuku-ya ; Ta- 
jimaya) is distant from Arita 
8 J m. by a branch line. It lies at 
the bottom of a small bay, and 
gives its name (Iman-yaki) to 
the porcelain produced at 
Arita, which is brought here 
for export. Imari itself was 
never a seat of the manufac- 
ture.] 

Takeo [Inn, Toyo-kwan, semi- 
Europ.) derives its reputation from 
its hot spring. The best baths are 
of black and white marble, and 
have dressiug-rooms attached. Im- 
mediately above the baths, rises a 
hill affording a pretty view ; it is 
crowned with curious crags, among 
which sit numerous stone Buddhas. 
Another point from which to obtain 
a view is Shiro-yama, a hill formed 
of white porphyritic rock, whence 
its name. — (A pretty excursion may 
be made from Takeo by tram (2 
hrs.) to the temples of Yutoku no 
Inari at Kashima, and of Shoin). 



Retaining pleasant green hills 
on the 1. which gradually recede, 
the line soon enters the rice plain 
to which this rich province owes 
its prosperity. One year, it is said, 
produces sufficient rice to feed the 
inhabitants for five years. 

Kubota. 

[A branch line, 23 m. in length, 
leads to the port of Karatsu 
{Inn, *Kaihin-in, with Europ. 
food and hot sea-baths), whence 
much coal is exported. A 
splendid pine-grove stretches 
along the beach to the N. of the 
town.] 

Saga (Inn, Eitoku-ya), an old 
and celebrated castle-town, was 
formerly the seat of the Nabe- 
shima family, lords of Hizen. The 
chief feature of the place is the 
Shimbaba Park, which contains 
shrines dedicated to the ancestors 
of the Nabeshimas. The temple 
court is full of monuments in 
stone, bronze, and porcelain. A 
festival is held annually on the 10- 
11th April. Of the old castle little 
now remains ; but a splendid effect 
is produced early in August, when 
the extensive moats are rilled with 
lotus-flowers. 

Saga was the scene of one of the small 
civil wars which followed the great re- 
volution of 1868, when feudalism was 
making its last struggle against Imperial- 
ism and Europeanisation. Eto Shimpei, 
sometimes Minister of Justice under the 
new Imperial Government, having re- 
turned to his home in Saga, raised the 
standard of revolt, expecting all Kyushu 
to follow him. In this, however, he was 
disappointed, and the rising was put 
down in ten days. Eto and ten other 
ringleaders were condemned to death, 
and their heads exposed on the pillory. 
This took place in 1878. 

Kanzaki is a large and flourish- 
ing town, noted chiefly for the 
manufacture of vermicelli and 
macaroni. 

Tosu (Inn, Asahi-kwan, at sta- 
tion) is an insignificant place. 

This district, largely devoted to 
the cultivation of the vegetable wax- 



454 



Route 60. — By Bail from Nagasaki to Moji. 



tree, is left behind just before 
reaching llaruda, where the line 
suddenly enters the foot-hills of the 
high range on the 1., which divides 
the provinces of Hizen and Chiku- 
zen. Futsuka-ichi is the station 
for 

Dazaifu, a little under 1 ri to the 
N. by tram. There id the option 
of staying at the hot springs of 
Musashi (Inn, Enju-kwan), only 3 
cho from the station, or at Dazaifu 
itself, where the concourse of 
pilgrims has created a village with 
numerous good Inns (Izumi-ya, 
best). 

Dazaifu is one of the most celebrated 
places in Kyushu, both for historical rea- 
sons and on account of the great Shinto 
temple dedicated to Tenjin, the model 
from which are copied the Kameido 
temple at Tokyo and other shrines to 
the same god throughout the empire. 
In early times, Dazaifu was the seat of 
the Governor-Generalship of the island of 
Kyushu, — a post which, though apparent- 
ly honourable, was often used as a form 
of exile for offenders of high rank. The 
most celebrated of these exiled governors 
was Sugawara-no-Michizane, who is wor- 
shipped under the name of Tenjin (see 
p. 54). 

The temple grounds contain a 
number of excellent bronzes repre- 
senting bulls, mythological mon- 
sters, etc., and many magnificent 
camphor-trees. Chief festivals on 
the 24-25th days, second moon, and 
22-25 th days, eighth moon, old style. 
The main building was restored in 
J 902, in honour of the thousandth 
anniversary of Sugawara's death. 
The sights of Dazaifu may easily be 
seen in 2 hrs., so that it will be 
sufficient to stop between trains. 

The prominent hill, crowned by 
a single fir-tree, which stands out 
to the 1. at Futsuka-ichi station, is 
called Tempai-zan, and commands 
an extensive view. From it Michi- 
zane, looking towards Kyoto, wor- 
shipped the emperor by whom he 
had been exiled, — a circumstance 
which has given its name to the 
place. 

Fukuoka (Inns, Ryojun-kwan, 
Sakai-ya), formerly the seat of the 



Kuroda family, lords of Chikuzen, 
is now capital of a prefecture. 
Daimy5-machi and Tenjin-machi, 
extending from the castle to the 
prefecture, are exceptionally fine 
streets. The castle is occupied by 
a garrison. The Public Garden 
(Nishi Koen) deserves a visit, for the 
sake of the views which it affords. 
At the base seawards stands a small 
shrine, and at low tide a pleasant 
walk leads back to the town round 
the promontory. 

Atago-san may be ascended, for 
which J hr. will suffice. Jinriki- 
shas can be sent round to the 
western base, whence, continuing 
the excursion, we reach (2 ri fur- 
ther) Mei-no-hama. From here a 
detour should be made r. to a shrine 
of Bishamon, situated at the top of 
a lofty well- wooded hill, which juts 
out into the sea and affords a 
charming view : — time, 1 J hr. The 
road runs alternately by the sea 
and through fir plantations. 

The neighbourhood of Fukuoka 
boasts two waterfalls. One, called 
Kwaran-taki, at the source of the 
Moromi-gawa, is distant about 4 1 ri, 
of which 4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama 
can be done in jinrikisha. The fall 
measures about 100 ft. in height. 
The other, called Raimn no Toro- 
daki, on Ikazuchi-yama, lies 3 ri off 
by jinrikisha, and 1 J ri on foot. 

Hakata (Inns, *Matsushima-ya, 
Europ. food ; Beni-kwan) is the 
port of Fukuoka, the two practically 
forming but one city, as they are 
separated only by the river Naka- 
gawa. Formerly Hakata was the 
commercial quarter, Fukuoka the 
samurai quarter. This twin city, 
one of the most prosperous in 
Kyushu, is chiefly noted for its silk 
fabrics, called Hakata-ori. The 
best may be seen at the Matsui 
Shokko and at Ito-gen. These 
stuffs, some of which have a pattern 
imitating the shimmer of frost 
crystals, or moonlit water slightly 
ruffled by the breeze, are severe in 
taste, although extremely rich. 
Another beautiful fabric, of more 



Hakata. 



455 



recent origin, is the transparent 
e-ori-komi, literally meaning " in- 
woven pictures," the thread being 
dyed beforehand in the proper 
places. At Hakata, too, may be seen 
the celebrated Takatori faience. 

Korean experts, who settled here after 
the Japanese invasion of their country in 
1592, founded this art, which was further 
developed by one Igarashi Jizaemon 
thirty years later. His object was to 
imitate a Chinese ware called yao-pien- 
yao ; and though this was not attained, 
some exquisitely lustrous glazes of the 
Jiambe type were produced, rich transpa- 
rent brown passing into claret colour, 
with flecks or streaks of white and clouds 
of " iron dust." Many specimens dating 
from the 18th century are cleverly model- 
led figures : of animals and mythological 
beings covered with variegated glazes, — 
gray, chocolate, brown, sometimes green 
or blue. 

The Fublic Garden is a broad 
belt of fir-trees laid out in walks. 
It contains a memorial to Hojo 
Tokimune, the then de facto 
ruler of Japan, whose forces, 
in the 13th century, met and anni- 
hilated at this spot the fleet sent 
by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan. 
(The Chinese pronounce " Kublai " 
Ku-pi-lieh, and this is still further 
altered by the Japanese to Kop- 
pitsu-retsu.) About 1 m. from the 
Public Garden is a celebrated 
Shinto temple known as Hakozaki 
Each iman-gu, standing in tastefully 
laid-out grounds with a fine avenue 
of fir-trees which extends down to 
the sea-shore. Prom here an excur- 
sion may be made to Najima, about 
3J m. by road, crossing a ferry over 
an arm of the sea close to the 
railway bridge, and turning 1. by 
the shore to a slight elevation 
on which stands a very old tem- 
ple dedicated to Benzol-ten. The 
spot commands a fine view of the 
bay and islands. Below, on the 
shore, lie sections of a petrified 
fir-tree, said by tradition to be 
the mast of the junk in which 
the Empress Jingd was wrecked 
when returning from Korea. On 
the way back to the town, we pass 
the dilapidated Buddhist temple of 



Sbfukuji, containing the handsome 
tombs of the lords of Chikuzen. 

From the port of Hakata, which 
has a pier over 400 ft. in length, 
steamers to Nagasaki and the south, 
and to Shimo-no-seki and Osaka ply 
almost daily. Near Yoshizuka 
stands 1. a large bronze statue of 
the Buddhist saint Nichiren, erected 
in 1904. 

Hakozaki. Visitors to the tem- 
ple of Hachiman mentioned above, 
may conveniently rejoin the railway 
here. Pretty peeps of the sea are 
obtained, as we approach the stretch 
of sea called Genkai Nada. Shortly 
before reaching 

Kashii, the hot springs of Arayu 
are observed r. It is at this station 
that visitors to Najima, described 
above, may best rejoin the railway. 

Between the stations of Akama 
and Ongagawa, the highest point 
of the line (300 ft. above sea-level) is 
reached, with views r. of Kurosaki- 
yama and Fukuchi-yama. The 
coast views, too, all the way hence 
into Moji are very fine, recalling the 
Inland Sea. Soon after Orio, we 
cross a branch line used to convey 
the coal which is brought from 
Nogata and other mines extending 
some 80 miles to the southward. 

Okura is the station for Yaicata- 
machi, a suburb of the sea-port town 
of Wakamatsu (Inn, Matsuiro), 
whence a portion of the coal is 
exported. On the 1. of the line is 
passed the Wakamatsu Steel Found- 
ry set up in 1901 on the model of 
Krupp's. 

Xokura (Inn, Ume-ya) is a long, 
straggling, and busy town, formerly 
the seat of a Daimyo, and now 
occupied by the garrison entrusted 
with the defence of the Strait of 
Shimo-no-seki. 

For Moji, see p. 408. 



456 



Route 61, — Yabakei Valley. 



ROUTE 61. 



Yabakei and down the Eapids of 

THE ChIKTJGO-GAWA TO KlJEUME. 

This is one of the prettiest trips 
in Japan over unbeaten tracks. The 
first stage of 3 hrs. is by train from 
Moji to Nakatsu. 



Distance 
from Moji 


Names of Stations. 


Miles 


MOJI 


3 


Dairi 


n 


KOKUBA Jet. 


10J 


Jono 


13f 


Sone 


18f 


Kanda 


22| 


Yukuhashi Jet. 


28 


Shinden-baru 


30* 


Shiida 


34 


Shoe 


36} 


Unoshima 


41J 


NAKATSU 



Itinerary by Road. 

NAKATSU to :— Bi Chb M. 

Hida 3 6 7J 

Ao 11 4 

Knchi-no-Hayashi.. 1 20 3f 

Kakisaka 1 13 "6\ 

Morizane 3 4 7} 

HITA, 4 14 10| 

Total .13 32 33f 



Whence half a day in boat and 
train to Kurume. 

The line skirts the shore, affording 
lovely sea-views, to Kokura, after 
which, diverging eastwards from 
the Nagasaki line it runs inland 
through rice fields with many pretty 
hills, to Kanda, not far from the 
Inland Sea. Of the latter, however, 
few glimpses are obtained till after 
passing Shiida, when there come 
long stretches of low land by the 
shore. Meanwhile Yulcuhashi, the 



junction for a short line to the 
collieries of Kawara, Ita, and Gotoji, 
has been passed. 1} ri from it, 
partly by jinrikisha and partly on 
foot are two large caves called 
Seiryu-tb, lit. " Blue Dragon Caves," 
with fine stalactites. 

Kakatsu (Inn, Shofu-ken) is a 
large town but has a bad harbour. 
Here basha or jinrikisha can be 
engaged for the whole distance to 
Hita. The excellent road rises im- 
perceptibly during the first 3 ri 24 
chb (9 m.) that lead, with pretty hill 
scenery ahead, to 

Yabakei. This is the name 
given to a portion of the valley of 
the Takase-gawa or Yamakuni-gawa, 
a stream which is here romantically 
enclosed by steep rocky heights that 
resemble the apparently impossible 
crags of Chinese and Japanese art. 
The charm is increased by the rich 
vegetation that mingles with the 
rockery to form a fairy garden. 
In some few places the road has 
been tunnelled through the rock. 

Yabakei was made known to fame early 
in the nineteenth century by the great 
historian and poet Rai San-yo (see p. 82). 
He it was who bestowed on it its present 
name, which he borrowed from a Chinese 
scene beloved by the literati of the Middle 
Kingdom. 

The peculiar scenery begins about 
1 ri before reaching the hamlet of 
Ao (Inn, Yamakuni-ya) at which it 
is best to stop for the night. A 
delightful day can be spent in ex- 
ploring the neighbourhood. Half- 
an-hour up the course of a small 
affluent called Atoda-gawa, stands 
the curious Buddhist temple of 
Bakanji, built on the side of a 
steep hill, and containing an im- 
mense number of stone images, — 
some in shallow caves, some in 
the open. There are said to be no 
less than 3,700 images on this and 
on the opposite hill (Furu-Bahanji). 
Yery beautiful, too, is the neigh- 
bouring valley of Fukase-dani, also 
called Shin Yabakei, that is, New 
Yabakei, whose rocky walls and 
pinnacles have pine-trees, azaleas, 



Route 62. — Hiko-san and to Nakatsa. 



457 



and rhododendrons perched on in- 
accessible nooks, while in autumn 
all is ablaze with the scarlet leaves 
of the maple. 

On leaving Ao, castellated rocks 
continue to delight the eye. They 
cease at a long ascent, tunnelled at 
the top, whence it is a descent of 3 
ri into 

Hita {Inns, Sho-ei-kwan, Toyo- 
kwan). This town, stretching for 
a long way on the banks of the 
Chikugo-gawa, is famed for its 
learned men. The thickly- wooded 
hillock r., just before entering it, 
was formerly crowned by the castle 
of the Daikwan (Governor). Boats 
laden with wooden clogs and char- 
coal, the products of the place, 
descend the rapids hence to Arase. 
One should be engaged for 2 or 3 
yen (time about 1J hr.). The broad, 
tranquil river, interrupted by rapids 
here and there, runs between pretty 
wooded hills. The whole district 
abounds in vegetable wax-trees. At 

Arase, where the great rice plain 
of Chikugo is entered, a light rail- 
way takes passengers into Kurume 
in about 2 hrs. It is to be ulti- 
mately extended to Hita. 

For Xururne, see next page. 



ROUTE 62. 



hlko-san and ackoss couxtey 
to Naeatstj. 

This is a 3 or 4 days' trip from 
Moji through some of the most 
picturesque scenery in Kyushu, and 
away from beaten tracks. 

Rail from Moji 8.W. to Orio Jet., 
whence by branch line S. to Soeda, 
altogether about 4 hrs. From Soeda 
it is 2 ri to the foot of Hiko-san, 
and jinrikishas are practicable, 
though not to be counted on. The 



mountain can also be approached 
from Yukuhashi Jet., on the E. 
coast, whence 10 J m. by branch line 
to Yusubaru, 3 ri by jinrikisha to 
Ten-ya-zaka, and a little over 1 ri 
more on foot or horseback to the 
vill. of 

Hiko-san, situated on the side 
of the three-peaked mountain of 
the same name. (Numerous inns, 
Temma-ya and Abura-ya best). 
Height of vill., 1,850 ft. above sea- 
level, which, combined with delight- 
ful verdure and views, recommends 
it as a summer resort. 



From time immemorial Hiko-san has 
ranked as a very holy place ; for here 
is worshipped Masaya-kachi-kachi-hayahi- 
ama-no-oshi-ho-mimi-no-Mikoto, eldest 
son of the Sun-Goddess (hi-ko, lit. means 
"Sun-child"). In the 16th century, no 
fewer than three thousand priests' 
dwellings are said to have crowded the 
mountain side. Barely 200 now remain, 
and the temple buildings have fallen into 
ruinous decay since their disestablish- 
ment and disendowment in 1868. The 
priests were Tamabushi, — the most 
ignorant and superstitious of all the Bud- 
dhist, or rather Byobu Shinto, sects ; but 
they enjoyed an income of 128,000 koJcu 
of rice, and their zasu, or high priest, who 
was connected by descent with the Im- 
perial family, governed a surrounding 
territory of 7 ri square and lived with all 
the state of a Daimyo. On the break-up 
of the old order and the handing over of 
the establishment to the "Pure Shin- 
toists," the last high priest entered lay 
life, and is now known as Baron Taka- 
chiho. Quantities of magnificent timber 
that formerly adorned the mountain 
have been ruthlessly felled, but some yet 
remains. Some 60,000 or 70,000 pilgrims 
still visit Hiko-san annually. The chief 
festivals are on the ll-15th days of the 3rd 
moon, old style, and on the Day of the 
Bull in the 8th moon. 



From the vill. of Hiko-san to the 
top of the mountain, 3,850 ft., is 
a steep climb of 35 cho, rewarded 
by much sylvan beauty and de- 
lightfully extensive views. One 
may return another way — steep and 
stony — via a picturesquely situated 
shrine sacred to liuzembo, a goblin 
who is worshipped as the protector 
of cattle. There are also other walks 
in the vicinity. 



458 



Route 63. — By Rail from Tosu to JCagoshima. 



The prettiest way back to the 
coast is as follows : — 

HIKO-SAN to :— Ri Cho M. 

Tsukinuki ) , . 3 — 7 J- 

Morizane j( a PP r0 *-) 2 _ 5 4 

Miyazono 1 31 4J 

Kuchi-no-Hayashi ..2 18 6 

Ao 1 20 3| 

Hida 11 | 

NAKATSU 3 13 8J 

Total 14 21 35* 



Leaving Hiko-san, we have a 
beautiful walk up and down over 
moorland with distant views, and 
through forest glades with pur- 
ling brooks which unite to form 
the Takase-gawa or Yamakuni- 
gawa, a river whose valley is 
romantically enclosed by steep, 
rocky, timbered heights. This 
valley, lower down stream, increas- 
ing in quaintness and beauty, is 
known far and wide under the 
name of Ydbakei (see previous 
Route). 

Jinrikishas or basha may some- 
times be found at Alorizane, or if 
not there, then at Miyazono or at 
Kuchi-no-Hayashi. The traveller 
had best stop at Ao {Inn, Yama- 
kuni-ya). 



KOUTE 63. 



The Kyushu Railway feom Tosu 

Junction to Kumamoto and 

Kagoshima. 

For the northern section of the 
Kyushu railway, from Moji to Tosu, 
see Route 60 reversed. 



0} 


Names 




S S:ft 






J o o 


of 


Remarks 


E PhW 






ft 


Stations 




Miles. 


MOJI 




67 


TOSU Jet 


For Nagasaki. 


71* 


Eurume 




79 


Araki 




83 


Hainutsuka 




87 


Wataze 




92 


Omuta 




99f 


Nagasu 




1054 


Takase 




110} 


Konoha 




115* 


Ueki 




121j 


Kami Kumamoto 




123 


KUMAMOTO 




127 
129* 

132* 


Kawashiri 

Uto 


f Jet. for 
( Misumi. 


Matsubase 


1361 


Ogawa 




139* 


Arisa 




■145 


YATSUSHIRO 




1511 


Sakamoto 




157 


Setoishi 




163* 


Shiraishi 




1693 


Isshochi 




173 


Watari 




177 


HITOYOSHI 




1821 


Okoba 




1883 


Yatake 




1971 


Yoshimatsu 




201| 


Kurino 




206 


Yokogawa 


( Alight f or 


209* 


Makizono ...... 


\ Kirishima. p. 


213 


Karei-gawa 


(464. 


220* 


Kokubu 




224* 


Kajiki 




229 


Shigetomi 




237| 


KAGOSHIMA 





Tosu, see p. 453. 

Eurume {Inn, *Rinsho-kwan), 
which lies on the 1. bank of the 
Chikugo-gawa, produces quantities 
of kasuri, a blue cotton figured 
fabric extensively used for clothing 
and bed-quilts. There is a large 
temple dedicated to Suitengu. — 



Kumamoto. 



459 



Two ri from Kurume stands Kora- 
san, a famous Shinto temple, the 
goal of many pilgrimages, — festivals 
on the 15-20th April and 12-Uth Oct. 

Yabekawa is the station for 
Yanagawa, which possesses _the re- 
mains of a castle. Near Omuta 
(Inn, Jugo-an), the works of the 
Miike Coal Mines are indicated by 
the smoke rising from them. At 
Omuta the dock and harbour- works 
are worth inspection. The prisoners 
of the Shuchi-kican, one of the 
largest convict establishments in 
the empire, are employed to dig out 
the coal. This whole district is 
carboniferous, Nana-ura, on the sea- 
shore 20 cho from Omuta, being 
specially productive. The railway 
now runs close to the shore, which 
is lined with thousands of graves, 
as all the neighbouring villages 
bury their dead in this one spot. 
Before reaching Xagasu, good views 
are obtained of Onsen-ga-take (Un- 
zen) on the Shimabara peninsula. 
Beyond Konaha, is 1. a wooded and 
partly cultivated eminence called 
Taicara-zaka, crowned by a marble 
monolith erected to the memory of 
the soldiers who fell in the fierce 
battles waged in this neighbourhood 
during the Satsuma Rebellion. 

Kumamoto [Inns Togi-ya Shi- 
ten, Europ. food,Wata-ya ; alight for 
the inns at Kami- Kumamoto station 
when coming from the north, at 
Kumamoto station, if from the south) 
formerly the seat of the Hosokawa 
family, Daimyos of Higo, and now 
capital of a prefecture co-extensive 
with that province, lies on the river 
Shirakawa, 4 m. from its mouth. It 
has several broad streets planted 
with trees ; and so many of the 
houses are surrounded by gardens 
that, seen from a height, this city 
of 60,000 souls presents rather the 
aspect of a vast park. One turret 
remains of the great Castle built 
over three centuries ago by Kato 
Kiy omasa (see p. 76). Permission to 
visit the castle grounds, colloquially 
known as Boku Shidan on account 
of the large garrison now quartered 



there, may generally be obtained at 
the prefecture (Kenchb) by presen- 
ting one's card. Time will be saved 
by doing this beforehand through 
the hotel. 

A visit should be paid to the 
temple of Honmyoji, commonly 
known as Seishoko Sama, belonging 
to the Nichiren sect of Buddhists 
whom Kato so zealously protected, 
while persecuting their enemies the 
Christians. This popular shrine, 
which is reached by a long flight of 
steps lined on either side with 
cherry-trees, is much resorted to by 
people possessed of the fox,* or 
labouring under other serious dis- 
orders. Kato Kiyomasa's grave is 
at the top of all, visible through a 
stone railing but not accessible. 
To the 1. are the graves of his chief 
retainer Old Tosa-no-kami, and of 
the Korean General Kinkwan, who 
committed harakiri to accompany 
him to the nether world. 

The fine Suizenji Park, 1| m. by 
tram to the S. E. of the city, was 
formerly the garden of the Daimyos 
country seat. 

Just outside the town, on the 
Aso-san road and 20 min. by jinriki- 
sha from the inn, stands the Kicai 
Shun Byo-in, a private institution, 
under English and benevolent 
auspices, devoted to the care of 
lepers and to the scientific study of 
the disease. Permission to inspect 
the arrangements should first be 
obtained from the Lady Superinten- 
dent, 436, Furu Shin-yashiki, Kuma- 
moto. 

It is half-a-day's expedition from 
Kumamoto to Kimbo-san, 2,100 
ft. above the sea, the first 30 cho 
being done in jinrikisha as far as 
the village of Shimasaki, whence it 
is a walk up a rough path, — about 
3 ri. The view from the top em- 
braces the gulf of Shimabara, 
Fugen-dake on the Shimabara 
peninsula to the W., the island of 



*For this superstition, see Things 
Japanese, article entitled "Demoniacal 
Possession." 



460 




Kimho-san. Yatsuhiro. 



461 



Amakusa, and to the S. the moun- 
tains of Satsuma. Almost due E. 
lies Aso-san, with its great column 
of smoke. Further N. runs another 
range of hills appearing to the 1. of 
the road between Yamaga and 
Kumamoto, while below are the 
wide plain, the city, and the 
meandering Shirakawa. On the N. 
side of the mountain are some hot 
springs. Those with a whole free 
day may return by the following 
round : — After descending from 
Kimb5-san, walk on about 20 cho to 
the curious stone images of the 500 
Bakan at Iwado, thence to the great 
orange groves (if in season) of Kawa- 
chi, where take basha via the small 
port of Hyakkwan, and the Inari 
temple of Takahashi, for Kumamoto. 
Another pleasant day's excursion 
through varied scenery is by train 
to Misumi station (1£ hr.), and 
back on foot via Misumi town ( Inn, 
Fuyuno-ya), 20 min. distant, and 
the sea-shore to the next station, 
Oda, 3 ri. 

The plain over which the railway 
passes is very fertile, and studded 
with towns and villages. On the 1. 
rise hills range behind range. The 
r. is flat, stretching towards the 
unseen sea. 

Yatsushiro {Inns, *Obi-ya, 
Yusui-kwan) is a large town noted 
for its faience, the manufacture of 
which, like that of Satsuma, is 
traced to Korean potters. — Hinagu 
(Inn, Kimpa-ro), on the coast, 2j ri 
to the S. byjinrikisha, is a favourite 
hot-spring resort. Steamers run 
hence to Nagasaki and other ports. 



Capt. Brinkley, R.A., writes of the 
Yatsushiro faience as follows: — " It is 
the only Japanese ware in which the 
characteristics of a Korean original are 
unmistakably preserved. Its diaphanous, 
pearl-grey glaze, uniform, lustrous, and 
finely crackled, overlying encaustic 
decoration in white slip, the fineness of its 
warm reddish pate, and the general ex- 
cellence of its technique, have always 
commanded admiration. It is produced 
now in considerable quantities, but the 
modern ware falls far short of its 
XDredecessor." 

Immediately on quitting Yatsu- 
shiro, one has r. an embankment 
built by Kato Kiy omasa (see p. 76) 
to control the Kumagawa, up which 
stream the line runs the whole way 
to Hitoyoshi. Yery pleasing is the 
scenery of this remote valley, where 
high hills on either hand hem in the 
river which turns and twists in a 
surprising manner. Every available 
nook is cultivated, even up to the 
top of many of the hills and there 
are villages innumerable, while the 
green limpid water teems with trout, 
and eels. On this, perhaps the 
prettiest section of the Kyushu 
Railway, the line twice crosses and 
re-crosses the river, and runs in and 
out of no less than twenty-three 
tunnels. At Sakamoto, the Ai-kaeri- 
gawa falls in 1. down a pretty side 
valley. Here stands a large paper 
factory. At 

Shiraisbi the gaping mouth 
is seen of a grand cave, called 
Konose no Iwado, situated on the r. 
bank, two or three min. walk from 
the river. Its dimensions have been 
estimated as follows : — length, 250 
ft. ; height, 250 ft. ; breadth, 200 ft. 
As the walls are formed of crystal- 



The illustration on the opposite page shows Kumamoto Castle in its 
original perfect state, a typical specimen of this style of edifice. The 
chief parts were : — 



Geba-hashi (Dismounting 
Bridge). 

Min/imi-zaka (Southern Ap- 
proach). 

Daimyo's Eesidence. 

South Gate. 

Taiko-yagura(Dmm Turret). 



6. Take-no-maru 

7. Ichi-no-tenshu (First Keep). 

8. Ni-no-tenshu (Second Keep). 

9. Udo-yagura (Turret). 

10. Umaya-bashi (Stable Bridge). 

11. Yabu-no-uchi-bashi (Bridge). 



462 Route 63. — By Rail from Tosu to Kagoshima. 



line limestone, the water that exudes 
through them redeposits the lime in 
the form of stalactites. 

After Watari, the scenery sudden- 
ly changes as the valley widens out 
indefinitely, and we reach 

Hitoyoshi (Inns, Nabeya, To- 
kura-ya). This fair-sized town 
possesses the remains of a feudal 
castle. A favourite trip hence is to 
descend the Bapids of the Kuma- 
gawa as far as Shiraishi, — private 
boat 3 J yen. It is possible, by 
taking the first train from Kuma- 
moto, to do the rapids and return to 
Kumamoto the same evening. 

The last section of the line to 
Kagoshima lies through difficult 
hilly country, necessitating many 
tunnels, — 37 in all. The 1. side is 
the best for views the whole way. 
Leaving Hitoyoshi and the Kuma- 
gawa, the train climbs up among 
dull hills to Okoba, passing through 
five tunnels, of which the last is 
helicoidal. It is worth while getting 
the car attendant to explain details. 

Yatake (1,890 ft.) is the highest 
point. Immediately after it comes 
the longest tunnel of all, 1J- m., on 
emerging from which, the Sendai- 
gawa is seen threading the plain 1. 
The mountain mass beyond it is 
Nishi-Kirishima (see p. 464), to 
whose r., in the far distance, the 
first glimpse is caught of Sakura- 
jima (p. 464) and the sea. All this 
portion of the line passes through 
scenery consisting in the main of 
small rice-fields enclosed by dull 
hillocks, but with occasional pretty 
distant glimpses of park-like country 
and high wooded hills. The small 
gold and iron mines of Masalci are 
passed 1. 

Yoshimatsu is a place of some 
importance. A branch line is under 
construction hence to Miyazaki, the 
capital of Hyuga. After Yokogawa, 
one sees ahead for a moment the 
extraordinarily sharp peak of the 
active volcano Higashi-Kirishima 
(p. 464), the ascent of which is best 



made from the next station Maki- 
zono. 

After Karei-gawa, peeps are 
obtained 1. of the river of that name 
winding through the plain, which 
gradually opens out to view in a 
receding frame of broken hills cut 
in places into abrupt cliffs. Then 
the great mass of Sakura-jima 
looms close ahead. Next we reach 

Kokubu (town, 1 ri from station), 
famous all over Japan for its tobacco. 
Henceforward the journey is along 
the level, and from Shigetomi, along 
the shore of the lovely Bay of 
Kagoshima. Kaimon-dake (see p. 
465), shaped like Fuji, rises in the 
dim distance ahead 1., behind a 
nearer range. The residence of the 
Prince of Satsuma is passed before 
entering 

Kag-osliima (Inns, *Satsuma-ya, 
*Meiji-kwan, both with Europ. food; 
Ikebata, at the port). This, the 
capital of the prefecture of the same 
name, is the southernmost great 
city of Japan. Though less bustling 
nowadays than its northern rivals, 
the breadth and cleanliness of its 
streets, the purity of its air, and its 
proximity to so much beautiful 
scenery give it a claim to attention, 
even apart from the leading role 
which it has played in modern 
Japanese history. 

The seat for many ages of the Shimazu 
family, lords of Satsuma, Osumi, and 
part of Hyuga, and suzerains of Luchu, 
Kagoshima was a centre of political ac- 
tivity between the year 1854, when the 
first treaty with the United States was 
concluded, and the revolution of 1868, 
which was in a great measure brought 
about by the energy and determination of 
the Satsuma men. On the 15th August, 
1863, Kagoshima was bombarded by a 
British squadron of seven ships, and a 
large part of the town was burnt, in con- 
sequence of the refusal to give satisfaction 
for the murder in 1862 of C. L. Richardson, 
a British subject, who had been cut down 
near Yokohama, for getting in the way of 
the Daimyo of Satsuma's train (cf. p. 
110). Most of the forts were dismantled, 
in spite of a typhoon which raged through- 
out the day ; but the squadron also 
suffered considerably. After the revolu- 
tion, many of the Satsuma men became 
dissatisfied with the Europeanising policy 



Kagoshirna. 



463 



of the Imperial Government. Their 
discontent culminated, in 1877, in a 
rebellion headed by Saigo Takamori (p. 
82). This, which is known to history as 
the " Satsuma Rebellion," was suppressed 
after some nine months warfare, when 
the town of Kagoshirna again fell a prey 
to the flames. Saigo himself made a last 
stand at the foot of Shiro-yama, a hill 
behind the town, formerly crowned by 
the Daimyo's castle. Of this there now 
remains but a y&Ti of the wall, on which 
the bullet marks are still jdainly visible. 
Thus ended the last serious attempt to 
oppose the development of the enlighten- 
ed principles of government that have 
transformed the political and social con- 
dition of modern Japan. 

A splendid view is obtained from 
Shiroyama, which has been laid out 
as a public park. A stone marks 
the spot where Saigo is said to have 
committed harakiri when he saw 
that all was lost, and a wooden 
statue of him is passed 1. before 
entering the Cemetery, where he lies 
buried with many hundreds of his 
warriors, and where a festival is 
celebrated in his honour on the 
28th day of the 6th moon, old style. 
Fukushoji, the burial-place of the 
old lords of Satsuma, is close at 
hand ; and some little way on 2 — for 
Kagoshirna is a city of graves 
and memories of the past — is the 
Loyalist Cemetery on the sea-shore. 
Its neglected state contrasts strange- 
ly with the tender care that is taken 
of the rebel graves. It must, how- 
ever, be remembered that the rebel 
dead are here among their own 
kinsmen, whereas almost all the 
loyalists were strangers from other 
provinces. In the street called 
Kajiya-cho, small monuments indi- 
cate the respective birthplace of 
Saigo, and of twq_ other celebrated 
modern worthies, Okubo Toshimichi 
and Admiral Togo. 

The Jusamba at Kagoshirna is an 
institution, established in 1880 to 
furnish a livelihood to the female 
relatives of the samurai killed or 
ruined in the rebellion. Some six 
hundred wornen are employed there 
in the manufacture of Satsuma- 
gasuri, a cotton fabric used for 
summer clothing. Notwithstand- 



ing its name, the Satsuma-gasuri 
originated in the Luchu Islands, 
and the indigo used to dye the 
cotton is still imported thence. 
The Kogyo-kwan bazaar contains 
local products which are offered for 
sale. 

Kagoshirna is the seat of the 
manufacture of the celebrated Sa- 
tsuma crackled faience, the best 
pieces of which were produced to the 
order of the Daimyo, at Ta-no-ura 
in the E. suburb of the town. The 
beautiful stretch of coast just 
beyond is called Iso, where stands 
the residence of the Shimazu family. 
Permission to inspect the garden 
may be sometimes obtained through 
the hotel. Specimens of Ijidn porce- 
lain (see Rte. 65) and of Luchuan 
lacquer may be purchased in the 
town. Satsuma is also famed for its 
camphor, its vegetable wax, and its 
horses, a large proportion of these 
last being the progeny of recently 
imported Australians. 

A good half-day's walk from Ka- 
goshirna is up Yoshino-yama, the 
bare hill to the N.E. of the town, 
commanding a splendid view. 
Kagoshirna may also be reached by 
steamer from Kobe in 40 hrs. The 
island and coast scenery is of great 
beauty, and affords an excellent 
opportunity for seeing the ever 
lovely Inland Sea and the Bungo 
Channel. The ship enters Kago- 
shirna Bay between Cape Tatsumi 
on the r., and the lofty cone of 
Kaimon-dake on the 1. Kagoshirna 
harbour is so deep as to cause 
inconvenience, — as much as 40 and 
even 80 fathoms. The steamer 
anchors close to the shore in 13 
fathoms. 

There is steam communication 
every two or three days between 
Kagoshirna and the large islands 
of Tane-ga-shima (chief town 
Nishi-no-omote on the N. "W. coast) 
and Yakushima to the south, 
which present a striking contrast 
to each other in appearance, the 
former being long, low, and careful- 
ly cultivated, while the latter is a 



464 



Route 64. — Volcanoes near Kagoshima. 



circular maze of lofty mountains 
rising to a height of over 6,000 ft. 
and covered with dense forests 
wherein grow some of the finest 
cryptomerias in Japan, — the famous 
Yaku-sugi. The inhabitants of 
Yakushima are said to live in a 
state of almost idyllic innocence 
and security, no locks or bolts 
being needed in an island where 
thieving is unknown. 



KOUTE 64. 



Volcanoes near Kagoshima. 

1. Sakura-jima. 2. Kirishima- 
yama. 3. kaimon-dake. 

1. — Sakura-jima. 

A visit to Sakura-jima makes a 
pleasant excursion from Kago- 
shima. Small steamers ply there 
every morning, taking about 1 hr. 
The island is celebrated for its volca- 
no, its hot springs, its oranges, and 
its giant daikon (radishes). Some of 
these vegetables weigh over 70 lbs., 
the biggest being produced on the N. 
coast. Much sugar-cane is also 
grown. The favourite hot springs 
of Ari-mura are on the south coast, 
where the lava has flowed down to 
the sea. This place (2 hrs. by 
boat) is generally taken by Japanese 
visitors as the starting-point for 
the ascent of the volcano, whose 
top is reached by a narrow track 
chiefly cut through pumice and 
overhung by shrubs. The expedi- 
tion up and down occupies 5 hrs. 
The mountain is 3,506 ft. high. 
It has two craters, — a smaller 
extinct one on the N. W. side, 
about 250 ft. deep, and a very 
imposing one, 300 ft. deep, at the 
S.E. end, whence issues a little 



steam. The view is magnificent. 
Immediately in front of the specta- 
tor, to the W., lies the city of 
Kagoshima; on the S.S.W. rise 
Kaimon-dake and, in the opposite 
direction, the two massive peaks of 
the Kirishima range, — Takachiho 
on the r., and Kara-kunimi-dake on 
the 1. Beyond, in the distance, are 
the mountains of Hyuga, whilst 
below, on every side, stretches the 
lovely Bay of Kagoshima dotted 
with islets. 

The last eruption of Sakura-jima took 
place in 1779, on the 18th day of the 10th 
moon, old style. In commemoration of 
this, a monthly festival is held, when no 
boats are allowed to leave the island. 



2 . — Kirishima- yam a . 

Kirishima is not a single volcanic peak, 
but a range some 10 miles in length, with 
two principal eminences. The eastern 
one, HigasM Kirishima, also called Taka- 
chiho-dake and locally O Take, is celebra- 
ted in Japanese mythology as the peak on 
which the god Ninigi, grandson of the 
Snn-Groddess Amaterasu, alighted when 
he came down from heaven to pave the 
way for the conquest of Japan by Jimmu 
Tenno and his warrior host (p. 75). The 
celebrated " Heavenly Spear," on the 
summit of Takachiho, is worshipped as a 
relic of this divinity. 

The western and higher, but less stri- 
king peak, NisM Kirishima, has the alter- 
native name of Kara-kuni-mi-dake, from 
the idea that it affords a view of China or 
Korea (Kara). Only Eastern Kirishima 
has been active in modern times. Since 
its great outburst in October, 1895, it 
has in fact never been altogether quiet, 
dense clouds of steam mingled with sul- 
phur fumes constantly floating upwards. 
An eruption causing considerable damage 
to crops took place in August, 1903. 

This fine expedition takes 2 
days. The first stage is by rail 
from Kagoshima to Kokubu (1J hr.), 
whence on horseback or by jinriki- 
sha through interesting scenery via 
Okubo to Miya (Taguchi) at the 
foot of the volcano, — about 5 n. 

Miya (several inns) derives its 
name from a large Shintd temple 
close by, which is passed on the 
way up the mountain next day. 
The ascent as far as the crater 






Kirishima. Kaimon-dake. 



465 



occupies 2 J hrs., first through a 
wood, then over grass and stones, 
and at last over hard cinders. The 
original summit-crater has been 
denuded into a sharp peak, and the 
present crater lies, not on the top, 
but on the side. The wall of this 
huge vent, precipitous for the most 
part, is known as the Umankone 
(local patois for uma no hone, " the 
horse's bone"), apparently in allu- 
sion to the narrowness of its wall. 
The depth is about 300 ft,, the 
diameter about 1,500 ft,, and the 
floor of the crater is pierced by 
several huge and incessantly 
active fumaroles. The neighbour- 
hood is riddled with holes caused 
by stones ejected from the crater. 
The actual summit of the mountain 
(5,163 ft.) lies further on, and is 
marked by a large pile of stones. 
The "Heavenly Spear" already 
referred to, the material of which 
is bronze, and the length about 4 J 
ft,, is fixed in the ground hilt up- 
wards. The view is very extensive. 
The large lake far below on the E. 
side of the mountain is called Mi- 
ike. The distance from base to 
summit is locally estimated at 2J ri. 

[Xishi Kirishima must be taken 
as a separate expedition from 
the little spa of Eino, men- 
tioned below. A good hour's 
climb from Eino brings one to 
the edge of a circular crater, 
not steaming and sulphurous 
like that of Higashi Kirishima, 
but calm and clear, and hold- 
ing a beautiful lake of emerald 
green, from whose margin 
rises a belt of fir-trees that 
clothe the sides of the precipi- 
tous inner wall to its highest 
edge. This lake, called Onami- 
ike, is about 1 ri in circum- 
ference, while the height of the 
lowest part of the crater lip is 
4,680 ft. The way to the sum- 
mit of the mountain leads 
through a dense undergrowth 
of bamboo grass and small 
trees, before issuing out upon 



soft turf. The grand view in- 
cludes :— to the S.E., the large 
crater of Shimo-Oitake, then 
the summit of Oitake, and 
beyond, but towering far above 
them, the smoking crater and 
sharp peak of Higashi Kiri- 
shima ; to the S., Shiraka-dake, 
Sakura-jima in the bay of Ka- 
goshima, and far away on the 
Pacific shore, Kaimon-dake. 
Onami-ike lies at the specta- 
tor's feet ; and on the N.W., at 
a much lower elevation, is Shi- 
ratori-san, with two of its three 
lakes distinctly visible. The 
top of Nishi Kirishima, 5,576 ft., 
forms the highest point of an 
extinct crater, at the bottom of 
which lies a mass of slimy 
moss and weeds, as if a lake 
had just dried up. This sum- 
mit is marked by a large cairn 
surmounted by an iron trident. 
Looking beyond Shiratori-san, 
a striking and extensive view 
is obtained of the mountains 
of central Kyushu, including 
Aso-san and Sobo-san.] 

From the foot of Higashi Kiri- 
shima it is a walk of about 2 hrs., 
with a lovely panorama S. and W., 
to any of the charmingly situated 
hamlets of Eino (fair inn), Myoban, 
and Iwo-ga-tani, collectively known 
as Kirishima Onsen from their ex- 
cellent hot springs, — sulphur, salt, 
iron, and alum, at different tem- 
peratures. The baggage should be 
sent on here direct from Miya. The 
return to Kokubu is a distance of 
about 6 ri. 

3. — Kaimon-dake. 

The beautiful volcano of Kai- 
mon-dake, 3,031 ft. high, lies 15 ri 
due S. of Kagoshima, whence 5 J 
hrs. by steamer to Yamagawa (poor 
accommodation), whose harbour is a 
partially submerged crater. Here 
pack-horses are taken to Senta (no 
inn), at the foot of the mountain. 
The ascent to the crater, which is 



466 Route 65. — Through Satsuma & Amakusa to Nagasaki. 



deep and well-formed, but extinct, 
is a rough climb of 3 hrs. Lake 
Ikeda, too, surrounded by fine hills 
full of pumice is worth a visit. The 
whole expedition from Yamagawa 
and back, including the lake, will 
occupy about 14 hrs. 



EOUTE 65. 



Thkough Satstjma and Amakusa 
to Nagasaki. 

Steamers run from Kagoshima 
to Nagasaki in 24 hrs. Those 
desirous of treading unbeaten tracks 
might follow the Itinerary here 
given. The route can be abridged 
by taking the Nagasaki steamer at 
Ichiki, Akune, or Ushibuka. 

KAGOSHIMA to:— Hi Clio M. 

Ichiki-Minato 8 32 21| 

Sendai (Mukoda)... 4 6 10J- 

Nishikata 4 4 10 

Akune 3 15 8| 

Kuro-no-seto ferry 

(about 2 J hrs.) 

S. end Nagashima 

(about J hr.) 
Kura-no-moto 

(about 2J hrs.) 
Ushibuka 

(2 to 4 hrs.) 
Hondo 

(about 4 hrs.) 

Oni-ike 3 — 1\ 

Kuchinotsu 

(about 2 hrs.) 

Unzen 6 8 15| 

Obama 2 18 6 

Mogi (about 3 hrs.) 
NAGASAKI 2—5 

Total 34 11 83| 



Plus the time items given for 
actual sea passages, and a broad 
margin for unavoidable delays. 



A railway is under construction 
westwards from Kagoshima across 
Satsuma to Ichiki on the coast, 
whence it will be carried north- 
wards to Sendai and ultimately on 
to Yatsushiro. Meanwhile, an ex- 
cellent basha road runs the whole 
way from Kagoshima to Akune 
(and indeed right on to Yatsushiro). 
For the first day, as far as Sendai, 
the scenery is dull, with low hills 
of pumice and many rice-fields; 
but the traveller may visit on the 
way the potteries of Ijilin (Tsuboya), 
6 ri W. of Kagoshima. 

The inhabitants of this place are of 
Korean origin, being the descendants of 
a colony of potters brought hither at the 
end of the 17th century, when Hideyoshi 
had conquered their native country. The 
ruined ceramic art of Korea thus rose 
again, phcenix-like, on Japanese soil. 
The intelligent reader will not need to 
have pointed out to him how very recent 
the so-called "ancient Satsuma ware" 
really is,— even in its earliest specimens, 
of which it is the rarest thing in the 
world to obtain a glimpse. Ijuin is the 
headquarters of the manufacture, and the 
best house is that of Chin Ju Kwan. 

After Ichiki, some important gold 
mines {Segano Kinmri), belonging 
to the lord of Satsuma are passed. 
The great house of Mitsui is open- 
ing up another. 

Sendai {Inn, Takase-ya) is the 
collective name of a scattered group 
of villages. The temple of Hachi- 
man here merits a visit for its 
splendid camphor trees. The sea- 
coast is reached near Nishikata, 
whence onwards the whole route is 
interesting, affording lovely sea 
views, with Koshiki-jima in par- 
ticular standing out prominently to 
theS.W. At 

Akune (Inn, Nakamura), we 
leave the high road, to proceed 
northward on foot to the Kuro-no- 
seto channel, where cross by ferry 
to Nagashima. A walk through 
this island brings us to Kura-no- 
moto, whence by fishing-boat over 
to 

Ushibuka (good accommoda- 
tion), the second largest town in 
the island of 



Route 66. — Kumamoto to Aso-san and Beppu. 



467 



Amakusa. 

This island has a somewhat sad history, 
in connection with Christianity in Japan. 
In the year 1577, the Daimyo issued a pro- 
clamation whereby all his subjects were 
required either to turn Christian, or to 
go into exile the very next day. The 
great majority submitted and were bap- 
tised. But the next century witnessed 
a revolution in the opposite direction, 
ending in a general massacre of the 
Christians (see p. 450). 

Amakusa produces a little coal. 
The poor soil is made the most of 
by cultivation, the system of ter- 
racing being carried to unusual 
perfection here and in the adjacent 
lesser islands. 

A small steamer leaves Ushibuka 
daily for Hondo, also called Machi- 
yama-guchi (Inn, *Kiku-ya), the 
capital of the island ; but owing to 
the silting up of the extremely 
narrow channel that separates 
Upper from Lower Amakusa, pas- 
sengers generally have to do the 
last ri from Omon-domari to Hondo 
on foot. From Hondo to Oni-ike 
(Inn, Kome-ya), in jinrikisha or on 
foot; thence by sailing-boat to 
Kuchinotsu, and on foot via Tsu- 
kaica over Unzen to Obama, and 
across by steamer to Mogi for 
Nagasaki (see Route 58). 



ROUTE 66. 

From Kumamoto to Aso-san 
and Beppu. 

ascent of aso-san. takeda. baths 
of beppu. tsueumi-dake. 

This route, embracing as it does 
the natural marvels of Aso-san and 
of Beppu and the lovely neigh- 
bourhood of Takeda, may be reckon- 
ed one of the most interesting in 
Japan. It will be still more so if 
the Yabakei valley, described in 
Route 61, be included, either as an 
excursion from Nakatsu, or by 



taking the alternative mountain 
way via Mori described on p. 471. 

Itinerary. 

KUMAMOTO to :— Bi. cho. M. 

Ozu 5 — 12J 

Tateno 3 7 7| 

Tochinoki Shin-yu 20 l| 

Total 8 27 21| 

Thence 1 day on foot over Aso- 
san to Bojii and Miyaji. (Though not 
customary it would be easy to ride, 
and horses are numerous.) Thence 
as follows : 

MIYAJI to:— Bi Cho M. 

Sasakura 2 11 5| 

Sugabu 2 5 5J- 

Tamarai 2 15 6 

TAKEDA.. 30 2 

Nukumi ,.... 4 2 10 

Notsuhara 4 — 9| 

OITA 3 9 8 

BEPPU 3 -~ 1\ 

Total 22 — 53| 

The first stage over the luxuriant 
plain from Kumamoto to Ozu is 
done by steam tram, all the rest of 
the way to Oita by basha or jinriki- 
sha. From Oita to Beppu by rail 
or electric tram. Leaving the tram 
at Ozu, the drive is uninteresting till 
after passing Tateno. A pretty 
torrent running in a deep gorge is 
presently reached, and there, near 
the junction of the Shirakawa and 
Kurokawa, stands the hamlet of 

Toshita or Tochinoki Shin- 
yu, (Inn, Choyo-kwan). It possesses 
public baths, — mere tanks under 
sheds. The pleasantly warm water 
is brought in pipes from another 
hamlet, a few cho higher up the 
ravine, called Tochinoki Hon-yu, 
which is a less good place for Eu- 
ropeans to stay at, because general- 
ly crowded with bathers of the 
lower class. 

Tochinoki Shin-yu being the 
starting-point for Aso-san, a local 
guide should here be procured, as 
the way is impossible to find. 



468 Route 66. — Kumamoto to Aso-san and Beppu. 



Vehicles and luggage must be sent 
round via Tateno to Boju 3 ri 28 cho 
(9 J m.) to await the traveller, 
whether he intends following the 
route as here given on to Beppu, or 
returning to Kumamoto. 

The five peaks of Aso-san are called 
Kijima-dake, Eboshi-dake, Naka-no-take, 
Taka-dake, and Neko-dake, the highest 
(Taka-dake) being 5,222 ft. Aso-san is 
therefore not the highest mountain 
in Kyushu, nor is the fact of its being 
an ever active volcano any singularity 
in this volcano-studded land. Its title to 
celebrity rests on the exceptional size 
of its outer crater, which is the largest 
in the world, and rises almost symmetri- 
cally to a height of about 2,000 ft,, the 
wall being highest to the S. W. and lowest 
to the E. , between Aso-san and Sobo-san. 
The only actual break is on the western 
or Kumamoto side, through which the 
river Shirakawa, joined by the Kurokawa, 
runs out. According to popular tradition, 
the whole plain enclosed by this wall 
was anciently a lake, till one day the god 
of the mountain kicked open this breach 
to let the waters out and leave the land 
fit for cultivation. 

The outer crater measures 14§ m. from 
N. to S.; 9| m. from E. to W. and has a 
circumference of 73 m. It is popularly 
said to contain a hundred villages. 
Though this round number is an exaggera- 
tion, there are no less than 4,070 in- 
habitants. Eruptions of Aso-san have 
heen chronicled from the beginning of 
Japanese history. In February, 1884, 
immense quantities of black ash and dust 
were ejected and wafted as far as Kuma- 
moto, where for three days it was so dark 
that artificial light had to be used. Great 
activity also marked the volcano and 
geysers in 1889. A great eruption took 
place in 1894, the resulting fall of impal- 
pable ash continuing until 1897. Some- 
times it was sulphurous, spoiling all 
garments left out in it and withering the 
crops. Violent outbreaks also occurred 
in 1908 and 1910, the latter producing two 
new craters. — Suicides by jumping into 
one of the craters are common. Most of 
the cases occur among young students 
imbued with pessimistic philosophy. 

After passing Tochinoki Hon-yu, 
we reach [\ hr. out) a waterfall call- 
ed Ai-gaeri, lit. " trout return," so 
called because the fish coming up 
stream can go no further. It makes 
a pretty picture, with lofty Tawara- 
yama rising behind it to the r. A 
steady ascent hence leads over a 
grassy moor to Yunotani, 1J n, 
where a small geyser ejects red 



mud and boiling water. Here, on 
looking back, an extensive view 
opens out over the plain of Kuma- 
moto, with the Shimabara peninsula 
beyond. Some guides leave Yuno- 
tani to the 1., and lead up through 
the twin spas of Tarutama (fair 
accommodation) and Jigoku, the 
former prettily situated against a 
screen of rock, down which fall 
threads of water, and both lively 
with numerous bathers in April and 
May, which is the busy season. 

The next stage, which continues 
to mount steadily over cultivated 
and grassy country, leads in If hr. 
to the base of the cone where stand 
a rest-house and a shrine. From 
the rest-house, to which one should 
return to lunch, the round of the 
craters takes 1\ hr. There are 
four of these, from two of which 
white steam constantly wells up in 
great clouds. The two new ones are 
separated from the two old by a 
sharp rift. The soil every where 
consists of finest soft greasy ash. 
The whole vast scene is weird and 
desolate. 

From the rest-house down to Boju 
is called 63 cho, but must be more, 
as it requires 2 hrs. rapid walking. 
On the way down this moorland 
slope, the traveller first realises the 
extraordinary structure of Aso-san, 
and will admire the regularity and 
majestic sweep of the ancient crater 
wall. Till then the mountain had 
seemed a jumble ; but on the 
descent all becomes clear. It is a 
unique and impressive scene: — 
below, the teeming plain dotted 
with villages, and enclosed by the 
outer wall beyond which looms the 
faint mass of Kuju-san, while to the 
r., through rifts in the steam, appear 
the grey broken crags of the modern 
inner craters. On reaching 

Boju, which affords no passable 
accommodation, the jinrikisha or 
basha sent round to wait there 
should be availed of for the 4 or 5 
miles along the plain to 

Miyaji (Inn, Somon-kwan). This 
quiet place lies 10 min. by jinriki- 



Takeda. 



469 



sha off the main road. A large 
Shinto temple here, dedicated to the 
god of Aso-san, gives to the village 
its name, which means " temple 
ground." The chief treasure is a 
sacred sword called Hotaru Mam, or 
the " Firefly." _ 

[From Miyaji a hilly cross-coun- 
try road of about 19 ri leads to 
Hita (for Yabakei), via Uchi-no- 
maki, Miya-no-haru, Tsuitate, 
and Deguchi. Tsuitate is a 
rustic bathing resort nestling 
in a picturesque gorge. From 
Deguchi onwards, the way leads 
across a park-like country 
studded with pine-trees, the 
mountains beyond helping to 
form a charming scene.] 

Leaving Miyaji and rejoining the 
main road, we bowl along an ave- 
nue of cherry-trees, with the whole 
mass of Aso-san — especially the 
jagged peak of Neko-dake — conspi- 
cuous to the r. The way is nearly 
level as far as Sakamshi at the 
bottom of the steep Takimuro-zaka* 
This hill is simply the above-men- 
tioned outer wall, which is covered 
with luxuriant vegetation, and up 
which one has to climb (£ hr.) in 
order to emerge from the crater. 
The way henceforward is constantly 
downhill or level, and the first 
stage is dull. But after passing the 
hamlet of Sasakura, we come out 
on a broad open upland, with Kuju- 
san constantly to the 1., and the still 
greater mass of Sobo-san to the r. 
This plateau passes gradually into 
the curiously broken up, artificial- 
looking country around Takeda, — 
a complicated system of dwarf hills 
with miniature valleys and little 
walls of pumice and basalt lining 
the valley sides. Tamarai is a 
small but go-ahead place. The 
road enters 

Takeda [Inn, *Masuda-ya) by a 
short tunnel, one of a large 
number — some forty altogether — 
which were cut about the year 
1873, to avoid the necessity of 
climbing up and downhill on 



entering or leaving the town, 
which lies in a hollow. Some of 
these tunnels are as much as 180 
yds. long. The traveller is advised 
to devote an hour to visiting Uozumi, 
8 did to the S. of the town. This 
sight consists of a delightful cluster 
of waterfalls, not remarkable for 
height, being merely some 30 or 40 
ft., but flowing picturesquely over 
and among the tops of basaltic 
columns which fit closely together 
like a tesselated pavement. The 
river is the Onogawa. Yagobe-zaka, 
for the sake of its view over the 
town, and also the castle-hill, 
formerly the seat of the Nakagawa 
family, may be visited. By thus 
wandering about, the traveller will 
see some of the longer tunnels, and 
obtain a correct idea of this peculiar 
locality. Takeda might even ad- 
vantageously be made the head- 
quarters for a stay of several days, 
as there are many good expeditions 
in the neighbourhood. One of these, 
4 ri to the E., is to the grand water- 
fall ofChinda, over which, in ancient 
times, prisoners condemned to death 
were precipitated ; if they survived 
the ordeal, they were pardoned. 

[A jinrikisha road leading from 
Chinda to Ichiba on the Ono- 
gawa, 3i ri, affords an_alterna- 
tive way of reaching Oita and 
Beppu ; see p. 473.] 

Another beautiful set of water- 
falls called Shiromizu, lying to the 
W., makes a long day's expedi- 
tion, 4 ri there by jinrikisha and 1 J 
ri on foot. Besides these, there are 
several other waterfalls, to say 
nothing of Kuju-san and Sobo-san, 
mountains rarely ascended^ 

Leaving Takeda and the Onogawa 
by a short tunnel, we pass r. a rocky 
mound with stone images of the 
Sixteen Eakan. The scenery soon 
loses the special character above 
described, without ceasing to be 
beautiful. In fact, it is a succession 
of delights nearly the whole way to 
Nukumi, — brawling streams, rich 



470 Route 66. — Kumamoto to Aso-san and Beppu. 



vegetation, deep glens; but there 
are three steep hills at which it is 
necessary to alight and walk. From 
the rest-house at Nukumi, the 
whole distance to Notsuhara is 
almost constantly downhill, most 
of it through charming scenery, 
especially the romantic gorge of 
Arako-dani, with its high basaltic 
walls. This widens out at the 
scattered village of Imaichi, where 
the sea first comes in sight; and 
thenceforward, all down the valley 
of the Nanase-gawa — for so the 
river is named — there is a delicious 
mixture of upland, and rock, and 
the soft green of cultivated fields. 
Notsuhara is a poor place standing 
on the flat, and the way thence 
flattens out and is uninteresting on 
io_ 

Oita (Inns, Yao-ya, Mizuno). 
This, the capital of the prefecture 
of the same name, is a large and 
busy town, with a port at some dis- 
tance. 

It was to this place that the Portuguese 
adventurer, Mendez Pinto, found his way 
in the year 1543, when he had discovered 
Japan, and met with a friendly reception 
from the local Daimyo. His arquebuse 
astounded the Japanese who had never 
yet seen any explosive weapon. The great 
Jesuit missionary, St. Francis Xavier, 
also spent some time at Oita a few years 
later. 

The coast beyond Oita is very 
pretty, recalling the Biviera, but 
far greener. The small port of 
Kantan, is passed If m. out of Oita. 
The high cliff 1., which the road then 
skirts, is called Takamki-yama. 
The land to the extreme r. in the 
dim distance is that of the moun- 
tains of Iyo in Shikoku. 

Beppu (Hotel— *Beppu Hotel, 
Europ. style, J hr. from station; 
Inn, Hinago-ya), besides being a 
port of call for steamers, is a 
celebrated resort on account of its 
hot baths, the whole ground of 
the semi-circular flat that girds 
the bay being undermined by 
volcanic vapour and hot water. In 
the suburb of Hamawake, across the 



river Asami, are two very large 
bath-houses on the shore, called 
the Eastern and Western Baths 
(Higashi no yu and Nishi no yu). 
Each accommodates about 400 pa- 
tients, who, when all bathing to- 
gether, present a singular spectacle. 
The baths, which are sunk in the 
ground, are graduated to suit all 
kinds of chronic diseases, and on the 
pillars are labels giving the requisite 
information. The sea-water flows 
in gently at high tide, reducing the 
temperature. Visitors are warned 
in the local guide-book " not to 
kill the cow while straightening the 
horns," that is, not to injure their 
constitution in the effort to cure 
a local affection. The temperature 
of the waters, which are alkaline 
and chalybeate with large quan- 
tities of carbonic acid gas, is from 
100° to 132° F. The bathing season 
lasts from February to the end of 
summer. Here may be witnessed 
the odd sight of men and women 
scooping out holes in the shore, 
where they lie covered with sand to 
steam themselves in the hot water 
which percolates everywhere. 

A general panoramic view of 
Beppu and neighbourhood may be 
obtained from Kwankaiji, also a 
bathing resort on a hill behind the 
town. 

A morning may be agreeably 
spent visiting the vill. of Kannawa- 
mura, 1 ri 8 cho distant from Beppu 
by jinrikisha, where is a vapour 
bath-house which holds sixteen 
persons at a time. It is walled 
round with stone and roofed in, 
and has but a small aperture for 
ventilation. The floor is a lattice, 
under which flows a stream of nat- 
ural boiling water. The entrance 
is by a low door covered with a 
straw mat, beneath a small shrine. 
Intending bathers wait in an 
ante-room, each paying 10 sen for 
the day and receiving a tally. As 
soon as one emerges from under 
the mat, another gives up his tally 
and enters, each stopping in for 
about an hour. The bathers come 



Beppu. 



471 



Out covered with droppings of mud 
and rushes which fall from the roof, 
and hasten to cool themselves 
under spouts of fresh water flow- 
ing into a large pool on the 
other side of the street. Along the 
sides of the village street are to be 
seen kettles and saucepans set to 
boil over holes in the ground. 
Large quantities of natural hot 
water flow through pipes from 
the springs above the village ; and 
opposite the door of each house is 
a set of holes for cooking purposes, 
covered with sods when not wanted. 
A short way up the hill behind, the 
springs can be seen boiling out of 
the ground, and are called " Hells " 
(Jlgoku) by the Japanese. The 
largest of these "Hells," Umi Jlgoku, 
forms a pond prettily situated 
under a leafy bank. It measures 
42 ft. in diameter, and the water, 
which boils with great force, is 
clear and of a vivid green colour. 
Many persons have committed 
suicide by jumping into it. A 
smaller " Hell " is the Oni Jlgoku, 
full of reddish stones. A third, 
Bbzu Jlgoku, near by, consists of 
light grey boiling mud, and some- 
times emits a loud noise. Kbya 
Jigoku- dyes towels, etc. red. The 
whole neighbourhood of Kannawa 
is undermined by fuming sulphur- 
ous streams, and at several points 
the mud may be seen moving in 
tiny bubbles. 

There are several pleasant short 
walks in the neighbourhood of 
Beppu: — Oge-yama, sl low, grassy 
hill with a fine view,-lj hr. ; Taka- 
mki-yama, 2,062 ft, (mentioned 
above), the site of an ancient castle 
and the resort of numerous monkeys, 
— 2 ri from Hamawaki ; the cascade 
of Otobari-no-take,-l hr. walk to the 
S. of the Hotel. 

The ascent of Tsurumi-dake, 
the most conspicuous of the mount- 
ains forming the background of 
Beppu, will occupy a day ; guide 
necessary. From the valley on the 
S. side a rough track leads up to a 
torii (If hr. from the Hotel), whence 



it zigzags steeply to a shrine pro- 
tected by two immense cryptomeria 
trees. The track then turns r., and 
after a time disappears, giving place 
to a stiff clamber to the summit, — 
2 hrs. from the shrine. The splendid 
view embraces the whole N. E. 
coast of Kyushu, the mainland E. of 
Shimonoseki and the Island of 
Shikoku ; to the S.W. appear all the 
mountains of N. Kyushu, especially 
Kuju-san, Aso-san, Sobo-san, and, 
on a clear day, even Kimbo-san 
near Kumamoto. The high and 
precipitous cliffs in the immediate 
neighbourhood are also very strik- 
ing. 

To quit Beppu, one may either 
take steamer eastwards to Inland 
Sea ports and Osaka, or else the 
railway N.W. to Moji (see schedule 
below). Another possibility, off 
beaten tracks, is over the hills to 
Mori (11 ri), whence to Ao (8 ri), 
for the beautiful valley of Yabakei 
(Boute 61). Between Beppu and 
Mori the hot springs of Kawakami 
and Horita are passed; also the 
extinct volcano called Bungo 
Fuji, in local parlance, Yu-ga-take. 
Kawakami would be the best place 
from which to make the ascent. 
Unfortunately, the villagers have a 
superstition to the effect that climb- 
ing the mountain provokes a tem- 
pest, and therefore only do so when 
they wish to call down rain in time 
of drought. 

Schedule of railway from Beppu 
to Nakatsu. For the section be- 
tween Nakatsu and Moji, see Boute 
61. 



Distance 




from 


Names of Stations 


Beppu 




Miles 


BEPPU 


3J 


Kamegawa 


n 


Kashiranari 


n 


Hiji 


14f 


Kitsuki 


20J 


Nakayamaga 


23£ 


Tateishi 


28f 


• USA 



472 



Route 67. — Kumamoto to Nobeoka and Oita. 



31f 


Buzen Nagasu 


32f 


Yanagi-ga-ura 


35 


Yokkaiehi 


38} 


Imazu 


39f 


Osada 


42f 


NAKATSU 



EOUTE 67. 

From Kumamoto to Nobeoka 
and Oita. 

[Ascent of Sobo-san. South 
Eastern Kyxtshu.] 

Except for the first stage over the 
Kumamoto plain, the natural beau- 
ties of this route can be best ap- 
preciated by the pedestrian. Basha 
may, however, be used for the whole 
distance between Kumamoto and 
Takeshita (though it is necessary to 
walk over parts between Shimmachi 
and Kawachi), or on to Nobeoka. 
Jinrikishas are also practicable, but 
expensive. 

As far as Tochinoki Shin-yu, the 
Itinerary coincides with that given 
on p. 467. The rest is as follows : — 

TOCHINOKI SHIN-YU to:— 

M Gho M. 

Shimmachi (Higo). 3 — 1\ 

Takamori 1 10 3£ 

Kawachi 8 — 19J 

Mitai 2 10 5J 

Miyamizu 4 19} 

Shimmachi(Hyuga) 2 29 6| 

Takeshita 1 27 4£ 

NOBEOKA (6 hrs. 

byboat,or) 6 10 15J 

Kumata 4 1 9| 

Ohara 6 26 16£ 

Onoichi 2 25 6J 

Mie 4 29 llf 

Hosonaga 3 — 7J 

Tsurusaki (5 hrs. 

_ by boat) 

OITA 2 10 5J 

Total 52 34 129£ 



Plus 5 hrs. by boat. 

The best stopping-places between 
Tochinoki and Nobeoka are Taka- 
mori (Inn, Tamatsu-ya) and Mitai 
(Inn, Kanaya). 

The country between Takamori 
and Mitai is very beautiful, espe- 
cially in the narrow valley called 
Kawa-bashiri, 2| ri beyond Taka- 
mori. Cryptomerias nearly 200 ft. 
high rise up on the other side of the 
valley. 

At Kusakabe, not far from Kawa- 
chi, stands the Yoshimi Jinja, the 
reputed burial-place of one of the 
sons of Jimmu Tenno. 

[Sobo-san, the highest mountain 
(5,762 ft.) in Kyushu, can be 
most easily ascended from Ka- 
wachi. The way hence lies 
over the Mieno-tbge, (2,800 ft.), 
and through the vill. of Goka- 
shb, 1J hr. from Kawachi, the 
actual ascent commencing at a 
torrent bed f hr. further. The 
climb, which is very rough and 
steep— especially the last 1,000 
ft. — will take a good mountain- 
eer 2 hrs. from Gokasho, or 5 
hrs. from Kawachi, including 
stoppages. The profusion of 
maples on the sides of the 
mountain opposite is a wonder- 
ful spectacle in autumn. The 
summit of Sobo, which is 
crowned by a torii and a small 
stone shrine, affords a grand pa- 
norama of mountains stretch- 
ing range beyond range and 
peak beyond peak. To the 
N.E. appears the sea in the 
vicinity of Oita, and even the 
island of Shikoku is visible in 
clear weather. The descent to 
Kawachi occupies 4J hrs. 

Instead of descending to 
Mitai on the S., it would be 
feasible to go down to Takeda 
on the N. side. This, by com- 
bining the section of the previ- 
ous route from Takeda to 
Beppu and Moji, would make 
an excellent trip.] 



Nobeoka. Oita. 



473 



Leaving Mitai, the road enters a 
magnificent gorge, through -which 
runs a deep, emerald-green river, 
with rocky walls rising on either 
side to a height of several hundred 
feet. These walls once formed 
part of a huge lava stream, which 
flowed down from the crater of 
Aso-san. 

[Off the road, about 3 ri to the 
N.E. of Mitai, lies a cave called 
Ama no Iicato, in which is 
localised the legend of the 
retirement of the Sun- Goddess 
Ama-terasu, for which see p. 
43.] 
Miyaniizu (fair accommoda- 
tion) is prettily situated among 
the hills. The road onwards fol- 
lows the Gokase-gawa to Shirn- 
machi, in whose vicinity he some 
old copper mines. From 

Takeshi ta (better sleep at post- 
ofhce than at the inn), boat can be 
taken down the river, which has 
some foaming rapids and over- 
hanging rocks. Traps are used on 
this river for catching trout. They 
consist of a kind of chevaux-de- 
frise, made of bamboo and fixed 
transversely across the stream at 
the top of the rapids, the force of 
the current being there so great 
that the fish, when once caught in 
the trap, find escape impossible. 

Nobeoka (Inn, Kome-ya) is a 
considerable town built on both 
sides of the Gokase-gawa. Its port, 
Todoro, lies 2$ ri to the S. by jinriki- 
sha road. Two and a half ri to 
the N.W. is the waterfall of Muka- 
baki, whose height is estimated at 
240 ft., its breadth at 30 ft. 

Nobeoka was the last stronghold of the 
Satsuma rebels. On the lith August, 
1877, the town surrendered,— 8,000 insur- 
gents, among whom nearly 3,000 wound- 
ed, giving themselves up. The rebel chief 
Saigo, with 500 devoted followers, fought 
his way out and escaped to Kagoshima. 

[A jinrikisha road leads south- 
wards from Nobeoka along the 
coast to Miyazaki and Miyako- 
no-jo, — good inns at both 



towns. The Province ofHyuga, 
through which the way lies so 
far, is sparsely inhabited by a 
population poor, primitive, and 
holding little intercourse with 
the_outer world. The Province 
of Osumi is then entered, and 
the railway rejoined at Kokubu. 
Total distance from Nobeoka, 
116 miles.] 

On leaving Nobeoka, the road 
follows up the Kitagawa from its 
mouth until it becomes a tiny rill. 
After crossing the Akarnatsu-toge, 
1,250 ft. above the sea, fair accom- 
modation may be had at a farm- 
house at Ohara. 

The chief feature of the next 
day's journey consists in the high 
passes that have to be crossed, — 
first the Onoichi-toge, where a fierce 
battle was fought during the 
Satsuma Rebellion, and the beau- 
tiful Mikuni-tbge, 2,150 ft. high, so 
called because portions of the three 
provinces of Hyuga, Bungo, and 
Higo are visible from the top. 
From the summit of this pass to 

Mie (Inn, Fuji-ya), is about 2 ri 
of constant ascents and descents. 
Quitting this town, the road at first 
passes along a fine avenue of 
cryptomerias, and then descends to 
meet the river Ono-gawa at Hoso- 
naga, a small cluster of houses. 
Some travellers may prefer to aban- 
don the road here, and engage a 
boat for the rest of the way to Tsu- 
rusaki on the __ coast, whence by 
jinrikisha to Oita (see p. 470). 
The voyage down the river in- 
cludes the shooting of a fine rapid. 
If it be wished to shorten this trip 
and yet retain the best part of it, 
the boat journey from Hosonaga 
may be ended at Ichiba, which is 
only an hour or so down the river, 
and includes the finest rapid. 

[A fine road, passing through 
beautiful scenery, diverges near 
Mie to Usuki on the coast, 7 
ri 28 did (18 J m.), with many 
inns.] 



474 



Route 68. — The Goto Islands and Tsushima. 



KOUTE 68. 



The Goto Islands and Tsushima. 

An opportunity of visiting these 
outlying members of the Japanese 
archipelago is afforded by various 
steamers that ply from Nagasaki 
to Korea. 

Fukue (Inn, Shiozuka-ya), capi- 
tal of the island of the same name, 
the largest of the Goto group, is 
about 50 miles distant from Naga- 
saki. The steamer stays here a few 
hours, affording time to see the 
remains of the old Daimyo's castle 
and the garden. Near the town are 
some striking dome-shaped hills, — 
probably extinct volcanoes, — now 
cultivated from base to summit, 
their craters being filled with shrubs 
and rank vegetation. 

Through the untiring efforts of the 
Roman Catholic missionaries, working in 
a field well-sown by their predecessors in 
the 16th and 17th centuries, the popula- 
tion of the Goto Islands consists largely 
of Christians. 

Izu-ga-h.ara [Inn, Yoshida-ya), 
the capital of Tsushima, about 100 
miles distant from Fukue, is charm- 



ingly situated in a ravine enclosed 
by wooded hills, some of which are 
about 1,200 ft. high. 

Tsushima has an area of 262 sq. 
miles, and is equidistant from the 
Japanese island of Iki and from 
Korea, being 48 m. from each. A 
deep sound divides it into two 
unequal parts. The southern por- 
tion is mountainous (2,100 ft. high), 
the northern much lower. The 
principal product of the island is 
dried cuttle-fish (ika). 

Tsushima means " the island of the 
port," a name probably bestowed from 
the fact of this place, with its fine 
harbours, having been from time im- 
memorial the midway halting-place for 
junks plying between Japan and the 
mainland of Asia. Tsushima is mention- 
ed in the KojiJci as one of the "Eight 
Great Islands " of Japan, to which Izanagi 
and Tzanami gave birth at the beginning 
of all things. In latter days, the Daimyo 
of Tsushima served as intermediary in 
all negotiations between Japan and 
Korea. Kublai Khan's soldiers landed 
on Tsushima, and also on Iki, when 
preparing to invade Japan in the 13th 
century, but were repulsed and their 
commander slain. The Russians endeav- 
oured to obtain a footing in Tsushima 
in 1860, but were soon forced by British 
intervention to abandon the attempt. It 
was to the N. of this island that, in 1905, 
Admiral Togo annihilated the Russian 
fleet of 49 ships. 



SECTION VI. 
NORTHERN JAPAN, 

Routes 69 — 77. 



Route 69. — The Northern Railway. 



±11 



KOUTE 69. 

(Gf. map facing p. 97.) 

The Nobtheen Eailway. 

fbom toky5 to aomori by bail, 
azttma-yama. z55-san. sendai. 
the kitakami-gawa. ascent of 
ganju-san. 



9 


Names 




p S'£> 






|2g 


of 


Remarks 


s H 


Stations 




Miles 


TOKYO (Ueno) 


See p. 221. 


H 


Nippori 




2| 


Tabata Jet. 




4 


Oji 


/Change trains 




1 in coming S. 


** 


Akabane Jet 


J for Shimba- 
) shi (Tokyo) 


n 


Kawaguchi- 
machi 


[ and Yoko- 
V hama. 


10 


Warabi 




12| 


Urawa 








(For Takasaki 


16f 


Omiya Jet 


< and Karui- 
( zawa. 


221 


Hasuda 




28^ 


Kuki 




33$ 


Kurihashi 




38 


Koga 




43i 


Mamada 




48 


OYAMA Jet 


( For Maebashi 
( andforMito. 


52$ 


Koganei 




57 


Ishibashi 




61 


Suzume-no-miya 




65| 


UTSU-NO-MIYA 


( Change for 
[ Nikko. 


69} 


Okamoto 


73 


Hoshakuji 




76f 


Uji-ie 




81! 


Kataoka 




85| 


Yaita 




89 


Nozaki 




92 


Nishi Nasuno .... 


( Alight for 
\ Shiobara. 


96 


Higashi Nasuno 




991 


Kuroiso 


Alight for Nasu. 


1041 


Kurodahara 


109* 


Toyohara 




llof 


SHIRAKAWA 




1211 


Izumi-saki 




125 


Yabuki 




1321 


Sukagawa 








( Change for 


1391 


KORIYAMA .... 


< Bandai and 
( Wakamatsu. 


143 


Hiwada 




148 


Motomiya 




154 


Nihon-matsu 





159| 


Matsukawa 


( Change for 
\ O-U Rly. 


168 


FUKUSHIMA 


173 J 


Nagaoka 




1761 


Kori 




184i 


Kosugo 




1891 


Shiraishi 




197$ 


Ogawara 




2021 


TsukinoM 




2061 


Iwanuma Jet .... 


( For EastCoast 
1. Railway. 


210| 


Masuda 




214$ 


Nagamachi 


(Branch to 


2171 


SENDAI 


< Shiogamafor 
( Matsushima. 


2221 


Iwakiri 




224| 


Rifu 




232 


Matsushima 




238$ 
2441 
251f 


Kashiraadai 
Kogota 


( Branch for 
( Ishi-no-maki. 


Semine 


257 


Nitta 




261$ 


Ishikoshi 




2661 


Hanaizumi 




274 


ICHI-NO-SEKI 




2781 


Hiraizumi 




283 


Maesawa 




289$ 


Mizusawa 




2941 


Kane-ga-saki 




3001 


Kurosawa- jiri .... 


Road to Yokote. 


308 


Hanamaki 




315 


Ishidoriya 




318$ 


Hizume 




323f 


Yahaba 




330 


MORIOKA 


Road to Akita. 


343 


Koma 




346§ 


Kawaguchi 




349$ 


Numakunai 




3571 


Nakayama 




367 


Kozuya 




3691 


Ichi-no-he 




373f 


Fukuoka 




378* 


Kintaichi 




385 


San-no-he.. ...... 


(Road to To- 


390f 


Ken-yoshi 


( wada. 


397$ 


Shiriuchi 


( Branch to 


404$ 


Shimoda 


\ Hachi-no-he. 


410| 


Furumaki 




4171 


Numasaki 




421$ 


Otsutomo 




430$ 


Noheji 




4341 


Kariba-sawa 




441 


Kominato 




447i 


Asamushi 




450| 


Nouchi 




4551 


Uramachi 




457 


AOMORI 





The Northern Bail way_ follows the 
old highway called the Oshu Kaido, 
except between Sendai and Ichi-no- 
seki, and again in the extreme N. 
between San- no -he and Noheji, in 
both of which sections it bends 



478 



Route 69. — The Northern Railway. 



eastward to avoid the hills. The 
Oshu Kaidd is well maintained 
throughout its length of 191 ri from 
Tokyo to Aomori. The pines, cryp- 
tomerias, and other conifers lining 
it are frequently seen from the 
carriage windows ; but not until 
the train reaches Utsu-no-miya, with 
the glorious range of mountains 
rising in the background, does this 
railway route afford much in the 
way of natural beauty. The best 
places to break the journey at are 
Fukushima, Sendai, and Morioka. 

As far as Omiya, the Northern 
line coincides with the Tokyo- Taka- 
saki Eailway described on p. 172. 
A short distance beyond Kurihashi, 
the Tonegawa is crossed. 

This river, which waters the plain of 
Tokyo, rises on Hodaka-yama in the prov- 
ince of Kotsuke, and after a course of 
170 miles, empties itself into the Pacific 
at Choshi, while a second arm falls 
into Tokyo Bay. The name Tone seems 
to be a relic of the time when the 
Ainos inhabited Eastern Japan, before 
the occupation of the country by the 
Japanese. It is a corruption of the Aino 
word tanne, " long," this river having 
naturally been called the Long Eiver, in 
contradistinction to the shorter ones of 
the same district. 

Koga (Inn, Ota-ya). Beyond 
this place many mountains come 
in view, — the twin peaks of Tsuku- 
ba on the r. (see p. 145), and the 
Ashikaga hills to the 1., with the 
giants of Nikko looming in the 
distance ahead. 

Oyama (Inn, Kado-ya) is a 
prosperous town, where a line to 
Maebashi for Ikao (see p. 190) 
branches off 1., through a rich silk 
district. Another branch line here 
diverges r. to Mito (p. 222), 41^ m. 

Utsu-no-miya (Inn, *Shirokiya, 
Europ. food; Bestt., at station), 
capital of the prefecture of Tochigi, 
takes its name from the large Shin- 
to temple (miya) of Futa-ara-yama 
also called Nikko Dai-myoji. — The 
Kinugawa, whose erratic course in 
flood-time has given much trouble 
to the railway engineers, is crossed 
beyond Okamoto, whence alternate 



cultivation and woods characterise 
the country until the line enters the 
wide plain of Nasu, in the midst of 
which stands 

Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Yamato- 
ya), the station for the mineral 
springs of Shiobara described on p. 
213. From Yaita, but especially 
from Nishi-Nasuno onwards, there 
is a fine view of the Shiobara mount- 
ains, stretching from S. W. to N. E., 
and ending in the peak of Nasu- 
yama, which may be distinguished 
by the mass of white vapour rising 
from the crater on its "W. side. At 

Kuroiso (Inn, Tabako-ya), the 
traveller alights for the springs of 
Nasu. (p. 214) at the foot of the 
active volcano of the same name. 
The highest point of the range to 
the r. of the line is Yamizo-yama. 
The railway continues to ascend by 
steep gradients, until an elevation 
of 1,160 ft. is reached at 

Shirakawa (Inn, Yanagi-ya), 
formerly the seat of a Daimyo. The 
train passes within sight of the 
ruins of the old castle. The town 
is situated on the upper waters of 
the Abukuma-gawa, which rises on 
Asahi-dake, and flowing N.., falls 
into the Bay of Sendai, — total 
length, 125 m. In the neighbour- 
hood of Yabuki lies an Imperial 
domain with game preserves. 

Koriyama (Inn, Kimura-ya, at 
station) is a prosperous town, in 
whose vicinity silkworm-breeding 
and the manufacture of silk are 
extensively carried on. An electric 
tramway runs from the station to 
Miharu, 8 m. distant. The massive 
mountain group on the 1., between 
Motomiya and Nihon-matsu, is Ada- 
tara-san (4,650 ft.). It shuts out all 
view of Bandai-san, which, from 
certain points, it resembles. 

Ninon - matsu (Inn, Yamato- 
ya), where tobacco is produced and 
horses are bred for the army, stands 
on the side of a steep hill, and 
extends 1 ri in length. It is one 
of the principal silk-producing 
localities in the province of Iwa- 



Fukushima. Azuma-yam a. 



479 



shiro. The valley of the Abukuma- 
gawa opens out soon after Mafsu- 
kaica, affording a fine prospect over 
the country to the 1. 

Fukushima (Inns, *Fuji-kin, 
Matsuba-kwan ; both with branch at 
station) is the capital of the pre- 
fecture of the same name, and is 
an important centre of the trade in 
raw silk and silkworms' eggs. 
Here travellers bound for Yarna- 
gata or Akita have to break the 
journey. The pine-clad hill called 
Shinobu-yama, a prominent feature 
in the landscape, affords a fine view 
of the wide mountain-girt plain. 
One side of the hill is laid out as a 
Public Garden. About 1 J ri distant 
by jinrikisha, is a small temple of 
the Tendai sect, known as Shinobu 
Jilojizuri Kicannon, where, in a 
pagoda are enshrined images of the 
Gochi Kyoraiy or Five Personifica- 
tions of Wisdom. The Mojizuri-ishi, 
or "letter-rubbing stone", is a 
huge block of granite to which 
frequent allusion is made in Japa- 
nese poetry ; but neither the origin 
nor the appropriateness of the name 
of the stone can be verified. 

Tradition asserts that the plain in which 
Fukushima lies was anciently the site of 
a large lake, near whose centre Shinobu- 
yama formed an island. History makes 
no mention of the town until some three 
or four hundred years ago, while lizaka, 
just beyond the plain, is frequently refer- 
red to. When Yoshitsune, flying north- 
ward from the machinations ofYoritomo, 
found refuge in the castle of Otori, near 
lizaka, it is said that he reached it by the 
circuitous road which still skirts the base 
of Azuma-yama, because no shorter route 
then existed. Further, a stone tablet 
near the Sbinobu stone records the arrival 
there of an official from Kyoto by boat 
from the west side of the lake. 

[To the W. of Fukushima rises 
Azuma-yama (6.365 ft.), a 
volcano which has been the 
scene of several eruptions 
since the year 1893. 

The latest occurred in July, 1900. 
The ashes covered the country for a 
distance of 5 miles, accumulating in 
some places to a depth of 5 ft. The 
crater then formed measures about 



300 ft. in diameter, and as many in 
depth. 

The way to Azuma-yama 
passes through Niwasaka, 4f 
m. by train from Fukushima, 
and Takayu, 2J ri on foot, 
where sleep at inn with sulphur 
spring ; thence 4 to 5 hrs. walk 
to the summit of the mountain, 
where the main crater, now 
extinct, is occupied by a beauti- 
ful lake, J m. in diameter.] 

A light railway runs from Fuku- 
shima station via Xagaoka, the 
next station, to the mineral baths of 
lizaka [Inn, *Xwasui-kwan) in 1\ 
hr. — An interesting 1 J hr. walk from 
lizaka is to the Anabara gorge, 
where the river narrows and rushes 
with great velocity between lofty 
cliifs, and there are sulphur springs 
on the bank. 

From Kaori, the silver mines of 
Haiida may be reached in 1 hr. 
Here the hills close in on the 1., the 
line climbing up their lower slopes. 
The view r. of the plain, and of the 
coast range that separates it from 
the Pacific Ocean, is very striking. 
Some interesting river scenery is to 
be found a few miles to the west 
of 

Shiroishi, at the hot springs 
of Obara, and, 1 hr. beyond by 
jinrikisha, at the Zaimoku-iwa, or 
" Timber Bocks," so called from 
their stratified formation. 

Ogawara is the nearest station 
to the saline springs of Aone. 

[A good excursion from Aone is 
to the summit of Z6-6-san 
(6,440 ft.), a volcano, now qui- 
escent. Distance 3 ri, half of 
which is a gentle ascent through 
an oak "forest. Shrines stand 
on the two highest points. A 
lake occupies what apparently 
was the crater. By going round 
this lake, the descent to Aone 
may be made by a path differ- 
ent from the ascent.] 

For several miles the line follows 



480 



Route 69. — The Northern Railway. 






the r. bank of the Shiroishi-gawa, 
the old highway, with its stately- 
avenue of cryptomerias, marking 
the 1. bank, until both are crossed 
and the river finally lost sight of 
near Tsukinoki. 

Iwanuma is the junction where 
the East Coast Eailway (see p. 221) 
joins the Northern line. Hence we 
proceed through level country to 

Sendai (Sendai Hotel, Mutsu 
Hotel, Europ. style, opposite station ; 
*Harikyu, Europ. dishes, and many 
others). This town, capital of the 
province of Eikuzen and of the 
prefecture of Miyagi, is situated on 
the 1. bank of the Hirose-gawa, and 
was formerly the seat of Date 
Mutsu-no-Kami, the greatest of the 
northern Daimyos. The castle, a 
fine natural stronghold, lying on 
the r. bank of the river, was 
partially destroyed during the civil 
war of 1868. The remaining por- 
tion is used as quarters for the 
officers of the garrison, and is 
not open to the public. Sendai 
is noted for its manufacture of 
ornamental articles, such as trays, 
etc., made of fossil wood (jindai- 
boku), which is found in a hill near 
the town, for chests of drawers 
{tansu) with elaborate ornamental 
iron fittings, also for a kind of 
cloth called shifu-ori, made of silk 
and paper and suitable for summer 
use. There is a permanent In- 
dustrial Exhibition {Hakubutsu- 
kwan), where specimens of the 
chief industries of the province are 
for sale. The small Public Garden 
(Sakura-ga-oka), with many cherry- 
trees, commands a good view to- 
wards the castle and the mountain 
ranges beyond. The Convict Prison 
of Sendai is one of the largest in 
Japan. Outside the city, at Arama- 
ki on the N., are numerous potteries 
for the manufacture of coarse pans 
and jars. 

Though Sendai is ordinarily 
treated as a mere place of rest 
by the traveller en route to Matsu- 
shima or Yezo, a few hours may 
profitably be spent there in visit- 



ing the temple of Zuiho-den, where 
lie the ashes of Date Masamune, 
and returning via Atago-san. The 
temple stands on Zuiho-san, a part 
of the old castle grounds, and is 
approached by an avenue of lofty 
cedars. Just beyond the first torii 
is a large stone tablet, erected to 
the memory of over a hundred Sen- 
dai men who fell combating the 
Satsuma Rebellion. The temple is 
then reached by a flight of steps. 
The sixteen-pet ailed chrysanthe- 
mum (a crest on the outer gate 
ratained by special permission of 
the Emperor), and the fine bronze 
cistern close by, deserve inspection. 
The Haiden is of black lacquer, with 
coloured cornices. The Kara-mon 
gate has some good carvings of tigers 
and dragons ; but they are inferior 
to those on the Oku-no-in, where 
the projecting rafters take the shape 
of carvings of mythological mon- 
sters. Within is the tomb, having 
upon it a finely executed statue 
of Date Masamune. On each side 
of the Oku-no-in stand stone monu- 
ments to the memory of twenty 
faithful retainers who, when their 
lord died, sacrificed their own lives 
in order to follow him to the land of 
shades. The place is surrounded 
by lofty cryptomerias, and resem- 
bles, but on a much less magnificent 
scale, the site of Ieyasu's tomb at 
Mkko. The monument close by, 
erected by Date Masamoto, records 
the loss of a thousand men of Sendai 
in the war of the Restoration. Two 
other temples of some local note 
stand close to Zuiho-den on the 
opposite side of the road. 

A path leads down the valley 
behind, then up Atago-san, which 
is a ridge facing the town and 
commanding a beautiful view: — 
the river winds round the foot 
of the hill, the city spreads out 
in front embedded in a mass of 
foliage, the " seven hills " of Nana- 
tsu-mori stand in a row behind, 
while r. stretches a broken country 
consisting of uplands dotted with 
clumps of trees, and an open plain 



Sendai Monastery of Chusonji 



481 



beyond extending to the sea. The 
summit of Kinkwa-zan is also 
visible on clear days. 

In spring-time, the centre of at- 
traction to the townsfolk is the 
cherry plantation and avenue of the 
temple of Shaka. 

[A day's jinrikisha journey (16 J 
ri) through delightful scen- 
ery, takes one from Sendai to 
Tendb, a station near Yama- 
gata, see Eoute 74. The best 
place on the way is the hot 
spring resort of Sakunami, 7 ri 
from Sendai.] 

Diverging to the E., the railway 
line passes through a fertile stretch 
of country, with little to arrest the 
traveller's attention. 

Matsushima (Inn, at station) 
takes its name from the pine-clad 
isles in the Bay of Sendai, 1 ri 
distant. For a description of this 
celebrated spot, see Eoute 73. 
Between this station and the next, 
we pass r., a large mere called 
Shinai-numa. A private line of rail- 
way runs from Kogota to Ishi-no- 
maki, at the mouth of the Kitakami- 
gawa, a distance of 17 J miles. The 
saddle-shaped peak in the distance, 
far to the 1. of the station of Ishi- 
koshi, is one of the many Japanese 
mountains called Koma-ga-take, or 
" Pony Peak." 

Icni-no-seki (Inn, Ishibashi) lies 
in a valley on the banks of the 
Iwai-gawa. Here the railway strikes 
another valley, that of the Kita- 
kami-gaica, which it follows up past 
I\Iorioka. 

This important river rises at the Till. 
of Mido on the northern frontier of the 
nrovince of Rilmchu, and has a course 
of about 175 m. due S. to Ko-Funakoshi, 
where it divides into two branches, one 
Sowing S. into the Bay of Sendai at Ishi- 
no-maki, the other into the Pacific Ocean. 
It has numerous affluents, and affords 
ready means of transport for the produce 
of the large area drained by it. 

[From Kozenji (no accommoda- 
tion), 1 ri from Ichi-no-seki by 
jinrikisha, small steamers run 



every other day to Ishi-no-maki 
and Shiogama, starting early, 
and reaching Ishi-no-maki 
about noon. After a short stay, 
the steamer ascends the river 
again to enter the Xobiru Canal, 
and then passing through the 
Matsushima archipelago, reach- 
es Shiogama about 4 p. m. 
Delays, however, are frequent. 
The river scenery is pretty in 
parts. Fishing-stations, from 
which large square nets are 
dropped into the river by levers, 
are seen on the perpendicular 
bluffs.] 

Hira-izumi. At a distance of 
20 cho from this station stands 
the far-famed monastery of Chu- 
sonji, in which many relics of 
Yoshitsune, and Benkei (pp. 86 and 
71) and other mediaeval warriors 
are preserved. 

Chusonji was founded by Jikaku Daishi 
in the 9th century, and attained its 
greatest prosperity under the patronage 
of Fujiwara Kiyohira at the beginning 
of the 12th century. The buildings once 
numbered as many as forty, with dwel- 
lings for three hundred priests. 

There are no jinrikishas at Hira- 
izumi. The approach to Chusonji 
is up an avenue of grand crypto- 
merias. The principal buildings 
shown are the Jiz5-dd, Konjiki-dd, 
Issaikyd-do, and Benzaiten-do. All 
are plain wooden structures, except 
for some carvings and flower- 
paintings on the Jizb-do, the first 
building met with on the 1. of the 
avenue. It contains images of 
Yoshitsune and Benkei. In the 
Issaikyd-do are three sets of the 
sutras that form the canon 
of Buddhist scripture, — one a 
manuscript in gold letters, another 
in alternate lines of gold and silver, 
the third a printed copy dating 
from the Sung dynasty of China. 
The most interesting building is 
the Konjiki-dd, once covered with a 
coating of gold that gave it the 
name of Ilikaru-do, or Glittering 
Hall, by which it is still most 



482 



Route 69. — The Northern Railway. 



commonly known; but only faint 
traces of the gilding are now dis- 
cernible. In it repose the ashes of 
three redoubtable members of the 
Fujiwara family,— Kiyohira, Hide- 
hira, and Motohira. The main 
internal pillars are lacquered and 
inlaid with a kind of mother-of- 
pearl work called shippb zogan. On 
each of these are also observable 
traces of representations of twelve 
Buddhist deities. Here as else- 
where, however, time and neglect 
have left their mark. Among the 
treasures most prized, are two pic- 
tures of Chusonji by Kanaoka (p. 
56) also portraits of Yoshitsune and 
Benkei, — good bold pieces of colour- 
ing. The relics here include some 
fine images of the chief deities 
worshipped by the Tendai sect. 
Benkei's sword and other posses- 
sions may be seen in the Benzaiten- 
db. There is also a small museum 
which contains ancient kakemono, 
scrolls, weapons, etc. On the hill 
just opposite Chusonji (across the 
railway) and above some cliffs rising 
from the river, stood Yoshitsune's 
residence (Taka-date), now marked 
by a shrine, from which one of the 
best views of the valley of the 
Kitakami-gawa is obtained.— The 
visitor with an hour to spare might 
devote it to the remains of the 
temple of Moetsuji and the pond 
attached said to have been made 
by Hidehira. They lie within a few 
minutes of Hira-izumi station. Just 
before reaching 

Maisawa, the Koromo-gawa is 
crossed,— a river celebrated as the 
scene of the battle that ended the 
hero Yoshitsune's career. Notice, 
for many miles onward, how the 
wide rice plain is dotted with farm- 
steads, each protected by its grove 
of pine-trees. Near 

Mizusawa (Inn, Kame-nasu), is 
the site of the ancient military 
headquarters (GUnjufu) of the 
Governor-General of Oshu, a name 
which in early times included all 
N.E. Japan, The Wagakawa, a 



tributary of the Kitakami, is cross- 
ed just before reaching 

Kurosawa-jiri (Inn, Nambu 
Hotel). Here a picturesque road to 
Yokote (see p. 495) leads W. by the 
valley of the Wagakawa and over 
the mountains. 

Hanamaki. Three and a half 
ri from this place, up the valley of 
the _Toyosa wa, lie the hot springs 
of Osawa ; 1 ri further are Namari 
and Nishi Namari (Inn, Meiji- 
kwan), also spas, the latter of 
which affords the best accommoda- 
tion. The water is strongly im- 
pregnated with alum. Jinrikishas 
and basha available all the way. 
The most prominent mountains 
seen on the E. are Eokka-uchi- 
yama and Hayachine-yama ; on the 
W., Nansho-zan and Ganju-san. 
After passing Hizume, the line 
continues along the r. bank of the 
Kitakami-gawa, and crosses the 
river Shizuku-ishi at its junction 
with the Kitakami before entering 

Morioka (Inns, Mutsu-kwan, at 
station; Takayd, in Muika-cho). 
This, the capital of the prefecture of 
Iwate and formerly the seat of the 
Daimy5 of Nambu, lies 1 m. distant 
from its station, and is prettily 
situated in a plain guarded by 
Ganju-san and other lofty moun- 
tains. Morioka is noted for its 
kettles, spun-silk goods, and fruit, 
American apples and quinces being 
now extensively grown. — About 1 
ri from the town, a grove of crypto- 
meiias is seen on a bluff over- 
hanging the river. Here it was that 
the rebel Abe-no-Sadatd had his 
castle, which after a stubborn re- 
sistance, was overthrown by Hachi- 
man Taro (see p. 73). 

Among the hills to the E. of the 
town stand a number of decaying 
Buddhist temples, the best of which 
is Mo-onji, possessing well-preserved 
gilt images of the Five Hundred Ea- 
kan. The sepia drawing of a flying 
dragon on the ceiling, by an artist 
of the Kano school, displays much 
merit. Beyond the temples lie the 
graves of the Nambu family on a 



Ascent of Ganju-san. 



483 



bluff, whence a good view may be 
had of the town and valley. 

The former castle grounds have 
been prettily laid out as a park. 

[Ganju-san, also called Iwate- 
san (6,800 ft.), is, from its 
regular logarithmic curves, a 
beautiful object to those travel- 
ling up or down the Northern 
line. It can be ascended from 
Morioka by starting early in 
a jinrikisha with two men, and 
going to the sulphur baths of 
Daishaku, 7 ri distant on the 
lower slopes of the mountain, 
the water for which is brought 
down in pipes from Amihari, 2 
miles higher up. The jinriki- 
sha should be left at the hamlet 
for the return journey. 

It is a day's climb from 
Daishaku to the top of Ganju- 
san and back ; but the traveller 
has two nights' rest, and hot 
sulphur baths to refresh his 
weary limbs. The ascent is 
easy for the first few miles ; 
but gradually it begins to zig- 
zag up, between, and over the 
roots of trees. Sometimes it 
follows the ridge of a spur, and 
then descends to cross a valley, 
in one place coming out on a 
solfatara, where hot water boils 
up and mingles with a cold 
stream. The structure of the 
mountain may be compared to 
three joints of a telescope, there 
being a lower thick cone, then 
a rim or crater, then a second 
cone followed by a second rim 
or crater, and finally a third 
cone. On reaching the outside 
of the first crater, a slight de- 
tour brings one to a ridge sep- 
arating two little lakes. From 
this spot there is another steep 
climb to the rim of the second 
crater, on the floor of which 
stands a hut for pilgrims. The 
last part of the ascent from 
here is up a slope of fine lapilli, 
inclined at an angle of 27°. 
The top of the mountain is 



really the knife-like edge of 
another crater, | mile in 
diameter, in whose centre rises 
a small cone breached on 
its S.E. side. 

On returning, it is better to 
take the direct road towards 
the vill. of Shizuku-ishi (4 ri 7 
cho from Morioka), crossing the 
ridge of the outside crater just 
behind the pilgrims' hut, and 
descending a long rocky spur. 
The return from Daishaku may 
be varied by crossing the river 
Shizuku-ishi at the ferry, and 
going to the pleasant hot 
springs of Tsunagi. By follow- 
ing a short way further up the 
valley, the baths of Oshuku, or 
Uguisu-no-yado (the "Nightin- 
gales' Abode "), are reached. 
From this place the road to 
Morioka, some 13 m., leads 
along the r. bank of the river 
Shizuku-ishi. 

Those pressed for time can 
ascend Ganju-san most expedi- 
tiously from Yanagizawa-mura, 
about 4 ri from Morioka, start- 
ing on horseback in the after- 
noon. The accommodation is 
poor ; but by engaging guides 
and using torches, the ascent 
can be begun about midnight 
and the top reached at daylight, 
— distance only 2 ri 23 cho. 
The climb is so steep in places 
that chains are fastened in the 
rocks to hold on by.] 

Leaving Morioka, we enter on by 
far the finest section of the whole 
railway journey, — 5 hrs. of constant 
picturesque change, occasionally 
recalling parts of Scotland. The 
line first runs over a moor at the 
base of Ganju-san, to 

Soma, where to the immediate 
r. rises another lovely cone called 
Himegami-dake. Behind it, on the 
slopes of Satoyama, is a stud for 
the Imperial stables. 

Apropos of this, it may be interesting 
to note that mares are almost exclusive- 
ly ^used in Northern Japan, whereas in 



484 



Route 69. — The Northern Railway. 



Tokyo and its neighbourhood only stal- 
lions are to be seen. 

A good road leads 1. from this 
station to the mining district of 
Kazuno, distant some 14 ri. The 
Kitakami-gawa, which we have so 
long followed, is crossed before Ka- 
waguchi, whence between pine-clad 
hills to Numakunai, the last vill. in 
the valley of the Kitakami, and over 
the Nakayama-toge into the valley 
of the Mabechi-gawa. 

Nakayama, at the summit of 
the pass, 1,500 ft. above the sea, 
is the highest point reached on the 
whole journey from T6ky5 to Ao- 
mori. In the immediate vicinity is 
a large remount depot of the War 
Department. Delightful is now 
the run down the narrow valley of 
the Mabechi-gawa, amongst hills 
crowned with every variety of tim- 
ber, the river flashing in and out as 
the train crosses and recrosses it. 
Lacquer-trees line the pathways, 
and dot the fields at the base of the 
hills. But the views on this part 
of the journey gain greatly from 
being taken in the reverse direction. 
Many long tunnels occur in this 
section. After 

Ichi-no-lie (Inn, Horiguchi), 

Ichi-no-he means the "first gate" or 
" outpost," San-no-he the third, and so 
on, the occurrence of these peculiar 
names in North -Eastern Japan being re- 
ferable to their origin in successive posts 
of defence against the Aino aborigines. 

occurs the longest of these tunnels, 
f m., on emerging from which we 
are greeted by a magnificent view, 
including r. the ridge of Sue-no- 
matsu-yama, celebrated in classical 
poetry. 

A well-known stanza runs as f ollows : 
Cliigiriki na 

Katami ni sode wo 
Shibori-tsutsu 
Sue-no-matsu-yama 
Nami Jcosaji to wa 

which conveys a vow of mutual love to 
last till the billows shall o'ertop this 
mountain's crest, that is, forever. 

Fukuoka [Inn, Murai), the best 



town between Morioka and Aomori, 
lies in a valley 1 J m. to the N.E. of 
its station. Notice the number of 
apple orchards around Kintaichi. 

San-no-he (Inns, Takko, Wada) 
is 1 ri south of its station. The 
conspicuous peak on the immediate 
r. of the line is Ragui-dake (2,660 ft.), 
which can be easily climbed in 2 
hrs., and affords a remarkable view, 
including Herai-dake and Hakoda- 
yama. — A rough road runs from 
San-no-he to Yasumiya, situated on 
the S.E. end of lovely Lake Towada, 
about 12 ri on horseback over the 
Furukura pass ; but the lake is best 
approached from Odate (p. 496). 

The most picturesque portion of 
the journey is now over. The 
railway, on leaving San-no-he, 
abandons the ancient highway, and 
makes a detour to the east. 

[The Oshu Kaidb passes through 
several fair-sized towns, and 
over rolling country appro- 
priate to grazing purposes. 
Sam-bon-gi, one of the chief 
places on the way, deserves a 
visit from those interested in 
horse-breeding. It lies 4 ri 
from Furumaki, a station fur- 
ther on. From Sam-bon-gi one 
may proceed to Shichi-no-he, 
3 ri, whence to the chief Gov- 
ernment stud on the slope of 
Hachiman-dake, 2 ri more.] 

Shiriuchi stands in an exten- 
sive rice-plain watered by the Ma- 
bechi-gawa, which by this time has 
become a wide sluggish stream, 
with low hills in the distance on 
every side. A branch line leads 
hence to the seaport of Haehi-no-he 
(Inn, Wakamatsu Hotel), 5 miles, 
near which lies the local holiday 
resort of Same. A short distance 
beyond 

Shimoda, we cross the Momo- 
ishi-gawa, a stream running out of 
Lake Towada and reputed to afford 
good salmon fishing ; thence over 
moorland, where horses and cattle 
are bred, to 



Bottle tO. — Wakamatsu and Bandai-san. 



m 



^"umasaki, situated on the bor- 
ders of the Kogaicara Lagoon, whose 
two parts are known respectively 
as Ane-numa and Iinoto-numa, or 
the Elder and Younger Sister. 

Xolieji (Inn, Kasumi-ya) is a 
port at the S.E. corner of Aomori 
Bay, from which a coast road runs 
due N. to the peninsula of Tonami 
(see Rte. 77). The line now follows 
the shore of Aomori Bay, partly 
under snow-sheds, to Kominato, and 
crosses the little peninsula that 
divides the bay into two parts. 
Here the prettily shaped hills of 
Tsugaru show up to the 1., like an 
assemblage of miniature Fujis. 
Continuing past 

Asamushi (Inn, Toku-kwan), 
noted for its hot springs and sea- 
bathing, and along the rocky shore, 
we at length reach Aomori, which 
has two stations, viz. Uramachi and 

A o in o r i (Bestaurant (Europ. 
food) at station, known as machi- 
ai, useful when only awaiting train 
or steamer ; Inns, Eagi-ya, with 
Europ. resit, at station ; Nakashima). 
This, the capital of the prefecture 
of the same name, stands at the 
head of Aomori Bay and at the 
mouth of the small river Arakawa, 
which drains an extensive plain 
shut in by high hills. Quantities of 
salmon are caught in the bay ; and 
besides dried salmon and sharks' 
fins, furs from Yezo, and cheap 
lacquer are obtained here. The 
lacquer is of a peculiar variety, 
called Tsugarunuri, striped or mar- 
bled in several colours. Dainty 
basket-ware, made of a creeper 
called alcebi, is manufactured in 
large quantities. Aomori is the 
chief outlet for the large migration 
of country-people, who annually 
cross over to Yezo in the spring for 
the fisheries on the coast of that 
island, returning in autumn to their 
homes on the mainland. 

There is steam communication, 
twice daily, between Aomori and 
Hakodate, the distance of 56 miles 
taking 5 hrs. ; daily (leaving at 



night) between Aomori and Muro- 
ran, taking 12 hrs. The Hakodate 
boats provide European food. 



EOUTE 70. 

Wakamatsb and Bandai-san. 

The traveller starting from To- 
kyo has a 6§ hrs. journey by the 
Northern Railway (see previous 
Route) to Koriyama, where he 
changes to the Oan-Etsu Railway, 
of which the following is the 
schedule. Time, 3 hrs. ; or 10 J hrs. 
in all, including stoppage at Kori- 
yama. 



Distance 




from 


Names of Stations 


Koriyama 




Miles 


KORIYAMA 


5 


Hori-no-uchi 


n 


Akogashima 


n 


Atami 


12| 


Nakayama 


17 


Yamagata 


19} 


Sekito 


20f 


Kawageta 


23 


Iriawashiro 


25f 


Okina-jima 


31 


Odera 


36} 


Hirota 


39J 


WAKAMATSU 



Running across the plain in a 
north-westerly direction, the line 
enters a very narrow valley at 
Atami, where there are mineral 
springs. Beyond Nakayama, ob- 
serve r. a fine waterfall, power from 
which supplies Koriyama with the 
electric light. The train passes 
through a long tunnel and some 
snow-sheds on its way to 

Yamagata (Inn, Hdrai - ya), 



486 



Route 70. — Wakamatsu and Bandai-san. 



which lies on the eastern shore of 
Lake Inawashiro, a large sheet of 
water measuring about 4 ri in every 
direction, and almost surrounded 
by thickly wooded hills. Above 
these last, on the N. shore, rises the 
sharp summit of Bandai-san. 

Lake Inawashiro appears to be a 
depression formed by evisceration of 
the ground, resulting from the copious 
outpourings of volcano matter in its 
vicinity. Its principal feeder, the river 
Nagase, the upper course of which was 
entirely stopped by the debris swept 
down during the eruption of 1888, again 
became the main source of supply after 
the formation of Lake Hibara by that 
eruption. It is plentifully stocked with 
salmon-trout and other fish. 

Another tunnel, and the Bandai 
group looms up grandly in front. 
After crossing the Naruse-gawa, the 
line sweeps round the base of the 
mountain. Of the lake only 
glimpses can be obtained. The 
small town of 

Inawashiro (Inn, Ise-ya), 
though not situated quite so close to 
the path up Bandai-san as the next 
wayside station, Okina-jima, is to 
be preferred, for the ease of getting 
horses and guides. But some pre- 
fer to go on and sleep at Wakamatsu, 
and take the first train back in the 
morning, guides, etc., being ar- 
ranged for by telegraph. After 
passing Okina-jima, the gradient 
becomes steep, and between Odera 
and Hirota, which latter station 
stands at the bottom of the col, 
there is an extensive cutting 
through agglomerate. This forma- 
tion doubtless testifies to many 
ancient eruptions; some of the 
andesite blocks are of enormous 



Wakamatsu [Inn, *Shimizu-ya), 
formerly the castle-town of the Dai- 
myo of Aizu, is situated nearly in the 
centre of a great oval plain of from 
10 to 12 ri in its longest diameter, 
constituting what is properly called 
the Aizu district. The plain is 
fertile and watered by many 
streams. Wakamatsu produces 



quantities of cheap lacquer [Aizu- 
nuri), — bowls, trays, luncheon- 
boxes, etc., for domestic use. 

The Aizu clan specially distinguished 
itself fighting on the Shogun's side during 
the civil war of 1868 : — indeed, their ene- 
mies termed them " the root of the rebel- 
lion." Even lads of fourteen and fifteen 
years followed their fathers into the field. 
Many ladies, too, put an end to their 
lives rather than submit to the foe. On 
the hill called Iimori-san, about 1 ri 
to the E. of the town, lie the graves of 
the Byakko-tai, or "White Tiger Band," 
— nineteen young men who committed 
harakiri when, a fire breaking out in the 
vicinity of the castle, they thought that 
the castle itself had been captured. 

The Daimyo's castle — the last to 
stand out for the Shogun — occupied 
low ground on the southern out- 
skirts of the town; but the build- 
ings have been destroyed. The 
massive stone walls, some fine old 
trees, and ruins of moats still suf- 
ficiently attest the former grandeur 
of the place. 

Some travellers might prefer to 
stay at Higashi-yama (Inn, *Shin- 
taki), a village of tea-houses 30 cho 
to the S.E. of the town, situated in 
a deep wooded ravine through which 
flows a brawling stream, and much 
frequented on account of its hot 
springs. The waters, which gush 
out of the rocks on the r. bank and 
are led into the tea-houses, have 
neither taste nor smell. Their 
temperature varies from 122° to 
131° F. (A mountain road, with 
fine scenery and fair accommoda- 
tion runs hence to Shirakawa (16 
ri) on the Northern Eailway.) 

Bandai-san is the collective 
name of _a group of peaks consist- 
ing of O-Bandai, Kushi-ga-mine, 
and Akahani-yama, surrounding an 
elevated plain called Numa-no-taira. 
A fourth peak, called Ko-Bandai, 
disappeared in the eruption de- 
scribed below. This group, which 
stands on the N. side of Lake Ina- 
washiro, forms a conspicuous object 
in the landscape, O-Bandai, or 
"Great Bandai," being the most 
prominent of the peaks. Numa-no 



Ascent of Bandai-san. 



48? 



taira is supposed lo be the remains 
of the oiiginal crater, and the peaks 
mentioned are probably parts of 
the wall that encircled it. Within 
it were several small lakes or pools, 
as its name (lit. "marsh flat ") im- 
plies. It was also covered with 
dense forests, which were destroyed 
in the last great eruption. 

"On the morning of July 13th, 1888, 
the weather in the Bandai district was 
tine, there being scarcely a cloud ; and 
a gentle breeze was blowing from the 
W.JN T .W. Soon after 7 o'clock, curious 
rumbling noises were heard, which the 
people thought to be the sound of distant 
thunder. At about half -past 7, there 
occurred a tolerably severe earthquake, 
which lasted more than 20 seconds. This 
was followed soon after by a most violent 
shaking of the ground. At 7.45, while the 
ground was still heaving, the eruption 
of Ko-Bandai-san took place. A dense 
column of steam and dust shot into the 
air, making a tremendous noise. Explo- 
sions followed one after another, in all to 
the number of 15 or 20, the steam on each 
occasion except the last being described 
as having attained a height above the 
peaks about equivalent to that of O-Ban- 
dai as seen from Inawashiro, that is to 
say, some 1,280 metres, or 4,200 ft. The 
last explosion, however, is said to have 
projected its discharge almost horizon- 
tally towards the valley on the N. The 
main eruptions lasted for a minute or 
more, and were accompanied by thunder- 
ing sounds which, though rapidly lessen- 
ing in intensity, continued for nearly two 
hours. Meanwhile the dust and steam 
rapidly ascended, and spread into a great 
cloud like an open umbrella in shape, at 
a height equal to at least three or four 
times that of O-Bandai. At the immedi- 
ate foot of the mountain there was a rain 
of hot scalding ashes, accompanied by 
pitchy darkness. A little later, the dark- 
ness was still great, and a smart shower 
of rain fell, lasting for about rive minutes. 
The rain was quite warm. While dark- 
ness as aforesaid still shrouded the 
region, a mighty avalanche of earth and 
rock rushed at terrific speed down the 
mountain slopes, buried the Nagase valley 
with its villages and people, and devasta- 
ted an area of more than 70 square 
kilometres, or 27 square miles." — (Ab- 
ridged from an account published by 
Professors Sekiya and Kikuchi.) 

The total number of lives lost in this 
great cataclysm was 461. Four hamlets 
were completely buried, together with 
their inhabitants and cattle, and seven 
villages were partially destroyed. Whole 
forests were levelled by the shock, and 
rivers were blocked up by the ejected 



mud and rocks. The dammed-up waters 
of the Nagase-gawa formed three conside- 
rable lakes, one of which, L. Hibara, is 8 
miles long, and from 1 m. to 2 m. broad. 

In order to visit the site of the 
great eruption, the traveller takes 
either jinrikisha from Inawashiro 
for about 1 ri, or horse (which can 
also go a considerable way up the 
mountain). A path leads_over the 
grassy moor skirting O-Bandai, 
which it climbs for a long distance, 
reaching Yamanaka Onsen in 
about 2 hours. Thence the track 
follows the brink of the abyss, the 
last 1000 ft. being so steep as to 
necessitate clambering on hands 
and knees. This final scramble 
brings one to an overhanging edge, 
the line of fracture on Ko-Bandai, 
whence the scene of devastation 
far below bursts upon the eye with 
bewildering suddenness. The seat 
of the great explosion is yellowish 
mud streaked red, with patches of 
every colour. From numerous vents 
along the rifts, steam still escapes, 
accompanied by loud roarings and 
sulphur jets. To the N.W: stretches 
an area 8 miles long, which is a 
desolation of mud and rocks, dotted 
with pools of sulphurous water. 

It is possible to make the circuit 
of the Bandai group by following a 
track over the devastated area, and 
via the hamlets of Nagasaka and 
Mine; but this makes a very long 
and arduous day. Instead of at- 
tempting this, one may descend 
direct via Ottaie Onsen (about 2 ri) 
and Gosharamba (20 chb), whence 
20 chb more, practicable for jinriki- 
shas (if sent on from Inawashiro), 
to Okina-jima station. 

_ The ascent to the summit of 
O-Bandai (5,830 ft. above sea-level) 
involves some stiff climbing, espe- 
cially on the upper part, which has 
a gradient of 35". It is a sharp peak, 
terminating on one side in a sheer 
precipitous descent, and affords 
not only the most comprehensive 
view of the devastated area, but an 
extensive panorama to the south 



488 



Route 72. — From Niigata to Tsuru-ga-oha. 



and west, including the range of 
mountains on the borders of Hida 
and Etchu. 



ROUTE 71. 



Feom NlIGATA to Wakamatsu 
B£ the Valley of the Agano-gawa. 

Itinerary. 

NilGATA to Niitsu, by rail in j hr. 

NIITSU to:— Bi Chb M. 

Yasuda* 4 33 12 

KOMATSU 1 30 4J 

Kami-koyado 1 2 2£ 

Shirakawa 2 15 6 

TSUGAWA 2 15 6 

Torii 3 6 7f 

Mureoka 2 9 5| 

NOZAWA 1 26 4£ 

Kata-kado 3 16 8J 

Bange 1 28 4£ 

WAKAMATSU 3 13 8£ 

Total 28 13 69* 



Time, 2 days, with one man to 
the jinrikisha as far as Tsugawa, 
whence two men. The first night 
must be spent at Tsugawa, though 
this makes the second day's journey 
very long, the only other decent 
stopping-place being Nozawa, which 
is too far on. The road is excellent 
throughout, leading over the wide 
rice plain as far as Komatsu, whence 
along the valley of the Agano-gawa. 
The placidly flowing stream, dotted 
with the white sails of the boats 
that do most of the trade in this 
region, and the steep green hills of 
various shapes, combine to make a 



*The railway under construction con- 
necting Niitsu with Wakamatsu more or 
less follows this route. At present (1913) 
it is open from Niitsu to Uma-oroshi 
(Maoroshi), 12 m., and from Yamato to 
Wakamatsu, 17 m. 



charming scene, which culminates 
a couple of miles before Tsugawa 
in grand palisades of rock. Travel- 
lers in the opposite direction some- 
times do this portion by boat. The 
copper mine of Kusakura, one of the 
largest in Japan, may be made the 
object of a day's excursion from 
Tsugawa. 

After Tsugawa, the way to Waka- 
matsu leads over several hills, — the 
Torii-toge, Kuruma-toge, and Taba- 
ne-matsu-toge, all now levelled 
down to an easy gradient. From the 
top of the Kuruma-toge, Bandai-san 
(with Azuma-yama and Iide-san 
(6,230 ft.) to its 1.) is seen towering 
beyond the plain of Aizu, which is 
entered at a place called Kitano- 
miya, about 1 ri short of Bange. 
The Agano-gawa is seen again on 
the second day's journey, with lower 
cliffs. 

Wakamatsu (see p. 486). 



EOUTE 72. 



Feom Niigata to Tstjeu-ga-oka. 



Itinerary. 






NlIGATA to:— 


Bi Cho 


M. 


Kisaki 


. 4 


— 


n 


Shibata 


. 3 


12 


8* 


Nakaio 


. 4 


23 


iH 


Murakami 


. 6 


30 


16f 


Shiono-machi 


. 4 


— 


9f 


Nakamura 


. 4 


34 


12 


Nezumi-ga-seki .. 


. 5 


24 


13f 


Atsumi 


. 2 


18 


6 


Sanze 


. 3 


18 


8* 


TSURU-GA-OKA. 


4 


23 


iii 


Total 


.44 


2 107J 



The first part of the journey as 

far as Shibata may be done by rail. 

• There is a good jinrikisha road 

the whole way. The best stopping- 



Route 73. — llatsushima. 



489 



places are Shibata, Murakami, and 
Sanze. The lamps which will be 
noticed in the rice-fields are lit at 
night to destroy insects. 

The way is mostly level at first, 
leading through fields and hamlets. 

Murakami {Inn, Maru-yashi) is 
a fair-sized town. After crossing 
the Jliomote-gawa near its mouth, 

[This river is noted for its beauty. 
A road, sometimes degenerating 
into a mere mountain track, 
leads along it via Iwa-kuzure, 
and over the Om ica and Toyaba- 
toge, to the hamlet of Miomote, 
approximately 10 ri, whence 
5J ri of very rough walking to 
Funato, from which latter vill. 
jinrikishas are practicable for 
the final 15^- ri into Yonezawa 
(p. 493). Asahi-dake (7,030 ft.) 
a fine granite mountain, rises 
a little to the N.E.] 

we see to the r. the Echigo Fuji, a 
double- crested mountain, together 
with others most varied in size and 
contour. Clusters of pine and 
cryptomeria, and the never-ending 
green of a rich cultivation along the 
lower level and of the grassy and 
leafy heights, contribute to the 
charm of the landscape. 

On leaving Murakami, the first 
few miles are level or undulating, 
after which comes a succession of 
long ascents and descents through 
fine wooded hills. The principal 
sight on the way is Urushi-jinja, 
a striking mass of grey rock, which 
towers romantically above a purling 
brook half-shrouded in live oaks and 
creepers. 

Legend avers that the hero Hachinian 
Tar 6 here built a roof of arrows as 
a shelter from the weather, when he had 
defeated his foes in this mountain fast- 
ness. Hence the name (or rather per- 
haps the name may have given rise to the 
story) of YabuM Daimyojin, lit. the " God 
of the Arrow-roofing," under which this 
warrior is here worshipped. 

After Nakamura, there is a long 
descent with glimpses of the sea 
ahead ; then more hills. The coast 



is finally reached at Okawa, and 
later on, several tunnels are en- 
countered. 

[Crossing the Atsumi-gaw r a, a 
road leads up the river for 
about 2 m. to Yu-Atsumi, locally 
known as Onsen, that is " the 
hot spring." It possesses hot 
sulphur baths and good ac- 
commodation.] 

At Sanze (Inn, AMta-ya), wiience 
basha are available to Tsuru-ga-oka, 
the road turns inland, and after 
some small hills, drops down into a 
rice plain, which it traverses until 
Tsuru-ga-oka is reached (see Kte. 
75). 



ROUTE 73. 



Matsushima. 



1. MATSUSHIMA. 2. KINEWA-ZAN. 



1 . — Matsushima . 

By train from Sendai on the 
Northern Eailway to Shiogama in J 
hr. by branch line. 

The archipelago of pine-clad islets 
collectively bearing the name of Matsu- 
shima has been famed for its beauty ever 
since Northern Japan was conquered 
from the Aino aborigines in the 8th cen- 
tury, and ranks as one of the San-kei, or 
"Three Great Sights" of the empire, the 
other two being Miyajima and Ama-no- 
Hashidate. A lengthened form of the 
name, Shiogama-no-Matsushima," i. e., 
" the Pine Islands of Shiogama," is some- 
times made use of, Shiogama being the 
town on the coast where the curious 
landscape begins. 

The best way to see the islands is 
to row or sail across Shiogama to 
the hamlet which has borrowed the 
name of Matsushima (under 2 hrs. 
with a fair breeze). Persons press- 
ed for time may return the same 



490 



lloute 73. — Matsushima. 



day from Matsushima station (1 ri 
by jinrilrisha from the Matsushima 
Hotel) to Sendai, f hr. by train. 

Shiogama (Inns, Ota-ya, Ebi- 
ya, near station and pier). The 
temple here, which once belonged 
to the Shingon sect of Buddhists, has 
been transferred to the worship 
of the Shintd god Shiogama Dai- 
myojin, the reputed discoverer of the 
manufacture of salt by evaporation 
from sea-water, the word Shio-ga- 
ma meaning Salt-Cauldron. In the 
temple court will be noticed a 
sun-dial inscribed with Roman 
figures. 

It bears date 1783, and was presented 
by Bin Shihei, a writer noted for his 
zealous advocacy of the defence of the 
country against foreign aggression, which 
he prophetically foresaw. 

There is likewise a handsome, 
though weather-beaten, iron lan- 
tern, presented in A.D. 1187. But 
in the temple's present state, the 
magnificent cryptomerias and other 
trees, in the midst of whose deep 
shade it stands, form the chief 
attraction of the place. — Shiogama 
is noted for its ink-stones. 

On the sea-shore, 2 ri S. of Shio- 
gama, is situated the watering-place 
of Shobuta (Inn, Daido-kwan), with 
fine view. 

About 1| ri from Shiogama by jinriki- 
sha, stands a stone monument called 
Tsubo-no-Ishi to commemorate the for- 
mer presence of a castle named Taga Jo, 
built in A.D. 724. At that time the Ainos 
still occupied the country to the north; 
and an inscription states that the frontier 
lay only 120 ri (probably of 6 cho each, 
that is 49 miles) distant. Old pottery is 
dug up in the vicinity. 

From Shiogama to the hamlet of 
Matsushima (Inns, *Matsu- 
shima Hotel, Togo Hotel, Europ. 
dishes), is a delightful sail amidst 
the promontories, bays, and islets, 
which stretch along the coast for 
18 ri as far as Kinkwa-zan, the 
most celebrated of the group. 
Small steamers ply several times a 
day between Shiogama and Matsu- 



shima, the passage occupying about 
lhr. 

There are said to be 88 islands between 
Shiogama and Matsushima, and 808 in all 
between Shiogama and Kinkwa-zan, of 
which very few are inhabited. But eight 
and its compounds are favourite round 
numbers with the Japanese, and more- 
over the smallest rocks are included in 
the enumeration. The average height of 
the islands is from 60 ft. to 80 ft., the 
highest is 300 ft. All are formed of white 
sandstone, into which the sea makes 
rapid inroads, hollowing out tunnels and 
archways in numerous places. Doubtless 
many of the smaller isles disappear by 
this process of erosion, while their num- 
ber is maintained by the gradual breaking 
up of small promontories. 

Each island, down to the least, 
has received a separate name, many 
of them fantastic, as "Buddha's 
Entry into Nirvana," " Question and 
Answer Island," "the Twelve Im- 
perial Consorts," and so on ; and no 
less fantastic than the names are 
the shapes of the islands them- 
selves. In almost every available 
nook stands one of those thousand 
pine-trees that have given name and 
fame to the locality. The quaintest 
and most "Japanesey" spot of all 
is the islet of Oshima, which is 
connected with the shore by tiny 
bridges. Uma-hashi is another 
always visited. At the hamlet of 
Matsushima, the temple of Zuiganji, 
containing the ancestral tablets of 
the Date family, well repays a 
visit. On the way thither, some 
large excavation (Yezo-ana) in 
the sandstone rock are passed. 
Their precise origin is unknown, 
but it would seem most reasonable 
to regard them as old quarries. In 
the outer court of the temple, 
in front of a small cave called 
Hoshin ga Iwaya, stand two large 
slate-stones with figures of Kwan- 
non cut into the face. Notice also 
the bronze praying-wheel. There 
is a well-carved wooden figure of 
Date Masamune (see p. 71), in a 
shrine behind the high altar. The 
various apartments of the temple 
are handsomely decorated ; and 
when the gold foil so lavishly 



Ririkwa-zan. 



491 



strewn about was fresh, the effect 
must have been very fine. — Speci- 
mens of non-hollow bamboo are 
brought for sale to the Till, of 
Matsushima, but being rare, are 
somewhat expensive. They are 
used for making seals. 

A fine panorama of the archipel- 
ago may be obtained from the top 
of Shin-Tomiyama, 10 min. walk 
from the hotel. Those with time 
on hand are, howeTer, recommended 
to take this on the way back from 
Tomiyama, a higher hill 2 ri distant, 
practicable by jinrikisha, except 
the last 3 chb leading up to the 
temple of Taikoji, which stands 
near the top of the ascent and 
is said to haTe been founded by 
the celebrated Tamura Maro (see p. 
85). From this spot the eye wanders 
OTer a maze of islets and promon- 
tories, land and sea being mixed in 
inextricable but loTely confusion. 
In the direction of Shiogama, the 
double peak of Shiraishi-no-take 
may be descried in the blue dis- 
tance, while to the r. rises the range 
diTiding the proTince of Eikuzen 
from those of Uzen and Ugo. ETen 
Fuji is said to be Tisible in excep- 
tionally clear autumn weather. The 
highest hill to the 1. is on the island 
of Funairi-shima. Still another 
panorama of the islands can be 
gained from Otaka-mori, which 
is best taken on the way going 
or coming from Shiogama, the 
climb up from the shore being only 
3 chb. 

Some curious methods of fishing 
are employed in the bay. One is 
a sort of labyrinth of finely split 
bamboos, which the fish enter but 
cannot escape from. Another 
deTice is the suspension of bundles 
of seaweed by ropes tied to bam- 
boo sticks, which eels and other 
fish seek shelter in and are thus 
easily caught. 

2 . KlXK W A-Z AN . 

If it is desired to include the 
sacred island of Kinkwa-zan in 



the trip, the night must be spent at 
Shiogama, as the daily steamers call 
there early in the morning and do 
not touch at Matsushima. The 
passage takes 5 to 6 hrs. to Aikaica, 
a hamlet situated on a small bay to 
the W. of the channel separating 
Kinkwa-zan from the mainland. 
From Aikawa to the Yamadori 
ferry is a walk of a little more than 
1 m. OTer a hill, the top of which 
affords an entrancing Tiew of 
Kinkwa-zan and the entire Matsu- 
shima archipelago. A short descent 
leads thence to the ferry where 
boats ply across the strait to Kin- 
kwa-zan, 2 miles distant. 

The tame deer, with which the 
island abounds, form striking 
objects as they stand on projecting 
ledges of rock, or graze quietly by 
the side of the road that leacls up 
through a wood consisting of pine, 
beech, and chestnut. There is no 
inn ; but accommodation is proTid- 
ed at the official residences con- 
nected with the temple. Japanese 
fare is proTided, and a guide fur- 
nished to conduct the Tisitor round 
the island. 

Kinkwa-zan is one of the most renown- 
ed spots in the north, and has been, in 
spite of its comparative inaccessibility, 
the resort of pilgrims from all parts of 
Japan for centuries past. Such was its 
sanctity in old days, and such the in- 
ferior position assigned to the female sex 
that no members of the latter were 
allowed to gaze on the island, much less 
set foot on its soil. Some old customs 
still linger. For instance, the fishermen 
offer to the temple tithes of every catch of 
fish. — A quaint superstition prevails 
regarding the deer on Kinkwa-zan. Sick 
deer are said to be seen roaming about, 
their mouths tied up with shimenawa (the 
straw rope suspended before Shinto 
shrines), and refusing all food until they 
recover, when the bandage drops off. 
Monkeys are also said to live here, 
and to come down to the shore at neap- 
tides to get edible seaweed, which they 
bind round their bodies and carry off to 
the hills. 

The origin of the name Kinkwa-zan 
("golden-flower mountain") is obscure. 
Tradition asserts that gold was found on 
the island, then known as Michinoku- 
yama; and the following lines in the 
Man-yo-shu, an anthology of the 8th 



m 



Jioute 74 — From Fuhushima to Aomori. 



century, are supposed to refer to the 
discovery : 

Sumerogi no 

Miyo sakaen to 
Azuma naru 
Michinoku-yama ni 
Kogane hana saku 

which means, " To add lustre to the 
sovereign's august reign, golden flowers 
bloom in the mountains of Michinoku in 
the East." It is more probable, however, 
that it derived its name from the glitter 
of the quantity of mica found in the soil. 
Kinkwa-zan sadly exemplifies the rapid 
disappearance of Japanese religious 
architecture and art. Until 1873 the 
shrine was Buddhist, and possessed splen- 
did edifices. These, having been turned 
over to the official Shinto cult after the 
disestablishment of Buddhism, were 
partially pulled down, and the rest strip- 
ped of their ornaments. Two fires, the 
last of which occurred in 1897, completed 
the work of destruction. The Shinto 
buildings set up since then are insigni- 
ficant, The chief festivals take place on 
the 10th May and 25th September. 

The walk to the summit of Kin- 
kwa-zan, 1,480 ft., takes about J hr. 
from the temple, being but some 16 
cho. The path leads behind the 
main buildings, mostly through 
broken boulders and over the 
interlaced roots of beech-trees. The 
objects pointed out on the way are 
detached pieces of rock with 
fanciful designations. On one of 
these Kobo Daishi is said to have sat 
in meditation. The glorious view 
from the summit repays the travel- 
ler for any difficulty he may have 
had in reaching Kinkwa-zan. 
Nothing obstructs the vista of the 
broad and blue Pacific ; for the 
mountain, although densely wooded 
on all sides, slopes gradually down 
to the sea. On the Y^. side, the 
whole Matsushima archipelago is 
embraced, — even the outermost 
isles to the N., fringed with a thou- 
sand pines and encircled by white 
breakers. Komagata-yama, a higher 
peak to the N. W. on the mainland, 
shuts out the prospect in that 
direction only. 

The small shrine on the top of 
Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Wata- 
tsumi-no-Mikoto, the Shinto God of 
the Sea. A path from the summit 



descends to the lighthouse and wire- 
less station joining the Pilgrims' 
Circuit, another path round the 
island to which a whole day should, 
if possible, be devoted, as it affords 
glimpses of wild coast scenery un- 
surpassed on the N.E. coast. This 
circuit is estimated at from 5 to 
6 ri. 

A party wishing to do Kinkwa- 
zan in greater comfort may hire a 
small steamer by previous applica- 
tion at Shiogama. The island is 
thus reached direct without calling 
at Aikawa, and the return may be 
made the same day. 

The stretch of coast between 
Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan in- 
cludes the three ports, of Nobiru, 
Ishi-no-maki, and Ogi-no-hama, the 
two former being connected with 
Matsushima bay by a canal, 10 m. 
long. Ishi-no-Hiaki, noted for 
its slatequarries and salmon fisher- 
ies, stands at the mouth of the river 
Kitakami, the natural outlet for the 
trade of the district of Nambu to the 
north. For the trip down this river, 
see p. 481. A line of railway con- 
nects Ishi-no-maki with Kogota (see 
p. 481). 



BOUTE 74. 



Feom Fukushima to Yamagata, 
Akita, and Aomoei. 

[Lake Towada.] 



Distance 




from 


Names of Stations 


Fukushima 




Miles 


FUKUSHIMA 


*i 


Niwasaka 


13J 


Itaya 


16 


Toge 


19 


Osawa 


23 


Sekine 



Yonezaiva. 



493 



26 


YONEZAWA 


32} 


Nuka-no-me 


36 


Akayii 


41} 


Nakagawa 


48 


Kami-noyama 


55} 


YAMAGATA 


60 


Urushi-yama 


63} 


Tendo 


67} 


Jimmaclii 


71f 


Tateoka 


80 


Oishida 


88} 


Funagata 


93i 


SHINJO 


103 


Aramachi 


109 


Kamabuchi 


ue} 


Nozoki 


122 


Innai 


124} 


Yokobori 


132 


Yuzawa 


136} 


Jiimonji 


143 


YOKOTE 


150} 


Tizume 


154^ 


Omagari 


158} 


Jinguji 


163 


Kariwano 


170 


Sakai 


178^ 


Wada 


187 


AKITA 


191} 


Tsuchisaki 


195 


Oiwake 


199} 


Okubo 


204f 


Gojo-no-me 


211} 


Kado 


215} 


Moritake 


222 


HATAOBI 


232} 


Futatsui 


240} 


Takanosu 


245f 


Hayakuchi 


251} 


ODATE 


255} 


Shirasawa 


260 


Jimba 


266} 


Ikari-ga-seki 


271| 


Owani 


279 


HIROSAKI 


283 


Kawabe 


288} 


Namioka 


291} 


Daishaka 


298J 


Shinjo 


302} 


AOMOEI 



This, the most direct route to 
the important towns on the N.TV. 
Coast, also affords an alternative 
means of reaching Aomori; but 



owing to extensive rice-plains and 
much moorland, it cannot compare 
in scenic interest with the Northern 
Railway (Rte. 69) ; nor are any of 
the trains provided with dining 
cars. The great central range of 
mountains, which forms the back- 
bone of the main island, divides 
the two routes. 

Leaving Fukushima, the railway 
bends away to the N.W. to cross 
the mountains by the Itaya-toge, 
2,500 ft. above the sea. There is 
a delightful panoramic view of the 
plain, backed by the Iwaki hills, as 
the line begins to ascend, and be- 
fore entering the series of tunnels 
— fourteen in number on this side 
of Itaya — on the boundary separat- 
ing the provinces of Iwashiro and 
Uzen. For some miles the perma- 
nent way has been cut out of the 
sheer cliff, which rises perpendicu- 
larly on either side of the gorge to 
a considerable height, before com- 
mencing to slope upwards to the 
mountain tops. Two tunnels — the 
second a little over 1 m. in length 
— pierce the summit of the pass to 
Toge ; on the downward gradient 
to Sekine, there are three more. 
Sheds protect the line from the 
snow, which lies hereabouts until 
late in June. The bare and some- 
what wild aspect of the Fukushima 
side gives place to comparative 
luxuriance of vegetation and culti- 
vation on the other. 

Yonezawa (Inns, T6y5-kwan, 
Akane-ya) lies 17 cho from its 
station. Formerly the castle-town 
of the great Uesugi family, it stands 
near the S.E. extremity of a rich 
and fertile plain, surrounded by 
lofty mountains and watered by 
the Matsukawa and several tributa- 
ry streams that form the upper 
waters of the Mogami-gawa. The 
castle has been razed to the ground ; 
but the temple dedicated to Uesugi 
Kenshin (see p. 85) still remains. 

Cultivated land dotted with mul- 
berry plantations extends to the 
N.E, extremity of the plain, the line 



494 



Route 74. — From Fukushima to Aomori. 



afterwards entering some low grav- 
elly hills. 

Akayu (Inns, Minato-ya, Akayu 
Hotel, with private baths) is noted 
for its hot sulphur springs. 
The hill immediately behind the 
town, crowned by a temple of 
Hachiman, commands an extensive 
view. 

Kami-iio-yama (Inns, Yama- 
shiro-ya, and many others) is 
pleasantly situated. It also boasts 
hot mineral baths, said to be 
efficacious in rheumatism. On 
leaving Kami-no-yama, we enter 
the plain in which stands 

Yamagata (Inns, Goto-ya,Kami- 
ya). This place, capital of the 
prefecture of the same name, is 
well-situated, and possesses silk 
filatures, broad clean streets, and 
fine shops. Excellent plum jelly 
(noshi-ume), made in thin layers, is 
produced here. — One ri E. of the 
town, the hill of Chitose-yama affords 
a fine panorama of the surrounding 
country and distant mountains. 

An excursion recommended is to 
Yama-dera, 2J ri N.E. of Yamagata 
by a good jinrikisha road, where 
stands a group of ancient Buddhist 
shrines, perched on bare rocky 
pinnacles, and surrounded by pine- 
trees and cryptomerias. The sand- 
stone rocks are curiously honey- 
combed. 

The present buildings date from A. D. 
1470 ; but this remote site was chosen by 
the saint Jikaku Daishi as far back as 861. 
An autograph and other relics of him are 
shown. His grave lies on a hill above, 
and he himself is still supposed to tenant 
the spot ; for it is asserted that his voice 
issues at times from an adjacent cave. 

North of Yamagata fine snow- 
capped ranges come in sight as the 
plain widens, and is richly cul- 
tivated with rice, cotton, tobacco, 
and mint. Of this last, two crops 
are produced, — one in June and one 
in October. The most striking 
distant object in the landscape 
is the summit of Gwassan (for 
ascent of this mountain, see Ete. 75) 
which rises behind picturesque 



lesser ranges, and whose slopes 
continue, even during the hottest 
period of the year, to be streaked 
with snow. To the r. of Gwassan, 
sweeping up from a comparatively 
level country, rises the graceful 
cone of Chokai-zan (see Ete. 75), 
which remains almost constantly 
in view the whole way to Akita. 
Beyond 

Tend.6 (Inn, Tsuru-ya), the val- 
ley narrows, and is less densely 
populated. 

Tateoka (Inn, Kasawara) pre- 
sents a flourishing appearance. 
The country becomes more undu- 
lating before reaching 

Oishida (Inn, Bannen-ya). From 
here boats descend the Mogami- 
gawa, taking from 8 to 10 hrs. to 
make the journey to Kiyokavia 
(Ete. 75). Snow-sheds protect the 
line from snowdrifts. After Oishida 
comes a stretch of moorland, bright 
with dwarf azaleas in June; then 
some tunnelling among the low 
hills on this side of the poor vill. of 

Funagata (Inn, Ito). The road 
leading from it to Tsuru-ga-oka and 
Sakata is described in the next 
route. 

Shin jo (Inn, Yaginuma), a quiet 
town, has a considerable trade in 
rice, silk, and hemp. 

The style of buildings in this district, 
and in those further to the N., differs 
much from that met with in central and 
southern Japan. Nearly all the houses 
are great oblong barns turned endwise to 
the road, and are built with heavy beams 
and walls of lath and brown mud mixed 
with chopped straw. Rain-doors, with a 
few paper windows at the top, replace the 
ordinary sliding screens; and as there 
are no ceilings to the rooms, the interior 
presents an uninviting appearance. 

From Shinjo, the line branches 
away to the W. to avoid the diffi- 
cult, but picturesquely wild, country 
through which the old highway 
runs. A dull stretch of several 
miles ensues, until we reach Kama- 
buchi, where the scenery along the 
course of an affluent of the Mogami- 
gawa becomes delightful. Large 
trees, — cryptomeria, chestnut, and 






From Shinjo to Noshiro. 



495 



others, — to many of which clings the 
beautiful wild wistaria, border the 
river banks, while the surrounding 
hills still retain a dense forest. At 
Xozoki, we rejoin the ancient road, 
and a long tunnel pierces the hills 
that form the boundary between 
the provinces of Uzen and Ugo. 

Innai (Inn, Gensei-kwan) is 
noted for its silver mines, first 
opened in the year 1599, which 
were once the most productive in 
Japan. 

Yokobori. In this remote £>art 
of the country was born Ono-no- 
Komachi, Japan's greatest poetess 
(see p. 78). 

Yusawa ( Inn, *Yanazawa) is a 
noted silk mart. 

Yokote (Inn, *Hira-gen, with 
branch at station) lies on the E. 
side of a wide plain. It has a large 
trade in cottons. From Yokote 
there is a beautiful view of Chokai- 
zan which appears as a perfect cone. 

[A road, practicable for jinrild- 
shas, leads hence over the 
mountains to Kurosawa-jiri, on 
the Northern Eailway (see p, 
482). The distance can be 
done in one day. If a halt 
be found necessary, Kawajiri 
would be the best place.] 

Omagari (Inn, Watanabe). The 
swiftly flowing Omono-gawa is 
crossed before Jinguji, and soon 
the line leaves the plain to strike 
in amongst sandy scrub-covered 
hills, whence little arrests the eye 
before reaching 

Akita (Inns, *Kobayashi Kanzd ; 
Ishibashi Hotel, Europ. dishes) is 
the capital of the prefecture of 
the same name, and a garrison 
town. Considerable trade is car- 
ried on here, and rice is exported 
in large quantities to the nor- 
thern parts of the main island 
and to Hakodate. A striking view 
of the plain with the river Omono- 
gawa winding through it, and of 
Taihei-zan and other mountains to 
the N.E. and Chokai-zan to the S., 



is obtained from a hill behind the 
town, where the Daimyo's castle 
formerly stood. The site has been 
converted into a Public Park of 
exceptional picturesqueness, which 
is crowned by a Shinto temple 
called Shokonsha. Large quantities 
of fuki (Petasites japonicus) are 
pickled in sugar and used for 
sweetmeats. 

Besides the railway, there is a 
tramway from AMta to its thriving 
sea-port of 

Tsucliizaki, 1 ri 26 cho distant. 
The line strikes north towards the 
shore of a large lagoon, called 
Hachiro-gata, whose greatest length 
from N. to S. is 17 miles, its breadth 
about 7J m. The entrance on the 
S.W., by which it communicates 
with the sea, is only some 150 yds. 
wide. 

Okubo. 

[Five ri by basha from this 
station, on the W. of the bay 
formed by the headland on the 
opposite side of the lagoon, lies 
Funakawa (Inn, Moroi), the 
winter port, as Tsuchizaki is too 
much exposed. Half way, at 
Funakoshi, the road crosses the 
exit of the lagoon by a bridge 
564 yards long. Along the 
coast of the headland stretches 
a group of remarkable rocks 
called Oga-shima, rising to 60 
ft. in height, and in one place 
forming a natural bridge in the 
sea.] 

After leaving the lagoon at Kado, 
we pass through country partially 
cultivated, wooded, and dotted with 
pine-clad hillocks, to Hataori, 2 J m. 
from, and connected by a branch 
line, with the town of 

Noshiro (Inns, Sekine, Murai, 
branches at station). This big 
straggling place stands at the 
mouth of the river of the same 
name. Some silver work is done 
here, chiefly in tobacco pipes, orna- 
ments for the hair, and rings. A 
good deal of copper, too, comes 
down from the mountains to be 



496 



Route 74. — From Fukushima to Aomori. 



smelted. From Noshiro, the line 
ascends the valley of the Noshiro- 
gawa through some tunnels and 
snow-sheds to Takanosu, {Inn, Ta- 
jima-ya), where people alight for 
the Ani copper mine, 9 ri distant. 
At the fair-sized town of 

6 date (Inn, Hanaoka), quantities 
of coarse lacquered ware are manu- 
factured. Numbers of horses are 
bred in this neighbourhood. The 
jumble of low_ bare hills of every 
shape beyond Odate forms a curious 
feature in the landscape. From 
Shirasawa station a telpherage 
system conveys supplies to the 
Kosalca Silver and Copper mines. 
The route continues through a hilly 
region, with some tunnelling. 

[An interesting excursion may be 
made from Odate to beautiful 
Lake Towada, lying amongst 
the mountains, 1,500 ft. above 
sea-level. A railway belonging 
to the mines, but open to the 
public, connects Odate with 
Kosalca (Kosaka Hotel), 1 hr. 20 
min. The_ road thence via 
Kemanai, Oyu (Inn, Kame-ya), 
and Shirasawa (14 miles) is 
practicable for jinrikisha with 
3 men, but horses or Jcago are 
to be preferred, especially as 
they can be used for the final 
stage of 6 J miles from Shira- 
sawa to Hakka (no accommo- 
dation) on the S. shore of the 
lake. There is an inn at Yasu- 
miya, on the S.E. side 1 ri by 
motor or sailing boat. The 
scenery is magnificent, densely 
wooded hills coming down to 
the water's edge. At the small 
shrine of Towada Jinja sandals 
are offered up, and the pilgrims 
fling coppers into the water; 
these are picked up every year 
by a diver, who divides his gain 
with the priest. The lake has 
been stocked with masu, and 
affords good fishing. Half a ri 
down the river which drains it 
on the E. side, are some pretty 
waterfalls.] 



Ikari-ga-seki (Inn, Shibata-ya) 
is often called Seki for short. The 
line gradually descends to 

Owani (Inn, Yama-ni), noted for 
hot springs. 

Hirosaki (Inns, Saikichi, Sasaki) 
was formerly the castle-town of a 
Daimyo, whose territory included 
the district of Tsugaru, — a part of 
the present province of Kikuoku. 
It is now the headquarters of the 
Eighth Army Division. Euins of 
the castle, built in 1611, still re- 
main. The grounds have been 
turned into a public park and there 
is a museum containing some anti- 
quities. Excellent apples grow in 
this neighbourhood. Four ri to the 
E. lie the hot springs of Itadome 
among pretty scenery. The rail- 
way may be rejoined at Kawabe, 
the next station, J ri nearer, whence 
a branch line, 4 m., runs to the mine 
of Koroishi. 

[On the coast, some 19 ri from 
Hirosaki, of which the first 10 
ri as far as Aji-ga-sawa by jin- 
rikisha, lies Fuka-ura, a place 
of some importance owing to 
its manganese mines. The 
road follows southwards along 
the coast to Noshiro (18 ri), 
practicable for jinrikishas.] 

To the W. of Hirosald rises 
Iwaki-san, or the Tsugaru Fuji, 
so called on account of its similari- 
ty in shape to the famous mountain 
of that name. Its solitary grandeur 
equals that of the loftier cone. 

[The ascent is made either from 
Hyaku-sawa, about 3 ri from 
Hirosaki, at the south foot of the 
mountain, where stands a tem- 
ple whose priest will furnish 
guides for the expedition, or 
from the hot sulphur spa of 
Dakwa, 2 ri higher up. The 
season at which pilgrims make 
the ascent is brief ; but travel- 
lers wall find no difficulty in 
obtaining permission at any 
time, by making a small 
present. At a height of 4,100 



Route 75. — From Funagata to N. W. Coast & Akita. 497 



ft. lies an oval crater, about 100 
yds. wide, containing a small 
pond. To reach the highest 
peak of all, 4,650 ft. high, en- 
tails two steep clambers over 
boulders and loose gravel. 
Scattered over the summit lie 
numerous huge andesite boul- 
ders. The top is extremely 
steep, owing to the washing 
away of ejectamenta, which has 
left only the solid rock. Not- 
withstanding the degradation 
that has taken place upon the 
upper part of this mountain, its 
general form and the existence 
of beds of pumice indicate that 
it has been in a state of erup- 
tion during recent geological 
periods. The ascent and 
descent can be easily accom- 
plished in 5 J hours.] 

From Hirosaki the line leads 
across a rice plain, then through a 
cutting in the Tsugaru-zaka hills, 
and down a narrow valley to the 
coast at 

Aomori (see p. 485). 



ROUTE 75. 



From Funagata to Sakata, and up 
the N.W. Coast to Aejta. 

ASCENT OF HAGURO-SAN, GWASSAN, 
CHOKAI-ZAN, AND IWAKI-SAN. 

Itinerary. 

FUNAGATA to:— Ri Gho M. 

Moto-Aikai 2 21 6} 

Furukuchi 2 8 5J 

Kiyokawa 3 12 8J- 

Karigawa 1 12 3| 

Fujishima 1 34 4f 



TSURU-GA-OKA. 2 8 5J 

Yokoyama 1 23 4 

Niibori 3 11 8 

SAKATA 1 33 4| 

Fujisaki 2 19 6£ 

Fuku-ura 2 23 6} 

Shiokoshi 4 21 1H 

Hirazawa 3 20 8| 

HONJO 4 — 9f 

Matsu-ga-saki 3 15 S\ 

Hanegawa 3 12 8} 

Araya 2 12 5f 

AKITA 1 25 4£ 

Total 48 21 118J 

This route is recommended only 
to those whose chief object is moun- 
tain-climbing. The railway is left 
at Funagata (see p. 494). The road 
thence leads due W. over a culti- 
vated upland, and then down a 
narrow valley to Moto-Aikai {Inn, 
Koyary5-kwan), a vill. on the 
Mogami-gawa, which here sweeps 
past some chalk cliffs curiously hol- 
lowed out by water. An ingenious 
device for swinging the ferry-boat 
from one side of the river to the 
other by the force of the current 
conveys the traveller to the 1. bank. 
After Furukuchi the scenery be- 
comes highly picturesque. The 
river, though flowing between lofty 
hills, partly covered with splendid 
yews and cryptomerias, is quite 
placid, and is studded with primi- 
tive boats having brown mats for 
sails. The vill. of 

Kiyokawa (Inn, Watanabe) lies 
at the lower end of the gorge, where 
the river and the road now separate, 
the former flowing r. to Sakata, the 
latter going 1. through pleasant 
cultivated country and prosperous 
villages. The ascent of Haguro-san 
is frequently made from Karigawa 
(Inn, Seino-mohei), whence the 
distance is estimated at 3 ri by 
jinrikisha to a place called Togi, and 
20 cho more on foot. 

Tsuru-ga-oka, or Shonai (Inn, 
*Ise-ya), was formerly the castle- 
town of a Daimyd called Sakai 
Saemon-no-j5. There are several 



498 Eoute 75. — From Funagala to N. W. Coast & Akita. 



remarkable waterfalls in the neigh- 
bouring mountains. Some 2 ri to 
the S.W., by a jinrikisha road, lies 
the little spa of Tagawa-yu (good 



Haguro-san and Gwassan 
may be conveniently climbed from 
Tsuru-ga-oka. Gwassan, the high- 
er of the two, is only 6,200 ft. above 
the level of the sea ; and it is there- 
fore not so much on account of 
height as of reputation for sanctity 
that they yearly attract throngs of 
pilgrims. 

The name of San-zan, or " the three 
moun tains," is applied by pilgrims to 
Haguro-san, Gwassan, and a third named 
Yudono-san, which last is not a separate 
mountain, but merely a hollow on the 
shoulder of one whose proper name is 
Umba-ga-take. 

It is necessary, in order to avoid 
the discomfort of spending two 
nights on the mountains, to start 
at a very early hour. Haguro-san is 
visited first, 4 ri through the forest, 
2 miles of which up stone steps 
leading to a fine shrine. Thence 
into a small wooded valley, and out 
on to a wide plateau at the foot of 
the steep ascent of Gwassan, whose 
summit is crowned by a small 
shrine, and has a lake in what was 
perhaps formerly a crater. The 
total distance from Haguro-san to 
the summit of Gwassan is 9 ri ; but 
accommodation for the night can 
be obtained at any of the three 
hamlets situated on its slope. The 
traveller is advised to choose the 
highest of the three, and next day 
to return to Tsuru-ga-oka via Ta- 
muki and Oami. 

[Instead of returning to Tsuru- 
ga-oka, it is also possible to 
reach Yamagata by descending 
from the top of Gwassan to 
the hamlet of Iwane-zawa, a 
walk of 6 ri, where, at a dis- 
tance of 1^ ri, one meets the 
road from Tsuru-ga-oka to 
Yamagata via the Roku-ju-ri- 
goe, of which the following is 
the itinerary ; — 



TSUBU-GA-OKA to :— 

Ri Chb M. 

Higashi Iwamoto 3 14 8% 

Tamugi-mata ... 3 5 7f 

Shizu,. 4 6 10J 

Hondoji 2 34 7J- 

Kaishu 2 33 7 

Shiraiwa 2 4 5} 

Sagae 1 23 4 

Nagasaki 1 10 3 

YAMAGATA ... 3 7 7| 

Total ...24 27 60J 

Jinrikishas are practicable 
only for a few ri at either end 
of this road.] 

Leaving Tsuru-ga-oka, the road 
runs along the 1. bank of the Aka- 
gawa, which is crossed at Yokoyama. 
Signs of prosperity will be noticed 
everywhere in the cleanly villages, 
exceptionally neat farmsteads, 
schoolhouses, good roads, etc. The 
Mogami-gawa is crossed close to 
its mouth before reaching 

Sakata (Inns, Miura-ya, Mura- 
kami). This port is the natural 
outlet for the trade of the districts 
of Tsuru-ga-oka and Yamagata, 
which are noted for their rice pro- 
duction. The town lies under the 
shelter of a pine-clad hill, crowned 
by a Buddhist temple and overlook- 
ing the Sea of Japan. Small steam- 
ers run up and down the coast daily ; 
but the bar at the mouth of the 
river prevents anything like punct- 
uality. Rasha traverse the distance 
between Sakata and Honjo and from 
Honjd to Akita, daily. 

From Fuku-ura (fair accommoda- 
tion), the ascent of Ch.6kai-zan 
(7,200 ft.) may best be made ; but 
one should put up at the cluster of 
inns by the sea-side, called Fuku-ura 
Onsen, 10 chb beyond the vill. A 
trip to this magnificent mountain is 
recommended. Sunrise is the best 
time for the view, for which reason 
the traveller should arrange so as 
to spend the night on the top. It 
is, however, possible to make the 
ascent and to descend again to 



Route IQ.—The North-East Coast 



499 



Fuku-ura in one long day. The 
distance to the summit, which is 
considered to be 9 ri, is divided into 
three equal stages, of which the 
first may be performed on horse- 
back. The second leads up to 
the shed at Kawara-ishi, 4,800 ft. 
above the sea, where water and 
poor Japanese fare can be obtained, 
and where, even in summer, patches 
of snow remain. The third stage 
passes by the rim of an ancient 
crater, and over snow and volcanic 
scoriae to the present peak. Near 
the top are some sheds for pilgrims, 
and a small temple little better 
than a hut. The actual summit 
rises 800 ft. above this point, and 
is reached by clambering over a 
wilderness of broken rocks and 
stones, the effect doubtless of some 
long-forgotten eruption. 

The first recorded outburst took place 
in A.D. 861, and the last in 1861. Traces 
of its action may still be seen in the 
solfatara on the W. side of the mountain : 
but the upheaval was an insignificant 
one, and the volcanic force of Chokai-zan 
is evidently becoming extinct. The little 
island of Tdbi-shima, a few miles off the 
coast, is believed to have been ejected 
from Chokai. 

From the summit, the eye wan- 
ders over the entire range of moun- 
tains dividing Ugo from Rikuchu, 
and over those of Nambu beyond. 
Looking W. is the sea, with to 
the r. the long headland of Ojika. 
Opposite lies Hishima, and to the 
1. Aoshima and Sado. To the S. is 
the plain of the lower Mogami- 
gawa, bounded by the mountains 
of Uzen and Echigo, with the long 
slope of Gwassan in the centre. 
Most curious of all, as the first rays 
of light break through the dark- 
ness, is the shadow of Chokai-zan 
itself, projected on to the sea. 

The road now lies along the 
coast at the foot of Chokai-zan and 
Inamura-dake, as far as Shiokoshi, 
the latter part, where the spurs of 
the mountain run down to the sea, 
being a succession of ups and 
downs. From Shiokoshi to Hiram- 



wa, the coast is indented by tiny 
bays, whose entrances are guarded 
by rocky cliffs, and where fishing 
hamlets line the shore. Pretty 
pine- woods mark the approach to 

Honjo (Inn, *Ozono), a prosper- 
ous little town on the banks of the 
Koyoshi-gawa. Its port is called 
Furuyuki. 

From Honjo onwards, as far as 
Akita, the coast extends in one long 
unbroken dreary line of sandy 
shore, the high land of the pro- 
montory of Ojika standing out to 
the 1. ahead. The manufacture of 
salt from sea-water by a rough 
process is carried on here to a con- 
siderable extent ; and in the month 
of May large quantities of hatahata, 
a fish resembling the sardine, are 
caught with the seine. An inferior 
kind of lamp-oil is extracted from 
this fish, and the refuse employed 
as manure. 

Akita (see p. 495). 



KOUTE 76. 



The Nokth-East Coast. 

1. from morioea to miyako. 2. 
along the coast to eamaishi, 
and inland to hanamaki. 

The North-East Coast can be 
approached from several points on 
the Northern Railway. Small steam- 
ers also ply at irregular intervals 
along the coast, which deserves to 
be better known, especially the 
stretch between Yamada and Ozuchi 
or Kamaishi in the province of 
Rikuchu. The road leads over the 
necks of hilly peninsulas, disclosing 
marvellous views of the fiord-like 
coast and of the mountain ridges 
that extend down to it. The har- 
bours of Miyako, Yamada, and 



500 



Route 76.— The North-East Coast 



Kamaishi are the finest in Japan. 
Unfortunately, but little advantage 
can be taken of them, as a mountain 
range shuts out the fertile valley of 
the Kitakami-gawa, which attracts 
to itself all the produce of the sur- 
rounding districts, the scanty mari- 
time population having to subsist 
on fishing and on the cultivation of 
small isolated patches of land 
around the bays. Further north, 
from Miyako to Omoto, Kuji, and 
Hachi-no-he, the scenery is less 
interesting, the accommodation very 
poor, and the coast road much 
broken up ever since the great tidal 
wave of 1896, necessitating a resort 
to cross-country roads and mere 
mountain tracks. 

It is off this N.E. coast of Japan that 
lies the deepest portion of the Pacific, 
known as the "Tuscarora Deep," from 
the soundings made in 1873 by Admiral 
Belknap, U.S.N. , in the ship of that name. 

The route here given combines 
the finest part of the sea-board with 
beautiful river and mountain 
scenery. 

From Morioka, a road barely prac- 
ticable for jinrikishas (horses to be 
preferred) leads to Miyako. The 
trip takes 2 days the only available 
resting-place being Kawa-uchi, 
almost exactly half-way. 

Itinerary. 

MORIOKA to:— Ri Gho M. 

Yanagawa 4 20 11 

Kadoma 5 26 14 

Kawa-uchi 4 3 10 

Kawai 4 7 10J 

Moichi 4 19 11 

MIYAKO 4 7 10J- 

Total 27 10 66£ 

Soon after leaving Morioka, the 
road begins a steady ascent for 7 
ri, reaching the water-shed after a 
series of large elbow-bends. The 
summit (2,600 ft.) is called Kabuto- 
kami-san, since here it was that the 
helmet (kabuto) of the rebel Abe- no- 
Sadat 6 was found after his defeat 



near Ichi-no-seki by Hachiman Taro 
in A.D. 1062. From this point 
down to the sea, the road follows 
the course of the Hegawa-kawa, the 
grandest scenery coming some 3 ri 
below the pass on its E. side. Here 
for 2 ri the road is cut out, half 
tunnel- wise, high up along the face 
of the sheer precipice, which looks 
down upon the torrent rushing and 
foaming in its rocky channel. To 
see this to perfection, an early start 
from Morioka is necessary. From 
Kawa-uchi to Miyako is a long 
succession of picturesque land- 
scapes, with granite boulders glit- 
tering in the broadening river as 
it sweeps round jutting cliffs and 
pillars of basalt. Near Kadoma a 
path branches off to the S., leading 
up the valley of the Oyama-gawa, 
whence the ascent of Hayachine- 
yama (6,660 ft.), the highest moun- 
tain in the district E. of the Kita- 
kami-gawa, can be made. 

Miyako lies on the shores of a 
bay 5 m. deep, protected by an is- 
land forming a fine harbour. The 
best inn in the district is at Kuwa- 
gisaki, less than 1 m. north of 
Miyako. 

2. — Coast Road to Kamaishi. 

Itinerary. 

MIYAKO to :— Bi Gho M. 

Yamada 6 7 15 

Ozuchi 5 12 13 

KAMAISHI 4 12 10£ 

Total 15 31 38J 



Horses procurable at any of these 
places, and accommodation fair. 
Steamers ply between Yamada and 
Ozuchi, taking about 6 hrs. 

Yamada (Inn, by Kando Kan- 
jiro). Two villages lie on the shores 
of the magnificent bay that forms 
the harbour of Yamada, surround- 
ed by hills over 1,000 ft. in height. 

Ozuchi (Inn, Kataoka). Travel- 
lers not wishing to touch at Kama- 
ishi can save several miles on the 



Route 77. — The Tonami Peninsula. 



501 



way to D5zan and Ohashi by turn- 
ing inland up a valley about 1 ri 
after passing this place. The time 
occupied between Ozuchi and D6- 
zan will be about 3f hrs. on horse- 
back. 

Kamaishi (poor accommodation) 
is situated at the head of a rocky 
inlet 2 miles deep. The ascent of 
Goyo-zan (3,900 ft.), can easily be 
made from this place. 

Itinerary. 

KAMAISHI to :— Ri Cho M. 

Ohashi 4 33 12 

Tono 5 35 14} 

Shimo Miyamori ... 5 24 13f 

Tsuchizawa 3 21 8| 

HANAMAKI 3 13 8£ 

Total 23 18 57J 

The chief interest to some travel- 
lers on this section of the route will 
be the iron mines of Dozan._ The 
best accommodation is at Ohashi, 
Tono, and Tsuchizawa. A tramway 
belonging to the Mining_Oompany 
connects Kamaishi with Ohashi (If 
hr.), which is 1J ri from Dozan. A 
private car might be obtained by 
applying for it overnight. 

From Ohashi it is necessary to 
walk or take horses for 2} ri over 
the steep Sennin-ioge, to Kutsukake 
on the other side ; jinrikishas previ- 
ously ordered from Tono can meet 
the traveller. A considerable por- 
tion of the way leads along the 
bank of the brawling Saru-ga-ishi- 
gawa ; the latter part is up and 
down among hills. For 

Hanamaki, see p. 482. 



EOUTE 77. 



The Tonami Peninsula. 

fbom noheji to tanabtj. fkom ao- 

mobi to ominato. eamaetjse-san 

and osoee-zan. 

This hatchet-shaped peninsula 
lies in the extreme N. E. corner 
of the Main Island. The head of the 
hatchet' — so to speak — consists of a 
jumble of hills, very sparsely in- 
habited, while the handle is narrow, 
mostly flat moorland covered with 
deep snowdrifts in winter, and 
devoid of shade or shelter at every 
season. The W. coast is rocky, the 
E. sandy. The accommodation is 
everywhere poor, except at Tanabu, 
the chief town and at Ominato. 
But political considerations have 
led the Government to devote some 
attention to the development of this 
region, and the land, which in many 
places is well adapted for grazing 
purposes, has been offered to settlers 
at a nominal price. Ominato has 
been selected as a naval station. 

The peninsula can be approached 
in two ways : — 

I. By basha from Noheji on the 
Northern Kail way to Tanabu (Inn, 
Yamamoto), a distance of 13 ri 7 
cho (32J m.), divided into two stages 
by the midway vill. of Yokohama, 
where one may lunch. The road 
is, as already indicated, flat, sandy 
in parts, and treeless, and what 
land lies under cultivation affords 
but meagre crops to a few hardy 
settlers. The extinct volcanic peak 
of Kamafuse-san (2,570 ft.) at the 
N.E. corner of the bay, forms a 
picturesque object ahead. 

II. By coasting steamer which 
leaves Aomori every night calling 
at Wakinosawa and Kawachi, and 
reaches Ominato (Inns, Kikuchi, 
Shinkiro) at 6 a.m. Travellers 
bound south may take the daily 
steamer leaving Ominato at 8 a.m. 
and reaching Noheji about noon. 



502 



Route 77. — The Tonami Peninsula. 



Every small indentation of the coast 
line contains a cluster of houses 
backed by well-wooded hills. Droves 
of cattle may also be seen on the 
fine grazing ground lining the 
shore, as the vessel approaches 
Ominato, a small port lying at the 
foot of Kamafuse-san, which here 
slopes down in deep ridges to the 
water's edge. Tanabu is 1 ri 15 chb 
distant by a good jinrikisha road. 

Kamaf use-san. This, the high- 
est mountain in the peninsula, 
3,016 ft. above sea-level, may be 
best ascended from Ominato, the 
climb being estimated at 3 ri. The 
summit affords an extensive view, 
Hakodate being visible, as well as 
most of the higher mountains of 
Northern Japan. 

Osore-zan (Jap. " the Mountain 
of Dread," but the name is more 
probably of Aino derivation). This 
place, famous all over the north, 
is not a mountain, as is commonly 
believed, but a hollow in the hills 
behind Kamafuse-san, in which 
are found a crater lake, a Bud- 
dhist temple, and a steam factory 
for refining sulphur. It lies 3 ri 
13 chb (8i m.) from Tanabu, the way 
leading for ] \ hr. more over moor- 
land, and then up and down under 
the shade of chestnuts and cedars 
(for a descent of 21 chb has to be 
made), before reaching the lake, — 
Osore-ko, — which is only 690 ft. 



above sea-level. Densely wooded 
peaks surround it, those on the E. 
and S. rising directly from the lake, 
with Kamafuse towering above all. 
Close by, on the W. side, stands the 
temple of JBodaiji. 

Legend names Jikaku Daishi as its 
founder, to whom the peculiar attributes 
of the place were revealed in a dream 
during his visit to China in A.D. 838. 
The saint's wanderings in the north 
after his return to Japan, finally led him 
to take up his abode on Kamafuse-san, 
from whose summit a cormorant flying 
northwards indicated the object of his 
early dream. The annual festival takes 
place on the 24th day of the 7th moon, 
old style. 

The temple buildings are well- 
preserved, the priests provide fair 
accommodation for visitors, and the 
sulphur baths have some local 
reputation. To the 1. of Bodaiji, a 
large area has been devastated by 
subterranean forces. Boiling water 
and mud of every hue seethe up 
incessantly, while all around huge 
rocks lie scattered about in strange- 
ly contorted shapes. The sulphur- 
refining works also stand on this 
side. 

It would not make too long a 
day to vary this excursion by_ tak- 
ing jinrikisha from Tanabu to Obata 
(3 ri 29 chb) on the N. coast, whence 
a walk of about 4 ri to Osore-zan, 
and returning to Tanabu by the 
way described above. 



SECTION VII. 

THE ISLAND OF YEZO, THE 

KURILE ISLANDS, AND 

SAGHALIEN. 

(Routes j8 — 83. 



I 



Route 78. — Hakodate and Neighbourhood. 



505 



ROUTE 78. 

Hakodate and Neighbourhood. 

1. general observations on yezo. 
2. hakodate. 3. walks near 
hakodate. 



1.- 



-General Observations 
on Yezo. 



No mention of Yezo is made in the 
earlier historical records, and it was pro- 
bably unknown to the Japanese until the 
period when the last of the Ainos, or 
Ainu, as they are called in their native 
tongue, were expelled from their ancient 
homes in the Main Island of Japan. 
Tradition asserts that Yoshitsune (p. 86) 
found refuge here from the unnatural 
enmity of his elder brother ; and to this 
day his memory is revered by the simple 
aborigines. Later on, Yezo was colonised 
and partly conquered by Taketa Nobu- 
hiro, to whose descendant, Matsumae 
Yoshihiro, the lordship of the island was 
granted in 1604 by Ieyasu. Matsumae's 
successors, whose seat of government 
was at the town of Matsumae, since re- 
named Fukuyama, continued to rule over 
the western portion of the island down to 
1868. From towards the end of the 18th 
century, the eastern half had, with the 
exception of a break from 1820 to 1854, 
been administered by officials of the Sho- 
gunate. During the civil tronbles of 1868, 
Admiral Enomoto took the Shogun's fleet 
up to Yezo, captured Hakodate and Matsu- 
mae, and proclaimed a republic, but 
was forced to capitulate in the following 
year. After the overthrow of the Toku- 
gawa Shoguns and the consequent media- 
tisation of the Daimyos, Yezo was placed 
under a special department of the new 
government, entitled Kaitakushi (Colo- 
nisation Commission), and henceforth 
was regarded as a part of Japan proper. 
It received the designation of Hokkaido, 
or North Sea Circuit, and was divided 
into ten provinces. Yezo had been 
formerly resorted to by the northern 
Japanese chiefly for the sake of the 
fisheries ; but attempts were now made to 
induce natives of other parts of Japan to 
emigrate thither as agricultural settlers, 
and public works were commenced on 
an extensive scale, under the control 
of American specialists. After large 
sums had been expended without ade- 
quate return, the more ambitious of 
these schemes were abandoned in 1881, 
the Kaitakushi being dissolved, and the 
government of the island assimilated to 
the pref ectural system of the rest of the 
empire, with Sapporo as the capital. 
The chief ports of Yezo are Hakodate, 



Muroran, Kushiro, and Nemuro on the 
S.E. coast, and Otaru on the west. Much 
of the interior is still covered with virgin 
forest, rarely penetrated except by the 
aboriginal Ainos in quest of bear and 
deer. The chief trees are oak, ash, pine, 
maple, magnolia, etc. 

The characteristics of Yezo, both natu- 
ral and artificial, differ in many respects 
from those of the Main Island of Japan. 
The climate is colder, the country newer, 
the people less polished and more inde- 
pendent. Few, if any, old temples or 
other historical monuments exist; but 
there are interesting remnants of the 
Aino race — hairy barbarians, — which once 
peopled not Yezo only, but a great por- 
tion of Japan proper. In many places, 
too, relics of the stone age, which for this 
island has only recently passed away, are 
to be met with. Some Ainos may be 
seen along the south-east coast near 
Muroran and around Volcano Bay, but the 
race and its customs are found in a purer 
state only in the remotest districts of the 
north. 

Zoologically, Yezo belongs to a different 
sub-region from Japan proper, the deep 
Straits of Tsugaru forming what has been 
called " Blakiston's line " from the name 
of the late Captain T. W. Blakiston, R.A. 
On the Yezo side of this line there are no 
pheasants and no monkeys, while there 
exist a species of grouse and the solitary 
snipe; the bear belong to a different 
species from those found on the Main 
Island. Yezo is also remarkable for the 
number of its singing birds. There are 
numerous other divergences both in the 
fauna and flora, adding their testimony 
to the fact that Yezo and the Main Island, 
though so close to each other, have been 
separated during long geological ages. 
The chief productions are herrings, 
salmon, pilchards, beche-de-mer, fish 
manure, and above all kobu (or korribu), 
a broad, thick, and very long species of 
seaweed, which forms a favourite article 
of diet not only in Japan but in China, 
to which latter country large quantities 
are exported. The most important 
mineral product hitherto has been coal. 
Gold was discovered in 1899. 

For five months of the year Yezo is 
under snow and ice, the snow averaging 
about 2 ft. at Hakodate, and from 6 ft. 
to 8 ft. in the N. and W. of the island. 
The lowest reading of the thermometer 
at Hakodate since the establishment of 
regular meteorological observations has 
been 5°. 5 Fahrenheit. On the other hand., 
the second half of July and the first half 
of August are hot, mosquitoes are very 
troublesome, and there is an additional 
pest of gadflies (abu), whose attacks 
are so violent that it is necessary, 
when riding about the country, to wear 
a gauze veil and gloves. The best time 
for visiting Yezo is from the middle of 
May to the middle of July, and from the 



SOUTH WESTERN 

YUO 



■;.,,•-„, 



"1 7 m 



--r 






/ 1 fi /- 



506 



Route 79. — Excursions from Hakodate. 



beginning of September to the beginning 
of November. The scenery of the island, 
though less striking than that of Japan 
proper, has a charm of its own and a 
certain resemblance to North-Central 
Europe. There is good salmon fishing in 
several places during the month of June, 
and snipe and duck-shooting in the 
autumn, with occasionally a bear. 

There are comparatively few good 
roads, the inns are often far apart, and 
jinrikishas are met with only in a few 
places, and basha on the main roads. 
Most journeys are performed in the 
saddle, horses being numerous, though 
not particularly good. Travellers are 
advised to bring their own saddles. 

The Japanese inhabitants of Yezo are a 
mixed community, being chiefly settlers 
from one or other of the northern prov- 
inces. The population, at the last census 
was about 1,400,000, of whom 18,000 were 
Ainos. 



2. — Hakodate. 

Hakodate. 

Inns. — Katsuta, Europ. food; Kito. 
There are no hotels approaching the 
standard of the other open ports. 
Europ. Bestt. — Goto-ken. 

The town clusters at the foot of 
a bold rock, often compared to 
Gibraltar, whose summit, locally 
called "the Peak," is 1,157 ft. high. 
It is now crowned by a fort, and 
closed to the public. The number 
of foreign residents — chiefly mis- 
sionaries — is small, and the town, 
notwithstanding its size and pros- 
perity, is of little account as a port 
for direct foreign trade. Drinking 
water is conveyed in iron pipes 
from the river Akagawa, 7 miles 
distant. An electric tramway, with 
a branch to Yunokawa, runs from 
one end of the town to the other. 

Good steamers connect Hakodate 
with Aomori twice daily; small 
steamers daily with Muroran from 
Mori station (see p. 510): others run 
tri-monthly to Saghalien and to 
Shana in the Kuriles, calling at 
Kushiro, etc.; and occasionally down 
the West Coast to Sakata, Niigata, 
Sakai, and Inland Sea ports. 
Numerous small steamers ply round 
the Yezo coast. 



3. — Walks neab Hakodate. 

To the Public Gardens and Ya- 
chi-gashira. The Public Gardens, 
on the E. outskirts of the town, 
contain a small museum and a 
Public Library. Yachi-gashira is 
the name of a picturesque dell lying 
a little further on, but is now much 
built over. The Shinto temple of 
Hachiman is also prettily situated 
on the hillside. The village on the 
near sea-shore seen from here is 
called Shiri-sawabe, passing through 
which a walk of about J m. may be 
taken to a spot called East Point, 
where there is a wireless telegraph 
station. Just at the back of this 
stands a curious arched rock. 

In the opposite direction, name- 
ly, turning out of the Main Street 
to the r., a walk or ride may be 
taken past the gaol and barracks to 
a fort called Goryo-kaku. This dis- 
used fort, erected in the latter days 
of the Tokugawa regime, stands 
about 4 miles from the town. The 
moat furnishes a good supply of ice 
for the southern ports. 



KOUTE 79. 

excubsions fbom hakodate. 

1. yunokawa. 2. the akagawa 
valley and akanuma. 3. the 
lakes and koma-ga-take. 4. the 
hot spbings of nobobi-betsu. 5. 
esan. 6. fukuyama. 7. esashi. 

1. — Yunokawa. 

Distance, 1 ri 30 cho (4 J m.) by 
jinrikisha or electric tramway £ hr. 

Yunokawa (Inns, Homei-kwan, 
Bincho-kwan) is a pleasant place, 
owing to its pure sea air, its hot 



Akagawa Valley. The Lakes. Koma-ga-take. 507 



springs, and the pretty walks in 
the neighbourhood, especially one 
to Yunosauca, less than 1 ri inland. 
The large building 1., about half- 
way between Hakodate and Yuno- 
kawa, is a convict prison. On the 
r., just before reaching Yunokawa, 
lies a race-course, distinguished by 
the big barn-like buildings attached 
to it. Enormous quantities of lilies 
of the valley cover the ground in 
June. A short way beyond Yuno- 
kawa, on the main road, is a fine 
Japanese landscape garden, called 
Kyfishi Meichi, belonging to Mr. 
Iwafune Minejiro. Admission may 
be obtained on application. 

2. — The Akagawa Valley and 
Akanuma. 

The Akagawa Valley, 8 m. 
distant, forms one of the most 
interesting excursions from Hako- 
date. It can best be reached by 
taking tram to the terminus at 
Wakamatsu-cho, whence by basha 
or on foot for about 4 m. Passing 
the two reservoirs at Akagawa 
and through the village, the road 
keeps straight on for a long distance. 
Avoiding the stream at the ford or 
bridge, take a path through the 
bushes on 1. of river which leads 
into a gorge noted for its rugged 
grandeur. — The walk can be con- 
tinued to the small crater-lake, called 
Akanuma ; but a guide from the 
vill. is indispensable. In the same 
neighbourhood is another crater- 
lake, called Hydtan-nurr/z. 

3. — The Lakes and Koma-ga- 
take. 

The favourite holiday resort in 
the neighbourhood of Hakodate is 
that known to foreigners as The 
Lakes, for which take train to 
Onurna Koen station, 1 hr. where 
stand the best inns, Hyakka-en and 
Koyo-kwan. — There are three lakes 
of considerable size, — Konuma and 
Onurna are connected by a narrow 



passage over which the railway 
runs ; Junsai-numa lies a short 
distance to the W. of Konuma. 
The shores of Onurna near the rail- 
way have been prettily laid out as 
a national park. About 2 m. below 
the exit from Lake Onuma are the 
works which supply Hakodate with 
electric power. The lakes lie not 
far from the base of the volcano of 
Koma-ga-take. Their shores are 
covered with luxuriant vegetation, 
while the islets furnish objective 
points for those who may wish to 
go out boating. The lake fish can 
be taken with a worm, but will not 
rise to the fly. Junsai-numa con- 
tains prawns of a delicate flavour. 
This sheet of water takes its name 
from a species of lily (Limnanthe- 
mum peltatum), which is considered 
a delicacy and is brought in great 
quantities to Hakodate. No place 
in Yezo affords so good a field to 
the entomologist, especially if lepi- 
doptera be the object of his search. 
Boats for going out on the lake, and 
fishing-gear can be hired. Statues 
of Admiral Togd and General 
Oyama have been erected here. 
Onuma Koen is also the station for 
Koma-ga-take, the mountain 
whose sharp peak, 3,860 ft. (in 
reality only the higher side of the 
crater wall), forms so conspicuous 
an object from Hakodate. To reach 
it, take guide from Koma-ga-take 
station or boat across Lake Onuma, 
whence 1J ri easy ascent on foot 
over sand and scoriaB. The lip of 
the crater commands a fine view of 
Volcano Bay on the one hand, and 
on the other of the Lakes, behind 
which Hakodate Bay and even the 
town and shipping can be distin- 
guished. To the 1. towers the wall 
of rock, forming what looks like a 
peak from most points of view. 
The ascent of this, being dangerous 
owing to the loose formation, has 
rarely been attempted. Traces of 
vegetation are found up to the very 
summit. On the way up there is a 
little platform, said to be inaccess- 
ible, which supports three curious- 



508 



Route 79.— Excursions from Hakodate. 



ly shaped stones popularly supposed 
to have been once the abode of 
monkeys. Beneath and in front of 
the spectator lies the crater. To 
the r. is seen Yokotsu-dake, itself 
an old volcano, whose height has 
been estimated at 3,800 ft. 

Inside the ancient crater, which 
contains traces of a low central 
cone, a certain degree of activity is 
still displayed in steaming rifts and 
pit craters, and care must be taken 
in treading on all circles or ridges 
of ground that rise slightly above 
the general level, as they are hollow 
and apt to give way. 

The last great eruption of Koma-ga-take 
took place in 1856, when all the neigh- 
bourhood of the present hamlet of Yake- 
yama (lit, " burning mountain ") is said 
to have been denuded of trees. 

4.— The Hot Spkings of 
nobobi-betstj. 

The volcano from which these 
springs derive their supply of water 
is one of the chief sights of Yezo, 
and lies within easy reach of Hako- 
date. Steamer daily to Muroran 
from Mori (see p. 510), 5 hrs, whence 
1 hr. by rail to Nobori-betsu station. 
Basha await the train to take 
visitors to Nobori-betsu Onsen 
(Inn, *Takimoto, with private 
baths), 1 ri 26 cho (4 J- m.) distant. 

The way leads up a valley, the 
upper part of which is densely 
wooded, and along a river running 
in a deep ravine over rocks coloured 
brown. The crater, which rises some 
900 ft. above sea-level, and has an 
extreme diameter of slightly under 
1 mile, presents a weird spectacle of 
volcanic energy. A wall of rock 
divides it into two parts. The chief 
activity is displayed in the southern 
half, only a few minutes beyond 
the village, whence loud rumblings 
and subterranean detonations may 
occasionally be heard. There are 
innumerable fumeroles, mud gey- 
sers, and steam vents, notably an 
oval cauldron 35 ft. across, full 
of black seething slime. These 



springs bubble and boil, sending 
forth jets of sulphur and mud of 
every hue, — grey, red, blue-black, 
and yellow. Above them tower 
perpendicular red cliffs, while, 
surmounting all, stretch the varie- 
gated green of the forest. Close 
inspection of the scene under a 
guide is practicable; but the foot- 
ing will be found somewhat treach- 
erous. Leaving this part, one 
passes up to the 1. into an oak-wood, 
much frequented by snakes, where 
a plateau commands a panorama of 
the whole volcanic area, including 
the northern part of the crater, 
which contains a lake of boiling 
water and numerous huge caul- 
drons of seething mud. 

Of walks at Nobori-betsu, the 
best are : — 

Kachidoki-no-taki, a pretty cas- 
cade, 17 cho up in the forest. 

Karurusu Onsen, a tiny spa, 
1 ri 20 cho, of which most of the 
way up through a wood of oaks, 
giant maples, pines, and other 
beautiful trees. The maples around 
Nobori-betsu present a lovely mass 
of colour between the 15th October 
and 10th November. 

Up the hill above the crater for 
1 hr., for extensive view, which 
includes the smoking cone of Tam- 
mai and a large sheet of water. 

5. — The Volcano of Esan. 

This constantly active volcano, 
is 2,000 ft. high. The journey 
thither from Hakodate is performed 
by coasting steamer in 3 hrs. to 
Kdbui or Netanai (hot springs), 
whence the volcano may be ascend- 
ed in 1J hrs. The W. side of the 
crater wall, by which the ascent 
is made, has been completely blown 
away ; the floor seethes with sol- 
fataras and springs of boiling water, 
the central vent, in particular, 
showing vigorous activity. 

[If several days are available for 
the trip, Esan may also be 
approached by way of Shikabe 



Fukuyama. Esashi. 



509 



(basha, 11 m. from Onuma) 
and Kakumi, a small town on 
the coast with hot springs, 
whence by boat to Todo-hokke, 
at the foot of the volcano on 
the N. side. The whole coast 
of the Esan promontory is bold 
and elevated. Basaltic forma- 
tions are much in evidence, 
and, in places, waterfalls leap 
over rocky ledges into the sea.] 

6. — Fukuyama. 

Small steamers leave Hakodate 
for Fuknyama about every other 
day (there is no fixed service), 
the passage occupying from 6 to 
7 hrs. The complete Itinerary of the 
land way is given below; but the 
best plan is to take the daily steam 
launch across Hakodate Bay to 
Moheji and Tobetsu (1J hr.) whence 
basha into Fukuyama. As far as 
Shiriuchi, the road leads mostly 
along the shore, after which there 
are two passes, one on either side 
of Fukushima. At this place the 
journey might be broken. 

HAKODATE to :— Bi Cho M. 

Kami-iso 3 4 1\ 

Moheji 2 28 6| 

Izumi-zawa 3 9 8 

Kikonai 1 34 4| 

Shiriuchi 2 24 '6£ 

Fukushima 7 — 17 

Yoshioka 19 3 

FUKUYAMA 3 29 9J 

Total 25 29 63 



At Tobetsu, 2 m. beyond Moheji, 
a monastery of Trappist monks, 
dating from 1896, crowns the hill. 
Here excellent butter and cheese 
are produced. 

Fukuyama, formerly called 
Matsumae (Inn, Ueno), is situated on 
the coast to the S. W. of Hakodate. 

As long as the city was the residence of 
the lords of Matsumae, almost all the 
trade of Yezo passed through it, and the 
few native travellers of those days were 
obliged to come here to obtain pass- 
ports before proceeding to other points. 



But a fatal blow was dealt to its pros- 
perity by the civil war of 1868, and by the 
retirement of the Dainiyo to Tokyo when 
the feudal system was broken up. The 
castle stood on an eminence overlooking 
the town. 

The castle area has been convert- 
ed into a Public Garden, outside 
which stands a cluster of Buddhist 
temples, the remnant of a large 
number that existed up to 1869. 
Two of them deserve a visit, viz. 
Kozenji belonging to the Jodo sect, 
and Byil-un-in belonging to the Soto 
sect. Kozenji, which was founded 
in 1533, was the burial-place of the 
Daimyos' consorts. 

7. — Esashi. 

By train to Hongo in J hr., 
whence by the following 

Itinerary. 

HONGO to:- Bi Cho M. 

Nakayama 4 18 11 

Uzura 4 18 11 

Gamushi 2 18 6 

ESASHI 3 20 8f 

Total 15 2 36| 



The whole distance may be done 
by train and basha in 1 day. 

From Hongo, the road gradually 
ascends till the top of the pass 
is gained. There is good fishing at 
Nakayama. From the pass a good 
view of Tengu-take, marked by 
three fir-trees, is obtained. The 
ride to the vill. of Uzura may be 
accounted one of the prettiest in 
Yezo, the road winding in and out 
between steep cliffs above a foaming 
river. From Uzura, a path diverges 
to the 1. across a river to the thriving 
agricultural settlement of Tate, 2£ 
ri distant. 

Esashi (Inn, Minami-ya) possess- 
es a harbour unfortunately too 
much exposed. Some high cliffs, 
which here rise behind a Buddhist 
temple, command a fine view. 



510 Route 80. — By Rail to Otaru, Sapporo & Muroran. 



ROUTE 80. 



By Rail from Hakodate to 

Otaru, Sapporo, and 

Muroran. 



[Ascent oe Shiribeshi-zan. 

PlRATORI. TARUMAI. UsU-DAKE.] 



<D 2 

O H cj 


Names 




2 S£ 

Joo 


of 


Remarks 




Stations 




Miles 


HAKODATE 




2 


Goryokaku 




51 


Kikkyo 




Si 


Nanae 




Hi 

161 


Hongo 


Road to Esashi. 


Onuma 








( For the Lakes 


• wi 


Onuma Koen .... 


| and Koma- 


19| 


Akaigawa 


( ga-take. 


22f 
38i 


Koma-ga-take 
Mori. 


( Steamer for 
{ Muroran. 


Ishikura 


*u 


Otoshibe 




44£ 


Nodaoi 




±n 


Yamakoshi 




50^ 


Yakumo 




55 


Yamazaki 




58| 
64 

671 


Kuroiwa 

Kunnui 

Mombetsu 


( For the Biri- 
( ka mines. 


70 


Oshamambe 




75j 


Futamata 




79 


Warabitai 




821 


KUROMATSU- 




871 


NAI 


Road to Suttsu. 


Neppu 


97£ 


Mena 




102 


Rankoshi 




106| 
112£ 
117 


Kombu 

Kaributo 

Hirafu 


( Road to Lake 
( Toya. 


121 


KUTCHAN 


( For Shiri- 
\ beshi-zan. 


127£ 


Kozawa 


( Branch to 
[ Iwanai. 


133* 


Ginzan 




1401 


Shikari-betsu 




1421 


Nikki 




145* 


Yoichi 




148| 


Ranjima 




153 


Shioya 




158 


CHUO OTARU 




159 


OTARU 





The traveller taking this route 
will see Volcano Bay, with its ring 
of lofty cones both active and 



quiescent, and beyond that a large 
section of the country so recently 
opened that much of the virgin 
forest still remains. It is also the 
quickest way to Sapporo, the capi- 
tal of the island. 

Hanae. Here an experimental 
farm was started as far back as 
1868, under American management. 
On leaving Hongo (Inn, Daikoku- 
ya), a rising gradient leads to a long 
tunnel, on emerging from which we 
come in sight of the beautiful Lakes 
described on p. 507. Thence the 
line skirts the base of Koma-ga-take, 
doubling on itself to overcome the 
heavy gradient and affording vary- 
ing views of the volcano till it 
reaches the shore of Volcano Bay at 

Mori (Inn, Yamaka). Steamers 
run hence daily to Muroran in from 
2J to 3 hrs. Fishing hamlets stud 
the coast, where in parts, owing to 
a bold bluff that runs parallel to it, 
there is only room for the old road 
and the railway ; in others, some ex- 
tent of cultivated land fringes the 
sea. At 

Osliamambe (Inn, Yama-sho), 
the line takes a sharp turn inland 
through virgin forest, though much 
of the ground bordering the railway 
has been cleared. Near by is a till. 
of Ainos, who have been reclaimed 
from barbarism. 

Futamata. 1 ri 25 cho S.W. 
of the station, stands the small bath- 
ing resort of Kuma-no-onsen. Bear 
still occasionally infest the neigh- 
bourhood. Kuromatsu-nai (Inn, 
Kanedai) is a growing place, besides 
being the station for the port 
of Suttsu, 4 ri 9 cho distant by 
basha. From here a stiff ascent, 
with two tunnels, takes us over the 
divide to Mena, the lofty range of 
Muine-dake appearing ahead to the 
1. The beautiful Shiribeshi-gawa, 
whose devious windings are follow- 
ed for some miles, is lined with 
maple-trees, which are at their best 
in October, and are then visited by 
holiday-makers, who alight at Hirafu 
station. The river itself is crossed 
before reaching 



Shiribeshi-zan. Otaru-Muroran Railway. 



511 



Kutchan ( Inn, Igeta), the starting- 
point for the ascent of Shiribeshi- 
zan, and also the station for the hot 
springs of Yamada, 2 ri. 

[Shiribeshi-zan, estimated at 6,500 
ft., is one of the loftiest mountains 
in Yezo. It is also known as the 
Yezo Fuji, on account of its perfectly 
symmetrical shape. It is an extinct 
volcano, rising isolated out of the 
plain. There are three old craters 
on the summit, with circumferences 
of 2 miles, * mile, and } mile respec- 
tively. The most recent disturbance 
seems to have occurred in the 
smallest crater of the three, as huge 
blocks of black lava remain heaped 
up in indescribable confusion nearly 
level with the rim. The others are 
filled with creeping pines. 

The expedition up and down 
the mountain can easily be 
done by a sturdy pedestrian in 
one day, but parts are very 
steep. At a height of 3,700 
ft. creeping pines coyer the 
ground, and a way has to be 
hacked through them. A hut 
exists in which to take shelter, 
and a pond with good drinking 
water is passed 12 chb below 
the summit. Tarious points of 
the summit command splendid 
views. Southward the whole of 
Volcano Bay lies spread out like 
a huge lake, with Kombudake 
in the foreground and Komaga- 
take on the far side. To the 
"W., the sulphur mountain Iwo- 
nobori cuts the sky-line with 
its jagged peaks, while to the 
E. Yubari-dake and Tarumai- 
zan loom up out of the horizon. 
On the N., the view embraces 
the hills of the Muine-dake 
range, with the Otaru district 
beyond.] 

On leaving Kutchan, the line 
again enters the hills. The port of 
Iwanai (Inn, Igeta) is connected 
with Kozawa by a light railway, 9\ 
m. in length. A long tunnel (5,841 
ft.) pierces the Inao Pass before 
Ginzan. Silver and coal mining is 
carried on in the surrounding 
country. At 



Shikari-betsu (Inn, \Vajima-ya.) 
we cross the Yoichi-gawa, the 
mountains recede, and we begin to 
pass through cultivated country. 

Yoichi (Inn, Kanemata) is a 
large place, noted for its herring 
fisheries and its sea-bathing. Scat- 
tered Aino dwellings are found in 
the vicinity. Numerous rocks form 
a curious feature of the coast. The 
line now comes out on the sea-shore, 
a welcome change after so many 
hours spent in the forest. Several 
tunnels then cut through the hills, 
which here come down to the coast 
before reaching Chuo Otaru, the 
station at the W. end of 

Otaru (Inns, Etchu-ya, semi- 
Europ., Kito). Next to Hakodate, 
this is the largest and most bustling 
place on the coast. The sole re- 
maining evidences of the former 
Aino occupation of the place are 
flint implements and fragments of 
pottery imbedded in the soil at a 
suburb called Temiya. The public 
park, called Kanazawa Shokubutsu- 
en, contains a good collection of 
plants and commands a fine view 
across the bay ; to those interested 
in pisciculture the Takashima ex- 
perimental fishery station, situated 
on the other side of the hill beyond 
Temiya, deserves a visit. The chief 
industries of Otaru are lumber 
works and oil refining from rape 
and linseed. The new harbour 
works are on a large scale. 

The following is the schedule of 
the Main line as for as Iwamizawa, 
and by branch line to Muroran. 



w r* n 


Names 




ft 


of 
Stations 


Remarks 


Miles 


OTARU 




5 


Asari 




7£ 


Hariusu 




io± 


Zenibako 




15| 


Karugawa 




19* 


Kotoni 




22 


SAPPORO 




28£ 


Atsubetsu 





512 Eoute 80. — By Rail to Otaru, Sapporo & Muroran. 



33 


Nopporo 


/For Main line 


35 


Ebetsu 


to Asa hi - 


40f 


Horomui 


gawa and 
Kushiro, see 
next Rte. 


m 


Iwamizawa Jet.. 


"\ Also branch 
I to Poronai, 
1 7m. and Iku- 


50 


Shibun 


1 shumbetsu, 


53 


Kiyomappu 


* 11£ m. 


58^ 


Kuriyama 




61} 


Yuni 




66 


Mikawa 




71 


Oiwake Jet 


( Branch to 
( Yubari. 


™k 


Abira 




781 


Hayakita 




82 


Toasa 




87 


Numa-no-hata 




931 


Tomakomai 


( For Lake Shi- 


99 


Nishitappu 


] kotsu and 


106* 


Shiraoi 


( Tarumai. 


113* 


Shikyu 




118* 


Nobori-betsu 




122£ 


Horobetsu 




129 


Washibetsu 




130f 


Wanishi 




133* 


MURORAN 





The scenery is pretty for the first 
few miles, the railway being hem- 
med in between bold cliffs and the 
sea. The plain surrounding the 
mouth of the river Ishikari is then 
reached, and the rest of the way 
lies over flat marshy country, part- 
ly cultivated. 

Sapporo (Inns, *Yamagata-ya, 
Semi-Europ. ; Hohei-kwan, with 
Europ. annexe). 

This, the capital of the island, did not 
grow up naturally, like Matsumae in old 
times and Hakodate in more recent days, 
in obedience to the requirements of 
trade. It was created by official fiat in 
the year 1870, and depends for its pros- 
perity chiefly on the public institutions 
established there, notably on Tohoku 
University, formerly the Agricultural 
College which is the last remnant of the 
Kaitakushi, or Colonisation Commission, 
and on the garrison. A bronze statue of 
Count Kuroda, for a time chief of the 
Commission, stands in the public square. 

The Museum, standing in grounds 
that resemble an English park (but 
of which scant care is taken), con- 
tains specimens of Aino work, stone 
implements, and ornithological and 
other collections. Adjacent to the 
museum is a botanical garden. 
There are also saw-mills and flour- 



mills, hemp and flax factories, and 
a brewery, besides small theatres 
and various other places of amuse- 
ment. Sapporo Beer enjoys much 
favour. 

The best sights near Sapporo are 
to the Nakajima Yitenchi, or park, 
to the horse-breeding farm of Mako- 
manai, and the cattle and sheep 
farm of Tsukinappu (half-day by 
jinrikisha), and to the Maruyama 
Park, where stands the Shinto tem- 
ple of Sapporo Jinja ; great annual 
festival, 15-I8th June. 

The longer excursions are : — 

1. On foot or by jinrikisha to 
Kariki, distant about 1 ri. There 
take a dug-out canoe, and drift 
down to Ebetsu, spinning or fly- 
fishing on the way. Eeturn in the 
afternoon by train. 

2. On horseback or by basha 
past the Makomanai horse-farm, 
and through Ishiyama to Jomnkei 
(Inn, Sato), on the river Toyohira, 
where there are hot springs and 
good fishing. Distance, 7 ri 10 cho. 

3. To the vill. of Chitose (Inn, 
Shimbo), 10 ri by horse or basha, 
whence to Lake Shikotsu, 6 ri, on 
horseback only. There is a beauti- 
ful waterfall on the way. The lake 
can also be reached from Nishitappu 
station. 

Shikotsu is a crater lake, from 20 to 
30 miles in circumference, noted for its 
weird, subaqueous formation of fissured 
and pinnacled rocks, which can be 
clearly discerned in the clear water. A 
ridge, rising very steeply for 500 ft. 
forms the lip of the old crater, and on 
this lip at several points are cones, some 
of which are still active, attaining a 
height of from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. above the 
level of the lake. 

Bough accommodation and Aino 
boats for fishing are procurable. 
About half-way between the lake 
and Ohitose is a salmon-breeding 
establishment (Fukajb), from which 
Ebetsu station may be reached in 
Aino boats down the river ; but one 
day's notice is necessary. Game is 
plentiful. The distance from Chi- 
tose is 45 m., and under favourable 
circumstances, with three men to 



Piratori. Volcano of Tarumai. 



513 



pole in sluggish water, may be 
covered in 9 hrs. — Chitose can also 
be approached from either Hayakita 
station, whence 4 ri, or from Toma- 
komai station, 7 rl. 

Leaving Sapporo, the railway 
first runs E., and crosses the Yubari- 
gawa at Ubetsu. 

Iwami-zawa (Inn, Zeni-jirushi) 
is a busy centre for the distribution 
of coal from the mines in the vicini- 
ty. Here the main line proceeds 
due north as far as Asahi-gawa, 
before turning south for Kushiro. 

The line now turns sharp south. 
Save for views of distant mountains, 
it is a dull run hence to the coast, 
the forest having been cleared on 
either side up to the backgrouud of 
hills. Near the coast, the land be- 
comes marshy and there is little 
cultivation. 

Oiwake (Inn, Shimbo). The 
buildings seen on r. are the coke 
ovens of the Tanko Kwaisha. 

[A branch line from this place to 
Yubari (Inn, Gasshuku), called 
the Tanko Bailicay, 26J m., 
follows the windings of the 
Yubari-gawa, which is bordered 
with maple-trees, and affords 
pretty glimpses of waterfalls. 
Here are situated the biggest 
collieries in Yezo, well deserv- 
ing a visit. The neighbour- 
hood also boasts a hot spring, 
called Hasegaica Onsen.] 

Numa-no-hata (Inn, Arai, at 
station). 

[A 2 day's excursion may be made 
hence to Piratori (Inn, Indo), 
13 ri, the largest settlement 
of the southern Ainos ; but the 
place and its inhabitants have 
become quite Japonicized. 
Horses can be hired at the inn. 
JBasha also run daily via Azuma 
(Inn, Kuzumaki) to Mukaica, 
where there are petroleum 
springs. The way leads along 
the coast to Sarufuto (Inn, Mori) 



whence 4 ri up the river Saru. 
Some may find it convenient to 
stop over at Sarufuto, where 
horses can also be hired. — The 
town of Piratori — if such it can 
be called — stands in a lonely 
dell, surrounded at a distance by 
green hills of moderate height, 
and is divided into two parts, an 
upper and a lower, each con- 
taining some fifty straw huts. 
These line one side of the path 
in single file, the family store- 
houses standing opposite, raised 
on four posts to escape the 
damp. All purely Aino villages 
follow the same pattern. Some 
curious dances performed by 
the Aino women may be seen 
on payment of a few yen.] 

Tomakomai (Inn, Maru-ju, at 
station) is situated some distance 
from the railway. The large build- 
ings on the 1. are those of the Oji 
Paper Co. which derives its motive 
power from Lake Shikotsu, and to 
which the same company maintains 
a light railway. Two and a half 
days' ride from this place lies Nii- 
kappu, where is the largest horse- 
breeding establishment in Yezo. 
Horses should be ordered before- 
hand from the inn. 

The Pacific Ocean, beating in 
breakers on the coast, now comes 
in view ; and in early summer the 
wealth of lilies of the valley and 
other wild-flowers is astonishing. 
From here on to the end of the 
journey, Ainos and their huts may 
occasionally be seen. 

From the next station, Nishitappu, 
the ascent of the active volcano of 
Tarumai may most conveniently 
be made. This mountain was the 
scene of a violent eruption in 1909, 
when a huge mass of viscous lava 
exuded from the main vent at the 
summit to a height of 200 feet. The 
ascent, which is made by a gully 
in the S. W. side of the cone, will 
occupy 5 hrs. The view from the 
summit, which includes Lake Shi- 



514 



fioute 81. — From Otara to Kushiro. 



kotsu, the rugged mass of Eniwa, 
and the remoter cones of Shiribeshi- 
dake and Koma-ga-take, is mag- 
nificent. An early start should 
be made to permit of a return to 
Nobori-betsu or Muroran as. the 
accommodation at Nishitappu is 
primitive. 

Shiraoi now affords the best 
place to see an Aino village. 

Nobori-betsu (see p. 517). 

Horobetsu {Inn, Suzuki) is a 
mixed Aino and Japanese village, 
the centre for many years of the 
Christianising and civilising en- 
deavours of the Kev. John Bat- 
chelor, of the Church Missionary 
Society. 

Muroran ( Inn, Maru-ichi, at sta- 
tion and landing place, Europ. 
dishes) is finely situated on a land- 
locked bay. It is an important coal 
depot, and is noted for a large sea 
shell, — the hotate-gai, or Pecten 
yessoensis. Here stand the exten- 
sive Steel Works of the Seikosho 
(Armstrong and Yickers Associated), 
an Anglo- Japanese enterprise for 
the manufacture of large guns and 
accessories. Beyond these works, 
at Wanishi, the Tanko Kwaisha have 
erected blast furnaces for the 
reduction of iron ore and magnetic 
sand found in the neighbourhood of 
Volcano Bay. Half-an-hour's climb 
from Muroran, under the shade of 
trees, takes one to the summit of 
Sokuryo-zan, a hill marked by a 
survey tripod, and offering a 
splendid panorama of the Bay and 
neighbouring volcanoes. A few 
Ainos still inhabit the fishing vill. 
of Edomon, 1 hr. walk along the 
coast and through woods. 

A pleasant excursion may be 
made to Mombetsu (Inn, Abe), on 
Volcano Bay, by small steamer 
leaving Muroran every morning, 
and takingjL hr. Thence to So- 
hetsu (Inn, Ono) on beautiful Lake 
Tbya, 3 ri by basha, for the sake of 
the scenery and the ascent of the 
active volcano of Usu-dake (2,500 
ft.). This mountain, which rises be- 



tween the lake and the sea, was the 
scene of a violent eruption in 1910. 
The outbreak did not take place at 
the summit, where there is a large 
crater, nearly extinct, but low down 
on the landward flank 200 to 300 ft, 
above the placid waters of the lake. 
Here four large cinder- cones were 
thrown up. The nearest of these 
may easily be reached from Sobetsu 
in 1 hr., and the descent made to 
the lake-side road leading to Abuta 
on the coast, whence steamer back 
to Muroran in about 2 hrs. 

An alternative excursion, occupy- 
ing 3 to 4 hrs. is to walk round the 
lake to the vill. of Toya (Inn, Mitsu- 
hashi), whence by boat back to 
S5betsu. 

The coast road round the head of 
Volcano Bay, in which several small 
Aino settlements exist, is much 
broken up, except in the vicinity of 
the larger villages. 

Small steamers cross the mouth 
of Volcano Bay daily from Muroran 
to Mori, 3 hrs., whence to Hakodate 
by rail in 2 hrs. more. 



KOUTE 81. 



Feom Otaeu to Kushieo. 
[Feom Ikeda to Abashibi.] 



For Schedule between Otaru and 
Iwamizawa Jet. see previous Route. 
The following is a Schedule of the 
principal stations onwards. 



Asahi-gawa. Tokachi Plain. 



515 



|as 

j| o es 

5 ° 


Names 

of 
Stations 


Kemarks 


Miles 

226j 

231 

245£ 

253§ 

265* 

2991 

332| 

377i 

392± 

421 

457£ 


IWAMIZAWA 
JCT 


For Muroran. 
/ Branch to 
1 Utashinai 
j (coal mines), 
I 9 m. 

/Line to Shimo 
J Furano un- 
1 der construc- 
l tion. 

f Branch to Ku- 
\ moe, 31m. 

For S5ya. 

j Branch to 
I Abashiri. 


Sunagawa 

Takigawa 

Fukagawa 

Kamui-kotan 

Asahi-gawa Jet.. 

Shimo Furano 

Ochiai 

Obihiro 

Ikeda 


Atsumi 
KUSHIRO 



From Iwamizawa the line follows 
the eastern edge of the Ishikari 
plain, affording occasional views of 
the central mountain range. Be- 
tween Sunagawa and Takigawa, it 
crosses the Sorachi-gawa, along 
which a line is in course of con- 
struction affording a shorter route 
to the eastern parts of the Hokkaido. 
North of Takigawa the mountains 
recede and there is little of interest 
until Kamui-kotan is reached. This 
place is noted for its rock and river 
scenery, for a mineral spring, and 
for its fishing. Between Kamui- 
kotan and Chikabumi there is just 
room for the railway, river, and 
road, and the scenery is quite 
remarkable. 

Asahi-gawa {Inn, Miura-ya, at 
station), one of the largest and most 
thriving places in Yezo, possesses 
wide streets, laid out at right angles. 
Two miles to the N.E., and con- 
nected by tramway, are the head- 
quarters of an Army division. 
Asahi-gawa should make a good 
centre for climbing Kottakka-ushi- 
ube (also called Asahi-dake, 7,250 ft.), 
the highest mountain in the island, 
Ishikari-dake, and Teshio-dake. 



[A cross-country road connects 
Asahi-gawa with Abashiri on 
the coast, about 144 miles. It 
affords an opportunity of seeing 
country quite off the beaten 
track, though post-stations exist 
all along the route where ac- 
commodation can be obtained 
and horses hired.] 

A railway is under construction 
to Soya, the extreme northerly point 
of the island. It is completed (end 
of 1912) to Otoineppo, S0\- m., and 
when it reaches Wakkanai will form 
the main route to Karafuto. 

From Asahi-gawa, the main line 
turns south, and after passing over 
an open plain, crosses the water- 
shed into the valley of the Sorachi- 
gawa. On the r. rises the long 
range of Yubari-yama with its 
jagged peaks, affording a succession 
of fine views. Between Kanayama 
and Ochiai, the river runs in a deep 
gorge, and the line is at a consider- 
able height above the water. After 
passing Shinnai, the line crosses the 
divide between the Ishikari and 
Tokachi plains in a tunnel at a 
level of about 3,000 ft., on emerging 
from which a splendid view of the 
latter plain extends over 40 miles. 
In order to reach the level of the 
Tokachi river, the railway descends 
by two great double loops, partly 
hidden in snow-sheds. 

Obihiro (Inn, Kasai-kwan) is the 
only inland town of any importance 
in the Tokachi plain. 

Ikeda Junction. 

[A branch line connects with 
Abashiri (Inn, Miura-ya) on the 
east coast, 120 miles in length. 
It follows the course of the 
Ashoro-gawa, affording pretty 
views of the volcano of Me- 
Akan. At Notsukeushi, the line 
enters the Kitami plain, whence 
comes most of the peppermint 
produced in Japan. At Hi- 
ushinai, the line diverges r. to 
reach the valley of the Abashiri- 



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516 



Route 82.— The South-East Coast. 



gawa at Mihoro, and follows 
this river down to the sea. 

The chief excursion from 
Abashiri is to Sancho-zan, 4 m., 
from the top of which there is 
an excellent view of Lake 
Abashiri, the Nottoro Lagoon, 
the Abashiri river, and the town 
with the sea in the distance. 

There is a cross-country road 
from Abashiri to Kushiro via 
the volcano of Atosa-nohori or 
Iwo-san, that is "Sulphur 
Mountain." Accommodation 
may be found at Shibetcha and 
Toro. This district contains 
the spa of Seishikaga, where 
there is also accommodation, 
and a lake called Kucharo, 12 ri 
in circumference, with some 
islands having other hot 
springs. The lake is deep and 
clear, and affords good fishing. 
Near Toro lies a second lake, 
6 ri in circumference. The 
following is the Itinerary : 

ABASHIRI to:— Ri Gho M. 

Koshimizu 7 9 17| 

Nogawa 3 28 9 J 

Atosa-nobori 3 27 9 \ 

Shibetcha 11 34 29J 

Tdro 5 22 13J 

KUSHIEO 6 26 16J 

Total 39 2 95J] 



Beyond Iked a, the line closely 
follows the Tokachi-gawa for some 
distance. At Atsunai, it bends N.E. 
along the coast to 

Kushiro (Inns, Fuji-ya, Tori-ya), 
at the mouth of the Kusuri-gawa, 
a busy place with good shops. Fine 
views are here obtained of O-Akan 
and Me-Akan, two high mountains 
to the north. 

At no other place in Yezo are so many 
relics of the stone age to be found as at 
Kushiro. The hills in the neighbourhood 
are covered with hundreds of dwellings, 
which are attributed by some inves- 
tigators to the Koropok-guru, a race be- 
lieved by them to have inhabited Yezo 
before the Ainos. Several camps — or 
what have been considered such— are 



seen on the crests of the hills, as also two 
or three well-formed earthen forts, one 
called Moshiriya near the river, and the 
others at Lake Harutori, about 2 m. from 
the town, where likewise stands a modern 
Aino village. 



BOUTE 82. 



The South-East Coast and the 

SoUTHEEN KUEILES. 

1. KUSHIEO, AKKESHI, NEMUEO. 2. 
THE KUEILES. 

During the summer and autumn, 
the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha runs 
steamers up the S.E. Coast of Yezo, 
and there are also steamers be- 
longing to smaller companies. Oc- 
casional steam communication is 
kept up with Kunashiri and Iterup. 
The chief ports visited are Kushiro, 
Akkeshi, and Nemuro. For 

Kushiro, see above. 

Akkeshi (Inns, Oizumi-kwan, 
Chugenji) is noted for its oysters, 
there being whole reefs entirely 
composed of these molluscs. Ak- 
keshi has an outer and an inner 
bay, the former for steamers and 
large craft, the latter, which is some 
10 m, in circumference, for smaller 
vessels. 

The coast between Akkeshi and 
Nemuro is remarkable for the per- 
sistently tabular aspect of the main- 
land and of the islands near it. Of 
the latter, the chief are: 1. Yururi, 
r. Takashima and Ko-Takashima, 
mere low ledges of rock. The high 
far-off mountains to the 1. are Me- 
Akan, O-Akan, the snow-sprinkled 
ranges of Menashi-yama and O- 
Menashi-yama, and ahead Eausu- 
zan and Chacha-nobori in the island 
of Kunashiri. 

Nemuro (Inns , Yamagata, Suzu- 
ki) is a thriving town, the centre of 



The Kurile Islands. 



517 



the crab fishing industry, and pos- 
sesses an agricultural college and 
a public garden, whence the dis- 
tant mountains of Kunashiri can 
be seen to the r. The harbour is 
good, but freezes over completely 
in winter. 

2. — The Ktjeile Islands. 

The Kuriles, of which Kunashiri and 
Iterup are the two southernmost, derive 
their name from the Russian word Tcurity, 
" to smoke," in allusion to the numerous 
volcanoes which they contain, and stretch 
N. E. and S. W. all the way from Yezo 
to Kamchatka. The Japanese name is 
Chishima or '■ the Thousand Isles." 
Originally inhabited by a shifting popu- 
lation of Ainos and perhaps men of 
some other barbarous race, the Kuriles at- 
tracted the cupidity of the Cossacks who 
conquered Kamchatka at the end of the 
17th century. At that time the islands 
swarmed with fur-bearing animals, now 
ruthlessly hunted to the verge of extinc- 
tion. Gradually the whole group passed 
under Russian sway, though the Govern- 
ment of Yedo always asserted its rights to 
the southermost portion of the chain. 
At last, by the treaty of St. Petersburg, 
concluded in 1875, the Kuriles were 
formally ceded by Russia to Japan, in 
exchange for the far more valuable 
territory of southern Saghalien, which 
till then had been claimed as a Japanese 
possession. 

From Notsuki-no-saki, the head- 
land stretching N.W. of Nemuro, 
to Toraari, the nearest port in 
Kunashiri, is a distance of 3 ri. 
Ftohi Nemuro it takes some 5 hrs. 
to reach the hamlet of Bausu, 
prettily situated on the sea-shore, 
3J m. to the E. of the solfataras, to 
work which is the object of having 
an establishment in this place. 
This part of the island is thickly 
wooded with conifers of various 
species, while ferns and flowering 
plants form the undergrowth. 
Bear abound. From a clearing in 
the forest we get a beautiful 
glimpse of the singularly shaped 
Chacha-nohori (7,900 ft.), a cone 
within a cone, the inner and higher 
of the two being — so the natives 
say — surrounded by a lake, while 
away to the N.E. the sulphur is 
seen boiling up at four distinct 



siDots on the flank of Rausu-mn. 
There are also several hot springs 
and a hot stream. One of these 
springs bubbles up on the beach, 
near the little settlement. At 
Ichibishinai, on the \Y. coast of the 
island, is a boiling lake called 
Ponto, which deposits on its bed 
and around its shores what appears 
to be fine black sand, but is 
practically nearly pure sulphur. 
The water of the lake has an ex- 
tremely acid flavour. 

The chief port of Iterup, called 
Staten Island by the old Dutch 
cartographers, is Shana, on the N.W- 
side, a small village but affording 
fair accommodation. Excellent 
trout fishing is to be obtained on 
the Shana river. A road leads 
hence to Rubetsu at the N.E. ex- 
tremity, about 65 m. distant, and 
there is also a road in the opposite 
direction for 50 m. Horses can be 
obtained for the greater part of 
these journeys. The interior of 
Iterup is all dense forest, which can 
only be penetrated by following up 
the watercourses, in which a few 
roads have been cut. There are 
some hot springs on the island, 
but without accommodation. The 
streams are alive with salmon from 
August to December, and bear are 
plentiful. 



ROUTE 83. 



The Island of Saghalien. 

(Qf, General Map.) 

An expedition made by the Japanese 
early in the seventeenth century first 
made known the existence of Saghalien 
or, more strictly, of its southern portion 
called by the Aino aborigines Karafuto. 
Not long after, it was visited by the 
famous Dutch navigator, Martin Vries. 
Accounts, more or less accurate, of the 



518 



Route 83. — The Island of Saghalien. 



island and its inhabitants came from 
certain Jesuit explorers sent out from the 
Chinese Court a century later. But it 
was the Japanese, another hundred years 
afterwards, who first circumnavigated it, 
though the fact of its insularity was not 
then disclosed to the world, as the British 
fleet found to their cost in the operations 
against Russia in 1855. 

Russian descents upon Saghalien began 
in 1825, down to which date the Japanese 
alone had made any claim to ownership. 
As a result of Japan's political weakness 
at that period, the southern half of the 
island was ceded to Russia in 1875 in ex- 
change for the Kuriles, as already men- 
tioned on p. 517. The Treaty following 
the Russo-Japanese war of 1904-5 restored 
to Japan the portion south of the 50th 
degree N. lat., with an area of approxi- 
mately 12,000 square miles. About three- 
fifths of the island remain in Russian 
hands. 

The best English book on Saghalien is 
Hawes's In the Uttermost East. 

Broadly speaking, Saghalien 
resembles Yezo in its natural 
features; dense forests of birch, 
larch, spruce, and other trees coyer 
the greater part, but are frequently 
devastated by fires. The chief river 
in southern Saghalien is the Suzuya, 
having its source near Korsakoff and 
falling into Ohitose Bay; most of 
the other streams are short torrents. 
A backbone of mountains runs from 
N. to S., the highest point reaching 
an elevation of some 5,000 ft. Wild 
beasts abound, the commonest being 
the brown bear and the fox. A 
considerable trade is carried on in 
the fur of the otter, sable, and 
other animals. 

The climate is rigorous, the 
temperature sometimes falling to 
-50° Fahr., while the short sum- 
mers are apt to be hot. For over 
half the year the land lies under 
snow, and dense fogs envelope the 
coast-line. All communication by 
sea is practically cut off from 
November to May. 

The aborigines, who are said to 
number about 5,000, consist of 
Gilyaks, Ainos, Orotchons, and a 
few TuDgus. 



The Kussian Government es- 
tablished penal colonies, chiefly at 
Alexandrovsk and Korsakoff, which 
received the worst class of criminals. 
Agriculture on a small scale was 
started by these convicts ; also the 
rearing of horses and cattle. Coal, 
too, was found; but the principal 
source of wealth at present is the 
herring and salmon fisheries. 

The Japanese have established 
their capital at Toyohara 
(Vladimirofka) which stands in a 
large and fertile plain to the north 
of Korsakoff (Kushun-kotan), the 
seat of the former Russian adminis- 
tration. A line of railway 25 miles in 
length connects the two towns, and 
extends to Sakaehama, on the east 
coast. Another place of some im- 
portance is Mauka, on the west 
coast, which possesses the advan- 
tage of a harbour almost free from 
ice. The river Suzuya still forms 
the chief means of transport and 
travel in the interior, there being as 
yet no roads, except one connecting 
Korsakoff with Cape Notoro, 35 ri 
in length, and another between 
Toyohara and Mauka. 

Communication is maintained 
with Korsakoff by steamers of the 
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, which leave 
Hakodate three times monthly, and 
take (calling at Otaru, etc.) 3 days 
to make the passage. 

Besides restoring to Saghalien its 
old Aino name of Karafuto (oc- 
casionally pronounced Kabafuto), 
the Japanese have renamed the 
following important localities : — 
Straits of Tartary (Mamiya Kai- 
kyb), Amur Gulf (Kita Mamiya Kai- 
kyd), Aniwa Bay (Higashi-Fushimi 
Wan), Lososi Bay (Chitose Wan), 
Patience Bay (Shichiro Wan), 
Endma Point {Tsushima Misaki), 
Cape Notoro (Kondo Misaki), Cape 
Aniwa (Juzb Misaki), Cape Patience 
[Kalaoka Misaki), Robben Island 
(Kaihyo-to). 



SECTION VIII. 

THE IZU AND BONIN ISLANDS. 

LUCHU AND FORMOSA. 

(Routes 84—86. 



Route 84. — The Izu and Bonin Islands. 



521 



KOUTE 84 



The Seven Isles op Izu and 
the Bonin Islands. 

1. vrd3s island. 2. hachijo. 3. 
the bonins. 

1. — Yeies Island. 

Vries Island, called Izu no 0- 
shima by the Japanese, is the largest 
and most accessible of the Izu no 
Shichi-to, or Seven Isles of Izu, 
which stretch away for 120 m.ina 
southerly direction from near the 
entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. 
N. Its greatest length is 10 m. ; its 
breadth, 5J m. The ever-smoking 
volcano on Yries Island is sighted 
by all ships bound for Yokohama. 
The names of the other six islands 
are Toshima, JS'iijima, Kozushima, 
Miyake, Mikura, and Hachijo. 
These afford no accommodation for 
the traveller and the communica- 
tion by small post-boats from Tokyo 
is both infrequent and poor. 

In ancient days Eastern Japan, then 
semi-barbarous, was used as a place of 
banishment for criminals expelled from 
the central part of the empire, that is 
to say, Nara, Kyoto, and their environs, 
where the Mikado held his Court. When 
the mainland of E. Japan became civil- 
ised, the islands alone continued to be 
used as convict settlements, and they 
retained this character till quite recent 
times. There were exiles living on Vries 
as late as the end of the 18th century, but 
the most famous of all was the archer 
Tametomo, (see p. 85). The current 
European name of Vries Island is derived 
from that of Caj)tain Martin Gerritsz 
Vries, a Dutch navigator, who visited it 
in 1613. Vries Island was noted until 
recent years for its peculiar dialect, and 
for the retention of curious old customs. 
Tew remnants of these now survive, 
except the coiffure of the women and 
their habit of carrying loads on the head. 

A steamer plies about every fourth 
day, weather_ permitting, between 
Tokyo and Oshima. A post boat 
also runs daily between It 6 in Izu 
(see p. 157) and Motomura, a dis- 



tance of 23 miles. The best season 
for the trip is early spring, the next 
best being winter. 

There are six villages on the 
island, all situated on the coast, 
and named respectively Motomura, 
Nomashi, Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, 
and Okada. Of these, Motomura 
(Inns, Mihara-kwan, Chiy6-ya) is 
the best to stop at, whilst Habu 
(Inn, Tatami-ya) has the advantage 
of possessing a picturesque little 
harbour, — the submerged crater of 
an ancient volcano. There are a 
few rough carts and some pack- 
horses. The distances along the 
path connecting the villages are 
approximately as follows : — 

Bi Clio 31. 

Senzu to Okada 1 — 2 J 

Okada to Motomura ...lj — 3f 

Motomura to Nomashi! 20 1 J 

Nomashi to Sashikiji... 2 J — 6 

Sashikij i to Habu 19 1 J 

For the most part, the road runs 
at some distance from the coast, 
which it only rejoins on nearing 
the villages. The way usually lies 
through a low wood of camellia, 
skimmia, and other evergreens, and 
sometimes, as for instance between 
Motomura and Nomashi, along a 
fern-clad dell. Pheasant and 
woodcock abound. Cows are kept 
for the manufacture of butter and 
condensed milk, and the calves are 
slaughtered for food. 

There is no road round the E. 
coast from Habu to Senzu ; but the 
distance is approximately 5 ri. The 
way leads over the desolate slope 
of the volcano which occupies the 
whole centre of the island. 

The name of this volcano is 
Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. Smoke 
perpetually issues from its summit, 
and it is subject to frequent erup- 
tions. The nearest point on the 
coast to the summit is Nomashi, 
but the ascent should be undertaken 
from Motomura. The climb requires 
abt 2 hrs., and the whole expedition 
can be made during a forenoon. 



522 



Route 84 — The Izu and Bonin Islands. 



Passing through the village, the 
ascent leads for the first hour 
through a wood, and then emerges 
on to volcanic scoriae. The emin- 
ence seen ahead to the 1. and called 
Kagami-bata, is not the summit of 
the mountain, but only a portion of 
the wall of an enormous ancient 
crater, in the midst of which stands 
the present cone, with its smaller 
though still considerable dimen- 
sions. We now enter the floor of 
the crater which here forms a level 
waste of stones and scoriae, broken, 
towards the east, by extensive 
lava-flows. The diameter of this 
crater-ring, which is complete 
save on the S.W. and the N.E., is 
about 2 miles ; the encircling cliffs, 
against whose sides the sand is 
piled up, attain in places a height 
of 200 ft. A I hr. walk across this 
desolate expanse brings us to the 
foot of the present cone. To the 
r. at a gap in the old crater wall 
about 1J m. south of the point 
where the path from Motomura 
strikes it, stands a torii. 

The ascent of the cone may be 
accomplished in 20 min. The active 
crater, which ranks among the finest 
in Japan, has a width of ^ m. and a 
depth of about 150 ft. From the top 
there is a fine view. To the S., are 
the other islands and islets of the 
Izu group, the curious pyramidal 
Toshima, with Shikine and Kozu 
behind; to the 1. of Toshima the 
longer and lower outline of Niijima, 
with little Udome in front. To the 
1. again, but considerably more 
distant, are the larger islands of 
Miyake, and Mikura, while on ex- 
ceptionally clear days the outline 
of Hachijo can be descried. To the 
W. are seen Amagi-san and other 
portions of the peninsula of Izu, 
tha towering cone of Euji,_ with 
the lesser Hakone and Oyama 
ranges ; to the N. Misaki in Sagami ; 
to the E. and N.E. the mountains of 
Kazusa and Boshu show up finely. 

Mihara may also be ascended in 
4 to 5 hrs. from Habu or from 
Senzu, the climb on that side of the 



island being, however, much longer 
and more difficult. 

An interesting excursion, up the 
mountain-side, 1J hrs. from Moto- 
mura, is to the vapour spring of 
Yuba. This spring is resorted to 
in cases of wounds and bruises. 

Fuiago-yama, the double-crested 
mountain whose red hue caused by 
the presence of brittle lava is so 
conspicuous from Habu, is a mere 
spur of Mihara-yama and affords no 
special interest. 

2. — Hachijo. 

Steamers run monthly between 
Yokohama, Hachijo, and the two 
main islands of the Bonin group. 
Once a year, in summer, the boat 
calls at various others of the long 
chain of green isles and barren 
rocks that stretch almost in a 
straight line from Yries to the 
Volcano Islands. Japan claims 
jurisdiction over all these, as well 
as over Shin-Torishima or Marcus 
Island, in lat. 24° 14' N., and 154° 
E. long, about 650 miles E.S.E. of 
Haha-jima. 

Hachijo, miscalled Fatsizio on English 
charts, is the southernmost of the group 
known as the " Seven Isles of Izu." 
Legend avers that the original inhabi- 
tants were Chinese, who accompanied the 
expedition of Shin-no-Jofuku (see p. 378) 
to search for the elixir of life. Another 
widely known tale, often depicted in art, 
credits Hachijo with having been ex- 
clusively tenanted by women, whose hus- 
bands were relegated to the island of Ao- 
ga-shima, or Oni-ga-shima (" the Demons' 
Isle"), 40 m. to the south, and w T ere only 
permitted to visit their wives once a 
year, when the sea-god caused a south 
wind to blow. The boys born of these 
hasty unions were sent away to live with 
their fathers, while the girls remained 
with their mothers. Plain history says 
that Hachijo was discovered by the Japa- 
nese in A.D. 1487. 

The natives speak a patois, which re- 
tains certain peculiarities current in the 
speech of Eastern Japan four or five 
centuries ago. They cultivate the soil 
wherever possible, but do little fishing; 
they also produce, in small quantities, 
a fabric known as Hachijo tsumugi. The 
women wear a loose gown tied with a 
narrow girdle in front ; their long luxuri- 
ant hair is coiled on the top of the head 



Hachijo. Bonin Islands. 



523 



in a double knot, and secured by a band 
of white paper. The staple food is the 
sweet potato. Cattle of a diminutive 
breed form the sole means of transport, 
and furnish a rough amusement to the 
islanders by a peculiar kind of bull-fight, 
which, however, has none of the brutality 
of the Spanish sport. Two bulls are led 
into a ring of spectators, and gradually 
allowed to approach head to head. Then 
follows a pushing contest of brute 
strength. Victory is declared by the 
weaker being pushed outside the ring, or 
a throw may occur by the two pairs of 
horns becoming interlocked. It is a rare 
thing for the bulls or the men leading 
them to sustain any serious injuries. 

Hachijd is about 12 m. long by 
4 m. broad. The southern half 
consists of a series of steep ridges 
some 2,300 ft, high, while the N.W. 
end rises into an extinct volcanic 
peak,— Hachijd Fuji, 2,840 ft. A 
narrow cultivated valley running 
E. and W. separates these two 
mountains, which are densely 
wooded. The aspect is picturesque 
from the sea, which is here of a 
deep indigo blue, owing to the 
Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf -stream. 
Sheer walls of rock, and the contort- 
ed ends of lava streams, surround 
the island almost completely. 
Though there are no harbours, fair 
anchorages exist on the E. s_ide at 
Mitsune, and on the W. at Okago, 
where stand the government offices. 
No regular inns have yet been 
established, but rough accommoda- 
tion may be obtained at some 
of the peasants' dwellings. The 
houses on the E. side of the island 
are enclosed by dykes of lava, 
those on the W. by large boulders. 
Store-houses are attached, which are 
raised from the ground on wooden 
supports to ward off the depreda- 
tions of rats. 

The walk from Mitsune to Okago 
— from sea to sea — occupies about 
1 hr. But half a day during the 
vessel's stay would be best spent 
in making the ascent of the local 
Fuji, a steep climb of some 2J hrs. 
from Mitsune. The open paths 
should everywhere be followed, as 
a poisonous species of snake (habu) 
abounds. There is a crater on the 



summit, about J m. in diameter, in 
whose centre rises a circular plateau 
dotted with pools of water, where 
the cattle that graze on the moun- 
tain slope come to drink. Rough 
paths lead over to three other 
villages lying on the E. and S.W. 
sides of the southern mountain 
group. 

3. — The Bonin Islands. 

The Bonin Islands consist of 
three distinct groups, lying between 
the parallels of 26 c 30' and 27°45' 
N. Lat. They are of volcanic origin, 
with a fringe of coral. The most 
northerly cluster was called Parry's 
Group by Oapt. Beechey, R.N., 
who visited the Bonins in 1827, and 
named the principal islands. The 
central and largest group includes 
Ototo-jima (Stapleton I.), Ani-jima 
(Buckland I.), and Chichi- jima (Peel 
I.), while the biggest member of 
the southernmost cluster (Coffin 
or Bailey I.) is now known as 
Haha-jima. This last lies 580 m. 
due S. of Yokohama. The Japanese 
names are given on an original 
system: — Chichi-jima, which means 
"Father Island," has near it the 
Islands of the Eider and the 
Younger Brothers (Ani and Ototo), 
while the islets round Haha-jima 
or "Mother Island" are termed 
" Sister," " Niece," etc., and the 
northernmost group includes the 
"Bridegroom," the "Bride," and 
even the " Match-maker." 

The Japanese claim to have discovered 
the Bonins in the latter part of the 16th 
century, and to have kept up fitful 
communication with them down to 1863, 
though formal possession was not taken 
until 1875. Their general name for the 
archipelago — Ogasawara-jima — is derived 
from that of the Daimyo whose followers 
discovered it. Our word "Bonin" is a 
corruption of Jap. Munin, which means 
" uninhabited." Some maps give another 
name, — Arzobispo,— which is derived from 
old Spanish charts. 

From 1827 onwards, the Bonins began 
to be inhabited by shipwrecked whalers 
and other waifs and strays from Hawaii 
and elsewhere, who brought Kanaka 



524 



Route 84. — The Izu and Bonin Islands. 



wives with them. These and their des- 
cendants, to the number of about 
seventy, formed the sole population till 
the advent of the Japanese, who now 
number nearly 6,000, and have founded a 
regular government, introducing schools, 
posts, roads, and other elements of civi- 
lisation. The half-caste settlers, who all 
speak English, remain on as Japanese 
subjects, undisturbed in their old hold- 
ings, and continue to live in cabins 
thatched with the leaves of the cabbage 
palm. Many of these men spend the 
summer months sealing in the North 
Pacific. Most of the children now attend 
the Japanese government schools. 

The most prosperous industry is the 
basket work made of the leaves of the 
Lohala palm (Jap. Tako-zaiku). Sugar 
is largely cultivated and pine-apples 
are canned for the Tokyo market. The 
vegetation is tropical and luxuriant, in- 
cluding bananas, lemons, and oranges. 
No snakes or other venomous reptiles 
exist, and but few birds or butterflies; 
but cockroaches and ants are everywhere 
a plague. A species of bat is found, 
measuring some 3 ft. from wing to wing. 
The sea swarms with sharks, and the 
coast is visited by large turtles which the 
men go out in canoes to catch. 

The route from. Haclrij5 to 
Chichi-jima, 395 m., lies out of the 
track of all sea-going vessels. 
Forty miles from Hachij5, Ao-ga- 
shima is passed, an island rising 
perpendicularly to a height of 
about 1,000 ft., and unapproachable 
during the greater part of the year ; 
yet it has a considerable population. 
Omitting minor pinnacles and tur- 
rets of rock, mention may be 
made of Tori-shima, 1,170 ft. high, 
the scene of a terrible Yoicanic 
eruption in 1902, when the whole 
population of about 150 was over- 
whelmed. 

Passing Parry's Group, — a num- 
ber of fantastically jagged rocks, — 
and leaving Ototo and Ani-jima on 
the 1., the steamer enters the beau- 
tiful circular harbour of Chiclii- 
jima, formerly known as Port 
Lloyd, apparently the crater of an 
extinct volcano. Of the numerous 
abrupt hills, all thickly wooded, 
that rise on every side, the highest 
is Asahi-yama, 880 ft., at the E. or 
upper end of the harbour. Behind 
a stretch of yellow sand on the 
N.W. side, stands the vill. of Omura 



(passable inn), the seat of the local 
government. Most of the foreign 
settlers live at Okumura, a little to 
the N. E. On the opposite or S. 
side is Ogi-ura, the only other fair- 
sized village. Ferry-boats ply be- 
tween Omura and Ogi-ura, If m. 
A hilly path round the head of the 
harbour, about 3 m., connecting the 
two villages, affords a pretty walk. 
Other good, though hilly, roads lead 
across to various points, notably to 
Hatsune-ura, 2J m. on the E., and 
to Tatsumi-ura (Fitton Bay) on 
the S. E. From Miya-no^ama, or 
"Jack Williams," near Omura, a 
fine view is obtained of Ani-jima 
across the narrow strait. 

Weather permitting, pleasant ex- 
cursions may be made by canoe 
to Yagi-shima at the S.W. end of 
the harbour, and to Minami-jima, 
with its landlocked harbour, at the 
S.W. corner of the island. 

Haha-jima, 35 m. to the S. of 
Chichi-jima, is about 7 m. long by 
lj m. broad. It has no harbours. 
The steamer anchors some 2 m. off 
the vill. of Okimura, which lies in 
a shallow bight with a picturesque 
approach. It possesses no inns, 
but some fair shops. Though 
the island is hilly (highest point 
1,470 ft.) and rock-bound, its 
numerous valleys, well-adapted for 
sugar cultivation, make it the most 
flourishing of the whole archipelago. 
Cattle of a large breed find good 
grazing-ground in the southern 
part, and bull-fights are held similar 
to those described on p. 523. A 
hilly path, commanding a succes- 
sion of delightful views of distant 
islets, traverses Haha-jima from 
Kiiamura at the N. end to Okimura 
and on to Minami-saki at the S. 

Further details of the history of 
the Bonin Islands and of the early 
settlers there may be found in 
Capt. Beechey's Narrative, Com- 
modore Perry's Narrative, Yol. I. 
Chap. X, and in Yol. IY of the 
" Transactions of the Asiat. Soc. of 
Japan," 1876 (" A Visit to the Bonin 
Islands," by Eussell Kobertson). 



Route 85. — Luchu. 



525 



EOUTE 85 



Luchu* 

The Luchu Islands are inhabited 
by a race closely allied to the Japa- 
nese. They now form an integral 
part of the Japanese dominions, but 
are still only partially assimilated. 
In customs, language, climate, and 
scenery, they differ sufficiently 
from the rest of the Empire to be 
well worth a visit. From Novem- 
ber to May the climate is at its best, 
the thermometer ranging from 
about 55° to 70° Fahrenheit. Even 
in summer the heat is generally 
tempered by sea-breezes. Except 
in parts of Yaeyama, where 
malaria prevails, the climate of the 
group is salubrious. Three lines of 
steamers ply between the mainland 
and the islands, the best being 
the Osaka Shosen Kwaisha, which 
makes four trips each month. They 
start from Osaka at noon, Kobe the 
same day at 7 P. M., take 2 days to 
Kagoshima, whence 1 day to Ama- 
mi — Oshima, and 1 day more to 
Naha, in Okinawa. Including stop- 
pages, the voyage from Kobe 
occupies 6 days. The fare is Japa- 
nese, but simple European dishes 
can be furnished. There is steam 
communication with the further 
islands of the group, Miyako-jima 
and Yaeyama about four times each 
month, but the sailings are very 
irregular. 

The royal family of Luchu derived its 
origin from the semi-mythical -Japanese 
hero Tametomo (see p. 85), who is said 
to have allied himself with the daughter 
of a native chieftain, and to have over- 
thrown the previously ruling house. In 
the 15th century the Ming dynasty of 
China laid claim to the archipelago, and 
at the beginning of the 17th century it 
was conquered by the Japanese under the 
Daimyo of Satsuma, who permanently 



* For a fuller description of these isl- 
ands and their inhabitants, see the Jour- 
nal of the Royal Geographical Society for 
April, May, and June, 1805. 



annexed Amami-Oshima to his feudal 
domains, but left Great Luchu to a semi- 
independence. The Luchuans continued 
to pay tribute both to China and to Japan 
till the year 1879, when the king was 
brought captive to Tokyo, and the govern- 
ment re-organised as a Japanese prefec- 
ture under the name of Okinawa Ken. 
The name Luchu is_ pronounced Eyukyu 
by the Japanese, Duchu by the Luchuans 
themselves. To the double allegiance 
so long acknowledged by this little island 
realm, may be traced the mixture of 
Japanese and Chinese peculiarities in the 
manners and customs of its inhabitants. 
The language, though cognate to Japanese, 
is sufficiently distinct from it to render 
natives of the two countries mutually 
unintelligible. Japanese, however, is the 
lingua franca of the ports. 

There is a good inn (Ikebata) at 
Naze, the little port of Oshima, 
and two (Ikebata and Narahara) at 
Naha., the chief port of the island 
of Okinawa and the most nourishing 
place in the whole archipelago. 
Nago (Inn, Isshin-kwan) is the 
chief town in the north of Okinawa, 
and can be reached by small stea- 
mer daily from Naha in 5 hours. 
Elsewhere there are no regular inns 
in the islands. Officials, however, 
will assist travellers to secure 
lodgings, but bedding and food 
should be carried. The Luchans 
subsist largely on sweet potatoes; 
they also obtain a kind of sago from 
the pith of the Gycas revoruta, which 
grows in immense quantities. 

The Luchu Islands produce some 
special fabrics which are much 
esteemed by the Japanese. These 
are the Ryukyii-tsumugi (silk), the 
Satsuma-gasuri (cotton), the basho- 
fu or aka-bashb, made of the fibre 
of a tree closely allied to the 
banana, and especially the hoso- 
jofu (hemp). This latter comes 
from Miyako-jima, where the 
weaving and dyeing of a single 
piece (it-tan = 9J yds.) occupies as 
long as six months. Consequently 
only small quantities are manufac- 
tured, and prices are high, — from 
50 yen to 80 yen a piece. The 
Satsuma-gasuri, as its name serves 
to indicate, is often erroneously 
mistaken for a speciality of the 



526 



Route 86. — Formosa. 



province of Satsuma, whereas the 
stuff there fabricated is but an 
imitation of a Luchuan original 
(see p. 463). Luchn further pro- 
duces an ornamental variety of red 
lacquer (Byukyu-nuH) ; it is also 
made in black and inlaid with 
mother-of-pearl. The newest indus- 
try is the manufacture of hats from 
the leaves of a plant called adamba, 
which resemble the famous Panama 
hats. 

The following short excursions 
may be made from Naha : — 

1. To Shuri, the former capital, 
1 ri 11 oho by jinrikisha, over a fine 
road made of coral gravel. Here 
stands the castle of the former 
Luchuan Kings on the top of the 
highest of those many coral crags 
that form so striking a feature of 
the landscape throughout Southern 
Okinawa. The buildings are now 
used as a school. Most of the old 
mansions of the Luchuan nobles 
have been torn down, but those that 
remain are worth inspection. 

2. To Futemma, 4 ri by jinriki- 
sha, where there is a small cave 
with stalactites, containing a shrine 
dedicated to the goddess Kwannon. 
Near by is an agricultural school. 

3. To Iteman, 3 ri by jinrikisha, 
a fishing vill, to the south of Naha, 
where the scenery and the customs 
of the people differ from those to 
the north. 

4. Shikina-en is a pretty garden 
belonging to the family of the 
former king, which will be shown 
to visitors provided with a proper 
introduction. This is on the way 
to Yonabaru, where stands a large 
experimental sugar factory. 

The outlying islands (Saki-shima) 
of the Luchuan archipelago are 
of interest only to the botanist and 
naturalist. 



KOUTE 86. 



FORMOSA. 

1. GENERAL INFORMATION. 2. KE- 
LUNG, TAIHOKU, AND TAMSTJI. 

3. BY RAIL TO SOUTH FORMOSA. 

4. BY STEAMER ROUND THE COAST. 

5. MOUNT MORRISON AND MOUNT 
SYLVIA. 

1. — General Information. 

Formosa, called Taiwan by the 
Chinese and Japanese, is an island 
264 miles long by 60 to 80 miles 
broad, being roughly about half 
the size of Ireland, and lying be- 
tween 20°56' and 25 c 15' North 
latitude, and 120° and 122° East 
longitude. The Tropic of Cancer 
divides the island about the middle. 
The western coast is a low, alluvial 
plain, some 20 miles broad at its 
widest, settled by Chinese colonists, 
most of them from the neighbouring 
province of Fohkien, called Hoklos, 
the rest Hakkas from the province 
of Canton. The remainder of the 
country is mountainous, with the 
exception of the rich plain of Giran 
on the east coast and some highly 
fertile valleys in the neigbohurhood 
of Kwarenko and Pinan. The 
mountains are clothed with virgin 
forest, and scantily peopled by 
savage aborigines of Malay race, 
speaking many dialects mutually 
unintelligible, and often engaged in 
internecine strife. Some tribes are 
ardent hunters, others less so, ex- 
cept it be for human heads, as each 
young man — at any rate in the 
northern districts — is bound by 
custom to produce such a bloody 
trophy before he can marry. Oper- 
ations against the hostile tribes are 
being constantly conducted on an 
extensive scale and the guard line 
pushed forward. The work is one 
of great difficulty. Along the border, 
between the savages and the Chi- 
nese, live the Pepohoan or Shek-hoan 



■arOOe*gT3 J-iV^JLLL X\.KJUT3 tU .lYCeiUIJi* V IHi 



j jLiciDO, xi v c lxic; jl ryjj\jiv\ju/i(j Ol" DfltK-flUU7b 



General Information. 



527 



(Jap. Jukuban), semi-civilised nat- 
ives, or half-caste Chinese, who 
combine to some extent the customs 
of each. On a large portion of the 
east coast, the mountains rise 
abruptly from the sea, range above 
range, to a height of 7,000 ft., form- 
ing the highest cliff s in the world. 

The most valuable productions 
of Formosa are rice and sugar 
cultivated in the plains, tea in the 
north, and camphor which is 
obtained from the giant camphor- 
trees that grow in the forests of 
the north and centre. The banyan, 
the screw-pine, the areca palm, the 
banana, and the pine-apple charac- 
terise the plains. The mineral 
wealth of the island has not yet 
been systematically exploited; but 
coal and sulphur are worked to a 
limited extent in the north, and 
gold is obtained both by placer 
and quartz mining. Petroleum is 
known to exist. Salt is an 
important export. The climate in 
summer is hot, and in some districts 
very wet and malarious during 
certain seasons. The driest and 
best months in the north are Oc- 
tober, November, and the first half 
of December ; in the south, October 
to March. The mid-summer ty- 
phoons, for which these regions are 
notorious, are less to be feared in 
Formosa itself than on the adjacent 
seas, as most of them, deflected by 
the lofty mountain mass, either 
pass up through the Formosa Chan- 
nel, or else sweep to the N.E. over 
the islands of Botel Tobago and 
Samasana. 

Formosa seems to have been discover- 
ed about the beginning of the seventh 
century by the Chinese, who, however, 
did not permanently settle the western 
coast till eight or nine hundred years 
later. The first Europeans to sight it 
were the Portuguese, who bestowed on 
it the name of Formosa, that is, "the 
Beautiful," which has remained in general 
use ever since. The Dutch, the Spaniards, 
the English, and the Japanese all gained 
a temporary footing on the island in the 
seventeenth century. The most remark- 
able of the many adventurers in this 
remote corner of the Eastern seas was 



Koxinga(Kokusen-ya), the son of a Chinese 
pirate by a Japanese mother. He drove 
out the Europeans, and established a 
dynasty which lasted from 1662 to 1683, 
when it was subdued by the Manchu in- 
vaders who had recently seated them- 
selves on the throne of Peking ; and thus, 
for over two hundred years, Formosa was 
a part of the Chinese empire. 

The Japanese made a descent on the 
island in 1874, in order to punish the 
savages for the murder of some ship- 
wrecked Luchuan fishermen, — an astute 
stroke of policy which helped to substan- 
tiate the hitherto doubtful claim of Japan 
to the archipelago of Luchu. Formosa 
was ceded to Japan in 1895, at the conclu- 
sion of the victorious war with China. 

Those desirous of more particular de- 
tails are referred to Davidson's The Island 
of Formosa Past and Present, History, Peo- 
ple, Resources, and Commercial Prospects. 
There also exist works by the Bev. Dr. 
Gr. Mackay, Bev. J. Johnston, and Bev. 
W. Campbell giving much information, 
especially with regard to missions. 

A collection of weapons, ornaments, 
and wearing apparel of the head-hunting 
tribes and other aborigines of Formosa, 
may be seen at the Ueno Museum, Tokyo. 

The visitor will find good Jap- 
anese inns in nearly all places likely 
to be included in his itinerary. 

The western half and extreme 
north of Formosa are accessible to 
the tourist. The eastern half, which 
comprises that portion occupied by 
the savages, is practically closed to 
the traveller: — only a few of the 
border stations can be visited, and 
those only by special arrangement 
with the authorities. The scientific 
traveller will, however, find in this 
little explored island an exceptional 
field of research. 

The best season for visiting the 
Pescadore Islands is April and 
May; but their bare, low, wind- 
swept surface, affords little or no 
interest. 

The population (1912) of Formosa, 
chiefly Chinese, is 3,163,000. Of 
Japanese there are 110,000. The 
aborigines are believed to number 
about 122,000. 

Steam_communication is carried on 
by the Osaka Shosen Kwaisha and 
the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, — Kobe 
being the usual starting-point. The 
passage from Kobe to Keelung via 



528 



Route 86. — Formosa. 



Moji takes 4 days ; if various ports 
in Japan and the Lucira Islands are 
touched at, 6 or 7 days. There is 
also steam communication between 
the Formosan ports of Tamsui and 
the ports of Amoy, Swatow, and 
Hongkong. A regular service of 
steamers has been established right 
round the coast of the island, and 
also up and down the western coast, 
including the Pescadores ; but they 
have an unpleasant way of starting 
at night, and of passing the most 
picturesque spots also during the 
night, 

2. — Keelung, Taihoku, Hoeuto 

sulphuk speings, and 

Tamsui. 

Keelung 1 , Jap. Kiirun, (Inn, 
Shimokura) is beautifully situated 
a little to the E. of the northern 
extremity of Formosa, on the shores 
of a deep bay backed by a mountain 
range. It is the chief port on the 
island, — the only one in fact that 
can now be entered by large 
steamers. The scenery gains charm 
from the wealth of feathery bamboos 
all around, and from an islet in the 
centre of the bay. This latter, called 
Palm Island by the European 
residents, has some curious rocks. 
There are gold mines in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

Taihoku (*Taiwan Railway 
Hotel, Europ. style) is reached in 
1 hr. from Keelung, by a line of 
railway passing through beautiful 
country. 

As the multiplicity of 'names given to 
this city and its suburbs is apt to cause 
confusion, the visitor should understand 
that Taihoku in Japanese and Taipeh in 
Chinese are merely different pronuncia- 
tions of the same ideographs. Taihoku 
(Taipeh) is properly the name of that 
I>art of the city which was formerly within 
the walls (now demolished, gateways only 
having been retained), and is now mainly 
occupied by the Japanese official class, 
the garrison, etc. The quarter outside, 
where the European settlers dwell, is 
called Twatutia (pronounced Daitotei by 
the Japanese). It stretches northward 
along the river Tamsui-yei, which flows 
down to the port of Tamsui, about 10 m. 



distant. There is yet another quarter of 
the capital, called Manka by the Japanese, 
Banka by the Chinese, inhabited by both 
nations, but with the Chinese, as usual, 
in the majority. 

The central railway station (quite 
close to the Hotel) stands near the 
north gate of Taihoku, and there is 
a suburban station at Daitotei, used 
as the terminus of the Tamsui 
branch. Taihoku is the chief city 
in the island and all the leading 
government institutions are quar- 
tered here. The public institutions 
deserving a visit are the camphor 
factory, where nearly all the world's 
supply of camphor is prepared (an- 
nual output about 7,000,000 lbs.), 
the opium factory, the Governor- 
General's Garden (special permit 
required), the Commercial Museum, 
the Botanical Gardens, the Ex- 
perimental Agricultural farm, the 
Waterworks, the Tobacco Monopoly 
building, the Gaol, etc. 

A few minutes by rail (\ hr. by 
jinrikisha), takes one to the Japanese 
park of Maruyama, and to the large 
shrine erected to the memory of the 
late Prince Kita-Shirakawa, who 
died in Formosa during the war 
of occupation. A beautiful view is 
to be obtained from the shrine. 

A pleasant day's excursion from 
Taihoku can be made to Kizan by 
taking push- car to Shinten, 7 J m., 
then on foot over some steep hills, 
commanding picturesque views to 
Kusshaku 2J m., where there is an 
Electric Power Station, and to Ki- 
zan, 2 m. The return may be made 
by the fine rapids of the Kusshaku 
river to Shinten in about 2 hrs. 
This trip can be extended to Urai, 
4 m., on the borders of the savage 
district amongst grand mountain 
scenery. Fine tree-ferns are found 
here. Push-car road from Kizan to 
Urai is under construction. Per- 
mission can be obtained from the 
Taihoku administration to stay at 
the Police Station. 

A line of railway, 13^ m. in 
length, runs down to the port of 



Hokuto. TamsuL Rail to the South. 



529 



Tamsui. At the half-way station of 
Hokuto (Shoto-en Hotel, Europ. 
style), are some sulphur springs. 
The gorge behind reeks with the 
fumes of numerous geysers, where 
the manufacture of sulphur may 
be seen. Further back in the hills 
are larger solfataras, besides two 
extinct craters. The Hokuto sul- 
phur pit, one hour's walk from 
the hotel, is a large circular cavity 
in the hills, one side being cut- 
away as if by the action of water, 
and at present furnishing a means 
of exit to the flow from numer- 
ous boiling springs. Geysers occur 
every few yards. A second, more 
extensive, pit is to be found at 
Hanrei-sho, situated about 1 m. be- 
yond the gorge described above, or 
1^ hr. from the hotel. It is an easy 
ascent to the top of Daiton (3,600 ft.) 
the highest mountain in northern 
Formosa. The old crater at the 
summit is now a lake. 

Tamsui (Inn, K6chi-ya), alter- 
natively known under the name 
of Hobe, is a beautifully situated, 
but uninteresting seaport town on 
the N.W. coast, with a bad harbour. 
Kicannon-yama, a striking hill, rises 
to a height of 2,000 ft, ; to the E. 
and N.E. are still loftier peaks, — 
over 3,500 ft. The British Consulate 
for Formosa is located here in the 
remains of a Dutch fort three cen- 
turies old, having walls more than 
6 ft. thick. 

3. — By Rail to South Formosa. 
From Keelung to Taeao. 





Names 
of 


Remarks 


■- — i. 


Principal Stations 




Miles KEELUNG 




18 


TAIHOKU 




23 


Pankyo 




3o 


Toen 




63^ 


SHIXCHIKU 




81 


Bvoritsu 




95i 


Sansaho 




no| 


Koroton 




X19 


TAICHU 





130 


SHOKA 


i For Horisha 


150 


Nihachi-sui 


J and Lake 
J Candidius, 
see below. 
( For Niitaka- 




Rinnai . . . . , 


\ yama, see p. 
( 532. 






161 


Toroku 




1801 


KAGI 


( For Ari-san 

( forests. 


218i 


TAINAN 


For An-ping. 


239 


Nanskiko 




247 


TAKAQ 





The traveller is advised to take 
the early morning train from 
Taihoku. 

Pankyo is noted for a fine 
typical Chinese residence, with a 
quaint garden. It stands a few 
min. walk from the station. Near 

Toen are some fine rapids on the 
Taiko-kan river. Push-car to Tai- 
k5-kan in 2 J hrs ; return by boat to 
Okaseki (the station before Toen) in 
3 hrs. Byoritsu lies 1} m. from its 
station. At Shukoku, 10 m. to the S. 
are some petroleum wells. The line 
between Sansaho and Koroton 
traverses mountainous country. 
There are nine tunnels, the 
longest being 4,166 ft.; and three 
wide rivers, the longest bridge, 1,663 
ft. 

Taichu is the largest city in 
Central Formosa. 

[An interesting excursion may be 
made to £ake Candidius 
(Jap. Jitsugetsu-kan), named 
after the first missionary to 
Formosa who visited it in 
1627. It lies 2400 ft. above sea 
level, is surrounded by mount- 
ains from 5 to 6000 ft. high and 
has a circumference of about 10 
m. Semi-civilized savages live 
around the lake and the house- 
boats used for fishing are of 
peculiar construction. The 
lake (native dug-out boats 
available) is 10 m. from Horisha 
(good inn) which can be reach- 
ed in one day from Nihachi-sui, 
see above,; by the light rail- 



530 



Route 86. — Formosa. 



way owned by the Chuwo Sugar 
Factory to Nama, and then by 
push-car to Shiishu (good inn) 
and Horisha. (The Chuwo line 
runs from Mhachi-sui to Nanto- 
gai via Nama.)] 

Shortly after leaving Nihachi-sui, 
the Dakusui-gawa, the largest river 
in Formosa, is crossed by a bridge 
2,917 ft. long. 

Hinnai. Niitaka-yama (Mount 
Morrison), see p. 532, can be ascend- 
ed from this station. The Mitsu- 
bishi Co. has here a large mill for 
making paper pulp from bamboo. 

Kagi was almost entirely destroy- 
ed by an earthquake on March 17, 
1906. It produces fine bamboo 
work. 

[An interesting journey may be 
made from Kagi to Ari-san 
(station, Nimandaira), 41 m. by 
the Government Bailway re- 
cently constructed for the pur- 
pose of exploiting the magnifi- 
cent primeval forest of cham- 
oecyparis and oak. From Kagi 
to Chikutoki, lm., the grade is 
1 in 50. (This portion of the 
line is open to public traffic ; 
for permission to travel further, 
enquire at Eailway Bureau or 
Government Offices, Taihoku.) 
From Chikutoki, Nimandaira is 
reached after a 32 m. zig-zag 
climb up the mountain to 
7000 ft., the grade being 1 in 
20. Between Kagi and Ari-san 
there are 70 bridges and 73 
tunnels. A large saw-mill has 
been erected at Kagi.] 
Between Tarimu and Takao are 
many sugar-mills equipped with 
modern machinery. The walled 
city of 

Tainan (Inns, Shishun-en, A- 
sahi-kwan), capital of Southern 
Formosa, is the largest place in 
the south, full of life and bustle, 
and has several fine temples, 
clubs, and guild-halls. Here, too, 
are the remains of an old Chinese 
fort. This city was formerly known 



as Taiwan-fu, and was the chief 
seat of the Chinese administration 
of Formosa until the year 1886, 
when it was removed to Taipeh 
(Taihoku). A few British mis- 
sionaries reside here. The shops of 
Tainan are interesting, especially 
those of the silver- workers. A small 
museum in T6-en Mongai contains 
stuffed zoological specimens, savage 
weapons, etc. 

[2 J miles from Tainan by push- 
car is the port of 

Anping (poor inn). The 
sea is here so shallow that ships 
have to lie two miles off, and 
the landing is so bad that 
passengers are conveyed ashore 
in what are called iekpai, — 
curved bamboo rafts about 5 ft. 
wide by 20 ft. long, provided 
with a wooden bath-tub in the 
middle, capable of seating two 
or three persons. Anping is 
an ugly place, surrounded by 
mud flats and salt water fish- 
ponds in which fish are bred 
for native consumption. Here 
stand the houses of a few 
European merchants engaged 
in the sugar trade. 

The ruins of Fort Zelandia, in the 
settlement of Anping, preserve the 
memory of Dutch rule in Formosa. 
Built in 1626, it was besieged and 
eventually taken by Koxinga in 1661. 
The site, owing to the gradual natural 
reclamation of the foreshore all 
along the western coast of Formosa, 
now stands about } mile further 
inland than it did in the time of the 
Dutch, when it seems to have been 
a small island.] 

Nanshiko. The prefectural 
town of Banshoryo, lies 17 h m. 
distant by push-car in a district 
famous for camphor and petroleum. 

Takao stands prettily on two 
sides of a large lagoon, connected 
with the sea by a narrow entrance. 
Extensive harbour improvements 
are in progress. From Takao a 
branch line runs via Hozan to 
Kyukyd-kudo, 10J m., through a 
district devoted to sugar and rice 
cultivation. 



By Steamer round the Coast. 



531 



4. — By Steamer round the 
Coast. 

The voyage round_Formosa by 
the steamers of the Osaka Shosen 
Kwaisha, calling at, the Pescadores, 
occupies 10 days. The Nippon 
Yusen Kwaisha also run a steamer 
between Keelung and Kwarenko. 

The first place touched at after 
leaving Keelung is Su-6, whence it 
is 17J miles on foot or in chair to 
Giran (Chin. Han). There are fair 
inns at both places, where colonies 
of Pepohoan can be visited." 

It is a little to the south of Su-5 
that begins the magnificent line of 
precipitous mountains, or rather 
cliffs, which, with few interruptions, 
characterise the E. coast of Formosa 
down to latitude 23°. The lower 
third of the total height of these 
mountains (5,000 ft. to 7,000 ft.) is 
almost perpendicular. All the rest, 
except on the sea face, is clothed 
from base to summit with the dens- 
est vegetation ; and the gigantic 
wall of rock is riven every few 
miles by huge gorges of unparalleled 
grandeur. 

Some 4 hrs. steam from Su-o 
brings one to Kwarenko (Jap. 
inns), standing on a part of the 
coast entirely occupied by friendly 
savages, who assist in getting the 
cargo ashore. The landing here 
is through the surf, and is too 
dangerous to undertake except in 
calm weather. 

The mouth of the Pinan river is 
the next place touched at, the town 
of Pinan (Jap. inns) lying a short 
distance inland. Another name for 
it is Taito. Here, too, the landing 
is through the surf. The savages 
who compose the bull?: of the popu- 
lation are friendly. A flourishing 
Japanese school for them deserves 
a visit. — A push-car railway — some 
90 m. in length — joins Kwarenko 
with Pinan, in advance of the con- 
struction of a light railway, about 
20 m. completed (1912). The way 



lies up a valley situated between 
the central mountain mass and 
the coast range. 

The lofty island of Botel Tobago 
(Jap. Koto-sho), which the steamer 
passes on the 1., is inhabited by 
a gentle, though uncivilised, race, 
having customs which strikingly 
diverge in many points from those 
of their Formosan neighbours. 
Their boats, high both in prow and 
stern, call for notice, as does the 
complicated construction of their 
dwelling-houses, which include, in 
different storeys, a sleeping-room 
and separate work-rooms for men 
and women, besides a store-house, 
a boat-house, and a look-out. The 
lower storey is partly subterranean. 

South Cape, with its fine light- 
house, is then rounded, and the 
steamer calls in at Nanvian (South 
Bay). 

The steamer then continues on 
to Taihan-roku, near Shajo, 5 or 
6 ri inland from which lies the 
territory of the Botansha tribe. 
Better accommodation than Shajo 
can afford, is found 2 ri off at 
the walled city of Koshrm (Chin. 
Heng-chun). Quantities of buffaloes 
are bred in this district. For 

Takao, etc., see previous section. 

The Pescadores (Jap. Hoko-to) 
are a small archipelago lying on 
either side of the Tropic of Cancer. 
The surface, chiefly of basaltic for- 
mation, is flat, and the soil poor, and 
the prevalence of violent N.E. winds 
for half the year prevents the growth 
of trees. Typhoons also exert their 
full fury in the Pescadores Channel, 
which is consequently littered with 
wrecks. The population is Chinese ; 
almost all are fishermen, whence 
the Spanish name of the archipelago, 
which has passed into general Euro- 
pean usage. 

From Anping to Makyu (Chin. 
Makung), the chief place in the 
archipelago with good accommo- 
dation, is a run of 5 or 6 hrs. by 
steamer. Any one alighting there 



532 



Route 86. — Formosa. 



would be obliged to remain on the 
islands for at least 10 days, until 
another steamer arrived. 

5. — Mount Moebison. Mount 
Sylvia. 

Mount Morrison, 13,840 ft., has 
rarely been ascended, owing to the 
want of paths through the virgin 
forest, the presence of the savages, 
and the superstitious objections 
raised by the latter. It is best reach- 
ed from the west coast at Binnai 
station and Einkiko (1J hr. by push 
car). Dr. S. Honda, of the Imperial 
Japanese Forestry Department, took 
12 days from Einkiho to the top of 
the mountain and back. Chinese 
porters were engaged — not without 
difficulty — at Einkiho, and all 
necessaries, of course, carried, 
nothing being met with on the 
way but two or three villages of 
the aborigines. The whole distance 
had to be done on foot, the absence 
of paths and bridges making riding 
impracticable. The first few days 
were heavy travelling along rocky 
river beds, and precipitous banks, 
through primeval forest of palms, 
banyans, cork-trees, and camphor- 
trees of enormous size, with tree- 
ferns and interlacing creepers, and 
here and there dense thickets of 
rattan, or long stretches of grass 
higher than a man's head; from 
6,000 ft. onward, gigantic crypto- 
merias and chamaecyparis ; at 7,000 
ft., pine-trees ; at 9,500 ft., a broad 
plateau, where the majestic summit 
came in view. A descent into the 
valley of the river Shinburo and 
then more alternations of forest and 
long grass up to the top, which 
consists of several small peaks, and 
commands a magnificent panorama 
of almost the whole island. 

Mount Morrison is not volcanic, 
though some very hot springs are 
met with on the way. It consists 
of argillaceous schist and quartzite, 
and is steepest on the N. side, 



least so on the S. Deer and boar 
abound. The Japanese have re- 
named Mount Morrison, calling it 
Nii-taka-yama, that is, the "New 
High Mountain," in allusion to the 
fact of this, the last to be added to 
the empire, being also the highest. 
It stands nearly under the Tropic 
of Cancer. No trace of snow was 
found there in the middle of 
November, though the temperature 
fell below freezing-point at night. 
The ascent should be attempted 
only in October and November or 
April and May, owing to the summer 
rains swelling the mountain streams. 
The idea entertained by the Chinese 
as to the existence of eternal snow 
on Mount Morrison is probably 
due to some conspicuous slabs 
of white quartz. The mountain 
is, however visible from compara- 
tively few places, owing to the high 
ranges that surround it. 

Mr. J. H. Arnold and party 
made a successful ascent of Mount 
Morrison in 1908 and returned 
through the forests of Ari-san to 
Kagi (see p. 530). The journey 
occupied from Oct. 28th till Nov. 6, 
the distance traversed being esti- 
mated at 170 miles. Details will 
be found in the Journal of the 
North- China Branch of the Boyal 
Asiatic Society, Yol. XL. 

Mount Sylvia, renamed Ses- 
san, or the "Snowy Mountain," 
is the second highest point of the 
island,— 11,470 ft. It lies in lati- 
tude 24°30' N. lat. and would 
probably be best ascended from the 
neighbourhood of Shinchiku. Rev. 
Dr. Mackay describes an attempt to 
make the ascent from Tamsui — 3 
days journey to the base— under the 
guidance of a friendly savage chief. 
It failed, owing to a superstitious 
notion of the latter, who, after the 
fashion of his people, going out to 
ascertain the divine will by listen- 
ing to the song of birds, found the 
augury unfavourable, and compelled 
the party to return, 



INDEX. 



(When there are several references, the most important is given first.) 



Abasbiri, 515. 
Abe-no-Sadato, 482,500. 
Abiko, 143. 
Aborigines, 516, 518, 

526. 
Abo-toge, 261. 
Abukuma-gaYwa, 478. 
Abuta, 514. 
Abuto, 403. 
Adams, Will, 106, 308, 

310, 451. 
Adatara-san, 478. 
Agano-gawa, 488. 
Agatsuma-gawa, 180, et 

pass. 
Agematsu, 256, 272. 
Ai-gaeri, 468. 
Aikawa (Matsushima), 

491. 
Aikawa (Sado), 250. 
Ainomura, 448. 
Amos, 506, 513 ; 85, 87, 

390,478,481,489,511, 

514, 516. 
Ai-no-take, 286. 
Aiya, 409. 
Aizen My 5- 6, 43. 
Aizu, 486. 
Aji-ga-sawa, 496. 
Ajina, 404. 
Ajiro, 157. 
Akabane, 112, 172. 
Akadake, 284. 
Akagawa, 507. 



Akagi-san, 183, 212. 
Akahito, 70. 
Akaishi-san, 288. 
Akajima, 380. 
Akakura (Ashio), 211; 

2C6. 
Akakura (Echigo), 247. 
Akama, 455. 
Akamatsu-toge, 473. 
Akanuma, 507. 
Akao, 289. 
Akasaka, 121. 
Akasaka-yama, 240. 
Akasawa (Hayakawa), 

284. 
AkasaTra-no-Iwa-goya, 

264, 265. 
Akashi, 305. 
Akashina, 253, 268. 
Akayu, 494. 
AM, proyince, 403. 
Akiha, 234, 312. 
Akita, 495, 499. 
Akiyoshi, 407. 
Akkeshi, 516. 
Akune, 466. 
Alpine Club, 267. 
Alpine plants, 163, 208, 

271,284,287. 
Amagi, 159. 
Aniagori, 416. 
Amakusa, 467. 
Amami-Oshirna, 525. 
Ama-no-Hashidate, 383. 
Ama-no-Iwato, 473. 
Ama-terasu, 43 ; 36, 300. 
Amatsu, 219. 



American influence, 1, 

61, 160, 318. 
Amida, 43, 83, et pass. 
Amida-gawa, 418. 
Amida-mine, 328. 
Amibari (Bikuchu), 483. 
Amura, 450. 
Anabara gorge, 479. 
Anan, 43. 
Ananai, 439. 
Anderson, Wm„ 43, 57, 

60, 83, 84, 357. 
Ani, 496. 
Ani-jima, 524. 
Anping, 520. 
Anshu-no-Bishamon, 

343. 
Antoku Tenno, 70, 

407. 
Ao, 456, 458, 471. 
Aoba-yama, 387. 
Ao-ga-shima, 522. 
Aomori, 485. 
Aone, 479. 
Aoyagi, 288. 
Aoyama, 121. 
Arai (Echigo), 247. 
Arai-yu, 184. 
Arakawa (Cbichibu), 

171. 
Arako-dani, 470! 
Aramaki, 480. 
Arase, 457. 

Arasbi-yama, 341 ; 321. 
Arayasu, 250. 
Arayu (Chikuzen), 455. 
Arayu (Shiobara), 214. 



534 



Index. 



AECmEOLOGY 


BAZAAKS 


BUBANDO YAKUSHI 


Archaeology, 100, 128, 


Ashiyasu, 285, 286. 


Beart, E. Fref. 


142, 410, 516. 


Ashoro-gawa, 515. 


Beechey, Capt., R. N., 


Architecture, 37, 40, 42, 


Asiatic Society of Japan, 


523. 


59, 115, 291, 296, 318, 


47, et pass. 


Befu, 306. 


331,355,358,362,461, 


Aso-san. 467. 


Belknap, Admiral, 500. 


494. 


Aston, W.G., 39,76,142, 


Bells, large, 10 i, 131, 


Ariake-san, 253. 


217. 


309,328,334,346,353, 


Arida, 374. 


Asuka-yama, 142. 


374. 


Arima (Hizen), 450. 


Atago (Fukuoka), 454. 


Benkei, 71, 346, 364, 379, 


Arima (Settsu), 304; 302. 


Atago (god), 43. 


481. 


Arimnra, 464. 


Atago (Kyoto), 343. 


Benten, goddess, 43, 105. 


Ari-san, 530. 


Atago (Tokyo), 121. 


Benten-daM, 181, 182. 


Arita, 452. 


Atami (Iwashiro). 485. 


Benzai-ten, 43. 


Arnold, J.H., 532. 


Atami (Izu), 156, 160. 


Beppu, 470; 397. 


Arsenals, 126, 383, 403, 


Atarahi, 382. 


Besshi, 433, 436. 


452. 


Atawa, 378. 


Bessho, 179. 


Art, 56, et pass. 


Atoda-gawa, 456. 


Bingo Nada, 395, 399. 


Art motives, 51, 52, 70, 


Atosa-nobori, 516. 


Binzuru, 44, 132. 


71, 73, 78, 79, 81, 83, 


Atsumori, 78. 


Bishamon, 44. 


85, 107, 230, 239, 293, 


Atsunai, 516. 


Black's Young Japan, 


300,306,344,374,378, 


Atsuta, 235, 239. 


110, 228. 


386,406,425,456,522. 


Avatars, divine, 36, 38, 


Blakiston, Capt. T. W., 


Arzobispo, 523. 


46. 


505. 


Asa, 407. 


Avenues, 192. 


Bqjfi, 468 ; 467. 


Asahi-dake (Uzen), 489. 


Awa, province, 423. 


Bonin Islands, 523 ; 3. 


Asahi-dake (Yezo), 515. 


Awaji, 408. 


Bonten, 44. 


Asahi-gawa, 515. 


Awashima, 399. 


Books on Japan, 2. 


Asahina (Boshu), 219. 


Awata, 335, 345. 


Boots, must be taken 


Asahina Sabur5, 70. 


Awazu, 389. 


off, 8, 14. 


Asahi-no-taki, 159. 


Ayabe, 383, 


Bosatsu, 44. 


Asahi-Onsen, 215. 


Azabu, 121. 


Boshu, 215. 


Asahi-yama, 524. 


Azaleas, 114, 141, 304, 


Botanical gardens, 126. 


Asakai, 189. 


378. 


Botel Tobago, 531. 


Asakawa (Awa), 440. 


Azuma (Yezo), 513. 


Bowes, J. L., 414. 


Asakawa (Musashi), 109, 


Azuma-yama, 479. 


Bozu-goya, 264, 265. 


141. 




Brahma, 44. 


Asakusa, 131. 


B 


Bridges, curious, 135, 


Asama (Ise), 301. 




194,278,325,330,406. 


Asama, spa, 253. 


Baba, 345 ; 241. 


Brinkley, Capt. F., 60, 


Asama-yama, 177, 244. 


Baelz, Dr. E., 185. 


353,354,453,461. 


Asamushi, 485. 


Bakin, 70. 


Buddha, see Shaka. 


Asano, family, 403. 


Bandai-san, 486. 


Buddhism, 39; 35, 38, 


Asegata-toge, 204, 205. 


Bange, 488. 


61, et pass. 


Ashikaga, dynasty, 319- 


Banks, 4 ; 3, et pass. 


Buju-t5ge, 375. 


20; 57,61, 62,72,81, 


Banshoryo, 530. 


Bukkyd-ga-take, 372. 


84. 


Banyu, river, 229. 


Buko-zan, 171. 


Ashikaga, town, 190. 


Barriers, 154, 222, 240. 


Bull-fights, 523. 


Ashikubo, 232. 


Basha, 10, et pass. 


Bungo Channel, 400, 


Ashikura, 269. 


Batchelor, Be v. John 


475. 


Ashi-no-yu, 149 ; 147. 


514. 


Bungo-Fuji, 471. 


Ashio, 211 ; 204. 


Baths, 14, et pass. 


Buno, 188. 


Ashitaka-yama, 170. 


Bazaars, 12. 


Burando Yakushi, 246. 



index. 



535 



BUSON 



Buson, 59, 339. 
Butoku-den, 336. 
Bydbu-ga-ura, 427. 
Byod5-in, 350. 
Byoritsu, 529. 



Campbell, Bev. W. W., 

527. 
Camphor-trees, 157, 300, 

370, 527. 
Cape Inuboe, 216. 
Cape Nojima, 218. 
Capital cities, 101, 111, 

115, 313, 351. 
Castles, 459 ; 222, 236, 

30S, 308, 311, 348, 359, 

402,404,414,424,426, 

430,437,459,478,480, 

526. 
Caves, 105, 107, 142, 158, 

169,171.190,277,402, 

407,413,456,461,473. 
Cemeteries, 367; 121, 

126, 337, 338, 463. 
Chadai, 6. 
Charms, 41, 236, 343, 

361. 
Cherry-blossoms, 364 ; 

8, 114, 127, 134, 140, 

142,314,319,320,321. 
Chiba, 216. 
Chiburi-shima. 417. 
Chichibu, 170. 
Chichi-jima, 523. 
Crrigura Onsen, 219. 
Chijiwa, 448. 
Chiji-yama, 447. 
Chikamatsu, 71,417. 
Chikatsuyu, 375. 
Chikubu-shima, 348. 
Chikuma-gawa, 244. 
Chikutoki, 530. 
China- Japan wars, 63 ; 

1, 234, 406, 527. 
Chinda, 469. 
Chinese influence, 61- 

2 ; 39, 56, et seq., 125, 

190,316,335,349,518, 

527 
Chino, 281, 284. 



Chion-in, 334. 
Chishaku-in, 327. 
Chishima, 517. 
Chita, 292. 
Chitenjo, 327. 
Chitose (Yezo), 512. 
Chiwara, 432. 
Chizuka, 275. 
Chd Densu, 57, 326, et 

pass. 
Ch5fu, 407. 
Chokai-zan, 498. 
Chonan, 218. 
.Choshi, 216. 
Choshu, province, 407. 
Ch5sokabe, 423. 
Christianity in Japan, 

88 ;1, 61, 74,128,310, 

318,337,389,407,445, 

446,447,450,467,474, 

514, 529. 
Chronological tables, 63. 
Chrysanthemums, 114, 

121, 125. 
Chfisonji, 481. 
Chuzenji, 204. 
Civil wars, 62, 72, 8 v 4, 

127, 143, 453. 
Climate, 7,372,382,388, 

390,404,408,409,413, 

423, 505, 518, 525, 527. 
Clothing, 7, 8. 
Cock, Capt, R., 451. 
Colour prints, 58. 
Confucius, 125, 191. 
Constitution, 62-3. 
Cook's Tourist Agency, 

3. 
Cormorant fishing, 1 40, 

239. 
Crape, 348. 
Crown Prince, 121. 
Crows, 293, 299, 376. 
Curios, 12. 
Currency, 4. 
Custom-house, 3, 12. 
Czar, 83. 

D 

Dai (Miyanoshita), 149, 
152. 



DOGASHIMA 

Daiba, 156. 

Daibutsu (Hyogo), 303. 

Daibutsu (Kamakura), 

103. 
Daibutsu (Kyoto), 327. 
Daibutsu (Nara), 353. 
Dai-ga-hara, 281, 288. 
Dai-ga-take, 152. 
Daigoji, 325. 
Daikoku, 44. 
Daimyos, 73, 115, 228. 
Dainichi Nyorai, 44. 
Dainichi-dake, 372. 
Dainichi-yama, 427. 
Daiseishi, 44. 
Daisen, 416. 
Daishaku, 483. 
Daishakuji, 170. 
Daishi, 44, 110. 
Daishoji, 389. 
Daitokuji, 319. 
Daiton, 529. 
Daitotei, 528. 
Daiya-gawa, 194, 201. 
Dakwa, 496. 
Dancing, 15, 36, 295, 

314, 334, 351, 513. 
Dangozaka, 126. 
Dan-no-ura, 407 ; 86. 
Daruma, 71. 
Dashiwara-dani, 267. 
Date, family, 71, 197, 

213, 437, 480. 
Daunt, H. E., Pref. 
Davidson, J. W., 527. 
Dazaifu, 454. 
" Death-stone," 215. 
De Benneville, 71. 
Deer, 351, 404, 491. 
Deguchi, 469. 
Dengyo Daishi, 71, 342, 

et pass. 
Deshima, 446. 
Diet (parliament), 62 ; 

3, 121. 
Distances, calculation 

of, 5, 11, 162, 445. 
Divers (female), 301. 
Dockyards, 106, 383. 
Dogashima (Izu), 158. 
Dogashima (Miyano- 

shita), 148. 



636 



Index. 



DOGO 


FfJDEN-ZAKA 


FUNATSU 


Dogo (Iyo), 431, 438. 


Ena-san, 272 ; 257. 


Fude-sute-matsu, 107, 


Dogo (Oki), 416. 


English influence, 109, 


312. 


Dogs, 296, 366. 


308. 


Fudo, god, 46, et pass. 


Doi, 434; 429. 


Enko Daishi, 71. 


Fugen, 46, 


D6j6ji, 374. 


Enkyo, 274. 


Fugen-dake, 449. 


Dolmens, 358, 407, 414. 


En-no-shokaku, 71, 371. 


Fuji, 160. 


Doro Hatcho, 377 ; 372. 


Enomoto, Admiral, 505. 


Fujieda, 232. 


Dorogawa, 365, 371. 


Enoshima, 104. 


Fujikawa, 277 ; 169. 


Dorotsuji, 371. 


Enoura Bay, 158. 


Fujimi, 281. 


Doryd-san, 152. 


Enzan, 277. 


Fujimi-toge, 203. 


Doshisha, 318. 


Esaki, 397. 


Fujimi-zaka, 176. 


Dosojin, 44. 


Esan, 508. 


Fujina, 414. 


Doves, 136. 


Esashi, 509, 510. 


Fuji-no-mori, 325. 


Dozan (Kamaishi), 501. 


Eshin, 59, 72. 


Fujisawa, 229 ; 104. 


Dozen, 416. 


Esumi, 382. 


Fujishiro, 222. 


Dragons, 133. 


Ma, 134. 


Fujishiro-saka, 374. 


Dramas, 71, 79, 134, 


Eta-jima, 403. 


Fujiwara, family, 72, 


213, 215, 230, 324, 


Etchu, 257, 388. 


482. 


374. 


Eto Shimpei, 453. 


Fujiwara, vill., 213. 


Dutch in Japan, 61, 


Europeanisation, 62 ; 1, 


Fukagawa, 135, 


228, 234, 331, 446, 


2, 6, 39, 59, 115, 125, 


Fukara, pass, 155. 


451, 517, 527, 530. 


462. 


Fukase-dani, 456. 


Dzuslii, 105. 


Expenses, 6, 7 ; 3. 


Fukaura, 496. 
Fuke, 311. 


E 


F 


Fukuchiyama, 386,419. 
Fukue, 474. 


Earthquakes, 62, 115, 


Festivals, 3, 113, 314 et 


Fukui, 389 ; 270. 


160, 417. 


pass. 


Fukuoka (Chikuzen), 


Ebetsu, 512. 


Feudalism, 61, 86. 


454. 


Ebi, 414. 


Fire-walking, 114, 123. 


Fukuoka (Nambu), 484. 


Ebisu, 44. 


Fishing, 13, 157-8, 204, 


Fukura, 411; 408. 


Ebisu-minato, 250. 


207, 210, 216, 239, 344, 


Fuku-roku-ju, 46. 


Eboshi-jima, 400. 


348,379,473,481,484, 


Fukuro-zaka, 258. 


Echigo, 188, 248, etpass. 


485,491,496,506,512, 


Fukushima (Iwashiro), 


Echizen, province, 388. 


517, 518. 


479, 492. 


Eigenji, 348. 


Fleas, 14. 


Fukushima (Shinshu), 


Eighty - eight Holy 


Floods, 9, 11, 373, 375. 


256, 271. 


Places (Shikoku), 437. 


Flowers, 8, 78, 114, 181, 


Fukushima (Yezo), 509 


Eikwando, 337. 


288, 349, 378. 


Fuku-ura, 498. 


Eino, 465. 


Food, 9, 11. 


Fukuwara, 76, 78, 302. 


Eishin, 59, 72. 


Foot-gear, 8. 


Fukuwata, 213. 


Ejiri (Suruga), 231. 


Formosa, 526. 


Fukuyama (Bingo), 402. 


Ejiri (Tango), 385. 


Fortune- telling, 125. 


Fukuyama (Matsumae). 


Ek5-in,134. 


Forestry, 255, 363. 


509 ; 505. 


Emi, 219. 


Forty-seven Eonins, 72, 


Fukuzaki, 412. 


Emma-O, 45, 360, 361. 


121. 


Funabashi, 216. 


Emperor, present, 3, 


Fowls (long-tailed), 437. 


Funagata, 494, 497. 


123. 


Fox-god, 47, 324. 


Funakawa, 495. 


Emperors, 61, 67, 316, 


Frescoes, 133. 


Funato (Awa), 436. 


et pass. 


Fnchizaki, 402. 


Funato (Uzen), 489. 


Empresses, 67, 123. 


Fu-Daishi, 45. 


Funatsu (Fuji), 168, 283. 


Emukai, 451. 


Fuden-zaka, 378. 


Funatsu (Hida), 259. 



indeti. 



53? 



FTTRUICHI 


GYOGI BOSATSU 


HAEAGAMA 


Furuiclii, 295. 


Geysers, 156, 448, 471, 


H 


Furukawa (Awa), 423. 


529. 




Furukawa (Hida), 259. 


Gifu, 239, 258. 


Habu (Yries), 521. 


Furukuchi, 497. 


Ginkaku-ji, 339. 


Hachi-hon-matsu, 397 4 


Furumachi, 214. 


Ginza, 124. 


Hachijo, 522. 


Furumaki, 484. 


Ginzan (OtaruFcy.), 511. 


Hachiman, god, 46. 


Furuseki, 169. 


Gion, 333 ; 54. 


Hachiman Taro, 73, 222, 


Furuyuki, 499. 


Giran, 531. 


489. 


Fusan, 3, 397. 


Glossary, 92. 


Eachiman-dake, 484. 


Fuse, 189. 


Go (game), 379. 


Hachi-no-he, 484, 500. 


Fushiki, 391 ; 247. 


Gobo, 374. 


Hachi-ri-Hatcho, 172. 


Fushimi, 349. 


Gochi, 248, 391. 


Hachioji, 141, 273. 


Futa-ara-yaina, 193. 


Go-chi Nyorai, 46. 


Hachiro-gata, 495. 


Futa-ba-yama, 404. 


Go-Daigo, emperor, 72, 


Hachisuka, family, 409, 


Futagawa, 235. 


365, et pass. 


423, 424. 


Futago, 139. 


Godo, 212. 


Hagi, 417 ; 397. 


Fntago-yama (Hakone), 


Gods and goddesses, 43 ; 


Hagure, 170. 


150; 147. 


36, et pass. 


Haguro-san, 498. 


Futaa, 189. 


Gofuku-bashi, 112. 


Haha-jima, 523. 


Futaniata (Tenryii), 289. 


Gojo, 365. 


Haiki, 452. 


Futamata (Yezo), 510. 


Go-ju-san Tsugi, 234. 


Hakata, 454 ; 397. 


Futami (Ise), 300. 


Goka-mura, 284. 


Hakii, 278. 


Futatabi-san, 304. 


Gokase-gawa, 473. 


Hakodate, 506. 


Futatsu-dake, 183. 


Gokasho, 472. 


Hakojima, 184, 189. 


Futatsu-ishi, 409. 


Go-ken-zan, 425. 


Hakone, 153 ; 146. 


Futsuka-ichi, 454. 


Gokokuji, 126. 


Hakozaki, 455. 




Golf-links, 100, 304, 448. 


Hakuba-san, 268 ; 257. 


G 


Goma, 383. 


Hakuchi, 446 ; 434, 440. 




Gomo, 304. 


Haku-san, 270 ; 257, 389. 


Gamada, 259, 262. 


Gompachi and Ko- 


Hamada, 417. 


Gamman, 201. 


murasaki, 137. 


Hamadera, 309. 


Gan-Etsu Railway, 485. 


Gongen, 46, 


Hamajima, 301. 


Ganju-san, 483. 


Gora, 149 ; 147. 


Hamamatsu, 235, 289. 


Ganku, 58. 


Gordon, E, L., Pref. 


Hamamura, 418. 


Garameki, 182. 


Go-roku-dake, 266. 


Hamana lagoon, 235. 


Garden parties, 8, 121, 


Goryd-kaku, 506. 


Hamano-miya, 379. 


136. 


Go-san-ke, 236, 311. 


Hamasaka, 413. 


Gardens, landscape, 85, 


Gosharamba, 487. 


Hamawake, 470. 


126, 222, 319, 323, 325, 


Gosho, 441. 


Hanamaki, 482. 


327,332,335,336,390, 


Gotemba, 164, 229 ; 161. 


Hana-no-iwaya, 380. 


402,404,426,437,459, 


Goto Islands, 474. 


Hanasaki-gawa, 274. 


463, 529. 


Goyo-zan, 501. 


Hanashiki, 186. 


Gates, 37, 40, 334. 


Goyu, 235. 


Hanawa, 212. 


Geishu, province, 403. 


Gozu Tenno, 54. 


Handa, 479. 


Geku, 296-9. 


Griffis, W.E., 80, 81. 


Haneda, 139. 


Gembudo, 413. 


Guides, 3. 


Haneo, 180. 


Genghis Khan, 87. 


Gunchu, 436. 


Hannya waterfall, 205. 


Genji Mono-gatari, 80, 


Gunge, 412; 408-9. 


Hanrei-sho, 529. 


306. 


Gwakko Bosatsu, 46. 


Hara (Hizen), 450. 


Genkai Nada, 455. 


Gwassari, 498; 494. 


Hara (Koshu), 284. 


German influence, 62. 


Gyogi Bosatsu, 72. 


Hara (Tokaido), 170. 


Gero, 258. 




Haragama, 223. 



538 



Index. 



HAEAKIBI 


HIBOSAKI 


HOSOKAWA 


Ifarakiri, 310, et pass. 


Higashi-Otani, 333. 


Hirose, 365. 


Haramachi, 185. 


Higashi-Tada, 436. 


Hiroshige, 59. 


Hara-nomachi, 223. 


Higashi-yama (Echigo), 


Hiroshima, 403, 417. 


Harima Nada, 395, 398. 


247. 


Hirota, 486. 


Karima, province, 306. 


Higashi-yama (Waka- 


Hirnma, 435. 


Harinoki-toge, 265. 


matsu), 486. 


History, 61, et pass. 


Harris, Townsend, 160. 


Hiino-Misaki, 243. 


Hita, 457, 469. 


Haruda, 454. 


Hijiyama-toge, 386. 


Hito-ana, 169; 161. 


Haruna, 182. 


Hikage-Chidori, 209. 


Hitomaro, 73, 306. 


Harunobn, 58. 


Hikata, 374. 


Hitoyoshi, 462. 


Hase, 360. 


Hikawa, 276 ; 172. 


Hiyori-yama, 300. 


Hasegawa-Onsen, 513. 


Hiketa, 425. 


Hiyoshi Jinja, 327. 


Hashidate-dera, 170. 


Hikida, 388. 


Hizume, 482. 


Hashide, 272. 


Hikone, 348 ; 240, 344. 


Hobe, 529. 


Hashikura-ji, 435 ; 434. 


Hiko-san, 457 ; 452. 


Hodaka-yama, 265 ; 257. 


Hassaki, 248. 


Eimegami-dake, 483. 


Hodd waterfall, 205. 


Hata (Hakone), 152-3. 


Hime-gawa, 391. 


Hoei-zan, 162. 


Hata (Tateshina), 283. 


Himeji, 306, 412, 419. 


Hofukuji-toge, 179. 


Hatahoko, 260-1. 


Himekawa, 267, 399. 


Hoido, 258. 


Hataori, 495. 


Himi-toge, 447. 


Hojd, 219. 


Hatcho Da5, 417. 


Hinagu, 461. 


Hojo Eegents, 73 ; 70, 


Hateba, 433. 


Hinata, 284. 


147, et pass. 


Hatsudoya, 179. 


Hinata-Chidori, 209. 


Hoki, province, 414. 


Hatsnshima, 157. 


Hinata-Wada, 141, 276. 


Hokkaido, 505. 


Hayachine-yama, 500. 


Hino, 140. 


Hokkoku Kaido, 247. 


Hayakawa (Hakone), 


Hinobaru, 281. 


Hokokn Jioja, 328. 


148. 


Hino-gawa, 418. 


Hokusai, 58. 


Hayakawa (Koshu), 284, 


Hinoki-t5ge, 261. 


Hokuto, 529. 


285. 


Hinoura, 451. 


Holidays, 3. 


Hayakita, 513. 


Hirado, 450; 401. 


Homura, 284, 


Hayama, 105. 


Hirafu, 510. 


Honda, Dr. S., 532. 


Hayatsuki-gawa, 391. 


Hiragana syllabary, 62, 


Hondo, 467. 


HayazaM (Omi), 348. 


77. 


Hongo (Yezo), 509, 510. 


Heda, 158. 


Hiragane, 261. 


Hongu, 376; 372, 373, 


Hegawa-kawa, 500. 


Hiragi, 426, 434. 


382. 


Heike family, 84. 


Hirai, 440. 


Hongwanji temples, 83 ; 


Hemi, 106. 


Hiraigo-gawa, 375. 


41,130,136,237, 309, 


Hibiya, 121. 


Hira-izumi, 481. 


328-30. 


Hida (Buzen), 458. 


Hirano Jinja, 319. 


Honjd, 499. 


Hida Kaido, 258. 


Hirano, spring, 305. 


Honzawa, 283. 


Hida, province, 257. 


Hiranuma, 99, 229. 


H6-o-zan, 287. 


Hida-gawa, 258. 


Hirasawa-Daimon-toge, 


Horie, 431. 


Hidari Jingoro, 59, 198, 


283. 


Horikiri, 134. 


237, 310, 322, 329. 


Hiratsuka, 229. 


Hori-no-uchi, 139. 


Hideyoshi, 73, et pass. 


Hirayama-no-Taki, 229. 


Horisha, 529. 


Hie, 51, 122. 


Hirayama-toge, 281. 


Horita, 471. 


Hiei-zan, 342 ; 82. 


Hirayu. 262 ; 259. 


Horobetsn, 514. 


Higane-zan, 156-7. 


Hirayu-toge, 263. 


Horses, 10, 37, 170, 215, 


Higashi Hongwanji 


Hirazawa, 499. 


247,478,483,484,496, 


(Tokyo), see Monzeki. 


Hire, 248. 


506,512,513,535. 


Higasni-Mozumi, 259. 


Hirono, 223. 


Horyuji, 355 ; 56. 


Higashi-Ogawa, 209. 


Hirosaki, 496. 


Hosokawa, 423. 



Index. 



539 



HOSO-NAGA 


ISHI-GA-SANJ5 


IZUMI-KAWA 


Hoso-naga, 473. 


Ikeka (Tenryu), 289. 


Isbii, 436. 


Hosono-mura, 268. 


Ikeda (Yezo), 515. 


Ishikake-yama, 147. 


Hosoo pass, 210 ; 204, 


Ikegami, 40, 81, 138. 


Ishikari, 515. 


206. 


Iki, 400 ; 397. 


Isbikawa Goemon, 74. 


Hota, 220 ; 219. 


Iknno, 412. 


Ishikoshi, 481. 


Kotei, 47. 


Bmshumbetsu, 512. 


Ishinden, 292. 


Hotels, 6, 7, et pass. 


Ikuta, 303. 


Ishi-no-maki, 492 ; 481. 


Hotoke, 47. 


Imabaii, 431 ; 429. 


Isbiyama-dera, 347. 


Kotoke-iwa, 200. 


Imaicbi (Bungo), 470. 


Ishizuchi-yama, 432. 


Hozan, 530. 


Imaichi (Izumo), 414. 


Iso, 463. 


Hozu, 341. 


Imaichi (Nikko), 192, 


Isobe, 173. 


Eyaku-saTva, 498. 


213, 214. 


Isobara, 222. 


Hyogo, 302. 


Imajo, 389. 


Isuzu-gawa, 300. 


Hydtaii-irama, 507. 


Imari, 453; 451. 


Itadome, 496. 


Hytiga, province, 473. 


Imazu, 387 ; 344. 


Itaya-toge, 493. 




Imori-toge, 375. 


Iterup, 517. 


1 


Inioyama, 363. 


Ito, 157, 160. 




Inamacbi, 289 ; 272. 


It5, prince, 75, 303. 


Ibuki-yama, 240. 


Ina Kaido, 289. 


Itoigawa, 391 ; 267. 


Iburi-haslii, 389. 


Inada Hime, 54. 


Itomi, 284. 


Ichiba (Bungo), 473. 


Inage, 216. 


Itsuku-shima, 405. 


Iebiba (Shinshu), 288. 


Inamura-ga-saki, 103. 


Iwabuchi, 230, 168, 278. 


ichiba (Tango), 387. 


Inari, god, 47, 324. 


Iwade, 370. 


IcMbiskinai, 517. 


Inari, station, 241. 


Iwabana, 204. 


Ichiburi, 388. 


Inari, temples of, 139, 


Iwahara, 268. 


Ichijo-daki, 389. 


235, 324. 


Iwai, 419. 


Ichiki, 466. 


Inari-yama, 252. 


Iwaki, province, 223. 


Ichi-no-he, 484. 


Inatori, 158. 


Iwaki-san, 496. 


Ichi-no-kawa, 433. 


Inawashiro, 486. 


Iwakuni, 406 ; 397. 


Ichi-no-seki, 481. 


Indian influence, 36-38, 


Iwa-kuzure, 489. 


Iehi-no-shuku, 263. 


59, 353, 355. 


Iwamizawa, 513 ; 511, 


Ichi-no-tani, 306. 


Inekuki, 260. 


512. 


Ida Ten, 47. 


Inland Sea, 395. 


Iwanai, 511. 


Iemitsu, 73, 199. 


Innai, 495. 


Ivvane-zawa, 498. 


leyasu, 74, 195, 231, et 


In-no-shima, 398. 


Iwanuma, 480 ; 223. 


pass. 


Inns, 6, 14, et pass. 


Iwasa Matahei, 58, 237. 


Igano, 410. 


Ino, 439. 


Iwataki, 385. 


Ignis fatuus, 450. 


In5 Cbukei, 120. 


Iwate-san, 483. 


li Kamon-no-kami, 348. 


Inohana, 440. 


Iwaya, 409. 


lida, 289. 


I-no-kasbira (Fuji), 169. 


Iwo-ga-tani, 465. 


lide-san, 488. 


I-no-kasbira (Tokyo), 


Iwo-san (Yezo), 516. 


ligai, 364. 


140. 


Iwoshima, 401, 446. 


Iino-yama, 427. 


Insatsu Kyoku, 124. 


Iya, 436. 


Iizaka, 479. 


Inuboe, 216. 


Iyadani, 427. 


liznka, 173. 


Irises, 114, 134. 


Iyahiko, 249. 


IjCiin, 466. 


Iriyama-toge, 176. 


Iyo Nada, 395, 400. 


Ikao, 180; 9. 


Isahaya, 452 : 448. 


Izanagi, 47, et pass. 


Ikari, 213. 


Isawa, 283. 


Izanami, 47, 380, et pass. 


Ikari-ga-seki, 496. 


Ise, 291; 11. 


Izogu, 297. 


Ikebara, 372. 


Iseki, 379. 


Izu, peninsula, 155, 231. 


Ikeda (Av>a), 440 ; 435. 


Ishibata, 239. 


Izu-ga-hara, 474. 


Ikeda (Settsu), 305. 


Isbi-ga-sanjo, 433. 


Izumi-kawa, 429, 434. 



640 



Indew. 



IZUMCHPKOVINCE 


KAMI-ICHI 


I KASA-BAKE 


Izunio, province, 414, et 


Kado-ishiwara, 433. 


Kami-Ide, 170. 


seq. 


Kadoma, 500. 


Kamikane, 277. 


Izuna-san, 251. 


Kadori, 145. 


Kamikochi, 264; 261, 


Izuru, 190. 


Kaempfer, E., 154. 


262. 


Izu-san, 156-7. 


Kaga, province, 388. 


Kami-Miyori, 212. 




Kagami-no-ura, 220. 


Kami-no-knra, 378. 


J 


Kagekiyo, 76. 


Kami-no-yama, 494. 




Kagemori, 170. 


Kami-Okubo, 260. 


Jakko, 202. 


Kage-no-shima, 446. 


Kami-Suwa, 281. 


" Japan Mail," 123. 


Kagi, 530. 


Kamiya, 365. 


Jigen Daishi, 130, 194, 


Kago, 10. 


Kamiyama, 151 ; 147. 


et pass. 


Kagoshima, 462 ; 397. 


Kami Ynjima, 284. 


Jigoku (Aso-san), 468. 


Kagura dance, 43, et 


Kami-Zuketo, 423. 


Jikaku Daishi, 75, 416. 


pass. 


Kammyo, 439. 


Jik-koku-toge, 156. 


Kaidaichi, 396, 403. 


Kamo, 294, 355. 


Jikwan, 202. 


Kaigane-san, 287. 


Kamogawa (Boshu), 219. 


Jimmu, emperor, 75, 


Kaimon-dake, 465. 


Kamogawa (Kyoto), 314, 


358 ; 3, 63. 


Kaitakushi, 505. 


315, 344. 


Jin-ga-mine, 369. 


Kaiznka, 311. 


Kamoshima, 436. 


Jingd, empress, 75, 303. 


Kaji-ka-zawa, 277. 


Kamozawa, 277. 


Jinguji, 495. 


Kajima, 289. 


Kamni-kotan, 515. 


Jinrikishas, 7, 10, et 


Kakegawa, 234. 


Kan Shojo, 54. 


pass. 


Kakemono, 60. 


Kanagawa, 100, 110. 


Jinzu-gawa, 266. 


Kakizaka, 472. 


Kanai, 210. 


Jizo, 47, 131. 


Kakogawa, 306. 


Kaname-ishi, 217 ; 80. 


Jocho, 76. 


Kakumi, 509. 


Kanaya, 220. 


J6-ga-hana, 270, 391. 


Kamabuchi, 494. 


Kanayama (Hida), 258. 


Jo-ga-shima, 106. 


Kamada, 247. 


Kanazawa, (Kaga), 390. 


Jogwanji-gawa, 391. 


Kamado, 254. 


Kanayama (Yezo), 515. 


Johnston, Kev. J., 527. 


Kamafuse-san, 502. 


Kanazawa (Yokohama), 


Jonen-dake, 268 ; 257. 


Kamagori, 235. 


107. 


Josetsu, 57. 


Kamaishi, 501. 


Kanda Myojin, 125. 


Joyama, 159. 


Kamakura, 101 ; 86. 


Kankake, 402. 


Jozankei, 512. 


Kamanashi-gawa, 281. 


Kannawa-mnra, 470. 


Jujo-toge, 375. 


Kamata, 110. 


Kano, painters, 57, 76, 


Jujutsu, 114, 336. 


Kamatari, 72, 362. 


323, 335, et pass. 


Juniso, 139. 


Kamazawa, 288. 


Kano-zan, 220. 


Junnin, emperor, 409, 


Kamba, 414. 


Kantan, 470. 


411. 


Kambara, 230. 


Kanzaki (Hizen), 453. 


Junsai-numa, 507. 


Kame-ga-mori, 433. 


Kanzaki Jet., 305. 


Jurojin, 48. 


Kameido, 135. 


Kaori, 479. 




Kameoka, 341, 383. 


Karafuto, 517 ; 515. 


K 


Kameyama Jet., 291, 


Kara-ike, 449. 




292, 294. 


Karasaki, 346. 


Kabafuto, 517. 


Kami, 48. 


Karatsu, 453 ; 400. 


Kaburiki-yama, 244. 


Kamibara, 259. 


Karigawa, 497. 


Kabuto-kami-san, 500. 


Kamibn, 434. 


Kariki, 512. 


Kabnto-yama, 305. 


Kamidaki, 267, 269. 


Kariya, 408. 


Kachidoki-no-taki, 508. 


Kami-Gamo, 340. 


Karizaka-toge, 172. 


Kachiyama, 220. 


Kamigata, 313, 


Karuizawa, 175 ; 9, 243. 


Kada, 312. 


Kamigori, 396. 


Karnrusu-Onsen, 508. 


Kado, 495. 


Kami-ichi, 363. 


Kasa-dake, 262 ; 257. 



Index. 



541 



KASAGI 

Kasagi, 294, 355. 
Kasamori, 218. 
Kasaoka, 398. 
Kashii, 455. 
Kashima, 217. 
Kashiwa-bara (Doniyd- 

ji), 357. 
Kashiwa-bara (Jimmu 

Tenn5), 359. 
Kashiwa-bara (Shin- 
slid), 246 ; 251. 
Kashiwara-yania, 410. 
Kashiwa-zaki, 248. 
Kasho, 48. 
Kasuga, 350. 
Kasuga-Shinden, 248. 
Kasuga-yania, 355. 
Kasurni lagoon, 217. 
Kasumi, vill., 419. 
Katakake, 259. 
Katase, 104. 
Katashina-gawa, 210. 
Katata, 344, 386. 
Kata-yamazu, 389. 
Kat5 Kiyomasa, 76, et 

pass. 
Katsubo, 248. 
Katsugawa, family, 58. 
Katsuno, 344. 
Katsura (Kishu), 380. 
Katsura palace, 323. 
Katsura-gawa (Kyoto), 

341. 
Katsura-gawa (Sagami), 

274. 
Katsu-ura, 218. 
Katsuyama (Echizen), 

271. 
Katsuyama (Minasaka), 

414. 
Kawa-bashiri, 472. 
Kawabe,496. 
Kawachi (Hirado), 451. 
Kawachi (Hyuga), 472 ; 

461. 
Kawado, 371. 
Kawaguchi (Awa), 439. 
Kawaguchi (Koshu), 

283. 
Kawagucbi (Osaka), 307. 
Kawaguchi (Pdkucbu), 

484. 



KISHI BOJIN 

Kawaguchi (Tosa), 438. 
Kawaji, 212. 
Kawajiri, 495. 
Kawakami, 471. 
Kawanaka-jima, 245. 
Kawano, 277. 
Kawanoe, 429, 434. 
Kawara-yu, 185. 
Kawasaki, 110. 
Kawa-uchi, 500. 
Kawawa, 101. 
Kawazu-no-hama, 159. 
Kazuno, 484. 
Kazusa, 215. 
Ke-age, 336 ; 296. 
Keelung, 528. 
Kegon waterfall, 205. 
Keicho-zan, 214. 
Kei-ga-shima, 230. 
Keiki, 233. 

Kei-no-Matsubara, 411. 
Kesa Grozen, 76. 
Kichijoji, 273. 
Kiga, 148. 
Kii Channel, 409. 
Kiigawa, 365. 
Kikitsu, 452. 
Kikuchi, Prof., 487. 
Kimb5-san, 461. 
Kimii-dera, 311. 
Kimpu-zan, 275. 
Kinkaku-ji, 319. 
Kinko-zan, 345 ; 334. 
Kinkwa-zan, 491. 
Kinokuni-ya Bunzae- 

mon, 374. 
Kinomoto, 380 ; 372. 
Kintaiichi, 484. 
Kintai-ky5, 406. 
Kinosaki, 413 ; 386, 419. 
Kintoki-zan, 152 ; 147. 
Kinugawa, 213, 478. 
Kinukasa-yama, 319. 
Kirai, 435. 
Kirifuri, 201. 
Kirigome, 207. 
Kiri-ishi, 169. 
Kirishima-Onsen, 465. 
Kirishima-yama, 464. 
Kiryu, 191. 
Kisarazu, 220. 
Kishi Bojin, 48. 



KOISHIKAWA 

Kishi wada, 311. 
Kishti, province, 372, 

381, 382. 
Kiso Fukushima (see 

Fukushima, Shinshu). 
Kisogawa, 255; 239,291. 
Kiso-no-Kakehashi, 256. 
Kissawa, 275. 
Kitakami-gawa, 481. 
Kitami, 515. 
Kitano Tenjin, 318. 
Kita-Shirakawa, prince, 

127, 200, 528. 
Kita-ura lagoon, 217. 
Kitayama-gawa, 377. 
Kiyokawa, 497 ; 494. 
Kiyomizu, 330. 
Kiyomori, 76, 86, 302-3, 

403. 
Kiyosumi, 219. 
Kizan, 528. 
Kizugawa, 294. 
Kizuki, 414-5; 11. 
Kizuro, 377. 
Ko-Ajiro, 103. 
Ko-Ama-no - Hashidate, 

386. 
Kobata, 349. 
Kobe, 302 ; 241. 
Kobe-gawa, 416. 
Kobiro-toge, 375. 
Kobo Daishi, 77, et pass. 
Kobori, 77. 
Kobotoke-toge, 274. 
K6'Bu Eailway, 273, 

281. 
Kobuchi-zawa, 281. 
Kobu-ga-hara, 205. 
Kobui, 508. 
K5chi (Izu), 159. 
Kochi (Tosa), 437 ; 397. 
Kochi-no-yu, 276, 277. 
Kodaiji, 332. 
Kofu, 274. 
Kofulmji, 354. 
Koga, 478. 
Koganei, 140. 
Kogawa-guchi, 378. 
Kogawara lagoon, 485. 
Kogota, 481. 
Ko-gumo-tori, 382. 
Koishikawa, 126. 



542 



Index. 



KOJIGOKU 


KUCHINOTSU 


KUEOZAWA 


Kojigoku (Miyanoshita), 


Kora-san, 459. 


Kudamatsu, 397. 


148; 147. 


Korea, invasions of, 62, 


Kudan, 122. 


Kojigoku (Unzen), 448. 


73. 


Kudarise, 268. 


"Kojiki," 47, 62, 80, 236, 


Korean influence, 39, 


Kuga, 397. 


410, 416, 423, 474. 


56,e£seg.,61,327,455, 


Kugenuma, 105. 


Kojima Takanori, 78. 


466. 


Ku-hon-butsu, 138. 


Kojird, 450. 


Korin, 58. 


Kuji, 500. 


Koka, 301. 


Koriyama (Iwashiro), 


Kujira-nami, 248. 


Kokawa, 370. 


478 ; 223, 485. 


Ku-ju-ku-ri, 217. 


Kokei-zan, 255 ; 239. 


Koriyama (Yamato), 


Ku-ju-ku Tani, 220. 


Koken, empress, 409. 


355. 


Kukuno, 258. 


Kokubu, 462, 473. 


Koromo-gawa, 482. 


Kumagai, 173. 


Kokubunji, 273. 


Koropok-guru, 516. 


Kumagai Naozane, 78. 


Kokura, 455, 456. 


Koroton, 529. 


Kumagawa (Kosbu), 


Kokuzo Bosatsu, 48. 


Korsakoff, 518; 2. 


172. 


Koma, 483. 


Kosaka, 496. 


Kumagawa (Kyushu), 


Komachi (Iyo), 430. 


Kosaka, 179. 


461, 462. 


Komachi, poetess, 78. 


Kose, 177. 


Kumagawa (Wakasa), 


Koma-ga-take (Hako- 


Kose-no-Kanaoka, 56, 


387. 


ne), 150 ; 147. 


317. 


Kumamachi, 438. 


Koma-ga-take (Koshu), 


Koshibu, 288. 


Kumamoto, 459, 467. 


288. 


Koshigoe, 105. 


Kumano, 372. 


Koma-ga-take (Shin- 


Koshiki-jima, 466. 


Kumano-gawa, 376 ; 372 


shu), 272; 256, 257, 


Koshin, 48. 


378. 


289. 


Koshin-zan, 211. 


Kuma-no-Onsen, 510. 


Koma-ga-take (Yezo), 


Koshu Kaido, 273, 281. 


Kuma-no-taira, 176. 


507. 


Koshun, 531. 


Kumihama, 386. 


Komatsu (Echigo), 488. 


Kotaba, 276. 


Kunashiri, 517. 


Komatsu (Kaga), 389. 


Kotenjo, 371. 


Kunimi-dake, 449. 


Komatsu-jima, 424, 440. 


Kotohira, 427; 48. 


Kuni-toko-tachi, 50. 


Komei, emperor, 340. 


K6t5-sho, 531. 


Kuno-zan, 231 ; 228. 


Kome-no-ura, 388. 


Kowaki-dani, 148. 


Kurama-yama, 343. 


Kominato (Boshu), 218. 


Koya-guchi, 365. 


Kura-no-moto, 466. 


Kominato (Nambu), 485. 


Koyama, 230. 


Kurayosbi, 418. 


Ko-Mitake, 164, 168. 


Koyama-ike, 418. 


Kure, 403 ; 397. 


Komoe, 409. 


Koya-san, 366 ; 77, 382. 


Kuresaka-toge, 186. 


Komori, 386. 


Koyo-kwan, 120. 


Kurihashi, 478. 


Komoro, 244 ; 178. 


Koxinga, 527, 530. 


Kurile Islands, 517. 


Kompira, god, 48. 


Kozawa, 511. 


Kurisu-gawa, 375. 


Kompira (Ikao), 181. 


Kozenji, 481. 


Kurobe, 266. 


Kompira, temple, 427. 


Kozoji, 254. 


Kurobe-gawa, 391. 


Komuro, 278. 


Kozori, 285. 


Kurodani, 337, 342. 


Konabe-toge, 159. 


Kozu, 147, 229. 


Kuroe, 373. 


Kongara Doji, 46. 


Kozushima, 521. 


Kurohime, 250. 


Konodai, 216. 


KublaiKhan,61,73,102, 


Kuroiso, 478. 


Konoha, 459. 


455, 474. 


Kurokawa (Iyo), 432. 


Ko-no-Hana - Saku - ya - 


Kubokawa, 441. 


Kurokawa (Koshu), 288, 


Hime, 48, 252. 


Kubota, 453. 


Kuromatsu-nai, 510. 


Konosu, 142, 172. 


Kubota Beisen, 338. 


Kuromori, 284. 


Konsei-t5ge, 207, 209. 


Kucharo, 516. 


Kurosawa-jiri, 482, 495. 


Konuma, 507. 


Kuchi-no-hayashi, 458. 


Kuroshio, 423, 523. 


Koraku-en, 126. 


Kuchinotsu, 450. 


Kurozawa, 272. 



Index. 



543 



KURUMA-DANI 


MABTJCHI 


MATSUO 


Kuruma-dani, 304. 


Lake Hakone, 154. 


Machida, 426. 


Kururne, 458 ; 457. 


Lake Haruna, 182. 


Mackay, Rev. Dr. G., 


Kurunii, 432. 


Lake Harutori, 516. 


527, 532. 


Kuryu-toge, 219. 


Lake Hibara, 486. 


Maebasbi, 173. 


Kusakabe, 472. 


Lake Ikeda, 466. 


Maeyama, 449. 


Kusakura, 488. 


Lake Inawashiro, 486. 


Magari-kawa, 375. 


Kusatsn Jet., 241 ; 294. 


Lake Kawaguchi, 168. 


Masja-tama, 128. 


Kusatsu (Kotsuke), 186. 


Lake Kizaki, 268. 


Maibara, 240. 


Kushimoto, 382 ; 313. 


Lake Motosu, 169. 


Maiko, 305, 412. 


Kushiro, 516. 


Lake Nishi-no-umi, 168. 


Maisaka, 235. 


Kushun-kotan, 518. 


Lake Nojiri, 247. 


Maisawa, 482. 


Kusshaku, 528. 


Lake Sbikotsu, 512. 


Maizuru, 383, 387. 


Kusunoki Masashige, 


Lake Suwa, 282. 


Makkura-daki, 201. 


79, 303. 


Lake Towada, 496 ; 484. 


Makyu, 531. 


Eutani, 389. 


Lake Toya, 514. 


Mangwanji, 194. 


Kutchan, 511. 


Lake Yumoto, 207. 


Mano-no-ike, 429. 


Kutsukake ( Asama), 177. 


" Lakes " (Hakodate), 


Mansei-basbi, 125. 


Kutsukake (Rikuchu), 


507. 


Mantomi, 396. 


501. 


Language, 16, 521, 522, 


Manzawa, 278, 280. 


Kuwagi-saki, 500. 


525. 


Maple Club, 121. 


Xuwana, 292. 


Lava stream, 178. 


Maples, 114, 142, 207, 


Kuzu (lyo), 439. 


Legends, 43, 47, 75, 


223,305,821,337,343, 


Kiizukawa, 372. 


104, 105, 108, 131, 134, 


348, 356, 472, 508. 


Kwankaiji, 470. 


144,146,150,170,171, 


Maps, 2. 


Kwannon, goddess, 50, 


175, 193-4, 236, 239, 


Marcus Island, 522. 


326, 360, et pass. 


245, 252, 254, 256, 280, 


Mariko, 1S9. 


Kwannon-no-taki, 447. 


282,293,300,306,312, 


Marishi-Ten, 50. 


Kwannon-saki, 242. 


321, 324, 326, 337, 340, 


Marugame, 426. 


Kwansai Railway, 291, 


343, 344, 346, 352, 355, 


Maru-numa, 207. 


294. 


359,360,368,374,379, 


Maruyama (Kyoto), 333. 


Kwaran-taM, 454. 


383, 403, 409, 410, 415, 


Maruyama-gawa, 413. 


Ewarenko, 531. 


416, 428, 435, 464, 467, 


Masakado, 79, 125, 143. 


Kyo-ga-shinia, 285. 


489, 491, 502, 522. 


Masaki, 462. 


Kyosai, 79. 


Letteis of introduction, 


Masamune, 79. 


Kyoto, 313; 8,11,241. 


7. 


Massage, 15. 


Kyukyo-kudo, 530. 


Lepers, 186, 459. 


Matahei, 58, 332 et pass. 


Kyushu, 445 ; 8. 


Libraries, 129. 


Mato, 211. 


Kyushu Railway, 451, 


Libraries, revolving, 45;' 


Matoya, 301. 


458. 


41, et pass. 


Matsucbi-yania, 133. 




Long-tailed fowls, 437. 


Matsuda (Boshti), 219. 


i 


Lotus flowers, 114, 127, 


Matsuda (Sagami), 153. 




et pass. 


Matsue, 414. 


Lacquer, CO, 120, 387, 


Lowell, Percival, 271, 


Matsuida, 173, 174. 


485, 486, 495, 526. 


290. 


Matsukawa, 479. 


Lagoons, 216, 222, 235, 


Luchu, 525. 


Matsukawa-ura, 223. 


414, 485, 495, 530. 


Luck, gods of, 53-4. 


Matsumae, 509 ; 505. 


Lake Aoki, 268. 


Luggage, 3, 10, 11. 


Matsumoto, 253; 245, 


Lake Biwa, 344 ; 240. 




260. 


Lake Bisva Canal, 344 ; 


M 


Matsunaga, 396. 


336. 




Matsunor278. 


Lake Candidius, 529. 


Mabechi-gawa, 484. 


Matsunoki, 263. 


Lake Chuzenji, 204. 


Mabuchi, 80. 


Matsuo, 412. 



544 



Index. 



MATSUSHIMA 


MISSIONS 


MIZUSAWA 


Matsushima (Hizen), 


Minamoto, family, 79, et 


Misu, 375. 


401. 


pass. 


Misumi, 461 ; 445. 


Matsushima (Sendai), 


Minato (Awaji), 411 ; 


Mitai, 472. 


490 ; 481. 


408. 


Mitajiri, 407 ; 397. 


Matsushiro, 245. 


Minato-gawa, 303. 


Mitake (Koshu), 275, 


Matsuto, 390. 


Mine (antimony), 433. 


284. 


Matsuyama (Iyo), 439, 


Mine (iron), 462, 501. 


Mitake (Musashi), 141. 


438, 438. 


Mine (manganese), 496. 


Mitamura, 276. 


Matsuzaka, 293. 


Mine (Izu), 159. 


Mitford, A. B:, 115, 121, 


Matsuzaki (Hoki), 418. 


Mine (Yokohama), 107. 


145, 303. 


Matsuzaki (Izu), 158. 


Mineral springs, 148, 


Mito family, 79, 126, 


Mauka, 518. 


150, 155, 157, 160, 173, 


217, 222. 


Mausolea, 115, 129, 195, 


179,180,181,184,185- 


Mito (Hitachi), 222. 


359. 


7, 207, 214, 215, 223, 


Mito (Izu), 158. 


Maya Bunin, 50. 


253, 267, 281, 282, 305, 


Mitsubishi Co., 446, 448, 


Maya-san, 304. 


375, 382, 389, 390, 407, 


530. 


Me-Akan, 515. 


418,419,431,448,452- 


Mitsu-ga-hama, 430. 


Meguro, 137. 


3, 454, 461, 464, 465, 


Mitsumata, 189. 


Meiji-Tenno, 79 ; 3, 349. 


470, 479, 481, 482, 483, 


Mitsumine, 171. 


Mei-no-hama, 454. 


485, 486, 494, 496, 498, 


Mitsune, 523. 


Mena, 510. 


507, 508, 511, 514, 516, 


Miwa, 359. 


Mendez Pinto, 445, 470. 


529. 


Miwatari, 293. 


Mera, 219. 


Mines (coal), 223, 377, 


Miwazaki, 379. 


Metal- work, 60. 


407,448,451,453,455, 


Miya (Taguchi), 464. 


Miai, 377. 


456,459,511,513,515, 


Miyagawa (Hida), 259, 


Midogaito, 288. 


518, 527. 


Miyagawa (Ise), 294. 


Midono, 255, 273, 289. 


Mines (copper), 211, 371, 


Miyagino, 148. 


Mie, 473. 


398,432,433,439,473, 


Miyaichi, 407. 


Mieno-toge, 472. 


488, 496. 


Miyaji, 468 ; 467. 


Mihara, 403 ; 397. 


Mines (gold), 250, 285, 


Miyajima, island, 404; 


Mihara, volcano, 521. 


462, 466, 527. 


398. 


Mihara, 223, 478. 


Mines (silver), 250, 261, 


Miyajima, station, 398. 


Miidera, 346. 


412,479,495,496,511. 


Miyake, 521. 


Miike, mines, 459. 


Mino,305. 


Miyako odori, 314. 


Mi-ike, lake, 465. 


Minobu, 278. 


Miyako (Eikuchu), 500. 


Mikaburi-yama, 284. 


Minoshima, 374. 


Miyako-jima, 525. 


Mikado, see Emperor. 


Mint (Osaka), 308. 


Miyako-no-j5, 473. 


Mikasa-yama, 355. 


Miomote, 489. 


Miyamizu, 473. 


Mikawa (Kaga), 390. 


Mio-no-Matsubara, 230. 


Miyanoshita, 147-8; 6, 


Mikawa, province, 235. 


Miroku, 50. 


9. 


Mikizato, 381. 


Misaka (Iyo), 438. 


Miyashiro, 253. 


Mikomoto, 242. 


Misaka-toge (Koshu), 


Miya-toge, 258. 


Mikuni-toge (Bungo), 


283. 


Miyazaki, 462, 473. 


473. 


Misaka-toge (Shinshu), 


Miyazono, 458. 


Mikuni-toge (Kdtsuke), 


273. 


Miyazu, 383. 


189. 


Misaki, 106. 


Miyoda, 283 ; 179. 


Mikura, island, 521. 


Misen, 371. 


Miyodo-gawa, 438. 


Mikura (Tot5mi), 234. 


Mishima (Iyo), 434. 


Mizoguchi, 416. 


Mikuriya, 418 ; 416. 


Mishima Jet., 159. 


Mizunuma, 212 ; 184. 


Mimi-zuka, 328. 


Mishima-machi, 159. 


Mizusawa (Ikao), 182. 


Minabe, 374, 382. 


Mishima-Nada, 395, 399. 


Mizusawa (Rikuchu), 


Minami-jima, 524. 


Missions, 88, 


482, 



Index. 



545 



Mobara, 217,218. 
Mogami-gawa, 497 ; 494. 
Mogi, 447. 
Moheji, 509. 
Moji, 408 ; 397. 
Mombetsu, 514. 
Momoishi-gawa, 484. 
Momoyama, 349, etpass. 
Money, 4. 
Mongaku Shonin, 76, 

379. 
Mongawa, 157. 
Monju, 51. 
Monju-d5, 385. 
Monkey-god, 48, 50, 122. 
Monkeys, 377, 505. 
Mononobe-no-Moriya, 

84. 
Monzeki, 83, 130, 136. 
Mori, family, 417. 
Mori (Bungo), 471. 
Mori (Yezo), 510. 
Morimatsu, 438. 
Morioka, 482. 
Morizane, 458. 
Morrison, Arthur, 60. 
Moronobu, 58. 
Motor cars, 10. 
Moto-Aikai, 497. 
Moto-Hakone, 151, 154. 
Motojuku, 179. 
Motomiya, 478. 
Motomura, 521. 
Motona, 220. 
Motoori Norinaga, 80, 

142, 293. 
Mount Morrison, 532. 
Mount Sylvia, 532. 
Mountain districts, 9, 

10, 12, et pass. 
Muda, 365. 
Mugi, 440. 
Mugiyama, 277. 
Muika-machi, 189. 
Mukabaki, 473. 
Mukade-yama, 347. 
Mukai-jima, 403. 
Mukawa, 513. 
Mukdjima, 133. 
Monro, N. G. Dr.. 142. 
Murakami (Echigo), 
489. 



NAGASAEA 

Murakami (Shinshu), 

185. 
Muraoka, 419. 
Murasaki Shikibu, 80, 

347. 
Murayama, 165 ; 161. 
Murdoch, J., 450. 
Muronoki, 406. 
Muroran, 514. 
Muroto, cape, 441 ; 77. 
Murotsu, 412. 
Musashi, 454. 
Museums, 111, 122, 125, 

127, 136, 327, 335, 354, 

429, 512, 528, 530. 
Mushi-yu, 181. 
Muya, 424. 
Myoban, 465. 
Myogi-san, 173, 184. 
Myoho-in, 327. 
Myojin-ga-take, 147. 
Myojo-ga-take, 149 ; 147. 
Myoken-dake, 449. 
Myoken-do, 386. 
Myoken-yama (Settsu), 

305. 
Myoko-zan, 251. 
Myosenji, 179. 
Myoshinji, 320. 
Mythology, 36, 43, 415. 

N 

Nachi, 379, 382. 
Nada, 302. 
Nadachi, 391. 
Nagahama (Faji), 168. 
Nagahama (Omi), 348, 

388 ; 344. 
Nagai, 189. 
Nagakubo, 282. 
Nagamine, 247. 
Nagano, 245. 
Nagao, 426. 
Xagao pass, 155. 
Nagaoka (Echigo), 248 ; 

189. 
Xagaoka (Iwashiro), 479. 
Xagaoka (Omi), 240. 
Nagaoka (Yamashiro), 

324 ; 315. 
Nagasaka, 210. 



NAMERI-KAWA 

Nagasaki (Echigo), 188. 
Nagasaki (Hizen), 445. 
Nagashima (Kishu), 381. 
Nagashima (Satsuma), 

466. 
Nagasu, 459. 
Nagata-cho, 122. 
Nagaudo, 260 ; 256. 
Nagayo, 452. 
Nago, 525. 
Nagoya, 236 ; 254. 
Nagui-dake, 484. 
Naha, 525. 
Naiku, 300, 296. 
Nakabusa-Onsen, 253. 
Najima, 455. 
Nakabata, 164. 
Naka-dori, 124. 
Naka-hechi, 382. 
Naka-iwa, 202. 
Naka-izumi, 235, 289. 
Nakamura(Echigo), 489, 
Nakamura (IwaM), 223. 
Nakamura (Tosa), 441. 
Nakanogo, 388. 
Nakanojo, 184. 
Naka-no-machi, 289. 
Naka-no-shima, 401. 
Nakase, 419, 
Nakasendo, 254 ; 172 et 

pass. 
Nakashima, 417. 
Nakatsu, 456, 472. 
Nakatsu-gawa, 255, 273. 
Naka-umi lagoon, 414. 
Nakayama (Iwashiro), 

485. 
Nakayama (Kotsuke), 

189. 
Nakayama (Nambu), 

484, 485. 
Nakayama (Shimosa), 

216. 
Nakayama (Yezo), 509. 
Nakayama-dera, 305. 
Nakoso, 222. 
Namamugi, 110. 
Namari, 482. 
Namaze, 305. 
Nambu (Fujikawa), 280. 
Nambu (Mutsu), 492. 
Nameri-kawa, 391. 



546 



Index. 



NAMETOKO 


NOJIEI 


OBATA 


Nametoko, 437. 


Nihachi-sui, 530. 


Nojiri (Shinshu), 255. 


Namie, 223. 


Nihom-bashi, 124. 


Nokendo, 107. 


Nanae, 510. 


" Nihon Gwaishi ", 82. 


Nokogiri-yama, 220. 


Nanao, 390. 


" Nihongi" 55. 


Nomugi-tdge, 263. 


Nanase-gawa, 470. 


Mhon-matsu, 478. 


Nonaka, 375. 


Nana-taM (Jakko), 202. 


Niigata, 249, 488. 


None, 440. 


Nana-taki (Nyoho-zan), 


Niihama, 433 ; 432. 


Nonoichi, 432. 


202. 


Niijima, island, 521. 


Norikura, 260 ; 257. 


Nanatsu-mori, 480. 


Niijima, Joseph, 337. 


Norokawa, 287. 


Nana-ura, 459. 


Niijima, vill, 521 . 


North-East Coast, 499. 


Naniwa, 307. 


Niikappu, 513. 


Northern and Southern 


Nankai Railway, 309. 


Nii-taka-yama, 532. 


Courts, 72; 67. 


Nanko temple, 303. 


Niitsu, 249, 488. 


" Northern Passage " 


Nanshiko. 530. 


Nijo, 321, 341. 


(Inland Sea), 399. 


Nantai-zan (Nikko), 203, 


Nikko, 191 ; 6, 9, 11. 


Northern Railway, 477. 


206, 208. 


Nikko Bosatsu, 51. 


Noshiro. 495. 


Nanwan, 531. 


Ni-6, 51. 


Noto, province, 390. 


Nanzenji, 336. 


Nippara, 172. 


Notogawa, 241. 


Naoetsu, 247, 391. 


Nippara-gawa, 277. 


Notoro, cape, 518. 


Nara, 349, 351 ; 11. 


Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, 


Notsnhara, 470. 


Narada, 285, 286. 


2, 243, 516, 527. 


Nozawa, 488. 


Narai, 254. 


Nippori, 221. 


Nozoki, 495. 


Narihira, 80. 


Nirazaki, 281. 


Nukui-dani-t5ge, 266. 


Narita, 143. 


Nire,^187. 


Nukumi, 469. 


Narusawa, 168. 


Nirvana, 52. 


Numakunai, 484. 


Narutaki, 447. 


Nishijo, 253. 


Numa-no-hata, 513. 


Naruto Channel, 411, 


Nishikata, 466. 


Numasaki, 485. 


424. 


Nishiki-gawa, 406. 


Numata, 210 ; 188. 


Nashimoto, 159. 


Nishikori, 255. 


Numazu, 230. 


Nasu, 214. 


Nishi-maki Murata, 179. 


Nunobiki, 303. 


Nasu-yama, 215. 


Nishi-Mochiya, 282. 


Nuns, Buddhist, 245. 


Natsui-gawa, 223. 


Nishi-Nasuno, 213, 478. 


Nushima, 410. 


Naumann, Dr. E., 173. 


Nishi-no-miya, 241. | 


Nuttari, 249. 


Naval Colleges, 136, 403. 


Nishi-no-omote, 463. £ 


Nutter, H., Pre/. 


Naze, 525. 


Nishi-no-shima, 417. ! 


Nyaku-5ji, 337. 


Nebiki-saka, 439. 


Nishinoto, 289. 


Nyohoji, 249. 


Negoroji, 370. 


Nishi-utani, 330.iJ! W 


Nyoho-zan, 202. 


Neko-dake, 469. 


Nishitappn, 513.g 


Nyo-i-rin, 50. 


Nekoya, 231. 


NittaYoshisada, 81,103. 


Nyorai, 51. 


Nemba, 168. 


Niwasaka, 479. s 5 


Nyu (Omi), 348. 


Nenmro, 516. 


Nizaka-toge, 381. i 




Netanai, 508. 


Nobeoka, 473 ; 472. 





Wetsuke, 60. 


Nobiru, 492 ; 481. 




Neu, 414. 


Nobori-betsn, 508, 514. 


O-Akan, 516. 


Nezame, 256. 


Nobnnaga, 81, et pass. 


Oami, 498. 


Nezumi Kozo, 135. 


Nodori-san, 286. 


Oarai, 222. 


Nichiren, 80; 39, 138, 


Nogata, 455. 


Obaku-san, 249. 


218, 280. 


Noguchi, 266. 


Obama (Unzen), 448. 


Niegawa, 254. 


Noheji, 485, 501. 


Obama (Wakasa), 387. 


Niemon-jima, 219. 


Nojima, 218. 


Obara, 479. 


Nigishima, 381. 


Nojiri (Ise), 381. 


Obasute, 244, 252. 


Ni-gwatsu-do, 352. 


Nojiri, lake, 247. 


Obata, 502. 



Index. 



547 



OBATAKE 


OMINE 


OSHIMA 


Obatake, 406. 


Oiso, 229. 


Omine (Yamato), 371. 


Obihiro, 515. 


Oita, 470; 397,473. 


Omiya (Chichibu), 170. 


ObiM-zaka, 380. 


Oiwake (Omi), 345. 


Omiya (Fuji), 170 ; 161. 


Obree Channel, 401. 


Oiwake (Shinshu), 178. 


Omiya Jet,, 172, 477. 


Ochi, 438. 


Oiwake (Yezo), 513. 


Omono-gawa, 495. 


Ochiai (Mino), 272. 


Oji Jet,, 355, 357. 


Omori, 110. 


Ochiai (Tamagawa), 


Oji (T6ky5), 142. 


Omoto, 500. 


277. 


Ojigoku (Miyanoshita), 


Omura (Hizen), 452. 


Ochiai (Yezo), 515. 


_ 149 ; 147. 


OmuroGosho, 320. 


Oda, 461. 


Ojigoku (Unzen), 448. 


Omuro-zan, 157. 


Odai-ga-hara, 381. 


Ojika, 499. 


Omuta, 459. 


Odaira, 159. 


Ojin, emperor, 46. 


Onamuji, 51, 415. 


Odaira-toge, 255, 289. 


Ojiri-numa, 207. 


Ondo, 403 ; 398. 


Odaka, 416. 


Oka, 294, 382. 


Ongagawa, 455. 


Odaki (Chichibu), 172. 


Okago, 523. 


Ongawa, 176. 


Odaki (Ikao), 182. 


Okame, goddess, 55. 


Oni, 51. 


Odaki (Kazusa), 218. 


Okamoto, 478. 


Oni-ga-jo, 380. 


Odate, 496 ; 484. 


Okawara (Shinshu), 288. 


Oni-ga-shima, 522. 


Odawara, 147, 155. 


Okawara (Y r amashiro\ 


Oni-ike, 467. 


Odera (Awa), 425. 


294. 


Onna-taka, 288. 


Odera (Iwashiro), 486. 


Okaya, 282. 


Onna-toge, 169. 


Odo (Shimonoseki), 


Okayama, 401. 


Onoda, 223. 


408. 


Okazaki, 235. 


Onoe, 306. 


Odo (Kotsuke), 185. 


Oki (Inland Sea), 398. 


Ono-gawa (Bungo), 469, 


O-enami, 410. 


Oki Islands, 416. 


_473. 


Oeyama, 386. 


Okimura, 524. 


Onogawa (Shinshu), 260. 


Ofuji, 277. 


Okina-jima, 486, 487. 


Onogoro-jima, 410. 


Ofuna, 101, 229. 


Okinawa, 525. 


Onoichi-toge, 473. 


Ofunatsu, 217. 


OkL-no-shima, 243. 


Onomichi, 403 ; 398. 


Ogaki, 239. _ 


Okitsu, 230, 281. 


Ono-Niimachi, 223. 


Ogasawara-jima, 523. 


Okkai, 209. 


Ono-no-Komachi, 78, 


Ogashima, 495. 


Okoba, 462. 


495. 


Ogawa, 235. 


Okubo (Tokyo), 273. 


Ontake, 271; 256, 257, 


Ogawa-no-Yumoto, 209. 


Okubo (Tosa), 439. 


263. 


Ogawara, 479. 


Okubo (Ugo), 495. 


Onuma, 507, 510. 


Oge-yama, 471. 


Okuni-nushi, 51. 


Orange, J., Pre/. 


Ogi-no-hama, 492. 


Okura, 455. 


Oranges, 374 ; 365, 461, 


Ogishima, 398. 


Okuwa, 180. 


464. 


Og5ri, 407. 


Okyo, 58. 


Orenge-yama, 267 ; 257. 


O-gumotori, 382. 


Omachi, 266 ; 253, 267. 


Orio, 455, 457. 


Oguri Hangwan, 82, 


Omae-zaki, 242. 


Osaka, 258.— 3^/ 


376. 


Omagari, 495. 


Osaka (Awa), 425. 


Ohara, 473. 


Omama, 191. 


Osaka (Lake Biwa), 345. 


Ohara (Kazusa), 217. 


O-Manago, 208. 


Osaka (Settsu), 307; 241. 


Ohara (Kotsuke), 210. 


Omaru, 215. 


Osaka Shosen Kwaisha, 


Ohara (Kyoto), 342. 


Ome, 276. 


2, 397, 404, 525, 527, 


Ohashi, 501. 


Omi, province, 344. 


_531. 


O-hechi, 382. 


Omi Hakkei, 344. 


Osaka- toge, 375. 


Ohito, 158. 


Omigawa, 248. 


Osawa (Rikuchu), 482. 


Ohoki-toge, 432. 


Omika, 222. 


Oshamambe, 510. 


Oigawa, 234. 


Ominato, 501. 


Oshima (Izu), 521. 


Oishida, 494. 


Omine (Choshu), 407. 


Oshima (Kishu), 242. 



548 



Index. 



OSHIMA 


PEIESTESSES 


KOKU-JU-BI-GOE 


Oshima (Suwo), 407. 


Painting, 56, et pass. 


Priests, 36. 


Oshii Kaido, 477, 484. 


Palace permits, 313. 


Prince-abbots, 127, 194, 


Oshti, province, 482. 


Palaces (Kyoto), 316, 


328, 335. 


Oshuku, 483. 


321, 335. 


Prisons, 173, 459, 480, 


Osore-zan, 502. 


Palaces (Tokyo), 123; 


507, 528. 


Osumi, province, 473. 


111, 136. 


Processions, 194, 238, 


Ota Dokwan, 115. 


Pankyo, 529. 


308, 314, 324, 340, 352. 


Ota (Hitachi), 222. 


Pappenberg, 446 ; 401. 


Proverbs, 130, 147, 191, 


Otaguchi, 439. 


Pariahs, 134. 


245, 339. 


Otaka, 235. 


Parks (Tokyo), 115, 121, 


Provisions, 9. 


Otaki, 272. 


122, 126, 131, 133. 


"Pure Shinto," 38, et 


Otani (Omi), 241, 345. 


Parry's Group, 523. 


pass. 


Otaru, 511. 


Passports, 7. 




Otenjo, 371. 


Peonies, 107, 114. 


R 


O-tenjo, 253. 


Peppermint, 515. 




Otobari-no-take, 471. 


Perry (Commodore), 61 ; 


Eai San-yd, 82, 456. 


O-toge, 284. 


1, 100, 106, 160, 523. 


Kailways, 10, 11; 7, et 


Otoineppo, 515. 


Pescadores, 531. 


pass. 


Otoko-yama, 343. 


Petroleum, 247, 529, 530. 


Eakan,51,238;137,231, 


Otome-toge, 152 ; 147. 


Phallicism, 36, 207. 


461. 


Oto-no-Miya, 72, 104. 


Photography, 14. 


Rakanji, 456. 


Ototo-jima, 523. 


Pilgrimages, 108, 144, 


Rapids, 109, 277, 278, 


Otsu (Omi), 346 ; 241. 


163, 208, 217, 240, 241, 


289, 341, 376, 435, 457, 


Otsu (Yokosuka), 106. 


246, 271, 296, 360 et 


462, 473, 528, 529. 


Ottate, 487. 


seq. 


Rashd-mon, 324. 


0-uchi-t5ge, 386. 


Pinan, 531. 


Rausu, 517. 


Outline tours, 89. 


Pine-trees, 346 ; 306, 


Red Cross Hospital, 121. 


Owami, 213. 


354, 385, 410, 412, 453, 


Regalia, 236. 


Owani, 496. 


489. 


Regents, 70, 73. 


Owari Bay, 242. 


Piratori, 513. 


Keiheishi Kaidd, 192. 


Owase, 381. 


Plum-blossoms, 294; 


Rein, Dr. J. J., 271, 344, 


Oya, 243, 282. 


114, 135, 306. 


423, 445. 


Oya shirazu, Ko shirazu, 


Poems, 75, 78, 146, 223, 


Reizan, 332. 


__167. 


312, 345, 352, 361, 484, 


Religions, 35. 


Oyama, General, 507. 


492. 


Rendaiji, 160, 


Oyama Jet., 190, 478. 


Police, 14. 


Renge Onsen, 267. 


Oyama (Suruga), 229. 


Ponto, 517. 


Revolution of 1868, 61- 


Oyama (Daisen), 416. 


Population, 87, 101, 506, 


2, 80, 486, 505. 


Oyama (Sagami), 108, 


524, 527. 


" Richardson Affair," 


221. 


Porcelain, 60, 73, 254, 


110, 462. 


Oya-shirazu, 391. 


292, 334, 345, 389, 390, 


Riess, Dr. L., 446. 


Oyu, 496. 


410, 414, 431, 451, 452, 


Rinnai, 530. 


Ozawa (Miomote), 489. 


455, 461, 463, 466. 


Rin Shihei, 490. 


Ozone, 254. 


Poronai, 512. 


Roads, 10, et pass. 


Ozu (Kumamoto), 467. 


Port Lloyd, 524. 


Robertson, Russell, 524. 


Ozu (Shikoku), 436. 


Porters, 11. 


Rock Islands, 242. 


Ozuchi, 500. 


Portuguese in Japan, 


Rojdestvensky, Admi- 


Ozuki, 274 ; 161, 168. 


62, 445, 470, 527. 


ral, 327. 




Post-office, 4. 


Rokken, 293. 


P 


Praying- wheels, 131, 


Rokko-zan, 304. 




156, 231, 347. 


Roku-bu-ten, 52. 


Pagoda, 41, 120, 145. 


Priestesses, 36, 294. 


Roku-ju-ri-goe, 498. 






Index. 



549 



BOKUBEN 


SAEUTA-HIKO 


SENJ5-GA-HAEA 


Kokuren, 400. 


Sakamoto (Yamato), 


Sasago, 274. 


Rosoku-iwa, 176. 


365. 


Sasakura, 469. 


Rubetsu, 517. 


Sakanashi, 469. 


Sasebo, 452 ; 451. 


Rumoe, 515. 


Sakata, 498. 


Saso, 365. 


Russians in Japan, 88, 


Sakawa-gawa, 147. 


Satow, Sir Ernest, 39, 


123, 474, 517. 


Sake, 9, 302. 


40, 47, 108, 407. 


Russo-Japanese War, 2, 


Saki, 381. 


Satoyama, 483. 


63, 400, 403, 474, 518. 


Sakihama, 440. 


Satsuma, porcelain, 463, 


Ryobu Shinto, 38, et 


Saki-shima, 526. 


466. 


pass. 


Sakunami, 481. 


Satsuma, province, 462 ; 


Ryo-Daishi, 130. 


Sakura S6gor5, 145. 


35. 


Ryogoku-bashi, 134. 


Sakura, town, 216. 


Satsuma rebellion, 462 ; 


Ryoseki, 439. 


Sakurai (Kazusa), 220. 


82, 459. 


Ryujin, 382. 


Sakurai (Kisarazu), 220. 


Sawada, 160. 


Ryuzai-toge, 363. 


Sakurai (Yamato), 357, 


Sawai, 276. 


Ryuzan-jita, 267. 


359. 


Sawara, 145. 


Ryuzu-ga-taki, 206. 


Sakura-jima, 464. 


Sawatari, 186. 




Samasana, 527. 


Saza, 451. 


s 


Samban, 401. 


Schwartz, Rev. H. B., 




Sambe-yama, 416. 


Bref. 


Sabanami, 389. 


Sam-bon-gi, 484. 


Sculpture, 59, 150, 238, 


Sado, 249. 


Same, 484. 


326, 353, et pass. 


Saga, 453. 


Sampans, 3. 


Sea-bathing, 105, 220, 


Sagami, 106. 


Sanda, 305. 


223. 


Sagami-gawa, 109. 


Sando-goya, 215. 


Seba, 256. 


Saga-no-seki, 397. 


Sangu Railway, 291, 294. 


Segano-Kinzan, 466. 


Saga-no-Shakado, 321. 


San-gwatsu-do, 352. 


Sei Shonagon, 83. 


SaghaHen, 517. 


San-indo, 413. 


Seido, 125. 


Saiga wa, 253 ; 245. 


Sanjo, 248. 


Seikenji, 231. 


Saigd (OM), 417. 


San-ju-rokka-sen, 83. 


Sei-mi-yama, 424. 


Saigo Takamori, 82, 463, 


San-ju-san-gen-do, 326. 


Seitaka Doji, 46. 


473. 


San-kei, 11, 385, 404, 


Seki (Ise), 294. 


Saigu, 294. 


489. 


Seki (Mino), 258. 


Saigyo Hoshi, 83. 


Sanno, 122. 


Seki-ga-hara, 240. 


Saijo, 152, 432 ; 429. 


San-no-he, 484. 


Sekimoto, 153. 


Saijoji, 147. 


San-no-miya, 241 ; 227. 


Sekiue, 493. 


Saikyo, 313. 


Sanno-toge, 212. 


Seki-no-miya, 419. 


Sai-no-Kawara (Hades), 


Sano (Awa), 434. 


Sekinoto, 434. 


47. 


Sano (Hakone), 230. 


Sekiya (Nasu), 213. 


Sai-no-kawara (Kusa- 


Sano (Temmyo), 190. 


Sekiya, Prof., 487. 


tsu), 186. 


Sanuki, proyince, 423, 


Sekiyama (Echigo), 247. 


Sakai (Echizen), 389. 


425, 432. 


Semi-Maru, 345. 


Sakai (Hoki), 414, 417. 


Sanyo Railway, 396. 


Sendai (Rikuzen), 480. 


Sakai (Izumi), 310. 


San-yodo, 413. 


Sendai (Satsuma), 466. 


Sakai (Musashi), 140. 


San-zan, 498. 


Sengen, 52. 


Sakaide, 426. 


Sanze, 489. 


Sengen-toge, 172. 


Sakaime-toge, 434. 


Sapporo, 512. 


Sengen-yama (Ikao), 


Sakai- toge, 256. 


Saris, Capt. J., 308, 451. 


183; 182. 


Sakaki, 244. 


Sarufuto, 513. 


Sengen-yama (Miyano- 


Sakamoto (Higo), 461. 


Saru-ga-kyo, 189. 


shita), 148. 


Sakamoto (Lake Riwa), 


Saruhashi, 274. 


Sengoku, 152. 


342, 346. 


Saruta-hiko, 52. 


Senjd-ga-hara, 206. 



550 



Index. 



SENJU 


SHINT5 RELIGION 


SHIZtJOKA 


Senju (Mkkd), 205. 


Shima, province, 301. 


Shin-Torishima, 522. 


Sennin-toge, 501. 


Shimabara, 450 ; 449. 


Shinyu (Unzen), 448. 


Sen-no-Rikyu, 83. 


Shimada, 234. 


Shiobara, 213. 


Sensui-jima, 403. 


Shima-ga-hara, 294. 


Shiogama(Matsushima). 


Senta, 465. 


Shimanto-gawa, 441. 


490 ; 481. 


Sen-yuji, 326. 


Shimasaka, 461. 


Shiogama (Shiobara), 


Senzan, 409. 


Shima-shima, 260. 


213. 


Sessan, 532. 


Shimazu, family, 462 ; 


Shiojiri, 245, 256, 282. 


Sessho-gawara, 186. 


110. 


Shiokoshi, 499. 


Sessh5-seki, 215. 


Shimbashi, 109, 111. 


Shio-Misaki, 243. 


Sesshu, 57. 


Shimizu (Echigo), 188. 


Shio-no-ue, 285. 


Seta, 346 ; 241. 


Shimizu (Kishu), 374. 


Shiotsu (Kishu), 373; 


Setagawa, 345. 


Shimizu (Suruga), 231. 


312. 


Seto, 239, 254. 


Shimizu-goe, 188-9. 


Shiotsu (Omi), 344. 


Seto-no-uchi, 395. 


Shimmachi (Hyuga), 


Shioya, 305. 


" Seven High Mount- 


473. 


Shipment of goods, 12. 


ains," 240. 


Shimmachi (Musashi), 


Shirahama, 219. 


Seven Isles of Izu, 521. 


173. 


Shirahone, 260. 


Shajo, 531. 


Shimmachi (Shinshu), 


Shiraichi, 397. 


Shaka Muni, 52 ; 40. 


253. 


Shiraishi, 461. 


Shaka-ga-take, 372. 


Shimoda (Izu), 160. 


Shira-ito (Fuji), 170. 


Shakusonji, 178. 


Shimoda (Nambu), 484. 


Shirakawa (Higo), 459, 


Shana, 517. 


Shimo-Furano, 515. 


467. 


Shari-hotsu, 54. 


Shimo-Gamo, 340. 


Shirakawa (Iwaki), 478. 


Shari-yama, 304. 


Shimoku-zan, 377. 


Shirakawa (Kyoto), 342. 


Shell-heaps, 100. 


Shimonita, 173, 179. 


Shirakawa valley, 270. 


Shiba, 115. 


Shimo-no-seki, 408 ; 396. 


Shirakuni ; 306. 


Shiba-kawa, 278. 


Shimo-no-seki Straits, 


Shirane (Koshu), 286; 


Shibata, 488. 


408 ; 400. 


285. 


Shibetcha, 516. 


Shimosa, 215. 


Shirane-san (Kusatsu), 


Shibu, 187, 246. 


Shimo-Suwa, 282. 


186. 


Shibukawa, 210 ; 173, 


Shimozato, 382. 


Shirane-san (Yumoto), 


180. 


Shimo Yujima, 285. 


207. 


Shichi Fukujin, 53-4. 


Shinagawa, 110. 


Shirasawa, 496. 


Shichimen-zan (Mino- 


Shinai-numa, 481, 


Shiribeshi-gawa, 510. 


bu), 280. 


Shinano-gawa, 244. 


Shiribeshi-zan, 511. 


Shichimen-zan (Yama- 


Shinchi, 223. 


Shiri-sawabe, 506. 


to), 371. 


Shinchiku, 529, 532. 


Shiriuchi (Mutsu), 484. 


Shichi-no-he, 484. 


Shingonsect,39,77,131. 


Shiriuchi (Yezo), 509. 


Shichi-ri-ga-hama, 105. 


Shingu, 378 ; 373, 382. 


Shiroishi, 479. 


Shide, 365. 


Shinji lagoon, 414. 


Shirokata, 427. 


Shido, 425. 


Shinjiku, 112. 


Shirotori, 425. 


Shigemori, 76. 


Shinjo, 494. 


Shiro-uma, 268 ; 257. 


Shigeto, 439. 


Shin-minato, 406. 


Shiro-yama (Kagoshi- 


Shigi-sen, 357. 


Shin-no-Jofuku, 378, 


ma), 463. 


Shijo, painters, 58. 


522, 532. 


Shisaka-jima, 433. 


Shi-ju-has-saka, 382. 


Shinyo-do, 339. 


Shishigase-toge, 374. 


Shikabe, 508. 


Shinonoi, 245, 252. 


Shi-Tenno, 54. 


Shikari-betsu, 511. 


Shinran Shonin, 83. 


Shizuhara, 343. 


Shikoku, 423. 


Shinritsu, 436. 


Shizuki (Awaji), 408. 


Shikwan-jima, 399. 


Shinten, 528. 


Shizuku-ishi, 483. 


Shima, hot-springs, 184. 


Shintd religion, 35. 


Shizuoka, 232. 



Index. 



551 



SHIZU-TJRA 

Shizu-ura, 158. 
Shobu-no-hama, 205. 
Shobuta, 490. 
Shoden, 54. 
Sh5do Shonin, 193. 
Shodo-shima. 402. 
Shoguns, 61, 69, 79, 86, 

115, 129. 
Shogun-zuka, 333. 
Shoji, 168 ; 165. 
Shokonsha, 122. 
Shonai, 497. 
Shooting, 12, et pass. 
Shoso-in, 353. 
Shotoku Taishi, 84. 
Shozuka-no-Baba, 47. 
Shubun, 57. 
Shugaku-in, 340. 
Shukoku, 529. 
Shuri, 526. 
Shu-shu, 530. 
Shuzenji, 158. 
Shuzu, 435, 440. 
Siebold, Ph. yon, 447. 
Silk districts, 141, 173, 

191, 239, 244, 282, 348, 

478, 493, 525. 
Skating, 8. 169, 281. 
Ski-ing, 247. 
Smoking, 11, 378. 
Snow, 8, 9, 188, 246, 286, 

505. 
Sdami, 84. 
Sobetsu, 514. 
Sobo-san, 472. 
Sobu Railway, 216. 
Soeda, 457. 
Soga, 221. 
Soga brethren, 84, 150, 

229. 
Solfataras, 149, 185,215, 

267,448,483,502,517. 

528. 
Soma-yama, 183. 
Sone (Harima), 306. 
Sone (Kishu), 381. 
Sonobe, 383. 
Sonogi, 452. 
Sorachi-gawa, 515. 
Sori, 211. 
Sdrinto, 195, 336. 
Sosen, 58. 



SUSAKI 

South Cape, 531. 

" Southern Passage " 

(Inland Sea), 399. 
Soya, 515. 
Spaniards in Japan, 

523, 527. 
Spex straits, 401. 
Standard Oil Co., 247. 
Staten Island, 517. 
Steamer Routes, 242, 

397, 506, 518, 527. 
Steamers, 2, et pass. 
Stone slabs, 42. 
Subashiri, 164; 161, 

168. 
Sue-no-matsuyama, 484. 
Suganuma, 207. 
Sugar-cane, 230, 425, 

524, 527. 
Sugawara - no - Michiza- 

ne, 54, 454. 

Sugita, 107. 

Suhara, 256. 

Suitengu, 54, 125. 

Suizu, 389. 

Sukagawa, 209. 

Sukegawa, 222. 

Suketo, 423. 

Sukumo-gawa, 154. 

Sukuna Bikona, 54. 

Suma, 305. 

Sumida, 134. 

Sumi-no-mura, 429. 

Sumitomo, family, 433. 

Sumiyoshi (Kobe), 241. 

Sumiyoshi (Sakai), 310. 

Summer resorts, 9, 11, 
148-9, 154, 175, 180, 
305-6, 404, 448. 

Sumoto, 409 ; 408. 

Sunagawa, 515. 

Sun-goddess, see Ama- 
terasu. 

Su-no-saki, 219. 

Su-6, 531. 

Superstitions, 40, 42, 
125, 127, 135-6, 151, 
195, 197, 263, 281, 288, 
292, 293, 299, 300, 310, 
318, 326, 338, 340, 351, 
367, 376, 405, 532. 
| Sasaki (Tokyo), 136. 



TAKAHAMA 

Susaki (Tosa), 438. 
Susa-no-o, 54; 36, 381. 
Suttsu, 510. 
Suwa-yama, 304. 
Suwo Nada, 395, 400. 
Suyama, 161. 
Suzaka, 187. 
Suzuka-toge, 294. 
Suzukawa, 230 ; 161, 

170. 
Suzuya, 518. 
Swords, 60, 79, 236, 324, 

469. 



Tabata, 221. 
Tabayama, 277. 
Tachibana-ura, 440. 
Tachikawa, 140. 
Tada-ga-take, 387. 
Tadami-gawa, 212. 
Tado (Doro Hatcho), 

377; 372. 
Tadotsu, 426 ; 397. 
Taga-J6, 490. 
Tagawa-yu, 498. 
Tago-no-ura, 230. 
Taguchi (Echigo), 247. 
Taguchi (Miya), 464. 
Taichu, 529. 
Taihan-roku, 531. 
Taihoku, 528. 
Taiko Hideyoshi, 73. 
Taiko-kan, 529. 
Taiko-yama, 151. 
Tai-kyoku-den, 335. 
Tainan, 530. 
Tai-no-ura, 218. 
Taipeh, 528. 
Taira, family, 84, et 

pass. 
Taira (Iwaki), 223. 
Taisha, 414. 
Taishaku, 54. 
Taiwan, 526. 
Taiwan-fu, 530. 
Tajima (Iwashiro), 212. 
Tajimi, 255. 
Takaboko, 446. 
Takachiho-dake, 464. 
Takahama (Iyo), 430. 



552 



Index 



TAKAHAMA 

Takahama (Wakasa), 

387. 
Takahara, 213. 
Takahara-gawa, 259. 
Takahara-yama, 214. 
Takahira, 210. 
Taka-iwa, 449. 
Takama-no-hara, 217. 
Takamatsu, 426, 397. 
Takami, 399. 
Takami-t5ge, 365. 
Takamori, 472. 
Takanosu, 496. 
Takao, 530. 

Takao (courtesan), 213. 
Takaoka, 391 ; 270. 
Takao-zan (Kishu), 375. 
Takao-zan (Kyoto), 343. 
Takao-zan (Musashi), 

109, 140-1. 
Takara-zuka, 305. 
Takasago, 306. 
Takasaki, 173. 
Takase-gawa, 456. 
Takashima (Hizen), 448; 

401. 
Takata (Echigo), 247. 
Takata-no-Gobo, 292. 
Takato, 288. 
Takatori, castle, 359. 
Takatori faience, 455. 
Takauji, 84. 
Takayama, 259, 270. 
Takayu, 479. 
TakazaM-yama, 470, 

471. 
Take, 477. 
Takeda (Bungo), 469, 

472. 
Takeda Shingen, 84. 
Takedao, 305. 
Takefu, 389. 
Takehara, 403 ; 397. 
Takenouchi-no-Sukune, 

85. 
Takeo, 453 ; 452. 
Takeshita, 473. 
Takigawa, 515. 
Takihara Gu, 381 ; 297. 
Takimoto, 438. 
Takimnro-zaka, 469. 
TaM-no-miya, 426. 



Tales of Old Japan, 117, 

121, 145, 303. 
Tamagawa, 276; 110, 

140. 
Tamai-guchi, 377. 
Tamaki-san, 377. 
Tamano-gawa, 255. 
Tamarai, 469. 
Tamatsukuri, 414. 
Tambara, 169, 277. 
Tametomo, 85, 521, 525. 
Tamon, 43. 
Tamsui, 529. 
Tamuke-yama, 352. 
Tamuki, 498. 
Tamura Maro, 85, 333. 
Tanabe (Kishti), 375, 

382. 
Tanabe Sakuro, 345. 
Tanabu, 501. 
Tanashita, 210. 
Tane-ga-shima, 463. 
Tanigumi-dera, 240. 
Tanko Kail way, 513. 
Tanna-toge, 158. 
Ta-no-ura (Kagoshima), 

463. 
Ta-no-ura (Shimo-no- 

seki), 407. 
Tanuma, 190. 
Tanzawa, 109. 
Tarimo, 530. 
Tarobo, 164. 
Taro-zan, 208. 
Tarui, 227. 

Tarui (Wakayama), 311. 
Tarumai, 513. 
Tarumi, 476. 
Tarutama, 468. 
Tashiki Kwannon, 355. 
Tate, 519. 
Tateishi-zaki, 388. 
Tateno, 467. 
Tateoka, 494. 
Tateshina-yama, 283. 
Tateyama (Boshu), 219. 
Tateyama (Hida), 269; 

257. 
Tateyama Onsen, 267. 
Tatsumi, Cape, 463. 
Tatsuno, 282 ; 272, 289. 
Tatsuta, 356. 



TEN-YA-ZAKA 

Tawara-zaka, 459. 

Tea, 350 ; 232. 

Tea ceremonies, 77, 83, 
et pass. 

Tea-houses, 7. 

Tea-money, 6. 

Telegraphs, 4. 

Temiya, 511. 

Temmangu, 54, 135, 307. 

Tempai-zan, 454. 

Tempi-san, 222. 

Temples, Buddhist, 40, 
115, 129-33, 143, 153, 
171,218,231,237,245, 
275, 278, 292, 308-9, 
319 et seq., 328 et seq., 
345 et seq., 354 et seq., 
360,364,366,370,378, 
379,456,459,480,482, 
494, 509. 

Temples, Shinto, 37, 
296, 422; 231, 236, 282, 
292,310,318,346,351, 
359,365,373,376,378, 
379,381,415,427,446, 
454,455,459,464. 

Ten, 54. 

Ten Province Pass, 155- 
7. 

Tendo, 494; 481. 

Tenga-jaya, 310. 

Tengu, 55. 

Tenjin, god, 54. 

Tenjin, temples of, 54, 
135, 307, 318, 324, 
407. 

Tenjin-gawa, 418. 

Tenjin-toge, 182. 

Tenjin-yama (Kazusa), 
220. 

Tenjin-yama (Yamato), 
359. 

Tennin, 55. 
Tennoji, 308. 

Ten-no-kawa, 365, 372. 
Tenno-zan, 343. 
Tenryu-gawa, river, 289; 

235, 272. 
Tenryu-gawa, station, 

227, 289. 
Tenryu-ji, 321. 
Ten-ya-zaka, 457 



Index. 



553 



TERA-DOMAEI 

Tera-domari, 248. 

Terai, 389. 

Terute Hime, 82, 376. 

Teshima, 398. 

Tesshuji, 231. 

" Things Japanese" 2, et 

pass. 
Thirty-three Places 

Sacred to Kwannon, 

360, et pass. 
" Three Great Sights," 

see San-kei. 
Tidal waves, 160, 219, 

500. 
Time, standard, 14. 
Tips, 6, 7, 14. 
Toba, 300. 
Tobacco, 486 ; 378, 435, 

462,478. 
Toba-e, 57. 
Toba Sojo, 57. 
Tobe, 431. 
Tobetsu, 509. 
Tobi-shima, 499. 
Tochigi, 190. 
Tochinoki, 467, 472. 
Tochio, 248. 
Todaiji, 353. 
Todo-hokke, 509. 
Todoro, 473. 
TodorokL-no-taki, 440. 
Toen, 529. 
T6fuku-ji, 325. 
Togakushi-san, 250. 
Togawa, 446. 
Toge, 493. 
Togd, Admiral, 400, 463, 

474. 507. 
Togd-ike, 418. 
Toi, 158. 
Toji, 324. 
T6ji-in, 319. 
Tokachi, 515. 
Tokaido highway, 228; 

110, 154, 234, 292, 345. 
Tokaidd Railway, 227. 
Tokimata, 289 ; 273. 
Tokiwa Gozen, 76. 
Tokugawa dynasty, 74, 

115. 
Tokugo-toge, 263, 264. 
Tokura, 244. 



TOYABA-TOGE 

Tokushima, 424, 434, 

436. 
Tokuwa, 294. 
Tokuyama, 407 ; 397. 
Tokyo, 111. 
Tomakomai, 513. 
Tomari (Etchu), 388. 
Tomari (Kunashiri), 

517. 
Tomioka (Awa), 424. 
Tomioka (Kotsuke), 173. 
Tomioka (Yokohama), 

107. 
Tomita, 190. 
Tomiyama, 491. 
Tomizato, 436. 
Tomobe, 221. 
Tomotsu, 402 ; 397. 
Tonami, 501. 
Tonegawa, 478; 145, 

217. 
Tono, 501. 
Tono-hetsuri, 212. 
Tonoki, 283. 
Tonomine, 362. 
Tonosawa, 148. 
Tonosho, 402. 
Tora Gozen, 84, 150. 
Tori Busshi, 59. 
Toride, 222. 
Torigawa, 347. 
Torii, family, 58. 
Torii (gateway), 37, 95, 

324, 406. 
Torii-toge (Kusatsu), 

187. 
Torii T toge (Nakasendd), 

256. 
Tori-shima, 524. 
Toro, 516. 
Tosa paintings, 57. 
Tosa, province, 423. 
Toshima, 521. 
Toshi-mura, 301. 
Toshita, 467. 
Toshogu, 55, 120. 
Tosu, 453 ; 451, 458. 
Totomi, 235. 
Totsuka, 107. 
Tottori, 418. 
Towada, 496. 
Toyaba-toge, 489. 



TSUEUSAKI 

Toyama (Etchu), 391; 

265. 
Toyama (Nikko), 201. 
Toyohara, 518. 
Toyohashi, 235. 
Toyohira, river, 512. 
Toyokawa, 235. 
Tbyb Kisen Kwaisha, 2. 
Toyoknni, 59. 
Toyoknni - no - Yashiro, 

328. 
Toyono, 246 ; 187. 
Toyo-oka, 413. 
Toyoshina, 268. 
Toyo-uke-bime, 55. 
Toyo-nra, 407. 
Trappist, monks, 509. 
Tsn, 292. 

Tsubaknra-dake, 253. 
Tsubata, 390 ; 388. 
Tsuboi, Prof., 120, 142. 
Tsuchi-ura, 146, 222; 

217. 
Tsuchizaki, 495. 
Tsuchizawa, 501. 
Tsnda, 425. 
Tsuetate-toge, 287. 
Tsugaru, 485, 496. 
Tsugawa, 488. 
Tsuge, 294. 
Tsuitate, 469. 
Tsuji, 435. 
Tsukawa, 467. 
Tsuki-ga-se, 294. 
Tsnkiji, 136. 
Tsnkinoki, 480. 
Tsuknba-san, 145. 
Tsukue, 412 ; 408. 
Tsumago, 255, 289. 
Tsuna-ga-taira, 263. 
Tsunagi, 483. 
Tsunomine, 424. 
Tsurayuki, 85. 
Tsuri-bashi, 278. 
Tsuruga, 388 ; 2. 
Tsuru-ga-oka, 497 ; 489. 
Tsurngi, 270. 
Tsurugi-dake, 391. 
Tsuruma-gawa, 212. 
Tsunimi, 110. 
Tsurumi-dake, 471. 
Tsurusaki, 472, 473. 



554 



Index. 



TSUSHIMA 

Tsushima, 474. 
Tsuyama (Mimasaka), 

414. 
Tsuzumi-ga-taki, 305. 
Tumuli, 358; 120, 311, 

345,356,363,411,425. 
Tuscarora Deep, 500. 
Twatutia, 528. 
Twenty-eight Followers 

of Kwannon, 50. 
Twenty-five Bosatsu, 

44. 

u 

Uba-ga-mori, 363. 
Ubago, 151. 
Ubaguchi, 169. 
Uchimura, 452. 
Uchinoko, 436. 
Ueda (Iwaki), 223. 
Ueda (Shinshu), 244. 
Ueno (Tga), 294. 
Ueno (Tokyo), 126. 
Ueno-hara, 274. 
Uesugi Kenshin, 85; 

84. 
Ugui, 379. 
Uji (Ise), 300. 
Uji (Yamashiro), 350. 
Ujina, 404; 397. 
Ukitsu, 441. 
L T kiyo-e, 58. 

Uma-gaeshi (Fuji), 164. 
Uma-gaeshi (Nikko), 

204. 
Uma-oroshi, 488. 
Umeda, 307. 
Umijiri (Hakone), 151. 
Umijiri (Shinshu), 283. 
Umi-no-Kuchi, 283. 
Unebi, 357. 
Unebi-yama, 358. 
Universities, 125, 318, 

340, 512. 
Unkei, 59, 86, 104, 326. 
Unomachi, 436. 
Unzen, 448 ; 9, 450. 
Uomi, 157. 
Uozu, 391. 
Uozumi, 469. 
Uraga, 106. 



WAKAMATSU 

Urai, 528. 
Urakami, 447. 
Ura-mawari, 386, 
Urami, 202. 
Ura-mukai, 372. 
Urase, 248. 
Urashima Taro, 86, 256, 

387. 
Urawa, 172. 
Ureshino, 452. 
Urushi-jinja, 489. 
Usa, 471. 
Ushibuka, 466. 
Ushibuse, 158, 230. 
Usu-dake, 414. 
Usui-toge, 175. 
Usuki, 473. 
Utagawa, family, 59. 
Utamaro, 58. 
Uto, 458. 

Utsu-no-miya, 478 ; 192. 
Uwajima, 437 ; 397, 441. 
Uzumasa, 321. 
Uzume, 55. 
Uzura, 509. 



Yieth, W., Pref. 
Yladimirofka, 518. 
Vladivostok, 2, 388. 
Volcano Bay, 510, 514. 
Volcano Islands, 522. 
Volcanoes, 163, 177, 186, 

208,215,464,467,479, 

483,486,508,511, 513, 

514, 516, 521. 
Vries Island, 521. 
Vries, Capt. Martin, 

517, 521. 

W 

Wada (Koshu), 275. 
Wada (Wakasa), 386. 
Wadahama, 429. 
Wada-toge, 282. 
Wadayama, 413, 419. 
Wakamatsu ( Aizu), 486 ; 

212. 
Wakamatsu (Chikuzen), 

455. 



YAGI-SHIMA 

Waka-no-ura, 312. 

Wakasa, province, 387. 

Wakasare, 177. 

Wakayama, 311, 371. 

Wake, 396. 

Wakimachi, 436. 

Wakinosawa, 501. 

Wakkanai, 515. 

Wakura, 390. 

Wami-toge, 176, 179. 

Wanishi, 514. 

Washio-yama, 438. 

Watarase-gawa, 191, 
210. 

Watari, 462. 

Waterfalls, 170, 182, 192, 
202,205,207,214,230, 
239,303,379,407,409, 
414,436,437,438,440, 
454,468,469,473,496, 
498,509. 

Wax (tree), 453, 457. 

Weights and Measures, 
4, 162-3. 

Welcome Society, 4, 111. 

West Coast, 391, 396, 
420,425; 8. 

Weston, Eev. Walter, 
Pref., 264, 265, 287. 

Whaling, 249, 387, 443. 

Whitney, Dr. N., 5. 

Wistarias, 114, 135. 

Wrestling, 111, 134. 



Xavier, St. Francis, 
407, 470. 



Yabakei, 456, 458. 
Yabekawa, 459. 
Yabuhara, 256. 
Yabuki, 478. 
Yachigashira, 506. 
Y^aeyama, 525. 
Yagami, 447. 
Yagi (Awaji), 410. 
Yagi (Echigo), 248. 
Yagi (Tamba), 383. 
Yagi-shima, 524. 



Index. 



555 



YAGOBE-ZAEA. 

Yagobe-zaka, 469. 
Yahagi-gawa, 235. 
Y^ainai-chd, 362. 
Yaita, 478. 
Yake-dake-toge, 262. 
Yake-yama, 508. 
Yakushi Nyorai, 55. 
Yakushi-ji, 356. 
Yakushima, 463. 
Yakyu Iiiari, 143. 
Yamada (Ise), 295. 
Yamada (Kikuchu), 500. 
Yamagawa, 465. 
Y T amabushi sect, 183, 

457. 
Y T amada Nagamasa, 234. 
Yamada (Yezo), 511. 
Y'ama-dera, 494. 
Yamadori, 491. 
Y r amagata (Iwashiro), 

485. 
Yamagata (Uzen), 494, 

498. 
Yamaguchi Onsen, 184. 
Yamaguchi (Suwo), 407, 

417. 
YamaMta, 229. 
Yama-naka (Kaga), 389. 
Yamakuni-gawa, 456. 
Yamanobo, 267. 
Yamashina, 241, 345. 
Yamashixo, spa, 389. 
Y^amato, province, 357, 

371, ei^ pass. 
Y^amato-meguri, 362. 
Yamatotake, 86, 175, et 

pass. 
YamazaM, 343. 
Yamura, 274. 
Yanagawa, 459. 
Y'anagizawa-toge, 277. 
Yanai, 406 ; 397. 
Yari-ga-take, 264 ; 257. 
Yasaka (Gion), 333 ; 54. 
Yasaka (Pagoda), 332. 
Yase, 342. 
Yashima, 426. 
Yashiro, 245. 
Yasukuni Jinja, 122. 
Yasumiya, 484, 496. 
Yatake, 462. 
Yatomi, 292. 



Yatsu-ga-take, 284. 
Yatsushiro, 461. 
Yawata, god, 47. 
Yawata-machi, 455. 
Yawata-san, 343. 
" Year-names," 63, 64. 
Yedo, 111, et pass. 
Yezo, 515 ; 9, 11. 
Yobuko, 400. 
Yodogawa, 344. 
Yoichi, 511. 
Yoka, 413, 419. 
Yoka-ichiba, 283. 
Yokkaichi, 292. 
Yokobori (Kotsuke), 189. 
Y^okobori (Ugo), 495. 
Yokogawa, 174. 
Y"oko-gawara, 432. 
Yokohama (Musashi), 

99 ; 2, 8. 
Yokohama (Tonami), 

501. 
Yoko-o-dake, 284. 
Yoko-o-dani, 264. 
Yokosuka, 106. 
Yokote,495; 482. 
Yokotsu-dake, 508. 
Yokoyama, 498. 
Yonago, 414, 418. 
Yonezawa, 493. 
Yoritomo, 86, et pass. 
Yoro, 239. 
Yose, 109. 
Yoshida (Fuji), 165; 

161, 168, 274, 283. 
Yoshida (Iwaki), 223. 
Yoshida (Iyo), 437. 
Yoshi-ga-hira, 248. 
Yoshihama, 155, 156. 
Yoshimasa, 86. 
Yoshimatsu, 462. 
Yoshino, 364. 
Yoshino-ga wa ( Shikoku ) , 

434, 439. 
Yoshino-ga wa ( Yamato), 

363. 
Yoshino-gnchi, 365. 
Yoshino-yama, 463. 
Yoshitsune, 86, et pass. 
Yoshiwara (Tokyo), 133. 
Yoshizuka^ 455. 
Yotsuya (Orenge), 268. 



Yuasa, 374, 382. 
Yn-Atsumi, 489. 
Yubara, 188. 
Yubari, 513. 
Ynbari-yama, 515. 
Yubiso, 188. 
Yuda, 407. 
Yudanaka, 187. 
Yudono-san, 498. 
Yugano, 159. 
Yugashima, 159. 
Yugawara, 157 ; 155. 
Yugyo-dera, 229. 
Yui-ga-hama, 102. 
Yujima, 285. 
Yukuhashi, 456, 457. 
Ynmoto (Hakone), 148. 
Yumoto (Hakusan), 270. 
Yumoto (Iwaki), 223. 
Yumoto (Mkko), 206. 
Yumoto(Tateyama),267. 
Yumura, 419. 
Yu-no-hana-zawa, 150. 
Yunokawa, 506. 
Yunomine, 375. 
Y r unosawa, 507. 
Yunotani, 468. 
Yura ( Awaji), 409 ; 243. 
Yura (Hoki), 418. 
Yura (Kishu), 374. 
Yura (Tango), 386, 387. 
Yuragawa, 383, 387. 
Yusawa, 495. 
Yushima, see Kinosaki. 
Yusubaru, 457. 
Yushu-kwan, 122. 
Yuzaki, 375. 
Yuzawa, 189. 



Zara-goe, 266. 
ZenM, 372. 
Zenkoji, 245. 
Zeze, 346. 
Zojoji, 119 ; 115. 
Zoology, 129, 257, 335, 

371, 374, 505, 518, 

524. 
Zo-6-san, 479. 
Zozu-san, 427, 429. 



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Advertisements. 



fie Grand Hotel Ltd 



YOKOHAMA 



Telegraphic Address 
" GRAND " 



H. E. MANWARING 
Manager 



THE HOTEL WITH AN 
INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION 

SITUATED ON THE BUND, THE CHOICEST LOCATION 

The Terrace Lounge Commands 

an Unbroken View of the 

Harbor and Bay 



Superior Cuisine and Service 

Filipino Orchestra Every Evening 

ROOMS SINGLE OR EN SUITE, 

WITH OR WITHOUT BATH 

Omnibus and Porter Meet All Express Trains 

Steam Launch and Porter Meet All Steamers 



Advertisements. 






The Club Hote 

(LIMITED) 
No. 5, YOKOHAMA 



Telephone No. 446 (Long Distance) 



-*. 




SITUATED in the best position on the Bund, commanding 
a Fine View of the Harbour, and five minutes' 

walk from the landing pier. Well-furnished with all 
Home comforts. The Ctlisifte is in charge of an ex- 
perienced Chef, and cannot be surpassed. 

Capt. Jackson, D.S.O., in his "Jaunt in Japan," says: — 
"We eventually reached Yokohama, where we forgot the damp 
and discomfort of the journey before a good fire and a good 
dinner at the comfortable Club Hotel," and again " We found 
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where we stayed on each of the three occasions we visited 



Yokohama." 



Moderate Rates 

GOOD SERVICE 

Tte 1st How Hotel 

in YOKOHAMA 



The Company* s Steam. Launch- 



Carries Visitors and their baggage to and from all 
Steamers arriving in the harbour, and the Agent 
attends to all Customs formalities for clearing 
baggage, saving visitors all trouble in that respect. 



J 



Advertisements. 



TIjg Host Antral and gogyeriigiit of any HOTEL. 



» WRIGHT'S HOTEL * 



TERMS ; Yen 4.00 to 6.00 



This FIRST=CLASS HOTEL is one minute's walk from the Landing 
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zero. 40 ; "3TOe:o:e3:.a.:m:-A-. 

A/ITS. F. L. Pyne, Proprietress. 

*.' Let me recommend to the travelling public Wright's Hotel, situated 
" close to the sea and the principal public offices * * * Clean, neat, comfort- 
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" merely an acknowledgement of kindness received and comfort enjoyed." 

G. C. Murray 

in " The Land of the Tat ami" 



THE 



ROYAL HOTEL 60, Ltd, 






ALL MODERN COMFORTS. (Central Situation.) 



European Plan. From Y 2.00 per day. 
American Plan. „ Y U.00 „ 

PACKING, FORWARDING, SHIPPING & EXPRESS 

- - ^ O E N T S - - 
IN ALL PRINCIPAL CITIES AND PORTS OF THE WORLD 

H. MacArthur <& Co. 

PHONE 7 6 9 10 Bund, Yokohama. p. o. Box. 14 9 

europe and AMERICAN EXPRESS Co. united states 

GRINDLAY & Co. 

liONDON. 
GOODS FORWARDED C. O. D. or PREPAID AS REQUIRED 

ESTABLISHED 1877 



Advertisements. 



Hoikoi & Iiwm Bun Gqhporhtion. 



PAID-UP CAPITAL - 






- $15,000,000 


RESERVE FUND:- 








STERLING RESERVE - @2/- 


^'OOJOOOl $32) oo 0l OOO 
17, 000,000 i 


SILVER RESERVE 


- 


RESERVE LIABILITY OF PROPRIETORS 


- $15,000,000 


HEAD ( 


DFFICE : 


HONGKONG 


UEF MANAGER - - 


• 


N. y. Stabb, £ 


BRANCHES & 


AGENCIES 


Amoy 


Tj)oh 




Penang 


Bangkok 


Johore 




Kangoon 


Batavia 


Kobe 




Saigon 


Bombay 


Kuala Lumpur 


San Francisco 


Calcutta 


London 




Shanghai 


Canton 


Lyons 




Singapore 


Colombo 


Malacca 




Sourabaya 


Foochow 


Manila 




Tientsin 


Hamburg 


Nagasaki 




Yloiio 


Hankow 


New York 




Yokohama 


Honkew (Shanghai) 


Peking 







I 



LONDON & COUNTY BANKING Co,, Ld. 

- EVERY DESCRIPTION OF EXCHANGE AND GENERAL 
BANKING BUSINESS TRANSACTED 



fl 
tt 



R. T. Wright, Manager. 

YOKOHAMA 



6 




Advertisements. 




CI 

- of - 


SART 

INDIA, i 

(INCORPO 

AL 

RVE FUND - 

AGSN 

Foochow 

Hamburg 

Hankow 

Hongkong 

Iloilo 

Ipoh 

Karachi 

Klang 

Kobe 


'ERED BANK 

kXJSTRALIA, - and - CHINA 
RATED BY ROYAL CHARTER) 


capii 

RESE 


» ' B' B B ■ B 


£ 1,200,000 
£ 1,650,000 


Amritsar 
Bangkok 
Batavia 
Bombay- 
Calcutta 
Canton 
Cebu 
Colombo 
Delhi 


CXES AND BBAHCHES 

Kuala Lumpor 

Madras 

Malacca 

Manila 

Medan 

New York 

Penang 

Puket 

Rangoon 


Saigon 

Seremban 

Shanghai 

Singapore 

Sourabaya 

Taiping 

Tientsin 

Yokohama 



$0- 



THE BANK OF ENGLAND. 

THE LONDON CITY AND MIDLAND BANK, Limited. 
THE NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND, Limited. 



THE Corporation grant Drafts payable at the above Agencies and Branches, buy and 
collect Bills of Exchange, issue Letters of Credit, and transact general Banking 
business connected with the East. 

G- MIXiLER, Manager, Yokohama. 



THQ 

T0UEIST, 



i. COOK & SOI 

STEAMSHIP & FORWARDING AGENTS, 
BANKERS, ETC. 



THOURS arranged and tickets issued to 
all parts of the world. 

As PASSENGER AGENTS of the 

IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS OF JAPAN, 

THE BUREAU OF RAILWAYS, CHOSEN (KOREA), 

SOUTH MANCHURIA k CHINESE GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS, 

we have exceptional facilities for arranging Tours and providing for every 
possible contingency connected with travel in Japan, Chosen and China. 
Our INCLUSIVE TOURS with or without Guide, offer many unique 
features, relieving the Traveller of all trouble and anxiety as to details, 
while the exact cost is known beforehand. 

Itineraries & Estimates submitted GRATIS. 

LETTERS OF CREDIT, CIRCULAR NOTES & 

TRAVELLERS' CHECKS issued and cashed. 

BAGGAGE & GOODS RECEIVED, SHIPPED, STORED & INSURED. 

32 Water Street, YOKOHAMA. 

Ciaief Office, ILudgate Circus, IfONTDOff, 



Advertisements. 



TOYO KISEN KAISHA 

(ORIENTAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY) 



HEAD OFFICE: TOKYO. 

BRANCH OFFICES : Yokohama, Kobe, Hongkong & San Francisco, 
AGENCIES: — At the respective ports of call and in all important 
cities of the world. 




SAN FRANCISCO-HONGKONG LINE 

Via Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki and Shanghai (or Manila) 
The Finest and Fastest Fleet on the Pacific 

Disp't Tonnage Speed 

S.S, "TEN YO MARL) " Triple Screw Turbine 22,000 21 Knots 

S.S." "CHIYO MARU" » », „ 22,000 21 „ 

S.S. "SHINYO MARU" « » » 22,000 21 „ 

S.S. "NIPPON MARU" „ „ „ 11,000 18 „ 



SOUTH AMERICAN LINE 

Between Hongkong, Moji, Kobe, Yokohama, Honolulu, Manzanillo, 
Salina Cruz, Oallao, Iquique and Valparaiso 

The only Regular Service from the Orient to the 
Flourishing Countries of South America 





Disp't Tonnage 




Speed 


S.S. "KlYO MARU" 


17,200 


14 


Knots 


S.S. "HONGKONG MARU" 


11,000 


18 


,, 


S.S. "BUYO MARU" 


10,500 


13 


M 



Advertisements. 



By Special Appointment to the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD DEPARTMENT 




my 



ER, 
LSENER 



AND 



ALE 

The Oldest and most 

tamed Brewery in 

the East. 



j Won the Highest 
Medals at all 
Exhibitions. 



KIBiH BBEWEBT 00., LTD. 

YOKOHAMA 



Advertisements. 



ELY & WALSH, LTD. 

DOOK^ELLER^, PuBLI^tlEt^S, J3TATIONEE.5 



THE LATEST 

ENGLISH & AMERICAN BOOKS 

ARRIVE BY EVERY MAIL 

BOOKS Oi JHPBM H SPEBIBUH 



''al'-'.il 1 "', ,!'"•, il'".,!l"' 



AGENT FOR 

THE ASIATIC SOCIEY OF JAPAN 



KOBE AGENT 

J. L. THOMPSON & CO. 



NAGASAKI AGENT 

P. D. LESSNER 



YOKOHAMA 

IVo. GO Main Street 

THE BUND, SHANGHAI | CHATER ROAD, HONGKONG 

RAFFLES SQUARE, SINGAPORE 



10 A dvertiserrients. 



TIE TIII1III IIUE1T CO., LSI 

P.O. BOX 72. 

21-35, Nakamura, Yokohama. 



Landscape Garden Architects. 
Florists and General Horticulturists. 

BOUQUETS, BASKETS, WREATHS, AND OTHER 
ARTISTIC DECORATIONS. 

Large Stock of 

SHRUBS, TREES, BULBS, FERN BALLS, 
DWARFED TREES, AND SEEDS 

IRIS GARDENS:— 

At Kamata, near Kawasaki. 
SPECIALITY 

LILY-BULBS 

AND 

NURSERY STOCKS. 




BRANCH OFF ICES: ~Sl£k Registered Cable Addresses: 

"" — " — "~ — "" J^S^^BL "Uyekigumi, Yokohama." 

31, Barclay St^New York, ^JB S m^m ^ « Suzuki, New York." 

London: Craven Mouse, '\ ^'JfiBBlfe " Tigrinum, London." 

Kingsway, W.C. j&tsr i&b* mmsru. 

" • - ^ A. B. C. Code 4th and 5th 
Edition, and 



Telephone No. 509. fBBHll Western Union T. Code. 



Silver Clips awarded by the Royal Horticultural Society and 
IMploma of tlie ANGLO-JAPANESE EXHIBITION 1910. 



Advertisements. 1 1 



EST'D 1835 

TEL. No. 2970 




gyj vCoo 

the BE$¥ P01^FI^I¥ 



■ PP0¥06^PPE^ in the FAR EAST 

32— WATER ST., Yokohama —32 """" 



KODAK WORKS FINISHED AT MODERATE CHARGES 



PHOTO SOUVENIRS FOR SALE 



The WEEKLY 

Box of Curios 

yo:eco:e3:_a_:m:^ 

A Weekly Journal of CURRENT TOPICS and EVENTS HAPPENING 

in Japan. (Illustrated). 

A BECOKB OP HAPPENINGS SUITABLE TO MAIL HOME. 



Published Every Saturday Morning. 
Offices: 61 Yainashita-cho, Yokohama. 



Japan Tourist Bureau 

HEAD OFFICE 
IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS BUILDING 

TOKYO 

Cable Address: "TOURIST" TOKYO 

BBAXCH OFFICES : DAIREN, South Manchuria Railway Building. 
SEOUL, Chosen Railway Building, Ryuzan. 
TAIPEH, Railway Hotel, Taipeh. 

IXQUIHY OFFICES: KOBE, 2 Itchome, Kaigandori, Kobe. 

SHIMON OSEKI, Sanyo Hotel, Shimonoseki. 



AFFORDS SPECIAL FACILITIES TO FOREIGN TOURISTS 



Gives gratis Pceliable Information regarding Tours, Hotels, Shops, 
Expenses, Transportation, &c. 

LIBRARY : Books on Japan in English, French, and German ; Photographs, Maps, 
Guide Books, Folders, Pamphlets, etc. issued by the Railways, S. S. Companies, Hotels, 
Shops, etc. ; Foreign Magazines and Newspapers. 



12 



Advertisements. 



IMPERIAL HOTEL 

TOKYO 

CABLE ADDBESS "iMPEHO" TOICTZ'O 




IS THE ONLY HOTEL IN JAPAN 

IN WHICH THE CHIEF SHAREHOLDER 

IS H.l.J.M.'S HOUSEHOLD. 

9 3 3 

home: for tourists 

social centre of 
the capital 
rooms en suite or single 

'with or without bath 

IMPERIAL HOTEL, LTJD. 

Aisaku Hayashi— Managing Dibectob 



Advertisements. 



13 




TOKEN hotel 




EST. 1869 



REBUILT 1911 



€lfI^OPEAN AND flMEI^IGAN J?LAN 

UNDER THE PATRONAGE I.H.H. 

AND FOREIGN EMBASSIES 

IDEAL LOCATION IN THE 

HEART OF GAPITAL 

ROOMS SINGLE OR EN SUITE 

WITH OR WITHOUT BATH 



BRANCHES 



UYENO SBIYOKEN HOTEL UYEN0 PARK ' 



UYENO, TOKIO. 



MATSUSHIMA HOTEL MAT sK'. MA ' 



14 Advertisements. 



TOKYO HOTEL 



ATAGO HILL PARK, TOKYO, JAPAN. 

Telephone No. 916 Shiba. 



T 



HIS FIRST CLASS HOTEL, delightfully 
situated on the famous ATAGO HILL 
PARK and facing the bay of Tokyo, 
commands a grand panoramic view of 
the whole Metropolis and its vicinity. 



Only Five Minutes from SHIMBASH1 STATION. 



SAKAMAKI SHOW, Proprietor. 




Hotel Central 

12, Tsukiji Tokyo. 



^W(kM( NDER the personal management of the proprietor 
I } and his wife. 



<%&& Moderate Rates ^ ^f 



The Only HOTEL in TOKYO under 

EUROPEAN Supervision 



HIGHLY COMMENDED 



Irvine Williams 

TEL. No. Kyobashi 489 Proprietor 



Advertisements. 15 



[rand Restaurant Francais 

9. M1NAMI KINROKU-CHO, GiNZA, KYOBASHIKU, JTOKYO. 

(Over the Bridge from Shimbashi Station) 



Tlje only Foreign Restaurant 
in the Capital ~ ~ ~ ~ 



44 Strictly First Class" 

TELEPHONE 16 81, Shimbas'.ii. 

ILadlslas Cotte, Proprietor 



Publisher ac A &t printer/ 



JAPANESE FAIRY TALES, POEMS, ETC. 

IN ENGLISH, FKENCH AND GEKMAN 

Pictures from Coloured Woodcuts 

REPRODUCTIONS OF OLD PRINTS 
ARTISTIC CALENDARS 

PICTURE POSTCARDS, ETC. 



EXHIBIT-GALLERY: 17, Kami Negishi, 
near Uyeno Park, TOKYO 



16 



Advertisements. 



FLEET 

350,000 tons Gross 



N 




TOZsTZLsTJ^GKE 

80 Vessels 



IPPON f USEN KaISHA. 

(Japan Mai! Steamship Co.) 



TOKYO, JAPAN. 

TELEPHONE: 

" HONKYOKU" 

No. 4201. 

No. 4202. 

No. 4203. 

No. 4204. 

No. 4205. 

No. 4206. 

Telegraphic 
Address • 
"MORIOKA" 




4 Lloyds Avenue, 
LONDON, E, C. 

Telegraphic 
Address : 

"YUSENKAI" 



Regular Services of 
Imperial Japanese Mail Steamship Lines. 

European Line , Fortnightly. 

American Line Fortnightly. 

Australian Line Four-Weekly. 

Bombay Line Fortnightly. 

Calcutta Line Fortnightly. 

Yokohama-Shanghai Line .Twice a Week. 

Kobe-Vladivostock Line Three- Weekly. 

Kobe-North China (Direct Service) Line Every 6 Days. 

Yokohama-North China Line Thrice Five Weeks. 

Kobe-Keelung Line Four Times a Month. 

Kobe-Otaru Line Thrice a Week. 

Yokohama-Formosa Line Four Times a Month. 

YOKOHAMA-BONIN ISLANDS (VlA HaCHIJO ISLAND) LlNE MONTHLY. 

Yokohama-Bonin Islands (Direct Service) Line Six Times a Year. 

awomori-muroran llne every day. 

Hakodate-Karafuto Line Five Times a Month. 

Hakodate-Yetorofu Line Three Times a Month. 

Hakodate-Abashiri Line Three Times a Month. 

Otabu-Wakkanai Line , . Five Times a Month. 

Otaru-Abashiri Line Seven Times a Month. 



Branches & Agencies in Principal Ports of the World, 



Advertisements. 



17 



TUB fflamzeR-KaDusftlil-Kalelia 

(Z. P, MARUYA & CO., LTD.) 



PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND STATIONERS 

HEAD OFFICE: 

Nihonbashi 
Tori-Sanchome 

TOKYO 




BRANCHES : 

Shinsaibashi-Suji 
Bakuromachi 



TOKYO HEAD OFFICE 



Sanjodori 
Fuya-cho 

KYOTO 



THE LARGEST and OLDEST Publishers and Importers of Foreign 
Books and Stationery in the East. 

AGENTS for the East of leading Publishers and Stationers throughout 
the World. 

WRITE US :— We can get for you any 
Book in any Language, no matter 
on what subject. 

When in Tokyo, call and see our large collection on Exhibition in Show Rooms. 



18 



Advertisements, 




Advertisements* 



19 





:M!TSUKOSH! DEPTiSTORE. Suruga-cho, Tokyo, Japan. 

Ths Largesi Store in the Far East 



M 



I T S U K O S H I is the oldest Dep't store 
in Japan, with a thoroughly up-to-date 
system. Foreign Visitors are invited to 
see this magnificent establishment, which 
will surely astonish and please them. 



DEP'TS:- SILK, COTTON AND 
FANCY GOODS, JEWELLERY, TOILET 
ARTICLES, STATIONERY, TOYS, 
FURNITURE, Etc., Etc., with 

SPECIAL ATTRACTIONS FOR FOREIGNERS :— 

Japanese Tea Room (served on request free). One Hour 
Finish Photo, Kimono and Foreign Dress Dep't. 



20 



Advertisements. 



'SHISEI-DO- (A. N. Fukuhara.) 

1, Izumo-cho, Ginza, TOKYO. Teh swmbashi 324 



PRESCRIPTIONS carefully made 
by fully qualified chemists. 
Foreign and Japanese M£DI< 
CINES and DRUGS of 
the best quality. 
PERFUMERY AJ D 
TOILET ARTI- 
CLES, also our 
famous TOOTH 
PASTE 



o 



< 



.0- 



§ 



& 




X> 



v 



G 



v 



Of 






AMERICAN 
ICE-OREAM 
SODA. 



Don't forget when you come 
to Tokyo to have a refreshing 
drink of Soda at the Shisei-do, one 
block north of Shimbashi Bridge. 



TWENTY VARIETIES. 
EXQUISITE MIXTURES. 



Advertisements. 21 



<$' 



MIYANOS 




13SO ft. Above the Seal-Level 
ONLY 4 HOURS FROM YOKOHAMA. 

NATURAL HOT water from the 

SPRINGS laid on in all the Buildings. 

Rooms single or en suite, with or without bath 
Every Home Comfort. 

Large Swimming Bath. 

Library. Beautiful Walks. 



S. N. YAMACUCHI . . . President. 
H. S. YAMAGUCHI . . . Manager. 



S. SHIMA 

Portraits taken in every size. 
ALL THE FAVOURITE VIEWS ON HAND, COLOURED & UNCOLOURED 

PHOTOGRAPHS OF NATIVE COSTUMES IN GREAT VARIETY 

* ALBUMS # 

&l ENLARGEMENTS CAREFULLY EXECUTED. 



Close to the FVJIYA HOTEL, Miyanoshita. 



§' 

a 



22 Advertisements. 



KANAYA HOTEL 

NlltliO 

A% HOURS BY RAIL FROM TOKYO 

Private Telephone connects with Lake-Side Hotel 

LAKE-SIDE HOTEL 

LAKE CffUZEMJI 

NINE MILES FROM NXKKO 

FUJIYA HOTEL 

MIYANQSHITA 

FOUR HOURS FROM YOKOHAMA 



•% # M * -r ^ 

HE OTOGAWA HOTEL 

"FUYOKAKU" 

YOSHIDA, Koshu, Japan. 

Tel. No. 3 OTo^hida.) 

^LECTRIC §IGHT, §?XCELLENT fuiSINE 

Most conveniently located for Visitors to 
Lake Shoji & Mt. Fuji. 

Unrivalled View of Fuji from Every Room 

2,700 ft. above Sea Level 

PATRONIZED BY THE FOREIGN EMBASSIES 

m £ w m m x m 



Advertisements. 



23 



s> 



f/ 8. HOS 



"ASAKAWA" 



Courier for Japan & Surroundings 




Graduate of the Kelo University 

Official Representative in Japan for Mr. W.H. Taft (1905) 
Expert English and French Translator 




Cable Address : — 

"SHINOSAKI", YOKOHAMA. 



Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, 

Hongkong. 

Sirs : — 

I have much pleasure in writing 
to tell you how completely satisfied I 
have been with every detail of my 
fortnight's tour as arranged by Mr. 

Shinosaki, , and I can 

not imagine any more satisfactory 
guide for accompanying visitors to 
Japan. 

Believe me, 

Yours faithfully, 

Francis G. Arnoutd, 
Grindlay & Co., 
LONDON. 



For further information apply to "424 Kitagata, Yokohama, Japan." 



24 



Advertisements. 



TOR HOTEL 



IBCOIBIE., CTJi-iPJ^JSr. 



KOBE 9 ® EA.MOTTS HOTEL ! ! ! 



: : 



^^m. 




FIRST GLASS in all its Appointments 

Private Automobiles, (£L Garage 
Every Room has Private Batti 

Orchestra ------ 



SITUATED ON THE HILL, THE CHOICEST LOCATION. 
SUPERIOR CUISINE AND SERVICE. 



BEUTIFUL LARGE GARDENS. 

EUROPEAN MANAGEMENT. 



Send Cable "TOR, KOBE" and the AUTOMOBILE will meet you 



Advertisements. 



25 



. MATSUMOTO I CO. 



EMBROIDERED, 
DRAWN WORK, 
PAINTED AND 
PLAIN SILK 

Bed Spreads. 
Blouses. 
Cushion Covers. 



Pyjamas, 

Scarfs. 

Screens. 

Shawls. 

Shirts. 

Socks & Stockings. 

Table Cloths. 

Tea Cosies. 



DAMASCENE 

Belts. 
Bracelets. 
Brooches. 
Cigarette Cases. 
Cuff Links. 
Match Boxes. 
Necklaces. 
Scarf Pins 



MAIL ORDERS 



:AND: 



silk mm 



Dressing Gowns. 


Cotton Crapes, 


Dress Materials. 


Linen Goods, 


Gloves. 


Ivory Wares, 


Hand Bags. 

Handkerchief. 

Kimonos. 


Leather Wares, 
Satsuma Porcelain, 


Mandarin Coats. 


Silver Wares, 


Xeckties. 


Japanese Dolls, 


Parasols, 


Etc., Etc. 



No. 340, M0T0MACHI, 3-CHOME, KOBE. 



Advertisements. 




THE first mineral water to be bottled in Japan 
was " Reyneirs" HIRANO (30 years ago) ; 
The first table water in public favour today is 

"Reynell's" HIRANO. 

Obtainable at all 

FIRST CLASS HOTELS. 

Ask for "ReyneSPs" HIRANO and see that 
you get the genuine article. 

BOTTLED ZB-5T 

THE 111 iniNEBflL WATER CO., LI. 

Head Office: KOBE, JAPAN 

JAPAN WEEKLY CHRONICLE 

PUBLISHED EVERY FRIDAY 

IS THE MOST COMPLETE AND MOST RELIABLE RECORD OF CURRENT AFFAIRS 
IN JAPAN, KOREA, AND THE FAR EAST. 

Commercial News and Exclusive Articles 
on Japanese Affairs a Special Feature. 

The WEEKLY CHRONICLE forms a cheap, handy, and 
reliable record of the political, commercial, and general 
news of Japan, Korea, Formosa, etc., and is specially 
suited for mailing in order to keep people abroad 
informed of Japanese and Far Eastern Affairs - - - 

Price - « - 25 Sen. 



Annual Subscription - - Y 10 ($5 Gold) 

POSTAGE to Europe and America, Y 3 ($ 1.50) extra 



SPECIMEN COPY ON APPLICATION TO 
The Manager, "JAPAN CHRONICLE," Kobe, Japan. 



Advertisements* 27 




Osaka Shosen Kaisha 

(OSAKA MERCANTILE S. S. CO.) 



HEAD OFFICE: OSAKA, JAPAN 
BRANCHES: OSAKA, KOBE, Ac. 

REGULAR STEAMSHIP SERVICES 

Hongkong Tacoma Line via Japan ports Fortnightly (Calls at 

Manila and Shanghai 
alternately). 

Tsuruga-Vladivostock Line Weekly. 

Osaka, Kobe, Moji, Dairen Line Semi-Weekly. 

Osaka, Kobe, Moji, Tientsin Line About 4 times a Month. 

Kobe, Moji, Keelung (Formosa) Line 4 times a Month. 

Nagasaki, Chemulpo, Dairen Line via ports 4 times a Month. 

Yokohama-Takao (Formosa) Line via ports 8 times a Month. 

Otaru-Vladivostock Line 3 times a Month. 

Formosa Coasting Lines 9 times a Month. 

Hongkong, Swatow, Amoy, Tamsui (Formosa) Line Weekly. 

Canton, Hongkong, Swatow, Amoy, Anping (Formosa), 

Takao (Formosa) Line , Fortnightly. 

Tientsin, Dairen, Shanghai, Foochow, Keelung (Formosa), 

Takao (Formosa) Line 2 times a Month. 

Hongkong, Swatow, Amoy, Foochow Line Fortnightly. 

Osaka, Kobe, Chemulpo Line, via ports 3 times a Week. 

Osaka, Kobe, Moji, Antung Line via ports About 4 times a Month. 

Osaka, Kobe, Moji, Seishin Line, via Korean East Coast. . . .4 times a Month. 

Otaru-Saghalien Ports Line 3 times a Month. 

&c. &c. &c. 

ALSO, daily INLAND SEA SERVICE connects Osaka or 
Kobe with the chief scenic ports of Western Japan, such as 
BEPPU, MIYAJTMA, ETC., by steamers with good accom- 
modation. 

THE S. S. " KURENAI MARU " has ten cabins on the pro- 
menade deck with baths for exclusive use of every class, and is 
a new liner (1400 tons) for the service between Osaka or Kobe and 
Beppu, the western terminus of the Inland Sea. 

THE renowned BEPPU HOT SPRINGS AND BATHS 
afford an excellent summer and winter resort; there is every 
comfort at the BEPPU HOTEL, with European accommodation, and 
is very easily reached by the " KTJRENAI MARU ". 



Fleet 1S7 Vessels. 

Tonnage . . . 196,500 Tons. 



28 



Advertisements. 



KYOTO HOTEL, 



KYOTO, J-AJE*^.!^ 



BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED in the MOST CEN- 
TRAL position in Kyoto and STRICTLY 
FIRST-CLASS in all its appointments. 



The only Motel in Kyoto containing' 
bedrooms with connecting: bathrooms 



STEAM IHIIEJ.A.I'IEID THBOUG-HOTJT 

EUECTRIC FANS IN" SUMMER 

Visitors met at the Station on arrival of trains 

Telephone Nob. 117, 1428. K. INOTJYB, Proprietor 

Garage attached to the Hotel. 



&/)€ 



^5Sfe OKAZAKI-PARK fffo 



kyoto 7 j\a.:f.a.:n\ 
K. NIWA, Dir ector. 

A MUNICIPAL INSTITUTION, you ought to visit 
FIRST IN KYOTO before shopping and sight-seeing ; 
to learn the standard price of SILK, EMBROIDERY, 
BRONZE, POTTERY, LACQUER, FANS, 
TOYS, and all other products of KYOTO, the centre of art 
industries of JAPAN. 

Goods can be obtained at same prices as the Samples 

Names of representative and reliable shops and factories given 
Mail orders and correspondence invited .... 



Advertisements. 



29 




yiSITORS ARE pORDIALLY JNYITED 

TO JNSPECT HIS )^OME-f ACTORY 

OF POLD J-ACQJJEF^ ]iVARE. 



Tel. J^aka, ]^os. 

113, 114. L D. 

54-57 jbHINMONZEN, 
J^YOTO, jJapAN. 



S. Hayasl\i, 



DEALER IN 



OBJECTS OF ART, 

flHOIEHW § fflODBI^N. 



JPECIALITIE3. 

Qold Lacquer Wares, Bronzed, Porcelains, Ivory &• Wood Carvinqs, 

Kakemonos, Screens, Chinese Porcelains, Jades 

and All Description of Japanese Curios. 



POODS CAREFULLY PACKED AND FORWARDED TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. 



80 



Advertisements. 



§ B S 




CD 
OS 

3 



CO 



8 

8 

0$ 




0) 

•a 

c 

(0 



to 

-,0 






M 

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°i 



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< 



Advertisements. 



31 








32 Advertisements. 



Yamaimaka & Co. 

AW ATA, KYOTO 

DEALERS IN 

JapsUm&e and Bhimk Tl^oiM of JlU 

Modern and Ancient 



BRANCH HOUSES 

Kitahama Nichome, 254 Fifth Ave., 127 New Bond St., 456 Boylston St., 

OSAKA, I JAPAN. NEW YORK, LONDON, W., BOSTON Mass., 

U. S. A. ENGLAND. U. S. A. 



Goods packed securely and shipped to all parts of the 
world connecting with our BRANCH HOUSES. 

! ! HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY ! ! 

"DAIMARUICHI" I 
shejE groins i 

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Tel. NAKA, No. 1510 L.D. J£ 

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Old Prints 

UKIYOYE, KAKEMONOS 

AND 

WATER COLORS. 



AL^O 



ANTIQUE ART CURIOS 

AND 

DECORATIVE WOOD CARVINQsS 



Z. MATSUKI, 



Shinmonzen, KYOTO 
Tel. 75. 




RURODA 



MANUFACTURER OF 



7f\ 






Artistic! Bronze 



* 
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GOLD, SILVER & COPPER BRONZE. 



No. 19, Teramaehi, Shijo Minami, KYOTO. 

TELEPHONE No. (SHIMO) 1714. 



34 Advertisements, 



APPOINTED MANUFACTURER TO THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD 

ESTABLISHED in 1657. TELEPHONE No. 1 7 1 7 L.D. 



H. NISHIMURA 

FINEST LACQUERS 

(GUARANTEE FOR BOILING WATER) 



LACQUER-IISIIIUR 



OF ARTISTIC DESIGN AND FOR DAILY USE 
FACTORY INSPECTION INVITED 

Teramachi, Ayanokoji, KYOTO, 



^c; Cigarette Box, Jewellery Box, Tea Tray, CardjTray, 

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Y. NAMIIiAWA 

Manufacturer & Dealer in 

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ART COMMISSIONER 

OF 

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Sanjo Slilraltarwa-lbaslii, Kitaura, 

KYOTO, JAPAN 

Telephone No. 1127 



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S. K0MAI 

THE ORIGINATOR OF 

ZOG-AIT 

OB 

DAMASCENE WORK 

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Tel. No. "Kami "546 

Shinmonzerii KYOTO, JAPAN 



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^ 




36 



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FIFTH EDITION 



THINGS JAPANESE 

BEING NOTES ON VARIOUS [SUBJECTS 
CONNECTED WITH JAPAN FOR THE 
USE OF TRAVELLERS AND OTHERS 

By D. f~1. Chamberlain 

" Delightful reading/' — (London) Times. 

" We have no hesitation in recommending it as at once the 
most comprehensive and accurate work on Japan that has yet been 
produced/' — Quarterly Review. 

JOHN MURRAY. London. 

KELLY & WALSH, CO. Yokohama, Shanghai, Hongkong, and Singapore. 



^ • m 



By the Same Author. 

"A HANDBOOK OF COLCQQUIAL JAPANESE" 4th Ed. 
"A PRACTICAL INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF 
JAPANESE WRITING" 2nd Ed. 

LONDON: Crosby Lockwood & Son 
YOKOHAMA: Kelly & Walsh, Ld. 

THE FAR EAST 

IS A CHRONICLE OF POLITICAL, COMMERCIAL AND SOCIAL 
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the Hobbyist ....... — ^ 



38 



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Culture Pearls 
Oriental Pearls 



MIKIMOTO PEARL STORE 

GINZA, - TOKYO 



No. 47, NSchome 

Awajiraachi 

OSAKA 



No. 14, Clifford St. 

New Bond St., W. 

LONDON 





IQmonos l Opera 
ovr Specialities, 



~&7. 



TANSAN 



HAS RECEIVED THE HIGHEST AWARD 

A GOLD MEDAL 

FROM A COMMITTEE OF CRITICAL JUDGES AT THE 

ANGLO-JAPANESE EXHIBITION 

TESTIFYING TO ITS PURITY AND EXCELLENCE 



Beware of imitations. NO TANSAN is genuine unless 
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J. CLIFFORD=WILK!NSON 




T&nScin is a WATER of 
GREAT TONIC PROPERTIES, 
and extremely palatable by it- 
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SPIRITS, STOUT, or MILK. In- 
vigorating in lassitude and debili- 
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East 



THE CUFFORD^WILKIiNSON 
Tansan Mineral Water Co. Ltd. 

KOBE, JAPAN. 



